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Felicity Sewing Patterns

Pretty Baby Romper Sewing Tutorial

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This would have to be the quickest and easiest romper you will ever make. A great little
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everyday outfit for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 4 years old. Soft and comfortable for
your little one to wear all day. You can make it with or without the crotch fasteners.
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This style is definitely one to make if you are a beginner --- the pattern is so simple and the
sewing is easy --- nothing tricky. Follow the sewing tutorial closely to learn step by step how to
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make the romper. It is best to print out only the pattern and use the tutorial on your computer
so you can zoom the photos.
Use soft pure cotton fabrics for best results --- cotton homespun, poplin or lawn are all suitable.
You can make a fabric shoulder tie or use ribbon --- one long tie, tied into a bow at the front or 2
ties tied up on the shoulders.
The romper is full and easy fitting, plenty of room for a diaper. Always check the size chart for
your correct size --- chest and height measurements are the best guide. If possible check and
adjust elastic size.
Fabrics and Trims Required

The Fabric lengths are based on a cloth width of 112cm or 45 inches. The lengths below are
enough to cut the shoulder tie as well. If you want to cut the ties in a contrast fabric you will
need about 25cm / 10” x width of fabric.
You will also need 6mm / 1/4” wide elastic for the legs and a small amount of 12mm / 1/2” wide
readymade bias binding for the armhole edges. Large sew-on press snap fasteners x 3.

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Make sure that the print you are using is not a one-way- up print --- you will need extra fabric in
this case. The little horse print I used is a one way print.

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If you want to use a ribbon for the tie you will need a maximum of 1.60mt or 1.3/4yds of soft

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25mm / 1” wide ribbon.
It is easier if you have a serger or overlock machine to finish the seams but if not use the zigzag
stitch on your plain sewing machine.

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Size 00 = 3mths 0 = 6mths 1 = 12mths 2 = 2yrs 3 = 3yrs 4 = 4yrs
Fabric 60cm / 65cm / 70cm / 75cm/ 80cm / 85cm /
2/3yd 3/4yd 3/4yd 7/8yd 7/8yd 1yd

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Elastic x2 24cm / 25cm / 27cm / 28cm / 30cm/ 31cm/
9” 9.1/2” 10.1/4” G 10.3/4” 11.5” 12”

What you need to get started


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All the instructions for cutting out the pattern are on each pattern piece and the seam
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allowances are included. You should not need to adjust the pattern as it is fairly generous in fit
and can be adjusted a little with the shoulder ties.
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Check that you have all the pattern pieces and trims: Note: the fronts and backs are the same.

Fronts x 1 pair main fabric Elastic x 6mm cut to size x 2


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Backs x 1 pair main fabric Bias binding x 12mm / 1/2”


Shoulder tie x 1 cut on fold OR x 2 cut Large press snap fasteners x 3
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with seam join. Matching thread


Ribbon x 1.60mt / 1.3/4yds --- optional.
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Seam allowances ---


Main = 1cm / 3/8”
Edges = 6mm / 1/4”
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Cut out with fabric ties option.
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Cut out with ribbon ties and crotch fasteners options.


Sew the body together
1/ Sew the center back and front seams
together, overlock and press. Sew the side
seams together, overlock and press.

The crotch seam is still open.

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2/ Overlock the hem edges on the top/neck
and legs.
Press the leg hem casing allowance under
3cm / 1.1/4”.
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3/ if you are not using snap fasteners on
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the crotch, sew the seam together from leg


edge to leg edge.
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If you are using fasteners leave the crotch


seam open for now and continue on with
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the armholes.
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4/ Fold the pressed hem/casing allowance


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under and stitch down along the overlocked


edge. Then sew another row 12mm / 1/2”
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in to form a channel for the elastic --- leave


a small gap near the crotch seam to insert
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the elastic.
Thread the Elastic --- cut to the correct
length for your size and use a safety pin to
thread through the casing, secure the ends
with some firm stitches and close the gaps.

I have made the elastic loose enough not to


cling or ride up the legs: you may want to
adjust the elastic size.
Sew the armholes

5/ Cut two lengths of bias binding to fit


around the armhole edges. Pin this to the
outside of the armhole edges and sew
around with a 6mm / 1/4” seam or use the
fold in the binding as the seam width.

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Press under to the inside, pin and stitch the

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binding edge down to finish.
Stretch the binding a little to make it go
smoothly around the curve of the armhole.
Press.
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Both armhole edges are now neatly finished


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with binding.
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Make the top edge neck
casing and ties

6/ Press the edge under 1cm / 3/8” and


again 2.5cm / 1” --- the total allowance is
3.5cm / 1.3/8” so don’t use more than this
or your armholes could end up too shallow.

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Sew along the folded edge and be sure to
double tack at each end to secure the

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stitching. Do this on back and front.

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Now the romper is finished except for the
ties.

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If you are using ribbon, thread this through
now and you are finished.

7/ To make the fabric tie decide if you are


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using one long tie to tie up in a bow at the
front or two ties to tie up on each shoulder.
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Fold the tie in half along the length with the


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right side inside and sew around the edge


with a 6mm / 1/4” seam. Leave a small gap
at mid point to turn the tie right side out.
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Turn out by pushing through the gap,


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smooth out the seam edge and press flat.


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Now thread the ties through the neck casing
and it’s finished. Use a large safety pin to
thread the ties.

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Make the open crotch with

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snap fasteners
8/ Back at step 2 you have overlocked the
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leg hem edges and pressed the hem
allowance under.
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With the crotch seam open stitch the


hem/casing down along the overlocked
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edge and then sew another row 12mm /


1/2’ in from this to form the casing.
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Thread the elastic through the casings and


pin or stitch to secure each end.
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Pin a piece of readymade bias binding to
each side of the crotch opening on the right
side --- fold each end under for a neat
finish. Stitch this on using the crease in the
binding as the seam width.

Pres the binding to the underside and sew


down along the edge and at the ends.

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Now the crotch opening is finished and you
can position the snap fasteners --- three
should be enough --- place one at the
center and one on each end of the elastic
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casing.
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I always prefer to use the old fashioned
stitch on fasteners rather than the type that
you have to punch into the fabric: these can
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eventually cut through the fabric.


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Hand sew the snaps in place and remember


they have to face --- so one side will be
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stitched to the outside and one to the


underside of the crotch.
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The back and front are the same but it is


best to wear the romper so the front folds
over the back.

Finished!
Cutting Out ---- General Instructions

Placing patterns on fabric

It is usually best to mark out or pin patterns to the ‘wrong’ or inside face of fabric whether using
a double or single layer. Remember to reverse patterns marked “Cut 1 RSU” [right-side-up
patterns] when marking out on the wrong side of fabric.
Grain Lines are always placed along the length of the fabric parallel to the selvedge. To cut on

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bias grain align pattern grain line to selvedge of fabric thus placing the pattern piece on a bias

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angle.
To cut on fold place centre “fold” edge of pattern along fold of fabric OR on a single layer of

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fabric mark out pattern by mirroring the pattern piece at the centre “fold” line.
To cut a “pair” place pattern on double layer of fabric and cut 1 OR on a single fabric layer cut

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pattern once face-up and once reverse-side-up.

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Cutting out

Always cut accurately along edge of pattern to avoid altering the finished size of the garment.
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Clip notches for darts, seam matching and balance points, seam and hem allowances and all
other notations e.g. zippers, gathering, easing etc. Avoid clipping notches too close to seam
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stitching lines.
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To mark dart points and pocket position points --- punch out drill hole mark on pattern with a
pattern hole punch or use a pin to pierce through pattern and fabric to mark the points on the
fabric with chalk or pencil.
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Nap --- fabrics with nap such as velvets and corduroys must always have all pattern pieces cut
facing in the same vertical direction, it may be necessary to allow more fabric length for nap
fabrics. You can choose which way to cut the nap by holding the fabric up and looking in a mirror
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---- the “top” of the nap looks shinny and the “under” nap is matt and deeper in colour. Place
patterns so that the nap is facing upwards for a richer, deeper colour on the finished garment.
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Seam Allowance
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Seam and Hem allowances are included on all patterns.


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Main seams = 12mm / ½ inch or 10mm / 3/8 inch ---- check the notches.
Edge seams e.g. waist edge, centre front, neckline, armholes, collar, flaps etc. = 6mm / ¼ inch
Internal seams e.g. facing to lining = 10mm / 3/8 inch
Hem turning = 40mm / 1.1/2 inches OR as marked on pattern.
Darts = stitch past dart drill hole 15mm / 5/8 inch to finish in fine point.
TEST SQUARE
10 centimeters
3.15/16 inches

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Just a fraction under 4”

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Printing Instructions PA
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The Layout Plan page is a map of the pattern and shows how the pages of the pattern fit together. Scroll
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through the pattern file and check that all pages have downloaded read the instruction pages and make
a note of the page numbers of the pattern pages.
To open and use a PDF pattern you will need to have Adobe Reader or Adobe Acrobat installed on your
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computer. You can get a free download of Adobe Reader --- get.adobe.com/reader/ --- if you are
reading this then you already have it.
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It is best to print out only the pages for the pattern and use the sewing tutorial by viewing it on your
computer screen.
To print you need an ordinary desk top printer. The pattern prints on A4 [210x297mm] or
8.1/4”x11.5/8” plain paper. If you are in the USA you can use Letter size paper but the page border will
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be narrower on the length or you can use Legal size paper.


The PDF is set up to print each of the pattern pages with a 12mm or 1/2"border. Do not change the
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scale or orientation of the pages.


To check that your printer settings are correct: In the print box select "Properties" click Text, Plain Paper
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and Size A4 --- click OK. Make sure ‘Borderless’ is NOT selected.
In ‘Print Range’ fill in the page numbers of the pattern pages only and tick the ‘Preview’ box.
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For "Page Scaling" tick NONE [this is very important]. Tick the box "Auto Rotate and Centre" if you have
this option. DO NOT use Scale, Crop or Fit to Page options. Always choose ‘No Scaling’ or ‘Actual Size’.
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Page orientation --- it’s best to select the ‘Auto portrait/landscape’ --- the pattern files may contain
pages of both orientations so this should ensure that all print out correctly. If you don’t find this setting
and you want to print all the pages in the file, it is advisable to print the pages of the tutorial separately
from the pattern pages. The printer will automatically set the orientation by the first page in the print
range.
Before printing all the pages print out the Test Square page [this page]. The test square when printed in
the correct scale should measure exactly 10cm or a fraction less than 4 inches on all sides. If this is not
correct go back and check your printer settings.
When you have printed the pattern see the instructions for assembling and cutting out the pattern on
the Layout Plan page.
Size Chart in Centimeters and Inches

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Centimeters

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Sizes 000 00 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10

Age 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24 2-3 4yrs 5yrs 6yrs 7yrs 8yrs 10yrs
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Approx. mths mths mths mths mths yrs
Height 62 68 76 84 92 100 108 115 120 125 130 140
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Chest 44 47 50 53 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 72
Waist 44 47 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 67
Hip 43 46 49 53 56 59 62 64 66 68 70 74
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Arm 27 30 33 37 42 46 49 53 56 59 61 66
Length
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Back 16 17 19 21 23 25 26 27 28 29 30 32
Length
Waist 31 36 41 46 52 58 64 69 73 77 80 88
height
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Crotch 20 24 28 32 36 40 45 49 52 55 57 63
height
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Inches
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Sizes 000 00 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10
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Age 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24 2-3 4yrs 5yrs 6yrs 7yrs 8yrs 10yrs
mths mths mths mths mths yrs
Approx
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Height 24.1/2 26.3/4 30 33 36 39 42 45 47 49 51 55


Chest 17.1/4 18.1/2 19.3/4 21 22 22.3/4 23.1/2 24.1/4 25 26 26.3/4 28.1/2
Waist ^ 18.1/2 19.3/4 20.3/4 21.1/2 22.1/4 22.3/4 23.1/2 24.1/4 25 26 27.1/2
Hip 17 18 19.1/4 21 22 22.3/4 23.1/2 24.1/4 25 26 26.3/4 28.1/2
Arm 10.1/2 11.3/4 13 14.1/2 16.1/2 18 19.1/4 20.3/4 22 23.1/4 24 26
Length
Back 6.1/4 6.3/4 7.1/2 8.1/4 9 9.3/4 10.1/4 10.5/8 11 11.3/8 11.3/4 12.5/8
Length
Waist 12.1/4 14.1/4 16 18 20.1/2 22.3/4 25.1/4 27 28.3/4 30.1/4 31.1/2 34.1/2
height
Crotch 8 9.1/2 11 12.1/2 14 15.3/4 17.3/4 19.1/4 20.1/2 21.1/2 22.1/2 24.3/4
height
Felicity Sewing Patterns
Layout Plan for Pattern Pages --- Pretty Baby Romper

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4 5 6

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Colour Code

1 2 3

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Felicity Sewing Patterns
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Guide to Assemble the Pattern Pages


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Use the Layout Plan as a guide to lay out all the pages in correct order --- the pages are numbered
according to the printing sequence.
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Each page meets at the border line so it is best to trim the borders off one or two sides of the overlapping
pages. You can see which borders to trim by looking at where they will join, it is best to trim all on the
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same side, place the trimmed edge over the uncut border of the adjoining page. When joining the pages
always match the pattern lines rather than the edges or borders of the pages.
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It is best to glue the pattern pages together --- use paper paste or craft glue. Alternately use clear tape ---
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use shorter strips of tape rather than long lengths. Make sure to place tape at the edges of the pattern
pieces and reinforce with extra tape on the back.
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To cut out the pattern use the colour code listed on the pattern to determine each separate size. You can
cut out the size you require by following the coloured outline or you can keep the pattern nest in tact by
using a tracing wheel to trace a single size onto a sheet of paper. If patterns are not in colour follow the
size numbers along the lines.
The patterns already have the seam and hem allowances included --- these are indicated on the pattern by
short notch lines and/or noted in the pattern labeling.
The cutting–out instructions are noted on each pattern piece.
Grain lines are marked on all pattern pieces.
See the “Cutting Out” --- General Instructions” for more information on cutting out fabric.
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Colour Code

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00 = yellow

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0 = red

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1 = black
2 = green

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3 = aqua

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4 = blue

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Felicity Sewing Patterns
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Copyright protected: All parts of this


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Pretty Baby Romper


document are copyright and remain
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Sizes: 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4. the property of Felicity Sewing Patterns.


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To fit 3 months to 4 years. No part of this document cab be copied,


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website: www.felicitysewingpatterns.com
reproduced or re-sold as sewing pattern
email: felicitypatterns@bigpond.com products. For personal use only.
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