Ecological Leather: the Next Eco-Friendly

Breakthrough
Human beings had been using leather since the dawn of civilization. Historical
references of leather tanning date back to 5000 (B.C.). Throughout time actual leather
tanning process used vegetable tanning. Until the end of the 19th Century, when the
use of chromium (III) to tan leather was discovered. Though carcinogenic, chrome
tanning reduced the time to tan a cowhide into 1 day. Thus, this process became very
popular for the mass production of leather. Throughout the next century until this era.

That is till this 21st century. People are now more socially and environmentally
conscious. Started caring for not just the product but also wanted to make sure they
were not harming any human or animal. Neither harming their natural habitat while
making it. This led to a realization, that is "the old ways were the gold ways". The
ancient vegetable tanning process posed less threat to health and the environment.
Thus, came the concept of Eco-Leather.

But one issue still left unaddressed. The tanning agent used in vegetable tanning is
cedar oil, alum and (the most popular) tannin. These agents are extracts from tree
barks and leaves. Pine, cypress, chestnut, oak, redoul, tanoak, hemlock, quebracho,
mangrove, wattle, cherry plum tree. All have these extracts. This sounds like a lot of
tree-cutting, doesn't it? Hence to save humanity, the animal kingdom and plant
kingdom all at the same time. I introduce to you the most eco-friendliest genuine
leather that there can be: ECOLOGICAL LEATHER.

(Sorry for the drama!! knock me up on LinkedIn if you need Ecological

leather bags and shoes. Or you can mail me at imtiaz@osfelle.com)

But before I go in details about ecological leather. You need to be very clear about 2
things before you decide if you want eco-leather in your leather accessories or not.

1. What eco-leather really is?

2. Why the traditional tanning processes are not very eco-friendly?

Understanding Eco Leather

Eco-Leather is actually a way of thinking, not just a product. Eco-leather is a green

answer to the important need to protect the planet, its resources and inhabitants. It is
the mindset to recycle, reuse, reduce waste or detoxicating the value chain of leather.
For example,

• Recycled leather from old jackets, car seats or sofas. That would otherwise end up in a
landfill. So these are eco-leather.
• Leather that comes from organically raised cattle or sustainable fishing is eco-leather.
Killing animal solely for its skin, the leather from that skin would not be eco-leather.
• Leather is a natural resource in itself. As long as the rate of consumption is equal to the
rate of replenishment, it is an Eco Leather.

And finally, the leather that did not give

out toxic chemicals in the process of its
making and distribution. That is also eco-
leather.

So remember to repair your leather boots

next time it gets damaged. Henceforth,
you will be an eco-leather user.

Impacts of traditional tanning

Tanning is a mandatory procedure to make leather usable. Without tanning, leather

will decay before use. Please note that there is no 100% eco-friendly way to tan leather
in this era. Maybe the closest way could be to tan leather with urine and dog faeces.
Which is actually an ancient way of tanning leather. But in that case, you will have to
isolate a group of people from the rest of the world. There won’t be enough shoes for
everyone. Let alone jackets and luxury handbags. No one wants that. There is no
natural process to stop natural decomposition. Until we find the fountain of life. And I
doubt if we will be using that liquid to tan leather!! The traditional tanning process and
its effects are as follows.

1. Chrome tanning

This is the most widely used tanning process in the world currently. Chrome salt like
chromium sulfate is used to stop hide decay. Chromium (III) is harmless and found in
nature. It is a necessary nutrient for the human body and plants as well. But in the
tanning process, the Chromium (III)
gets oxidized into Chromium (VI). Due
to high level of pH.

Chromium (VI) ion is carcinogenic. It’s

accused to be one of the main reasons
for the carcinogenic impact on
workers of the tanneries. Again
Chromium-tanned leather contains 4-
5% of chromium for the treatment
process. This hexavalent chromium
produces allergic reactions and causes
dry, cracked and scaly skins. It creates
“chrome-hole”, that does not go away.

The bi-product of this tanning process

also contain chromium ion and metal
ions (from metal salts used in the process). If released in the environment untreated, it
contaminates water bodies and vegetation. Eventually affects other life forms
including human beings. Although fully equipped modern-day tanneries have the
environmental ability to control the process and waste streams. To such extent that it
makes those some of the cleanest processing possible in the history of leather tanning.

2. Vegetable tanning

Vegetable tanning is the actual tanning process. This is what people had been
practising from ancient times. With the rise of chrome tanning, the vegetable tanning
lost its significance. Vegetable tanning is a time-consuming process. Significant
efficiency loss in mass manufacturing. Near impossible to meet the rising demand for
leather goods.
In vegetable tanning hides are immersed in liquor made from an infusion of ground
tree bark, twigs, leaves and water. Use of tannin (a class of polyphenol astringent
chemicals) is more common these days. This suspension is then tumbled in big drums
till tanning is complete. Most widely used tanning materials are the barks of oak,
hemlock, mangrove, mallet (a kind of eucalyptus), birch, larch and pine. And extracts
from chestnut wood, mimosa, quebracho (a South American tree), myrobalans (the
fruit of an Indian tree), valonia (the acorn-cup of Levantine oak) and sumach leaves
and twigs. The choice of tanning material determines the colour, density, flexibility
and cuttability. It also determines how long will it take for the tanning.

Many basic operations involved in vegetable

tanning and chrome tanning are similar.
Sequences might be different from chrome
tanning. And there are some finishing
operations in the vegetable tanning process.
But this process does not incur any hazardous
health issues like chrome. The only setback is
for mass production of vegetable leather we
end up chopping down a lot of trees. Either
when using the tree barks directly or due to
bulk production of the chemicals extracts
from the trees.

3. Aldehyde Tanning

Aldehyde tanning produces what we call “chrome-free” leather, also known as "wet
white". Common uses of this leather are in automobile, upholstery, garments, and shoe
upper. It is often used in baby shoes as well. Formaldehyde is one of the chemicals in
the aldehyde group. This is the chemical in this process which stops leather decay.

Formaldehyde is highly toxic to all animals. Ingestion of as little as 30 mL (1 oz.) with

37% formaldehyde can cause death. And it can also cause cancer (like chromium).
Leather for general use should not contain any more than 200ppm of formaldehyde.
That is according to BLC Leather Technology Center, UK. In case you need to know
"ppm" is same as "mg/L". If the item is in direct skin contact this should be 75ppm, and
20ppm for items used by babies (<36 months).

Modern tanners use glutaraldehyde instead of formaldehyde. It is a less toxic aldehyde.

Glutaraldehyde does not contain formaldehyde. Nor does it release formaldehyde,
even after prolonged storage under adverse conditions. Exposure to formaldehyde can
cause allergic contact dermatitis. Nothing of sort occurs on glutaraldehyde exposure.
What is different with Ecological Leather?

Ecological leather tanning has brought about a revolution in the tanning process. This
is the latest tanning process to manufacture high-quality leather. It is very eco-friendly
and has very little impact on health and the environment. Ecological leather is
processed in tanneries with their on ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant). Or which falls
under the CETP (Central Effluent Treatment Plant) of Bangladesh. This treats liquid
bi-product from various unwanted chemicals.
Acids, dyes and colour, all neutralized before
releasing to the environment.

The process uses very eco-friendly chemicals

from sustainable suppliers. Some would
be LanXess, Pulcra
chemicals, Schill+Seilacher, Stahl and Vismon.
There is no use of metal salts. The use of
aldehyde is very low. Modified aldehydes used
to reduce harmful effects. A very low quantity
of formic acid used and neutralized
afterwards. The ecological leather produces is
also free from alkylphenol ethoxylates and
nonylphenol ethoxylates.

The mother component of the ecological

leather tanning process is Syntan. This
synthetic tanning agent is made through the
condensation of formaldehyde with the
sulphonic acids of phenol and naphthalene.
Syntan has the same capability to convert
animal protein hide to a permanent substance
as other tanning materials i.e. it stops decay. If
you don't want your brain to burst open due to
chemical reaction from too much chemistry.
Then move to the last section.
Features

Ecological leather does not cause itching. It is also preferred to use in the products of
babies and diabetic patients. Ecological leather is softer than usual leather due to the
use of polyurethane. Using waterproof fat and lecithin fat can soften it further. And
phosphoric ester to make it even softer. Touching leather goods from Ecological
leather feels very smooth. You will feel comfort, to the max. These are also very easy to
clean and wash as the leather has a very fine surface. Ecological leather gives a unique
non-uniform colouring and beautiful surface texture.

Sustainability

Ecological leather tanning is more sustainable than any other tanning process. The
traditional tanning process causes a huge amount of leather wastes. This new process
has brought about a change in reducing the amount of leather waste. Ecological leather
tanning requires less water than a conventional tanning process. The Ecological tanned
leather is completely non-toxic due to the use of syntans. Also, it is way easier to
remove synthetic particles from water than other ions and salts. Hence 95% of the
water used can be purified or recycled.

Drawbacks

The cost of production exceeds the price of raw hides and skin used in ecological
leather tanning. The chemicals used, like syntans, are more expensive than chrome
slats. The price remains high whether low graded or high graded hide used. Hence
only high graded raw hides are used for ecological tanning. To capture the niche
luxury market. Capturing the mass market is not feasible yet.
The process required close monitoring. So engineers are constantly engaged. The
damp atmosphere and wet conditions produce the wrong output. Hence tanneries
need to be well maintained to produce ecological leather. The time of processing is
shorter than conventional tanning. But the leather needs to be hanged for a longer
period than usual. For these reasons, the price and delivery time of ecological leather
is pretty high.

Conclusion

Demand for Ecological leather is rising globally. It is already very popular in countries
like Japan and Italy. Other developed counties are going to follow through the
adoption. A safe and environment-friendly leather that needs to reach the mass. And
eventually, it will.

The core concept of sustainability is very simple. "Meeting the needs of this generation
without compromising the needs of future generations". Working for the future is so
much easier when present is ensured. Not the same when your present is in crisis.
People giving sustainable effort in a developed country and an underdeveloped
country is not the same. A group of consumers or companies from the developed
country can easily boycott a factory. Because it is damaging the environment of
Bangladesh. But for that factory, the economic implication to make that change is same
as going out of business. This is true for many small and medium factories. And many
SMEs in Bangladesh did go out of business in this way. With it, thousands of workers
went jobless and homeless.

The will to save the environment

is no doubt a noble intent. But we
should not forget that
sustainability is not all about
saving the environment.
Sustainable development
encompasses social and
economic development too. So it
is also your moral obligation that
when you buy, you buy from
those in need. And help them in
the process. The leather industry
of this economically deprived
country (Bangladesh) needs your
support. Please overlook some of our shortcomings and help us grow. Manufacture
your ecological leather or any other type of leather & leather goods, that you are
working on, from Bangladesh