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 Butternut Natural Wine Is Salsa Verde Coconut Chia
Squash Frittata Good for You, Right? Smash Burgers Breakfast Bowls
P. 8 9 P. 82 P. 72 P. 62

F E B R U A R Y 2019

Starting with
DANIELA SOTOINNES,
the fresh new face
of Mexican cooking
P. 52

21 p e op le w ho a re
alrea dy ma k in g
us fe el way, way be t t er
a bo u t 2 019
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The faces and places
at the forefront of the
wellness revolution
P. 5 0
BRING THE
GOOD VIBES
Daniela Soto-Innes reimagines
HOME.
Mexican cuisine…Turmeric
by the people, for the people… P. 70
How to handle that 4 p.m.
snack craving…Folk is the all-day
café with heart…Yardy
pushes restaurant culture out of its
box…The Native American
entrepreneur who’s preserving
wellness’s past and future…
The spirit we’re gonna go ahead
and call healthy…A designer
moving past midcentury monotony…
Fast-casual restaurants go to the
source…CBD caramel…Your skin
should eat well too…Clothing to
dye for (organically, of course)…
A natural wine worth talking
about…The illustrator changing
the way we see women…Cook like
Cortney Burns, the chef who
GUTTER

doesn’t cook like anyone else

PHOTOGRAPH

O N T H E C O V E R Photograph by Danielle Levitt. Food styling by Frances Boswell.

4  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 Wardrobe by Doria Santlofer. Hair and makeup by Timothy Aylward.
 Februar y BONAPPETIT.COM

WHEN YOU
REACH FOR THE
DRINK BECAUSE
OF THE GLASS.
P. 4 6

HOME A WAY B AS I C A L LY

15 22 39 44 91
Tool Kit Picky Eaters’ Club The Night Shift Highly You Can Brew
How—and why— Rebrand beans with With cold brews at Recommend Better Than That
to buy yourself a this red sauce ragù. dawn and pale Lamb neck shawarma, A beginner’s guide to
rice cooker. BY DEB PERELMAN ales at dusk, coffee handmade pasta, the home coffee grind.
shops turned bars and the most surprising BY ALEX DELANY
18 26 are the best places gas station in Austin. AND AMIEL STANEK
Party Tricks Game Day Dips to drink right now.
Pretend it’s not still It’s not a Super Bowl 46 T H E L AS T B I T E
snowing outside with party without dip. 42 Spotted
bright tropical fruits. The Read Kitschy decal glasses 96
28
BY LAURA MURRAY

BY ALISON ROMAN Twenty-four hours of have gone chic. Why morning show
Family Meal eating and drinking BY HILARY CADIGAN
20 Rotisserie chicken gets host Kelly Ripa
on a cruise ship, a always seems so I N E V ERY I SS UE
We’re Into It a makeover, and more floating kitchen that freaking peppy 12 editor’s letter
(Almost) everything wonderfully practical never sleeps. at that hour. 94 recipe index
GUTTER

Andy Baraghani weeknight meals.

PHOTOGRAPH

BY AMANDA SHAPIRO
can’t live without. BY DAVID TAMARKIN
BY ALYSE WHITNEY 94 sourcebook

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
 PUT TWO & TWO
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 Editor ’s Letter
This is Adam
wrapping his
brain around
Healthyish.
I Get
It Now
was all just going to be
E A R LY O N I R E A L LY T H O U G H T I T
about grain bowls and green juice. I was on a work trip to
Las Vegas, of all places, sitting poolside at one of those
ginormous resort/casinos, where servers always seem to
magically appear bearing baskets of nachos and pool-safe
aluminum bottles of light beer.
This was April 2016. Bon Appétit’s then publisher, Pam
Drucker Mann, asked if I thought we could launch a site
inspired by our annual start-the-year-fresh Healthyish issue.
12  F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9
Absolutely.
That was my short, honest answer. Seem-
ingly everyone I knew at the time, especially my
mostly millennial staff, was cramming in yoga
classes before or after work, swilling kombucha,
downloading meditation apps, yet still finding
time to go out every night (hence the ish).
Who needed a focus group? It was all right
there in front of me.
Boy, did I not know what I was talking about.
Since we launched Healthyish (behealthyish
.com) almost exactly two years ago, its editor,
Amanda Shapiro, has taken the site in direc-
tions I never envisioned. And only now, after a
bruising 2018, do I fully understand why.
I thought being healthy meant getting in
shape, fitting into the same size jeans I wore a
decade ago, remembering to put on moistur-
izer with SPF—all that good-for-you stuff.
But then this past year happened.
At work we grappled with a restaurant
industry exposed by #metoo, forcing us to
reckon with accused chefs and restaurateurs
whom we had featured in this magazine,
hosted dinners with, and knew socially.
Outside of work, well, our president hap-
pened, and one natural disaster after another
and...you know the list.
So while you can still find stories on Healthy-
ish like “38 Healthy Egg Recipes Because What
Is Life Without Eggs?,” what Shapiro and her
deputy, Aliza Abarbanel, have really done is
foster a network of storytellers and listeners.
Healthyish is a site that’s as much about essays
and interviews and honest looks at our lives as it
is about food. It taps into all those talented,
concerned, worried, optimistic human beings
who are driving what wellness means today.
They are who inspired this issue—the people
behind the movement. And if it feels like well-
ness has taken over the world, as we proclaim
on page 50, it’s because so many of us need that
PHOTOGRAPH BY VICTOR PRADO
to be the case. We want to get healthy. Even if
we’re just now understanding what that means.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
edit or i n ch ief
@rapo4 on instagram
 behealthyish.com

good food. good health. good vibes.

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

 ADVERTISEMENT

COOK9O
The Cookbook
From the Editors of

ORDER NOW AT EPICURIOUS.COM/COOK90BOOK

 A TRIP TO THE TIME TO GET
TROPICS YOUR DIP ON
p . 18 R e c i p e s , Te s t K i t c h e n K n o w - H o w, a n d E s s e n t i a l G o o d s p. 26

Full
Steam
Ahead
How to buy—and
make the most out
of—a rice cooker,
the unofficial
appliance of the
BA Test Kitchen

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9  15
 H o m e – To o l K i t

I swiped right on my Zojirushi rice cooker years ago and have never looked

cooks in motion. Several mornings a week, the first thing I do when I get to

or mixed whole grains for family meal, the lunch our kitchen team cooks and
eats together every day. When everyone is hangry a few hours later, all we
have to do is quickly reheat a leftover protein, scramble some eggs, or slice

What Can
a Rice Cooker
Do That My
Stovetop Can’t?
The greatest advantage of making rice in
an electric cooker versus the stovetop is
that you can press a button and walk
away, unlike a pot that you have to
babysit. Rice cookers can detect when the
water in the pot has been absorbed or
converted to steam, at which point they
either automatically shut off or keep the
rice warm for a while. So why do some
cookers cost $40 while others run upward
of $400? The short answer is that budget
models can generally only tell you when
there is no more water in the pot, whereas
higher-end “smart” cookers are equipped
to adjust for human error (say, if you
accidentally added too much liquid to the
pot—it’s able to adjust accordingly so
your grains don’t end up mushy).

MEDIUM LONG
COOKING

Brown Rice Barley

Red Quinoa
Farro
Spelt
Should I Spend? White Rice
For a pot of simple white rice, an
inexpensive model will do the job. If you
want to mix grains (see right), go for a SETTING
pricier model (our favorite: the Zojirushi White Rice White Rice
NS-TSC10, $160; amazon.com).
Obsessives are drawn to top-of-the -line
induction-heat models, but know that those
will set you back a few hundred bucks. White Rice White Rice

16  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GIACOMO GAMBINERI.
 Home – Par t y Tricks
Go Tropical T H I N K B A C K T O early
December, when your heart
When everyone’s was full of optimism as you
pictured all the festive treats
seasonal affective you’d bake this winter.
disorder kicks into Cinnamon buns every morning.
overdrive, vibrant Apple galettes every night.
Won’t we be warm and cozy!
tropical fruit is Well, guess what: Winter
the dessert you need is here, and the enthusiasm that
by ALISON ROMAN inspired you to lug your stand
mixer down from the top of the
fridge has been replaced with
a closetful of long underwear
and a heart full of despair.
18  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
But despair not, because a
trip to the tropics is just around
the corner, baby. That’s right:
hyper un-local (but very much
in-season) tropical fruit is
here to delight your dinner-
party guests and save you all
from your seasonal affective
disorders. Slices of tangy
pineapple, spears of ripe
mango, and rounds of neon-
pink “what-is-that?” (it’s dragon
fruit, and it’s awesome)
will transport you to a sunnier
place, forgetting all about
H O W YO U
SLICE IT
The vibe is
“sophisticated
dessert” not
“breakfast-buffet
fruit salad.”
Mango
Peel mango, then
slice the wide sides
off the pit (careful,
it’s slippery!). Cut
into knobby chunks
or thin wedges.
Pineapple
Using a large
serrated knife, slice
off the top and
bottom and then
the skin, making
sure you get all the
“eyes” (small holes).
Slice fruit off the
core into three
lobes, then cut into
long spears.
Papaya
These can be
peeled and cut into
long pieces, but
I don’t mind eating
around the skin
(plus, the colors!),
so I like to do rings:
Slice unpeeled
papaya into 1"-thick
rounds and scoop
out the seeds.
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
the gray nightmare that is
February. Serve a bowl of
lightly sweetened whipped
cream and Greek yogurt on
the side for dipping and
spooning over and even more
fun-having. This is the kind
of dessert that takes about as
much effort as you have to
give this month (i.e., minimal)—
plus it’s a great time of year
to embrace the part of you
that’s always wondered what
a horned melon tastes like,
so live that life!
P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
 H o m e – We ’re I n t o I t

Mortars, Masks, and More

All the important things in life that senior
food editor Andy Baraghani can’t live without

Watch me cook
through my favorite
recipes at youtube
.com/bonappetit

Mind the Grind Souped-Up Soy Sauce

I collect mortars and pestles I love this white tamari from
($38 for 8" granite set; grocery Nitto Jozo ($14; toirokitchen.com)
thai.com). I have 14 so far, from because it’s slightly sweeter and
Iran, Italy, Thailand, and more. less overpowering than the usual
I won’t use anything else to make stuff. I use it in stir-fries and
pestos or crush whole spices. as a simple seasoning for salads.

When Life Gives Currently Playing

You Whole Lemons… I’ve made people listen to Kurt Vile’s
I can’t stop making this whole-lemon Bottle It In ($24; matadorrecords
dressing that uses the skin, pith, .com) in the BA Test Kitchen on repeat.
and flesh. It shines splashed in salads and Because it’s a mix of psychedelic
drizzled over fish and chicken. Get the funk, rock, and nostalgia, the album
recipe at bonappetit.com/lemondressing. fits any mood I’m feeling.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHELSIE CRAIG

Quench in a Pinch Party Dishes

If I could afford it, I would use the I’m obsessed with these little cazuelas
Biologique Recherche Masque ($30 for set of four 4.5" dishes;
VIP 02 ($146; shoprescuespa.com) latienda.com) I bought during a trip to
every day. It’s my savior when Barcelona several years ago. I use them
I need an ultra-hydrating pick-me -up for marinated olives (plus a small one
but can’t escape to the spa. for the pits), dips, and other snacky things.

2 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 I L LU ST R AT I O N BY DA M I E N C U Y P E R S
 Home – Picky Eaters’ Club

Name a kid
who can resist fresh
out of the oven
garlic bread (yeah,
we thought so).

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GIACOMO GAMBINERI.

For the Love war stories of the obviously

of Beans
A saucy ragù and plenty of garlic
bread turned Deb Perelman’s
two self-proclaimed bean-haters
into devoted legume fans
2 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
PA R E N T S LO V E T O S H A R E
delicious things their children refuse to eat (such as
freshly baked apple pie in a flaky buttery crust, in my
three-year-old daughter’s case). Then there are the
foods they ask for (a “shandwich” the same child
requested for lunch) only to flat-out decline moments
later (“I no like shandwiches”). We joke about how
impossible it is that we could create a human being
who doesn’t like hot dogs or tater tots, but I would like
for the sake of this story to boldly go where I don’t
think enough essays about feeding kids have gone
before: I want to own my children’s pickiness.
P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
bonappetit.com/city-guides

eat like a local. even if you’re not.

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

 Home – Picky Eaters’ Club
Guys, I was a picky eater as a kid. I didn’t like meat.
I didn’t like cooked green vegetables. I didn’t like eggs.
I didn’t understand the purpose of cheese on things
that weren’t, say, pizza. I’ve come around to all of those
and then some; for me, learning to cook things the way
I wanted really helped, but mostly I just grew out of it.
Perhaps my kids will too.
Like their picky mom before them,
they haven’t taken to beans outside
of chili, and even then, hesitantly.
Of course, the idea that they might one day love the
dinner they’re currently despondent over is little con-
solation when I’m wiped out on a Tuesday night. We all
need a simple, efficient meal but have different ideas
about what constitutes one.
Before I had kids, I often turned canned beans into
dinner by tossing them with pasta, making a quick
soup or salad, or schmearing them on toast with a
fried egg. I could still turn them into almost anything…
if my kids would let me. But like their picky mom before
them, they haven’t taken to beans outside of chili, and
even then, hesitantly. We even ended up taking them
out of the mix entirely for a while.
The biggest breakthrough we’ve had in bean con-
sumption was when I began treating them like pasta.
A couple of years ago, I made a baked ziti–like dish in
which I used jumbo white beans instead of pasta, cook-
ing them in a vegetable-flecked marinara sauce, top-
ping with mozzarella and Parmesan, and broiling until
brown and bubbly. The kids were skeptical until I called
them “pizza beans”—and lo, somehow this was the
trick that finally got them to eat legumes for dinner.
But for nights when we’re short on time, I like to take
the best parts of the pizza beans—white beans, tomato
sauce, greens, and garlic—and give them a speedier
English-style beans-on-toast treatment.
A friend from the UK introduced me to this dorm-
friendly delight in college. The “recipe”: Warm a can
of baked beans and ladle over buttered toast. If you’re
feeling extra, you can finish it with cheese.
For this weeknight-friendly toast, I make a one-
skillet ragù with crumbled sausage, wilted greens, lots
of garlic, as many red pepper flakes as we can pull off,
and then canned white beans where we might other-
wise add pasta. For the toast, I use slices of buttery
garlic bread (the ultimate kid bait), and we finish it
with Parmesan (because we are always feeling extra).
It’s a bit more elaborate than the version I learned
in college—it takes 25 minutes, not five—but it’s also
a more rounded meal. It’s become such a hit that
it’s gone into our permanent rotation—and I get to
check another ingredient off the Never Feed Us
This list. I call that a triumph.
2 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
Weeknight Beans on Toast
This recipe will make more ragù than
4 S E RV I N G S
you need, but the leftovers can be repurposed as
a quick topper for pasta on another night. Nothing
beats the convenience of a bag of spinach, but
any green will work here. Try mustard greens, kale,
or collard greens.
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. sweet or hot Italian sausage,
casings removed
5 garlic cloves, 3 thinly sliced, 2 finely grated
½ tsp. dried oregano
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
3 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 5-oz. package baby spinach,
coarsely chopped
2 15.5-oz. cans white beans, rinsed
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 12" crusty Italian sub roll, cut in half
crosswise, split lengthwise, or 2 ciabatta
rolls, split lengthwise
1 oz. Parmesan or Pecorino, finely grated
Chopped parsley (for serving; optional)
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or high-sided
skillet over medium-high. Add sausage and press
down on it with a heatproof rubber spatula to
flatten slightly. Cook, undisturbed, until browned
underneath, about 4 minutes. Turn sausage over
and cook, undisturbed, until browned on the
other side, about 3 minutes. Break up sausage
into bite-size pieces with spatula. Add sliced
garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes (if using)
and cook, stirring, until garlic is beginning to
get golden around the edges, about 1 minute.
Carefully add tomatoes (beware of splatter!),
then 2½ tsp. salt and 1 cup water. Bring sauce
to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until
slightly reduced, 10–12 minutes. Mix in spinach
and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add beans
and cook until warmed through, about 3 minutes.
Taste ragù and season with more salt if needed.
Meanwhile, heat broiler. Melt butter in a small
saucepan over medium heat. Mix in grated garlic
and remaining ½ tsp. salt and cook until fragrant
and sizzling but garlic is not yet browned, about
30 seconds; remove from heat.
Arrange bread, cut side down, on a foil-lined
baking sheet and broil until golden brown, about
1 minute. Remove from broiler and turn bread
over. Brush untoasted sides of bread with garlic
butter and broil until evenly golden brown on
top, about 1 minute (keep watch; it will go fast).
Divide toast among plates. Ladle a generous
amount of ragù over and top with Parmesan and
parsley, if your kids will tolerate it.
D O A H E A D : Ragù can be made 3 days ahead.
Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat over medium-low.
Trademarks owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland

mϧձǻҝҴɧǻdžӇčҝ ®

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EXTRAORDINARY DETAIL
Indulge her senses with Fancy Feast® Medleys.
Accents of real vegetables, garden greens or cheese
bring culinary perfection to every bite.
Savings as irresistible as our recipes.
Visit FancyFeast.com/Medleys for your coupon.
 Home – Super Bowl Special

Game Day Dips

You know the saying, “Give the people what
they want”? Well, what they really want is one of
these creamy, irresistible party-ready dips

Creamy
Kimchi Dip
Squeeze 2 cups kimchi
over a small bowl to
release excess liquid;
discard liquid. Finely
chop kimchi. Cut 8 oz.
room-temperature
cream cheese into big
pieces and place in
a medium bowl. Mash

RECIPES: AMIEL STANEK (CREAMY KIMCHI DIP); KAT BOYTSOVA (SPICY CHEDDAR CHEESE DIP); RICK MARTINEZ (FRENCH ONION DIP). FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME.
1 cup sour cream
into cream cheese
with a rubber spatula a
few spoonfuls at
a time until combined.
Mix in kimchi and
4½ tsp. low-sodium
soy sauce. Season dip
with salt and pepper.
Do ahead: Dip can
be made 1 day ahead.
Cover and chill.
Makes about 3½ cups

French Onion Dip

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a small skillet
over medium. Cook 1 finely chopped medium onion,
2 finely grated garlic cloves, and 2 thyme sprigs,
stirring occasionally, until onion is deep golden brown Spicy Cheddar
and very soft, 35–40 minutes; don’t rush it. Discard thyme Cheese Dip
and let cool. Mix caramelized onion, 1 thinly sliced
Blend 2 cups finely
small shallot, 1 cup sour cream, ¼ cup finely chopped
grated cheddar, ½ cup
chives, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl;
mayonnaise, ¼ cup
season with salt and pepper. Let sit 30 minutes.
sour cream, 2 oz.
Top with more sliced chives. Do ahead: Dip can be made
room-temperature
1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Makes about 1½ cups
cream cheese, ¼ tsp.
cayenne pepper, and
¼ tsp. smoked paprika
in a food processor until
B E YO N D smooth. Transfer to a
THE CHIP medium bowl; sprinkle
You’ve got dip—now with more cayenne.
you just need all Do ahead: Dip can be
kinds of crunchy things Celery Little Gem Carrot Thinly sliced Buttery made 3 days ahead.
sticks or endive coins beets crackers Cover and chill.
to dunk into it. Try:
Makes about 2½ cups

2 6  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 Make Sargento caramelized leek and prosciutto pizza

®
REAL CHEESE PEOPLE

KNOW A
REAL
SHRED
WHEN THEY SEE IT.

NEW

and that’s because it actually is.

Sargento® Shreds always start with
blocks of 100% real, natural cheese,
and it doesn’t get realer than that.

*No significant difference has been shown between milk derived from rBST treated
and non-rBST treated cows
**Our cheese is made from milk that does not contain antibiotics © 2019 Sargento Foods Inc.
 Home – Family Meal

The Art
of the
Meal Plan
by DAV I D
TA M A R K I N

How did I become

one of those people
who does a new year,
new you challenge?
It was an accident.
Three years ago, as the
editor of Epicurious,
I decided to cook
three meals a day,
every day, in January.
I tracked my progress
(okay, humblebragged)
on Instagram using the
hashtag #COOK90.
And before I knew it,
more than 150,000
people were cooking
along with me. Now
the COOK90 challenge
is a book (COOK90:
The 30-Day Plan for
Faster, Healthier,
Happier Meals) filled
with tricks, meal plans,
and time-saving
recipes like these.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI.
Each of the
recipes in
this section:

Takes under
45 minutes
—
Has 10
ingredients
or fewer
(not including
LEMONY salt, pepper,
SALMON AND and extra-virgin
SPICED olive oil)
CHICKPEAS —
P. 3 0 Requires no
special gadgets
or appliances

2 8  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

can’t cook. no problem.

 Home – Family Meal

Lemony Salmon
and Spiced Chickpeas
Everything’s better in bowl form,
and this salmon dish flavored
with a garlicky za’atar dressing
is no exception
4 S E RV I N G S
1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
1 1½-lb. salmon fillet, preferably
skin-on
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Freshly ground black pepper
1 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed,
patted dry
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp. za’atar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 cups baby arugula or baby
spinach
4 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt

1. Place a rack in lower third of

oven; preheat to 300°. Toss lemon
slices in a large bowl with a drizzle
of oil. Arrange slices in an even
layer on a rimmed baking sheet.
Set salmon on lemons. Season
salmon all over with kosher salt and
pepper, then drizzle and rub with
some oil. Roast until salmon is
just barely opaque in the middle,
12–17 minutes, depending on
thickness. If you like your salmon
well-done, cook it a few minutes
longer, but keep in mind that
you risk the chance it will dry out.
Let salmon cool, then flake into
medium-size pieces with a fork.
2. Meanwhile, bring chickpeas,
garlic, za’atar, and remaining
½ cup oil to a bare simmer in
a small skillet over medium-low
heat. Cook, stirring occasionally
and reducing heat if needed,
10 minutes. Stir in ½ tsp. kosher
salt (less if your za’atar is salty)
and remove skillet from heat.
3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
chickpeas to a medium bowl,
leaving oil behind. Whisk lemon
juice into oil; taste dressing and
season with more kosher salt and
a few grinds of pepper if needed.
4. Toss arugula in a large bowl
with 1 tsp. dressing. Divide
among bowls along with radishes,
chickpeas, and salmon (and
lemons if desired); drizzle with
more dressing. Sprinkle with
sea salt and more pepper.

3 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
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Introduction by Taylor Antrim

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 Use extra salsa verde
to dress a bright slaw
for your steak sandwich.
It would also be great
spooned over fish.

3 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
 Leftovers, Only Better
Making extra steak tonight
means a stress-free dinner tomorrow,
a little strategy we call nextovers

DINNER TONIGHT

Pan-Roasted Steak
with Crispy Broccoli
4 S E RV I N G S P LU S L E F T OV E R S

2 large heads of broccoli (about 2½ lb. total)

6 Tbsp. plus ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup finely chopped shallot or red onion
¼ cup fresh lime juice
3 12-oz. sirloin, boneless rib-eye, or
New York strip steaks (about 1¼" thick)
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1 cup finely chopped cilantro
2 Tbsp. rinsed capers, coarsely chopped
½ jalapeño, finely chopped
COOK ONCE

1. Place racks in upper and lower thirds of T

EA
oven; preheat to 425°. Cut broccoli into large
florets with some stalk attached. Divide between TWICE
2 rimmed baking sheets lined with parchment
DINNER TOMORROW 1. Slice steak against the
or foil. Drizzle each with 3 Tbsp. olive oil; season
grain into as-thin-as-you-can-
generously with salt and some pepper. Toss to Steak Sandwiches get-them strips (this is much
combine. Roast, tossing and rotating baking sheets
with Fennel Slaw easier to do when the steak
halfway through, until crisp around the edges
MAKES 2 is cold). Transfer to a large
and charred in spots, 35–40 minutes. Season with
bowl and let sit at room
more salt and pepper if desired.
1 chilled leftover steak temperature while you make
2. Meanwhile, mix shallot, lime juice, and ½ tsp. 1 small fennel bulb, very the slaw. If you have time,
salt in a small bowl. Set aside. thinly sliced, plus slice the steak before you
coarsely torn fronds start cooking; an hour is ideal
3. Season steaks generously all over with salt
½ small red onion, very to completely take off the chill.
and pepper, pressing to adhere. Heat a dry large
skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. thinly sliced, rinsed 2. Toss sliced fennel, red
Swirl vegetable oil in pan to coat. Pat steaks dry; ¼ cup leftover cilantro onion, salsa verde, ½ tsp.
cook 2 steaks, undisturbed, until undersides salsa verde salt, and 1 Tbsp. fennel fronds
are browned, about 5 minutes. Turn; cook until ½ tsp. kosher salt, in a large bowl to combine.
other sides are browned and an instant-read plus more Season slaw with a few grinds
thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers Freshly ground black of pepper and toss again.
130° for medium-rare, about 5 minutes. Turn pepper
1 sandwich-size piece 3. Spread cut sides of
steaks onto fat cap and cook until browned, about
focaccia with 2 Tbsp.
PANROASTED STEAK RECIPE BY MINDY FOX

3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest focaccia, split

lengthwise, toasted mayonnaise each; transfer to
10 minutes. Wipe out skillet, leaving just enough
4 Tbsp. mayonnaise plates. Divide steak between
fat to coat pan. Repeat with remaining steak.
bread and crown each
4. Mix cilantro, capers, jalapeño, and remaining sandwich with a big handful
¾ cup olive oil into reserved shallot mixture. of slaw. (You may have a
Reserve 1 steak and ¼ cup cilantro salsa verde small amount left—nibble on
for making the Steak Sandwiches another night. it or serve on the side.) Top
Thinly slice remaining steaks against the grain. sandwiches with more fennel
Top with salsa verde and serve with broccoli. fronds and sprinkle with salt.

F E B R U A R Y 2 019  3 3
 Home – Family Meal

Tomato-Braised 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

Rotisserie Chicken
Give a store-bought bird a
new identity by simmering it in
a quick tomato-bacon braise
4 S E RV I N G S
4 oz. bacon (about 4 slices), sliced
crosswise ¼" thick
2 shallots, thinly sliced
⅓ cup dry white wine
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary
1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 2½-lb. rotisserie chicken, cut into
8 pieces
1 bunch curly kale, ribs and stems
removed, leaves torn into
bite-size pieces

1. Heat oil in a large Dutch

oven or skillet with a lid over
medium. Cook bacon, stirring
occasionally, until starting
to brown, about 5 minutes.
One more ingredient you might
Add shallots and cook, stirring want to add to this meal?
occasionally, until shallots are Crust y bread for sopping up
softened and bacon is brown the rich tomato sauce.
and crisp, 8–10 minutes.
2. Increase heat to high and add
wine, garlic, and rosemary to pot.
Cook, stirring, until wine is reduced
by half, about 1 minute. Add
tomatoes along with their juices,
broth, salt, and red pepper flakes
and bring liquid to a boil. Reduce
heat to medium; nestle in chicken,
skin side up. Top with kale, cover
pot, and cook until kale is wilted,
5–7 minutes. Stir kale into sauce
and continue to cook, uncovered,
until chicken is warmed through,
about 5 minutes more.

RECIPE BY ANNA STOCKWELL

3 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
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A DV E R T I S E M E N T

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Set your table with warm, welcoming touches.
Charming place settings, inviting accents and rich,
rustic character make each guest’s seat feel special.

Search & shop at homedepot.com

Farmhouse Dining
 A DV E R T I S E M E N T

FROM PREP TO PRESENTATION

No matter what’s on the menu, The Home Depot has kitchen tools and tabletop essentials you can trust.

Lodge 6 Qt. Enamel Cast Iron Dutch Oven KitchenAid Professional 600 Series Shun Classic 10-Piece Chef’s Knife Set
Red. 301056327 6 Qt. Stand Mixer Ebony & Wood. 303145580
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ENTERTAINING MADE EASY

1 2 3
MAKE THE FOOD SE T UP A DRINK STATION DIM THE LIGHTS
IN ADVANCE A well-placed cocktail cart keeps Ambience is everything. Candles,
Take the stress away from the guests out of the kitchen and relieves lanterns and low lighting make for
big day by prepping and cooking the host of bartending duties. an enchanting autumn evening.
ahead of time.

VISIT HOMEDEPOT.COM FOR MORE INSPIR ATION.

 Pe a k To ma to
E P. 18 0

On Sal t E P. 15 9

E P. 174
It ’s A l l I n t he V ib e
L i q uid G ol d
E P. 151

E P. 172
The I c e C re a m Ma n
Pu t an Egg o n It
E P. 10 7

Ac id Tr ip E P. 13 0

P i z za , P i z za !
E P. 173

Rice 2 .0 E P. 161

. . . P L U S 19 6 O T H E R E P I S O D E S A N D C O U N T I N G .

Down l o ad i t w he reve r you g e t yo u r pod c a st s.

 WILL CRUISE RETRO GLASSES
FOR FOOD ARE BACK
p. 42 Go here . Eat this. Drink that. Righ t now. p. 46

Come to Remedy
House in Buffalo
for the lattes; stay
for the cocktails.

The
Night
Shift
As coffee shops
extend their hours
and expand their
offerings to serve
wine, beer, and
cocktails, our favorite
place to start the
day has become the
best place to end it

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY F E B R U A R Y 2 019  3 9
 A w a y – Th e N i g h t S h i f t

DAY T U R N S T O . . . CHOOSE
YOUR OWN
ADVENTURE
Here are some of our Ask a
favorite coffee shop
hybrids in the country— Barista, er…
and what to order when
you’re there
Bartender
Angie Thompson,
GET THE WINE a drink maker at
Methodical Coffee Methodical Coffee,
Greenville, SC talks shop

The Order: Why turn the coffee

Tart Scarpetta Frico shop into a bar?
Lambrusco Wine is like coffee’s
cool older cousin.
GET THE BEER
The deeper we get
Figure 8 Coffee into it, the more we
Purveyors learn about terroir,
Austin
which helps us be
The Order: more well-rounded
Live Oak pilsner coffee professionals.

GET ANY THING Was there also an

Remedy House economic reason?
Buffalo Totally. It’s key to
. . . N I G H T A T E I T H E R /O R I N P O R T L A N D, O R . expand so we’re not
The Order: pigeonholed serving
Amaro, cocktails, beer, lattes. This guarantees
S O M E M I G H T S AY I spend too much But this movement is also about the wine. We love this more job security.
time in coffee shops. And others might money. “Having high alcohol margins coffee shop for all the
argue I spend too much time in bars. allows us to keep our coffee more reasons. What’s the
Whether or not they’re right, I’m happy affordable and get customers in the response been?
GET THE AMARO
to say I’m cutting that number in half. door more than once a day,” says One of our most
W/N W/N loyal customers is
Why? How? Not because I’ll be drinking Andrew Trautman, one of the owners
Philadelphia
fewer cortados or saisons, but because of Remedy House in Buffalo. a guy who works at
local beers, natural wines, and dialed-in After having an exceptional 8 a.m. The Order: a nearby Starbucks.
cocktails are cropping up all over coffee cortado the last time I was at Remedy Whatever the He chooses to come
shop menus. Now the espresso joints House, I understood that. The minute I bartender’s into to a coffee shop
I already love are turning into my walked out, I was thinking about coming that night during his breaks to
preferred spots to grab a drink at night. back for a post-dinner amaro. And drink some wine!
G E T A C O C KTA I L
A commitment to quality booze mirrors probably a glass of light-bodied red. That’s evidence that
the devotion to single-origin beans But how does this dual identity happen Either/Or we’re redefining what
Portland, OR
sold at third-wave coffee joints, so it’s exactly? And who else is making it work? a coffee shop can be.
no surprise that those who put care into Introducing the new breed of coffee shop. The Order:
ELYSE INAMINE
choosing organic Kenyan coffee are Actually, let’s call them coffee bars. The chocolaty Run
geeking out over biodynamic Riesling.  ALEX DELANY Away with Me

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ALVARADO. ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI (PREVIOUS PAGE).

When a Coffee Shop Goes from Dawn to Dusk
How Remedy House breaks it all down. b y J E S S E S PA R K S

M ost popular Le ng th o f L ig h t
THE SHIFT
dri n k o rde r? time s pent? s i tuati on?

Drip coffee None! Floor-to-

(duh), closely In and out,
ceiling windows
followed usually a few
DAY let in crisp
by lattes minutes
natural light

A few hours, Dimmed

Natural with people overhead lights
NIGHT wines from grabbing an and candles on
Meinklang after-work drink tables for a
or snack moodier vibe

4 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
 ADVERTISEMENT

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March 21–24, 2019

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 Awa y – The R e ad

Pastr y chefs aboard

the Norwegian Escape
plate thousands of
desserts each night.

We’re Gonna
Need Some
Bigger Pants
Cruise kitchens don’t sleep.
So for 24 hours on this enormous
floating playground neither did I
by AMANDA SHAPIRO
I T W A S A L R E A D Y cold On this ship, 29,806 beers,
in New York when I boarded the 5,500 bottles of wine, and over
Norwegian Escape, one of the 1,000 handles of liquor get
largest cruise ships in the world. drunk each week. The first bar we
Destination: Bahamas, where come across is two-deep already.
I’d heard the water was bluer
than Bradley Cooper’s eyes. But 12 : 4 5 P. M .
Laura, my photographer, and For lunch there’s a massive
I were here for one thing: to see buffet: pizza, burgers, pasta.
how 5,800 people got fed (and The Escape serves 22,000 meals
fed, and fed) 24 hours a day. daily out of 18 kitchens, which
I will call galleys from now on
11 : 16 A . M . because, as I was corrected
The drinking starts early: mojitos, many times, that’s what you call
rum punch, piña coladas. a kitchen on a ship.
4 : 47 P. M .
The largest galley is bigger than
a basketball court. Cooks flip
massive steaks on a grill the
length of a train car. Pastry chefs
pour chocolate onto hundreds
of caramel tarts. The dish pit is a
dish Grand Canyon.
A dozen cooks are gathered
by a long counter lined with filet
mignon and bruschetta. One by
one they present each dish to the
executive chef, who tastes with a
tiny plastic spoon, nodding as he
works his way down the line.
8 : 18 P. M .
Scoping out dinner options,
we realize that every restaurant
is also a show. At Teppanyaki,
cooks juggle knives over hot grills
while making fried rice and
singing “Hooked on a Feeling.”
At the Supper Club, singers pass
pints of beer at the beginning of
the show. At Moderno, servers
shave giant skewers of Brazilian-
style meats onto our plates until
we literally show them a red card
and beg them to stop.
10 : 2 4 P. M .
Most of the restaurants on the
Escape close at 10:30 p.m., but
O’Sheehan’s is open 24 hours.
Smack in the center of the ship
next to the slot machines, it
reminds me of the Irish pubs of
my suburban youth: dark wood,
shamrocks on the walls, great
chicken wings. Regulars refer to
it as O’Shay’s, and since I’ll
be extremely regular here for the
next 12 hours, I will too. Here,
night cooks crank out plates
of prime rib (2,800 pounds
per week) and baskets of wings
(4,300 pounds per week).

4 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY

6 MORE
WAYS T O
CRUISE FOR
FOOD
Celebrity Cruises
Let’s be clear: Less isn’t
more. Twenty-nine different
dining options is more.
Especially when one of them
is a four-course meal
featuring roasted lobster
and filet mignon—guided
by, you know, a tiny virtual
reality chef.
Princess Cruises
Recently overhauled by
wine genius Doug Frost
(he’s both a Master
Sommelier and a Master of
Wine—one of only four in
the world to hold both titles),
the expansive onboard
wine list is organized by
flavor profile so you can be
the captain of your own
drinking voyage.
Holland America Line
Everyone loves a squad:
the Avengers, the Mighty
Ducks...and now
the Culinary Council, an
international chef dream
team that includes a French-
trained chocolatier and
a Japanese sushi master.
2 : 07 A . M .
Laura down. I’ll have to win
this night on my own. A young
couple comes in, sweaty from
dancing, to feed each other bites
of pasta. Another man alternates
between eating a burger and
napping. I write in my notebook,
“Is the whole world drunk?”
3:00 A.M.
O’Shay’s never closes, but it
does stop serving booze at three.
So now it’s just me and the
cleaning staff, who swoop in out
of nowhere like Mary Poppins,
vacuuming under my feet.
3:28 A.M.
I’m not tired, but I am bored.
I read the daily cruise-letter:
Future activities include Mr. Sexy
Legs and Guess the Weight of
the 3-D Crystal. I think about how
everything has a start and an
end, all these activities, even life
itself. Only O’Shay’s is forever.
4:08 A.M.
I must have dozed off. Suddenly
all the tables have coffee
mugs. Bacon smells come from
the kitchen. The buffet staff
cracks eggs (61,200 per week)
and brews coffee (3,000 pounds
per week).
5:45 A.M.
A guy in a fleece vest sits down
and orders eggs and toast.
I nearly whoop because that
means it’s morning. I win
O’Sheehan’s. I win at cruising.
6 : 31 A . M .
I return to my stateroom to watch
the sunrise. Housekeeping has
left an origami elephant made of
towels. I take selfies with him and
wonder if I’ll ever sleep again.
10 : 3 2 A . M .
I wake up with my shoes on,
spooning the elephant, who is
now just two crumpled towels.
Upstairs, breakfast has been
going for five hours. Lunch prep
is in full swing. Restaurants are
getting deep-cleaned for dinner.
On deck, sun worshipers have
taken their positions, and barflies
are ordering their first piña
coladas. While I slept, thousands
of people ate and drank and
ate some more. I get up, brush
my teeth, and join them.

The cast of the onboard musical
eats at one long table. At the
bar, couples are buying drinks
for other couples and becoming
best friends.
12 : 31 A . M .
I don’t usually drink caffeine, so
I figure a coffee and a Coke will
keep me up for the night. I am
correct. We talk to newlyweds in
matching “Wifey” and “Hubby”
shirts and a guy we call Dancing
ILLUSTRATION BY GIACOMO GAMBINERI
Crystal Cruises
Take a cruise back in time
with one ship’s new
Rat Pack–themed Stardust
Supper Club, where
you can dress in sparkles
and chow down to live
renditions of Frank Sinatra.
Windstar Cruises
Prefer a bit more of a DIY
situation? Grab your
walking shoes for guided
market crawls, wine tastings,
and recipe demonstrations
led by James Beard–
recognized chefs and
sommeliers.
Royal Caribbean Cruises
You’d have to eat 15 meals

with Corona Man because he is an hour for 24 hours straight

always doing exactly that.
1:45 A.M.
Laura threatens to go to bed, so
I ply her with nachos and beer.
There are a few hopeful singles at
the bar and a group of teenage
boys taking turns spraying soda
out of their noses. Laura swears
she’ll make it through.
(no sleeping!) to try all of
the 350 dishes the newest
and largest ship serves
daily. We did the math. But
don’t worry, there’s a robot
bartender slinging two
drinks a minute to help you
wash it all down.
Clockwise from top lef t : The Norwegian Escape in the Bahamas; a
bowl of pork-belly ramen at Food Republic; t wo scoops from the onboard
gelato shop; pasta with shrimp for dinner in the Manhattan Room

F E B R U A R Y 2 019  4 3
 Away – Highly Recommend

Eat with Your Hands, Drink at a Gas Station

Our very opinionated picks for this month’s finest places to eat and drink

How far will I drive

for beautiful pasta?
My most recent trek
was an hour from
Philly to the college
Deputy Editor town of West Chester
JULIA KRAMER to see what Pizzeria
on Bianco alum Anthony
Andiario had on offer
The Most at his restaurant,
Andiario . Here are
Amazing a few of those
Pasta Shapes perfect little pastas.

CAOMBA

The rolled
dough is trimmed
and pinched to
resemble a dove.

C H I TA R R A

Each strand
is pushed through
a guitar-like
chitarra tool.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (BAVEL); JASON VARNEY (PASTA); JESSICA ATTIE (SUNRISE MINI MART). ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAUREN TAMAKI.
NICCHI
Editorial Diners brave L.A. 1. Get your head 3. Go freestyle.
Assistant It’s a three -
traffic for the in the game. Add tahini, pickles, cornered priest’s
ALIZA
hummus at Bavel, Locate your napkin and amba sauce hat, obviously.
ABARBANEL
chefs Ori Menashe and size up the made with
and Genevieve fleet of condiments. fermented mango
Gergis’ new hot and habanero.
spot. But it’s the 2. Prepare to get
slow-roasted lamb messy. The meat 4. Bat cleanup.
neck shawarma, an is so tender that Sop up those pools CORZET TI
on
imposing on-the - you can use just of juice. Fight A hand-carved
How to Eat bone cut, that steals the laffa bread your tablemates stamp makes an
the show and to nudge the meat for the last bite. impression (literally).
Bavel’s has mystified all— off the bone and There’s no judgment
Shawarma until now. into your mouth. in love and lamb.

The two biggest concerns I had from a regular gas station—chips,

when I recently moved from NYC
to Austin were where to get my hair
cut and where to buy my wine.
Thankfully, a friend recommended
a guy named Tim Beard, no joke,
Editor at Large for the former. The wine proved
ANDREW KNOWLTON more difficult. Then I heard about
on Sam Rozani and his gas station
called Sunrise Mini Mart (a.k.a.
The Best Little Wine Sunrise Bottle Shop). Sunrise
Shop in Texas sells all the things you’d expect
smokes, and that new Gatorade
flavor. But it also has one of
the craziest and most impressive
selections of low-intervention wine
(cult favorite Bichi), craft beer
(Spindletap, shout-out to Houston),
and sake (Yamada Shoten’s
Everlasting Roots is as good as it
looks). You’ll still find people filling
their cars with gas, but I’m filling
my trunk with hard-to-find booze.

4 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
 Healthy cooking starts with

Available at select stores and online

Find more collections and colors at bedbathandbeyond.com/epicurious

Epicurious is a registered trademark of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. Copyright © 2019
 Away – Spot ted

NYC ’s Undercote
sourced much
of its glassware
collection (like
this ’80s-era Smurf
tumbler) from
yard sales and
thrif t shops.

FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY
 Glass from
These Botswana the Past
Botanical glasses from Bartenders are scouring
Nel Lusso look vintage
but are available antique stores and raiding
on Amazon ($40 for their parents’ cabinets
a set of four).
for retro decal glasses,
and so are we
b y H I L A RY C A D I GA N

R E M E M B E R T H O S E J E L LY
jars with cartoons that doubled as
juice glasses after you used
up all the jam? Man, those were
cool. And we’re not the only ones
feeling nostalgic. Kitschy-on-
purpose vintage glassware is
appearing at bars and restaurants
across the country, from L.A.’s
Ronan to Denver’s Safta. “Decal
glasses take me back to Saturday
morning cartoons,” says Victoria
James, beverage director at
NYC’s Undercote. In New Orleans,
Turkey and the Wolf boasts
Camp Snoopy tumblers from
McDonald’s and Return of the Jedi
juice glasses. At Brooklyn’s Rita,
owner Mary Ellen Amato says her
vintage safari glasses are the
cheapest yet most loved purchase
she’s ever made: “The woman
at the thrift shop was so thrilled to
get rid of the ‘ugly’ cups that
she threw in a free James Taylor
cassette tape as a thank-you.”

F E B R U A R Y 2 019  4 7
Our stars are still out in the morning.
 Yes, you can There’s

ferment turmeric
in your T-shirt.
t h aT. p. 78
p. 84

Beauty products also

grow on trees.
Just a dropperful of
h e l lo,
shea CBD
helps the day’s
butter. headlines
p. 77 go down easy.
p . 76
 The 40-person line
at your local

#bowl salad
food “c o n c e p t ”
p. 62 is not going away.
(It moves fast,
we promise!)
p. 72

HOW

Wellness
Took Over
D

T
H L
E R
 W O
photograph by ALEX LAU
Y E S There
Are

BRUSSELS
S P R O U T S
In Your

TACOS
Whether she’s dreaming up a Mexican-inspired take on a bagel with lox
(see Arctic Char Tostadas, page 54) or blitzing a batch of avocado water,
28-year-old chef D A N I E L A S O T O  I N N E S is making Mexican food that is
uniquely hers: healthy without being ascetic, grounded in tradition without
being beholden to it. These are the recipes from her day-to-night café
Atla that we wish we could eat for every single meal

 photographs by ALEX LAU 

5♦2
 R , P. 5 4
UT BUTTE
P EAN
ICY
SP
H
IT
W
S
CO
TA
T
U
O
R
P
S
S
EL
SS
U
BR

The ingenious
combo of peanut
butter, fish sauce,
and brussels
sprouts two ways
(crunchy-raw
and crispy pan-
fried) makes for
a wholly satisfying
meat-free taco.
 DANIEL A SOTOINNES ISN’T THE KIND OF CHEF who glorifies the idea of
spending every waking minute at work. This alone is remarkable by restaurant stan-
dards but even more so considering she runs three kitchens (Atla and Cosme in
NYC and a forthcoming spot in L.A.). She meditates every morning. Most days she
goes for a run or does yoga before work. She loads up on fish and vegetables to
balance out all the dishes she tastes at her restaurants, but she never denies herself
dessert. She actually gets enough sleep. The same well-roundedness that defines
her personal life reveals itself in her cooking as well. Two-tone enchiladas are rich
in flavor but not heavy; fatty arctic char and farmer’s cheese are countered by
a bright and light vinaigrette. This philosophy is what draws cooks to her kitchens,
places where the staff breaks out into spontaneous group squats and stretches, and
where most nights end by blasting Queen’s “I Want to Break Free.” And it’s what
draws diners—the BA team included—to her restaurants.  C H R I ST I N A C H A E Y

Roasted Winter Squash
with Kale Pipian
Soto-Innes makes this green
4 S E RV I N G S
sauce with hoja santa, a robust aromatic
Mexican herb, but any hardy green will
work (we call for kale).
1 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas),
divided
3 lb. mixed winter squash pieces
(such as 1"-thick delicata rounds,
1"-thick kabocha wedges,
and/or quartered honeynut),
seeds removed
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
¼ white onion, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, crushed
8 oz. tomatillos (about 4), husks
removed, rinsed
1 small bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and
stems removed, leaves torn
2 small serrano chiles
Flaky sea salt
Cilantro leaves with tender stems
and lime wedges (for serving)
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pumpkin
seeds on a rimmed baking sheet until
lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Let cool.
Increase oven temperature to 425°.
Toss squash pieces and oil on another
rimmed baking sheet to coat; season with
kosher salt. Roast, tossing occasionally,
until browned and tender, 30–40 minutes.
Bring onion, garlic, tomatillos, and
2 cups water to a simmer in a large
saucepan over medium-high. Cook until
tomatillos are almost tender, about
5 minutes. Add kale and cook just until
Transfer onion mixture to a blender
with a slotted spoon; reserve liquid.
Add charred chiles and ¾ cup pumpkin
seeds to blender and purée, adding
reserved liquid as needed to get things
moving, until a smooth, pourable sauce
forms. Season pipian with kosher salt.
Divide squash among plates. Drizzle
4 S E RV I N G S
dressing and a spicy nutty sauce in this
surprising but winning taco.
2 Tbsp. Aleppo-style pepper or
1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper
flakes
¾ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts
plus ¼ cup crushed
Kosher salt
1 lb. brussels sprouts, preferably
small ones, trimmed, divided
1 cup vegetable oil
¼ cup Salty-Sour Vinaigrette
(see recipe, p. 58)
8 6" corn tortillas
¼ cup finely chopped white onion
Sliced avocado, sliced serrano
chiles, cilantro leaves with tender
stems, flaky sea salt, lime wedges
(for serving)
Purée red pepper and ¾ cup whole
peanuts in a food processor until a smooth
batches, being careful not to overcrowd
the pan, until browned and crisp, about
5 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper
towels to drain, then add to sliced brussels
sprouts. Drizzle with vinaigrette and toss
to coat; season with kosher salt.
To serve, heat a medium skillet over
medium-high. Working one at a time, cook
Great tostadas vary, but
4 S E RV I N G S
their composition—crispy base, creamy
topping, substantial protein—is the same.
¼ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
½ cup farmer’s cheese or
whole-milk ricotta
Kosher salt
1 8-oz. boneless arctic char or
salmon fillet
Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling)
¼ cup Salty-Sour Vinaigrette
(see recipe, p. 58)
4 4"–6" tostadas
Cilantro leaves with tender stems,
sliced serrano chiles, capers,
and lime wedges (for serving)
Preheat oven to 300°. Mix lemon zest
into cheese in a small bowl; season with
salt and set aside. Place fish on a rimmed
baking sheet and drizzle very lightly
with oil; season with salt. Bake until just
PHOTOGRAPH BY DANIELLE LEVITT

wilted and bright green, about 1 minute.
Let onion mixture cool in pan until warm.
Char chiles over the flame of a
gas burner, turning occasionally, until
blackened and slightly softened, about
1 minute (or, arrange chiles on a
rimmed baking sheet and use broiler).
butter forms, about 2 minutes. Season with
kosher salt and scrape into a small bowl.
Very thinly slice one-fourth of brussels
sprouts; transfer to a medium bowl. Cut
remaining brussels sprouts in half. Heat
oil in a medium skillet over medium-high.
Shallow-fry halved brussels sprouts in
opaque throughout, about 5 minutes
for char and 8–10 minutes for salmon.
Remove from oven and break apart into
large flakes. Drizzle with vinaigrette.
Divide reserved cheese mixture among
tostadas. Top with fish, then cilantro, chiles,
and capers. Serve with lime wedges.

5♦4 I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY ST E P H A N I E D EA N G E L I S
 S

A
D
TA
S
TO
R
A
CH
IC
CT
AR

Avocado Water
Cut 1 small ripe avocado in half, remove
pit, and scoop flesh into a blender; add
5 Tbsp. lime juice, 3 Tbsp. sugar, a tiny
pinch of salt, ½ cup ice cubes, and
2 cups cold water. Purée until smooth.
Blend in another splash of water if drink is
too thick. Makes about 3 cups
 RO
AS
TE
D
W
IN
TE
R
S
Q
U
A

S
H
W
IT
H
K
A
LE
PI
PI
A
N
,
P.
54

This bright green

style of mole is
made by blending
pumpkin seeds into
a smooth paste
(kind of like how
pine nuts work in
pesto). The oil in the
seeds adds body
and rich flavor to
the sauce, which
can also wake up
other simply
roasted vegetables
such as sweet
potatoes or carrots.
ENC
HIL
AD
AS
DI
VO
RC
IA
D
A
S
,
P

.
5
8
Almost all the
components of
these stunning
enchiladas can be
made ahead. Here’s
how to pull
it off: Poach the
chicken, make both
sauces, and
prepare the crème
fraîche topping in
advance. The day
of, reheat the
sauces and chicken,
fry the tortillas,
and assemble.

57
Salty-Sour Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS The fish sauce
will smell potent while you reduce it,
but the quantity of vinegar in the finished
vinaigrette means it won’t taste fishy.
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
¼ cup sliced scallions
1 ½" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
Kosher salt
Heat a small saucepan over medium.
When hot, pour in 1 Tbsp. fish sauce.
It should bubble up vigorously and then
get thicker and slightly darker, about
30 seconds. Repeat with remaining fish
sauce, incorporating 1 Tbsp. at a time.
Carefully add vinegar (it may spatter),
then transfer mixture to a small bowl; let
cool. Stir in scallions and ginger. Taste
and season with salt.
D O A H E A D : Vinaigrette can be made
1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
Enchiladas Divorciadas
To simplify, choose just one
4 S E RV I N G S
of the sauces and make a double recipe.
You’ll end up with a harmonious batch of
enchiladas verdes or rojas, accordingly.
S A LS A V E R D E
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
½ white onion, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
3 small serrano chiles, halved
lengthwise, seeds removed if
desired
12 oz. tomatillos (6–7), husks
removed, rinsed, halved
1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems
Kosher salt
S A LS A R OJA
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
¼ white onion, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 guajillo chiles, seeds removed
2 dried chiles de árbol (optional;
omit for a milder sauce)
3 plum tomatoes, quartered
Kosher salt
E N C H I L A DA ASS E M B LY
1 3½–4-lb. chicken
6 bay leaves
1 tsp. allspice berries
Kosher salt
½ cup crème fraîche
⅓ cup crumbled queso fresco
½ cup vegetable oil
12 6" corn tortillas
Sliced white onion (for serving)
S A LS A V E R D E Heat oil in a large
saucepan over medium. Cook onion and
garlic, stirring occasionally, until starting
to soften, about 5 minutes. Add chiles and
cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is
lightly browned and vegetables are soft,
about 5 minutes. Add tomatillos and cook,
stirring occasionally, just until starting to
soften, about 3 minutes. Add cilantro and
1½ cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce
heat, and simmer until tomatillos soften,
20–25 minutes. Let cool slightly; transfer
to a blender. Purée until smooth; season
with salt. Return salsa verde to saucepan
and keep warm until ready to use.
S A LS A R OJA Heat oil in a large saucepan
over medium. Cook onion and garlic,
stirring occasionally, until starting to
soften, about 5 minutes. Add both chiles,
tomatoes, and 1½ cups water. Bring
to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until
tomatoes and chiles soften, 20–25
minutes. Let cool slightly; transfer to a
blender. Purée until smooth; season
with salt. Return salsa roja to saucepan
and keep warm until ready to use.
E N C H I L A DA ASS E M B LY Place chicken,
bay leaves, and allspice in a small pot
and pour in water to cover by 1"; season
lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce
heat, and simmer gently until chicken is
nearly cooked through (an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest part
of chicken should register 145°–150°),
20–25 minutes from the time water starts
simmering. Let chicken cool at least 1 hour
(it should be just warm). If you have the
time, cover and chill up to 12 hours.
Remove chicken from broth. Pull meat
from bones and shred; discard skin and
bones. Place meat in a large saucepan
and pour in just enough broth to cover.
Set aside any remaining broth for another
use. Gently reheat chicken over medium-
low; season with salt.
Meanwhile, mix crème fraîche and
queso fresco in a small bowl to combine.
Heat oil in a small skillet over medium-
high until hot but not smoking. Submerge
each tortilla in oil long enough to soften
but not so long that they fall apart, 5–10
seconds each. Transfer to a rimmed baking
sheet lined with paper towels to drain.
Working one at a time, fill each tortilla
with about ⅓ cup shredded chicken
and roll up tightly. Place 3 tortillas each,
5♦8
seam side down, into bowls. Ladle
½ cup of each sauce on opposite ends
of enchiladas. Top with a big spoonful
of crème fraîche mixture and scatter
onion over.
8 S E RV I N G S
house-made masa in her tamales. We
found Bob’s Red Mill masa harina most
closely matches her results. It has a more
pronounced corn flavor than other brands.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1½ cups masa harina (masa flour),
preferably Bob’s Red Mill
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more
for serving
4 ears of corn, husked, kernels
removed, or 4 cups frozen,
thawed
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter,
room temperature
½ cup raw or demerara sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup crème fraîche
⅔ cup crumbled queso fresco,
plus more for serving
Preheat oven to 325°. Lightly coat an
8x8" metal baking pan with nonstick
spray. Whisk masa, baking powder, salt,
and 1 tsp. cinnamon in a medium bowl.
Pulse corn kernels in a blender or food
processor until very coarsely puréed, just
a few seconds should do it.
Using an electric mixer on medium-high
speed, beat butter and raw sugar until
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
pale and slightly fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Beat in corn purée and vanilla. Reduce
speed to low and beat in dry ingredients;
mix until batter is smooth, about 2 minutes.
Scrape into prepared pan and cover
tightly with foil. Set baking pan inside
a large roasting pan; pour in boiling water
to come halfway up sides of baking pan.
Bake tamale until top springs back when
lightly pressed and a tester inserted into the
center comes out clean, 75–85 minutes.
Let cool slightly in pan before serving.
Mix crème fraîche and ⅔ cup queso
fresco in a small bowl. Scoop tamale
onto plates and top with crème fraîche
mixture, more queso fresco, and a dusting
of cinnamon.
 Tamales are
traditionally wrapped
in individual corn
husks and steamed,
but baking a single
large-format tamale
in a foil-covered pan
set in a roasting pan
of hot water
produces a similarly
tender texture. The
ALE result is a moist,
N TAM barely sweet cake
MO
NA with pudding vibes.
CIN
E ET
SW

Wild Ink
The backgrounds in this story were made by
Toronto Ink Company founder Jason Logan, whose
small-batch natural inks are often derived
from edible materials like black walnuts and
sumac. In his book, Make Ink: A Forager’s
Guide to Natural Inkmaking, Logan shows
readers how to turn everything from peach pits
to onion skins into vibrant inks that tell the
tale of where they came from. —SARAH JAMPEL
 woo-woo wellness
Ayurvedic yoga
instructor selling
you turmeric”

S A N A J AV E R I
K A D R I wants a
lot more out of
this sought-
after spice than
a trendy latte
by PRIYA KRISHNA

THE FIRST TIME Sana Javeri Kadri tried a voice, is the founder of spice company Diaspora
turmeric latte in the U.S., it was the summer of 2016, Co. Her house, which she shares with her girl-
PHOTOGRAPHS: PRARTHNA SINGH; ALEX LAU (PRODUCTS).

and she spotted it on the menu at a San Francisco friend, Rosie Russell, and their rescue dog, Lily,
café. “It was disgusting,” she recalls. ”They used smells perennially of earth.
way too much turmeric.” It’s a sunny, cloudless morning, and Javeri Kadri
“I dismissed the turmeric trend as silly,” she says offers me something to drink—not a turmeric latte. Diaspora Co.
launched
now, sitting in the living room of her house in Oak- Like many Indians, she associates the combination in August 2017
land, surrounded by clear encyclopedia-size bags of turmeric and milk—also known as haldi doodh— to capitalize
of the vibrantly hued spice. But soon enough tur- with sick days. on turmeric’s
popularity while
meric was at countless coffee shops and in the Diaspora Co. launched online in August 2017 guaranteeing
pages of food magazines, praised as a miracle with essentially no advance marketing, and all that Indian
farmers could make
spice for its nutritional benefits. “I realized that, the turmeric sold out in three hours. The irony here a living wage.
clearly, something was happening,” she says. is palpable: The very drink that Javeri Kadri hates
Javeri Kadri, a 25-year-old Mumbai native and refuses to make is what made her business
with bouncy blackish-brown curls and a bubbly wildly successful from the start.

6♦0
 Long before she founded Diaspora Co., Javeri
Kadri had been interested in the single-origin food
movement—companies that responsibly source
ingredients like coffee or cacao from a particular
grower. “I saw how people were taking a crop
where there is injustice and a lack of transparency
and solving a problem,” she says. In India, many
aspects of the food industry have been whitewashed,
Healthy Snacks
including the spice trade, which relied on enslaved Our horoscope is in. This is the year of the healthyish
people to grow, harvest, and transport goods during snack, and Jessica Young is our oracle. Her online
European colonization. “It was completely scrubbed retailer Bubble Goods works a little like Etsy: If a food
out of Westerners’ consciousness that you should brand passes Young’s taste test—and is free of bad
stuff—it can sell on getintothebubble.com and ship direct
care about your spices and where they come from,” to customers. “It’s all the best clean-label foods in
Javeri Kadri says. While colonization is long gone, a one place,” Young says. But back to the snacks. Here’s
similar supply chain persists. The vast majority of the what Young says we’ll crave in 2019. – A L I F R A N C I S
money from spice cultivation goes into the hands of
corporate food companies and various middlemen,
while farmers in India aren’t fairly compensated.
So in early 2017, Javeri Kadri moved back to
Mumbai and visited the Indian Institute of Spices
Research in Kozhikode, Kerala. What she found
was that the most popular varietal of turmeric sold in
the U.S.—Alleppey turmeric—wasn’t actually a vari-
etal at all. It was the name of a vacation destination JAC K F R U I T C H E W S GRANUESLI
by Amäzi Foods by Victory Dance Foods
in southern India favored by Europeans during col-
“Jackfruit is a “Granuesli is full
onization. As Javeri Kadri explains, “Any indigenous really wonderful meat of goodies like
knowledge of local varietals and nuances had alternative, and granola, but the oats
Amazi sources theirs are flattened like
more or less been stamped out.” from a cooperative muesli. It’s great to
Meanwhile, the institute had been seed-saving in Uganda.” snack on all day.”
highly potent varietals of turmeric that didn’t exist on
the commercial market. So Javeri Kadri decided she
would work directly with Indian farmers and export
these varieties herself. “I am not a woo-woo wellness
Ayurvedic yoga instructor selling you turmeric,” she
says emphatically. “I am a queer woman of color
who is a supply-chain nerd selling you turmeric.”
Setting up the business wasn’t easy: Javeri Kadri
works in a country where women are still not COCONUT CREAM GRANOLA BUT TER
afforded the same rights as men. “The farmers have CARAMELS by Kween
by Sweet Apricity “Imagine eating nut
never seen anybody like me,” she says. She hasn’t butter and cinnamon
“These caramels are
directly come out to any of her Indian colleagues made from coconut sugar oatmeal at the same
for fear it would jeopardize her fledgling business. and coconut cream. time. It’s packed
They’re chewy and with good ingredients
Diaspora Co. now has two full-time and four rich with the perfect too: gluten-free oats,
part-time employees. You’ll find the playful pink- amount of salt.” flax, olive oil…”

and-gold packaging everywhere from Third Cul-

ture Bakery in Berkeley to the Indian all-day café
Pondicheri with locations in Houston and New
York, and on her website, diasporaco.com.
Back at Diaspora HQ, Javeri Kadri makes us
eggs fried in ghee. She lays the sizzled eggs over
pinto beans and ham hocks, and we sit down to eat.
She still has complicated feelings about the way
health junkies are treating the spice like a new dis-
covery. “I wish I could show you the messages I get C AC AO C R U N C H SPICY PEANUT
from women who tell me how their chakras are in BLISS BALLS COCONUT DIP
by Raw by Sasya Foods
sync and Ayurveda has saved their soul,” she says
“A lot of balls are “It’s like a chutney
with a sigh. On the other hand, “If people are pay- either dry or oily. with tamarind, peanuts,
ing a premium for my turmeric so I can pay the farm- But these, made with coconut, ginger, and
coconut, cacao, chile. I love it loosened
ers the best price possible, I don’t really care what dates, and chia with olive oil and lemon
they do with it. It’s world domination, our way.” seeds, are amazing." juice into a dressing.”
 Putting Their All
into an All-Day Café
Folk in Detroit is about more than pothos plant aesthetics
and gluten-free waffles. K I K I L O U Y A and R O H A N I F O U L K E S
are committed to the community, offering living
wages, boosting urban agriculture, and sourcing locally.
Just look at what goes into a single bowl of yogurt.
photographs by ALEX LAU

Chelsea, Michigan–
based Fluffy Bottom
Farms supplies
the tangy yogurt made
from heritage
Jersey cows.
 FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

The honey
binding this
craggy granola
comes from
Sleeping Bear
Farms, located
in Beulah,
Michigan.

The chia seeds are

soaked in rooibos tea
from Eli Tea out of
Birmingham, Michigan,
which makes it
“exceptionally fragrant,”
Foulkes says.

Hazelnut Granola and ½ tsp. flaky sea salt Heat honey, oil, and vanilla in a before serving. (You’ll have enough
Chia Pudding Bowls 3 cups brewed rooibos tea, cooled small saucepan over medium-low, whisking granola and chia pudding for about
¾ cup chia seeds until melted and combined, about 16 servings. Keep on hand for making
GRANOLA AND CHIA PUDDING 2 minutes. Pour over oat mixture and mix more bowls or other uses (try a scoop
3 cups old-fashioned oats ASS E M B LY thoroughly to coat. Spread out on a of chia pudding in a smoothie!).
½ cup coarsely chopped skin-on 4 cups plain Greek yogurt rimmed parchment-lined baking sheet D O A H E A D : Granola and chia pudding
hazelnuts or pecans 2 tsp. honey and sprinkle with sea salt. can be made 10 days ahead. Store
½ cup skin-on almonds ½ tsp. vanilla extract Bake granola 10 minutes. Remove from granola airtight at room temperature and
½ cup unsweetened coconut flakes 4 Tbsp. apricot jam oven and stir. Return to oven and bake until chill chia pudding.
¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) Chia seeds (for serving; optional) golden brown and crisp, 8–10 minutes.
¼ cup raw sunflower seeds Remove from oven and stir again. Let cool ASS E M B LY
Mix together yogurt, honey,
1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon GRANOLA AND CHIA PUDDING Preheat on baking sheet. and vanilla in a small bowl, then divide
½ tsp. kosher salt oven to 300°. Toss oats, hazelnuts, Combine tea and chia seeds in a 1-qt. among 4 shallow bowls. Top each with
½ cup honey almonds, coconut flakes, pumpkin seeds, jar or airtight container. Cover and shake ¼ cup granola, ¼ cup chia pudding,
¼ cup virgin coconut oil sunflower seeds, cinnamon, and kosher to combine. Let sit 5 minutes, then shake and 1 Tbsp. jam. Sprinkle with more chia
1 tsp. vanilla extract salt in a large bowl. again. Let sit at least another 15 minutes seeds if desired. Makes 4

6♦3
 Clockwise from top left: Peppa shrimp; Lalito executive chef Kia Damon; roasted winter squash with herbs;
creative director Jaé Joseph.  Opposite page: Francis (right) with Yardy co-chef Charlie Anderle.

6♦4
WHO YO U E AT WITH
M AT T E R S AS MUCH
AS W H AT YO U E AT
by For D E V O N N
CHRISTINA CHAEY FRANCIS,
 food is
photographs by all about
EMMA FISH MAN community
 I’V E M E T A PARIS IAN jumpsuit designer, a performance
poet, and a writer who hosts a sex and culture podcast on queer
brown identity (called Food 4 Thot), and I’ve only been at
DeVonn Francis’s pop-up for 30 minutes.
Francis, our cohost for the night, is standing at a marble kitchen
counter garnishing a plate of charred okra strips and magenta
pickled carrots. The tight curls of his dyed blond hair are piled
high atop his head, adding another four inches to his six-foot-two
frame. (Did I mention he’s basically a supermodel?) His voice is
soft and gentle as he stops to chat with friends, and he’s way
more zen than anyone cooking a meal for 50 should be.
There’s a long table set for dinner. Well, kind of. It looks more
like an art installation, with platters of smoked tamarind chicken
wings and fragrant turmeric rice nestled among miscellaneous
objects I may or may not be supposed to eat. Among them:
knobby whole yucca and cassava roots stuck with blades of
dried grasses and mounds of what I thought was pink sand but
later find out is kosher salt dyed with hibiscus powder. this house for people who are trying to find their
There aren’t enough serving utensils—and actually, there aren’t way back home, figure out who they are, and learn
even tables to sit at—but no one seems to mind using their hands to about where they come from,” he says.
dig into the spread. And the meal is only the beginning. As the night Francis has quickly become a prominent face of
goes on, new friends pass rum cocktails and thick slices of coconut a new generation of chefs who are reshaping what
cake while we listen to a panel led by Francis on the erasure of it means to eat out right now. Pop-up dinners like
black lesbians from the AIDS movement. We go back for seconds Yardy, Savage Taste in L.A., and Babetown in New
of rice and wings before a spontaneous dance party strikes up, the York are as much about creating welcoming com-
room a blur of sequins and glitter and neon. munity spaces as they are about the wildly creative
Francis throws pop-up dinners like these through his food and food on your plate. Many of these events are run by
events company, Yardy, and he attracts a steady (and steadily people like Francis, who didn’t go to culinary school
growing) crowd of NYC creative types. The son of immigrants, or spend years working the line in restaurant kitch-
Francis adopted the name Yardy from the patois word yaadie, a ens. They’re not obsessed with best-of lists or critics’
colloquial term of endearment that Jamaicans and Jamaican- reviews. They’re cooking food that’s driven by a de-
born Americans call one another to acknowledge that they come sire to honor their personal experiences.
from the same place. And although Yardy parties are a way for Francis frequently collaborates with other chefs,
Francis, 26, to explore his own relationship to his Caribbean makers, artists, and small-business owners who are
heritage through food, he also sees them as a platform to pro- committed to increasing queer visibility through
mote and support queer and migrant culture. “I think of Yardy as food. Past Yardy affairs have included a dinner

6♦6
 “Holistic Wellness
Has Been Part of Our
Culture for
Thousands of Years”

C H E L S E Y L U G E R is
giving ancestral Native American
practices a 2019 reboot

C H E L S E Y L U G E R W A S working as a personal trainer

when she realized that a lot of the “alternative” practices the
health world was preaching were similar to things she’d
grown up with as a Native American of Ojibwe and Lakota
descent. But no one was talking to Native Americans about it.
As a result of forced displacements and poverty, much of
the Native American population has suffered from health
issues like diabetes, alcoholism, and drug use. “We wanted
to reclaim our power, health, and food sovereignty because
holistic wellness has been part of our culture for thousands
of years,” says Luger, who spent parts of her childhood on
a reservation in North Dakota, surrounded by the holistic
learnings of Native American culture. In response she
cofounded Well for Culture (wellforculture.com), a company
devoted to helping the next generation of Native Americans
rediscover the wellness practices of their ancestors.
The goal is to make traditional wellness practices feel
accessible to young people in today’s world. Not everyone
can harvest and hunt, “but you can follow certain ideals,”
Charred okra
Luger says, like buying organic and local and showing
salad with gratitude toward your food.
pickled red “These practices have always been who we are,” Luger says.
onions, pickled “It comes down to the future generations.”  P R I YA K R I S H N A
carrots, and
lime zest

with Andre Springer, whose drag alter ego

Shaquanda Coco Mulatta is the face of his Barba-
dian hot sauce brand, Shaquanda’s Hot Pepper
Sauce, and a dance party with Papi Juice, a Brook-
lyn-based DJ collective that throws events for queer
and trans people of color.
Even with dozens of dinners under his belt, Fran-
cis is still reluctant to call himself a chef. He likes to
cook, sure, but he also likes to write, give talks, and
make art. He’d much rather spend his free time
making custom placemats printed with articles
PHOTOGRAPH BY THOSH COLLINS

about Jamaican politics than learning about the

differences between velouté and béchamel. Food
will always be the lens of his work, but he doesn’t
feel the need to be defined by his cooking.
“I don’t want to serve food that makes you feel like
you have to focus so much on the actual food,” he says.
GUTTER

“Forcing people to use their hands, walk around, pick

up things—that’s what makes a dinner interesting.”
 The Hangover-Free,
Mezcal Totally Pure,
“No one would give a penny for mezcal 15, SO HOW
D O YOU T U R N
20 years ago,” says Yola Jimenez, founder of AN AGAV E
the women-owned and -operated Yola Mezcal , P L AN T IN TO…
based in Oaxaca. Today the smoky Mexican T H IS?

spirit has become the booze of choice for the

wellness-obsessed, with new brands and trendy
mezcalerias cropping up from L.A. to NYC. And
no mezcal brand represents the current zeitgeist Harvest a mature
agave plant (at
better than Yola, which combines new-school least seven years
old) and cut the
sensibility and socially conscious sourcing with leaves away to
reach the piña.
old-school techniques—Jimenez still uses her
grandfather’s recipe from 1971. “It’s truly based
on tradition and truly handmade,” Jimenez says.
“When you drink it, you feel that.”  H I L A R Y C A D I G A N

three days in a
wood-fired, cone-
shaped, stone-
lined oven dug
into the ground.

Grind the piña

Does in a stone mill

Mezcal (ideally pulled

by a horse!)
Actually to get all the
juices out.
Give You
Less of a The Future Is Female
In college Jimenez learned the economic
Hangover? theory that when you pay the women juice

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (DRINK, BOTTLE); PEDEN + MUNK (JIMENEZ)

Hard science of the family, more money stays within
there is not, but we the household. That’s why, in the male-
have noticed our dominated mezcal industry, her company Add water and or Nonino
post-mezcal mornings employs only women, from the farmers let the
juices ferment
are not nearly as to the bottlers. “For me this brand was naturally in
bad as some others. always about trying to help people from a wooden barrel
Jimenez believes Oaxaca, where I come from,” she says. for about
this is because good two weeks.
mezcal contains
no additives:
“Proper mezcal has 6 PL ACES TO DRINK
absolutely nothing but M EZC A L S TAT E S I D E
organic agave and
water. When you Clavel Todos Santos
wake up after a night Baltimore Chicago
Distill the
of drinking it, you feel mixture in a
Bar Caló Ghost Donkey
the same way as you L.A. NYC
copper pot two bitters
do when you drink or three times,
then let it
natural wines. Your The Pastry War Teote
age in glass
body just recognizes Houston Portland, OR Top with a
barrels. Voilà!
the difference.” Mezcal. Makes 1
 of the
Good-
for-You
*No doctor approves this statement,
but trust us, we’ve tested it out
Drink Moment
The Bar That

Arley Marks, co-owner

of Brooklyn bar
Honey’s, paired mezcal
with amaro and frothy
egg white to create
this cocktail in honor
of Jimenez.

“Mezcal gives me
a certain amount of
clarity and vision
I don’t get with other
alcohols. People
in Oaxaca drink it
with a lot of respect.
You sip it, you sit
with it, you live with it.”
—Yola Jimenez

6♦9
 What “This glossy LikeMindedObjects
Globe Lamp ($375) brings the light

Comes down to directly illuminate the

table and emphasize an intimate
dining space.”

After
Millennial “I like inserting
faces into my

Pink? furniture,
especially this
LikeMindedObjects
Face Mirror ($280)
because the user
Restaurant designer becomes a part of
the piece through
E L I S E M C M A H O N ’s work the reflection.”
isn’t just about
curating a look. It’s
about building shared
spaces for her community

D E S I G N E X P E R T S S E E M to have the
same checklist: Midcentury-modern furniture?
Yup. Rose gold accents? Sure.
Not Elise McMahon, the brains behind “The Yiyi Mendoza
furniture and design studio LikeMindedObjects Onda Mugs ($36
in Hudson, New York. She’s got different each) feel soft and
priorities. Just pull up a seat at a hexagonal- feminine but hard
and contemporary
ish table at Relationships, a breezy café in
at the same time.”
Brooklyn. Or look at the marbled pillows,
face-shape mirrors, and more inside the new
lounge at Lil’ Deb’s Oasis in Hudson.
Since opening in 2016, Lil’ Deb’s has
gained a following—not just for chefs Carla
Perez-Gallardo and Hannah Black’s tropical
food or as a gathering place for Hudson’s
queer community but because of McMahon’s
fun atmosphere.
“I know that furniture isn’t exactly solving
world issues,” McMahon says. “But by
making these interiors, I feel like I can directly
affect my community.” —E L Y S E I N A M I N E
 McMahon, interior designer and expert juggler

“The Christin Ripley Floor

Pillows ($70 each) all have
completely unique colors
since they’re hand-dyed.”
 The bacon neon,
as McMahon and
the Lil’ Deb’s
team refer to
these signs, is a
Craigslist find.

7♦1
“I love how these
Ugly Rugly Eatto Place
Mats ($50 each) make
a flat plane feel
sculptural. It feels
as if someone has
prepared something
specifically for
whoever is sitting in
front of it.”

You can purchase McMahon’s picks at likemindedobjects.com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
DON’T CALL

it
If you’ve bought a grain
bowl anytime in the past few
years, you know that F A S T 
C A S U A L R E S T A U R A N T S across
the country are thinking about
their sourcing more than ever.
But do you ever wonder who’s
out there at the source?

by PRIYA KRISHNA
photographs by ALEX LAU
FAST FOOD

SUNNY SIDE
SMASH BURGER WITH
SALSA VERDE
P. 75

Building a
Better Burger

When Jason Mann was

a rancher, he noticed that most
of the buyers for grass-fed beef
were fine-dining restaurants
looking for specific cuts,
inevitably leaving farmers with
lesser-known cuts that they
couldn’t sell. Mann found the
solution to this dilemma in the
humble burger. Farm Burger—
which launched in 2010 and
now has 12 locations—sources
local grass-fed whole cattle
that are broken down in-house.
Here, burgers (like the ever
popular Sunny Side, pictured)
are ground from “a whole
carcass blend” that includes
anything from chuck to flank to
sirloin. Offal goes into specials,
and fat is rendered to create
tallow butter that the burgers are
cooked in. Jamie Ager, a fourth-
generation farmer at Hickory
Nut Gap Farm in North Carolina
who sells to Farm Burger, calls
the restaurant’s approach
“a more holistic way of looking
at the market.”

7♦3
Your Fast- GRILLED
CHICKEN AND
Casual Farmer QUINOA
WITH MATCHA
DRESSING
After working at Per Se and
Gramercy Tavern, Michaela
Skloven wanted to bring
that same sourcing-obsessed
mentality to the fast-casual
space. When she became the
executive chef of Homegrown,
a sandwich shop that launched
in Seattle in 2009 and now has
eight locations, she started a
half-acre organic farm to grow
produce—like the cucumbers
and cherry tomatoes that go
into this chicken and avocado
bowl. Homegrown staff are
invited to spend time working
on the farm so they can see
first-hand where the food comes
from. “The more respect they
have for the food, the less likely
people are to do something like
throw away a tomato,” Skloven
says. “That’s how we change
the whole food landscape.”

Good for You,

Good for the Soil

Hearty, nutrient-heavy, and

endlessly versatile, lentils were
a staple for Dimitri Moshovitis,
who grew up in Greece.
So back in 2006, when he
cofounded Cava (which now
has 74 locations across the
East Coast, California, and
Texas), Moshovitis saw them
as an obvious base for the
Mediterranean spot’s bowl-
centric menu. He came across
black beluga lentils from
Timeless Natural Food,
a company based in rural
Montana, and was impressed
by the varietal’s rich flavor.
But he was more excited to
learn that these lentils are
BLACK LENTIL
enriching the nutrient density
of large swaths of land in
AND HARISSA
Montana, a state whose
ROASTED
agriculture has historically been
VEGGIE BOWL
dominated by cereal grains
that can deplete the soil. Win-win.
 Sunny Side Smash
Burger with Salsa Verde
MAKES 4 Most domestic grass-fed beef
includes cattle that also eat some grain;
the meat is not too lean or “grassy” and
makes for a very satisfying burger.
S A LS A V E R D E
1 lb. tomatillos, husks removed,
rinsed
1 small onion, peeled, quartered
3 dressing alongside.
1 Ceremonial is the highest
Kosher salt
1 Black Lentil and Harissa-
tender stems
2 We love the roasted sweet
ASS E M B LY
20
(20% fat)
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 soft sesame seed buns, split
4 large eggs
S A LS A V E R D E Heat broiler. Toss tomatillos,
onion, and jalapeños with oil on a foil-
lined rimmed baking sheet; season with
salt. Broil until blackened in spots and
very soft, 12–15 minutes. Let vegetables
cool slightly, then transfer to a food
processor. Add cilantro and black
pepper; pulse until coarsely chopped
(3 or 4 pulses). Taste salsa verde and
season with more salt if needed.
D O A H E A D : Salsa verde can be made
1 day ahead. Transfer to a small bowl;
cover and chill.
ASS E M B LY Portion beef into 4 loosely
packed balls (5 oz. each). Heat a large
cast-iron skillet over medium-high until
just beginning to smoke. Add 2 Tbsp.
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
oil, then all 4 balls of meat. Firmly smash
down on meat with a heavy metal spatula
to create a craggy-edged 4"-diameter
patty; season with salt and pepper.
Cook, undisturbed, until deeply charred
underneath, about 3 minutes. Flip and
season other side with salt and pepper;
cook to medium, about 3 minutes.
Transfer to a plate and let rest.
Carefully wipe out skillet with a paper
towel, leaving only a light coating of oil.
Set skillet over medium heat. Working
in 2 batches, toast buns, cut side down,
until golden brown, about 1 minute.
Transfer to a clean surface.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
nonstick skillet over medium. Crack eggs
into skillet and cook until whites are just
set and edges are crisp, about 4 minutes.
Season with salt.
Spread insides of both tops and
bottoms of buns with a heaping
tablespoonful of salsa verde. Place
a burger on each bottom bun, top with
an egg, sunny side up, and close burger.
Grilled Chicken and Quinoa
Q U I N OA A N D C H I C K E N
½ cup quinoa
Kosher salt
2 large skinless, boneless chicken
breasts (about 18 oz.)
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
D R E SS I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
1 cup vegan or regular mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 ½" pieces
1½ tsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. agave nectar
2 garlic cloves
1½
½ cup basil leaves
¼ cup parsley leaves with
tender stems
12 cups baby greens (such as kale,
spinach, and/or arugula)
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
4 Persian cucumbers, cut into
1" pieces (about 2 cups)
2 avocado, cut into ¾" pieces
1⅓ cups crumbled feta
Bring a small
Q U I N OA A N D C H I C K E N
pot of water to a boil. Add quinoa, return
to a boil, and cook until tender, 15–20
minutes. Drain, return quinoa to warm pot,
and fluff with a fork to release some of
the steam. Season with salt; cover to keep
warm until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, prepare a grill for
medium-high heat. (Or heat a cast-iron
grill pan or medium skillet over medium-
high.) Rub chicken on all sides with oil
and season with salt and pepper. Grill
(or sear) chicken, turning halfway through,
until just cooked through, 12–15 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a cutting board and let
rest 5 minutes, then cut into ½" pieces.
7♦5
D R E SS I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Purée
mayonnaise, lime juice, matcha, mustard,
agave, garlic, and 1½ tsp. salt in a
food processor until smooth. Add basil
and parsley and pulse until incorporated.
Toss quinoa, chicken, greens, tomatoes,
and cucumbers in a large bowl to
combine. Add ½ cup dressing and toss
to coat; season with salt.
Divide salad among bowls and top
with avocado and feta. Serve remaining
Roasted Veggie Bowl
4 S E RV I N G S
potatoes in this bowl, but any hardy
vegetable would be just as delicious. Try
delicata squash, cauliflower, or eggplant.
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 cups black beluga lentils, rinsed
½ tsp. ground coriander
7 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. harissa paste, divided
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
plus more
2 large sweet potatoes (about
1½ lb.), scrubbed, cut into
2 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. honey
½ cup chopped cilantro
Preheat oven to 425°. Bring a medium
saucepan of salted water to a boil;
add lentils. Adjust heat and simmer until
just cooked through, 25–30 minutes.
Drain lentils and transfer to a large bowl;
let cool slightly.
Meanwhile, whisk coriander, 3 Tbsp.
oil, 1 Tbsp. harissa paste, 2 tsp. salt,
and ½ tsp. pepper in a small bowl.
Arrange sweet potatoes and tomatoes
on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle
with harissa oil (reserve bowl for dressing).
Roast, tossing once, until sweet potatoes
are tender and browned on some sides
and tomatoes burst, 25–30 minutes.
Whisk vinegar, honey, and remaining
1 Tbsp. harissa in reserved bowl. Stream in
remaining 4 Tbsp. oil, whisking constantly
until emulsified; season vinaigrette with salt.
Add half of vinaigrette to lentils and
toss to combine. Taste and season with
salt and pepper. Divide among bowls.
Top with roasted vegetables and cilantro.
Drizzle with remaining vinaigrette.
D O A H E A D : Lentils can be cooked
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
 Do You Want
CBD with That?

The nonpsychoactive cannabis compound

with legalish status nationwide has made the jump
from high-minded supplement shelves to local
coffee shops, but we prefer to infuse our
own food to control dosage and balance out that,
ahem, herbal flavor. We asked chef Andrea
Drummer, whose dinner parties with Elevation
VIP Cooperative are the hottest seat in L.A.,
for her blissed-out CBD caramel sauce recipe.
Drizzle as desired.  A L I Z A A B A R B A N E L

CBD Caramel Sauce until melted, then stir in 1 tsp.

Evenly spread 1 cup sugar in
a medium saucepan and cook,
undisturbed, over medium heat,
until melting and turning golden
brown around the edges. Using
vanilla extract and ½ tsp.
kosher salt. Let caramel cool
slightly, about 5 minutes, then
add 180 mg full-spectrum
PHOTOGRAPH BY JESSICA SARKODIE.

CBD oil (such as Ritual), stirring

a heatproof rubber spatula,
stir melted sugar into unmelted
sugar, then continue to cook,
stirring occasionally, until all the
sugar is melted and a deep
amber color, about 5 minutes.
Remove pan from heat and
slowly add ½ cup heavy cream
to caramel, stirring constantly
(mixture will bubble vigorously
and seize). Add 3 Tbsp. unsalted
butter, cut into pieces, and stir
vigorously until caramel sauce
is emulsified. Transfer to an
airtight container or small bowl
and let cool completely. Drizzle
2 Tbsp. (15 mg CBD) per serving
over ice cream, pound cake,
or brownies, or stir into yogurt.
Do ahead: Caramel
can be made 2 weeks ahead.
Cover and chill. Reheat over low
before using. 12 servings
Feed
Your Skin
Like
You Feed
Yourself
H A N A H A N A B E A U T Y isn’t just
any skincare company, and Abena
Boamah-Acheampong isn’t just any
CEO. The 27-year-old former algebra
teacher sources vitamin-rich, super-
moisturizing shea butter directly from
female producers in Ghana to create
the silky-smooth all-natural balms
getting us through winter and beyond.
Boamah-Acheampong founded
Hanahana (which means “smooth and
malleable” in Twi, a dialect spoken in
parts of Ghana) to support both the
black women who make her products
and the ones who buy them. “My
goal for Hanahana Beauty is to
ensure that black women understand
these products were made for them,”
she says. “So often we aren’t thought
about in the beauty industry, but
I consider everything from our

7♦7
ingredient selection to our marketing
with them in mind.”  S I R A A D D I R S H E

G e ts M a d e

Shea nuts are curds form on top.

collected from The curds are
trees then boiled, cooked again
shelled, and until dark oil
finely ground. rises to the top
- and is skimmed
The ground shea off, leaving
nuts get roasted liquid shea
and put through butter behind.
a milling machine, -
becoming a paste. Once cool, the
- shea butter
Hot water is added is cut into
to the paste, blocks and ready
then it’s whipped to sell.
by hand until

 Abena Boamah-Acheampong in
Tamale, Ghana, where she sources shea
butter for her skincare brand
Saffron dye ready to
be deployed
  Saffron-dyed silk pants from the duo’s

S
spring/summer ’19 collection

A
F
is
F the
R

New
O
N

B
L
A
C
K
With their gender-neutral fashion line Olderbrother,
B O B B Y B O N A P A R T E and M A X K I N G E R Y serve up looks inspired by an unlikely
source: the vibrantly hued ingredients of the moment

by AMIEL STANEK  photographs by ALEX LAU

7♦9
 N ATU RA L
LOOKS
Three recent food-
grade collections

COFFEE
“We got a lot of help
from a friend who is
a coffee roaster, but
the variables were
huge—where the beans
are from, how they’re
roasted, processed, and
ground—and those all
became nuances of the
process and product.”

HIBISCUS
“You think about the
tea bag, and that’s your
color palette. It just
felt right for a spring/
summer collection. We
really wanted to tell
 Bonaparte (left) and Kingery model with the medicinal a summer story with
mushroom that inspired their fall/winter ’18 collection. the hibiscus—thinking
about being served iced
hibiscus tea at a garden
party, very vibe-y.”

B O B B Y B O N A P A R T E A N D M A X K I N G E R Y , the duo behind the fashion line Olderbrother,

could give a TED Talk on the nightmarish impact the garment industry has on the environment.
But they would rather not. Instead, they quietly construct their whimsical unisex clothes from
sustainably harvested fabrics like organic Japanese cotton and use vivid dyes made from
almost exclusively edible pigments. In conceiving each season’s limited-run colorways, they
draw inspiration from ingredients that are animating the wellness world at that particular
moment—fiery-orange turmeric, golden saffron, the muted earth tones of healing mush-
rooms—and spend months of R&D figuring out how to best translate those hues to evocative,
relatable garments that integrate seamlessly into people’s lives.
“We’re not looking at a Pantone book and asking, ‘What’s pretty this season?’” Kingery C H AGA M U S H R O O M S
explains. “Just the idea that these are natural dyes might spark interest, but we want to tran- “We’re nowhere close to
being mushroom experts,
scend that, explore things that people have a special relationship with. We want people who but we’re total fanboys.
love chaga mushrooms to see a chaga-dyed shirt and get amped.” There is a whole
category of mushrooms
By limiting production and declining to repeat most colors from season to season, Older- used for dyeing, but
brother blends the principles underpinning both the Slow Food movement and hypebeast most of them aren’t
streetwear culture. “Keeping things seasonal helps to make them more special,” Bonaparte edible. We experimented
with chaga, and when it
says. “If you want a coffee sweatshirt from a year ago, you’re kind of out of luck. We have too worked we were like,
much exploring to do; we’re really just scratching the surface.” ‘Jackpot!’”

8♦0
Mushrooms, moss, and
more colorful scenes
from Olderbrother’s
Los Angeles
production facility
THE WINE SPEAKS
FOR ITSELF
K R I S T A S C R U G G S is
being heralded as the
next star of the natural
wine world. But she’d
prefer you focus less
on her and more on
what’s in the bottle
by MARISSA A. ROSS

I W A S A T A P A R T Y I N O A K L A N D last spring when I first

tried Krista Scruggs’ wine. It tasted like a pineapple that had been
salted, lightly misted in tanning oil, and struck by lightning in the
bottle. It was tropical and inviting but with such racing acidity that
I was lusting for another glass before I finished the first. “Who made
this?!” I cried. The crowd parted, and there was Krista Scruggs.
The wine was a bone-dry pétillant-naturel, one of those
crown-capped sparkling wines that finishes its single fermenta-
tion in the bottle to create carbonation. But Scruggs’ provoca-
tively titled “Jungle Fever,” made from La Crescent—a white
grape that oscillates between laser acidity and ripe fruitiness—
had a continuous beady effervescence that could rival anything
you brought back from France. It was one of five releases from
Scruggs’ first vintage of her Vermont-based label, Zafa, which is
named after the word for a good-luck charm in Junot Díaz’s The
Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao. Her all-natural operation
produces wines and ciders and also blends the two to create
vinous ciders, an increasingly cool category in the natural wine
world. I couldn’t get any of them out of my head.
B Y T H E T I M E I G O T T O V E R M O N T to drink more, ahem,
I mean, write about the wildly intoxicating Zafa releases, Scruggs
had become the hottest name in natural wine since Action Bron-
son did that Facebook video with Frank Cornelissen. Articles
painted her as a “rule breaker” and a “trailblazer,” and now,
a mere six months after she’d poured her first glasses of wine for
the public, she was named one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40
Tastemakers of 2018. It was a come-up most winemakers could
only dream of. But for Scruggs—a black queer female wine-
maker—it didn’t feel supportive; it felt slanted.
“There is this narrative that I’m this poor black girl from Oakland
who got plucked out of a wine bar, started making wine in Vermont
on a lark, and became an overnight success,” Scruggs said from
the driver’s seat as we started the two-hour drive from her wood-
paneled studio apartment in Burlington to the expansive hillsides
of Barnard. “I’m from Fresno, from central California’s farming
belt,” she told me with equal parts pride and exasperation.
Scruggs rarely speaks without passion, but there is nothing she
is more fervent about than farming. Her grandfather had a farm in
Visalia, California, when she was growing up, and she would
spend every weekend working either on his land or in the garden
with her grandmother. After two years as the shipping coordina-
tor for one of the largest wine companies in the
country, Constellation Brands, Scruggs decided to
work a harvest in France. She came back knowing
that she wanted to own land, to farm it, and to be
not just a winemaker but also a vigneron, the French
term for grape farmer. And it deserves a fancy
French word because there are plenty of winemak-
ers who don’t grow their own grapes, but Scruggs
does. “Farming is a part of me, a part of my story,”
she says. “When you understand that, it makes
sense why I make wine in Vermont—because it’s
impossible to farm in California today.”
As a Golden State native who covers wine from
Los Angeles, I know she’s right. There’s not enough
land, and the land that there is, no one has enough
money for—not to mention climate change and
the wildfires. In 2016, Scruggs met Vermont wine-
maker and visionary Deirdre Heekin at Oakland
wine bar Ordinaire, where Scruggs had taken up
hanging out and honing her palate. Within the
year Scruggs had moved to Vermont and become
the assistant winemaker and farmhand at Heekin’s
winery, La Garagista. In 2017 she made the first
vintage of Zafa, her own wine, sourcing grapes
from one of La Garagista’s vineyards and foraging
wild apples around Mount Hunger. Last year she
converted a conventionally farmed vineyard to
biodynamic practices by working more than 100

days straight. “I don’t think it’s ‘overnight success’
to work your ass off for eight years, for up to 120
hours a week, making $15 an hour. But people
don’t want to hear that,” Scruggs said. She shook
her head, shifting anxiously under her seat belt.
“Instead of talking about my farming or my
wines, I’m spotlighted for my race and my gender
because that is the story people want,” Scruggs
told me as we drove through the broad strokes of
green on Interstate 89. “I’m proud of those things,
and I’m happy people want to highlight them
because it means they are acknowledging that
I have struggled more in a homogenized industry.
But they want the angle for a story without ever
getting to know me, or they want my name in their
portfolio without ever trying my wines. They say
they ‘need’ me, meaning ‘We need someone who
looks like you doing what you’re doing.’ They’re
commoditizing the fact I’m a black woman in Ver-
mont. It doesn’t just undermine the last eight years
of my life, it erases my history, which already hap-
pens as a black person.”
She parked the car outside our first stop, wine-
maker Todd Trzaskos’ Stockbridge farmhouse, and
sighed, giving each of her eyes a single swipe with
the heels of her palms. By the time she hopped out
of the car, she was back to wearing her infectious
trademark smile.
T H AT DAY I N C E N T R A L V E R M O N T was the
most incredible day I’ve ever had tasting wine in
America. At Trzaskos’ we drank vibrant La Crescent
and Marquette from huge glass jugs that caught the
early September light, illuminating the room in neon
pops of gold and coral. In the idyllic Tuscan barn of
cult cider producer Fable Farm Fermentory, we had
a long lunch of fresh greens and stews and a dozen
other delicious things I can’t remember because
I was so enthralled by the bottles on the table. We
topped it off with dinner at La Garagista, a property
so beautiful with vines and colorful bursts of flora
and damigianas tucked along garden paths that
I would need to double my word count to do it jus-
tice. Heekin’s biodynamic paradise is where she
has produced some of the most acclaimed and
beloved American wines of the last decade, elevat-
ing hybrid grapes out of obscurity. I drank a bottle
of La Garagista’s “Stolen Roses,” a stunning spar-
kling rosé made by fermenting cider on top of red
wine pomace that smells like ripe wild strawberries,
white lilies, apple blossoms, and lavender, and
tastes like a field of raspberries with pomegranate
arils and sprigs of rosemary crushed under bare
feet. There was no questioning that this was where
Scruggs cut her teeth.
On the drive back to Burlington, Scruggs raved
about La Crescent and ranted about how under-
rated it was. She lamented over exes and excitedly
told me of new releases she was dedicating to new
The Woman loves. Near tears, she gushed gratitude for her
Behind community in Vermont: Her friends who produce
the Women in Shacksbury, one of Vermont’s most popular ciders,
This Issue gave her a personal loan to open her new cellar
and tasting room in Burlington, and her apple sup-
plier, Carl Cobb of Canamak Farms, helped her
L.A. native Stephanie secure a lease of 40 acres on Grand Isle to plant
DeAngelis, 27,
has been drawing ten acres of vines and two acres of apple trees.
female figures since “I am one of the luckiest people in the world in that
high school, but I actually get to do what I want to do. I get to create,
she didn’t start drawing and there is nothing more beautiful than that.”
the woman until the
2016 election season.
She paused. “But I’m away from my family, I’m
After seeing the away from anything that looks like me. If that is the
way women were cost for me to farm and make wines with purpose,
being represented in then that is the cost. All I can do is keep doing what
that cultural moment, I’m doing and let my work speak for itself.” And it
DeAngelis created her
iconic dark-haired, does. Zafa’s first vintage tells a tale of tug-of-war
fuller-bodied, often- between California and Vermont, from “Against All
nude figure spending Odds,” a vinous cider that tastes like an electrified
quality “me” time—and Dole Whip, to “No Love Lost,” another vinous cider
women everywhere
recognized themselves.
made with Frontenac Noir that’s like sipping on
“Often women are a spiced cider wrapped in a fuzzy blanket of tan-
told that we have to be nins next to a fire crackling with acidity, to “Anchors
one thing. But she Away,” a straight Frontenac Noir that tastes like an
represents all the facets experimental track at the end of an album. Its notes
of ourselves we don’t
get to spend time of savory barbecue, honey, and violets leave you
with and explore.” wondering, and waiting for, what Zafa will release
 AMANDA SHAPIRO next and what story it will tell.
8♦3
 CORTNEY BURNS
is the G O D M
OF F E R M
PEAR CORES
In Burns’ kitchen, nothing goes
to waste, so these cores and stems
(a by-product of poached pears)
are transformed into a sweet
spirit you can sip on the rocks.

QUEEN
A N N E ’S L AC E
When Burns found
these flowers
growing a quarter-
mile from her
house, she plucked
them out of the
ground and stuffed
them into a jar
of Everclear.

GA L A N GA L
Like turbocharged ginger,
with a touch of citrus.

CORTNE Y BURNS HAD EVE RY THING a cook
could ask for: the cult-favorite restaurant (Bar Tartine),
the book (also Bar Tartine), and a fanatic following of
Bay Area diners. Then, two years ago, Burns disap-
peared. And for those of us who had come to crave her
Japanese- and Hungarian-influenced cooking and
admire her relentless drive to make everything—kimchi,
yogurt, onion powder (onion powder!)—with her own
hands, this was something to worry about.
Because nobody else cooks like Burns. Who else
would tear sumac off neighborhood trees and sub-
merge it in Everclear to create a tincture? Burns’ famous
larder (including her arsenal of hyperlocal handmade
spirits pictured above) is a reflection of the place and

8♦4
O T H E R
by DAVID TAMARKIN

photographs by ALEX LAU

E N T A T I O N
C U C U M B E R B LO S S O M
Just like those gins that taste
like cucumber, only a little
more bitter, a little more
floral—and much, much prettier.

LEMONGRASS
When Burns found out that Kitchen
Garden Farm in Sunderland, MA,
grows lemongrass, did her mind
immediately go to stir-fries? Sure.
But she also started dreaming
of lemongrass-infused mai tais.

E L D E R F LOW E R
Bottling elderflower is
essentially bottling
summer. “It tastes like
you’re wearing a lacy
white dress,” Burns says.

time she is living in, and her dishes are piled with layers—
literal layers of sauces and herbs and nuts and seeds,
and ethereal layers of stories and ideas.
When Burns quietly left San Francisco, we feared
those ideas were gone forever. But then she turned up in
the Berkshires, as the chef-partner of a new-wave hotel
called Tourists. There Burns does everything from the
chocolate chip–pinecone cookies at the check-in desk
to 100-person events. Soon she’ll open her restaurant,
Loom, on the premises. “I never believed I could build
something from scratch on my own,” she says. But of
course she can. In fact, she has built not just a restaurant
but a kitchen ecosystem that’s entirely, uniquely hers.
Here’s what we learned from spending a few days in it.
1
You Don’t
Need Oil
to Roast
a Vegetable
2
The parsnips that get whirred
into this smooth, tangy G OO D
skordalia—a Greek spread VI B ES
that’ll make you forget =
about hummus—are roasted GOOD
in a pan with no oil, no salt, FOOD
Burns keeps
no nothing. “ We’ve become a collection of
talismans—
habituated as cooks to her altar, if you
always add oil when roasting will—close
to the kitchen.
vegetables,” Burns says.
“But if you’re simply trying
to tenderize the vegetable,
there’s really no reason
to have oil in the equation.” SAG E
“So I can smudge
the place when
Parsnip Skordalia negative energy
Preheat oven to 350°. Place 3 medium comes in. We
parsnips (about 1 lb.), trimmed, scrubbed, smudge all the
in an 8x8" baking dish. Cover tightly with breakfast pastries

3
before they head
foil and bake until very soft and mashable, out to the hotel.”
45–60 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop.
Meanwhile, toast 3 Tbsp. blanched
hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing
once, until golden brown, 7–10 minutes.
Let cool; coarsely chop.
Blend 1 cup dill fronds and ½ cup
If You Have Seeds,
grapeseed or avocado oil in a blender until
smooth; set aside.
R O S E Q U A RT Z
“Clears space
You Have Bread
Purée 2 finely chopped serrano chiles, for the grounding
1 crushed garlic clove, ¾ cup crumbled of new energy.” After years of listening to what her body was trying to tell her,
feta, and ⅓ cup lemon juice in a food Burns stopped eating gluten; much of her food is now quietly
processor until smooth. Add parsnips; pulse gluten-free. Going GF put Burns on a quest for a bread she could
until mostly smooth. With motor running, eat that would be packed with nutrition to boot. The result is this
stream in ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil and seedy loaf, dense with sesame in three forms: white and black
process until dip is extremely smooth and
seeds and tahini. Ground flaxseed and egg bind the batter, and
aerated. Transfer to a bowl; top with hazelnuts T U R K E Y F E AT H E R
and drizzle with reserved dill oil. 4 servings whole seeds provide a tiny crunch.
“Represents
freedom and
expansiveness.”
Black Seed mix well. Let batter sit (an instant-read
Bread 30 minutes for thermometer inserted
Grind ½ cup flaxseed to hydrate. into the center should
flaxseed in a spice Meanwhile, register 165°),
mill to a fine powder. preheat oven to 1½–2 hours.
B I R D ’S N E S T Whisk 6 large eggs, 200°. Line a 9x5" Transfer pan to a
“A symbol of 3 Tbsp. grapeseed loaf pan with wire rack; let bread
home, safety, or extra-virgin olive parchment paper, cool in pan 5 minutes.
nourishment.”
oil, and 1 Tbsp. leaving a generous Using parchment
tahini in a large overhang on long overhang, lift bread
FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

bowl. Add ground sides. Coat with onto rack; remove

flaxseed, 1 cup nonstick cooking oil parchment. Let bread
black sesame seeds, spray. Scrape batter cool completely.
½ cup white sesame into prepared pan Do ahead: Bread
seeds, ½ cup and smooth surface. can be baked 5 days
T U R K E Y F O OT poppy seeds, ½ cup Bake until top is ahead. Wrap tightly
“It reminds me to flaxseed, and firm to the touch and chill. Makes one
stay rooted.” 1 Tbsp. kosher salt; when gently pressed 9x5" loaf

8♦6
The seedy base to
Burns’ dense bread
 Pickled
Rose Petals
6
Pickled
Carrots
E at t h e
Pi c k l es ,
Pickled
Cucumbers
K eep
the Juice
Unsurprisingly, Burns always keeps leftover
Pickled
Beets pickle brines in her kitchen. Inspired by
narezushi, a Japanese method of pickling
rice and fish at the same time, she had the
brilliant idea to use pickle juice to dress
grains. The brine gives a distinctive tang
to this tabbouleh, turning the rice from
a mere base into something that offsets the
vegetables and keeps the whole dish awake
Pickled and alive. For her, using the pickle brine
Corn is a double win. “It’s utilizing what would
otherwise be a waste product,” she says.
“Plus, it’s free acid. Who doesn’t like free acid?”

4
Pickle
Pickled Rice
Tabbouleh
Place 1½ cups
short-grain brown
rice in a sieve or
correct timing).
Remove pan from
heat and let sit (still
covered) 15 minutes;
fluff rice with a fork.
5 colander and rinse Transfer warm
Everything MA K E
under running water
until water runs clear
rice to a large bowl
and mix in ¼ cup
EV E RY (this removes surface pickle brine to
Burns was way ahead of the I N G REDI EN T starch and keeps rice coat. Let rice cool
modern pickling craze: Bar from getting gummy). completely.
CO UN T Combine rice, one Add ½ cup finely
Tartine showed how almost Three ways
Burns makes
2x2" piece dried chopped tender
kombu (optional), herbs (such as
every dish is better when healthy food even
more nutritious and 2 cups water in cilantro, parsley,
fermented vegetables are a medium saucepan; dill, and/or
H AV E A S OA K season with salt tarragon), 3 Tbsp.
involved. So what’s stopping Whenever possible, and let rice soak extra-virgin olive
you from making your own? Burns sprouts her
grains, seeds, and
20 minutes. oil, and ¼ cup
pickle brine to rice
Bring rice to a
First, choose your jar. Then beans by soaking
them. “It increases
boil, then reduce and toss well. Finely
heat to low. Cover grate zest from
add your veggies, halving digestibility,”
she says. pan and cook until ½ lemon directly into
or quartering them as S TAY C O O L
rice is tender, 30–35 rice, then squeeze in
minutes (you can also the juice. Season with
needed to fit. Add enough “The less we heat
use a rice cooker; salt and pepper; toss
oil, the better
water to cover the contents, it is for the follow instructions for again. 4 servings
body,” Burns says.
then pour that water out into So instead of, say,
sautéing greens
a large measuring cup. Stir in olive oil,
Burns steams the
in one tablespoon of kosher greens, then
adds oil for flavor
salt for every cup of water, and lusciousness. 7
then pour the brine back PA I R U P When
over the veg. Store in a cool, Certain nutritional
benefits are only It Comes
dark place, opening and available when two
ingredients are
to Eggs,
closing the jar every other combined. So Burns the
makes purposeful
day to release gases, for pairings, such as Slower,
sardines with
a few weeks. Then…pickles! yogurt (omega-3s!). the Better
 Winter Squash Frittata
Don’t skip the aioli; it
6 S E RV I N G S
balances the sweet flavors in the frittata.

AIOLI
½ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large egg yolk
1
1
Kosher salt

ASS E M B LY
2
squash (about 1½ lb.)
2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extra-virgin
olive oil
1 tsp. crumbled saffron threads
12 large eggs
¼ cup tarragon leaves, chopped
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cups coarsely torn kale leaves
2 tsp. kosher salt

AIOLI Combine both oils in a measuring

glass. Whisk egg yolk and garlic in a small
bowl. Whisk in 1 tsp. water, then, whisking
constantly, add oils, drop by drop at first
(do not add too quickly). Whisk until oil
is incorporated and aioli holds its shape.
Stir in lemon juice; season with salt.

ASS E M B LY Preheat oven to 300°. Cut

squash in half lengthwise; scoop out seeds
(peel if using butternut). Slice crosswise
¼" thick. Toss squash with 2 Tbsp. oil on a
parchment-lined baking sheet and arrange
in a single layer. Bake until tender (don’t
let them take on any color), 18–20 minutes.
Remove from oven; leave oven on.
Meanwhile, combine saffron and
1 Tbsp. hot water in a small bowl. Let sit
1 minute. Whisk saffron and soaking
liquid, eggs, and tarragon in a large bowl.
Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in an
ovenproof 10" nonstick skillet over
medium. Cook onion, stirring occasionally,
until softened (don’t let them take on any
color), 10–12 minutes. Add kale and cook,
 A sprinkling of toasted pepitas ties together the frittata and aioli. stirring, until beginning to wilt, about
5 minutes. Add reserved squash and toss.
Whisk salt into egg mixture; pour into
This frittata could be made in 15 minutes, but Burns skillet. Cook, stirring often with a rubber
spatula and occasionally pushing away
intentionally takes much longer. She cooks the eggs over from skillet sides to shape and compress,
a low flame, folding the curds over themselves again and until beginning to set and turn golden
again in the skillet to create soft layers like those found in brown on the bottom, about 5 minutes.
Press down on frittata to flatten. Transfer
Japanese-style omelets. The low oven Burns finishes the to oven; bake 20 minutes. Slide frittata
eggs in ensures that those layers remain custardy and light. onto a platter and serve with aioli.

8♦9
 ADVERTISEMENT

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 STEPBY TIPS &
STEPS TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

You Can
Brew Better
Than That
An easy-to-follow
guide to making
a truly delicious cup
of coffee at home

by ALEX DEL ANY

a nd A M I E L S TA N E K
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHELSIE CRAIG .
 Basically

3 4
Great,
and How
O K AY, B U T W H A T Should
TYPE OF BEANS I Store It?
SHOULD I BUY? Please, don’t put
There are two things you should always your coffee in the
freezer! The cold
look for on a bag of coffee: where your messes with the
coffee came from and when it was oils and fibers
that lead to full,
roasted. Transparency is the name of flavorful coffee.
the game, and great coffee roasters Instead, store
the beans in the
will provide as much information about pantry, out of
the farms, regions, and processing direct sunlight,
sealed in the bag
locations as possible. As for the roast they came in.
date, you want beans that were roasted And remember,
purchase only
no more than two weeks ago. Once as much coffee
they pass that stage, they lose flavor, as you’ll drink
in a week or two.
and once they hit a month they’ll taste Buying beans in
like cardboard. Can’t find the roast bulk isn’t doing
you any favors
date? That’s because they don’t want in the taste
Does Grinding you to know it: Put those beans back! department.
Your Own Beans
Really Matter?
Freshly ground pepper is better than
pre-ground pepper, and that same
rule applies to coffee beans. The
minute the beans are ground, the oils
that drive the fruity, toasty, beautiful
flavors start to degrade in quality.
That means that pre-ground coffee Light Roast
leaks flavor as it sits on the grocery
store shelf. For maximum flavor, vs
aroma, and energy, which is exactly Dark Roast
what we want first thing in the morning,
buy your coffee beans whole and
grind them just before you brew.
about the origin or the climate.
2
So...I Guess I Need
a Grinder Then?
LIGHT ROAST

You may be familiar with the blade Because light-

grinder—like a tiny blender with flat roast beans see
less heat, their
blades—but what you actually
moisture level they’re less
want is a burr grinder, preferred by
and unique
coffee aficionados for its ability to
flavor profile
grind beans to a uniform size without is preser ved.
heating them. Baratza is our go-to This leads to
brand—we use the Virtuoso model in bright-tasting ,
our test kitchen, but at $140 its thinner -bodied and a rich,
entry-level Encore unit can’t be beat. brews with
Stuck with a hand-me-down blade fruit y and
grinder? Grind in short bursts, shaking herbal aromas
up and down between pulses, to that reflec t their
keep the pieces even. place of origin. this is your jam.

9 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
 Pour-Over
What ’s the Best Low tech, high return.
A simple filter cone, be it
a classy ceramic one or
an indestructible plastic
workhorse, is the best,
cheapest, and easiest way
to get a clean, coffee-
shop-worthy brew at home.
French Press
No paper filter, no problem.
Just make sure to use a
coarser grind than you
would for drip, and decant
the coffee into a carafe
or thermos as soon as it’s
finished brewing to
prevent a sludgy cup.
AeroPress
A favorite of coffee nerds
on the go, this compact
doodad boasts a super-
quick brew time and
yields a low acidity product.
It works like a plunger,
forcing water and grounds
through a tiny filter.

How to Make Pour-Over Coffee

6
PSA

We get it: You like strong coffee.

1. 2. 3.
Arrange a filter Measure grounds Add boiling
in the cone . Flush into cone and water, pouring in
with boiling place over your a circular motion,
is 16:1, which translates to two water and let it mug . Pour over until liquid drips
drip out fully. just enough out and mug
This prevents any boiling water to is full of freshly
paper y bits from saturate, then wait brewed cof fee .
ending up in 30 seconds for the That wasn ’t so
your cof fee . coffee to “bloom.” hard, was it?

F E B R U A R Y 2 019  9 3
recipe index sourcebook
TRAVEL PLANNER WINDSTAR CRUISES
You know what your
For information, go to
Super Bowl part y needs? AWAY pp. 39–47 windstarcruises.com
This trio of dips with all
ANDIARIO 106 W. Gay St., THE HEALTHYISH ISSUE
the crunchy things. P. 26
West Chester, PA; pp. 50–89
484-887-0919;
andiario.com YES, THERE ARE
BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN
BAVEL 500 Mateo St.,
YOUR TACOS p. 52
Los Angeles; 213-232-4966;
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646-837-6464; atlanyc.com
CELEBRITY CRUISES
COSME 35 E. 21st St., NYC;
For information, go to
celebritycruises.com 212-913-9659; cosmenyc.com
CRYSTAL CRUISES PUTTING THEIR ALL INTO
For information, go to AN ALLDAY CAFÉ p. 62
crystalcruises.com FOLK 1701 Trumbull Ave.,
EITHER/OR 4003 N. Williams Detroit; 313-290-5849;
Ave., Ste. D, Portland, OR; folkdetroit.com
eitherorpdx.com WHO YOU EAT WITH
FIGURE 8 COFFEE PURVEYORS MATTERS AS MUCH AS
1111 Chicon St., Austin; WHAT YOU EAT p. 64
512-953-1061; YARDY For information,
figure8coffeepurveyors.com go to yardy.nyc
APPETIZERS MAIN COURSES MEAT
Pan-Roasted Steak HOLLAND AMERICA LINE HOLISTIC WELLNESS p. 67
Creamy Kimchi Dip VEGE TARIAN For information, go to
p. 26 with Crispy Broccoli WELL FOR CULTURE
Black Lentil and p. 33 hollandamerica.com
French Onion Dip Harissa-Roasted For information, go to
p. 26 Veggie Bowl p. 75 Steak Sandwiches METHODICAL COFFEE wellforculture.com
with Fennel Slaw 101 N. Main St., Greenville,
Parsnip Skordalia Pickled Rice p. 33 MEZCAL: THE DRINK OF
p. 86 Tabbouleh p. 88 SC; 864-735-8407;
Sunny Side Smash methodicalcoffee.com THE MOMENT p. 68
Spicy Cheddar Winter Squash Burger with
Frittata p. 89 NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE HONEY’S 93 Scott Ave.,
Cheese Dip Salsa Verde
p. 26 For information, go to ncl.com Brooklyn; 347-669-1473;
SEAFOOD p. 75
Arctic Char Tostada
enlightenmentwines.com
BEVERAGES Weeknight Beans on PRINCESS CRUISES For
p. 54 Toast p. 24 information, go to princess.com LA CLANDESTINA Álvaro
Avocado Water Obregón 298, Col. Condesa;
p. 55 Brussels Sprout Tacos VEGETABLES REMEDY HOUSE 429 Rhode
with Spicy Peanut +52-55-5212-1871
Mezcal Sour Sauce p. 54 Roasted Winter Island St., Buffalo;
YOLA MEZCAL For information,
p. 68 Squash with Kale 716-250-7724;
Lemony Salmon and go to yolamezcal.com
BREAD Spiced Chickpeas Pipian p. 54 facebook.com
p. 30 /RemedyHouseBuffalo WHAT COMES AFTER
Black Seed Bread CONDIMENTS
RITA 293 Van Brunt St., MILLENNIAL PINK? p. 70
p. 86 POULTRY Salty-Sour
Enchiladas Vinaigrette
Brooklyn; 347-223-4135; LIL’ DEB’S OASIS
BREAKFAST Divorciadas p. 58 ritabk.com 747 Columbia St., Hudson,
p. 58
Hazelnut Granola Grilled Chicken and RONAN 7315 Melrose Ave., NY; 518-828-4307;
and Chia DESSERTS lildebsoasis.com
Quinoa with Matcha Los Angeles; 323-917-5100;
Pudding Bowls Dressing p. 75 CBD Caramel Sauce ronanla.com
p. 63 DON’T CALL IT FAST
Tomato-Braised p. 76

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME.
Winter Squash ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISES FOOD p. 72
Rotisserie Chicken Sweet Cinnamon
Frittata p. 89 p. 34 Tamale p. 58 For information, go to CAVA For locations, go to
royalcaribbean.com cava.com
SAFTA 3330 Brighton Blvd., FARM BURGER For locations,
BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Denver; 720-408-2444; go to farmburger.com
© 2019 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 64, NO. 1. Bon Appétit
(ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine eatwithsafta.com HOMEGROWN For locations,
Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.,
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9 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 019
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 The La st B i te

Kelly Ripa
How do you take your cof fee?

Ripa starts her morning

caffeine routine
with ghee, a t ype of
clarified butter.

THE VITALS

Hometown
Stratford, NJ

KELLY RIPA IS THE MOST revved-up, relentlessly positive person on Years hosting Live
18
morning TV. Her secret? Bulletproof coffee. At 5 a.m., the Live with Wakes up with
Kelly and Ryan cohost combines the “darkest roast coffee” she and Madonna ’s MDNA
Rose Mist
husband, actor Mark Consuelos, can find with a spoonful of Organic Favorite wellness
ILLUSTRATION BY LAUREN TAMAKI

Valley ghee and two shots of espresso and blitzes it all in a blender until product
Jade roller
frothy. “It keeps me from being ravenous,” she explains, as she doesn’t Loves to snack on
Dried apricots
eat anything before the cameras roll. “It’s hard to host a morning show and cherries

when you’re digesting—my brain almost goes to sleep. I’ve tried eating Winds down
Watching Hoarders
before Live and it’s always been a disaster.”  A L Y S E W H I T N E Y with her kids

9 6  F E B R U A R Y 2 019 P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
 5:09 PM - KATE S., BROOKLYN, NY

From the sun-kissed fields of Italy, our vine-ripened

tomatoes have just a pinch of Mediterranean sea salt.
Inspire your passion with their fresh, vibrant flavor.

Passion, since 1899.

MadeWithMutti.com for recipes and store locations

*Source: IRI Infoscan year ending Aug. 2018

© 2018 Mutti USA Inc. Mutti is a registered trademark of Mutti S.p.A.