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Cretan Butterfly Coin Purse


Overlay Crochet Pattern
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An original
LillaBjörnCrochet Design.
(Tatsiana Kupryianchyk)
Copyright 2016.
All rights reserved.
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What you’ll need

Leftovers of yarn in 4
colors.
I used 100% cotton yarn Abbreviations_________________________
“Catona” by Scheepjes. American Standard Abbreviations are used in this pattern.
(50g/1.76 oz., rnd round
125m/137 yds.). st(s) stitch(es)
Yarn weight: Sport slst slip stitch
Texture: 5 ply (12 wpi) ch chain
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
Crochet hook 2.5 mm (C) dc double crochet
or the size that will give FPdc front post double crochet
an acceptable gauge. FPtr front post treble crochet
FPdtr front post double treble crochet
Scissors, needle to weave FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
in ends and put coin FPdtr2tog front post double 2 treble together
purse together. tr2tog treble crochet 2 together
tr3tog treble crochet 3 together
Coin purse frame 9.5cm. SPsc spike single crochet
Depending on your yarn inc increase
and gauge you may need yo yarn over
a smaller or bigger frame. lp(s) loop(s)
_________________ FL front loop(s)
Finished size BL back loop(s)
NJ needle join
The size of finished coin sk skip st(s)
purse depends on the ** *crochet following directions* as many times
yarn and hook you use. as indicated
My coin purse is approx. [] [crochet following directions] as many times
10 cm (4 inches) large. as indicated
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Stitch guide______________________________________
sl st – insert hook in indicated st, yo and FPtr - yo twice, insert hook from front to
pull through both lps on hook. back to front around he post of indicated
stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2
sc – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, pull
lps* 3 times.
through lp, yo and pull through both lps on
hook. FPdtr - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front
to back around the post of indicated stitch,
inc – make two sc in the same st.
yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 4
hdc – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, times.
draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
FPtr2tog – * yo twice, insert hook from
dc – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw front to back to front around the post of
up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice. indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull
tr – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, through 2 lps] twice, * twice, yo, pull
draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three through all 3 lps on hook.
times. FPdtr2tog - *yo 3 times, insert hook from
dtr - yo 3 times, insert hook in indicated front to back around the post of indicated
stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2
lps* 4 times. lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps
on hook.
tr2tog – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated
stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 SPsc – the spike stitch is almost the same
lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps as single crochet but placed one round
on hook. below the working round (unless otherwise
stated in the pattern)and drawn up to the
tr4tog – * yo twice, insert hook in indicated height of a working round. Insert the hook
stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 in indicated st, draw up a loop to the height
lps] twice, * 4 times in same st, yo, pull of the stitches of the working rnd, yo, pull
through all 5 lps on hook. through both lps on hook. Skip the sc of
FPdc - yo, insert hook from front to back to current rnd which is located behind the SPsc
front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, just made.
draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.

Important notes___________________________________
1. Reading the pattern. This pattern uses the overlay crochet technique. The whole
idea of overlay crochet is to create a base, a background with simple stitches (single
crochet stitches are generally used), and add long, complex stitches above. The only
important thing about overlay crochet is that the stitches of the background are
always crocheted in back loops only (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) while the
overlay stitches are added (“anchored”) in the front loops of stitches of underlying
rounds/rows.
This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing where the
new yarn should be attached and to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added
(these sts (front loops) are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using
both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written
instructions after looking at the pictures.
2. Attaching new yarn. This coin purse is crocheted in rounds with color changes on
every round (unless otherwise is stated in the pattern). To avoid unstable knots and
follow the stitch count it is very important to understand how new yarn should be
attached. It is attached by simply pulling a loop of new color in the indicated st and
making a ch, which will count as the first sc of the round (or ch2 which will count as
1st hdc - unless otherwise stated in the pattern).
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3. Crochet in back loops. As mentioned the stitches of the background are always
crocheted in back loops only (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) while the
overlaid long stitches are added (“anchored”) in the front loops of sts of previous
rounds. If you crochet the background sts through the FL you won’t be able to place
long stitches.
4. Finishing rounds (NJ). The rounds are finished with a needle join (NJ) in the
first st of the round (unless otherwise is stated in the pattern). I use a hook instead of
a needle to join, it saves a lot of time. (I also use a hook to weave in all yarn tails).
a. Fasten yarn off leaving a long tail approx. 5 cm (2 inches). Insert hook under
“V” (both loops) of the indicated st from the back to front, yo the yarn tail and
pull it through lps.
b. Insert hook under BL of the last stitch of the last rnd from back to front, yo
the yarn tail and pull it through BL.
If you use this technique, you give the chain stitch at the beginning of the
round its BL and FL. Weave the end in and clip it close to the surface of the piece.
5. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the
reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. But please note that the
number of overlaid stitches is NOT always the same as the number of skipped sts. It
helps to increase the quantity of sts on each round without making increases. You
should be very careful while following the instructions. A stitch count is included at
the end of instructions for every round to help you avoid mistakes.
6. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this coin purse, that’s why it is very
important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too
tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the coin purse’s shape. The right
tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. Your
medalion should stay flat!
7. Inserting hook. It might be tricky to understand how the hook should be inserted
while adding (“anchoring”) overlaid stitches.
a) If the overlaid stitch is anchored in the front loop of the st from some underlying
rnd, then the hook is inserted from bottom to top.
b) If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and
then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other
words, the hook will be inserted behind the post.
8. Crochet on right side. This pattern is written for right-handed people and all
rounds are worked on the right side.

TIPS______________________________________________________
 Please, first finish one medallion, measure it and then choose the frame. Half
circle curved frames work best for this coin purse. Medallion should fit the frame
well and its shape should not be deformed.
 If you choose to crochet this coin purse in different colors than offered in this
pattern, it would be very helpful if you make a color key before you start to work,
and mark your own colors on every round in the pattern. Though the instructions
are written in such a way that you don’t need to refer to a certain color, it is much
easier to read the pattern with colors already marked.
 You can choose any yarn for this pattern. But please be aware that yarn’s weight
will influence the size of finished coin purse. You can change the colors of this
pattern according to your taste. You can achieve great effects and every coin
purse will look different.

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Instructions______________________________________
Color Key: C1 – Green, C2 – Petrol (shade for the body), C3 – Yellow, C4 - Purple

Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1. ease insert hook from top to bottom), sk
Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as no sts on rnd 4* twice,
1st sc) and 8sc in magic ring, don’t join *2sc, inc, 1sc, 1tr3tog (FL) in a st of rnd
this round and don’t fasten off. (8 sts) 2 visible at the bottom of “V”, sk 1 st on
Rnd 2. Continue with yarn C1. Work rnd 4, 1sc, inc* twice; NJ in the 1st sc of
this rnd in BL. the rnd after ch1. (36 sts)
Skip ch1, *2sc in each st around*, NJ in Rnd 6. Change to C2. Attach yarn in 5th
2nd sc. (16 sts) st before 1st tr3tog of rnd 5.
Rnd 3. Change to C2. Attach yarn in 1 Please, be patient. This round is a bit
st of any increase of rnd 2. Work this tricky, so be careful with instructions
rnd in BL. and skipping stitches.
*1sc (1st sc is ch1), inc in next st, 1sc, 1dc Note: feel free to use either FPtr or
(FL) in a st of rnd 1 lying directly below, FPdtr on this and next rounds – just
sk 1 st on rnd 2* twice, choose what works best for your
tension. Stitches should be neither too
*1sc, inc in next st, 1sc, 1FPdtr around dc tight, nor too loose.
of rnd 3 below (for a neat effect insert
the hook not around the whole post, but 3sc (1st sc is ch1), 1FP(d)tr around st of
under 2 bars of dc), sk 1 st on rnd 2* same color below, sk 1 st on rnd 5, 4sc,
twice, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after 1FP(d)tr around next st of same color
ch1. (20 sts) below, sk no sts on rnd 5,
Rnd 4. Change to C3. Attach yarn in 1st 4sc, 1FP(d)tr around same st of rnd 3, sk
FPdtr (BL) of rnd 3. 1 st on rnd 5,
Note: first increase will be ch1 and 1sc in 4sc, 1FP(d)tr around next st of same
same st where yarn was attached. color below, sk no sts on rnd 5, 1sc,
*inc, 1tr2tog (FL) in st of rnd 1 visible at *2sc, 1FP(d)tr around same st of rnd 3,
the bottom of “V” below, sk 1 st, 1sc, inc, sk no sts on rnd 5, 3sc, 1tr3tog (FL) in st
1tr2tog (FL) in same st of rnd 1 where of rnd 3 visible at the bottom of “V”, sk 1
previous tr2tog was made, sk 1 st* twice. st on rnd 5, 3sc, 1FP(d)tr around next st
Repeat *…* 2 more times making 1tr of same color below, sk no sts on rnd 5*
(FL) instead of each tr2tog; NJ in the 1st twice, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after
sc after ch1. (28 sts) ch1. (42 sts)
All next rounds will be made Rnd 7. Change to C3. Attach yarn in
through both loops! FP(d)tr before 1st tr3tog of rnd 6.
Rnd 5. Change to C1. Attach yarn in a *2sc (1st sc is ch1), 2FPtr (make each
loop of NJ of rnd 4. FPtr around each of two legs of tr2tog
of same color below), sk 1 st on rnd 6,
Note: tr’s are made in sts (FL) of rnd 2 3sc, 2FPtr (as previous), sk 1 st on rnd 6,
of same color. 4sc* twice,
*2sc (1st sc is ch1), 1tr (FL) in st of rnd 2 *4sc, 1FPtr2tog (make legs around each
visible at the bottom of next “V”, sk no of two tr’s of same color below lying to
sts on rnd 4, 5sc, 1tr (FL) in same st of the right and to the left from tr3tog), sk
rnd 2 where previous tr was made (for no sts on rnd 6, 6sc* twice; NJ in the 1st
sc of the rnd after ch1. (48 sts)
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Rnd 8. Change to C1. Attach yarn in 1st *2sc (1st sc is ch1), 1FPtr around 1st of 2
FPtr2tog of rnd 7. FPtr of rnd 7 below, 1FPtr2tog (around
Note: make FPtr2tog’s in the same way 2nd and 3rd FPtr’s of rnd 7 below), 1FPtr
as on rnd 7. around 4th FPtr of rnd 7 below, sk 3 sts
on rnd 9, 2sc, inc, 8sc, inc* twice, 16sc,
3sc (1st sc is ch1), inc, 4sc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, 8sc, inc; NJ in 1st sc of the rnd after
6sc, 1FPtr2tog (work leg’s around each ch1. (66 sts)
of 2 tr’s of same color below), sk 1 st on
Rnd11. Change to C2. Attach yarn in 1st
rnd 7, 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog
st of inc before 1st group of FPsts of rnd
(as previous), sk 1 st on rnd 7, 6sc, inc,
10.
4sc; NJ in 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (54
sts) 6sc (1st sc is ch1), 1FP(d)tr2tog (make
legs around each of 2 FP(d)tr of same
Rnd 9. Change to C2. Attach yarn in
color below), sk 1 st on rnd 10, 2sc, inc,
11th st before 1st FPtr2tog.
13sc, inc, 2sc, 1FP(d)tr2tog (as
Note: make legs of FP(d)tr2tog’s previous), sk 1 st on rnd 10, 6sc, inc, 5sc,
around 2 FP(d)tr’s of same color below. inc, 2sc, 1FPdc around FP(d)tr2tog of
1sc (1st sc is ch1), inc, 8sc, *1FP(d)tr same color below, sk 1 st on rnd 10, 13sc,
around FP(d)tr of same color below, sk 1FPdc (as previous), sk 1 st on rnd 10,
no sts on rnd 8, 3sc* twice, 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc; NJ in 1st sc of the rnd
after ch1. (72 sts)
9sc, *1FP(d)tr around FP(d)tr of same
color below, sk no sts on rnd 8, 3sc* Rnd12. Change to C4. Attach yarn in
twice, 6sc, inc, 1sc, 1FP(d)tr2tog, sk 1 st 1st FP(d)tr2tog of rnd 11.
on rnd 8, 13sc, 1FP(d)tr2tog, sk 1 st on 23sc (1st sc is ch1), *1sc, 1SPsc* 8 times,
rnd 8; NJ in 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. 2sc, *1sc, 1SPsc* 6 times, 2sc, *1sc,
(60 sts) 1SPsc* 8 times, 1sc; Cut the thread
Rnd10. Change to C4. Attach yarn in leaving approx. 60cm (23 ½ inches) tail
1st st before 1st FPtr of rnd 9. and NJ in 1st sc after ch1. (72 sts)
Make another medallion with the same
or different color way.
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Joining
Sew symmetrically both butterfly medallions to the coin purse frame using
yarn tails (in my case the edges of frame cover 2nd SPsc on each side). It
may be helpful if you mark 1st and last sts covered by frame before sewing.
Join open parts of the coin purse using yarn of contrasting color than on
the edge of each medallion. Work through BL of both pieces. Attach yarn
in one corner by pulling a loop of yarn and ch1.
*hdc in next st, 2dc in next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st* repeat till the
next corner. Fasten off. Weave in all yarn tails.

Congratulations! Your Cretan Butterfly Coin Purse is now finished!


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Copyright 2014-2016 – LillaBjörnCrochet. All rights reserved.
This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way (as a
whole or in a part). You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to
promote them. And please always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
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