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DOI: 10.1002/bse.2330
RESEARCH ARTICLE
1
Faculty of Art, International Hoca Ahmet
Yesevi Turkish‐Kazakh University, Turkistan, Abstract
Kazakhstan Slow fashion that improves with an increasing awareness of sustainability has
2
Faculty of Tourism, Necmettin Erbakan
changed consumers' value perception and purchasing behaviours. The aim of this
University, Konya, Turkey
3
Faculty of Art and Design, Selçuk University,
study is to determine slow fashion dimensions that influence consumers' value per-
Konya, Turkey ceptions for slow fashion products and to reveal the effects of the perceived value
Correspondence
on consumers' intentions to purchase and willingness to pay higher prices. The sam-
Tuğba Şener, Assistant Professor, Faculty of ple includes 725 students pursuing higher education in Turkey and Kazakhstan.
Art, International Hoca Ahmet Yesevi Turkish‐
Kazakh University, Bekzat Sattarhanov Street
Exploratory and confirmatory factor analyses were used to specify the factor struc-
No: 29, Turkistan, Kazakhstan. ture of the variables used in the research, and structural equation modelling was used
Email: tugbasener@selcuk.edu.tr
to test the hypotheses.
Data analysis showed that authenticity, locality, and exclusivity aspects in Turkey and
equity, functionality, locality, and exclusivity aspects in Kazakhstan contributed to
perceived customer value. Perceived customer value in both groups positively affects
the intention to purchase and the willingness to pay higher prices. In addition, con-
sumers who intend to purchase slow fashion clothing are willing to pay higher prices
than other products.
The results suggest that consumers in different countries have different orientations
that influence their perceptions of value. From this perspective, this study can pro-
vide designers with insights on the importance of making sustainable designs that
are appropriate to the target market beyond the trends imposed by the global fashion
industry.
K E Y W OR D S
Bus Strat Env. 2019;1–10. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/bse © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment 1
2 ŞENER ET AL.
their own needs (The World Commission on the Environment and Research that examines consumer attitudes towards slow fashion
Development, 1987). It targets a more just and richer world where suggests that slow fashion is still in the developmental stage.
the natural environment and cultural achievements are protected for Pookulangara and Shephard (2013) conducted focus group interviews
future generations (Dyllick & Hockerts, 2002). In this regard, slow and concluded that consumers did not have enough knowledge of
fashion brings environmental and social responsibilities to the fashion slow fashion to make conscious purchasing decisions, and they did
industry and its stakeholders, and the literature mostly includes stud- not find products in slow fashion suitable for fashion.
ies situated in this context. However, this study focuses on a different Harris, Roby, and Dibb (2015) identified the following obstacles to
feature of slow fashion, customer value creation. The purpose of the consumer preference for slow fashion products: consumers' lack of
study is to determine the slow fashion dimensions that affect con- knowledge and understanding about sustainability, their ethical con-
sumers' perceptions of value for slow fashion products and to reveal cerns on different matters, and thoughts such as “I look good in these
the effects of the perceived value on consumers' intentions to pur- clothes,” when their main criterion should be how it is produced.
chase and willingness to pay higher prices (WPPP). The proposed Forsman and Madsen (2017) found that consumers are interested in
model assumes that consumers will be willing to purchase products sustainable fashion, but they also find it “inaccessible” because it is
in slow fashion and pay more for these products if brands create cus- expensive and not accessible.
tomer value in slow fashion. Jung and Jin (2014) developed a scale to determine the basic
dimensions of slow fashion. They proposed that consumers' slow fash-
ion orientations are realised in terms of equity, authenticity, function-
2 | LITERATURE REVIEW ality, localism, and exclusivity. Consumer orientations express how
consumers perceive slow fashion and reveal its dimensions. Jung and
2.1 | Slow fashion Jin (2016) wanted to determine the slow fashion attributes that con-
tributed to perceived customer value. Findings obtained from 221
Slow fashion is an understanding and a production model that sets American consumers reveal that slow fashion is influential in creating
sight on durable goods produced on small scales with classical design customer value and that customer value affects consumers' purchas-
via local resources and traditional production techniques (Fletcher, ing intentions in positive ways.
2010). Slow fashion requires that the entire production process and
the final product be sustainable. Slow fashion products, however, are 2.2 | Perceived customer value
often priced higher than fast fashion ones. Higher prices can be con-
sidered as an obstacle for most consumers to purchase these products Perceived customer value is the consumer's general assessment of a
(Yang, Song, & Tong, 2017). On the other hand, it enables consumers product's benefit. Consumers make this assessment by comparing
to purchase fewer high‐quality products, thereby consuming fewer the benefits that they receive (quality, comfort, etc.) with things
resources (Kanıskan, 2013). (money, time, etc.) that they must give away (Zeithaml, 1988). Per-
Slow fashion has been branching out with transparent production ceived customer value is based on an assessment of the comparison
systems and sustainable products that require fewer mediators between benefit and cost by comparison with competitors (Kotler &
between local producer and consumer and that value local resources Armstrong, 2011).
and distributors. As an alternative to the current hierarchy of designer, The perceived customer value in the consumer's purchasing behav-
manufacturer, and consumer, slow fashion offers cooperation iour is a decisive factor in choosing products. Value is not decided by
between the parties and especially mediates the employment of local businesses but rather is perceived and decided by customers (Bai, Li, &
women (Clark, 2015). Slow fashion process encourages garment com- Niu, 2016). In the rapidly changing and highly competitive global econ-
panies to be sustainable, environmental, and ethical in their designs; to omy, businesses have similar opportunities to access resources such as
use the methods that require quality, artisanship, and experienced technology, knowledge, and talent. Businesses that offer similar goods
labour in production; and to educate consumers to make conscious and services in such environments must do more than ever to distin-
decisions about clothing choices (Pookulangara & Shephard, 2013). guish themselves from their competitors. Customer value, at this
Stål and Jansson (2017) ascertained that in the Swedish fashion indus- point, is an important resource for differentiation. Businesses that
try, enterprises wanted to influence consumer behaviour with a vari- offer value beyond customers' expectations will have a competitive
ety of applications, including the whole consumption cycle, such as advantage (McFarlane, 2013). In this respect, developing the value‐
using sustainable materials in production, clothing renting and sharing, providing factors for the customer in a way that will provide customer
washing advice, free renovation, and returning clothes. loyalty is valuable.
Slow fashion provides mutual benefits among workers, designers, Originally, the concept of perceived customer value included price
retailers, and consumers in the process of designing, producing, and and quality dimensions and then expanded with studies that pre-
using clothes (Jagel, Keeling, Reppel, & Gruber, 2012) because it sented social and emotional aspects of the value (Simova, 2009). The
accepts the consumer as a production partner. This partnership shows Perceived Customer Value Scale (PERVAL) developed by Sweeney
that the end user is a remarkable stakeholder in the slow fashion and Soutar (2001) revealed that the perceived customer value includes
movement (Cataldi, Maureen, & Crystal, 2010). four components: quality, price, emotional, and social.
ŞENER ET AL. 3
Quality value: benefit from the expected performance of the unique and innovative products for high fashion designers (Cimatti,
product. Campana, & Carluccio, 2017). An American brand, Mata Traders, is
Price value: monetary benefit from product use by reducing short‐ directly engaged in production services from artisans in India and
and long‐term costs. Nepal. Its designs using traditional techniques and tools include
Emotional value: the benefit of the emotional situation or feelings hand‐printed motifs and embroideries (www.matatraders.com). Con-
that the product provides. sumers who expect their clothing to be unique perceive slow fashion
Social value: benefit derived from the power of the product to products as more valuable.
improve the social sense of self/social life of the consumer. Functionality is a concept of maximising the benefit of clothing
In this study, the perceived customer value is evaluated within (Jung & Jin, 2014). Consumers' clothing includes different combina-
these four dimensions. tions and long‐wearing orientations, preferring simple and classical
designs. Kazakhstan's slow fashion brand, Adili, is a significant repre-
sentative of the slow fashion outfit with trans‐season/seasonal cloth-
3 | H Y P O T HE S I S D E V E L O P M E N T ing that is not been outdated after a season and is designed to be kept
(Wood, 2009). Slow fashion, as opposed to the values represented by
The model proposed in this study (Figure 1) assumes that each of the fast fashion, overlooks the trends and aims to produce timeless pieces
five basic dimensions of slow fashion, as determined by Jung and Jin
that offer a classic look. Classic clothes that can be combined with dif-
(2014), positively affects perceived customer value and that this situ-
ferent pieces also have a long life (Aakko, 2014). Because consumers
ation increases consumers' willingness to purchase slow fashion prod- realise that slow fashion products can be used in many combinations
ucts and pay more prices for these products. with their long life and classic designs, they perceive these products
as economically valuable despite their high prices.
3.1 | The impact of slow fashion features on Localism is related to consumers' orientation to prefer products
perceived customer value produced at local facilities using local resources (Jung & Jin, 2014).
Slow fashion brands focus on using local materials and resources
Equity, which is one of the characteristics of slow fashion, refers to as much as possible and support the development of local busi-
the orientations of consumers in terms of working conditions for nesses. For example, the Australian fashion brand Rant Clothing uses
workers, fair trade, and fair wages that workers deserve (Jung & Jin, fabrics made from local sources and produces clothes within 30 km
2014). Slow fashion is built on a production system free from work- of its central office (Milburn, 2017). Contrary to the general trends
places with poor working conditions called sweatshops, a system that imposed by the global fast fashion industry, slow fashion is per-
adheres to fair trade principles (Shen, Richards, & Liu, 2013). Con- ceived by consumers as a feature of maintaining local identity and
sumers who are concerned about equity in this regard perceive slow resources.
fashion products as valuable. Exclusivity relates to the privilege of clothes and is related to con-
Authenticity is related to consumers' orientations towards the use sumers' orientations towards rare, limited‐edition clothes (Jung & Jin,
of traditional methods of private production, workmanship, and cloth- 2014). Slow fashion products are produced in a limited number and
ing production (Jung & Jin, 2014). There is a risk that craft and craft‐ high quality, mostly based on manual labour (Henninger, Alevizou,
based production have been weakened due to mass production, as Oates, & Cheng, 2016). In this respect, the limited number of slow
well as the forgotten traditional techniques transmitted throughout fashion garments has a high value perceived by consumers with differ-
generations (Ditty, 2015). Slow fashion seeks to protect unique tradi- entiation and expectation to feel exclusive in society.
tional techniques against this risk. Giovanni Bonotto, an Italian entre- H1 is proposed considering the possible effects of fast fashion on
preneur, produces fabrics using traditional techniques to ensure perceived customer value as presented in the literature.
H1. The equity (a), authenticity (b), functionality (c), samples in studies. The clothing product category is familiar to stu-
localism (d), and exclusivity (e) dimensions of slow fashion dents and is in their field of interest (Bertrandias & Goldsmith, 2006;
have significant effects on the perceived customer value. Im, Bhat, & Lee, 2015). Additionally, students' consumption behav-
iours and perceptions towards fashion products are confirmed to be
similar to those of typical users by industry sources (Kao, 2013).
3.2 | The effect of perceived customer value on
Thirty‐seven questionnaires were not accepted as valid because they
consumers' intention to purchase and WPPP
were not completely filled. The number of questionnaires in Turkey
considered valid for analysis was 435, plus 290 for Kazakhstan, for a
Customer value affects purchase intention; however, high customer
total number of 725.
value directly increases purchase intention (Hakim & Susanti, 2017).
One hundred ninety‐nine of the participants in Kazakhstan were
Customer loyalty is a result of the perceived value; companies that
women, and 91 were men; the participants in Turkey were 271
offer high customer value by improving their products, thus increasing
women and 164 men. Considering the total distribution according to
customer satisfaction, gain customers' loyalty and increase their prof-
gender, the total number of female participants was 470 (64.8%),
itability (Anderson & Mittal, 2016). In the 1980s and 1990s, con-
and number of male participants was 255 (35.2%). Whereas the aver-
sumers tended to buy only fashionable clothing. Today's consumers,
age monthly expense was 150 USD in Turkey, it was 90 USD in
however, are generally more value‐oriented, meaning that they
Kazakhstan.
request clothes that are not only fashionable but also beneficial in
many ways (Castelo & Cabral, 2017). Given the positive impact of slow
fashion on perceived customer value, consumers are likely to purchase
4.2 | Scale
products in slow fashion and settle for higher prices. In this respect,
H2, H3, and H4 are proposed.
The research survey consisted of demographics, consumers' orienta-
H2. Consumers' value perceptions on slow fashion prod- tion towards slow fashion, perceived customer value for slow fashion,
ucts have significant effects on consumers' purchasing intention to purchase, and a WPPP for slow fashion products.
intentions. The Consumer Orientation to Slow Fashion (COSF) scale, which is
used to determine consumers' orientation to slow fashion, is derived
H3. Consumers' value perceptions on slow fashion prod-
from the study by Jung and Jin (2014). The scale includes five dimen-
ucts have significant effects on consumers' willingness to
sions: equity, authenticity, functionality, localism, and exclusivity, and
pay higher prices.
each dimension consists of three items. The perceived customer value
H4. Consumers' intention to purchase slow fashion for slow fashion was measured with the PERVAL scale from Sweeney
products has a significant impact on the willingness to and Soutar (2001). This scale consists of four dimensions and 19 items
pay higher prices for slow fashion products. including quality, price, and emotional and social values of a product.
The three items that measure consumers' purchase intentions (PurcIn)
This study proposes that the intention to purchase is a result of the
are from the study by Sweeney, Soutar, and Johnson (1999), and three
perceived value. Thus, the perceived value is expected to have a medi-
items measuring the WPPP for slow fashion products were taken from
ating role in the effect of slow fashion orientation on purchasing
Castaldo, Perrini, Misani, and Tencati (2008).
intent. From this point, the direct effect of consumer's slow fashion
Participants were asked to grade all items using a 5‐point Likert
orientation on purchasing intent must also be measured, and accord-
scale, from 1 = strongly disagree to 5 = strongly agree. In addition, a
ingly, H5 is proposed.
brief description of fast fashion and slow fashion was included in the
H5. Consumers' orientations towards slow fashion prod- questionnaire to help participants understand the content.
ucts have no significant effects on purchasing intentions.
5 | RESULTS
4 | METHODS
To determine the factor structure of the variables used in the study,
4.1 | Data Collection exploratory and confirmatory factor analyses were used, and struc-
tural equation modelling was used for the hypothesis testing. SPSS
Consumer data were collected through face‐to‐face surveys by 21 was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS 20 was used
researchers in both countries. The study population are consumers for confirmatory factor analysis and structural equation modelling.
who live in Kazakhstan and Turkey. Considering time, cost, and acces- Factor structures and reliability levels of the scales used in the
sibility criteria, 762 students selected by simple random sampling research were examined. For this purpose, participants' responses to
method from two universities offering higher education services in all scales used were subjected to exploratory factor analysis. The
both countries formed the research sample. Many academic studies obtained values indicate that the data are suitable for the application
demonstrate that it is appropriate for students to be selected as of factor analysis (KMO = 0.858 p = .001).
ŞENER ET AL. 5
Basic component analysis and varimax method were used to trans- Examination of Average Variance Extracted (AVE) values for conver-
form the factors. In determining the factors, the eigenvalue factor ≥1 gent validity reveals that they are all above 0.50. These values indicate
was taken into consideration. As a result of the factor analysis, it is that convergent validity is ensured.
seen that 72.825% of total variance is explained. All MSV values in Table 1 are lower than AVE values, and the first
In reaction to the analysis to ascertain if the Common Method Var- step of decomposition validity is provided. The second step is given in
iance exists or not in the scales used, the eigenvalue was 8.668, and Table 2 below in the discriminant validity table (correlation matrix).
the explained variance value was 21.669. These results indicate that Validity and reliability of the scales are ensured as a result of both
there is no common method variance problem. explanatory and confirmatory factor analysis.
Confirmatory factor analysis was performed to test the appropri- When Table 2 is examined, correlation values of variables used in
ateness of the resulting dimensions to the factor structures deter- the study, out of root values of AVE (diagonal section) and some
mined by the hypothesis. The model appropriateness values of the descriptive statistics (mean and standard deviation) are presented.
generated model surfaced at the levels as “acceptable” or “good fit.” The fact that the out of the root AVE values of the variables were
Factor loadings of some expressions, however, are below 0.50. In higher than the correlation coefficients in the table shows that the
addition, variance sharing on some items is statistically above the separation was validated (Hair, Black, Babin, & Anderson, 2010).
desired level. Confirmatory factor analysis was performed again after When a general evaluation of validity and reliability is performed, as
subtracting the expression with low factor load (“Is reasonably priced.” a result of confirmatory factor analysis, convergent and discriminate
PERV27 “Would be economical.” PERV30) and the expressions validity is ensured, and the scales are reliable.
PERV19‐PERV20, PERV21‐PERV22, and PERV25‐PERV26 were com- The model fitting values indicate that all the compliance values are
bined; obtained values are presented in Table 1. statistically desired (Table 3).
Following the modifications, the model consists of 11 factors and According to Tables 1 and 3, the entire model conforms to an
38 variants observed. Analysis of the reliability values (CR‐Composite acceptable level. (CMIN/DF = 1,885 p < .001; RMR = 0.056;
Reliability) of the subdimensions in Table 1 shows that all the values GFI = 0.918; AGFI = 0.902; CFI = 0.962; TLI = 0.958; RMSEA = 0.035;
are above the acceptable value of 0.70. Thus, the scales are reliable. PCLOSE = 1.000).
Variables and items Estimate Standard error T value P value CR AVE α MSV
Note. COSF = Consumer Orientation to Slow Fashion, PERVAL = Perceived Customer Values, PurcIn = Purchase Intention, WPPP = Willingness to Pay a
Price Premium,
CMIN/DF = 1.885 p < .001; RMR = 0.056; GFI = 0.918; AGFI = 0.902; CFI = 0.962; TLI = 0.958; RMSEA = 0.035; PCLOSE = 1.000.
Abbreviations: AVE, Average Variance Extract; CR, Composite Reliability.
6 ŞENER ET AL.
M SD 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Note. The lower triangle of the matrix represents the correlation coefficients between constructs. The diagonal values in bold represent the square root of
the AVE of each construct.
Model fit indices Good compliance Acceptable compliance First analysis results Final results after corrections
2 2
CMIN/DF 0<x <2 2<x <3 2.157 1.885
RMR 0 < RMR < 0.05 0 < RMR < 0.08 0.049 0.056
GFI 0.95 ≤ GFI ≤ 1.00 0.90 ≤ GFI ≤ 0.95 0.906 0.918
AGFI 0.90 ≤ AGFI≤1.00 0.85 ≤ AGFI≤0.90 0.891 0.902
CFI 0.97 ≤ CFI ≤ 1.00 0.95 ≤ CFI ≤ 0.97 0.949 0.962
TLI 0.95 ≤ TLI ≤ 1.00 0.90 ≤ TLI ≤ 0.95 0.946 0.958
RMSEA 0 ≤ RMSEA≤0.05 0.05 ≤ RMSEA≤0.08 0.040 0.035
Note. CMIN/DF = 1.885 p < .001; RMR = 0.056; GFI = 0.918; AGFI = 0.902; CFI = 0.962; TLI = 0.958; RMSEA = 0.035; PCLOSE = 1.000.
Turkey Kazakhstan
Hypothesised relationship Standardised est. Standard error t value p Sup. Standardised est. Standard error t value p Sup.
H1a Equity ̵> PERVAL −.002 .029 −.037 .971 N .314 .032 3.828 *** Y
H1b Authenticity ̵> PERVAL .239 .043 3.531 *** Y .057 .032 .765 .444 N
H1c Functionality ̵> PERVAL .097 .043 1.561 .118 N .303 .039 3.719 *** Y
H1d Localism ̵> PERVAL .316 .048 4.566 *** Y .166 .027 2.279 .023** Y
H1e Exclusivity ̵> PERVAL .271 .049 3.899 *** Y .150 .031 1.981 .048** Y
H2 PERVAL ̵> PurcIn .500 .126 7.195 *** Y .359 .190 4.102 *** Y
H3 PERVAL ̵> WPPP .213 .125 3.241 .001 Y .266 .211 3.730 *** Y
H4 PurcIn ̵> WPPP .360 .060 6.276 *** Y .511 .089 7.775 *** Y
H5 COSF ̵> PurcIn −.028 .379 −.219 .827 Y .106 .373 .658 .510 Y
Note. COSF, Consumer Orientation to Slow Fashion; PERVAL, Perceived Customer Values; PurcIn, Purchase Intention; WPPP, Willingness to Pay a Price
Premium.
***p < .001.
of American consumers, found that only the exclusivity dimension of consumers (Lynn & Harris, 1997). Products often have an impact on
slow fashion had an effect on the perceived value. Consumers feel how people feel and behave in their social environment. Purchasing
the need to be special and unique. For this reason, they demand sustainable products is generally expected to improve an individual's
goods, services, and experiences to distinguish themselves from other image in a social group (Meyer, 2001). Therefore, the expectation of
8 ŞENER ET AL.
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