Ray Clontz of Charlotte, NC invented this drive system for a power hammer

which uses the emergency spare tire and rim from a small car. These drawings
show hub and rear axle for a trailer. It uses a spring and arms linkage similar to a
Little Giant. Call it the Ray Clontz Tire Hammer. Thank you, Ray, for your
inventive genius and generosity.

The original drawings have a 50 lb. hammer weight with a 6" (or larger) x 36"
solid anvil, either round or square, mounted on a 2' x 2' x 1/2" plate base. It
weighs 700 pounds and is about 6 1/2' tall. It uses lead in the 4" square
hammerhead and also for the counterbalance weight. The rear column is 1/4"
wall, 5" square tubing, and 6’ tall. The hammerhead guides are ultra high
molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene, a very, tough, durable and low friction
plastic.

It is driven by a 1 hp, 1750-rpm, single phase, 60 cycle, 120/240-volt, frame 56,

TEFC electric motor. A flat pulley, 3.5" diameter, is mounted on the motor. The
motor is pivoted by the treadle action and rubs against the tire. This clutch
provides outstanding control and high efficiency. The hammer runs about 250
rpm and uses flat dies made from 4140 tool steel.

Changes have been added for a heavier anvil, solid hammer head and new
counterweight/crankplate. Do not use the heavier solid hammer head with the
original lighter anvil. The hammer will not be as efficient.

A hammer is a precision mechanism, pins and axle must be parallel with each
other, guides and hammer head must be aligned to the anvil; lathe and milling
machine work are required to build a properly functioning hammer. Building a
power hammer is a very difficult and lengthy project. It requires over 70 hours of
work to build in a workshop using many jigs and fixtures. Without jigs or with
building the jigs, an individual will require well over 100 hours. The cost of a
hammer in workshops has been between $1200 and $800 depending on how
much low cost or free material that was found. On a scale of 1 to 10, building a
treadle hammer would be 3 and this hammer is 10.

These plans are copyrighted. When you buy the plans, you buy the right to use
the plans for building a hammer for your own use. You may make a copy of the
plans for your own use. You are not allowed to make other copies for friends,
give, loan, allow others to make a copy or sell copies to others or allow others to
use your copy. They may buy their own copy by contacting me at address below.
If you hold workshops, you must buy a set of plans for each participant. If you
sell the hammer, the plans should go with the hammer.

There is no way to build a good hammer without using a solid anvil, do not
attempt any other method, do not call asking about using tubing filled with
something for an anvil. It cannot be done, you must have one large mass. You
would not use a tube for an anvil with a hand hammer; it makes no sense to use
one for a 50 lb. hammer. You can weld several pieces of solid stock together.
If you change a part or dimension, then you must carefully examine every other
part that interfaces with the changed part to be sure that a problem has not been
created by the change. It may be difficult to find or visualize the effect until you
can’t get the parts to fit or hammer to operate properly. Be very careful or sure of
what you change.

As of November,2020 over 500 hammers have been built in workshops using this
design without problems. There are large heavy pieces of material to handle,
lead to melt and pour, machining, much welding, wiring electrical parts; all of
which may be dangerous if not done in a safe and proper manner.
Blacksmithing, using a power hammer and the operations to build a hammer
have some inherently dangerous operations. If you cannot do the work in a safe
manner, get a knowledgeable friend, hire someone or get the training required.

You must agree to accept all responsibility for your actions in building and using
this hammer. If you and your heirs do not agree to hold me and any others
involved in the plans and workshops harmless and blameless, then return the
plans to me in new condition for a refund of all except mailing costs. By using
the plans, you are stating that you agree to this.

Please e-mail to clay@tirehammer.com, call me at 256-558-3658, or write to me, 73

Penniston Pvt. Drive, Somerville, AL 35670 on any questions or corrections.

The best way to build hammers is in a workshop where you can share the
various skills of other blacksmiths. We have had 29 successful workshops to
build 500 hammers. We need a 300 square foot (minimum) shop with 4 welders.
Workshops work best with 15 to 20 hammers. A coordinator signs up members,
buys stock and parts, schedules pre-workshop sessions. The coordinator, shop
owner and I get a hammer free and others pay all the costs. Hammer costs have
averaged $1600 and depends on free stock you can get and prices. Contact me.

Mounting
DANGER!! Do not operate hammer unless it is bolted to concrete floor or wide
base. Use four ½” epoxy anchors, lead shields or expanding anchors have not
worked. A 4” concrete floor may be cracked or survive if it is good reinforced
concrete. A rubber mat, conveyor belting, stall mat or 1” thick plywood under
the hammer base may help prolong the life of the floor.

Use a concrete saw to cut a groove around the base to prevent cracks from
extending across your floor. Best mounting would be to cut and break out a 4’ x
4’ hole in the floor and pour a new reinforced concrete base at least 2 feet deep.

On a dirt floor, bolt the hammer to a 3 ½’ square wooden base with four ½” bolts,
washers and lock nuts. Ten 4” x 4” pressure treated timbers, at least 3 1/2 feet
long may be bolted together with 1/2” all thread rod and dug into the dirt floor.
The dirt should be solid and level under the wood base. At some speeds the
hammer will develop front to back or side-to-side movements, enough to turn
hammer over to side or front if not bolted down securely enough. Secure the
hammer to the floor. Filling the column with sand may reduce noise.
Adjustments
You can run hammer from 20 to 60 psi. tire pressure. Try different pressures to
see which you like best. You may or may not get better control at lower pressures
but you will have more treadle travel and turnbuckle will have to be readjusted.
Brake pad will need readjusting also. When you increase air pressure, you must
adjust the brake pad.
Adjust Brake Pad so it is about 1/4” - 3/8” away from the tire when motor
pulley is touching the tire. Brake should be clear of the tire when pulley rubs the
tire. Dragging brake pad could cause motor to burn out.
Adjust turnbuckle as long as possible and get full hammer speed. Be sure the
treadle does not touch the floor.

Tighten adjusting screws until the spring, PN 61, is compressed 1/2”.

Uncompressed length is 6”. Spring is tight enough when hammer stops
‘stuttering’ or uneven hitting when running. If spring is compressed too much,
the hammer usually will not hit the bottom die. Tighten Lock Nuts on Adjusting
Screw. You may place a 1/2” or 1” plate under the bottom die to have the dies hit
at lower RPM with better control, if desired. Longer screws will be required.

Check all nuts, screws and bolts to see they are tight and welds are not cracked.
If screws or nuts loosen frequently, remove and apply blue Loctite.

Lubrication
Oil Arm and Link Oilite bushings every week with a drop of 30 weight oil, oil
moving joint parts of motor mount, treadle and turnbuckle once a month.
Remove spring, PN 61, and grease the pillow block bearing at least once a year.
The UHMW plastic must be kept damp with 30 wt. motor oil. or spray/oil
containing Teflon or PTFE (polytetrafluoro-ethylene). Do not use dry, wax or
grease varieties. Several brand names are DuPont, Slick50, 3inOne, Gunk, ZEP,
CRC and Liquid Wrench. PTFE sprays or oils must be shaken before use.
Silicone, molybdenum disulphide or graphite are not recommended. Grease will
prevent the hammer from working.

Notes:
Drawings are not to scale. Remove all burrs and sharp edges.
Drawing dimensions are for 1-1/2" thick dies, 36" anvil: adjust for other
thicknesses.
Anvil: 6" round is minimum size. Larger is better. If you use larger anvil, mark
and cut Spacer, PN 4 to fit. Base, PN 1, is minimum thickness, ¾" or 1" is better.
Square tubing, 5" x ¼" wall. Thicker wall may be used except for Guide Tube, PN
5.
Shims, PN 14 and 14A: More may be required because of square tubing
tolerances.
Pillow Block, PN 33, may be obtained from Northern, Amazon, Surplus Center
or MSC. Use only setscrew style and put blue Loctite on the screws.
Hammer lead, PN 29, may be weighed then put in hammer tube and melted with
rosebud torch tip. Do not breathe fumes. You can put in several pounds of steel
and pour lead over it.
If you cannot get the hammer to hit the anvil and you hear a "clunking" sound,
your lead is loose in the hammer head. Take a 15" length of " square, bend it
about 15° in center then hammer down the top of the lead all around the inside
of the head.

Flat Die, PN 49, may be made from other material such as 4130, 4340 or S-7. Use
Bill Bryson's book "Heat Treatment, Selection and Application of Tool Steels" as
reference for selection and heat treatment
With flat dies you can use many spring tools and handled tools on them. You can
make spring fuller drawing dies. Grind 1/8" or larger radius on dies to prevent
marks on flat stock. For tools to be used with flat dies, go to ClaySpencer Tire
Hammer Users Group on Facebook.

Turnbuckle, PN 58, Clevis "-13, 6" or 9" takeup

Pulley, PN 62, The pulley may be machined from aluminum or steel.
Spring Hose, PN 64, may be any rubber hose such as radiator hose or water hose
Flat Washers, PN 90 may be needed for rim to fit flat against hub (rim turned
backwards). Three washers may be needed on each lug bolt.
Motor Spring, PN 97: Can be most any trampoline spring, Alternates: C-261,
Century Spring Corp., Lowe's, Ace or Home Depot. 1.06" x 5.50" x 0.12"
Spring Washers, PN 45, may be cut from " plate.
Clevis Pins, PN 34, may be made by welding a washer for a head on cold rolled
or centerless ground steel rod or 4140 stock as PN 65, Hammer Pin.
Sources:
Part numbers (PN) beginning:
MSC is MSC Industrial Supply Co., mscdirect.com, 800-645-7270. Other sources
are Surplus Center, www.surpluscenter.com, 800-488-3407 or McMaster-Carr,
www.mcmaster.com. Grainger or Amazon has many parts now.

Spring, PN 61 is from MSDivisions, www.msdspring.com, their part number

C2906-6000-1288000, call 800-633-7734. 6" long, 1288 lb/inch compression
Rims and tires, Try your local junkyard or eBay.
Axles, hubs and bearings from Northern, Dexter, Agri-Supply or other trailer
supply may be used-nothing smaller 1750 lbs. capacity. See drawing.
Electrical parts: Local electric supply houses, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

Several smiths are making hammers for sale now and will sell you parts, springs,
or sub-assemblies.
Curtis Herrmann, curtis@twistedpicket.com. Agra, OK, Dave Custer,
blacksmithdave@gmail.com, Columbia, KY both make heavier hammers.
Raymond Head, E.M.forge@gmail.com , Wetumpka, AL makes the original 50 lb
hammer.
At 89 years old, I am retiring from leading workshops. Contact Allan Kress,
tested4wear@yahoo.com, 256-347-5732 or me to schedule.

Revised November 4, 2020, Copyright November 4, 2020

 Tire Hammer Part List 10/20/08
Part Name Material Size" Width" Length" Quantity
1 Base HR plate 1/2" 24 24" 1
2 Anvil any steel 6" 6 36" 1 round orsquare
3 Column Sq Tube 1/4" wall 5" square 72" 1
4 Spacer Sq Tube 1/4" wall 5" square 10" 1
5 Guide Tube Sq Tube 1/4" wall 5" square 8-1/2" 1
6 Guide Attach Sq Tube 1/4" wall 5" square est. 9-1/2" 1 Cut to fit
8 Braces, anvil HR, FB 1/4" 2 5-5/8" 4
9 Hammer Tube Sq Tube 1/4" wall 4" square 15" 1
10 Bottom HR, FB 1-1/4" 3-1/2" 3-1/2" 1
11 Shaft Collars Steel, black 3/4" 4 MSC86532835
12 Guide Bearing UHMW polyeth 3/16" 3-3/4" 8-1/2" 4 MSC52431996
12A Guide Bearing,side Make from two of the PN 12 2
13 Guide stops HR, FB 1/4" 1/2" 3 4
14 Shim sheet steel 26 gage 3-3/4" 8=1/2" 12 More may be req'd
14A Shim, side Make from PN 14 6 More may be req'd
15 Pins Round HR/CR 1/4" 8 4
16 Tire and Rim Emergency T115/70D14 or T125/70D15 1 See Note 1&2.
17 Hub and Bearings On rear axle from front drive minivan must fit Rim 1 See Note 1.
18 Axle Rear Axle from front drive van to fit hub/bearings 1 See Note 1.
19 Mounting Plate HR, Plate 1/2" 5" 6" 1
20 Bearing Stop HR Angle 1/8" x 1/2" x 1/2" 1" 4
21 Crank Plate HR, Plate 1/4" Fit to rim 1 See Note 2.
22 Spokes, long HR, Square 1/2" 6" 2
23 Spokes, short HR, square 1/2" 3-1/4" 2
24 Crank Pin Steel bolt 1"-8 Grade 5 8" 1 DO NOT USE GRADE 8
25 Crank Bolster Black Pipe 1" Sch 80 1-3/4" 1
26 Spacer, lock nut Black Pipe 1" Sch 40 3/4" 2
27 Spring Guard Steel sheet 16 gage 9" 14" 1
28 Counterweight Lead 7-3/4lb  pour in mold
29 Lead, hammer Lead 38 lb.
30 not used
31 Cross Head Side HR, FB 1/4" 3 6" 2
32 Cross Head bottomHR, FB 1/4" 3 6" 1
33 Pillow Block Cast Iron for 1" shaft Setscrew type 1 Amazon
34 Clevis Pins Steel 3/4" 2-1/4" grip 4 Amazon/MSC
35 Rod End Tube Black Pipe 1" Sch 80 1-9/16" 6
36 Bushing Oilite 3/4" id 1" od 1-1/2" 6 MSC06454094
37 Stem HR, FB 1/2" 1-1/2" 3" 2
38 Link HR, FB 1/2" 1 4-5/8" 2
39 Cotter Pin Steel 1/8" 1-1/4" 6
40 Arm Sides HR, FB 1/4" 2 11-1/2" 4
41 Arm spacers HR, FB 1/2" 1-1/2" 2" 2
42 Adjusting Nut Steel, black 7/8"-9 4 And locknut
43 Adjusting Screw Steel 7/8"-9 threaded rod 6" 2
44 Pin Stop Round HR/CR 1/4" 1/4" 3/4" 4
45 Spring Washer steel, black 11/64" 1-3/8" id 3" od 2 MSC67490045
46 Spring End HR, round 1" 1/4" 2
Part Name Material Size" Width" Length" Quantity
47 Spring Spacer Black Pipe 1-1/4" Sch 40 1" 2
48 Die Plate, top HR, FB 1/2" 3-7/8" 3-7/8" 1 radius corner
49 Die, Flat Steel 4140 1-1/2" 2 3-1/2" 2
50 Spring Pipe Black Pipe 1" Sch 40 1-1/2" 2
51 Motor Tee HR, FB 1/4" 4 5" 1
52 Motor Plate HR, FB 1/4" 2 7" 1
53 Motor Pivots HR, FB 1/2" 1 2" 3
54 Motor Bracket HR Angle 1/4" 1-1/4" 8-1/4" 1
55 Not used
56 Motor Arm HR, FB 1/2" 1 12-1/2" 1
57 Die Plate, bottom HR, FB 1/2" 4" 4" 3 2 for jig
58 Turnbuckle ClevistoClevis 1/2" 6" take up 1 Amazon
59 Clutch Rod HR Round 1/2" 37" 1
60 Spade Terminal crimp type #12 wire split 3 ground wires
61 Spring C2906-6000-1288000 msdspring.com 1 800-633-7734
62 Pulley aluminum 3-1/2" 3-1/4" 1 or steel
63 Pulley setscrew steel, socket 1/4"-20 1/2" 2
64 Spring Hose Hose, rubber 3" id 6" 1
65 Hammer Pins W-1tool steel 3/4" Round 4" 2 MSC06010482
66 Spacers Black Pipe 3/4" Sch 40 3/8" 4
67 Treadle HR FB 1/4" 1" 66" 1
68 Treadle Pivot HR round 3/4" round 7" 1
69 Treadle Bearing Black pipe 3/4" Sch 40 6" 1
70 Treadle Cross Bar HR, FB 1/4" 1" 10" 1
71 Treadle Attach HR, FB 1/4" 1" 3" 1
72 Motor, 1 hp 1750 rpm,120/240volt,1ph,60cycles,Frame56,TEFC 1
73 Switch 120v 20 amps SPST 1
74 Box, Switch Steel utility box, 4" long x 2-1/8" wide,1-1/2" deep 1
75 Cover, Switch steel box cover 4" long x 2-1/8"wide, single toggle 1
76 Clamp Connector Non-metallic sheathed cable connectors 3/8" 3
77 Wire 12-2 w ground heavy duty extension cable 25'
78 Plug 20 amp 120 v NEMA 5-20P 1 2 parallel w/gnd
79 Wire Nuts plastic #12 yellow 5
80 Bolt, socket head steel 1/2"-13 1-1/2" 4 die
81 Bolts steel 3/8"-16 2 1/2" 4 lead, turnbuckle
82 Nuts Steel 3/8"-16 16
83 Locknuts Nyloc 1/2"-13 4 Axle
84 Bolts steel 3/8"-16 1-1/2" 6 PillowBlock, guard
85 Bolt, Axle attach Steel 1/2" -13 Grade 5 1-1/2" 4 Axle
86 Bolt, socket head Steel 1/2"-13 1/2" ( or 1") 2 adj screw drive
87 Washers Steel, black 3/4" ID 6 clevis pins,treadle
88 Nuts steel 1/2" -13 1 turnbuckle
89 Lock Washers Lock, steel 1/2" id 4 die
90 Flat Washers steel 1/2" id 15 rim to hub
91 Bolt, Motor attach Steel 5/16"-18 1" 4 motor
92 Nut Steel 5/16"-18 4 motor
93 Flat washer steel 5/16" 4 motor
94 Lock washer steel 5/16" 4 motor
Part Name Material Size" Width" Length" Quantity
95 Lock Washers steel 3/8" 4 guard, lead
96 Flat washer steel 3/8" 4 guard, lead
97 Motor Spring steel 9/16" dia 1/8"wire 6" 1 trampoline spring
98 Grease wheel bearing grease
99 Locktite blue 1
100 Brake Rods Steel 3/8" all thread 3-1/4" 2
101 Spring hook Round HR/CR 1/4" dia 12" 1
102 Strap, one hole steel for 1/2" EMT 3
103 Brake Pad HR plate 1/4" 2" 4" 1
104 Brake Plate HR plate 1/4" 4" 4" 1
105 Guide Jig HR square 1/2" 11-1/4" 1
106 Crank Pin Nut Steel nut 1"-8 1
107 Crank Pin Jig Black Pipe 1" Sch 40 4" 1
Note 1 Hub and Rim must have same lug circle diameter and number of lugs.
Revised and Copyright November4, 2020

IMPORTANT: Check all rims to see that they fit the hubs backwards.
Note 2 Crank plate must be cut to fit the rim used, 15" for 14" rim, etc.

Large 8" diameter, 500 lb anvil must be used with solid 70 lb hammer head.
Changes for heavy anvil, solid hammer head and new counterweight
Part Matl ize Length Qty
PN 2 Anvil any steel 8" dia 36" 500 lb
PN 9 Hammer HR/CR steel 4" square 15" 1
PN 10 not used
PN 11 not used
PN 15 not used
PN 20 Bearing Stop HR, 1/4" 6-1/4" square 1
PN 21 Crankplate HR plate 1" x 10 10-3/4" 1
PN 22 Pipe HR 6" 3" 1
PN 23 Hub Plate HR 1/2" 6" dia 1
PN 28 Hub Spacer HR 1/4" 1
PN 29 not used
PN 66 Set screw 3/8"-16 1" 4
PN 72 Motor,1-1/2hp240 volt 1750 rpm, TEFC,Fr 56 1
PN 85 All thread 1/4"-20 1-1/2" long 4
PN 108 Nut 1/4"-20 Nylok 4

Drawings not used

Page 6 alternate mounting plate Change radius on PN 4 from 3" to 4"
Page 11 Counterweight
Page 12 Crank Plate weldment
Page 13 Crank Plate weldment, counter weight, bolts, nuts, washers
Page 14
Page 15 Guide stops
Page 16
Page 23 Original method of tire mounting assy,
 Drill 7/16”
3” dia 3/4”
1/2”
Mark center, heat and
9”
edge bend both sides

5/16” 3/4”
Treadle Attach, PN 71
1/4” x 1” x 3”
Treadle, PN 67, 1/4” x 1” x 66”

Clamp center section in vise

heat each side and bend sides 3”
up 90°

Drill 3/16”

Treadle Bearing, PN 69
7” 3/4” black pipe x 6”
Weld Treadle to Pivot

Treadle Bearing 12”

Weldment, PN 222

5” Treadle Attach
Bend sides back in
to fit Treadle Bearing PN 71
Weldment, PN 222 Bend sides out

Treadle Weldment, PN 202 Weld

Cross Bar
Treadle Bearing Tack Weld PN 70
1/4” x 1” x 10”

Washer, PN 87 Treadle Attach Weldment

Treadle Pivot, PN68, 3/4” round x 7” PN 221
Treadle Bearing Weldment
PN 222

1
 3/8” Drill 3/8” Drill
1/2”

5/8”

1/2”
1 1/2”
3/8” Drill

Motor Arm
PN 56, 1/2” x 1” x 12 1/2”
5/8”

Motor Pivot
PN 53, ,1/2” x 1” x 2”
Motor Arm and Motor Pivot

Crank Bolster, PN 25
Blk Pipe, Sch 80, 1”

Face both ends

perpendicular 1 3/4” Bore/drill 1.00”
to sides in lathe

Crank Bolster

Anvil Brace, PN 8
1/4” x 2” x 5 5/8”

45°

5 5/8”
Anvil Brace
2
 7/16” Drill/Punch

1” 2”

Spring Guard, PN 27 3/4”

16 gage, 9” x 14”

1/4” radius

Slight Break

Brake Plate, PN 104

1/4” x 4” x 4”

Brake Pad, PN 103

1/4” x 2” x 4”

3” 3”
1”
1/2”

Plasma/torch
3” cut

1”
1” 2”
5 9/16”

7/16” Drill/Punch
2 holes Weld all around
2 places

Brake Rod, PN 100

3/8”all thread x 3 1/4”

Brake Pad Weldment

PN 220
3
 Stem, PN 37, 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 3” Rod End Tube, PN 35
1” Sch 80 black pipe x 1 9/16”
Face both ends in lathe to
1.5” long, perpendicular to
sides.
Bore or drill and ream to
Weld both sides 1.00” diameter.
Chamfer

Bore must be parallel

to Stem sides and be
perpendicular to Stem
edges after welding.
If necessary after
welding ream 1.00.

Grind weld flush.

Stem Weldment, PN 209

In lathe, pilot drill 3/8” Drill No. 7, 2 places,

drill/bore 39/64“ 90° apart, drill 9/32”
Drill other end 1” clearance clearance 3/4“ deep
ream 5/8” Tap 1/4”-20
broach 3/16” x 3/32” keyway 3/4”

3/4”

1/8” radius 1 1/2”

3 15/32”
after cleanup 3”
cut on OD
Pulley, PN 62
Aluminum, 3 1/2” dia x 3 1/4”
4
 This hole pattern is used in 4 places
when building a Tire Hammer.
Make a precise layout and drill exactly
on the marks. Make your first layout
on the Bottom Die Block, PN 57, 1/2”
x 4” x 4”. Cut this block square (or
grind or mill) and layout center lines
using a centering head on a trisquare.
Scribe a line from each of 4 corners.
Prick punch the center in center of
1 13/16” scribe lines. Measure 1 13/16” from
center to one hole. Measure 3 5/8”
back to opposite hole.Check distance
between prickpunch marks. Move
marks if necessary, then center punch
deep. Pilot drill with a new 1/4” bit.
3 5/8”
Use this plate as a transfer jig
to mark the Top Die Plate, PN 48,
Bottom, PN 10 and top of Anvil
PN 2. (A 1/2” hole drilled in center of
the plate will be a help centering on
anvil).

Top Die Plate, PN 48, 1/2” x 3 7/8” x 3 7/8”
Bottom Die Plate, PN 57, 1/2” x 4” x 4”
Two jig blocks, 1/2“ x 4” x 4“, PN 57
Drill 9/16” holes, 2 places in each
of above pieces
In addition, you should cut two more
4” plates and transfer the hole pattern
to them. They will be used to make a
jig to align the hammer to the anvil.

Center Die on Plate Drill 27/64”, through

at angle, center Tap 1/2”-13, 1” deep
Flat Die , PN 49,
between holes 2 places
1 1/2” x 2” x 3”, 4140
and edges Radius edges 1/8” to 1/4”
1/8”
radius Top Die Plate
PN 48, !/2” x
3 7/8“ x 3 7/8”

Clamp, Tack weld

2 places
23° Preheat to 400° F
Weld all around
See sheet 23 for Bottom, PN 10
heat treating 1 1/4” x 3 1/2” x 3 1/2”
Top Die Weldment
Grind 3/16” bevel for welding
PN 213
Die Block and Top Die Weldment

5
 2 1/2”
1 1/4”
1 1/2” 2”

This Mounting Plate 2 1/2”

is not used with stub
2” axles such as Northern 2”
or Agri-Supply.

Drill 17/32”
4 places

2.7”

3 3/16” diameter circle

Used only with rear axles

Mark both edges of plate from older front drive
on centerline with chisel cars.

Base, PN 1
Alternate Mounting Plate 1/2” x 24” x 24”
1/2” x 5” x 6”

12” Punch/drill 9/16 ”

4 places

3” ra
dius

2”
Spacer, PN 4, 5” square tubing
x 1/4” wall x 10”
Change radius to match 2”
diameter of anvil.

6
 Spring Pipe, PN 50
1” sch 40 black pipe Spring Spacer
x 1 1/2” PN 47, 1 1/4”
Pipe Sch 40 x 1”
Washer, PN 45
3” OD x 1 3/8” ID Weld 3 places, 1/2”
Spring End, PN 46, 1”Rnd x 1/4”
x 11/64”
PN 45 1/4”
PN 47
PN 50

PN 46

1/4”

Weld all around

1/16” Weld all around

Weld Spring Pipe to Spring

Washer all around end Pipe is welded to both sides of washer
Grind weld out of hole, chamfer Spring Bushing Weldment, PN 215

Weld all around, grind so nut will pass over Chamfer 1/8”

Cap Screw, Socket Head Adjusting Screw, PN 43

PN 86, 1/2”-13 x 1/2” 7/8”-9 Threaded Rod x 6”
Adjusting Screw Weldment
PN 216
7
 3” 1 3/4” clearance hole
plasma, torch or drill

1 7/16”
2”

Pin Stop, PN 44
1/4” round, 3/4”
1/4” radius
3/4” 4 1/2”
Clamp/tack 2 sides
Cross Head Side, PN 31 together, pilot drill 1/4”
1/4” x 3” x 6”
drill 3/4”, 2 places

7/8” 4 1/4”

1 1/2”

7/16” drill Front

2 places
Cross Head Bottom , PN32 Weld
1/4” x 3” x 6” 2 pieces
Use Clevis Pin, PN 34
to align Pin Stop
Weld outside only
both sides

13/16”
1 5/8”

Put 1 5/8” spacer between sides for welding

with 2 bolts, 3/4” diameter, thru holes and End
clamp sides to base. After welding keep
clamped until cool.
Cross Head Weldment, PN 212

8
 Stem Weldment
22° PN 209

3/16” Drill
after Bushing Bushing, PN 36
is pressed Press Bushing
in in after welding
5/8 ” Arm Weldment
PN 210

1 1/2” Weld
both sides

22°

Adjusting Nut
After welding, drilled PN 42
holes in PN 40 and
hole in Stem Weld- Weld all
ment, PN 209 must be around. Put
plug in Nut 12”
parallel in both
planes. while
welding

Put a 3/4” bolt and Arm Spacer

nut thru sides with PN 41
Rod End Tube be- Weld
tween sides to line both sides
up for welding
6”
Pin Stop, PN 44
Clamp 2 pieces
1/4” round x
1/4” pilot drill
1/2”
3/4” drill, keep
together for Weld 2”
welding assy

3/4”

1/4” radius
1” Left hand Side view
Use Clevis Pin, PN 34 in hole to align Pin Stop, PN 44.
Arm Side, PN 40 Weld Pin Stop, PN 44 on this side for left hand Arm
1/4” x 2” x 11 1/2” and on opposite side for right hand Arm.

Arm Weldment, PN 210

9
 Link, PN 38, 1/2” x 1” x 4 5/8”

Weld all around both ends

6”

Rod End Tube, PN 35

1” sch 80 black pipe x 1 1/2” Bores must be parallel
Face both ends in lathe to to Link sides and be
1.5” long. perpendicular to Link
Bore or drill and ream to edges after welding.
1.00” diameter. If necessary after
Chamfer welding ream again.

Bushing, PN 36 Press bushings in place

Ream .750”

Drill 3/16” hole on center top, both ends

Link Weldment, PN 211

10
 1 1/2”
1 1/8”
Drill 7/16 ”
2 places

rad ius 2”
7”

8 1/2”
4 3/8”
3”
7”

3 3/4”

Guide Bearing, PN 12A

2” Side Shim, PN 14A

This is cutout pattern for bearings

and shims that go on the sides of
the hammer. Half the bearings
Counter Weight, PN 28, 7 3/4 lb. and shims should be cut to this
pattern. Remove all burrs.
Dimensions given are for inside bottom of a mold to cast a
lead counter weight. Mold should be 1 1/4” high. The outside
lines represent the top inside of the mold, giving about 1/4”
slope to sides so solidified lead may be removed.
Pour enough lead so weight is 7 3/4 lb.

Melting and pouring lead is very dangerous. Be careful!

Do not breathe fumes. Wear protective clothes, safety
glasses, face shield, leather gloves, high top leather shoes.
Work outside. Do not spill hot lead. Water explodes to steam
and blasts hot lead everywhere if it is put into the hot pot.
Preheat ladle to remove water.
11
 2” both sides
1 1/2” both sides
3 3/8” radius
Crank Plate, PN 21 7/16” drill
1/4” plate 2 places

1/2” Drill
3 places
5”
2 1/2”

Plasma or torch cut 2”

Grind edges smooth

Cut circle 1/4” smaller than

diameter inside rim lip

Pilot drill 1/4”

Drill 1”, Chamfer 1/16”
Spoke, PN 23
Crank Pin, PN 24 1/2” square x 3 1/4”
1” dia. Bolt Spoke, PN 22
1/2” square x 6”
Weld all around

Bolster, PN 25
Crank Pin Jig
PN 107
Crank Pin Nut
PN 106

90°

Put Crankpin, PN 24 through

Crank plate, PN 21 and
Bolster, PN 25. then put on
a pipe spacer jig and tighten
very tight with a 1” nut.
Pipe spacer should have both
Space spokes 3/8” from bolt
end faced on lathe. Weld intermittent
Weld all around bolt head
Weld Bolster and Crank Pin 1” weld, 1 1/2” spacing
weld spokes to bolt head
head before removing nut.
to height of bolt head Weld 1” each end, each side
Cut off Crank pin at 4 1/2” from
front of Crank Plate
Crank Plate Weldment, PN 206
12
Weld Axle PN 18 to PN 19 Mounting Plate before assembling the bearings and Hub to Axle.
After cool, grease bearings and install axle and bearings in Hub PN 17. Install washer and nut,
torque as specified, install cotter pin and dust cover.

Place axle/hub in vise. Place tire rim on hub, reversed from the way it fit on car.
Use none, 1, 2 or 3 Washers, PN 90, on each lug as required to prevent rim from rocking on hub.
Install and tighten lug nuts evenly by hand or impact wrench, incrementally and across diagonals
until tight and tire does not wobble as it is rotated. Torque lug nuts to 75 - 85 ft. lbs.
Place an indicator point near the tire tread so the wobble may be observed as tire is rotated.

Hub
Axle

Adjust the lug nuts and number of the washers until the wobble is 1/8” or less. Be sure the lugs are
tight. They will be difficult but not impossible to reach after the crank plate is welded to the rim.

Tire Axle Assembly, PN 224

Counterweight, PN 28 Flat Washer, PN 96

Lock Washer, PN 95 Bolt, PN 81

Nut, PN 82

4 1/2”

Cut bolt at 4 1/2”

Crank Assembly
Crank Plate Weldment, PN 206
PN 225

13
 Remove valve stem to deflate
tire.

Wash tire with water hose and

use air blow gun to clean any
debris from bead area.

Block tire on bench.

Use tool similar to this or C-clamp

to break bead on one side.

Put 8 spacers, about 1”

Blocks
high, between rim and tire.

A wet rope may be used on

cotton fabric and pushed
between tire bead and rim.
Do not weld on any rim that has had leak sealant
injected thru the valve. Welders have been killed
when the butane propellant exploded. Do not
weld or heat any tire/rim if pressure in tire.
Place a wet cotton cloth
Crank Plate Weldment Tire Axle Assembly, PN 224
between the rim and tire.
PN 206
Make 8 equally spaced
marks about 2” long on
crank plate. Center the
crank plate in the rim.
Place welder ground clamp
on crank plate (do not
ground the table and have
current go thru the bearings).
Tack 2 or 3 places. Weld
2” and then weld opposite
until all welds are done.

Do not allow any debris from

welding or towel to remain
Wet cotton cloth Spacers on bead and do not allow
tire rubber to contact hot
Rim Crank Assembly, PN 208 metal or you will have a leak.
Replace valve stem and inflate tire to 60 psi. After
Do not use leak sealant with butane
several hours check air pressure. If leak, break bead
propellant through the valve.
and clean, use sealant on bead.

14
 Bolt, PN 84
3/8”-16 x 1 1/2 “

Weld

Pin, PN15
1/4” round x 8”

Weld ends only

Weld
Weld
1 3/4”
1”
1 1/2”
1”

2”

Guide Tube
PN 5, 5” sq
tubing, 1/4”
wall x 8 1/2”

Weld

Guide Stop, PN 13
1/4” x 1/2” x 3”
Grind off the weld seam inside tube
using angle grinder, remove handle
and guard

3/16”
4 places

Guide Weldment, PN 203

15
 For welding, put 3/4” shaft
Weld top, sides and bottom
or rod through holes and
of collar to get 2” weld on each
collars, clamp set screws
collar.

Collar, PN 11
Weld collars
Grind corner to
to tube
fit inside tube
remove shaft,
Top view ream .750”
Top view
2” 1 1/2”
1” 1 1/4”

2 1/2”
3/4”

Remove mill scale Pilot drill 1/4”

and polish Hammer 3/4” drill through
tube with 150 grit on milling machine
wheel or belt. or heavy duty drill
Grinding marks press.
should run Plug screw holes
Holes must be
longwise. and pour lead in
perpendicular to
hammer until it
sides.
weighs 50 lb.
Hammer Tube, PN 9
4” sq tubing, 1/4” wall
x 15”
3/4”
3/4” drill
8 places

1”
2”
Plug weld Either Side
Chamfer 3/16” Front or Back 8 places
inside tube for Run 1/2”-13 tap
grind flat
weld in threads after
welding if
necessary
Bottom, PN 10 Weld all around, grind
1 1/4” x 3 1/2” weld flat
x 3 1/2”
Bottom View Grind welds flat on
Important! Be sure threaded holes are in this orientaion bottom and sides
and Bottom, PN 10 is perpendicular to both sides
Bottom view
before welding
Hammer Weldment
PN 204
16
 Motor Arm, PN 56
1/2” x 1” x 12 1/2”

Brake Plate, PN 104

1/4” x 4” x 4”
1/4”

Weld 1” each end

first

Motor Pivot, PN 53
Weld full across 1/2” x 1” x 2”
second

6”

Weld
2”

Align hole centerline

with edge of plate

Weld Weld

Motor Base Weldment

PN 219

Motor Plate-Arm Weldment

PN 217

17
 Motor Pivot
PN 53 Grind bevel

5/8” ref
Polish
with fine
grit to
remove
scale
Motor Bracket Grind flat Clevis Pin, PN 34
PN 54, 1/4” x 1 1/4” Do not grind 3/4” diameter x
angle x 8 1/4” below dia- 2 17/64” grip
1 3/4” meter

3/8” drill/punch
4 places Motor Tee
PN 51, 1/4” x 1/2”
4” x 5”
5/8”

5 7/8” 3”

5”

Clamp both pieces flat.

Weld both
sides, grind
top flat
1/16” gap
1 1/2”

Motor Mount Weldment Motor Plate

PN 218 PN 52, 1/4” x 2” x 7” Motor Base Weldment, PN 219

18
 Weld with
1/2” spacer
between and
3/8” bolt thru
Bevel both ends hole
and weld

Turnbuckle, PN 58
Bevel both ends
Clevis ends, 1/2” x 6”
and weld

Nut, PN 88
1/2”-13
Use any 1/2” x 6” or
Adjust turnbuckle longer take up turn-
to center of its buckle, cut ends off
51”
travel Cut PN 59 longer
or shorter if required

Cut L end
at end of Drill 3/8”
threads
1/2”

Clutch Rod, PN 59
1/2” round x 37”
4”

6” Plates
1/4” x 1” x 3”
Make 4
These are not
Keep bolt and nut or clevis on Parts List
4” pin from turnbuckle and use
for lower connection.
Weld with
1/2” spacer
Bevel both ends
between and
and weld
3/8” bolt thru
hole
Alternate Constructon of Turnbuckle
Turnbuckle Weldment, PN 214
Weldment
If you cannot get clevis ends turnbuckles

19
 Adjusting Screw Weldment
PN 216
Arm Weldment
Adjusting Nut, PN 42 PN 210

Spacer, PN 26
Cross Head Weldment
PN 212
Bolt Pillow Block, PN 33 inside Cross
Head Weldment.

Install Adjusting Screw, PN 216 into

Clevis Pin, PN 34 Arm Weldments about 1” with Spacer,
PN 108 and Nut, PN 42

Attach Right and Left Arm Weldments

to Cross Head Weldment with Clevis
Pins, PN 34, Washers, PN 87 and
Cotter Pins, PN39.

Pillow Block, PN 33

Cotter Pin, PN 39
Washer, PN 87

Bolt, PN 84, 3/8”-16 x1 1/2”

Flat Washer, PN 96, 3/8”
Lock Washer, PN 98, 3/8”
Nut, PN 82, 3/8”-16 Arm Cross Head Assembly
PN 226

20
 Use Bottom Die Plate, PN 57 as transfer
Braces, PN 8 punch jig to locate holes in top of
1/4” x 2” x 5 5/8”
anvil. Place center of plate on center- R
line of the anvil 12” from front of column. A
Square sides of plate to column. Y
C
L
12” Bottom Die Plate, PN 57 O
N
T
Z
Column, PN 3
45° Weld all 5” square tube T
around 1/4” wall x 68 3/4” I
R
.125 Drill 27/64”, 1 1/2” deep
E
Tap 1/2”-13, 1” deep
2 places Anvil, PN 2 H
6” Rnd x 36” A
1/2” M
12” M
Base, PN 1 Weld both sides E
1/2” x 24” 4 pieces R
x 24” Spacer, PN 4
5” square tube,
Weld all around 10”
1/4” wall x 10”
3”
Weld
Weld
all around
Treadle Attach Weld A A
Weldment, PN 221
Section A-A
Clamp treadle sides together to fit to 4”
Treadle Attach Weldment for welding
Treadle Assy
Frame Weldment, PN 201 PN 202
21
 Sequence:
Bolt jig to anvil and hammer, evenly
Square hammer to column
Install bearing and shims
Tack weld top center both Measure and cut Guide Attach, PN 6
R
ends first, then all corners Tack Guide Attach in place - Do not force.
A
alternately.After bearings Remove bearings
Y
are removed weld all Weld Guide Attach to Guide and column
around both ends, Let cool, unbolt jig
C
Replace bearings and shims
L
O Guide Attach
9 Guide Bearings PN 12, front/back & PN12A, sides
N PN 6, cut to fit Shims PN 14, front/back and PN 14A, sides
T
Put as many shims equally on all 4 positions as you can
Z
and still be able to raise Guide. Usually it takes 2 shims on
Weld all one side and 3 on opposite side. Same for front and back.
T
I around
R Guide Weldment, PN 203
E Hammer Weldment PN 204
Bolt Hammer Align Jig, PN 228 to Anvil
H
12” 11 1/4” and to Hammer Weldment, PN 204
A with Bolts, PN 80
M
When bolting Jig to Anvil and Hammer, square
M
E Hammer to column when tightening bolts.
R Guide W. Socket head bolt, PN 80
Jig, PN 105
1/2”square x
11 1/4” long.
After Guide Bearings and Shims
are in place, measure PN 6 and cut.

Note how many shims are on each face.

Place Guide Attach, PN 6 in position and tack weld both
ends on top center of PN 6 first, then all corners.

Remove Guide Bearings, PN 12 & 12A

then weld PN 6 to Column, PN 3 and Guide
Weldment, PN 203.

After welds have cooled to touch, remove Bolts,

PN 80. Replace guide bearings and shims in same
locations as removed. Jig may be left in place with
bolts removed, to hold hammer up.

Attaching Guide Weldment to Column

22
 Weld axle on centerline
of the plate 2 3/4”
1/4”

Weld
3 sides
Weld all
Mounting Plate, PN 19 68 3/4” around
3/4” x 5” x 6” above
base
Axle, PN 18, Northern 12455-1705
1 3/4” square, 1750 lbs. capacity
Use Hub 206-1705, 5 lugs on 4 1/2” centers
You must find rims with this lug pattern.
For some rims the OD of hub must be Position Mounting Plate on top of column
trimmed/ground to fit back of rim. to get 2 3/4” dimension. Be sure axle is
perpendicular to column and is mounted
on centerline of the column.

Axle Mounting using Northern, Agri-Supply or other Axle

Tire Mounting Plate Assy, PN 227

Original Method
Bolts,
Locknuts, 1/2”-13 x 1 1/2”
1/2”

These parts not

on parts list

Mounting Plate,
1/2” x 5” x 6”
Tire Axle Assy, PN 224
Make sure grease seal on inside of hub is flat against hub. Put bolts, PN 85
thru hub before installing axle and bearings into hub.

Axle mounting System using Rear Axle from Front drive Car
Column, PN 3, must be 70 1/2” high, with cutout for nuts.
23
 Clamp Tire Mounting Plate Assy, PN 227
Mounting Tire and Aligning Dies
to column.

After clamping Tire-

Mounting Plate Assy,
this distance must be
between 2 1/2” and
3 1/8”.

R
70 1/2” A Bearing Stop,
Y PN 20
For 36”
anvil and C
1 1/2” Dies L
O
Adjust for N Weld across
other sizes T bottom 4
Z places Attach Top Die,
PN 213 with Bolt,
T Weld Mounting PN 80 and Lock
I Plate, PN 19 to Washers, PN 89.
R Column, PN 3
all around, (not Hammer Place Flat Die,
E Alignment Jig PN 49 on Die
inside column).
Plate, PN 57
H Bearing Stop, Attach Bottom
A PN 20 Die Plate, PN 57
M with Bolts, PN
M 80 and Lock
E Washers, PN 89.
R
Lower Hammer until dies touch.
Top View of Hammer
Align loose bottom die with
and Guide showing
top die. Tack weld bottom die
locations of Bearing
to die plate. Remove, preheat
Stop, PN 20, 4 places
to 400° F and weld all around.

Heat Treating 4140 Dies

Heat dies to 1200°F, soak for 15 minutes or until heated

uniformly. Heat to 1575°F and soak until uniformly
heated. Hold for another 10 minutes.
Quickly quench in warm oil (150°F) until below 200°F.
Do not allow 4140 to get below 100°F before
tempering. Temper at 400°F in toaster oven. Use
Temperature sticks or IR Thermometer.

24
 Block Hammer W’ment up.
Connect Link Weldment
to Hammer with Hammer
Pins, PN 65 and Spacers,
PN 66. Be sure pins do not
extend outside Hammer
tube. Grind any protrusion
flush. Tighten set screws in
1/4 collars.
Place Arm Cross Head
Assembly on Crank Pin.
Do not tighten set screws
in Pillow Block yet.
After Links are attached to
Arms, remove 2 set screws
from pillow block (90° apart)
apply Locktite to the set
screws and tighten them
against crank pin.
Arm Cross Head Assembly
Link W’ment
PN 226
PN 211
Hammer Pin Spacer, PN 66
After Links are attach- PN 65 Link W’ment
ed to Hammer, then PN 211
attach Link W’ment to
Arm Cross Head Assy
with Clevis Pin, PN 34
Washer, PN 87 and
Cotter Pin, PN 39
Hammer W’ment
PN 204
Grind Pins off if they
protrude past the Hammer
tube
25
 Pulley,
PN 62

Brake Pad
Weldment PN 220
Motor, PN 72
Motor-Plate Arm, PN 217
Nuts, 3/8” double
90° Bolt, PN 91, Flat Bolts, 3/8” x 1 1/2” PN 84, Nuts, PN 82
Washers, PN 93, Flat Washers, PN 96, 4
Lock Washer, PN Lock Washers, PN 95, 4
94, Nuts, PN 92 Motor Mount Weldment,
PN 219
Weld, top and bottom
After Tire-Mounting Plate is welded to Column

Assemble motor to Motor-Plate Arm, PN 217, with Bolts, PN 91, Flat Washers, PN 93,
Lock Washers, PN 94 and Nuts, PN 92. Install Pulley, PN 62, on motor shaft with 2 setscrews,
PN 63, and key (taped to motor). Leave about 1/2” clearance between pulley and motor
housing.

Attach the Brake Pad Weldment, PN 220 to the Motor Plate-Arm Weldment, PN 217
with 4 Nuts, PN 82. Brake Pad must not touch the Tire when clamping the Motor
Mount Weldment, PN 219 to the column.

Use 3/8“ Bolts, 1 1/2”, PN 84 with 2 Nuts, PN 82 on each bolt to attach to Motor Mount Weld-
ment, PN 219. Bolts/nuts should be tight to stop rattle, loose enough for motor mount to
move up and down.
Clamp Motor Mount Weldment, PN 219 to Column so that the Pulley is 1/4” from the
Tire with Motor level. Make sure small screws extending from front of the motor are
at least 1/4” from the tire as it rotates.

Square the Motor Mount Weldment, PN 219, to the column then weld the Angle to
the column.
Mounting Motor to Frame

26
 Block Hammer up until
Links are nearly horizontal.
Put Spring inside Spring
Hose and put a Spring
Bushing in each end of
the spring.
1/4 Back Adjusting Screws out
until left one sticks past the
Arm about 1/2”. The right
screw should not stick past
the arm sides.
Put the Spring between
Adjusting Screws. Hook on
the left screw. Force the
Spring up by prying with a
wooden 2x4. Turn the right
screw in until it starts in
the hole. Turn screws
alternately until the
Spring Bushings are about
1/8 ” from the arms. Check
length of the spring.
The Springs are usually ad-
justed correctly when they
are compressed 1/2”. They
are 6” long uncompressed.
Do not include the washer
Spring, PN 61 thickness in the measure-
Spring Bushing ment.
Spring Hose
Weldment, PN 215
PN 64
Adjusting Screws should
Lock Nut, PN 42 be turned in equally and
Spring Bushings should
be just clear of Arm sides.
Tighten Lock Nuts, PN 42
after spring is properly
Spring is adjusted adjusted.
correctly when hammer
strikes anvil hard and Do not operate hammer
evenly, without without Spring Hose
irregular bouncing. around Spring.
Spring Installation
27
 Electrical Wiring

Strap. PN 102
Clamp. PN 76 Weld to Spacer

Tack weld,
3 places
Strap, PN102 Box, PN 74,
Weld to Column Switch, PN 73
Cover, PN 75,
Clamps, PN 76
Wire, PN 77
Plug, PN 78

Wire the plug, switch and motor in accordance with the electrical code in your community.
If you are not a competent electrician, hire one or get a friend to help you.
It is better to connect the motor for 240-volt operation as that draws less current and has lower
voltage drop. The motor comes from the factory wired for 240-volts. That requires different plug
and wall socket. Connection for 120-volt is given below. Motor may rotate in either direction.

Cut 32” of wire to go from switch to motor. Connect wires in motor connection box in accordance
with diagram on motor for voltage you are using. Strip covering and wire, install clamp and attach
black wire to line 1 with wire nut, white wire to line 2 and bare wire to ground in motor connection
box. Strip ends and install other end of wire through a clamp in hole near top of switch box.

Strip and install one end of long wire in switch box through hole in top of box. Attach black wires to
switch terminals, connect white wires together with wire nuts and connect bare/ground wires together
and connect grounds to metal box.

Strip wires as directed by plug instructions and connect black wire to brass colored screw, white to
cadmium/light colored screw and bare/ground to green screw.
Secure wire to frame with Straps, PN 102 in several locations to keep wire away from hot metal.

28
 Spring Hook, PN101
Bend 1” wide hook
on one end then
make 135° bend at
point which stretches
spring about 2”.

Weld
Motor Spring
R PN 97
A
Spring Guard,
Y
PN 27 Bolt, PN 81
C Nut, PN 83
L
O
N
Nut, PN 84 T
Washer, PN 96, 2 Z
Adjustments Washer, PN 95 Turnbuckle
First: T lock nut
Adjust Brake Pad to I
about 1/4 ” to 3/8” Brake Adjusting Nuts R
clearance when E Second:
pulley is just touch- Turnbuckle Weldment
Adjust turn-
ing the tire. PN 214 H buckle so
Do not allow brake A hammer runs
to drag when pulley M full speed
is turning the tire. M before treadle
E touches floor.
If tire pressure is R
changed you may Some parts not Tighten turn-
have to readjust shown for clarity. buckle lock
the brake pad and nut.
turnbuckle.

Bolt, PN 81
Nut, PN 82

Turnbuckle and Brake Adjust

29
 Jigs

Weld all
around
both ends

After welding
heat weld and
adjacent area
to red and let
cool 9”

Mill or surface
11 1/4” grind ends until
they are parallel
within 0.010”

Black Pipe, 2”
diameter, Sch 40
Bottom Die Plate,
PN 57
1/2” square
HR

Centerlines of
holes in both
ends must be
parallel after
Guide Weldment Jig, PN 105 assembly.

1 13/16”

3 5/8”

drill 9/16”
2 places
Ends must Hammer Align Jig, PN 228
Crank Pin Nut, be surfaced
PN 106, 1”-8 parallel in See drawing of Bottom Die Plate, PN 57
lathe. This jig bolts to the anvil and the Hammer
Weldment is bolted to the top. This insures
top and bottom dies will be parallel.
The ends must be welded so that the holes
Crank Pin Jig, PN 107 are in same plane.
1” pipe, Sch 40, It is important to make this jig very precise
4” long for your hammer to line up and work
properly.
30
Drill 5/16”, tap 3/8-16
over each pin.
Cut notch by sawing,
milling, drilling
PN 66, Setscrew
4 pieces
3/8”-16,1” long Top view Top view
2” 1 1/2”
1” 1 1/4”

2 1/2”
3/4”

Remove mill scale Pilot drill 1/4”

and polish Hammer 3/4” drill through
tube with 150 grit on milling machine
wheel or belt. or heavy duty drill
Grinding marks press.
should run Holes must be
longwise. perpendicular to
sides.

File 1/16” flat each Hammer Head, PN 9

corner 4” square solid
x 15”

Either Side
Front or Back

Drill 29/64”, 2” deep

tap 1/2”-20, 1-1/2” deep
3-5/8” apart as shown
on page 5
Be sure hole in this
orientation for right
hand person

Bottom view

Hammer
PN 204
16
 Bolt, PN 84
PN 20 Bearing Stop, 3/16” x 6-1/4” x 6-1/4” 3/8”-16 x 1 1/2 “

Weld

5-1/4”
typ
4-1/16”
4-7/8”
typ
Weld
Weld
Drill 1/4”, 4 places 1 3/4”
1”
1 1/2”

1”
2”

Guide Tube
PN 5, 5” sq
tubing, 1/4”
wall x 8 1/2” Right Side PN 85, 1/4”
dia. all thread
Weld 1-1/2” long , 4
PN 108, 1/4” -20
Front Nylok, 4

Grind off the weld seam inside tube

using small angle grinder, (remove Guide Stop, PN 13
handle and guard) 1/4” x 1/2” x 3”

Hammer Head
3/16”
4 places must be in place
when Guide Stop
is fitted

Guide Weldment, PN 203

15
 PN 21 May have to
counter weight grind corners
1” x 6” x 10-3/4” to fit some rims.
hot rolled steel

center
line

center of pipe Weld all around

2”
3-5/16”

3” drill 1” thru
chamfer back 3”

Counterweight

Sides must
Put Crankpin, PN 24 through be parallel
Counterweight, PN 21 and within 1/64”
Weld all around Bolster, PN 25. then put on face in
a pipe spacer jig and tighten lathe if
very tight with a 1” nut. necessary
Bolster, PN 25
Pipe spacer should have both
Crank Pin Jig end faced on lathe.
PN 107 Weld Bolster and Crank Pin
Crank Pin Nut head before removing nut.
PN 106 Cut off Crank pin at 4 1/2” from
front of Crank Plate
PN 22, Pipe, 6” dia.
6-5/8” OD
side view
Weld all around

12
 PN23, Hub Plate, 1/2” hot rolled steel
6.5” dia., 5 bolt holes, 1/2“ dia., on 4.5” circle
Clearance hole to fit hub, 2-9/16” diameter
or larger
Put PN 98, 2” long bolts in holes and weld heads to
spacer, they will be inside pipe and inaccesable later

5 Holes, 1/2” dia.

PN 28 Hub Spacer on 4.5” diameter circle
Rims have bumps
that will break the
Hub, This spacer
prevents that.

2-3/4”
1/4” HR steel

Rim Actual shape

Some hubs will not fit into not shown
rims and will require
cutting/grinding outside
PN 23, Hub Plate
to go fully into rims. A few
1/2” flat washers or a Hub, PN 17
spacer may be required PN 28, Hub Spacer
because of bumps or weld all around
flange on the rims.
Can break hub! PN 98, Bolts, 5
PN 88 Nuts, 5
counter
weight

Pipe

PN 18 Axle
PN 24, crank pin PN 25
PN 17 Hub

Center ho;les in some rims may have

weld all around
to be enlarged to fit over the hub.
Assembly Grind hole larger, keep centered as
you grind.

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