Warsaw in Your Pocket

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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
Lazienki
The park and palace in
the heart of Warsaw
Culture first
Why Warsaw wants to
be European Capital of
Cul ture 2016
June - July 2011
W
e invite you to the
place of your dreams
with a magic garden which
IeavesanunforgeabIe
impression ...
YouviIInolbe
disappointed.
4
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Arrival & Transport 14
The Basics 19
Culture & Events 22
Where to stay 32
Dining 40
Cafs 77
Nightlife 80
History 96
Sightseeing
What to see 98
Palace of Culture 111
Old Town 112
New Town 114
Praga 116
Chopin 117
Wilanw 120
Jewish Warsaw 124
Treblinka 127
Warsaw Uprising 128
Leisure 132
d 136
Directory
Shopping 138
Directory 144
Maps & Index
City centre map 147
City map 148
Country map 150
Street index 152
Listings Index 153
Feature Index 154
Contents
During the lifetime of this guide, the decision on which
cities will be awarded the title European Capital of Culture
2016 will be made. One of the candidate cities is Warsaw,
and while we as a guidebook covering different cities in
Poland cant really have a preference, we can say that we
like Warsaws pitch. Find out what that is on page 12.
Summers in Warsaw can be blisteringly hot and while on
first impressions it might look like a city of concrete on top
of concrete, it most certainly is not. There is a collection
of fine parks dotted around the central area, the most
popular of which is Lazienki Park just to the south-east of
the centre. Find out where Varsovians head to when the
mercury starts to climb on page 8.
WARSZAWA: u|. Nowy w|at 37 | Te|. 022 827 55 03
www.frey-w|||e.com
v|enna, austr|a
6
Warsaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp.
z o.o. 1999-2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
To arrive during the li fetime of this guide unfamiliar
readers might wonder about the validity of some of the
comments found on websites about the city of Warsaw.
You know the ones that feed the stereotype of a soulless
city, bathed in various shades of grey with little colour to
brighten the decaying communist architecture you might
have thought Warsaw is exclusively made up of. And
those about it being nothing more than a business des-
tination the kind people in suits carrying Samsonites
jet into, have a meeting and then jet straight out of again.
While there is no smoke without fire as our old granny
used to say, the months covered by this guide are a
perfect time to visit to explode those myths. Actually ex-
plode might be the wrong word to use in any description
of Warsaw bearing in mind that the retreating Nazis did
there upmost to do exactly that to anything of beauty this
city had left in 1944/5. A beauti ful city was systemati-
cally dynamited and as i f that wasnt bad enough Soviet
architects then used the blank canvas to run riot with
some of the more unattractive building projects youll
ever have the chance to set your eyes on. But all of the
above, while contributing generously to the citys reputa-
tion abroad are not the whole story. For one the Nazis did
not manage to destroy everything and some of the stuff
the socialist architects came up with has its own, fairly
unconventional, beauty. And the one thing neither could
do was destroy the spirit of this incredible city and its
people the fact that you are able to stand here today
in one of the continents most vibrant cities is testimony
to that. So in this guide, covering a period when the city
winds down for its (prolonged) annual summer holiday,
we highlight some of the more attractive parts of the city
which include surviving, renovated or completely re-built
historical buildings and their surrounding parklands.
Check out the oasis which is Lazienki on page 8 or the
Wilanow Palace on page 120. And take time out from
sitting in one of the citys many summer gardens to visit
some of the citys ever-expanding cultural offering youll
find the state-of-the-art Chopin Museum on page 118,
the Copernicus Science Centre (which our children rated
higher than Londons Science Museum) on page 108 or
take in a concert from our events section on page 22.
Whatever you decide to do, enjoy it and see i f you cant
help explode some of those myths yoursel f.
We welcome comments, criticisms and measured
abuse as always at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket is once again set to break new ground.
Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides
around, we have recently gone Dutch with a move into
the Netherlands. The first issue of s-Hertogenbosch
(Den Bosch) In Your Pocket is currently in the latter
stages of preparation, and will appear soon. To be
amongst the first to find out when the s-Hertogen-
bosch guide is published, and to keep up with all In
Your Pocket news and events, become a fan of In Your
Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket)
and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to
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the address is publisher@inyourpocket.com.
Europe In Your Pocket
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Katarzyna Burzyska,
Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, ukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket, Rentapocket
Cover Darek Senkowski
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8
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
AZIENKI
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the
incomparable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glori-
ous, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of
the jewels in Polands crown, which might explain why half
of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here.
Fear not though, for so big is azienki that it never gives
the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest
of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner
somewhere.
azienki Park (Park azienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Water. The palace was riginally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much of the sur-
rounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisaw
August Poniatowski in 1772, and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Water). It
was as this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, there is much to see in azienki and to make the
best of it you should plan to spend a full day here.
The park is also a major Chopin venue: every summer a
series called Chopin Concerts in the Park take place here,
around the huge Chopin Monument. Concerts are usually
held on Sundays at 12pm and 4pm: check our Culture &
Events section for full details.
One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and
the cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evidence
of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite
grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly
kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of
cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up
to in parks in the western world, azienki takes a very stern
look but dont touch attitude when it comes to its lawns. If
you dont believe us, try sitting on a azienki lawn and see
what happens Q Open from dawn till dusk. Admission free.
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) G- 4, Al.
Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.
uw.edu.pl. You should begin your day at azienki by first
visiting the superb Botanical Gardens, the entrance of which
is on Al. Ujazdowskie, just south of Plac Na Rozdrou. Part of
the University of Warsaw the gardens have the usual collec-
tion of greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species
from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the
stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot
of colour when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred
subject matter of the pretty students from the nearby art
college who set up their easel and paints early doors and
stay until the guards kick them out at sunset. Indeed, given
such cracking scenery it is tempting to find a bench and do
the same. Note that the glasshouses are open to the public
only at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 20:00. Last entrance one hour before closing. Garden
admission 6/3z, Glasshouse/Garden admission 8/4z.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i witynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in azienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII,
and the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the
summer, impressive concerts take place around the statue
almost every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few meters
from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed
to the public) an 1820s replica Greek Temple, built entirely
in wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings
around here, such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple
and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public.
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching azienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good azienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magni ficent Palace on the Water. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access to
all of the parks palaces and museums. A one-day ticket
costs 25/15z, two-days tickets cost 30/17z.
Getting there
Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org
Tast e pol i sh t r adi t i on
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27,
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08
www.ufukiera.pl
; O L V S K L Z [ Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [ P U > H Y Z H ^
asta 27,
8
an i nvi t at i on f r om
10
AZIENKI
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56, tel. (+48) 22 695 19 78. Head next for the Belvedere
Palace residence of the Polish President from 1918 to 1995
(Presidents Aleksander Kwaniewski and Lech Kaczyski
opting to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie) this is once again the Warsaw residence of the
Polish president (now Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694
but thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is predict-
ably off limits. For the best views of the palace and some
outstanding photo opportunities, you should look at it face on
from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design,
complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns.
White House & Orangery (Biay Dom i Oraneria)
G- 4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.
lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as grand as the Belvedere
but equally impressive is the little White House a gorgeous
summer house built in 1774 for the kings sisters, and now
open to the public, displaying a fine collection of period fur-
niture and decorations. A few steps away is the impressive
Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres in
the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host
chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue
for Warsaws wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum of
sculpture. From here head back past the White House, resist
the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the Water and
instead head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast
iron and glass it was designed by Jzef Orowski and opened
in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z. Thu free.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G- 4. Crossing
the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads
along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also
known as the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the
amphitheatre at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions
throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing
Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visi-
tors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance
sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the
setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features
an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas which ferry
up and down the lake. A short trip costs 7/5z per person,
and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait
for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however.
Palace on the Water (Paac na Wodzie) G-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Water is azienkis raison
detre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisaw
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island
that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the
surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The faades are
unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and
are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythologi-
cal figures. The northern faade is relieved by a striking central
portico, while on the southern faade deep central recess
lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum,
almost all of the palace can be visited, including the main recep-
tion room, Solomons Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of
Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History
of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisaw Augustus
in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch
himself as the biblical king. Many of the kings personal rooms
are also open to the public, set in their original context. To get
the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of the
guided tours though you may have to try to join a group or wait
until a group of people have formed.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 till dusk. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z. Thu free.
Guides 90z per group up to 20 people.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
owiectwa i Jedziectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleerw 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Water the Museum of Hunting &
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,
Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
From July open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 3-8/2-5z. Thu free. Y
Mylewicki Palace (Paac Mylewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided
tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored
Mylewicki Palace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef
Poniatowski, the palace is very much as was complete with
original murals, furniture and art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z. Thu free.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12
71 ext.125, www.csw.art.pl. A castle of some description
has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian
Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was
completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herak-
liusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became
the Palace on the Water and gave azienki park its name).
Ujazdowski survived two centuries and score years before
being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to
escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried
to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of azienkis fin-
est buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis
couldnt do the communists could, and though the original
walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the
1950s Polands communist authorities decided to tear down
the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the
site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw
Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to
three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very
best of contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of the good,
the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Polands leading
contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly neces-
sary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and the
caf, Qchnia Artystyczna, which has a terrace whose views
over the park, Warsaw and what appears to be half of Poland
are jaw dropping. One not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,
Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
12
WARSAW CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2016
As we went to press, Warsaw was one of 5 cities which
remained in the running to be named European Capital of
Culture 2016. Were Warsaw to be awarded this title it would
represent an amazing turnaround from the time that In Your
Pocket arrived in Poland in 1999. In the early days of the
guide we noted a posting on the discussion board of a major
international publishers from a traveller asking what he
should do once he arrived in Warsaw. A wit, who clearly knew
the city, suggested taking a taxi from the airport to Warsaw
Central station and buying a ticket to Krakow.
Intrigued with Warsaws application and what it planned to
present to visitors in 2016, we asked Peter Richards, who is
part of the promotional team for the European Capital of Culture
2016 application, to tell us about Warsaws plans for developing
culture in the next few years. The following is his response.
For more than a decade, Warsaw has been investing in hard
infrastructure. New bridges, bike lanes, trams, an airport and
a new metro line all make the city more accessible, alleviating
congestion and allowing citizens better mobility. However the
time has come to invest in cultural infrastructure. Recognized
as a business and financial centre, Warsaw now wants to
improve the leisure possibilities for tourists and residents.
Warsaws cultural scene is gaining momentum and that
momentum has been catalyzed by the citys application
to be awarded the European Capital of Culture 2016 title.
City officials decided to apply for the European Capital
of Culture 2016 title as a way to raise cultures position
within government and to make culture more accessible for
residents. The process of applying for the Capital of Culture
title has forged many new relationships and the process is
allowing culture to take a leading role in community building,
education and improving the livability of the city.
Museums are the latest addi tion to the ci tys cul tural
landscape, as December saw the opening of the Copernicus
Science Centre on the Vistula riverbank. The Copernicus
Centre marked a new era of activity on the previousl y
undeveloped riverbank. Varsovians and tourists now have
a reason to go to the river and the museum will attract
additional businesses, restaurants and cultural activities.
Three additional museums are planned by 2016: The Museum
of the History of Polish Jews (now under construction), the
Museum of Modern Art (to be built adjacent to the Palace of
Culture) and Sinfonia Varsovia (Krzysztof Pendereckis Warsaw
orchestra finally gets its own concert hall in Praga Poudnie).
Locating cultural points can be a challenge as the city is
difficult to navigate. Warsaw lacks good signage and it is
not very user friendly. Museums, restaurants, theatres
and cultural events are dispersed across the city. Many are
unmarked and difficult to find as the city has no defined
centre and many activities occur in back streets, courtyards
and basements of buildings. One of the legacies of being
awarded the European Capital of Culture 2016 title will be
the creation of a new map for Warsaw. Currently tourists and
residents use the Palace of Culture and shopping centres as
orientation points for navigation. However, in five years new
museums and art in public spaces are expected to become
the new orientation points for tourists and residents.
The city is also witnessing the emergence of neighbourhood
identity. Previously there was little reason to stray beyond
the city centre and visit Warsaws various districts as they
lacked any particular cohesion. However with the rise of
caf culture in Warsaw, neighbourhoods now have a focal
point around which dialogue can occur. The cafs conduct
talks, screen films and act as proactive spokespeople for
their communities. The districts of Powile, Saska Kpa and
Praga are the most recent to become active.
Powile is the thin strip of land that runs along the river (below
the Royal Walk). Its green, laid back, coffee and culture-
oriented, small unique cafs rub shoulders with cultural giants:
Copernicus Centre, Chopin Museum and University Library.
On the other side of the river, opposite Old Town, is the pre-war
district of Praga. Traditionally known as a working class district,
Praga is rapidly becoming an alternative artistic district known
for its bars, restaurants and performance spaces located in
19
th
century red brick factories and tenement buildings. Saska
Kpa known for its 1920s modernist architecture is a thriving
restaurant district with child-friendly cafs. Even districts farther
from the centre like Brdno are changing, with the creation
of the Brdno Sculpture Park featuring a unique collection of
pieces from contemporary artists, including Warsaw local Pawe
Althamer and Danish artist Olafur Eliasson.
Summer is one of the best periods for the city as evening
films are shown in Parks Saski, Skaryszewski and Pole
Mokotowskie, outdoor Chopin recitals are held every Sunday
morning in azienki Park and free classical music recitals
occur every Saturday in July and August at the site of the
future Sinfonia Varsovia concert hall on Grochowska 272.
Art in public space is a major theme of the Capital of Culture
appli cation. This summer will see several new events
occurring in public spaces. On June 4
th
the Wycz System
(Disconnect the System) event occurs where inaccessible
spaces around the city are opened up for concerts and
cultural happenings (e.g. parking garages, water treatment
plants, etc). From July 2
nd
until the end of August, the unused
fountain at Plac Na Rozdrou will become occupied by a
wooden structure housing artists, a lounge and cafe in an
action called UFO (Unexpected Fountain Occupation). The
events are hoping to draw new audiences to culture as the
city recognizes that Varsovians need to move from being
inactive inhabitants to active citizens who are fully engaged
and empowered to partake and influence the life of the city.
Winning the European Capital of Culture 2016 title will allow
the city to enrich its image as a creative hub for Europe.
On June 21
st
the jury will announce the finalist from the five
shortlisted candidates.
A new cultural hub will be created on the site of a
redundant fountain at Pl. Na Rozdrozu
The new Sinfonia Varsovia concert hall will regenerate
Praga Poudnie
Saska
Zabkowska
Park Skaryszewski
Park Brdnowski
Stauion
Taigowek
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2016
EUROPEAN
CAPI TAL
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WARSAW
Konesei
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WWW.WARSZAWA2016.PL
*districts of Warsaw
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Whi l e Warsaw i s general l y wel l l i nked wi th both the
outsi de worl d and the rest of Pol and, both road and
rai l networks are undergoi ng maj or regenerati on work,
i n part to ensure smooth connecti ons i n ti me for the
Euro 2012 footbal l champi onshi ps. I mprovement work
al so extends to the ai rport, For the ti me bei ng at l east,
travel l ers more used to the streaml i ned transpor t
l i nks of the west may fi nd both pati ence and nerves
severel y tested.
By Car
Warsaw i s l ocated i n the hear t of the countr y and has
extensi ve road l i nks wi th other maj or Pol i sh ci ti es.
Havi ng sai d that the competi ti on on the roads front
i sn t fi erce. Roads l eadi ng i nto Warsaw tend to be of
decent dual carri ageway standard, though once you
enter the ci ty l i mi ts Warsaw traf fi c can become a seri -
ous probl em - parti cul arl y duri ng the week. Most maj or
hotel s are l ocated i n the central area and you shoul d
be headi ng i n most cases for the Central Trai n Stati on
(Dworzec Warszawa Central na) and i ts nei ghbour, the
Pal ace of Cul ture (PKi N). Parki ng i n the central area i s
general l y avai l abl e on-street where there are standard
parki ng charges payabl e at roadsi de machi nes. Most
maj or hotel s wi l l of fer some form of of f-road guarded
parki ng. Be warned that Pol i sh roads and Pol i sh dri v-
ers are not the best especi al l y i f you have dri ven i n
western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had
the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination
of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume
of di fferent traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no
consi derati on for anybody el se resul t i n the common
sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police
seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and dont
be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cut-
ting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1
championship.
The speed l i mi t i s 50km/hr i n ci t i es ( 60km/hr
between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outsi de urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carri ageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. Seat bel ts must be worn at al l ti mes
and i t i s i l l egal for dri vers to use hand-hel d mobi l e
phones. Fol l owi ng the l etter of the l aw al l cars shoul d
be equi pped wi th a fi rst ai d ki t, warni ng tri angl e, fi re
exti ngui sher, rear mud fl aps and ri ght and l eft hand
outsi de mi rrors. Fl outi ng the rul es wi l l cost you 200z
(for usi ng a mobi l e), 100z (not weari ng a seat bel t) and
up to 500z for speedi ng. The l egal l i mi t for dri nk dri v-
i ng i s 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put si mpl y, i f youre
dri vi ng, don t dri nk.
EU ci ti zens may use thei r home dri vi ng l i censes as
l ong as they are val i d, however ci ti zens of countri es
t hat di dn t rati f y t he Vi enna Conventi on ( t sk, t sk
Austral i a and Ameri ca) wi l l fi nd thei r l i censes i nval i d
(though that hasn t stopped anyone we know from
dri vi ng thei r gi rl fri ends car). Carr y your l i cense and
passpor t at al l ti mes when dri vi ng. For roadsi de as-
si stance cal l tel . 981.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofitel War-
saw Victoria Hotel).
Many of the great things we love about Warsaw are not
immediately obvious, especially to the first time visitor,
though we know at least one local who had also failed
to notice a couple of these titbits we spotted while out
researching this issue of the guide:
Street Signs (1)
Every single street in Warsaw is clearly marked by a
number of well-positioned and highly visible street signs.
It is almost impossible to go more than 100 metres in
Warsaw without knowing what street you are on. Whats
more, the signs are almost always colour coded: each
area of the capital has its own colour. As a visitor you are
most likely to see blue signs (for the south and south-
central part of the city) and brown (for the northern part
of the city centre, and Old Town).
Street Signs (2)
Theres far more helpful information on those street signs
than the mere street name, however. If you look closely,
the vast majority of street signs also include the numbers
of the building in the block to which they are attached.
Whats more, there will often be an arrow showing which
way the numbers climb. As anyone looking for ul. Mars-
zalkowska 135 or such like will know, Warsaws central
boulevards are incredibly long, and knowing which way
to go makes life much, much easier. Whoever it was who
decided to invest in the street signs (and they have been
up for some time now, certainly for more than a decade)
we hope that they became rich and famous. (We should
also point out that there are loads of older style street
signs and building numbers around. Many of these are
gems from the past, often in the form of lamps over old
apartment blocks. One day, we hope a keen photogra-
pher with trainspotting tendencies will collect them all
together in what would be our dream coffee-table book).
Tram Stops at Intersections
Much in the same way that arrows on Warsaws street
signs have prevented us walking kilometres in the wrong
direction, so a similarly cunning little arrow on the tram
system has saved us from getting on the wrong tram
hundreds of times. How? Easy: i f you look closely at
tram stops at intersections (where the tracks go in two
or even three directions), the numbers of the trams which
stop there will be grouped according to the direction they
travel in. Those which go straight on will be listed under
an arrow pointing straight on, those which turn right will
be accompanied by an arrow pointing right, and so on.
Again, hardly complicated stuff, but ingenious, and a
genuine case of travellers friend.
Three useful Warsaw tips
Alina Zienowicz, pl.wikipedia.org
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
June - July 2011 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
By Bus
Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from the
Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa
Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange in the main hall. An ATM
(bankomat) operated by PEKAO bank can be found in the main
hall to the left of Kasa 1. There is no Tourist Info point, for the
closest youll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture,
Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). You can leave any
bags you have at left luggage by following the signs to skrytki
bagaowe where youll find lockers (9z for a large bag for 24hrs,
6z for a small one), as well as multi-lingual explanations on how
to use the contraptions. There are five payphones located in one
of the side corridors though youll need to buy phone cards to
use them. You can do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in
the main hall. Youll also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards
and transport cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the
entrance and will charge you about 20z to the centre. Refuse
a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer
you a lift. The bus running to the centre is found right across a
busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing
there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically
from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec
PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its
conclusion, turn right again - youll see two stairwells leading to
the surface. Take the left one and presto, theres your bus stop.
Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw.
To get to Central Station take bus number 127, 130 or 517. At
night youll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes ap-
proximately 15 minutes so buy a 2z ticket valid for 20 minutes.
Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warsza-
wa Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48)
703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Q Ticket Office Open
05:30-22:00.
By Plane
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka
Chopina) has seen numerous changes in recent times, in
particular the opening of Terminal 2, a glass and steel gi-
ant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older Terminal 1.
Spacious and user friendly the new terminal now handles
almost all incoming and most outgoing traffic.
Terminal 2 is equipped with a Tourist Info stand, ATMs,
exchange offices and kiosks.
Jumping in a taxi is the easiest way to get into the city, and
there is a taxi rank right outside Terminal 2 from which three
certified companies are allowed to operate: SAWA, Ele Taxi and
Super Taxi. The fare to the city centre will cost around 25-40
zoty, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks operating in
the area - theyll charge some three or four times that. Journey
time takes between 15 and 30 minutes depending on traffic.
Cheapskates can get bus number 175 to the city centre
(which goes past the main Central Train Station) - find bus
stops in front of arrivals at Terminal 1 and Terminal 2. Tickets
cost 2.80z and you no longer need an extra ticket for bag-
gage. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding in one
of the yellow electronically operated kasowniks. Buses run
frequently between 04:50 and 23:00 with journey time taking
approximately 25 minutes.
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy
im. Fryderyka Chopina) ul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel.
(+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.
Warsaw Shuttle tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.
warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport
transfer services at competitive prices from 69PLN per run.
Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance
to book.
16
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
side you come up on you will be one level below ground level
and the ticket hall. To change money look for a Kantor (money
exchange) sign. Some of these are open round the clock, and
there is also a Western Union office if you need emergency
cash. ATMs (bankomats) can be found scattered around with
several in both the passageways and the main hall (hala gowna).
Due to a clean up taking place ahead of the EURO 2012 foot-
ball finals, tourist info can no longer be found in the main hall
and so you will have to cross over to the Palace of Culture
across the road and look for the i sign (Open 09:00 - 21:00).
They can provide you with maps etc. Tickets for the public
transport system can be bought from most of the newspaper
kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor
that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagau,
where stewards will look after your bag in return for 7.10z
per day. Coded lockers are also available - 9z for 24hrs for
a big bag, 6z for a small one. Payphones can be found in the
main hall with cards available from all the kiosks. Connect
to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid
cards from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by
passing via tunnels under the main road youll find bus and tram
stops though once you enter the signs are more of a hinderance
than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially
sanctioned ELE taxis can be found outside the main entrance.
The days of ordering train tickets in fractured Polish are over. Now
open by the Relay shop close to the arrivals/departure board is
an office run by Polish rail (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl). Open
from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual staff here can search for the
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic
tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
A huge choice of outlets selling food and drink are available
though quality is questionable. Head to Coffee Heaven for a
range of good coffee, hot and cold snacks which are available
to take-away. McDonalds can also be found by following one
of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions in the
Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway
and offers a far better place to sit and wait than the station
itsel f, as does the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre.
Dont be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as a
drop-in centre by Warsaws homeless population - while
most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk
and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the
ticket booths are to a woman mono-lingual, the tramps in
Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul.
Kijowska 16, tel. (+48) 22 473 72 97. Q Open 24hrs.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 474 57 42. Q Open 24hrs.
By Train
Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what
it says on the tin: central. What it isnt is easy to navigate. From
alighting the train you should take one of the two facing escala-
tors in the centre of the platform which will lead you up into one
of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever
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17
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Car rental
Budget ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Court-
yard by Marriott Hotel, Okcie Airport), tel. (+48) 668
66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.com.pl. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Hertz ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also on ul. Nowogrodzka 27
(F-3). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Avis ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48
72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide
short-term and long-term rentals,
chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. Theres
over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning,
air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety.
Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also on Al. Jero-
zolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel) and ul. opuszaska 12a.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Europcar ul. wirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport),
tel. (+48) 22 650 25
64, www.europcar.pl.
One of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers
rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and
long term) that will suit all needs (15 different categories
of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish
airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar
creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual
mobility needs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Oko-
powa 47, tel. (+48)
22 636 63 93,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
navigation systems are also available. Special rates
offered to those who order through the Joka website,
and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions.
Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Sun open
on request.
Sixt ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 511
15 55, www.sixt.pl. One of
the worlds largest and oldest
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. Theres
even a fleet of limousines if youre interested. Vehicles
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,
InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
18
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Public Transport
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram
system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited,
metro system running from north to south. Over 1,200 buses
operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00
and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every
hour. All night buses display the letter N, followed by a two digit
number. Fast buses (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH
logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now
also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English
dotted around the city.To save yourself the hassle of work-
ing out which ticket you need or trying to buy to explain it to
the lady in the kiosk, we recommend that you pick up the
Warsaw Tourist Card from one of the Tourist Information
points at the airport, old town or Palace of Culture. Free travel
on the citys public transport system is included in the price.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 2.80z.
However, you can now also buy cheaper tickets if you are
travelling off-peak - they cost 2.40z. If youre travelling to
the further reaches of Warsaw youll be needing a ticket that
covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 4.20z. Note
that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. Tickets are
also available for specific time periods and come valid for
20, 40, 60 and 90 minutes. These are priced at 2z, 2.80z,
4z and 6z. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 9 or 14z if
travelling through both zones. Three day tickets cost 16z, or
24z for both zones. Finally a weekly ticket will set you back
32z, or 48z if you need it for the two zones. Children up
to the age of 7 years travel for free (have proof of age ID
handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of
an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy)
which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though these will be
rounded up to the nearest figure. Once youve got a ticket you will
need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activat-
ing the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be
done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an
extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes
ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 150z
fines for those without valid tickets. They often dont look very
official and you are within your rights to request identification,
or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.
Taxis
The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver
would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but its still
always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the
street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their services in the
arrivals hall at the airport; weve heard plenty of horror stories.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on their
switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run firm,
can boast the most reliable reputation. But you wont find
many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Mar-
riott tower side of the central station; its the second row
of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you
from A to B without a detour through the countryside then
by all means, feel free
Ele Taxi tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi OK tel. (+48) 22 196 23, www.halotax-
iok.pl.
Merc Taxi tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.merctaxi.pl.
MPT tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, www.sawataxi.
com.pl.
Super Taxi tel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl.
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. For many their
stay in Warsaw will begin in one of its most brutal buildings:
Central Train Station or Centralna as it is known locally.
Financed by massive Western loans the monster was
completed on December 5, 1975, officially opened just ten
days before the 7th rally of the Polish Communist Party.
Guest of honour was Soviet leader comrade Brezhnev,
and a special entrance and reception room were built for
him. Built in a rush, primarily by soldiers of the Polish army,
the structure was erected at lightning speed so as to be
completed to coincide with Brezhnevs visit; although the
site of the station was officially picked in 1946, work on the
design would only begin in 1971. It was built at breakneck
pace in under 1,100 days, and as such vital technical
tests were never conducted - the station would be under
constant renovation for the next ten years.
Nonetheless, it was seen as an architectural showpiece
of the time, so much so that it was awarded the groovy
sounding Mr Warsaw prize for architecture in 1975. Over
the next few years coachloads of peasants were bussed in
to marvel at it, and fashion shows frequently held in the main
concourse. Designed by Arseniusz Romanowicz, Centralna
was constructed using 12,500 tons of steel, 8,000m2 of
glass and 53,000m2 of concrete. Floor beams, automatic
doors and metal elements used in the faade were imported
from Switzerland, escalators from Paris and Brussels and
the electronic clocks from Italy. Featuring four 300 metre
long underground platforms Centralna touted the first
moving ramp in Poland, as well as the first escalator not
produced in the USSR (it was in fact built in France to an
American design). Its halcyon days also saw the construc-
tion of a now non-existent Italian marble fountain.
Today it stands somewhat at odds with the gleaming
21st century super structures that surround it. Although
that is set to change.
Despite a large number of the local population wanting
to see the whole thing dynamited off the face of Warsaw
(partly because of its communist connections, partly
because they considered it an eyesore) it was decided to
give the old girl a facelift. The first part of that was com-
pleted in November 2010 and is now possible to compare
the cleaned up south side with the still to be renovated
northern side. In addition to the clean up and fixing of all
public areas, the whole building will be adapted for the
needs of the disabled, the passenger visual and audio
communication systems will be modernised and the
whole station will be made suitable for the millions of
passengers who use it each year with more places to sit,
a new modern food court (over the current ticket offices),
adding exhibition space as well as making the whole
complex part of a central transport hub.
Costing 47 million zlotys and pencilled in for completion
before the EURO 2012 championships, we have to say
were delighted they decided to keep what is an astonish-
ing legacy to Polands communist past. Q Open 24hrs.
Warszawa Centralna
Courtesy of PKP
19
BASICS
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public payphone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the call operator.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory
section. If youve run out of money, however, then silly you.
No embassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will rest
on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many
exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such trans-
actions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the
Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Jaywalking
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularly if you are
from a country which has no (or doesnt respect) jaywalking
laws, is that of a crowd of people standing obediently at a
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it
is Polands longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdask
(Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2009)
Poland - 38.135.876
Warsaw - 1.709.781
Krakw - 754.624
d - 747.152
Wrocaw - 632.162
Pozna - 557.264
Gdask - 455.581
Katowice - 309.621
Sopot - 38.821
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Astana, Berlin, Budapest, Chicago, Dsseldorf, Grozny,
Hague, Hamamatsu, Hanoi, Harbin, Kyiv, Moscow, Ile-de-
France, Istambul, Riga, Rio de Janeiro, Seoul, St. Etienne,
St. Petersburg, Taipei, Tel Aviv, Toronto, Vienna, Vilnius
Facts & Figures
City Card
www.warsawcard.
com. The War saw
City government has
a touri st card call ed
strangely enough The
Warsaw Tourist card.
As with tourist cards
the world over this gives you either discounted or free
entry into a majority of the citys museums plus free
travel on the citys transit network of trams, buses
and metro. Also available with this card are discounts
to many galleries, hotels, recreation facilities, shops,
bars and restaurants around the city. For a full list
of places which accept the card please check www.
warsawcard.com. The card is available from tourist
information points around the city including the airport
and Palace of Culture and sell for 20z for the 24hr
card. We have marked participating members wi th
this symbol Y.
City Card
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
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Rainfall
Temperature
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. A work
of art produced before 1945 is classified as a cultural good
and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If
the gallery or shop cant supply the zawiadczenie (permis-
sion) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewdzki
Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office). If a book
was printed before 1945, youll need permission from the
National Library to take it out of Poland.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they dont have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
20
BASICS
Internet cafes
Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center),
tel. (+48) 22 620 80 32. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. 6z/hour, 10z/2 hours, 18z/4 hours.
Cyber Cafe ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by
Marriott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyard.
com/wawcy. Polands best internet cafe. Seating sixty
people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wire-
less access, as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw
cafes to shame. 20z per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
inf@cafe British Council A-3, Al. Jerozolimskie
59, tel. (+48) 22 695 59 00, www.britishcouncil.
org. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:30. Closed
Sun. Free.
Post
Central Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warsza-
wa 1) A-3, ul. witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22
505 33 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warszawa 120)
A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Central Train Station),
tel. (+48) 22 825 77 18, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Public Phones
Public phones The public pay phone is making a
comeback, and the state telephone company TPSA
have been busy setting up glass clad booths around
the centre. These come in three styles, round silver,
square silver and yellow, the last of which have the
capacity to send e-mails and text messages. While
some accept cash most will be card operated, for which
end youll need to purchase a card from either a kiosk or
your hotel reception. Cards are worth 15, 30 or 60 units,
and are priced at 9, 15 and 24zl respectively. A call to
London using pre-paid cards will cost from 2.14 to 3.21zl
per minute, depending on which card youve chosen.
An additional SMS-enabled card can be purchased for
5z, providing the user with the capability of sending 20
text messages. For cheap international calls there are
many different calling cards available, the most popular
being Telegrosik (available at most kiosks, gas stations,
supermarkets and post offices) and Telerabat (available
at Kolporter kiosks and the post office).
Mail & Phones
crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity
has extra effect if you are aware of how little Poles respect
the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a
survival of the fittest. The reason for the obedience of this
particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra
Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50z fine for crossing a
road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine
when the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt
by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and
your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on
the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,
will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as
coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes
come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 zotys, and
there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One zoty equals 100 groszy,
and they come divided into 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign screaming kantor and you will also be
able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card.
A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your
home country or the ATM, although for obvious reasons be very
wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist
sights - the rates in these arent designed to favour the tourist.
The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years
and the value of the dollar has nearly halved, while you will be
getting 25-40% less zoty for your euros and sterling than a
couple of years back. Having said that Poland, if not Warsaw,
remains comparatively cheap to mainstream Western Europe.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-
ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Safety
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The
brevity and dexterity of Warsaws criminal community has led
to a spate of thefts from unattended coats. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Warsaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi
gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of May 24, 2011
based on 1 = 3.95z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.90 z 2.25
Snickers 1.39 z 0.35
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.00 z 5.57
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 z 0.71
0.5ltr beer (bar) 10.00 z 2.53
Loaf of white bread 2.89 z 0.73
20 Marlboros 11.80 z 2.99
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.40 z 1.37
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.80 z 0.71
Market values
21
BASICS
around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned
state company MPT (tel. 12 19191) is possibly the best bet,
and their switchboard features English speaking operators.
The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train sta-
tion are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaws
right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go
reputation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge
a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how
much cash youve already spent in the establishment. This
is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 22/24.
Water
Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the qual-
ity of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the
water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recom-
mend that you use bottled water which is widely available
and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are
ywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Naczowianka.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language smarts
June 12, 2011 Pentecost Sunday
June 23, 2011 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
also Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1 New Years Day
January 6 Three Kings
April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday
April 9, 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
National Holidays
PLN US$ Euro Pound
2.80z = $1 3.94z = 1 4.52z = 1
1 z $0.36 0.25 0.22
2 z $0.71 0.51 0.44
3 z $1.07 0.76 0.66
4 z $1.43 1.02 0.88
5 z $1.79 1.27 1.11
6 z $2.14 1.52 1.33
7 z $2.50 1.78 1.55
8 z $2.86 2.03 1.77
9 z $3.21 2.28 1.99
10 z $3.57 2.54 2.21
20 z $7.14 5.08 4.42
50 z $17.86 12.69 11.06
100 z $35.71 25.38 22.12
150 z $53.57 38.07 33.19
200 z $71.43 50.76 44.25
250 z $89.29 63.45 55.31
1 000 z $357.14 253.81 221.24
Quick Currency Convertor
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
With around 30 theatres and 60 cinemas, Warsaw is un-
doubtedly the cultural centre of Poland. These are supple-
mented by a myriad of festivals as diverse as the Chopin,
Jewish Culture and the Warsaw International Film Festival.
The citys skyline, until recent shiny-squeaky additions, was
long dominated by the spendidly over the top Palace of Cul-
ture and Science with the famous Congress Hall downstairs.
Over the years it has hosted everyone from Marlene Dietrich
to, in 1967, the Rolling Stones. Other places definitely worth
exploring include the famous club Stodoa, lots of cutting
edge concerts and the like, as well as the Palladium for more
of a cabaret type evening.
Art galleries
Klima Bocheskas Gallery (Galeria Klimy
Bocheskiej) H-1, ul. Zbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
601 71 35 11, www.bochenskagallery.pl.Q Open 12:00
- 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Projekt Kordegarda C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 3, tel.
(+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Zachta National Gallery of Art (Zachta Nar-
odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 827 58 54, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
Cinemas
Cinema 5D Extreme (Kino 5D Extreme) Fort Wola,
ul. Poczyska 4 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 498 66 77.Q
Tickets 10-20z. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Kino.Lab G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki
Wspczesnej), ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71
ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.QTickets 10-12z. Box office
open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open
30 minutes before the showtime.
Luna F-4, ul. Marszakowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621
78 28, www.kinoluna.pl.QBox office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 7-18z.
Multikino Zote Tarasy A-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48)
22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60
(Ursynw). Q Box office open from 15 minutes before the
first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets
14-33z.
Orange IMAX ul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48)
22 550 33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from
30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 21-33z.
Cultural Centres
History Meeting House (Dom Spotka z Histori)
C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh.
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts
(Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul.
Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 39 62, www.mckis.
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12
71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
26.06 Sunday
Musical Landscapes of Czesaw Miosz
Witold Lutosawski Concert Studio, ul. Modzelews-
kiego 59. Taking place just a few days before 100th
anniversary of the birth of Czesaw Miosz, this concert is
entitled Musical Landscapes of Czesaw Miosz is a pre-
miere concert of compositions by respected Polish com-
posers. There will be songs, accompanied by a chamber
orchestra, based on the poets poems and instrumental
compositions inspired by the life and works of the Nobel
prize winner. The jubilee compositions were written by Ro-
mual Twardowski, Joanna Bruzdowicz, Marek ebrowski,
Ryszard Osada, Jarosaw Siwiski and Barbara Kaszuba.
The artists come from all over the musical spectrum and
the pieces will be an interesting mix. The performers are
Jarosaw Brk (baritone) and orchestra Warsaw Camerata
directed by Pawe Kos-Nowicki. Before the concert starts
at 19.00, theres an additional event at 17:30 in the form of
a panel meeting with the composers, where you will have
the chance to find out about their inspiration and how the
poetry of Milosz has influenced them. Q Concert starts
at 19:00. Tickets 10/15z. Available before the concert.
Musical Landscapes of Czesaw Miosz
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki - Op-
era Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00- 19:00. Closed from July 7. Tickets 20-130z.
Philharmonics
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.
filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 20-90z.
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Closed from July. Tickets 25-90z.
Och-Theatre ul. Grjecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22
589 52 01, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open
12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-120z.
Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel.
(+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q Box
office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun. Closed from July 10. Tickets 90-240z.
Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza
omnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22
632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00-
19:00. Closed from July 17. Tickets 18-60z.
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89
98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Closed from June 23. Tickets 35-170z.
Warsaw Chamber Opera
(Warszawska Opera Kam-
eralna) A-1, Al. Solidarnoci
76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22
40, www.operakameralna.
pl. The Warsaw Chamber Opera
was founded in 1961 by Stefan
Sutkowski, who has served as
its Managing and Artistic Direc-
tor ever since. The companys
inaugural production, performed
on the 4th September 1961,
was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986
the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed
building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes
to the acoustic sound created. The big news is that this
year sees the Opera celebrating its 50th birthday. From
September onwards there will be lots of special events
to look forward to, watch this space. First up will be a
very important festival of contemporary opera. July will
see the opera spreading its wings and staging shows
away from home as it were. Indeed, they were the first
company to stage an opera in Oman, recently performing
Mozarts Finta Giardiniera in Muscat.
At present the Warsaw Chamber Opera consists of
two directors, two designers, seven conductors, over
75 soloists, and two small-size symphony orchestras.
It also has the period-instruments ensemble Musicae
Antiquae Collegium Varsoviense, a Mime Group and the
40-strong Chamber Choir.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval
mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Clas-
sical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by
Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary
composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular
concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic
music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber
Opera established the Research and Documentation
Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research,
publ i cati on, per formance and recordi ng of newl y-
discovered works by Polish composers.QBox office
open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets 20-130z.
15.06 Wednesday - 26.07 Tuesday
XXI Mozart Festival
A-2, Warsaw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarnoci 76b,
tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna.
pl. If you are a fan of classical music and planning a
visit to Warsaw in June or July, you could do a lot worse
than check out this years Mozart festival. Part of the
Warsaws cultural landscape since 1991, the 200th
anniversary of the composers death, apparently its the
one festival in the world to bring together all twenty of
Mozarts operas. Fans will also be treated to oratorios,
symphonies, concertos, ballet and a few other works.
Mainly taking place in the WCA building, there will also
be events in the Royal Castle, B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, as
well as chamber concerts in Wilanw Palace, ul. S.K.
Potockiego 10/16 (Wilanw Palace) and azienki Park,
ul. Agrykoli 1. Q Full schedule available at www.oper-
akameralna.pl. Tickets 30-120z. Available at Warsaw
Chamber Operas box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun depending on repertoire).
Warsaw Chamber Opera
05.08.2011
8.00 pm
ERGO ARENA, Gdansk/Sopot
Erykah Badu
Zd
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
break came in 1965 when he replaced Clapton in the Yarbirds.
He left the band after two years to form The Jeff Beck Group
along with Rod Stewart and Ron Wood. Active on and off for
years, he slowly disappeared from the scene, but came back
in 1999 with the album Who Else! mixing rock with techno and
that style has remained with him since. Q Concert starts at
19:30. Tickets 50-300z. Available at Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
22.06 Wednesday
Carlos Santana
H-4, Legia Stadium, ul. azienkowska 3. Grammy win-
ning Carlos Augusto Alves Santana brings his blend of salsa,
rock, blues and jazz to Poland to promote the album Guitar
HeavenThe Greatest Guitar Classics Of All Times.
Named by Rolling Stone as the 15th best guitarist of all time,
this promises to be a great night out for old timers and with
3 z from each ticket sold going to the Milagro foundation
that Santana started with his wife, feel good about yourself
too as well as have a good time. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 165-365z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik,
ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
26.06 Sunday
Mazovia in the Crown - Ode to Joy
Duew, Manor house. Mazovia in the Crown is a series of
concerts set in the finest in medieval, Renaissance, and Ba-
roque architecture that the region has to offer. This particular
concert happens in a manor house in the village of Duew,
50km from Warsaw. It includes pieces by Bach, Handel, Cho-
pin, Mozart, Verdi and Beethoven performed by the Varsovia
Brass Quintet. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free.
30.06 Thursday
Bonnie Tyler
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com. Welsh songstress Bonnie Tyler turns 50 this year, wow.
This is the only Polish gig on the tour so if you want to hear
Total Eclipse of the Heart, or Holding Out for a Hero,
this is your only chance.QConcert starts at 20:00. Tickets
90-310z. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
La Playa in Warsaw ul. Wybrzee Helskie 1/5,
www.laplaya.pl. The La Playa Music Bar has been
opened for the 6th time and the good news is that
its for the whole summer. Offering a combination of a
unique music club, situated at the Vistula riverside, its
an attractive alternative place if youre in the capital this
summer. It offers possibility to spend time outside, play
beachball, frisbee and badminton tournaments, use the
skimboard track or just chill out on a deck chair. So give
yourself a day off at the beach, relax with a drink and
listen to chillout music and take in the view of the old
town over the river.
Theres club music every evening with Polish DJs and
world stars like LTJ Bukem on June 22nd. On June 4th
theres a skimboard competition. Meanwhile on July
16th theres the fourth edition of the Samba Festival.
Every Sunday at 16:00 the club invites us for Fiesta en
La Playa - a dance party with Cuban salsa, LA Mambo
and a mix of bachata and Kizomba. Its easy to get there
too - if your on the old town side of the Vistula, just use
the Pliszka ferry crossing the river.
La Playa in Warsaw
Concerts
15.06 Wednesday
Ringo Starr and his All Star Band
com/pl. Ringo formed his All Star Band in 1989, but for
every tour he takes different musicians. This time hes on
the road with Edgar Winter, Gary Wright, Rick Derringer,
Richard Page (Mr. Mister), Wally Palmar (Romantics) and
Gregg Bissonette. As all Beatles fans can tell you, Lennon
and McCartney tried to write one song suitable for Ringos
vocal skills resulting in Yellow Submarine and With Little
Help of My Friends, so expect Ringo on the mike for a while.
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 200-750z.
19.06 Sunday
Roxette
Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6a, www.livenation.pl. The
dynamic duo, Marie Fredriksson and Per Gessle, are back
after the vocalists battle with cancer. Its all a bit of a, very
pleasant, surprise: about a year ago Gessle said he thought
theyd never tour and record again. This albums concert is
part of a tour taking in four continents which kicked off in
glamourous Kazan and will be about show casing the new
album. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets121-679z. Avail-
able at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
21.06 Tuesday
Jeff Beck
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. One of the truly grand
not-so-old men of rock will play as part of the Warsaw Jazz
Days festival. Beck became interested in jazz at a very young
age and soon was working as a session musician. His big
25
CULTURE & EVENTS
24.07 Sunday
Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club feat. Omara
Portuondo
com/pl. A must for any fan of the music from the film. A lot
of the original stars, Gonzales and Ferrer, are no longer with
us, but all those performing here played at the self-same
club and the atmosphere and music are sure to be electric.
The vocalist for tonight will be Latin Music Grammy winner,
Omara Portuondo. Along with the mighty Compay Segundo he
sung one of BVSCs most recognisable songs Veinte aos.
Knock out. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 100-300z.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Exhibitions
29.11 Monday 2010 - 29.10 Saturday 2011
Man - Extraordinary Evolution
B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1. An
exhibition at Gallery 30 which is, hey hey, on 30th floor of
the Palace of Culture and Science. Its fun science with lots
of 3D animations, presenting our ancestors, reconstructed
skulls, bones and skeletons. There are drawings and notes
from books by Darwin and Wallace as well as photographs
and live zoological exhibits like iguanas, various types of frogs
and insects. Cool. Q Admission 20/15z. Group ticket for
more than 10 people 12z per person. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
01.05 Sunday 2011 - 30.04 Monday 2012
Contemporary Art Exhibition
D-7, Novotel Garden Gallery, Novotel Warszawa Airport,
ul. 1 Sierpnia 1, tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00. This will be the
second contemporary sculpture exhibition organised in the
garden of the Novotel Airport hotel, in cooperation with the
Warsaw branch of The Association of Polish Artists (ZPAP).
There will be over 50 works by 33 artists including Magda
Abakanowicz, Zbigniew Maleszewski, Gustaw Zema on show.
In the evening the pieces will be illuminated and hotel guests
can visit the exhibition even after 9pm if they ask reception.
Q Admission free. Open 06:00 - 21:00.
14.05 Saturday - 14.08 Sunday
Medieval Treasure Troves of Greater Poland
A-2, The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum, ul. Duga
52, tel. (+48) 22 504 48 00, www.pma.pl. When this
exhibition was previously presented in Legnica it was such a
success that the Archaeological Museum decided to bring it
to the capital. It contains over 2000 medieval exhibits, mostly
coins from the collections of dozens of Polish museums.
Q Admission 10/5z, Sun free. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri.
Festivals
10.06 Friday
Sonisphere Festival
Bemowo Airport, ul. Powstacw lskich, www.soni-
spherefestivals.com. The 2nd Polish Sonisphere Festival
wont disappoint metalheads. After last years Yank fest
which included Metallica, Megadeath, Slayer and Anthrax,
this year sees metal bringing it all back home in the shape
of Iron Maiden and Motorhead - Dont forget the Joker!.
Mastodon will be opening proceedings and the bill is filling
up with Hunter, Killing Joke, Volbeat and Made of Hate re-
cently confirmed. Q Tickets 198-880z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Sunday Chopin Concerts in Royal azienki
Park G-4, Royal Lazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1, www.
estrada.com.pl. Great pianists from all over the world
have been coming to The Royal azienki Park to perform
Chopin every year since 1959 - so its deep in the cultural
tradition of the capital city. The Fryderyk Chopin Society
contracts pianists for the whole season and this year
includes names like Lidia Grytychtowna , Paolo Vairo,
Louis Alvanis, Joanna Rewska, Eduard Stan, Joanna
Michna, Rinko Kobayashi, Karol Radziwonowicz, Filip
Wojciechowski, Joanna awrynowicz and Marek Bracha
There are two concerts in the shadow of the Chopin
monument, the first at 12.00, the second at 16.00 -
each with an audience of 4000 people. The season of
concerts starts in the middle of May and lasts till the
end of September. Q Concerts take place every Sun
at 12:00 and 16:00. Admission free.
Sunday Chopin Concerts
Warsaw Chamber Opera is financed by
MAZOVIA VOIVODESHIP GOVERNMENT
Co-organiser
of the Festival
Strategic
partner:
Media patronage
(Advance)sales and reservations:
Warsaw Chamber Opera Box Office, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. 22 831 22 40, tickets@operakameralna.pl
open Mon.Fri. 9.00 a.m.7.00 p.m. & Sat.Sun. 4.00 p.m.7.00 p.m.
www.bilety.operakameralna.pl
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
Managing and Artistic Director Stef an Sutkowski
THE TWENTY-FIRST
MOZART FESTIVAL IN WARSAW
15 June 26 July 2011
1961 G. B. PERGOLESI LA SERVA PADRONA 1962 T. BAIRD SONETY MIOSNE I PIENI
TRUWERW 1963 J. HAYDN LO SPEZIALE ANONIM AMFITRYJON POLSKI, CZYLI ODPRAWA
BOGW GRECKICH G. C. MENOTTI TELEFON, CZYLI MIO WE TROJE 1964 K. KURPISKI
SZARLATAN, CZYLI WSKRZESZENIE UMARYCH 1966 G. P. TELEMANN PIMPINONE 1967
W. A. MOZART BASTIEN UND BASTIENNE 1968 D. CIMAROSA IL MAESTRO DI CAPELLA 1969
R. JANUSZKIEWICZ PARNASSUS REFORMOWANY, CZYLI APOLLO PRAWODAWCA 1971 G. PAISIELLO
LA SERVA PADRONA ANONIM MISTERIUM MKI CZOWIECZEJ BERNARDINI-M. DI CAPUA
LE NOZZE DI AMORE E PSICHE 1972 S. MONIUSZKO KARMANIOLA, CZYLI OD SASA DO LASA
M. RIMSKI-KORSAKOW MOZART I SALIERI 1973 J. MAKSYMIUK IN MEDIO VERO OMNIUM
RESIDET SOL G. DONIZETTI DON PASQUALE 1974 ANONIM GRA O HERODZIE 1975 A. BLOCH
Z GWIAZD W CUDOBUDZIE G. M. ORLANDINI GRACZ M. KAMIESKI TRADYCJA DOWCIPEM
ZAATWIONA J. ELSNER ECHO W LESIE A. BLOCH ZWIERCIADO G. B. PERGOLESI
IL MAESTRO DI MUSICA W. A. MOZART COS FAN TUTTE 1976 W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
GIARDINIERA J. MAKSYMIUK POZA SOWAMI J. OFFENBACH DWAJ LEPCY, ZARCZYNY
PRZY LATARNIACH, SALON PANA CHOUFLEURI M. KAMIESKI SOWIK, CZYLI KASIA Z HANI
NA WYDANIU; NDZA USZCZLIWIONA K. KURPISKI KALMORA 1977 F. X. BRIXI LURIDI
SCHOLARES ERAT UNUM CANTOR BONUS G. F. HAENDEL ARIANNA A. BLOCH GOS MILCZENIA
J. HAYDN DIE ERWHLUNG EINES KAPELLMEISTERS 1978 G. PASQUA LA SERVANTE MAITRESSE
G. B. CIMADORO PIGMALION G. PAISIELLO IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA B. MATUSZCZAK
PAMITNIK WARIATA G. B. PERGOLESI IL GELOSO SCHERNITO 1979 G. ROSSINI IL SIGNOR
BRUSCHINO E. SIKORA TWARZ KU NIEBU; ARIADNA J. HAYDN LA CANTERINA D. SCARLATTI
TETIDE IN SCIRO H. STUPPNER TOTENTANZ 1980 D. CIMAROSA LIMPRESARIO IN ANGUSTIE
J. A. HASSE DON TABARANO E SCINTILLA 1981 ANONIM GRA O MCE I ZMARTWYCHWSTANIU
K. KURPISKI MARS I FLORA A. SCARLATTI SCENE BUFFE 1982 J. HAYDN LISOLA
DISABITATA G. PAISIELLO LE DUE CONTESSE 1983 ANONIM O ZORZO ZAWDY JASNA
T. JOHNSON THE FOUR NOTE OPERA M. KAMIESKI KANTATA NA DZIE INAUGURACYI STATUI
KRLA JANA III D. CIMAROSA IL MATRIMONIO SEGRETO 1984 C. DITTERS VON DITTERSDORF
DOCTOR UND APOTHEKER S. PROKOFIEW PIOTRU I WILK C. SAINT-SANS KARNAWA
ZWIERZT W. A. MOZART LE NOZZE DI FIGARO S. MONIUSZKO HALKA 1985 M. BUCCI SWEET
BETSY FROM PIKE A. SERGE OPOWIE O STRASZLIWYM SMOKU TARASQUE S. LANDI IL SANT
ALESSIO 1986 G. P. TELEMANN DON KICHOT W. A. MOZART PANTALONE E COLOMBINA
B. MATUSZCZAK PROMETEUSZ 1987 ANONIM CANTIGAS DE SANTA MARIA W. A. MOZART
DIE ZAUBERFLTE 1988 K. MAJER TA SZLAFMYCA W. A. MOZART ZAIDE W. A. MOZART
SERENATA NOTTURNA, GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM 1989 J. PERI EURIDICE W. A. MOZART
DIE ENTFHRUNG AUS DEM SERAIL W. A. MOZART BETULIA LIBERATA W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
SEMPLICE 1990 W. A. MOZART APOLLO ET HYACINTHUS W. A. MOZART DIE SCHULDIGKEIT DES
ERSTEN GEBOTS W. A. MOZART LA CLEMENZA DI TITO W. A. MOZART LA FINTA GIARDINIERA
W. A. MOZART LO SPOSO DELUSO, DER SCHAUSPIELDIREKTOR, LOCA DEL CAIRO W. A. MOZART
ASCANIO IN ALBA W. A. MOZART IL SOGNO DI SCIPIONE W. A. MOZART IL RE PASTORE 1991
W. A. MOZART MITRIDATE, RE DI PONTO W. A. MOZART IL DISSOLUTO PUNITO OSSIA IL DON
GIOVANNI W. A. MOZART LUCIO SILLA W. A. MOZART THAMOS W. A. MOZART IDOMENEO,
RE DI CRETA W. A. MOZART D. O. M. KYRIE, GRABMUSIK, DAVIDE PENITENTE W. A. MOZART
GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM, LES PETITS RIENS 1992 G. ROSSINI LA SCALA DI SETA 1993
C. MONTEVERDI 3 MADRIGALI, IL COMBATTIMENTO DI TANCREDI E CLORINDA, BALLO DELLE
INGRATE C. MONTEVERDI LORFEO J. BLOW VENUS AND ADONIS 1994 G. F. HAENDEL
MESSIAH C. MONTEVERDI IL RITORNO DULISSE IN PATRIA 1995 B. GALUPPI LAMANTE
DI TUTTE H. PURCELL DIDO AND NEAS T. MERULA SATIRO E CORISCA; CANZONI E BALLI
1996 F. CACCINI LA LIBERAZIONE DI RUGGIERO DALLISOLA DALCINA C. MONTEVERDI
LINCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA C. MONTEVERDI BALLO DELLE INGRATE B. MATUSZCZAK
QUO VADIS 1997 G. ROSSINI LA CENERENTOLA J.-B. LULLY ALCESTE 1998 G. ROSSINI
LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO G. ROSSINI LITALIANA IN ALGERI G. F. HAENDEL IMENEO
G. ROSSINI ROSSINIADA 1999 C. MONTEVERDI VESPRO DELLA BEATA VERGINE J. A. HASSE
ZENOBIA 2000 O. VECCHI LAMFIPARNASO J. PERI EURIDICE A. CAMPRA TANCRDE
D. SCARLATTI TETIDE IN SCIRO 2001 G. F. HAENDEL RINALDO G. ROSSINI LA GAZZA LADRA
Z. KRAUZE BALTHAZAR Z. RUDZISKI ANTYGONA 2002 P. CZAJKOWSKI EUGENIUSZ ONIEGIN
G. DONIZETTI LELISIR DAMORE 2003 G. VERDI FALSTAFF G. ROSSINI SEMIRAMIDE 2004
L. JANEK JENFA 2005 V. ULLMANN DER KAISER VON ATLANTIS 2006 W. A. MOZART AZIONE
TEATRALE W. A. MOZART BALET DWORSKI 2007 K. KURPISKI HENRYK VI NA OWACH
M. PIGNOLET DE MONTECLAIR JEPHT G. VERDI UN GIORNO DI REGNO C. MARIA VON
WEBER DER FREISCHTZ 2008 B. MATUSZCZAK ZBRODNIA I KARA 2009 B. MATUSZCZAK
PROMETEUSZ J. KOFFLER MATRIMONIO CON VARIAZIONI B. GALUPPI IL FILOSOFO DI
CAMPAGNA 2010 B. BRITTEN THE BURNING FIERY FURNACE I. STRAWISKI THE RAKE'S
PROGRESS Z. KRAUZE POLIEUKT 2011 F. POULENC LA VOIX HUMAINE E. PAASZ JA, KAIN
Stefan Sutkowski
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
12 September 1961 12 September 2011
28
CULTURE & EVENTS
17.06 Friday - 18.06 Saturday
Orange Warsaw Festival
H- 4, Legia Stadium, ul. azienkowska 3, www.
orangewarsawf estival.pl. Organi sed for the thi rd
time, this event is in ai d of Warsaws European Capi tal
of Cul ture bi d. Previous edi tions saw stars like MGMT,
Nell y Furtado, Whi te Li es, Cal vin Harris, Groove Armada
and N.E.R.D. This year the announcement of blast from
the past Skunk Anansi e got the ball rolling foll owed by
news that Moby, Plan B, The Streets and Jamiroquai have
also been confirmed. I f the gossip is true, the list of world
stars won t end there. Q Ti ckets 49-99z. Availabl e at
www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
17.06 Friday - 22.06 Wednesday
Warsaw Summer Jazz Days
www.adamiakjazz.pl. One of the most popular festivals
i n Warsaw, this j azz cel ebrati on is a three-day af fai r.
Organi sed every year si nce 1992 thanks to Mari usz
Adamiak, i t combines an opening gala and two days of
free concerts wi th three days of bi g-name concerts at
the Congress Hall. The opening takes place on Hoover
Square, B-2, Krakowski e Przedmi eci e 58/60 at 19:00.
The next two days of free concerts at Hoovers Square
start at 19:00. The Congress hall gi gs start at 19:30.
and Mondays stars are the Nublu Orchestra and The
Bi tches Brew. Tuesday sees a concert by the venerabl e
Jeff Beck. Proceedings will finish with concerts by Avishai
Cohen and Cassandra Wilson. Q Full schedul e availabl e
at www.adamiakjazz.pl. Ti ckets 50-300z. Availabl e at
Congress Hall box of fi ce (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 15:00).
01.07 Friday - 05.07 Tuesday
Street Art Festival
www.sztukaulicy.pl.
Thi s wi l l be the 14th
time out for this splen-
did festival which deals
with all forms of street
art. After the fall of com-
munism li fe in Poland
literally came out from
homes onto the streets;
new pubs, restaurants
and shops started to
appear and it could be
said that the function of
public space changed,
becoming more impor-
tant to ever y Varso-
vians l i fe. Duri ng the
festival artists come to
Warsaw from al over the world, and take over the town
and fill the streets, parks and passages of Warsaw with
a varied programme. There will be six days packed with
street and outdoor performances, so why not come
and see whats on offer and encounter a wide variety
of theatrical fare including dance, music, circus, as well
as film. In addition there are installations, happenings
and other performances that interact with aspects of
the citys architecture and infrastructure, making use
of using tunnels, bus and tram stops, underground
stations and markets. Its all about making the art
part of the landscape and getting us all involved. The
programme is packed and varied and we have high-
lighted the following:
Helios II
02.07 - 20:30, Pl. Zamkowy, B-2
This show brings the sun god Helios to li fe. To spice
things up, hes not your traditional white bearded deity,
but a curious mythical insect.
The Station
02.07, 03.07 - 15:00, 20:00, Pl. Zamkowy, B-2
An hour-l ong, silent comedy adventure show. There
are dramati c train crashes, rescues and l ots more
Keaton-inspired action from the popular Bash Street
Theatre.
The Children of Paradise
02.07 - 20:30, Royal azienki 1, ul. Agrykoli, G-4
This free open air performance at the back of the theatre
has actors from the mime theatre Mimo taking us back to
the times when troupes used to perform on the streets.
They will also use some scenes from Marcel Carns
wonderful 1945 Les Enfants du Paradis.
Pss Pss
03.07 - 14:00, 15:00, Royal azienki 1, ul. Agrykoli,
G-4
A one hour silent show combining traditional and modern
street circus with Swiss duo Clown Baccala. The only
world youll hear is pss pss.
Odyssee
05.07 - 22:00, Agrykola, H-4
The Titanick Theatre groups latest production is based
on Homers Odyssey. Our hero has to face and overcome
many difficult and dangerous situations, will he make it?
Come along and find out - my moneys on the cyclops.
Q Admission free.
Street Art Festival
30
CULTURE & EVENTS
ist often referred to as the Princess of Jazz. Other gigs to
look forward to will be by master pianist Yaron Herman and
Spanish flamenco artist Sergio Pamies. Q Full schedule
available at www.jazznastarowce.pl. Concerts take place
every Saturday at 19:30. Admission free.
07.07 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday
Warsaw Salsa & Kizomba Festival
Wilanw Beach , ul. Przyczkowa, tel. (+48) 505 12
92 27, www.summersalsa.pl. 4 days of workshops and
parties at a sandy beach prepared in the Wilanw district,
at the crossroads of ul. Przyczkowska, Al. Wilanowska by
the Salsa Libre dance school at ul. Solec 38 (H-3). During
the parties Ze Barbosa & Marta Miranda (Portugal), Alberto
Nunez & Mira Mara (Dominican Republic) and Hamidine
Thiam (Monaco) have confirmed their appearances already.
Q Full schedule available at summersalsa.pl. Workshops
80-420z. Tickets 80-100z. Available at www.eventim.pl.
15.07 Friday
Roxy Festival
Sowiski Park Amphitheatre, ul. Elekcyjna 17 (Wola).
Organised for the first time by the titular independent radio
station, the line-up will be composed of unconventional
artists, musical risk-takers who have broken away from the
mainstream to make new, modern sounds. The
star of the festival is Mark Ronson, the young American
producer whos mostly involved in hip hop as well as being
a Grammy and Brit Awards winner. This time hell perform
in a project alongside The Business Intl and we can look
forward to hip-hop vibes as well as lots of electronics, rock
and disco, so it should certainly be original and alternative.
Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 100-200z. Available at
www.eventim.pl.
03.07 Sunday - 10.07 Sunday
Poland Contact Festival - Warsaw Flow
Ce n t r a l ny Ba s e n
Ar tystyczny ul . Ko-
nopnickiej 6. Contact
I mprovi sati on festi val
Warsaw Fl ow sees i ts
second outing. If youre
sti l l wonderi ng i t i s a
t ype of dance devel -
oped ion the early 70s
by Ameri can choreog-
rapher Steve Paxton. It
focusses on the com-
munication between two or more moving bodies. The
physical contact and combined relationship to gravity,
momentum and inertia is the key. In other words there
are no steps or schemes, only spontaneous contact
between dance partner and environment.
Over eight festival days participants will be able to take
a part in dance workshops under the watchful eyes of
the best contact improvisation teachers from all over the
world. Dancers perform in complete silence, or to music,
solo, in pairs, or even groups, sometimes with their eyes
closed. This type of festival takes place in most of Euro-
pean countries and they gather outgoing, spontaneous
people, who often follow these festivals travelling from
one country to another. Its the only festival that has no
viewers or listeners in the traditional meaning. Every
festival participant must be active and dance, not just
observe. Its the participants who create this festival
and everyone can attend from professionals dancers
to complete newcomers - all you need is a bit of daring
and some enthusiasm. Even though the technique is 39
years old, in Poland its still something new.
The fact that the second edition of Poland Contact Fes-
tival is being organised proves that this kind of dance
is starting to put down some roots. Come along and
forget your everyday routine and experience some rich
positive emotions and make some new friends. Contact
improvisation holds that not everything can be expressed
in words, come and see if they are right.
Poland Contact Festival
21.06 Tuesday
Rock In Summer Festival
Sowiski Park Amphitheatre, ul. Elekcyjna 17 (Wola),
www.rockinsummer.pl. This will be the second staging of
this Sowiski Park based festival. Last year the stars were
Bad Religion and Billy Talent. The headliners known so far
Gogol Bordello, Paramore and the Deftones. Other acts
are Happysad and Heroes Get Remembered, but theres
obviously more to come. Q Tickets 90z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
02.07 Saturday - 27.08 Saturday
Jazz in the Old Town
B- 1/2, Rynek, tel. (+48) 501 14 05 23, www.
jazznastarowce.pl. Judging by the numbers who attend,
this is one of the most popular and largest jazz festivals in
Poland. This has a lot to do with its old town location and the
fact that its for free. Each gig attracts an audience of up to
4,000 and with about 10 concerts in all, the maths is easy.
Highlights should include Quincy Jones protg Cuban pianist
Alfredo Rodriguez and Grace Kelly, an American saxophon-
31
CULTURE & EVENTS
Misc. Events
18.06 Saturday
Verva Street Racing
www.vervastreetracing.pl. This is the only large scale street
racing event in Poland and is being organised for the second
time, last year over 75,000 people turned up. This year the
circuit will run along ul. Senatorska, ul. Wierzbowa and Focha,
and will be tested by cars and drivers from DTM, Formua 3,
Le Mans Series and Porsche Supercup. There will also be su-
percars that you wont see on streets as well as musclecars,
not sure what they are, but they sound scary enough. There
will be drifting shows and, new to the programme, motocross
freestyle. Beep beep. Q Event starts at 13:00. Admission free.
Special Events
25.06 Saturday
Wianki 2011
B-1, I Dywizji Pancernej Square, www.estrada.com.pl.
Warsaw is celebrating Ivan Kupala Day at the Podzamcze
grounds between the old town and the Vistula riverside. It will
probably become a venue for events before long as they have
just opened a rather fetching multimedia fountain there.
Always celebrated on the shortest night of the year, it is an
event combining fire, water, sun, moon, happiness, love and
fertility, one for the hippies amongst us then. From 14:00 on
theres a family picnic and city games with the finale at 18:00.
After that at 20:00 theres a concert of Monika Brodka, Wilki,
Kelis and Sunrise Avenue. Everything will finish with fireworks.
Q Event starts at 14:00. Admission free.
01.07 Friday
Polish UE Presidency Inauguration Concert
B-3/4, Pl. Defilad 1. Poland assumes the EU Presidency
on July 1st and to celebrate the authorities have organised a
musical show with two stages in the city centre, just in front
of the Palace of Culture and Science. One stage will pres-
ent classical music with compositions by Chopin and other
Polish composers Krzysztof Komeda, Andrzej Kurylewicz
and Wojciech Kilar. Performing will be notables like Leszek
Moder, Tomasz Stasko Quintet, Sinfonia Varsiovia and
Chris Botti, no sniggering at the back. The second stage is
about pop and beside big Polish names like Perfect, Myslovitz
and Lech Janerka there will be international stars Tricky,
Dolores ORiordan (The Cranberries), Angie Stone, Kenny G,
US presidential candidate Michael Bolton (stop sniggering I
said!) as well as the ever popular, in these parts, Manhattan
Transfer. The songs will be originals as well as covers of Pol-
ish numbers like Czesaw Niemens Sen o Warszawie, Dream
of Warsaw. Everything will finish before 2:00, with a firework
show and the Ode to Joy, probably. Q Admission free.
Theatre
21.06 Tuesday - 22.06 Wednesday
Movement Quarterly Stage
A-3, Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts, ul.
Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 39 62, www.mckis.
waw.pl. Quarterly Movement is a Mazovia Regional Centre
of Culture and Arts stage presenting Polish theatre of move-
ment including professional and amateur performances.
Taking place every three months over two days, the first
day will be devoted to the theatre of movement as it has de-
veloped from contemporary dance theatre. The second day
is set aside for mime, this time for Stefan Niedziakowskis
Mime Art Theatre. Q Events start at 19:00. Tickets 10z.
Available before events.
32
WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the crop
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton
already feels like an established big shot on Warsaws five
star circuit. And it cant be denied, theres a hefty dose of
wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But its
not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous looking
25 metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and
private check in. As for the rooms, theyre just what youd
expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with
a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televi-
sions. Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete
with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw. Q314 rooms
(303 singles 270 - 1000z, 303 doubles 270 - 1000z, 10
apartments 910 - 1910z, 1 Presidential Suite 5310 - 9000z).
Tax 8%. POTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
Holiday Inn Warszawa A- 4, ul. Zota 48/54, tel.
(+48) 22 697 39 99, www.holidayinn.com/warsawpo-
land. A trademark Holiday Inn with a location hemmed in by
the Palace of Culture and Zote Tarasy shopping centre. Find
immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard just typical
of the HI crest. It might look small and squat compared to its
neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large, with a quick
tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness facilities and a
beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles 249 - 735z, 272
doubles 249 - 735z, 10 apartments 599 - 980z). Breakfast
65z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKD hhhh
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel.
(+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.
Situated right on the doorstep of azienki Park, the Hyatt
not only has all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel
swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are
enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours
and huge showerheads designed for that mock rain experi-
ence. Q250 rooms (90 singles 80 - 230, 132 doubles 95
- 275, 10 suites 130 - 300, 2 Diplomatic Suite 810 - 980,
1 Presidential Suite 1880 - 1980). Breakfast 15. Tax 8%.
POTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beautiful
three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is nothing
short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation fits the setting,
with spacious rooms using pleasant colour combinations and
including every facility one would expect. Setting it apart from the
competition is a fitness centre and swimming pool on the 43th
floor, and huge residential suites for long-term guests. Q404
rooms (326 singles 75 - 250, 326 doubles 85 - 260, 76 apart-
ments 95 - 1190, 1 Presidential Suite 1900). Breakfast 23.
Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDC hhhhh
Le Mridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.com/
warsaw. Breathe in history by booking a night in Warsaws
most famous hotel. The plaque in the marble clad lobby
lists dozens of stars and royalty who have chosen to lodge
here, and to countdown the facilities on offer would require
an hour of your time. Art nouveau is the theme and rooms
feature the classy ambiance of yesteryear. But for all the five
star perks and trimmings our favourite touch is the court-
yard garden; an oasis of luxury perfect for evening drinks.
Q204 rooms (173 doubles 1000z, 30 apartments 2000
- 5500z, 1 Paderewski Suite 7500z). Breakfast 110z. Tax
8%. PTJHAR6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Warsaw is a business ci ty first and foremost, and
occupancy rates reflect that. Prices dip the moment
the clock hits Friday, 5pm, and youll find some great
discounts available if you hunt around online. A good
place to start of course is warsaw.inyourpocket.com
where there is a function to check and compare prices.
Called hotelcalculator.com the software scans the web
and finds the lowest rates available for all hotels available
on the dates you request. It then gives you the three best
prices available allowing to book directly with whichever
reservation system has that price at the time.
The Warsaw hotel market reflects the citys image as
the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and it comes
well equipped with five star offerings, as well as a new
breed of lower priced options for more thrifty travellers.
Unless mentioned otherwise the options we list include
breakfast in their rates. Hotels will list their prices in
euros, dollars or zloty, though whatever the case your bill
will be calculated in local currency using the exchange
rate of the day. Warsaw now has a group of Golden
Keys concierges and their tips for the coming months
in Warsaw can be found in our Ask the Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by art bods lend a uniquely
local modern angle to the old town setting. For some-
thing more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a
restored art nouveau building bang in the centre with a
guest list that has included the Miss World gals. Or why
not see what its like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap
Nathans Villa was Warsaws first proper hostel, and
remains its best. Oki Doki runs it close though, and
offers rooms with wacky themes and names - House
of 1001 Hands anyone? If hostelling is below you then
check out Premiere Classe or one of the Polish budget
range Start hotels.
Lads
If youre touring in numbers then go for one of the 5 star
giants, all of whom tend to drop their rates at weekends.
If you want to be central then try the Marriott - it comes
with its own sports bar and casino. Cheaper options, but
equally adept at coping with groups, are Golden Tulip
Warsaw Centre and Campanile.
Couples
MaMaison Le Regina i s the per fect honeymoon
experience, and right in the middle of romantic new
town. Alternatively, relive the Art Deco years inside the
boutique Rialto.
Splurge
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent years,
many of them at the top end of the market. While we can
vouch for all the major hotels, it might be worth taking a
look at the price comparison service hotelcalculator on
the hotel pages of poland.inyourpocket.com
Lodgings at a glance
33
WHERE TO STAY
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.
com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel
in Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and
comes set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in
Warsaws New Town area. No expense has been spared in
creating this luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble
mocha used for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in
many of the rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout this
courtyard centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing
combo of whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms
(58 singles 85 - 250, 58 doubles 85 - 250, 1 Le Regina
Suite 700 - 1200, 1 Presidential Suite 1200 - 1500, 1
Penthouse 500 - 700). Breakfast 20. PTJHA
RUFGKDCW hhhhh
Marriott B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22
630 63 06, www.marriott.com/wawpl. A hotel with real
pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from Warsaws
classiest doorman outside to award winning restaurants
inside. The accommodation has been home to a long line
of visiting nabobs, including George W. Bush. An extensive
program of renovation has recently seen all the rooms up-
graded and the beds are so comfortable you may not wish
to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo in the
bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles, and
views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms (423
singles 449 - 999z, 423 doubles 449 - 999z, 31 suites 599
- 1149z, 60 apartments 649 - 1999z, 2 Vice Presidential
Suite 4560z, 1 Presidential Suite 8200z). Breakfast 84z.
Tax 8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW
hhhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszakowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the
Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject to a thorough
rehaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location and
size, meaning its not rare to find it overrun with tour groups
and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms offering all
the four star extras. Q733 rooms (50 singles 199 - 670z,
661 doubles 199 - 670z, 12 suites 999z, 10 apartments
1340z). Breakfast 65z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6U
FLGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.
(+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally
built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory
banquet hosted by Eisenhower, to the Miss World girls back in
2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and now
dazzles amid its soot clad neighbours. Slidey doors open onto
a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned rooms
reveal modern fittings among made-to-look-old furniture.
Pride of place goes to the apartment, whose defining feature
is a raised lounge area with an oval-shaped window. Q206
rooms (198 singles 60 - 235, 198 doubles 60 - 235, 7
suites 180 - 415, 1 apartments 510). Breakfast 9-18.
PTHAR6UFGKDw hhhh
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.
com/hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer
facilities and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and
maritime styles. All come with dataports, three telephone
lines, safes and pay-TV, and theres also state-of-the-art
conference, dining and fi tness facili ti es. Q311 rooms
(284 singles 220 - 800z, 284 doubles 280 - 670z, 26
suites 570 - 1150z, 1 Presidential Apartment 4000z).
Breakfast 80z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFGK
DCW hhhhh
Warsaw is ready for summer time and
looking forward to all the events that can
be held in open air. There are also lots of
option to choose from in Warsaw concert halls and mu-
seums. To help you enjoy the warm and sunny summer,
here are some recommendations on how to spend an
unforgettable time in our city.
For 52 years now the open air concerts of Frederic Chopin
music have been organised in azienki Park. The recitals
are given every Sunday at midday and at 4 pm under the
Chopin Monument. The picnic atmosphere in the park,
people sitting on benches among the roses, having ice-
cream or coffee while listening to the classical music
makes you feel as if you are far away from civilisation and
your day-to-day activities, while still being in the centre of
the city. In the beautiful azienki Gardens take the time
to visit the Palace on the Water the summer residence
of our last Polish King. After the concert why not take a
walk along the Royal Route towards Old Town stopping at
Nowy Swiat street, which is full of cafes and restaurants
and closed to traffic every summer weekend. Do not
forget about the best pczki (doughnuts) in Warsaw at
Blikle pastry (open in 1869).
The multimedia fountain park in Podzamcze (corner of
the Bole and Sanguszki streets) is certainly worth a
visit. The newly opened cluster of fountains, which are ac-
companied by colourful visual effects and music, produce
a spectacular show available to anyone whos visiting the
Old Town after 9pm. There is a special multimedia show
each Saturday at 9pm.
Warsaw is a city of music. For jazz fans we will have The
17
th
International Outdoor Festival Jazz in the Old Town
with free concerts in Old Town Square each Saturday
in June and July. A number of popular music stars are
coming to Warsaw in the coming weeks including Bobby
McFerrin, Roxette, Cesaria Evora, Carlos Santana, Casa-
ndra Wilson, John Mayall and Buena Vista Social Club. On
top of that well have the Fete de la Musique which will
see numerous musicians and bands performing on the
streets of Warsaw on June the 21
st
. All concerts are free.
The magnifique Sofitel Warsaw hotel invites you on that
day (June 21
st
) for an Edith Piaff recital in the lobby bar. For
classical music lovers I do recommend The 21
st
Mozart
Festival in our Chamber Opera starting on June the 15
th
.
Meanwhile take time to visit the Copernicus Centre of
Science, a complex of interactive exhibits, meant to be a
place where adults and kids may carry out experiments
demonstrating how the world around us works. Immerse
yourself in the era of past centuries while visiting the
Polish National Museum or discover the original manu-
scripts and music of the greatest Polish composer in
the museum of Fryderyk Chopin. Please ask your hotel
Concierge to recommend you any one of the 48 other
museums in Warsaw.
Its just impossible to mention all
events and places to experience
in Warsaw this summer. Your
hotel Concierge will be more than
happy to match some recom-
mendati ons to your i nterests
and to show you around. Let
us make your visit in Warsaw a
memorable one!
Piotr Prasua
Chef Concierge in the Sofitel
Warsaw Victoria Hotel
Ask your Concierge
34
WHERE TO STAY
Upmarket
Jan III Sobieski E- 3, Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. (+48) 22
579 10 00, www.sobieski.com.pl. The faade has
j ust been gi ven a l i ck of pai nt, meani ng i ts now back
to i ts overpoweri ng combi nati on of pi nk and yel l ow. The
i nteri or i s more subtl e and features a marbl e l obby, bi g
rooms and fi tness faci l i ti es. Q435 rooms (60 si ngl es
65 - 165, 328 doubl es 65 - 180, 39 apar tments
95 - 210, 1 Royal Sui te 500, 7 Apar tament Execu-
ti ve 115 - 230). PTHAR6UFLGKD
hhhh
Mercure Grand C- 4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. (+48) 22
583 21 00, www.accorhotels.com. A landmark of a
hotel, housed in one of those 1950s buildings that simply
oozes class and makes you wonder why the rest of the
city couldnt look the same. High quality rooms come with
fantastic showers that make brilliant use of the available
space. Add in comfy beds, a top central location, good
staff and a brilliant buffet breakfast, and you have a win-
ner. Q299 rooms (86 singles 195 - 750z, 207 doubles
195 - 750z, 5 sui tes 1350z, 1 apartments 1650z).
Breakfast 70z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLG
KDW hhhh
Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin A- 3, Al.
Jana Pawa II 22, tel. (+48) 22 528 03 00, www.
accorhotels.com. The col our ful rooms at the Chopi n
provi de qual i ty accommodati on wi th a hi nt of Gal l i c
fl ai r. Rooms have a contemporar y st yl e and of fer
guests al l expected mod cons: i nternet connecti on,
air-condi ti oni ng, mi ni bar, etc. Q250 rooms (112 si ngl es
190 - 550z, 130 doubl es 190 - 550z, 8 apartments
750z). Breakfast 60z. Tax 8%. PTHA6UFL
GKDW hhh
Mid-range
Belwederski G-5, ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. (+48) 22
840 40 11, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Smart rooms
found in the sleepy diplomatic quarter. The pink exterior is
as wacky as it gets, the rest of the hotel offers conservative
mid-range comfort complete with satellite TV and large bath-
rooms. Q53 rooms (32 singles 189 - 270z, 21 doubles 224
- 320z, 10 suites 245 - 350z, 1 apartments 390 - 620z).
THA6UGKW hhh
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C- 4, ul. Smolna 14/6,
tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet
and cobbl ed, Smolna is not a typi cal ci ty centre street,
and nei ther is this your typi cal set of apartments. Apart-
ments sui t all budgets, though the Queen - featuri ng
Three star Ascot Hotel offers its guests modern,
functional rooms and an intimate, comfortable atmosphere
in the very centre of Krakow.
Your Hotel in the heart of Krakow
31026 Krakw, ul. Radziwiowska 3, Phone +48 12 384 06 06, +48 12 384 06 66, Fax +48 12 384 06 07,
e-mail: rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl, recepcja@hotelascot.pl
www.hotelascot.pl
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.
rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh inside
Polands original boutique hotel, a stunning venue decorated
exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings have been
plucked from the auction houses and antique stores of Europe,
and all the individually designed rooms come with Italian linen,
DVD players and a host of luxurious extras. If its available then
book into lucky number 13, a colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot
would have loved. He would have thought highly of the excellent
in-house restaurant, too. Q44 rooms (6 singles 69 - 160, 27
doubles 69 - 160, 11 apartments 129 - 210). Breakfast 18.
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450
61 00, www.sheraton.com. Its all a bit Dynasty in the War-
saw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate extras, as
well as a selection of some of Warsaws best eateries on the
ground floor. Rooms are of generous size, though to really feel
like king consider upgrading to executive, where perks include
access to a great lounge featuring complimentary snacks
and beverages. Q350 rooms (326 singles 320 - 970z, 326
doubles 320 - 970z, 18 suites 535 - 1185z, 5 apartments
1820 - 2470z, 1 Presidential Suite 6820 - 7470z). Breakfast
99z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKD hhhhh
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria B-3, ul. Krlewska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 657 80 11, www.accorhotels.com. For years the
Sofitel was in very real danger of stagnation. Now this revamped
concrete block finds itself in the eye-of-the-storm; revitalised
Krakowskie Przedmiecie on one side, and Saski Park on the
other. And, right in front, Sir Norman Fosters Metropolitan
building, complete with its glass cased offices and designer
boutiques. So what of the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper
enough, fully equipped to deal with the steep demands of the
five star traveller. Ask for a business class room if you require an
additional study with fax and copy facilities. Q343 rooms (160
singles 240 - 820z, 170 doubles 240 - 820z, 52 apartments
380 - 1480z, 1 Presidential Suite 5900z). Breakfast 95z. Tax
8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDC hhhhh
The Westin A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21, tel. (+48) 22
450 80 00, www.westin.com. A top bracket sanctuary
situated amid the skyscrapers of Warsaws business district.
The lobby buzzes at all hours and a glass lift whisks guests
to rooms decorated in warms tones and ultra-modern fit-
tings. Each comes replete with dressing gowns and slippers,
in-room movies and mini-bars that will take a considerable
effort to clear. Splash out on the executive floor for access
to a top floor lounge that features gourmet finger snacks
and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms (345 singles 310 -
820z, 345 doubles 310 - 820z, 15 suites 1510 - 2020z, 1
Presidential Suite 6810 - 7320z). Breakfast 99z. Tax 8%.
PTHAR6UFLGKD hhhhh
35
WHERE TO STAY
jacuzzi and large li ving space - is well worth the extra
outlay. Accommodation has been desi gned to evoke a
real atmosphere of home-from-home and features l ots
of fl owers, natural wood and personal touches courtesy
of Jarek, your host. Q14 rooms (8 singl es 250 - 280z,
11 doubl es 250 - 300z, 2 apartments 360 - 390z).
THAGW
Campanile E- 3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582
72 00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated wi th che-
quered patterns and green and yell ow col our schemes
the Campanil e accommodation includes satelli te TV and
pristine bathrooms. Hi gh standards and a central l oca-
tion. Q194 rooms (194 singles 249 - 299z, 194 doubles
249 - 299z). Breakfast 35z. PTHA6UGKW
hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl.
Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.
pl. When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer
stand hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a
hotel at the centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms,
all with individual decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good
fun - and - wait for it - velvet doors. Best of all though are
the rooms which have the massive (and we mean massive)
bathrooms. We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those
on offer here in any other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their
clientele the owners of this place have also graduated up
from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what becomes
of hostels when they grow up, bring it on. Q22 rooms
(3 singles 210 - 330z, 10 doubles 220 - 355z, 1 triples
210 - 330z, 8 apartments 300 - 495z). Breakfast 29z.
TYHA6GW
Chmielna St. B&B C- 4, ul. Chmielna 13, tel. (+48)
22 828 12 82, www.chmielnabb.pl. Budget pri ced
boutique accommodation courtesy of the brains behind
the New World Hostel. Theres seven rooms to choose
from, including London (red, vibrating wall), San Francisco
(black/white, modern metropolitan) and Hoi An (hardwood
and a curtained bed). Its a great concept for those too old
for hostels, too young for Hilton, and the deal here includes
a cool looking living room with a chic style and flatscreen
plasma. Find the reception 100m away in the New World
St. Hostel at ul. Nowy wiat 27 (C-3). Q7 rooms (7 singles
174 - 210z, 7 doubles 174 - 210z, 1 triples 188 - 217z).
Breakfast 15z. AGW
Czarny Kot My Warsaw Residence D-1, ul. Okopowa
65, tel. (+48) 22 530 50 00, www.hotelczarnykot.
com.pl. Heres a candidate for Polands weirdest hotel. Set
a short way from the Arkadia mall this turreted structure is
labyrinthine in layout, and filled with mirrors, chrome and
quirky diversions. Rooms vary in style and size, with many
featuring a design more associated with a nightclub. Memo-
rable, most certainly. Q43 rooms (37 singles 200-300z,
37 doubles 250-800z, 2 triples 500-800z, 5 apartments
800-6500z). PT6HARGKDW
Dom Literatury B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
87/89, tel. (+48) 22 635 04 04, www.fundacjadl.
com. Commanding views of Warsaws Old Town relieve the
sepia gloom, but lugging your bags to the top floor might
give you a hernia. At reception, oblivious to the hotels latent
menace, awaits a supremely glum and unhelpful desk clerk.
His job necessitates daily contact with foreigners, yet he
remains resolutely, magnificently monolingual. Q13 rooms
(3 singles 180 - 220z, 7 doubles 300 - 370z, 3 triples 330
- 450z, 2 quads 400 - 520z, 1 apartments 400 - 600z).
HA6UGKW
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available online, often well below the rack rates
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and see what In Your Pocket with Hotelcalculator
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36
WHERE TO STAY
Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838 40
62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering
moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral
designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles 222 - 323z, 16 doubles 284
- 384z, 3 apartments 384 - 424z). PTA6KW hh
MDM F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00,
www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the top of
Marszakowska most rooms in the MDM feature grandstand
views of Warsaws finest piece of socialist realism: pl. Kon-
stytucji. Accommodation comes with plum coloured carpets
and predictable three star comfort. Q134 rooms (21 singles
50 - 130, 108 doubles 50 - 130, 5 suites 105 - 190).
Breakfast 8. THA6UGKW hhh
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszakowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22
325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Renovations have
phased out the Cold War era rooms, replacing them with de-
cent enough digs in the very heart of Warsaw. True, youll still be
looking enviously at those staying in the Novotel opposite, but
this is no longer the hall of horror of yesteryear. Q191 rooms
(180 singles 50 - 130, 180 doubles 50 - 130, 11 suites
105 - 190). Breakfast 8. PTA6UGKW hhh
Partner ul. Marywilska 16 (Biaoka), tel. (+48) 22
814 23 00, www.partnerhotel.pl. A bright, modern hotel
with a Scandinavian aesthetic. Rooms come with pine fur-
nishings and large windows allowing plenty of natural light
to spill in. Its a fair distance from the city centre, so possibly
best suited to company conferences. Sauna and a long line
of other facilities on site. Q103 rooms (92 singles 235 -
360z, 40 doubles 255 - 380z, 6 apartments 300 - 940z).
THAUGKDW hhh
Reytan G-5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. (+48) 22 201 64 00,
www.reytan.pl. Found down a quiet side street the Rey-
tan delivers a high three star standard. Crisp bed sheets,
bright colours and new furniture. Q86 rooms (86 singles
200 - 400z, 74 doubles 230 - 430z, 2 suites 290 - 600z).
THA6ULGKW hhh
Budget
Best Western Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.bwfelix.pl.
Located over on the east side of the river 6km from the city
centre, the Best Western falls comfortably into the Polish
business/conference class of hotels. Having received a
complete makeover and refurb, what you now have is ef-
fectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at extremely
competitive prices. Handy i f youre planning on spending
your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district. Q227
rooms (96 singles 159 - 229z, 120 doubles 159 - 229z, 5
triples 180 - 229z, 3 suites 200 - 230z). Breakfast 30z.
TYHAR6ULGKDW hhh
Etap Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagrna 1, tel. (+48)
22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super addition
to Warsaws budget bracket, and one of the first Etap hotels
to be launched in Poland. Its a winning formula here: bright,
modern rooms inside a sparkling white building in the quiet
Powile district. The rooms come with a simple design but your
cash gets you all the facilities the modern traveller requires:
wireless net access, en-suite bathrooms and cable television.
Q176 rooms (176 singles 139 - 175z, 176 doubles 139 - 175z,
14 triples 139 - 175z). Breakfast 20z. PA6UGW h
Hit G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 33, tel. (+48) 22 618
94 70, www.hithotel.pl. Singles and doubles as well
as apartments ranging in size from 30 to 60 metres.
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa
2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsaw-
centre.com. You may be aware of this hotel in its previous
guise as the Kyriad Prestige, one of our favourite hotels
in the city thanks to its price/quality ratio. Well it has now
rebranded as the Golden Tulip and the coming months will
see a redesigned reception and dining area created with
further changes and additions spread over the next year so
as not to disturb guests will see a fourth star added.Q144
rooms (144 singles 309 - 419z, 144 doubles 309 - 419z).
Breakfast 55z. PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Gromada - Dom Chopa B-3, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy
2, tel. (+48) 22 582 99 00, www.domchlopa.pl. Its almost
a surprise to find such a good deal in the city centre. As the
coaches parked outside testify, Gromada is a hit with package
tours and conferences. First sight is an over-waxed marble lobby,
and a curvy stairwell spirits guests to modern, sunny rooms.
The economy class accommodation is a different animal entirely
though, with basic rooms that come with adverts for hookers
and TVs with a soul of their own. Q320 rooms (301 singles 199
- 420z, 265 doubles 229 - 450z, 17 apartments 450 - 690z).
PTHAR6ULGKW hhh
Harenda C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 4/6, tel.
(+48) 22 826 00 71, www.hotelharenda.com.pl. A decent
family-style hotel within walking distance of the Old Town. Rooms
are decorated in pink and chocolate brown colours. Stay at the
weekend and get one night thrown in for free. Q42 rooms (40
singles 310 - 340z, 5 doubles 340 - 380z, 2 apartments 460
- 490z). Breakfast 25z. TJHARLW hh
Hetman G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 22
511 98 00, www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star
indentikit accommodation at its finest. The large rooms
come with internet access, hairdryers, cable TV and neutral
beige colour schemes. On the Praga side of the river. Q68
TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 515 78 00, www.accorhotels.
com. Practical, fully functional rooms fully in line with the
standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137 rooms (137
singles 139 - 239z, 137 doubles 139 - 239z). Breakfast
29z. PTHA6ULGKW hh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. (+48) 22
310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of the same from
Ibis: international standards at competitive prices. Best of all, its
location ten minutes from the Old Town means that your immedi-
ate choice is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in
the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles 209 - 339z, 333 doubles
209 - 339z). Breakfast 33z. PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reli-
able international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come
armed with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189
singles 189 - 349z, 189 doubles 189 - 349z). Breakfast
29z. PTHA6ULGKW hh
Lord Al. Krakowska 218 (Wochy), tel. (+48) 22 574 20
00, www.hotellord.com.pl. An out-of-centre hotel within
easy distance of the airport. Large rooms are conservatively
decorated with clean, cream colours, wood furnishings and
rich green carpets, with many currently undergoing a refit
to add an element of edge. Q90 rooms (37 singles 290 -
390z, 50 doubles 310 - 410z, 3 apartments 400 - 500z).
PTHAR6UFKD hhh
37
WHERE TO STAY
Shuttered away in a colourful building close to the zoo
section of Praga. Its brand new and cheap and theyve
just added a second star to their sign. Q102 rooms (12
singles 190 - 220z, 36 doubles 210 - 240z, 6 triples
220 - 250z, 48 apartments 260 - 400z). Breakfast 25z.
HA6ULGKW hh
Mazowiecki B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 10, tel. (+48) 22
827 23 65, www.mazowiecki.com.pl. What used to be
a grubby budget hotel has seen modest refurbishments
and now promises utilitarian comfort at cut prices. The
peep show next door may have closed, but the hotels
proxi mi ty to several of Warsaws top bars make i t a
popular choice for a particular breed of traveller. Q56
YHA6UKW h
Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48)
22 624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com.pl. One of
the best budget options in the city, and as such often fully
booked. Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private
bathrooms and television, and the location is just a tram
stop from the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles
159 - 199z, 126 doubles 159 - 199z). Breakfast 20z.
TA6UGW h
Start Hotel Aramis ul. Mangalia 3b (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 207 80 00, www.puhit.pl. Slightly forbidding
at first glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at
even lower prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on
a renovated room - perks are minimal but the rooms are
clean and come with television and internet access. Q231
rooms (231 singles 109 - 159z, 92 doubles 109 - 159z,
139 triples 109 - 129z). Breakfast 22z. TYHA
R6ULGK h
Start Hotel Atos H-6, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207
70 00, www.puhit.pl. Another hotel where spending the ex-
tra on a premium komfort room is wholly encouraged. Doing
so gains you digs in clean, renovated rooms with functional
furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs gets you something
altogether more basic. Q231 rooms (231 singles 119 - 159z,
106 doubles 119 - 159z, 109 triples 109 - 129z). Breakfast
22z. TYHAR6ULGK h
Start Hotel Portos ul. Mangalia 3a (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
22 207 60 00, www.starthotel.pl. Simple budget accommoda-
tion courtesy of the Polish Start chain. Shell out on the revamped
rooms for the best deal, and do expect to be making ample use
of taxis throughout the duration of your stay. Q230 rooms (230
singles 159 - 199z, 156 doubles 159 - 199z, 8 suites 185 - 240z).
Breakfast 30z. TYHAR6ULGK hhh
Apartments
Apartamenty Dobranoc ul. Czarnoleska 10 (Wawer),
tel. (+48) 503 06 64 58, www.dobranoc.eu. A variety
of apartments (from small studios to larger family places,
though none are all that big) all in fairly central locations.
Decorated well (all have fully fitted kitchens and bathrooms
with all mod cons) if not luxuriously, for what you get you are
not paying a great deal of money. Q9 rooms (9 apartments
120 - 370z). No breakfast served. AW
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Luxury
apartments aimed at the long stay corporate traveller. Guests
are awarded all the privileges granted to those staying in the
hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the fitness cen-
tre. Q76 rooms (76 apartments 95 - 1190). Breakfast 23.
Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDC hhhhh
38
WHERE TO STAY
Mamaison Residence Diana Warsaw C- 3, ul.
Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505 91 00, www.mamai-
son.com/diana. An outstanding set of serviced apartments
filled with designer furniture and extras such as DVD players,
hi-fi and fully functioning kitchen. Very chic, and absolutely
perfect for the travelling CEO. Services include a 24hr English-
speaking reception, laundry and business facilities. Q46
rooms (46 apartments 79 - 350). Breakfast 12. Tax 8%.
PTHARLGKW
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all bud-
gets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end of
the market. Q50 rooms (50 apartments 240 - 450z). No
breakfast served. TAR6GW
Residence 1898 B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 72, tel.
(+48) 22 523 62 78, www.1898.pl. Designer apartments
and studios aimed at the high-flying long-term traveller.
Accommodation comes fitted with state-of-the-art goodies
that include plasma screen TVs, DVD players and high speed
internet access. Sliding doors hide fully-equipped kitchens
and beautiful bathrooms complete with bath oils and dressing
gowns. Q24 rooms (24 apartments 95 - 150). No breakfast
served. PTAR6G
Residence St. Andrews Palace B- 4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestan-
drews.pl. Fantasti c apartments i n a wonder ful, ful l y
renovated building in the most central location possible:
ul. Chmielna. Not a penny was spared in the decoration
and fitting out of these places, and the nice little touches
that are found all over - from the marble in the bathrooms
to the full y fi tted ki tchens wi th washing machines and
dishwashers - will convince you that this was money well
spent. Free Wi fi and daily cleaning included. I f this were a
hotel, it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these
apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments
89 - 250). PTARGW
Senator Warsaw D-3, ul. Skierniewicka 12/14, tel.
(+48) 508 89 90 21, www.kategoraplaces.com. Big,
bright modern apartments in a new building close to the
Warsaw Uprising Museum. A range of sizes, they sleep par-
ties of all size, and are flexible given that all the sofas convert
to beds. Bathrooms especially good, and the kitchens lack
not a single utensil we could think of. And we thought of quite
a few. Q8 rooms (8 apartments 37 - 70). No breakfast
served. TA6LGW
Hostels
Hostel Suewiec ul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 207 90 50, www.puhit.pl. A hostel in name
alone, this is actually more of a budget hotel than anything
else. Rooms are clean, bare and tidy, and while the prices
are kind the chances of meeting any fellow backpackers are
virtually non-existent. Q144 rooms (83 singles 65 - 110z, 58
doubles 130 - 200z). Breakfast 15z. AR6K
Hostel To-Tu ul. Krasiczyska 8 (Targwek), tel. (+48)
22 207 92 00, www.puhit.pl. Lacks the atmosphere of
more backpacker focused hostels, and in all truth your fel-
low guests are just as likely to be Polish workmen as they
are Ozzie beer monsters. Plus, youre closer to space than
you are to central Warsaw. Q100 rooms (6 singles 90z, 5
doubles 120z, 10 triples 180z, 144 Dorm beds 45 - 90z).
Breakfast 10z. A6K
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plung-
ing to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katy
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judge-
ment and land in war torn Tbilisi though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyskis
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyski remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Krakws
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw for
Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynskis twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
Disaster at Smolensk
www.prezydent.pl
39
WHERE TO STAY
Kanonia F-1, ul. Jezuicka 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 06 76,
www.kanonia.pl. An atmospheric old town hostel accessed
down a narrow cobbled street straight from the pages of
Hans Christian Andersen. Living quarters are cramped and
sometimes noisy and guests shouldnt be surprised to find
nosey tourists peering through the windows. Expect the stan-
dard hostel trappings including a cheerfully painted kitchen,
round-the-clock reception and a few computers on standby
for your gmail moments. Q12 rooms (5 singles 160 - 200z,
8 doubles 160 - 220z, 2 triples 180 - 270z, 54 Dorm beds
45 - 60z). Breakfast 13z. 6GW
Krokodyl ul. Czapelska 24 (Praga Poudnie), tel.
(+48) 22 810 11 18, www.hostelkrokodyl.com. A
bright, modern hostel located over the river in the Praga
district which maintains the marked improvement in bud-
get accommodation in the city. On offer is a combination
of clean, colourful and comfortable dorms and private
rooms, some with en-suite bathrooms. The pluses are
many and include free laundry, free wi fi, fully-equipped
kitchen, a common room, pleasant garden and an alcohol
licence. One of the citys best hostels with very friendly
staff and while the location is out of the centre a straight
15 minute ride on trams 9 or 24 will see you in the shadow
of the Palace of Cul ture. Q21 rooms (5 singl es 150 -
160z, 5 doubles 150 - 160z, 98 Dorm beds 45 - 70z).
TALGW
Nathans Villa F- 4, ul. Pikna 24/26, tel. (+48) 22
622 29 46, www.nathansvilla.com. Set inside a city
centre courtyard Nath has been putting backpackers to
bed since 2004, making him something of an old hand
on the local hostel circuit. And thats something of a good
thing, years of experience - not to say parties - mark this
out as one of the best hostels not just in Warsaw, but
Poland. Decked in a user-friendly IKEA style everything
here feels new, clean and modern, with plus points going
to the kitchen/common rooms: a great space to share a
crate of lager with other itinerants. Q19 rooms (6 singles
174 - 204z, 6 doubles 174 - 204z, 95 Dorm beds 45 -
72z). YGW
New World St. Hostel C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel.
(+48) 22 828 12 82, www.nws-hostel.pl. Bang in the
heart of nightlife Warsaw is this place, a top little hostel that
numbers wifi, DVDs and a Wii amongst its many standout
features. Choose from four, eight and ten bed dorms, or opt
for one of the colourful privates, themselves named after
glamour spots on the backpacking trail. Q6 rooms (3 singles
152 - 180z, 3 doubles 152 - 180z, 24 Dorm Beds 39 - 77z).
Breakfast 10z. Breakfast in private rooms included in the
price. AGW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826
51 12, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed
with abstract art, bits and bobs from thri ft stores and
wacky colour schemes. The last few months have seen
a dramati c overhaul, wi th more pri vate rooms added.
Rooms dont have numbers, just themes, and have been
designed by a team of local artists. Take a look at The
Realm of Narnia, like something straight out of C.S. Lewis,
or The Communist Dorm, filled with commie iconography
and scenes from Socialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet
also availabl e for guests, as well as what the owners
promise is the cheapest beer in Warsaw. For something
more upmarket check into the decidely boutique Castle
Inn, a second pet venture from the same team behind the
Okidoke. Q37 rooms (1 singles 120 - 137z, 21 doubles
157 - 222z, 5 triples 180 - 240z, 50 Dorm beds 30 - 55z).
Breakfast 12z. TYA6GW
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We offer professional service, quality and excellent locations
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land line +48 22 636 86 99, mobile +48 508 135 995
e-mail: booking@pandoapartments.eu
Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl
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Visit our pages at www.pandoapartments.es or call +34 663 652 145
Airport Hotel Okcie ul. 17 Stycznia 24 (Okcie),
tel. (+48) 22 456 80 00, www.airporthotel.pl. Good
value for the business traveller, rooms include dataports,
satellite TV and plenty of natural light. Wins bonus points
for the impressive, top-floor panoramic bar. Q170 rooms
(10 singles 77 - 113, 137 doubles 77 - 133, 16 suites
100 - 133, 7 apartments 107 - 430). Breakfast 13.
Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul. wirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, www.
courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses this place,
almost directly opposite the check in desks, is an extension
of Warsaw Airport. People use the superb lobby bar as a
departure lounge, and for those with an early morning start
the big, comfortable rooms here are as good a place as any to
wait for a flight. Fear not the noise of the planes: we slept like a
baby (as did our baby) even though our room had a direct view
of the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles 315 - 720z, 121
doubles 315 - 720z, 2 apartments 1000 - 1250z). Breakfast
68z. Tax 8%. PTHARUFGK hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Airport D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1,
tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a
canny choice for those who expect professional standards
at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports and
shining bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone to
the rooms. Q281 rooms (280 singles 210 - 460z, 280
doubles 210 - 460z, 1 apartments 790z). Breakfast 60z.
Tax 8%. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhh
Airport Hotels
40
RESTAURANTS
American
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
630 51 19, www.champions.pl. The best known sports
bar in town. Autographed shirts, trophies, parping darts
machines and even a boxing ring, theyre all here. Squeezed
between the glitz and dazzle are sports screens of every
size and style, ensuring a largely male audience dont miss
a kick in between pig big portions of cheeseburgers, wings
and potato skins. Find it on the ground floor of Warsaws
most vi si bl e hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (30-89z).
PTAUXSW
Hard Rock Caf B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.com/
warsaw. Its hard to knock the Hard Rock, a two level
venue featuring Presleys shirt, Lennons jacket and Sha-
kiras pants (trousers, not knickers). Its not just big, its
huge, and the food angle meets requirements with fab
fajitas and a tasty Hickory Bacon Cheeseburger, while
servi ce is strai ght from the have a ni ce day training
manual. The menu doesnt miss a trick ei ther, artfull y
reminding consumers that, no meal is complete without
our classic logo t-shirt. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (29-89z).
PTA6UEGBSW
SomePlace Else C- 4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton War-
saw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace- else.pl. SPE has been serving up some of
the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remem-
ber to a backdrop of route 66 memorabilia, li ve sports
and li ve musi c in the evening. Add to that the drop-dead
gorgeous wai tstaf f and the extremel y well -stocked bar
and you al ready had the reci pe for i ts success. Now
theyve gone and gi ven the pl ace a compl ete facel i ft
wi th the bar been torn down to make i t more open plan
and an industrial l ook replacing the Ameri cana and i ts
got better. The menu also includes faj i tas, steaks, thai
curri es and king prawns. Recommended parti cularl y i f
you are sl eeping upstairs so you won t have far to haul
your happil y fed sel f. QOpen 12:00 - 01:45, Mon 12:00
- 00:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:45, Sun 12:00 - 23:45. (41-
160z). PTAUEGBSW
T.G.I. Fridays E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 29, tel. (+48)
22 653 83 60. The Fri days experi ence as repl i cated
the worl d over, so no surpri ses to fi nd Ameri cana
apl enty and staf f fi tted out wi th bel l s, whi stl es and
other moroni c marki ngs. The Warsaw op features
decent burgers and, i f you catch them on the ri ght day,
some smashi ng steaks. By day a fami l y fave, at ni ght
i ts a bi t more grown up wi th expats and l ocal s, usual l y
i n of fi ce atti re, dri nki ng shots and brayi ng for cocktail s.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (29-
65z). PTAUGBSW
Bagels
Love Bagels C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 50, tel. (+48) 502
67 71 28, www.lovebagels.pl. A hole in the wall on Nowy
wiat it might be, but for the snack-hungry yet kebabed-out
amongst you, this is a hole well worth investigation. Ten
types of bagel with all the fillings you can imagine (and a
few you probably cant) and they serve good soup by the
cup. Its not quite the Warsaw first they claim (we have had
decent bagels before) but it certainly is the answer to all
your Where do I get a good, cheap lunch on Nowy wiat
problems. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. (7-15z).
Warsaws come a long way and fast, and nowhere is the
urban vibrancy more apparent than in the citys progres-
sive culinary scene. The immediate post-communist
obsession with Italian has since given way to fusion,
sushi and - most recently - Indian trends, and dining
out is now a truly international experience. Disappoint-
ments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy or plainly
incompetent service being a common lament. Youd
think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory. Not
so. Venues will more often than not close their doors if
business is slow. Other restobars often employ different
sets of hours for bar and kitchen the times we list in
such cases are for the kitchen. By and large reservations
are only necessary for large groups, and the prices we
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and
most expensive main course on the menu. As regards
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of
recommendations depending what you are looking for.
Business
Most of the places in the CBD are geared to the idea
of business dining, and leading the pack are 99 one of
Warsaws best venues for closing that deal for over 10
years now. The Lobby bar at the Marriott is many peoples
unofficial office with dining options including the new
Chopstix sushi bar and Champions within the building.
Restauracja Rana is an experienced local offering that
will impress the client and give you room to talk.
Cheap
The many Bar Mleczny canteens are a legacy to the
communist past, and while theyre cheap you may wish
to swerve them unless you really are bone broke and
starving. Try instead Podwale Kompania Piwna where
mains go for around 30zl and arrive in obscene portions.
Couples
Dom Polski is another top class local restaurant offering
a romantic country house backdrop to your evening. Also,
try the inner courtyard at U Fukiera for a similar effect.
And who does romance better the French supposedly.
Try the cosy La Table to impress the lady in that case.
Kids
Check out the Sunday Brunches held in hotels across
Warsaw; most come armed with a nanny and games,
giving you carte blanche to eat and be merry. Hard Rock
Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they do know
how to make your special ones feel special.
Lads
Bierhalle and Browarmia not only brew their own
beers on site but they do a fair line in food as well with
happy hours and special offers throughout the week.
Then theres the Warsaw Tortilla Factory; prove your
worth to the team by guzzling lager from private taps
while chucking down missile hot habanero sauce down
your chute.
Polski
Eat Commie style in Oberza Pod Czerwonym Wiepr-
zem, or for the peasant experience try Chlopskie Jadlo
or Folk Gospoda. Meanwhile Dekanta give you the
chance to experience food from the time of the partitions
with their menu from the time of the Austro-Hapsburg
rule. Belvedere give you the chance to eat high quality
Polish food in the palatial surroundings of Lazienki Park
while Restauracja Rana and Dom Polski have long
been two of Warsaws top Polish eateries.
Eating at a glance
42
RESTAURANTS
What it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few
rowdy evenings to knock off the new look. Find it a stones
throw south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50z). PTA6BXSW
London Steak House F-3, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48) 22
827 00 20, www.londonsteakhouse.pl. A dark, forbidding
eatery thats acquired a reputation for the most ridiculous
version of the British fry-up youll ever come across - you
might want to bring some toilet paper with you. This place
hasnt seen a spring clean since the 90s, and its starting
to look increasingly knackered - remember that red phone
box and miserable coat check chap? Theyre still here. As
are the same chefs by the looks of it; the food is certainly
every bit as bad as it was a couple of years back. The name
suggests steak is the forte here, though weve yet to find
any evidence of this. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-88z).
PTAGBSW
Catalan
Taste Barcelona C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48)
22 434 20 86, www.tastebarcelona.com. Appearing
on Krucza in the premises which once housed the legend
that was EsSence this is the first Catalan restaurant we
have ever listed in Poland. It feels a bit like its being run by
the tourism department of Barcelona and perhaps after
eating here youll be inclined to book a flight. They have a big
range of well made montaditos (bruschetta to you and I) and
seafood, at slightly above average prices. Given the location
it makes for a sensible choice whether you are looking to join
the adjacent office bods for lunch or a centrally located din-
ner spot before a night on the town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,
Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(25-65z). PTAUGBSW
Balkan
Banja Luka G-6, ul. Puawska 101, tel. (+48) 22 854
07 82, www.banjaluka.pl. Warsaws best garden? Quite
possibly. As the evenings get longer head here for a relaxing,
laid back meal al fresco. And even if it rains the interiors have
bags of atmosphere as well, and the rough carpentry and local
pottery make a nice backdrop for some serious feasting. Oh,
and bring an appetite, portions here are immense, and almost
certainly enough to give your scales something to worry about.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-59z). PTA6EBXSW
British
Fish&Chips F-4, ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. (+48) 692 24 08
04, www.fishandchips.pl. In terms of national importance
the institution otherwise known as The Great British Chippy
comes somewhere between Churchill and cricket. And rightly
so. Now with some seating added, its well worth the queue to
get your hands on their battered cod and chunky chips. This
place is the real deal, with extras including peas, curry sauce,
malted vinegar and bacon rolls, though the owners will no
doubt do their best to see you leave with a deep fried Snickers.
Were firm fans, and homesick Brits should also note they also
double as a front for a range of import products: from Scrumpy
cider to scrumptious packet food. QOpen 11:30 - 21:00, Sun
13:00 - 19:00. (10-25z) PTA6GBS
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak
and kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports
(if the waitress can work out which channel is showing what).
43
RESTAURANTS
Chinese
Cesarski Paac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22
827 97 07, www.cesarskipalac.com. The lunch deal is
one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a free-
for-all once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese
flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though its this
lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: theres
just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best
it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun
12:30 - 22:00. (29-136z). PTAGBSW
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served
in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed
Wilanow district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants
the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns
and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain
centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus
on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a
comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully pre-
sented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at
Wilanow, youll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka, the
start of which is the left of the two streets directly across
the road from the palace entrance. Its definitely worth the
walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (22-59z). PTAUVGSW
The Oriental C-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.sheraton.com.pl. Exquisite
dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen from
Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earning particularly high
scores. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. From July 25
open only for Sunday brunch. (35-140z). PTAUGSW
The Hol ocaust and the
subsequent destruction
of Warsaw in WWII erased
virtually all remnants of the
bustling pre-war Jewish
communitys presence in
the city, but there is one
place where it is possible
to sense thi s l ost age.
There are two rows of
dilapidated tenement houses, dating from 1880-1900 on
ul. Prna (B-3) showing what Warsaw must have looked
like and adding to this is a series of posters hung in the
windows of some of the disappeared Jewish community.
These photos are there thanks to a project called I cigle
widz ich twarze (I can still see their faces) which was cre-
ated by Goda Tencer, a Polish actress with Jewish origins
who is the founder and director of the Shalom Foundation.
In 1994 she had the idea of appealing for people to send
in photographs of Polish Jews so that an exhibition could
be created commemorating those who died. The response
was incredible and over 9,000 photographs were sent in,
some from survivors and their families, some from Polish
neighbours or friends of those killed. Then in 2008 the I
can still their faces exhibition was mounted in ul. Prna
as part of the commemorations of the 65th anniversary
of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite stunning particu-
larly when you consider this street was once bustling with
life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families. Located in
the heart of a now bustling city, this really is a place worth
a moment of your time.
I still see their faces
Jacek Barcz, courtesy of
Shalom Foundation
The first Chinese restaurant serving
cuisine from the Jiangsu region.
Lunch from only 11zl.
We warmly invite you.
ul. Kazachska 1, Warszawa Wilanw, Tel. +48 (22) 241 10 10, +48 516 175 735, www.chinagarden.pl
44
RESTAURANTS
Czech
U Szwejka F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22
339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establish-
ment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of
simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while
it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions
are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best sti ck to
ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit
in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji.
Patience is a good tactic to use with the staff, but theres
certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the
dismal waiting times by ordering in steins. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (18-40z).
PTAEBXSW
French
Bistro de Paris B-2, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel. (+48)
22 826 01 07, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.
What was once a haven of voluptuous drapes and vin-
tage bottl es has muted i ts tone - gone is the froufrou
el egance, replaced instead by a crisp desi gn that hints
at Galli c class. Yes, head chef Mi chel Moran has created
a masterpi ece, and the menu here, parti cularl y the fish,
is ri ghtfull y regarded as one of the hi ghli ghts of foodi e
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Cl osed Sun. (63-83z).
PTAGBS
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kocielna 12 (Mamaison
Le Regina Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www.
leregina.com. A hi gh i mpact treasure that will l eave
you bowl ed over. Decorated wi th cal mi ng vani l l a and
caramel col ours thi s good l ooker i s al l youd expect
from Warsaws best hotel, and a worthy indul gence i f
youre l ooki ng to i mpress. Head chef Pawe Oszczyk
isn t afrai d to experiment, and hes created a menu that
bl ends the best of Polish and French cooking. For a real
experience check out the gourmands menu, a si x course
caper through the best the ki tchen has to of fer. Recom-
mended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
(68-197z). PTAGBSW
La Table F-3, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. (+48) 22 622
92 14, www.latable.com.pl. Decked in rich violet colours
and flock effect wallpaper the slick looking La Table isnt half
as expensive as first impressions might suggest. In fact,
lamb and steak aside, most mains hit the mid-thirty mark,
their number including pan-fried sea bream. The end result
is more than positive, but thats what youd expect when
the cooking is left in the hands of a Frenchman. Note that
the kitchen is closed from 15:00-17:00 Mon-Fri. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Sat 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (29-71z).
PAGBW
Saint Jacques A-3, ul. witokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)
22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Despi te being
incredi bl y well l ocated, this strip has never been that
great a place to open a restaurant. Directl y across the
road from the Warsaw Financial Centre and a few more
metres from the Intercontinental hotel, this new French
venture l ooks set to buck the trend. A range of well -
prepared French favouri tes (yes including frogs l egs and
snails) are served in a cracking little venue reminiscent of
a Paris bistro with black and white floor to ceiling pictures
of French street scenes whi ch make i t easy to forget the
busy ci ty speeding by outsi de. The Entrecote et sauce
Fois Gras wi th gratin dauphinoise potatoes was l ooked
great and tasted j ust as good. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(34-56z). PAGBS
ORIGINAL
CHINESE CUISINE
CESARSKI PALAC
Senatorska 27
tel. 022 827 97 07
www.cesarskipalac.com
Burger King A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 713 86 15 88, www.burgerking.com.pl. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (11-20z). PAUGSW
KFC C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 713
86 16 90, www.kfc.pl. Also at ul. Widok 26 (B-4), Zota
59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy) and Al. Solidarnoci 68 A (A-2).
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (12-16z). PTAUGSW
McDonalds B-3, ul. Marszakowska 126/134, tel.
(+48) 694 49 60 15, www.mcdonalds.pl. Various loca-
tions including ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy), Al. Jerozolim-
skie/ Jana Pawa II, pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa Centralna;
A-4) and Al. Solidarnoci 117 (A-2).QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. (13-17z). PTAGSW
Pizza Hut B-4, ul. Widok 26, tel. (+48) 22 828
10 92, www.pizzahut.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (15-50z). PTAUGBSW
Subway C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828
40 25, www.swiezo.pl. Sandwiches in Poland have
traditionally been sub-standard affairs (green tomatoes,
stray gherkins, you know the drill), but Subway redress
the balance serving a cracking range of sarnies that
vary from pocket size to the length of your arm. Combos
range from teriyaki chicken to meatball, all made using
fresh ingredients and served to a choice of bread. Re-
peat customers should ask for a loyalty card. Also at Al.
Jerozolimskie 31 (B-4) and Zote Tarasy (A-4). QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (9-18z). PA6UGSW
Fast Food & Delivery
45
RESTAURANTS
Stanislas Brasserie A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 22 (Mer-
cure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
528 03 60, www.accorhotels.com. Hotel restaurants
rarely get better than this. Though we would prefer it i f the
curtains which block out the outside world would come
down, we really couldnt fault the food. The roast sirloin with
Bearnaise sauce might be expensive (as in 84z expensive)
but it is completely worth it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (42-
79z). PTAUGSW
Fusion
Babalu G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 33, tel. (+48) 22
424 66 66, www.babalu.pl. The set up is straight for-
ward in Babalu, simply pay a set fee (30-40zl, depending
on the time and day) and then walk amid canteen-style
buffet stations helping yoursel f to whatever is on offer.
In this case its a range of international offerings, includ-
ing Thai, Chinese and Medi terranean, served inside a
kid friendly environment that can get seriously lively. The
results are open to debate, depending what you have,
though we confirm their Thai experiment as certainly more
hit than miss - try the soups. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-
40z). PTAGW
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.westin.pl. Beauti full y
presented food in the modern, i f regularl y quiet, interiors
of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, i f a tad
pri cey compared to ci ty restaurants, but you get what
you pay for, wi th everything being of a superior quali ty.
Regul ar seasonal speci al s based around par ti cul ar
ingredi ents keep happy l ocal foodi es coming back for
more. Great brunch.QOpen 06: 30 - 10: 30, 12: 00 -
22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30. (45-150z).
PTAUGSW
Orchidea B-3, ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. (+48) 22 827 34
36, www.restauracjaorchidea.pl. As long as you dont
want a Michelin star chef to cook your meal, you will enjoy
it here. Good, well-priced food in a decent setting on a busy
street. Plenty of outside seating will make it quite literally
a cool place to dine - in spring and summer at least. A
mix of diners from top business types going incognito to
giggling schoolgirls confirm the laid-back vibe. Nice one.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (32-51z).
PTA6GBSW
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,
www.papaya.waw.pl. Well never tire of recommending
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restau-
rants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the
chefs at work; these guys dont miss a beat, and show off
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like
steamed bass in banana leaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32-
265z). PTABXSW
Sense C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel. (+48) 22 826
65 70, www.sensecaf e.com. Pi oneers on the fu-
si on/fashi on scene, Sense i s one hal f cocktai l bar,
one hal f restaurant. Whether your moti ve i s dri nki ng
or di ni ng i t pays to combi ne the two here, el se youl l
j ust be mi ssi ng out. The cocktai l s are notewor thy, but
so too the Del ta Bl ue steak, one of the best excuses
youl l ever fi nd for ki l l i ng somethi ng that went moo.
Pl enty of wok and noodl e di shes to pi ck from, as wel l
some desser ts of l egend. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00,
Fri , Sat 12: 00 - 00:30, Sun 13: 00 - 21: 00. (25- 69z).
PTABXSW
French Head Chef
Thomas Rubio
Delicious sea food
and excellent
quality meats
We invite for an unforgettable dining experience
Lunch ~ Dinner ~ Great wines ~ Cocktails
La Table has been nominated by Gazeta Wyborcza for the
Restaurant of the Year 2010 award
ul. Nowogrodzka 38
Open Mon - Fri 12-22,
Sat 15-22
www.latable.com.pl
restauracja@latable.com.pl
tel. 22 622 92 14
46
RESTAURANTS
the number of plug-in points are a result for stay-away
loafers who work anywhere but the office. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (25-55z).
PTAGBSW
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622
53 33, www.612.pl. A prominent Warsaw caf, and one
popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use of
the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12 features
trance like music and subdued lighting, adding a chilled out
element to this long-living establishment. However, this
place is so much more than a caf, and a thumb through
the menu confirms so; the smoothies, and theres millions to
choose from, are hands down the best in the city, while food
choices include a range of light gourmet bites youd imagine
a Kate Moss character stabbing her fork at. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (36-75z).
PTA6GBSW
Hungarian
Borpince B-4, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 44,
www.borpince.pl. Good trout, as well as the signature
Hungarian dish: goulash. If your pleasures are more liquid
then youll be pleased to know theyve also got a bit of a rep
as a wine bar; we counted over 100 on their list, and have
been assured that in reality they stock over 100. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (27-76z). PTAGSW
Indian
Annapurna A- 4, ul. Twarda 56, tel. (+48) 22 409
44 00, www.annapurnarestauracja.pl. The location is
unpromising, as is the exterior, but they manage to over-
come such trifles and make customers happy by serving
up some very good Asian food. We are usually wary of
places that try to do too much (its mainly an Indian menu,
but its fused with flavours from further east) but we were
impressed here. The garlic duck with chilli was ace. And hot.
Perfect place for groups. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (20-40z).
PTAUVGBSW
Arti H- 3, ul. Francuska 5a (Saska Kpa), tel. (+48)
22 617 11 22. Weve l ong been promised an Arti Mk
II, and l o and behol d here i t is. Finall y. Has i t been worth
the wai t? Certainl y. Far more classy than the ci ty centre
venue, the Saska Kepa version has a smart l ook and
even a chandeli er to i ts name. The interi ors certainl y
pass muster, but so does the menu, a comprehensi ve
rundown of al l the I ndian cl assi cs. The chi cken ti kka
masala is king here, though would have been a little more
enj oyabl e had the workmen outsi de fall en down one of
their manhol es. Find the ori ginal more basi c version at
(A-4) Al. Jerozolimski e 121/123 QOpen 11:30 - 22:30.
(21-50z). PTAUVGBS
Bollywood Lounge B- 3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48)
22 827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. Bi zarre i t
mi ght be: a ki tsch venue that i s part restaurant part
Bol l ymood musi c-fest - but the consi stent qual i ty of
the food served here marks i t down as one of the best
I ndi ans i n the ci ty and wi th 18z l unch speci al s one of
the cheapest. I t has al ways i mpressed us wi th not j ust
the vari ety of the di shes on of fer - from some cracki ng
pakora and di m sum to ki ck of f wi th to the tawa chi cken
and kal ej masal a - but al so because they never, ever
say we don t have that today. How refreshi ngl y un-
I ndi an-i n-Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 -
01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-36z).
PAVBXSW
Galician
C.K. Obera B- 4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners, pints
of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside
a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all
pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and
happil y consumed by crowds who recognize a serious
bargain. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (25-
49z). AGS
Georgian
Bar Gruziski Argo B-2, ul. Piwna 46, tel. (+48) 22
635 06 03. Where once was the smallest curry house in
all Poland now stands a Georgian chop house which serves
brilliant food at cracking prices. The lamb in plum sauce is
top notch, and the chinkali (Georgian dumplings) will give any
pierogi in town a run for their money. Only a handful of tables,
so reserve if you want to eat here at weekends. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00. (24-38z). GS
Maa Gruzja B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. (+48)
604 54 36 20, www.mala- gruzja.pl. Second Geor-
gian restaurant to open its doors in the space of a few
months, the more the merrier we say. A slightly sunken
establishment with sturdy tables and boisterously friendly
staff who want you to have a nice time, and who serve up
big portions of all your Georgian faves, such as braised
lamb in Georgian white wine, cooked until its so tender
it melts in the mouth. Cheap as chips, its a winner in our
book. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
(18-40z). AGS
German
Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73
84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Its been years since Adler
was touted as a top restaurant, but those who do visit will
find just that. Still popular with an over-40 business crowd
this circular haunt comes laden with peasant contraptions,
and serves up classic German recipes presented by girls
dressed as Heidi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 -
23:30. (39-65z). PTAGBS
Greek
El Greco A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. (+48) 22 654 04
58, www.elgreco-restauracja.pl. On the downside is a
location on the ground floor of a hulking sixties tower block.
Fortunately theyve done a good job on doing it up, and youll
only notice now weve told you. It certainly looks the deal with
a light, bright atmosphere, while the menu is the complete
Grecian experience, right down to the excellent seafood.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (32-70z).
PTAUBXSW
Healthy Eating
4 Ye Goode Foode C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48)
22 434 23 88, www.yegoodefoode.pl. With this name
youd be forgiven for expecting an English-style carvery - you
know the deal, Sunday roasts served by a bonnet and apron
wench. No such luck, instead this place celebrates healthy
whole food dining starring organic produce and unprocessed
ingredients. And my, it tastes great. Highlights include sand-
wiches with smoked mackerel, tofu paste, pomegranate
seeds and coriander as well as chicken soup with coriander
and ginger. And its not just the menu that impresses; YGF
turn a small, square space into a good looking gaff, while
el Greco
9 Grzybowska St.
00-131 Warsaw
tel / fax. +48 22 654 04 58
www.elgreco-restauracja.pl
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 11-23, Sat-Sun 12-23
Greek and Mediterranean cuisine
The food is a feast, so escape the rush and enjoy
a long evening in Greece
Thanks to our Greek chef you will truly get to know original
Greek flavors in our unique atmosphere
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48
RESTAURANTS
Buddha Indian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 23,
tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha
really impressed when they opened up a couple of years back
giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the city.
Maybe it was the fact that there was less competition around
then, but recent reconnaissance has left us feeling a bit dis-
appointed. Its still not bad and the decoration and the sight
of Indians running the show all tick the right boxes. But the
explosion of Indian restaurants in recent times mean there
are now better places in the centre for your subcontinent
fix. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (16-60z).
PTAVGBSW
Ganesh F-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. (+48) 22 623 02
66, www.ganesh.pl. Stop press: our ten year search for
the perfect curry is over, and Ganesh romps home by a
country mile. Set in a well planned, modern Eastern interior,
the starters here are gorgeous, but the real praise comes
reserved for the mains. The tikka masala is delicious, while
the chicken madras subtly builds to a fiery crescendo - ouch
indeed. Negatives dont exist here, and even the staff appear
to have been recruited from a catwalk. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(30-50z) PTAGSW
India Cook House B-3, ul. Zota 9, tel. (+48) 22 499 09
90, www.indiach.com. A very acceptable Indian restaurant
also offering a couple of Thai dishes alongside staples like
chicken tikka masala which are prepared with spices and
prices set at the right level. The location is both handy and a
bit ropey set as it is yards away from Chmielna next to the tun-
nel that connects this side of Marszalkowska with the Palace
of Culture directly opposite. That said the place is bright and
modern with a smattering of tables set over a small downstairs
area and mezzanine. The cheap lunch deals on offer from
11-15 and a bi-lingual menu make it a decent enough choice.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (25-69z). PAUVGS
India Curry C-4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48) 22 438 93
50, www.indiacurry.pl. With prices set higher than the com-
petition India Curry is a bit of a favourite with British business
types conducting expense account dinners. This certainly
has to be the most formal of Warsaws Indian restaurants,
and the elegant atmosphere is rounded off nicely with a
burbling fountain and fawning service. The murgh mekhani
is the house favourite, and quietly enjoyed by a well-behaved
crowd of after-work suits. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-60z).
PTAUVGSW
Katmandu B-4, ul. Wsplna 65a, tel. (+48) 22 622 00
26, www.katmandu.com.pl. Gone are the days when a
curry in Warsaw would entail a multi-zero bill; Katmandu are
the latest in a series of budget-minded restaurants, with a
mouth-watering menu featuring Thai, Nepalese and predomi-
nantly Indian dishes. The interiors are bare-bones, featuring
little more than stone-clad flooring and whitewashed walls,
but the cooking is certainly up to scratch. Its good, but the
main problem here is the location - central, yes, but also in a
part of town thats already got a spread of established, and
highly recommended, Indian restaurants. Can they survive?
If the chicken kadai is anything to go by, the answer is af-
firmative. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-36z). PTA6VGBSW
Mandala B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. (+48) 22 891
06 19, www.mandalaklub.com. Entrance to Mandala
is via a grubby courtyard, one occasionally frequented by
weathered hags practising a profession as old as they.
With this considered Mandala is a bit of a surprise, and
its a nailed on favourite with students sorts and swamp-
land eco warriors with scary dreadlocks. Decorated with
ul. Przeskok 2, Warsaw
tel: 22 827 02 83
www.bollywoodlounge.pl
warsaw@bollywoodlounge.pl
ul. Przeskok 2, Warsaw
tel: 22 827 02 83
Heart of India
in the center of Warsaw
Heart of India
Follow us on Facebook!
facebook.com/bollywoodloungepl
49
RESTAURANTS
whitewashed walls and vague industrial touches this place
morphs into a popular club at weekends, though most know
it for their budget priced Indian/Nepalese menu. A couple of
years ago it would have been considered one of the best in
town, now however the competition has definitely made in-
roads. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (19-59z).
PTAVEBXSW
Royal India A-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 45 A lok. 43, tel.
(+48) 22 636 00 70, www.royalindia.waw.pl. Indian
cooking hits new depths of despair in Royal India, a half-
hearted effort with a vapid atmosphere and dishes that
clearly fall below par: dont be surprised to find yourself dis-
creetly coughing bits of chicken into your napkin. Indeed, youll
find a better bird across the road in Kentucky Fried Colonel.
Completing the picture are watery curries that have little or
no hit, the madras included. See you again, said the owner
hopefully as we left. No, no chance. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(15-60z). PTA6UVGBSW
Indonesian
Galeria Bali Buddha Club B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel.
(+48) 22 828 67 71, www.galeriabali.pl. A lavish and
elaborate effort where staff in ceremonial attire lead diners
to a dining room adorned with imported keepsakes. The
incense filled interior is a riot of statuettes and iconography,
and everything you see is up for sale - including the great big
golden Buddha. The owner is a self-confessed nut when it
comes to Indonesia, and his passion is evident in the millions
of details that become apparent once your eyes finish roving.
That the local Indonesian community profess to dining here
should tell you enough about a menu that involves exotics
such as Bali style squid. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-600z).
PTA6GSW
International
99 A- 3, Al. Jana Paw a II 23, tel. (+48) 22 620
19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fi xture on the
War saw di ni ng scene for over ten year s and sti l l
goi ng strong i n the l ocal corporate l unch trade. An
updated desi gn whi ch i s space age whi te and rather
dashi ng compl i ments a hi ghl y-recommended, gl obal
menu whi ch i ncl udes whats possi bl y the best steak
i n Warsaw. Located wi thi n a stones throw of some
of the ci t ys fi nest hotel s, thi s i s one of the most rel i -
abl e pl aces i n town from breakfast through to supper
whether youre soci al i si ng, doi ng busi ness or a bi t
of both. QOpen 08: 00 - 23: 00, Fri 08: 00 - 24: 00,
Sat 15: 00 - 24: 00, Sun 12: 30 - 22: 00. (59-109z).
PTA6UBXSW
NEW
Absurd228 ul. Pu awska 228 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 252 04 01, www.absurd228.pl. We know
the 228 represents the number of the bui l di ng found
a 10 mi nute wal k south of Wi l anowska metro stati on
(stay ri ght not l ef t as googl emaps suggests) but we
have no i dea about the Absurd bi t. Cer tai nl y wor th a
l ook i f youre down i n the Mokotow or Wi l anow par t
of the ci t y, the resi dents of whom of ten get to enj oy
bet ter rest aurant s at cheaper pr i ces t han t hose
di ni ng i n the centre. The food here i s ver y good and
whi l e we enj oyed the sturgeon i n cucumber sauce
wi th bl ack cavi ar and new potatoes, we l oved the
curr y soup wi th seafood even more. Enj oy them i n
a modern space featuri ng a stage whi ch pl ays host
t o occasi onal l i ve musi c per f or mances. QOpen
09: 00 - 22: 00, Sat, Sun 12: 00 - 22: 00. (20-50z).
PTA6UVEGBSW
50
RESTAURANTS
Akademia Smaku C- 3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 106,
tel. (+48) 22 828 99 01, www.akademia- smaku.
com.pl. Theres no shortage of sex appeal in the Taste
Academy, a swi sh spot wi th mi rrors fastened to the
ceilings and neat rows of wine bottl es standing by the
walls. The menu is posi ti vel y one dimensional compared
to the compli cated art you find served on some Warsaw
plates, and whil e i t doesn t do anything exci ting what
i t does, i t does well. A decent spot, and not far from
all the action ei ther. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (19-79z).
PTA6UEGBSW
Amadera A- 4, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505
91 86, www.amadera.pl. A recommended eatery j ust
of f one of the ci tys mai n pedestri an thoroughfares.
The modern wooden furni shi ngs gi ve an el egant feel
without making the place snooty and the friendl y English-
speaking staff do a good j ob of making you feel welcome.
The menu foll ows the tri ed and tested combination of
meats, fi sh, pasta and sal ads wi th the roasted duck
coming in for parti cular praise. Wed recommend hi tting
them at lunch time when their special menu gi ves you
j ust the ri ght amount of well -prepared food at the ri ght
pri ce. Set in a courtyard best accessed through the gate
at Chmielna 15. Also now serving breakfast, from 07:00-
10:30 (Sat, Sun 08:00-10:30). Q Open 07:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(36-58z). PTA6UBXSW
Bezgraniczna B- 3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok. 20 (en-
trance from ul. Graniczna), tel. (+48) 22 436 35 35,
www.bezgraniczna.pl. Well in the running for the ti tl e
of Warsaws best-hi dden restaurant, this venue is in the
unpromising confines of the first floor of an office block/
shoppi ng centre. Amazi ngl y, however, wi th cl ever use
of some very ni ce furni ture theyve managed to create
a pl easant atmosphere worthy of far grander l ocal es.
Decent food too, and though i ts far more popular at
lunchtime than in the evening the l ocation shoul d not
put you of f: indeed, you can impress peopl e wi th your
knowl edge of Warsaw by bri ngi ng them here. QOpen
12: 00 - 23: 00, Mon, Sun 12: 00 - 22: 00. (19-49z).
PTA6UGSW
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (Arkadia), tel.
(+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. With a name
like Bierhalle youd be right to think the beer comes first
here. Brewed in huge glass vats the in-house beer is the
best for miles, but dont let drunkenness get in the way
of eating. The menu here is the perfect foil for the liquid
offerings, and includes hefty fillers like sausage and her-
ring. More demanding appetites should try the schnitzel
feast, a timely protein boost for the night that beckons.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:45. (18-50z).
PTAUGBSW
Brasserie ul. wirki i Wi gury 1 (Courtyard by
Marriott Hotel, Okcie), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 74,
www.marriott.com/hotel s/travel/wawcy- court-
yard-warsaw- airport. Si tuated i n the Courtyard Hotel
opposi te the ai rport thi s pl ace makes i ts way i nto our
l i sti ngs on account of bei ng your best (and onl y) opti on
i f youve j ust got of f the fl i ght from hel l, have had your
day disrupted by strikes or find yoursel f between fli ghts.
Hats of f to hi m, head chef Tadeusz Cendrowi cz has
come up wi th a bel ter of a menu, and your one probl em
wi l l be fi tti ng through the pl ane door after. Check out
the si rl oi n steak, or for somethi ng more snacky choi ces
like the club sandwi ch. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30. (58-88z).
PTAUGSW
ul. Pulawska 228, WARSZAWA I Iel. +/8 22 252 U/ U1
mob: +/8 666 U/8 576 I www.absurd228.pl
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51
RESTAURANTS
BrowArmia B- 3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. A microbrewery first
and foremost, though the food here is by no means an
afterthought. The menu goes way beyond pub grub, fea-
turing skewered chicken strips, ducks and steak, the lot
of which are complimented by an outstanding selection
of house brews. Watch the brewing process in action
from behind the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32-69z).
PTAEBXSW
NEW
Butchery & Wine B- 4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48)
22 502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonder-
ful addition to the Warsaw dining scene winning points
for ori gi nal i ty and si mpl i ci ty. Try to put the i mage of
mass slaughter over a glass of cabernet sauvignon out
of your mind and instead visit to be met by a polite and
well-drilled staff in pin-striped butchers aprons inside a
bright, modern, relaxed venue with an open kitchen and
enough wine on display to float a battleship. The menu
features a range of real steaks prepared exactly to order
and served on wooden boards with additional sauce and
side options. While it doesnt have to be steak (the rest of
menu looked mouth-watering) we cant imagine ever daring
to order anything but such was the enjoyment we took from
eating one. Recommended.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. (42-85z). PTAGW
Deco Kredens C-3, ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. (+48) 22
826 06 60, www.kredens.com.pl. We love this place, a
haven of real, authentic charm just off the tourist beat of
Nowy Swiat. Loads of different rooms - all with an Art Deco
bent - create a varied atmosphere, and there are all sorts of
ways to enjoy this place: in the bar with a beer, with a coffee
and cake or sitting down to a full-on extravaganza of a meal.
There is usually a special menu of daily specials to watch
out for: if they have them, we can recommend firsthand the
spinach pancakes with ricotta. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (35-108z). PTAGBSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaws biggest and best hotels, this place doesnt have
to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made
us love the place all over again, as the menu of simple
Italian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair
price. Look out for the changing specials, which on our last
trip included some terri fic grilled salmon with leek sauce.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49z).
PTAVGBSW
Flaming & Co Restaurant G-4, ul. Chopina 5, tel.
(+48) 22 628 81 40, www.flaming-co.com. Located
in the heart of Embassyland, the people over at Flamingo
(pronounce it the Polish way Fla-ming-co) have their cross-
bows aimed at the embassy and lady lunching crowd. And
with their New Hampshire beach house decor (think pastel
colours, whi te painted wooden floors, painted wooden
furnishings) and mix of pizza, pastas, and evening mains
of beef or tuna fillets, they might very well succeed. The
centrepiece is a round wood fired oven in front of which the
handsome young chef prepares excellent pizzas although
our Michelle which consisted of shrimps and a spicy sauce
did have us wondering just who Michelle was. A menu which
changes through the day from breakfast to lunch to dinner
makes this a place worth recommending at all hours. A huge
terrace and summer garden add to the attraction. QOpen
08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (32-77z). PTA6GBSW
52
RESTAURANTS
Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00 68,
www.flowbar.pl. A light, bright cafe bar on the corner of
Chmielna and Nowy Swiat, day time sees coffee and a decent
choice of lunch options served in a modern setting with large
windows offering plenty of people watching opportunities.
As day turns to night, this turns into a decent pre-club option
with guest DJs coming in to entertain the young and fash-
ionable crowd. One of the few central places with an indoor
smoking area incidentally. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00. PABXW
Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831
02 35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Caf?
A mix of all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition
to an area more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks
here include a glass topped atrium filled with plants and
posters, as well as a more formal chamber consisting of
antiques and gilt. This place is huge, and well worth pok-
ing around, and while the design suggests dollar signs it
actually transpires to be a very good deal. Salads are a
particular forte, though more voracious appetites should
look to the king prawns. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16-65z).
PTA6XSW
Gastronomia Rozrywkowa F-3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (en-
trance from ul. Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828 42 85,
www.gastronomiarozrywkowa.com. A two-level bistro
set on a quiet street just away from the hustle and bustle
in the centre of the city. A small downstairs area connects
to an intimate upstairs with black and white prints on walls
tastefully decorated with striped wallpaper set above wooden
picture rails. The menu is concise featuring an international
selection of well-prepared and presented dishes including
soups, salads, pastas and meat dishes. Good as a lunch
stop, where the daily specials are well-worth the few euro
prices, it is a particularly recommendable as a place for an
intimate meal away from the crowds of Chmielna with the
food matched by a good selection of wines and cocktails.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (22-43z). TA6GBSW
Glass House B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 44, tel. (+48) 696
63 06 19, www.glasshouse.waw.pl. You want central?
It does not get any more central than this. A restaurant, bar
and club GlassHouse rewards those who venture inside the
glass doors with a sound selection of fusion-inspired dishes
a cut above the norm. You will not find baked duck served
with cranberries on a bed of beetroot in too many Warsaw
restaurants, well tell you that for nothing. They even serve
apple pie and ice cream: extra points from us for that. Service
was sharp, too. Surprisingly good. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-45z). PAVXSW
Grand Kredens A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. (+48)
22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few places in
Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say splendid dining
experience. The decor is tremendously, enjoyably eclectic,
and the menu - with a terrific variety of fish (amongst much
else) to savour - well up to the challenge of its rivals. It is not
by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be
fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling
well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than
we have and its a treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. (33-83z). PTA6UEGBSW
Green Patio B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48)
22 628 21 04, www.greenpatio.pl. Owned by the
WARS company, would you believe - yep, the same chaps
behind the nosh and gruel found on Polish trains. So,
quelle surprise, this place is pretty damn good. First thing
Elusive ... Sweetness
DecoKredens, ul.Ordynacka 13, Warsaw
GrandKredens, Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw
www.kredens.com.pl
kredens@kredens.com.pl
The tastiest things
in life
Delicate Crispness
Aromatic ... Succulence
53
RESTAURANTS
to strike you is the interior, a modern green space that
tricks the eye into thinking an Eden-styl e garden is found
at the end. Then theres the food, made using organi c
and whol e food produce where possi bl e and far superior
to anything youd have had on the Warsaw-Krakw ex-
press. Cooked wi th a contemporary slant towards both
presentation and preparation this place isn t bad at all,
wi th the spinach pancakes a superb li ght lunch snack.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (28-44z).
PTAGBSW
Hotel Rialtos Restaurant F- 4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel.
(+48) 22 584 87 71, www.rialto.com.pl. The kitchen
here is run by a chap called Pawe Suchenek, a man whose
sharpened his talents in some of Europes most prestigious
hotels. His new look menu is a delight, from start to finish,
and includes some delectable starters, and an even bet-
ter salmon baked in puff pastry. Best of all, Suchenek has
created a light menu that doesnt leave the diner feeling
bloated, meaning its still possible to squeeze in a top slice
of apple pie at the finish. The restaurant itsel f is small
and stylish, set inside an Art Deco space that smacks
of the age of Lempicka, while the expert waiters have
mastered the art of appearing at just the right moment.
All in all a complete pleasure, and a true Warsaw highlight.
QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:30. (65-75z).
PTAUGSW
Inside Restaurant & Bar B- 4, ul. Marszakowska
64, tel. (+48) 22 621 21 81, www.inside-restaurant.
pl. Found in a first fl oor l ocation whose large windows
all ow you to gaze down onto the scampering masses
on Marszakowska. Previousl y home to the Asian Kwai,
the place has been gi ven a modern makeover and now
features warm browns and wooden furnishings in whi ch
to enj oy the surprisingl y well -pri ced menu. The food is
by no means bad but refl ects the pri ces you pay rather
than the surroundings you are enj oying i t in. Very chil d
friendly, they have a small play area and even a babysitter
on Sundays. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). PT
ABXSW
Jazz Bistro F-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41
51, www.jazzbistro.pl. A bit of an old-timer, but one that
still looks young and fresh and which always seems to have
a steady flow of custom. That is probably down to the very
reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled meat and fish dishes,
whose preparation and presentation match the surround-
ings. A recommended venue if you like your meal served to
the backdrop of live jazz. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. (29-59z). PTAUVEGSW
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel. (+48)
22 887 87 64, www.jazzbistro.pl. A venue of legend, with
a show stealing skylight allowing diners the privilege of dining
under the stars. Can anything be more romantic? Certainly,
like the old town location for a start. Faultlessly presented,
the menu here is global in style and every much the lure as
the jazz thats promised. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (25-48z).
PTAEGBSW
Marconi C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44
(Le Meridien Bristol), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 32, www.
lemeridien.com/warsaw. A wonderful venue located in the
famous Bristol hotel. The menu encompass a variety of influ-
ences and run includes an Argentine beef that some might
choose to die for. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 06:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 19:00-23:00. (39-119z).
PTAUGBW
54
RESTAURANTS
Meza E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel.
(+48) 22 356 55 76, www.hiltonwarsaw.pl. If youre stay-
ing in the Hilton there really isnt much reason to go beyond the
foyer. This place has it all, and that includes a superb restaurant
decorated with what can only be described as a psychedelic
magic carpet. Its a large area, but the designers have been
clever enough to incorporate lots of wood pillars to break up this
space, while a glass wall allows diners the opportunity to watch
all the comings and goings in the lobby; that means anything from
the arrival of daytime TV crews, to stubble clad stags plodding
around in dressing gowns. Thats eye catching enough, but the
real star of the show is Sven Thomsen. Hes the head chef, and
his menu is a fantastic mix of new Polish and European cooking.
And dont miss the Sunday Brunch, weve yet to find better in
Warsaw. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (58-159z). PTAUGS
Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63 33,
www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM, an old
favourite housed in Warsaws former telephone exchange. Re-
branded and given a slight makeover, this has been immediately
installed as one of our fave places in the city. There are in fact
now two venues in one: a bistro, which is open for lunch, and
a restaurant both now offering the same menu which offers
simple yet wonderfully cooked food (go for the beef shank with
mash potato); Not cheap but terrifically good value, it is well
worth a visit. Take a moment to check out the remnants of the
exchange on your way to the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40-75z). PTAGSW
Nomia B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. (+48) 22
831 43 79, www.nomia.waw.pl. Best known perhaps for its
flawless, extensive collection of New World wines, this New Town
restaurant is a fine place to impress dates or business partners.
Floor to ceiling glass and large tables invoke feelings of grandeur,
while the food gets top marks too, not least the baked duck and
the glorious apple pie. Not cheap, but for what you get, excellent
value. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-46z). TA6UGSW
Pepper Pub & Restaurant B-4, ul. Wilcza 35/41,
tel. (+48) 22 621 35 06, www.pepperpub.waw.pl. Last
time we tried to review this place we made the mistake of
thinking the not entirely dissimilar venue next door was it.
Dont do the same! Pepper is the place with its entrance in
the courtyard, serving a good mix of local and international
food, from tasty, dare we say upmarket ribs in terrific sauce
to a divine ciabatta with tuna. Prices very handy. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00, Fri 13:00 - 23:00, Sat 16:00 - 23:00, Sun
16:00 - 22:00. (22-28z). PAGBSW
Petit Moulin Rouge A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 08 64, www.petitmoulinrouge.pl. As
reluctant as we are to send readers to eat in shopping malls,
the apple pie with vanilla ice cream we ate here (on a red
leather sofa - the whole place is decked out in red leather
sofas) was so good that we just have to include it. The mains
are good too, and there is a cocktail list to rival most in the
city. Were it not in a shopping mall it would probably be one of
our favourite places in Warsaw. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (24-74z). PTAUGBSW
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25, tel.
(+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter via a mock
Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall filled with the sound
of beery antics and oompah music. The word here is size, with
Warsaws biggest portions coming within a whisker of sending
tables keeling. This is basically meat, cabbage and potatoes
served on huge wooden boards by waitresses obviously less
fragile than they look. Certainly the best value in Old Town, with
beer usually playing a big part in the evening. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (20-50z). PTUEXSW
Multimedia Fountain
Park (Multimedialny
Park Fontann) B-1,
Skwer i m. I Dywi zj i
Pancernej. A new tourist
attraction was opened in
May 2011 as part of the
city of Warsaws ongoing
attempt to increase the
citys number of cultural
and touri st attracti ons
and has been met with widespread acclaim and approval.
Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk to the
north of the old town, the Multimedia Fountain Park as
it is known is a visual delight combining music, light and,
as the name suggests, fountains.
Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain
is part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw district
by attracting visitors from the tourist trail close by
and cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367
nozzles which are capable of firing 800 cubic metres
of water 25m into the air over the rebuilt, 3,000 square
metre pond, the stunning visual show is provided by the
synchronisation of 295 LED RGB lights combined with a
laser projector with the fountain. Shows last about 30
minutes and include sets where the fountains are lit in
a myriad of colours or where lasers create visual effects
such as the Warsaw symbol of Syrena (the Mermaid)
moving through the water. By far the most impressive
part of the show is where a series of films and images
are projected onto a wall of water created by the spray
from the fountains. Youll see films following themes such
as Chopins Warsaw, Modern Warsaw or Legends of
Warsaw projected with remarkable clarity onto this wall
of water while pieces of music ranging from Chopin to
Lady Gaga blast from the surrounding speakers.
The shows have proved so popular that visitors are
warned to take up a position as early as possible on the
banked viewing terraces in order to get the best views
and early demand resulted in the number of shows
being increased to satisfy the large numbers of locals
and foreign tourists wanting to experience the show. We
thoroughly recommend it and while it is hardly the Bel-
lagio show from Vegas it is definitely an enjoyable way to
spend time after dining in the old town or as a starting
point to the evening ahead.
The shows take place every Friday and Saturday (during
June, July and August) at 21:30 moving to 21:00 in Sep-
tember. Find it between ul. Bole and ul. Kocielna (B-1)
Multimedia Fountain Park
55
RESTAURANTS
Poezja (Poetry) C-4, ul. Ksica 6, tel. (+48) 22 622
67 62, www.poezja.waw.pl. A well-designed, urbane eatery
with bags of charm found just downhill from pl. Trzech Krzyy.
The menu is modern European and on the whole comes highly
recommended from both ourselves and all we know who have
eaten here. We love the atmosphere - which has romance writ-
ten all over it - and were we the courting kind we would be wooing
potential Mrs. Pockets here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (52-72z). PTA6GSW
Przejcie dla Pieszych B-1, ul. Freta 19, tel. (+48)
22 635 53 48. A sound choice for vegetarians given the
array of non-meaty options on the menu, what we like best
about Przejcie dla Pieszych is the lunchtime menu: 20zl for
a very decent feed indeed. A-la-carte it is a bit pricier than
you might think, but given the quality of the duck with oranges
we had we could not complain. Good music too, played at
an acceptable level, always a bonus in our book. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (14-49z). AGS
Przystanek Chmielna B-4, ul. Chmielna 24, tel. (+48)
22 826 31 91, www.restauracjachmielna.pl. We were
perhaps a little hurried in reviewing this place last time out,
so in the spirit of objectivity we gave it another try. And we
liked it. To be fair, we liked it before, we just thought that the
prices were a bit too high. It has a great atmosphere, the
food is distinctly rather good - go with the daily suggestions
chalked up on the blackboard outside - service is smart
and prompt and given the location in the centre of the
city we shouldnt really be complaining about the prices.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 00:30. (29-67z).
PABEXSW
Restaur acj a Concept C- 3, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.
likusconceptstore.pl. Its hard to do justice to Concept res-
taurant, one of the most impressive dining experiences to be
found in Warsaw. Found inside a former pre-war bathhouse
this place is accessed down a gloomy looking courtyard,
flanked on each side by kebab stands and student dives.
Dont turn back. Instead find yourself in the exclusive Likus
Concept Store, where a turn to the left leads you into their
restaurant. Decorated with glazed floor tiles, shimmery fab-
rics and a skylight this place looks every inch a masterpiece.
Keeping up with the surrounds is the food, with a newly
launched menu that includes a near perfect steak. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (79-109z). PTAEXSW
Restaur acj a Kul tur a B- 2, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of
the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings.
Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons will bring
a legendary urek - amongst other local favourites - to your
table, before presenting you with a bill that should, given
quality, be far higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-49z).
TAGBS
Restauracja Wilanw ul. Stanisawa Kostki - Po-
tockiego 27 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.
restauracjawilanow.pl. An extraordinary excursion back
to the days of a planned Polish economy, this much talked
about classy restaurant serves a range of international and
Polish food in a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what
they say about the place theres no ignoring the service.
Breathtakingly snobby, expect to be treated like something
the cat dragged in if youre not dressed for the opera. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (32-58z). PTAGBS
56
RESTAURANTS
Restaurant @Ferdys A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radis-
son BLU Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www.
ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radis-
son. Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend
an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross
Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the
best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile one.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (44-139z). PTAUGBSW
NEW
Restro A-4, ul. Paska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66, www.
restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central Warsaw
streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re-appearing
again sometimes hundreds of metres away on the other side
of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you hunt down Restro,
a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch spot of ours, which
can be found to the south-east of the UN roundabout (Rondo
ONZ). The changing menu features offers a choice of excellently
priced set menus and dishes with a distinct Mediterranean feel.
The Black tagiolini with smoked salmon in a lime-cream sauce
is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have a dilemma
between that and one of the salads, the beef and spinach being
another winner. Recommended but mind the opening hours.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement for
larger groups only. (18-39z). PTAUVGBS
NEW
Rewers C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Warsaw University Li-
brary), tel. (+48) 507 61 86 18, www.restauracjarewers.
pl. A modern canteen style restaurant found in the Warsaw
University Library building close to the river and Copernicus
Science Centre, the opening of which made this an area of town
worth discovering even more. The food is good, honest, well-
priced Polish grub on account of the largely student customer
base and this serves as a perfect place to feed yourself and the
family if youre visiting the aforementioned Copernicus Centre
or the wonderful rooftop garden of the library.QOpen 08:30 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-23z). PTAGSW
Rozbrat 20 G-3, ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. (+48) 22 628 02 95.
To all intents and purposes, faultless. A fine dining experience
of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist
and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. We ate one of the
best prepared sea bass in the city here, and followed it up with
a light, subtle yet devilishly tasty Crme brle. The wine list
needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all Poland, and
knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best compliment
to your meal. An indulgence, go for it. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (47-85z). PTAGBS
Skwer B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. If location
is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a
prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiescie a stones throw from
the presidential place it looks like an architects show-home
yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the
students who flock here for coffee after lectures. By night the
crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen eating
the well-priced food (the Thai soup is good) through the glass
walls. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-45z). PAUGBSW
Sofa Clubistro B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from
ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. (+48) 22 626 14 15, www.
sofa.waw.pl. Bigger than it looks, we visited on a wet Mon-
day and were astonished how many people had also made
the trip: it was rocking. Really not bad at all and giving off
smooth, in-crowd-without-overdoing-it - vibes it is the kind
of place everyone is welcome in and - more importantly -
everyone will feel comfortable in, from suited types staying
over at the Marriott to backpackers in dreadlocks. The roast
57
RESTAURANTS
duck with cranberries in an orange sauce was an unexpected
treat. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 -
22:00. (29-55z). PTAUGBSW
Stacja Rynek B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 15, tel.
(+48) 22 635 76 82, www.stacjarynek.pl. What was a
charismatic but ultimately shabby bar has risen as a respect-
able restaurant occupying a corner of old town square. Set to
vaulted ceilings and chandeliers this dining room looks all the
more fabulous thanks to a muted design that offsets blood
red seats to a largely grey interior. The menu, considering
the squares reputation for rip-off, is fine and its not a bad
winery either, so worth a gander even outside dinner hour.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (26-58z). PTABXSW
St. Traffo C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 36, tel. (+48) 22 826 67
69, www.sttraffo.pl. Ringside views of Nowy Swiat are one
of the draws here, and with all the drinking that goes on here
its easy to overlook this place as a restaurant. Dont make
such a mistake, this is still a very good destination in an area
thats overflowing with options; the menu is Mediterranean in
spirit and features pretty good pizzas. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(16-69z). TAGBSW
Tamka 43 C-3, ul. Tamka 43, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 34,
www.tamka43.pl. Location, location, location. You could
probably open a dive serving tripe soup and nothing else and be
successful here (here being opposite the Chopin Museum), but
Tamka 43 would be brilliant anywhere. Modern and bright without
overdoing it, by day its coffee and cakes, mums and kids, (there
is a lunch option too) by night its serious drinks, light meals and
well dressed smoothies. We love it to bits. Q Open 12:00-15:00,
18:00-22:00. Sun 13:00-17:00. (35-80z). PAUG
The Olive C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.sheraton.com.pl. A mix of
faultless Polish and Mediterranean cuisine served in a curvy
glass room attached to the Sheraton. The Sunday Brunch -
featuring unlimited booze and food - is an expat highlight. Q
Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00; Sat 07:00 - 10:30, Sun
07:00-10:30, 12:30 - 16:30. (49-125z). PTAUEGS
Trylogia E-4, Pl. Zawiszy 1 (Jan III Sobieski Hotel), tel.
(+48) 22 579 10 08, www.sobieski.com.pl. Found in the
Sobieski Hotel we wouldnt normally be recommending the
restaurant of a four star hotel. This ones different though,
and thats the presence of head chef Wodzimierz Dbniak.
With its swirly carpets and staid design the restaurant
doesnt necessarily tick the design box, so its a good job
thats theres some serious skill at work in the background.
The menu changes with the season, and our advice is to let
Dbniak & Co. surprise you. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. (40-75z).
PTAUGSW
NEW
VaBank C-3, ul. witokrzyska 5, tel. (+48) 666 87 88
10, www.vabankrestauracja.pl. The name and some of
the styling of this newbie set around the corner from Nowy
Swiat comes from the cult Polish crime comedy of the 1980s
of the same name which was set in the 1930s. While the large
garden, attractively priced lunch specials and good looks are
all pluses the real draw is the food particularly if you are a
fan of the Dukan Diet. Alongside the well-prepared a la carte
menu which features a delicious duck baked with apples and
cranberries and a beef tartar with quail eggs, beetroot and
onion, you can also find a range of original recipes which
conform to the French protein and vegetable diet which has
become very fashionable in Poland. Not a bad place to stop by
later in the evening either for a drink before hitting the town.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (25-68z). PAVEGBSW
Restauracja & Drink Club VaBank
5 witokrzyska St., Warsaw
(Kubusia Puchatka St corner)
Reservations: +48 666 878 810
vabankwarsaw@gmail.com
www.vabankrestauracja.pl
Opening Hours: 12:00-22:00 or until the last guest
VaBank Warsaw
58
RESTAURANTS
Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 87
16, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Villa Foksal has long
had a name for good food and is a smart, modernish eatery
found on one of Warsaws sexiest streets. Presentation is
faultless, the cooking excellent and the menu an inventive
interpretation of standard European finds. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (32-69z). PAGBSW
Vinares Wine Bar B-2, ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel.
(+48) 22 828 88 61, www.vinares.pl. Wining and dining
takes on a new swish look with the opening of Vinares, a
fabulous vaulted bolthole situated on the steep cobbles of
ulica Bednarska. It gets top marks for sex appeal, with a
modern design that makes use of smooth blond woods and
virgin white arching ceilings, and youll find few better places
for a wine-fuelled smooch. The food, served on small square
plates, seems equally design conscious, and includes such
options as Spanish sirloin stuffed with mushrooms and dried
tomatoes. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (29-55z).
PTA6EGSW
Vinoteka La Bodega C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12,
tel. (+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. You may
remember the Vinoteka crowd from their old place across
the road or from one of their other premises around Poland.
If you do youll recognise this as probably the most impres-
sive space theyve yet occupied. Not only does it look great,
but theyve built on their previous success with a fantastic
collection of wine and a very impressive menu. And while the
food is great, its the wine that has always bought us back.
Find wines from all over the world in a part of what was once
Polands communist party HQ. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (26-67z). PAGBW
Vogue Style B-3, ul. Zota 7, tel. (+48) 22 827 66 01,
www.voguestyle.pl. Pink and purple have never looked so
good. The decor is bold enough to be ironic, and the separate
dining and drinking areas work well independently: feel free to
turn up here just to drink cocktails. But that would be to miss
out on the food, which is pretty good. Cream of celeriac soup
with truffles and salmon? Oh yes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri
12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (12-
46z). PTA6UGBSW
You & Me C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379 03
79, www.youandmebar.pl. The narrow as hell yet shaded
and glorious terrace is the top draw here in the warmer
months while they also make a half-decent stab at an English
breakfast. The lunchtime menu is top value, although we
question their claim to serve the cheapest beer in Poland
(have they been to Lublin). At night You & Me becomes a
rather trendy bar that fills up with no tie, coloured-shirted
types from the media companies whose offices line this
street. Come prepared to do and talk business and you will
love the place. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30-65z). PT
ABXSW
Italian
Bacio B-4, ul. Wilcza 43, tel. (+48) 22 626 83 03,
www.bacio.pl. Share space with romancing couples and
business types clinching deals inside a froufrou interior
decorated with vines and cherubs. On the menu a mix of
Polish and Italian dishes, including a divine pepper steak.
Whats more, whatever mood your in: garden, cellar or airy,
bright dining room, they can accommodate you. At this
time of year though, our tip is head straight for the garden.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (27-69z).
PTAUGBSW
While UEFAs decision to award Poland the honour of
co-hosting Euro 2012 was met with a collective scoff,
the naysayers may at least in one case be proved right.
The most important of all the projects connected to the
tournament is the construction of 3 new stadia to add to
Lech Poznas existing stadium which has been the first
to open having been modernised and extended to hold
46,000. The new stadium in Wrocaw costing 130 million
euro and designed to hold 43,000 is on schedule to open
in June. In the north in Gdansk work is nearly complete
on an amber shaped arena capable of housing 44,000
spectators, although the construction deadline has been
missed meaning the planned opening game, a friendly
between Poland and France, has had to be moved to
Legia Warsaws Lazienkowska stadium.
The capital meanwhile, which will be hosting the open-
ing ceremony, is in line to be home to the new national
stadium, one built on the former site of the legendary
Stadion Dziesiciolecia. With completion slated for June
30, 2011 over 1,300 workers have been employed to
work round the clock on the project, with the final results
including space for 55,000 fans, 860 journalists, subway
link and Olympic swimming pool. With hundreds of 45
metre support pillars driven into the ground to stabilize
the 25 metres of war rubble the stadium finds itsel f
on top of, the construction already looks extremely
impressive and can be seen clearly on the opposite
riverbank from the old town. Priced at 1.2 billion zlotys,
the stadium promises to be quite something, and fans
of commie history will be pleased to learn that Socialist
era relay statue at the entrance will also be preserved
in a nod to the sites past heritage. Despite several early
cock-ups work appeared to be progressing well with an
opening ceremony planned for June 2011 with rumours
of a match between the Polish national side and the
Germans. However as we went to print stories started
to circulate in the Polish press that all was not well.
First of all we heard that fifteen of the eighteen flights
of evacuation stairs from the upper tiers may not have
been properly secured and organisers were awaiting a
surveyors report. This was promptly followed by news
that the electrical system installed was not capable of
powering the whole stadium. An article in Dziennik Gazeta
Prawna claims work to fix this problem could result in a
delay of up to 10 months meaning the stadium would not
be ready until a few months before the opening match
of the Championships.
Organisers, however, remain confident that stadia will be
ready for an opening ceremony on September 6th and
you can check the latest developments and pictures at
www. stadionnarodowy.org.pl.
EURO 2012
NCS / J.Konik
59
RESTAURANTS
Bellini B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. (+48) 22
831 02 02, www.restauracjabellini.pl. As weve learnt
to expect from Magda Gessler the interiors are genius, all
arching brickwork and chintz style touches, and the menu
doesnt slack either. The pizza, including one named after
the grand dame of Warsaw cuisine, is excellent, but itd be a
waste not to go further afield and try their Tuscan specials.
Surprisingly, considering both location and reputation, this
venue keeps the prices sensible, with dishes well within reach
of even shallow pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (19-55z).
PTAGBS
Boscaiola C-2, ul. Dobra 55/56 (entrance from ul.
Lipowa), tel. (+48) 22 828 14 34, www.boscaiola.pl.
First off, the address is misleading: the entrance is in fact
on the corner of ul. Dobra and Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie,
in the rear of the University Library, opposite the Copernicus
Science Centre. Contemporary in design it has no fixed
menu: simply turn up and see what the Milanese chef has
decided to come up with that day. Good selection of wines,
and works well as a simple bar too, perfect for an early eve-
ning livener. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (28-60z).
PTA6UGBSW
Chianti C-3, ul. Foksal 17, tel. (+48) 22 828 02 22,
www.kregliccy.pl. A few years ago this would have been
rated as one of the best Italians in town. Warsaws moved on,
Chianti hasnt. The foods not bad, but youll pay over the odds
for dishes that are cooked far better in numerous locales. On
the plus side the candle-lit vaulted interior is amongst the
most romantic in town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-69z).
PTA6EGBSW
Delizia B- 4, ul. Hoa 58/60 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 622 66 65, www.delizia.com.
pl. Warsaws continued alliance with Italian food shows no
sign of slowing, and the latest proof comes with Delizia, an
Italian-owned venue thats comfortably there with the best.
As youd expect when cooked by natives, the food is excel-
lent, with a classically Italian menu that captures the best
of a nation. The experience begins with a warm welcome,
and continues as staff emerge with beautifully presented
authentic dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38-
69z). PTAGBSW
Enoteka Polska B-1, ul. Duga 23/25, tel. (+48) 22
831 34 43, www.enotekapolska.pl. A rather divey Viet-
namese restaurant aside Duga has always been something
of a culinary desert, surprising considering its geography as
one of the principal roads leading to the old town. Enoteka
redresses the balance, with a quiet courtyard location and
an uncluttered design that hints at sophistication. Decoration
stops with wood fittings and vanilla walls, theres no need
to over-elaborate here, and the Italian/Mediterranean menu
has sparked glowing reviews from all whove visited. Better
still, the choice of wine makes this more than just a eatery,
rather a must-visit following a day of old town sightsee-
ing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (26-49z).
TAGBSW
Gar B-3, ul. Jasna 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 26 05, www.
restauracjagar.pl. Magda Gesslers Gar has reopened,
this time featuring a new Italian swagger and a menu
that hits the bullseye with choices like grilled squid with
lemon juice and olive oil. Filled with theatrical chefs and
pics of screen icons the new look Gar is confirmation of
Gesslers departure from mainstream Polish cooking, and
a welcome addition to an area now deluged with options.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (22-80z).
PTAUGBSW
60
RESTAURANTS
Nu Jazz Bistro C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
621 89 89, www.jazzbistro.pl. Slick, modern interiors
with soaring pillars and cavernous ceilings lend this place
fantastic acoustics, something youll notice the moment a live
act appears. Long established on what could be considered
Warsaws media street, the menu has been given a com-
pletely new look with Italian replacing the international mix of
old. And once again the food hits the mark with our Gnocchi
with pork both tasty and good value. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (22-65z). PTAUGBSW
Parmizzanos B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 50 96, www.marriott.com/
wawpl. Few places sound less beguiling than the windowless
room of a chain hotel. But behold, the Marriott is no run-of-the-
mill hotel, and as things stand Parmizzanos is one of the elite
Italian experiences in the city. The blue ribbon quality extends
to everything here, from chefs to ingredients. Even the servers
are in a league of their own, with charm aplenty and a memory
for return faces. We use the word fantastic with caution, but
thats exactly what this place is, and have no doubt about it.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (68-130z). PTAUGSW
Rusticoni A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48)
22 222 05 50, www.rusticoni.pl. Occupying a chunk of
the sunken courtyard level at the Zote Tarasy shopping
and leisure complex close to the main railway station. Light
and bright this open plan quick-stop has super lunch deals,
while the eye candy outside is every bit as tasty as the
desserts. Italian owned and that shows in the kitchen with
great food coming to you at very acceptable prices. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-49z). PTAUG
BSW
NEW
Trattoria Ti Amo A-3, ul. witokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)
22 620 79 97, www.tiamo.pl. A cosy Italian trattoria close
to the Intercontinental and Warsaw Financial Centre that
does a steady trade thanks to its handy location and a solid
menu. The Tagliatelle Frutti di Mare comes recommended
and has an interesting spicy edge to it, while the layout of
the interior makes this a good choice for clandestine chats
over lunch or sweet nothings over dinner. The addition of a
small, fenced off terrace allows you to relax and watch the
city of Warsaw hustle and bustle by.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(24-56z). PTAGBS
Venezia Ristorante F-4, ul. Marszakowska 10/16,
tel. (+48) 22 622 15 37, www.venezia.com.pl. When In
Your Pocket first landed in Warsaw this place was rated as
one of the best eats in town. Then it lost traction and was
overtaken by any number of new and better Italians. So along
comes Magda Gessler (of Polish Hells Kitchen fame) to lend
her name to another tired restaurant and turn it back into
a winner. Big and bold this place is enormous, centred on a
kitchen that manages to serve consistently good food. We
like the squid ink risotto, the veal in mushroom sauce and the
coconut ripieno. Packed on weekend evenings with groups of
office bods you might want to book in advance. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-55z). PTABSW
Zielona Oliwka A-3, ul. Twarda 42, tel. (+48) 880
77 78 98, www.greenolive.pl. Pizza, pasta and great
cannelloni (the ricotta and spinach are the tastiest we have
tried so far). A really nice little place - all neat and tidy, with
daily specials chalked up on a blackboard - of the type often
overlooked for not being flashy enough, we recommend it.
Just try and bag seats by the window to get the best out of
it. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (20-40z).
PTAVGBSW
In a city that does not want for tragic, heroic stories,
that of Janusz Korczak and the orphanage of which he
became director in 1912 is one of those that warrants
telling time and again. Warsaw-born Korczak - whose real
name was Henryk Goldszmit - was a pioneering Polish-
Jewish childrens author, paediatrician and pedagogue
of some renown, whose approach to raising orphans
(he believed in offering children as much freedom and
autonomy to express themselves as possible) was at
odds with the prevailing attitude towards children in
general at the time. The orphanage (which still stands
today, at ul. Krochmalna 92 (A-3), and which remains a
childrens home) was specifically designed (by Korczak
himsel f) to offer the children who would live there as
comfortable an existence as possible. Korczak ran the
orphanage as a model of democracy, the orphans having
their own parliament and even their own newspaper, and
were consulted on all major decisions.
Having served as a military doctor in World War I, Korczak
volunteered for the Polish army again at the outbreak of
World War II, but was rejected due to his age. When the
occupying Nazis created the Warsaw Ghetto in 1940,
he was forced to move his orphanage to a much smaller
building at ul. Chlodna 33, and later still to ul. Sienna
16. A poignant sculpture of Korczak leading his children
(one small child clings on his back) stands close by, at
ul. Jaktorowska 6 (D-3).
At this stage, it is likely that anyone with the most rudi-
mentary knowledge of Polish history can probably guess
the rest. On August 5, 1942, the Nazis came to round-up
the 192 orphans in Korczaks care at the time, to take
them to Treblinka. For reasons that remain unknown,
Korczak himself was offered an amnesty by the Nazis,
and passage to the Polish side of the Ghetto walls. He
refused, insisting that he go with the children. Eyewitness
Joshua Perle described the scene:
A miracle occurred. Two hundred children did not cry.
Two hundred pure souls, condemned to death, did not
weep. Not one of them ran away. None tried to hide.
Like stricken swallows they clung to their teacher and
mentor, to their father and brother, Janusz Korczak, so
that he might protect and preserve them. On all sides
the children were surrounded by Germans, Ukrai-
nians, and this time also Jewish policemen. They
whipped and fired shots at them. The very stones of
the street wept at the sight of the procession.
Though rumours ran through the Ghetto for months
afterwards that the children had been saved on route to
Treblinka, there is no evidence of this, and not one child
appears to have survived the war. Korczak himself died
in Treblinka in 1942.
Besides the monument on ul. Jaktorowska, there is a
bust of Korczak in front of his former orphanage at ul.
Krochmalna 92, and a cenotaph in Powzki Cemetery.
A further monument - of Korczak sheltering children,
sculpted by Boris Saktsier - can be found at the Yad
Vashem Holocaust History Museum in Jerusalem.
Composer Adam Silverman wrote an opera based on
the Korczak story, called simply Korczaks Orphans,
which premiered in New York in 2003. Korczaks own
most famous work is probably King Matt the First (Krl
Maciu Pierwszy), a childrens adventure story about
a young king that is a thinly-veiled representation of
historical events in Poland. You can usually find copies
in English in larger branches of Empik
The Korczak Orphanage
61
RESTAURANTS
10% discount with this guide
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restau-
rants such has been the explosion of them in recent years.
This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know
about but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in
every major mall these days.
77 Sushi A- 4, ul. elazna 41, tel. (+48) 22 890
18 11, www.sushi77.com. The number 77 mi ght
well refer to the number of sushi stops in town - in fact,
i t says a l ot about the ci ty that i ts now easi er to find
sushi than i t is a cabbage. Youre guaranteed the real
deal in Sushi 77, where imaginati ve sets - try the Cali -
fornia rolls, or even the hot sushi - come chopped and
sli ced insi de an attracti ve interior. Some outl ets of fer
l ocal deli very. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open 12:00-
22:30, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynw), Open 12:00-22:30 and ul.
Sawoja-Skadkowski ego 4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open
11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(29-49z). PTAGSW
Besuto C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 28 (pav. 2), tel. (+48) 22
828 00 20, www.besuto.pl. Hidden among the prefab
cabins and ramshackle pavilions on Nowy wiat 22 is
Besuto, a surprising addition to the lines of scabby student
bars and shops selling spanners. From the outside it looks
pretty unimpressive, cold green and black colour combos
doing little to draw the passer-by. The good news is the
sushi, very decent hot and cold cuts prepared in front of your
eyes and despatched on boats that circle the bar. Definitely
worth a visit, and with low prices attached to the results.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-53z).
PA6VGBSW
Bonsai E-2, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 620
88 22, www.sushibonsai.pl. A well-prepared and good
sel ecti on of sushi served by a poli te black-clad staf f
keeps this place busy particularly during the day when
the surrounding office crowd are meeting for lunch. The
sushi is good and there is also a choice of hot dishes
to choose from while you enjoy your Japanese cocktail
amidst the modern surroundings. Our eel sushi and plum
cocktai l made for a refreshi ng l unch snack whi l e the
sketches of Japanese women on the wall left a lot more
to the imagination than what we had just witnessed in
the nearby Museum of Eroti ca.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(28-54z). PTAUVGBSW
ChopstiX B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
wawpl. The Marriott enters the battleground which is the
Warsaw sushi market with Chopstix, a first-floor located bar
The best Italian restaurant in
the heart of Warsaw centre!
Warsaw, Zlote Tarasy, level -1 entrance from the outside - Phone: 22 222 0550 - Open from 11 am till 11 pm www.rusticoni.pl
aimed at the lunch on the run/meeting crowd. Well prepared
sets are their forte and hit them between 12:00 and 15:00
(Mon-Sat) to take advantage of their ni ftily priced lunch
sets in classy surroundings that will make you feel like one
of the citys movers and shakers. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Cl osed Sun. From Jul y open 08:00 - 23:00. (40-95z).
PTAUXSW
Izumi Sushi F- 4, ul. Mokotowska 17 (entrance
from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 22 825 79 50, www.
izumisushi.eu. Marking the final part of Pl. Zbawicielas
regeneration is this work of art, where decorations are
limi ted to sl eek metals and black woods and flavours
are fresh and full. Don t j ust li mi t yoursel f to the raw
fish standards; also on the menu find substantials like
duck with mango salsa. Also on ul. Biay Kamie 4 (E-5),
Open 12:00-23:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z).
PTAUGBS
62
RESTAURANTS
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our
advice when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet
decorated place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask
for the noodle menu. Never before in this city have we
eaten such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles as we
have at Kiku. At around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles
here - and the seafood ones are best - represents terrific
value. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (25-60z).
PTAUGBSW
Molala A- 3, ul. Chodna 48, tel. (+48) 22 251 91
51, www.molala.pl. Sushi, damned sushi, but even
the most jaded Warsaw sushi freaks (a group of peopl e
whi ch includes us) will find this place worthy of his or
her time: we di d. The place l ooks a million dollars, all
mod cons, neat lines and expensi ve accessori es, and
the staf f are both fri endl y and knowl edgeabl e (we are
tempted to have them stuf fed). And the hardware i tsel f?
Excellent; faul tless even, though prices are hardl y cheap.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (7-188z).
PAVGBSW
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828
00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Warsaws last bastion resisting
sushi has been breached; Nowy Swiat has given in and put
out, with Oto staking a claim as the place for raw fish on
Warsaws primary high street. You have to ask if the city
can cope with so much Japanese choice, but the answer is
affirmative if they can all strive for the same level as Oto.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-80z).
PTAVGBSW
Sakana B-2, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. (+48) 22 826 59
58, www.sakana.pl. Warsaws best sushi, so some
say. The food floats by on small wooden boats while the
small interior is bri ghtened by bamboo bi ts and bobs,
hand-crafted pottery and kimono suited staff. Frequently
packed, so expect to eat shoul der to shoul der wi th
other sushi afficionados. Also on Burakowska 5/7 (D-1).
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-90z).
PTAVGBSW
Sushi Teatr B-3, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel. (+48) 22
826 47 87. Shock white colour schemes, soft lighting and
a designer atmosphere inside Warsaws most exclusive
sushi address. In return for a small fortune expect beautifully
presented dishes prepared by a team of master chefs. This is
essential dining. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30.
(25-100z). PTAGBS
Sushi Zushi C- 4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
420 33 73, www.sushizushi.pl. Even i n a ci ty now
exasperated wi th sushi this place is worth a mention. In
fact, say i t qui etl y, this was probabl y the sushi king of
09. Resembling an i tsy bamboo cave the blond coloured
Zushi is much more than j ust a stop of f for the wage
slaves squished into the offices above, rather a very real
contender as the best Jap in town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (36-65z).
PTA6VGBSW
Tomo Sushi C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22
434 23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you wont find
better sushi in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the
masses. Tomos reputation is well earned, and as such
dont be surprised to be knocking elbows with sushi snobs
showing off deft chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95z).
PTA6UGSW
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue on our website now has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Legends British Bar & Restaurant comments
Good place with excellent food. Steak pie and chicken
pie are both very good. Decent selection of beers. Very
clean and pleasant to spend a few hours eating and
watching the game. Highly recommended.
15 May, 2011- John Stele
Sense comments
In its day Sense was the gem of an eating and drinking
establishments in Warsaw. Today Sense finds itself in
need of an urgent revamp refit as it struggles to cope
with the competition of 1001+ eating and drinking es-
tablishments in Warsaw.
30 April, 2011 - Steve - Southport
Highly recommended your joking In Your Pocket! The
food is well below par these days and the busy bus stop
directly outside the place doesnt do it any favours.
7 February, 2011 - Cormac - Dublin
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW)
comments
Very much enjoyed the museum but the service in the
Qchnia Artystyczna was the worst we experienced over a
three week visit to Poland. Our waiter was running around
from table to table but typically carrying only 1 item while
3 other restaurant staff stood guard by the door platters
in hand ready to clear tables that were slow to be served.
We left without getting our food.
28 April, 2011 - Laura - Chicago
Jan Karski comments
I have read this book twice and recommended it to others
who have gone on to recommend it to others who lecture
at the University of Dundee. The Polish people as a nation
have tenacity bravery ingenuity and national pride that
surpass any other nation who have been subjected to the
same brutality and centuries of invasion with the most
recent being Germany and the USSR. The Holocaust
which forms the main focus of the book affected me
deeply and I will continue to recommend it to my students
and colleagues at the University of Dundee
25 May 2011 - Kathleen Muirhead- Dundee
Have Your Say
63
RESTAURANTS
innovative
and contemporary
japanese restaurant
Warszawa,
Nowy wiat 46
(22) 828 00 88
www.oto-sushi.pl
delivery 12.00-23.00
lunch mon.-fr. 12.00-16.00
C D L N L > 6 I ) +
.00-23.00
-fr. 12.00-16.00
Zen Jazz Bistro B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22 447
25 00, www.jazzbistro.pl. A modern menu featuring (yes...)
sushi, wok dishes and other Asian fused style offerings
whose number includes a smashing oriental style duck.
All this inside an interior thats always busy, but as the title
alludes, is thoughtfully chilled in atmosphere. White brick
walls and soothing chocolate colours lend a distinctively
cosmopolitan vibe thats not lost on an equally cosmopolitan
crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (24-
98z). PTAUGBSW
Jewish
Tel-Aviv Cafe + Deli B-4, ul. Poznaska 11, tel. (+48)
22 621 11 28, www.tel-aviv.pl. Jewish cuisine in Warsaw
gets a bad rap - think singing waiters and old town rip-offs. So
Tel Aviv is a refreshing change, a cool caf/deli which doesnt
play to the standard caricature. On the contrary, find a hip
venue that draws everything from intrigued backpackers
to remnants of the local Jewish community. Weirdness like
Sabbath chillout sessions add to the random, eclectic nature
of this place, and its rounded out nicely by Israeli drinks and
nibbles that include fresh hummus. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,
Fri 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
TA6EGBSW
Lebanese
Le Cedre G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 61, tel. (+48) 22 670
11 66, www.lecedre.pl. In the Praga part of town, La Cedre
have been offering the exotic for over a decade - a time when
anything not featuring turnips was seen as truly revolutionary.
This place has long had a reputation for excellence, and the
good news is that still holds true. In fact, a recent reconnais-
sance proves it better than ever, especially when you arrive
group handed; push the tables together, cover them with
bottles and starters, and let battle begin. A fragrant Arabian
Nights prevails, with lots of satin cushions and mysterious
curtains scattered at intervals; as for the food, the grilled
meat is brilliant, but for us its tabbouleh salad all the way. A
Warsaw classic, no doubt. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59z).
PTAVGBSW
Mediterranean
La Cantina C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 331
67 98, www.lacantina.pl. La Cantina looks good and
doesnt taste so bad either, with above par pizzas sliding
from a traditional Italian style wood-fired oven. The Marengo,
something lil Napoleon ate before steaming into the Austri-
ans at the battle of the same name, has been taken off the
menu, so go off road instead and try the Spiedini di Pollo,
a tasty grilled chicken fillet stuffed with Parma ham. Opinion
on LC appears divided, but we can vouch for a decent feed
whenever weve been. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (27-95z).
PTAUEBXSW
Mongolian
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska
27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.
pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food stations, pile
ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian
chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. Theres
plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions of East Asian
cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with not a slither of
fat to be seen. Perhaps thats why its rare to spot a Polish
diner. Forty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which sounds
a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 -
23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (29-65z). PTAGBSW
64
RESTAURANTS
Bazyliszek B-3, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. (+48)
22 831 18 41, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Ostentatious
venue serving up breathtaking views of Old Town square
and average meals. Theres also an abundance of traditional
game and meat dishes to choose from. QOpen 11:00 -
24:00. (8-49z). TJA6GBS
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48)
22 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. For a piece of
classic Warsaw head to Belvedere, a blue ribbon venue
which never disappoints. The setting inside an orangery in
azienki Park is hard to beat, and thats especially true in
summer when groups of peacocks saunter past exhibiting
their plumage. Immaculate table arrangements rub next
to plantli fe, while soft music tinkles in the background. Its
quite an experience, and the menu is in a di fferent league
as well. Both Polish and international choices feature,
and the beef tenderloin is every bit the glory it sounds.
Youre expected to pay heavily for the privilege, but its
most certainly worth it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (49-89z).
PTAEGBSW
Bistro Pita wiartka B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel.
(+48) 22 355 56 85, www.kregliccy.pl/piataCwi-
artka.php. Adding a touch of class to the Old Town dining
experience is Pita wiartka, a sublime looking hall with
vaul ted bri ck ceili ngs and arched glass wi ndows. The
castle location just screams tourist trap, and while it cant
be doubted theyre chasing the museum crowd, it must be
said that tourist food has never tasted this good before.
Opt for dishes like foie gras or cal f in fig and brandy sauce,
but beware of the opening times - themselves structured
around the castle hours. QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. (25-45z).
PTAUGBSW
The unique atmosphere, cosy decor and wonderful
smell of delicious Polish dishes are unforgettable.
Pl.Konstytucji 1, Warsaw
(entrance from Waryskiego St)
tel. +48 22 339 17 17, warszawa.konstytucji1@chlopskiejadlo.com.pl
Polish
There are basi cal l y three ways you can experi ence
the Pol i sh di ni ng experi ence. The cheapest i s at
one of the surpri si ngl y l arge number of survi vi ng
communi st era Mi l k Bars, whi ch you can read about
el sewhere. Then there are the chai ns of country
cottage styl e pl aces whi ch turn out Pol i sh stapl es of
rye soup, stuf fed dumpl i ngs and heaps of meat and
veg i n gut-busti ng porti ons. The thi rd form i s sti l l a
rel ati vel y new one and i nvol ves a growi ng number of
young, worl d-cl ass chefs usi ng thei r tal ents to bri ng
Pol i sh cui si ne i nto the 21st century. We can happi l y
recommend al l three forms dependi ng on the occa-
si on. Take a l ook at the pl aces l i sted here to gi ve you
an i dea of whi ch i s whi ch.
Amber Room G- 4, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48)
22 523 66 64, www.kprb.pl. Set i nsi de the Sobaski
Pal ace what was (and i ndeed sti l l i s) the domai n of the
Pol i sh Busi ness Round Tabl e Cl ub has now opened i ts
doors to the payi ng publ i c. From the outsi de i t l ooks
the sor t of pl ace youd see Pri nce Charl es wal ki ng
around shaking hands, though insi de, and in spi te of the
marbl e and chandel i ers, i ts a wel l desi gned area wi th
more than a nod to moderni st touches.The seasonal
menu i ncl udes such must-haves as fi l l et of beef wi th
broccol i pure, asparagus, morel mushrooms and red
wi ne j us or wi l d Bal ti c sal mon wi th basi l gnocchi, baby
cabbage and tomato foam. Has Pol i sh cui si ne ever
sounded so exci ti ng? Of course, such pl easures aren t
cheap, but then nei ther are they i n the astronomi c
zone youd be l i kel y to presume. Q Open 12:00-15:00,
18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30, Sun Cl osed. (49-119z).
PTAGBSW
65
RESTAURANTS
Caf Zamek B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 635
69 72, www.cafe-zamek.pl. Cl assy. Fi nel y-dressed
staff meet and greet you as you make your way to what is
always a grand, banquet-esque table, usually underneath a
reproduction of a famous Polish painting. Indeed, the decor
is worthy of a look even if you do not stop to eat. Not that
you should forego the nosh, including a terrific onion soup
and a fine, moist duck. The separate cafe serves some
exceedingly good cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40-65z).
PTJAUGBS
Ceprownia B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 7, tel.
(+48) 22 828 28 84, www.ceprownia.pl. Zakopane ar-
rives to your doorstep in this thumb-sized mountain themed
karczma. This is log-cutters heaven, with so much timber
incorporated in the design that it comes as a surprise that
theres any trees left in Poland. Diners, many of them the
product of the university opposite, pack onto benches to
sample sizzling treats that leave absolutely no gap for sec-
onds. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (12-39z). A6UGBSW
Chopskie Jado F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance
from ul. Waryskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. Another nationwide chain enterprise,
this one with jars of pickles and strings of hams decorating
a charmingly primitive interior filled with wooden chests and
rusty saws. The menu is meat and potatoes farmers fare
with portions coming in giant servings; this is a carnival of
calories that may leave some guests needing to be rolled
home in a wheelbarrow. Start with local soups dished up
inside a loaf of bread before loosening the belt and work-
ing through homemade dumplings and shanks of meat: all
served by staff who look like theyve just finished milking
cows. A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(15-60z). PTA6UGBS
Dekanta F-4, ul. Marszakowska 55/73, tel. (+48) 22
622 45 94, www.dekanta.pl. The uncluttered interior has
shades of the Austro-Hapsburg era with its vaulted ceilings,
arched windows and staff dressed as promiscuous looking
maidens. Flagstone flooring and a bar with wooden casks
mounted behind it complete your immersion into the days
of Franz Jozef, and the menu is a collection of generous
meaty meals like beef sirloin and roasted goose in marjoram
served on a cranberry sauce. Once youve cast the napkin
aside head upstairs for wine and views of Marszakowska.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (29-59z).
PTAGBSW
Delicja Polska F-2, Krakowskie Przedmiecie 45, tel.
(+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl. One of the
top eats around, set to a swish country manor background
of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy roast goose with red
cabbage and Silesian dumplings while aproned staff cater to
your whim and fancy in what is set to be one of the premier
dining experiences on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(26-69z). PTAVGBSW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaws
millionaires row you can expect Rolls Royce service from
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it
should be, in other words. We went for the urek followed by
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,
and couldnt fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (29-98z).
PTARGBS
An exceptional restaurant
with an unique interior...
Belvedere Restaurant
ul. Agrykoli 1
Free car-park from Parkowa street
tel.: +48 22 55 86 700, +48 606 102 002
restauracja@belvedere.com.pl
www.belvedere.com.pl
66
RESTAURANTS
Dyspensa G-4, ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. (+48) 22 629
99 89, www.dyspensa.pl. Towards the southern end of
Mokotowska, this is a fairly good Polish restaurant serving
all your usual favourites from simple pierogi to a rather
splendid roasted duck. They even offer stewed beetroot as
a side dish: a rare treat for lovers of this underrated veg-
etable. Try and grab one of the tables by the window to get
the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (54-81z).
PTA6GSW
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48) 22
890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising
on the outsi de, Fol k Gospoda unravel s on entry as a
gl orious sli ce of tradi tional Poland. I ts insi de a rugged
interior of stout furnishings and cerami c pots youll find
boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying
plates of forti fying Polish food. Indeed, the Polish hi gh-
lands meet the ci ty insi de Gospoda, and thats never
more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and hol -
l er over the sound of busy diners. I f youre lucky enough
to have a fri end, then order the meat platter for two, a
death by eating af fair that will have your shirt buttons
pinging of f in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (19-59z).
PTAUEGBSW
Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie B-2, ul. Wski Dunaj
4/6/8, tel. (+48) 22 887 65 20, www.gospodakwi-
atypolskie.pl. Within a heartbeat of the Rynek Gospoda
Kwiaty Polskie serves up cracking Polish country cooking
inside an interior that blossoms with folk art and ceramics.
Primary school paintings of happy sunflowers adorn every
available space and diners seem happy to sacri fice the
formality of nearby restaurants in return for big portions of
bargain Polski classics. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-69z).
PTAUGS
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Paska 85,
tel. (+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl.
Named after one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes
its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly
designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear
nod to Stanislaw Moniuszkos popular script. Dripping
with elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Pol-
ish food at i ts best. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (16-58z).
PTAUGBSW
Honoratka B-2, ul. Miodowa 14 (entrance from ul.
Podwale 11), tel. (+48) 22 635 03 97, www.honoratka.
com.pl. Chopin is a big name in this city, so why not follow
the trail and head to his former hangout. Honoratka has been
operating as a restaurant since 1826, and youll find several
bits and pieces celebrating their most famous guest, as well
as the usual medley of hunters trophies stretched out across
the five vaulted cellars. If the weather is good make use of the
garden, an inner city oasis that isnt too different from dining
in a forest. Furthermore the menu is no slouch either, and
reads like something youd find at a Shakespearean banquet;
order mugs of mead alongside dishes like venison and boar.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-45z). PTABXS
Karmnik B-2, ul. Piwna 4a, tel. (+48) 22 468 06 64. Not
exactly inspiring from afar, on closer inspection (in that you
should go inside before deciding whether or not to eat here)
this is a tidy little eaterie in Old Town that does the simple
things well and keeps punters happy with fine service, big
portions and a bill a little smaller than almost all the other
places in this over-priced area. Among the decent dishes on
offer youll find peppered bacon with cranberry and mashed
potato.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. (6-
30z). PA6GSW
ul. Mokotowska 39, Warszawa
Reservations: +48 22 629 99 89
www.dyspensa.pl
restauracja.dyspensa@gmail.com
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a
rare insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by
the state, this was food for the masses back in the day.
With the fall of communism many bar mleczny found
themselves forced out of business although a few of
these canteens have survived and, aside from offering
an interesting diversion for amateur anthropologists,
they make it possible to eat lots in return for a handful
of coins. A Polish friend will know which are the best
and it is still interesting to see many younger Poles still
making regular visits to their favourite one. Value is value
wherever you are. Queue up at the counter, peruse the
choice of soups, meat and veg on offer before placing
your order, then watch in awe as matronly ladies serve
up everything from budget excellence to bowls of slime.
Weve seen both ends of the scale being reached in the
same place. One tip is to go earlier as the choice and
quality in some tends to fall as the day progresses. In
Warsaw keep an eye out for ones we list here.
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (10-30z). YA6GS
W Komitecie C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel. (+48)
22 583 81 11, www.wkomitecie.pl. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (10-39z). PTA6UEGBS
Milk Bars
67
RESTAURANTS
Klimaty Kulinarne Czyli Chilli C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok.
105, tel. (+48) 22 211 34 84, www.klimatykulinarne.pl.
Canteen? Bistro? Who cares. Squirreled down a side street,
with dishes chalked up on the blackboard, this little gem deals in
tasty pancakes, salads, snacks and even the occasional main,
all complimented by a warming interior dotted with wine bottles
and ceramics. Theres a real home cooking aspect at work here,
and the results are plenty to shout about. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-44z). PTAUGBSW
Kresowa Hawira B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22
828 10 60, www.kresowahawira.pl. Beautifully decorated
with floral tablecloths and cottage accoutrements Kresowa
looks set to shine at a time when Warsaws enters its annual
gloom. Consisting of traditional recipes from Polands eastern
borderlands the menu here is dynamite, and includes roast
duck with apple and cranberry and an interestingly named
Sword of mixed meats a dish comprising beef, mutton,
chicken and rice. And, added to the rep is a little wooden
cabin called Wyszynk which serves shots and Polish snacks
at very acceptable prices and allows smoking to complete
that traditional Polish experience. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (19-90z). PTAEBSW
Kresowiak Al. Wilanowska 43c (Wilanw), tel. (+48)
22 642 42 44, www.kresowiak.com.pl. Set down in the
Wilanow district a couple of kilometres up from the Wilanow
Palace along Al. Wilanowska, Kresowiak presents traditional
dishes from the eastern border region of Poland. These lands,
which in Polish are referred to as the Kresowa, are now often
within the borders of Polands neighbours Ukraine, Belarus and
Lithuania but have strong connections with Poland because of
the geography of the country in previous centuries. The cuisine
of that region is a particular mix of the different traditions and
the locally farmed produce so expect hearty, home-cooked
dishes that might remind you of a time before words like addi-
tives and preservatives were part of the everyday lexicon. The
restaurant itself has lots of character, the service is elegant
and professional and the dishes are beautifully presented
making the whole experience rather pleasing. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (25-53z). PTAUBXSW
Literatka B-2, ul.Krakowskie Przedmiecie 87/89 (sec-
ond entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827 30 54,
www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow of Zygmunts
column on the Warsaws poshest street, Literacka is a traditional
Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of
Polski and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make
an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak
before finishing with what the menu describes as apples in a bath-
robe with strawberry mousse. Its not bad at all and a suitable way
to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70z). PTA6EBXSW
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red
Hog) E-2, ul. elazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.
czerwonywieprz.pl. The story heres a good un. In 2006 work-
ers uncovered a secret underground eatery frequented by all the
communist bad boys youd ever think of; Mao, Lenin, Castro and
Brezhnev to name a few. Unearthed were a stack of medals,
manuscripts, menus and uniforms. This being capitalist Poland a
plan was hatched to make a mint from resurrecting the restaurant
and opening it to all. Thats the story anyhow. Its actually claptrap,
designed to fool tourists and the occasional half-witted magazine.
Still, this place forms an intrinsic part of any commie inspired tour
you may be doing of Warsaw, and a jolly good place to dine on
Tito Boar, PRL-owski Smalec Luksusowy (The Peoples Republic
Luxury Lard) and Fidels Cigars. In the background lots of sashes,
portraits and pretty young girls dressed for a May Day parade.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (39-78z). PTAUGBSW
Genuine
Polish Cuisine
Wide choice of wine
and beer
Warsaw, 55/73 Marszakowska St., phone +48 22 622 45 94, dekanta@dekanta.pl, www.dekanta.pl
#BORVFUTr1BSUJFTr$BUFSJOHr$POGFSFODFT
68
RESTAURANTS
Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej C-2, ul. Bednarska
28/30, tel. (+48) 22 828 03 92, www.pierogarniana-
bednarskiej.pl. Hidden down ul. Bednarska this modest
spot is a budget treasure. Subsidized by a nearby monastery
they specialize in homemade pierogi filled with cheese, as
well as more maverick fruit fillings. QOpen 12:00 - 19:30.
(13-22z). TGS
Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 30, tel. (+48) 604 17
90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. I f too many more top notch,
great value places like this open in Old Town, the area is
in serious danger of losing its tourist trap moniker. This
divine little pierogi stop keeps it simple, keeps it cheap and
does so in a gorgeous setting. The tables all get individual
lamps, and i f you can bag one by the window at lunchtime
then you should settle in for a very long afternoon. Also
on F-4, Pl. Konstytucji QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-37z).
TAGBS
Platter by Karol Okrasa A- 4, ul. Emili Plater 49,
tel. (+48) 22 328 87 34, www.platter.pl. Karol Okrasa
is one of Polish cookings leading lights and Platter is his
new proj ect. Compl etel y ori gi nal menus change often
(the next change will be in July) as Okrasa demonstrates
that there is so much more to Polish food than starch and
stodge. We feasted early in spring and were rewarded with
ravioli with goat cheese and dried tomato sauce and tiger
shrimps in tomato cream and red lentils. The tastes were
superb and although you are paying towards the top end
of Polish restaurant prices here, you are getting to enjoy
one of Polands top young chefs at the price of a London
steak house. Relaxed, friendly staff who know how to make
you feel welcome only add to the experience. Highly recom-
mended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00.
(81-165z). PTAUGW
Podwale 5 B-2, ul. Podwale 5, tel. (+48) 22 828 77
00, www.podwale5.pl. Possibly the cheapest lunch in Old
Town, and with beer at 5.50zl a pop, its possibly the cheap-
est beer too. Soups, urek, pierogi and students can all be
found here, alongside business types, tourists and locals: it
really is the kind of place where everyone feels at home and
where sharing tables is part of the fun. Poseurs need not
apply. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (18-25z). PAUGSW
Pol ka, Magda Gessl er po prostu B- 2, ul .
witojaska 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.res-
tauracjapolka.pl. No other restaurateur dominates the
Warsaw scene like Magda Gessler, and Polka is one of her
latest offerings to Warsaws growing band of gastronauts.
Like her other ventures Polka has a fairytale design that
makes use of floral prints and country clutter, and the inte-
riors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou chambers. But its
with good food that the name Gessler is most commonly
associated with, and here theres plenty of that to choose
from. Find your usual assortment of Polish delicacies, made
using the finest locally sourced produce. In added boon the
prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-65z). PTAGS
Przy Zamku B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 15/19, tel. (+48) 22
831 02 59, www.placzamkowy.pl. An Old Town address
does not immediately make a venue a tourist trap, and
though at first glance you could be forgiven for thinking this
was just that, Przy Zamku merits closer inspection. For a
start they have a decent selection of vegetarian dishes,
they serve a cracking roast duck with apples, and the
prices are a bit steep but no more so than other - lesser -
restaurants in the area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30-120z).
PTJA6UGBSW
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the follow-
ing to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especiall y an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its sal t should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You onl y need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Polands two signature
soups; urek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dump-
lings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: Youll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by defaul t.
Gobki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Polands King Kazimierz fed his army gobki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikel y victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiebasa: Sausages, and in Poland youll find several variet-
ies made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for includ-
ing Krakowska, a Krakw specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiebasa was also the nickname of one of Polands
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionall y filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionall y
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
wi th lashings of sour cream. Again, all your tradi tional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour mel ted cheese on it and then cover it
wi th mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutel y plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pigs blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of ducks blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Polish Food
ul. Paska 85, Warsaw
tel. 22 652 81 02, mob. 509 593 305
www.restauracjahalka.pl, biuro@restauracjahalka.pl
The real taste of Poland
70
RESTAURANTS
Radio Caf B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22 625
27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains to enter a
legend, a venue with shady connections to the underground
broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting to this past are
photos, cuttings and sketches, as well as an ageing clientele
all too familiar with the bad old days. You wouldnt define this
venue as progressive, yet its an immensely enjoyable way to
glimpse pre-sushi Warsaw and enjoy lively chat in an almost
historic atmosphere. The foods good as well, with central
European standards that do far more than just keep the
cold at bay. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-48z). TAGBS
Restauracja Polska Przy Trakcie F-2, ul. Krlewska
2, tel. (+48) 22 827 01 98, www.restauracjapolska.pl.
Another feather in the cap of the revitalized theatre quarter.
The interior is an attractive blend of lampshades, flowers
and framed pictures, and the cooking is up-to-scratch, fea-
turing high end offerings like duck, as well as a cheesecake
apparently made to the recipe of an unnamed grandmother.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-70z). PTA6UGBS
Restauracja Rana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. (+48)
22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. A two
floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery.
Very pretty, but youll soon learn they attract return custom
on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might
look high end but the prices are certainly not, and youll find
Rana recognized across the city as one of the best dinner
deals around. The veal liver with onions and cherry sauce
is divine. Plenty claim to open till the last customer but only
these guys are the real deal - if theres people dining then the
kitchen will stay open, and that doesnt matter if its midnight
or daybreak. Give a quick call ahead to check. Q (36-62z).
PTAEBXSW
Restauracja Sowiaska B-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 79, tel. (+48) 22 826 85 02, www.res-
tauracjaslowianska.pl. This is another Polish restaurant
in a great Old Town location. Nothing particularly special
but good, if slightly overpriced, Polish dishes, most of them
promised to be delivered straight from the oven, which is
encouraging. Like most of the traditional Polish places in the
area, the mains are huge and staff very convincing, so you
can be cajoled into ordering more than a kilo of potatoes at
a time. Test yourself for Polish heritage by trying the Smalec.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (20-75z). PTABXSW
Stary Dom G-6, ul. Puawska 104/106, tel. (+48) 22
646 42 08, www.starydom.info. Not by any stretch of the
imagination centrally located, but well worth the trip south for
a rollicking, rustic, big-portioned, slap-happy Polish experi-
ence. Usually crowded with happy diners you will see why
quickly: they get a lot right where others too often fail. Service,
for example, is good, prices fair (its not central Warsaw, so
they sensibly do not charge central Warsaw prices) and the
food is well above average, occasionally inspired. Nobody
leaves unhappy. On a point of trivia it is part-owned by the
man who played Pope John Paul II in the incredibly successful
Polish cinematic version of his life. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-59z). PTABXSW
Strauss Restaurant B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Po-
lonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34, www.
strauss.pl. A classy restaurant serving Polish/Austrian
cuisine inside the elegant confines of the Polonia Palace.
Check their Friday and Saturday night deal where 95z buys
a Polish buffet accompanied by live music. Q Open 06:30-
10:00, 11:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat, Sun 06:30-10:30,
18:00-22:30. (34-99z). PTAUEGW
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 79
Warszawa
Tel. 22 826 85 02
www.restauracjaslowianska.pl
info@restauracjaslowianska.pl
The best Polish cuisine
in Warsaw
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71
RESTAURANTS
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Ol d Town is packed
wi th standard places to eat, but has tradi tionall y been
something of a desert when i t comes to great places to
eat. Times are achanging. As you walk into the el egant
dining room you will discover a worl d of luxury, craft and
pri vil ege (oh yes, best save up before coming). Steak
tartare wi th quails eggs, sol e in l emon sauce and their
si gnature duck (cooked to per fecti on) are j ust a few
of the treats you can expect. And we have yet to men-
ti on the wi ne l i st. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40-120z).
PTAEGBSW
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48)
22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous
restaurant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itsel f;
Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are
a few of the names whove taken a seat here. The interior
is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, its
hard not to feel a part of history when dining here. The food
is the perfect indulgence with perfectly presented game
dishes. Your bill is a di fferent matter, and may present a
double Dutch situation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z).
PTJAGBS
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826
79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U
Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside
what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel.
Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and florid-
faced chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being
on the set of Ramseys Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no
nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game
dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(39-72z). TAEGBS
Valadier F-6, ul. owicka 37, tel. (+48) 22 224 54 54.
An impressive, renovated Mokotow villa plays host to one of
the most talked about restaurant openings of recent times.
Beautifully decorated, full of light and spread over 3 floors,
the staff delivers a fine balance between attentiveness
and discretion while you enjoy the fruits of the concise but
excellent modern Polish menu. Pawel Zoltanski, a man who
has developed his skills in the kitchens of France, Italy and
his own highly regarded restaurant in Czersk is the person
conducting the kitchen here and the results set before us
including pheasant consomm with game sausage, Guinea
fowl Lyonaisse style with pheasant and truffle mousse and
Rosti potato stuffed with mushroom won rapturous applause.
While prices are towards the top end of the Warsaw scale,
you are still under 20 euros for a main course although the
wine list starts higher. That said, the Crozes Hermitage
we drank was excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (48-75z)
PTABX
Villa Nuova ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 885 15 02, www.villanuova.com.pl. I f
theres a formal occasion to celebrate then make haste here,
where a quick tour of this 200 year old manor house has you
wishing you were born an aristocrat. Find crystal chandeliers,
Italian woodwork and a cherry tree piano spread around
this august venue, where faultless service treats you like
a celebrity from the moment you enter. Theres a labyrinth
of rooms and cellars to explore, with exquisite Polish game
dishes served on immaculately laid tables. QOpen 12:00 -
22:00. (38-64z). PTA6BXSW
72
RESTAURANTS
W Komitecie C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel. (+48)
22 583 81 11, www.wkomitecie.pl. A huge dining hall
in the basement of the former HQ of the Communist Party
can seat up to 500 on bright red upholstered chairs and
benches. Serving cheap and tasty Polish staples like breaded
fillets, pork tenderloin and cutlets in a canteen style, it really
is a highly recommended way to try out the Polish milk-bar
experience.If not for the food, at least visit for the socialist
showpiece interiors - stalk around the corridors of power
once reserved for the party bigwigs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(10-39z). PTA6UEGBS
Zapiecek C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, tel. (+48) 22 826
74 84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this
pierogi kitchen assumes the Grandmothers country cottage
look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots
of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously
light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine.
If you dont fancy a sit down then check their street-level take
away window for lunch-on-the-run. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (18-27z). PAGBS
Zgoda B-3, ul. Zgoda 4, tel. (+48) 22 827 99 34, www.
restauracjazgoda.pl. An old timer thats had a refit and a new
burst of life. Dishes like urek soup, shashlyk and pancakes
are chalked up on the blackboard and served from behind a
glass counter. Low prices, competent cooking and a casual
trattoria ambience (whitewashed walls, timber furnishings) are
rewarded by a constant stream of customers. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-49z). PTAGBSW
Portuguese
Portucale G-6, ul. Merliniego 2a, tel. (+48) 22 898
09 25, www.portucale.pl. Portuguese owned and run,
which explains why the few Portuguese natives we know
consider this place their emergency blanket. The journey - out
Mokotow way - is made worthwhile on account of a strong
menu split between delicious seafood choices and hunks of
meat. Now in new premises (next door to the old premises)
and with over 400 wines to choose from, their on-site shop
is just the spot if youre stocking up for a night in. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (35-69z). PTAUGSW
Russian
Babooshka C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if
youre a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer
and borscht. Russian cuisine isnt for the faint hearted, and
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of
vein clotting meats and veg in return for a matter of coins.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:30. (16-30z). PTYAUGSW
Seafood
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl.
Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featur-
ing fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and
some very good octopus. The modern interior includes
hardwood and porthole finishes, as well as aquariums from
which African fish look on in alarm as their colleagues meet
a sticky end in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 22:00. (69-285z). PTAGSW
Strefa Gourmet C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3, tel. (+48) 22
584 71 01, www.strefagourmet.pl. The interior, filled with
mirrors, glass and black finishes, will take the breath away,
and must surely stand out as one of the most extravagant
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73
RESTAURANTS
dcors to be found in Poland. Pop the big question here and
we guarantee the answer will be yes. On the menu premium
fish dishes that will leave you seriously impressed. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. (28-178z). PTAUVBXSW
Spanish
Tapa y Toro A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48)
22 222 01 20, www.tapaytoro.pl. A smart spot decorated
sparingly with wood finishes and cream flourishes. Situated on
the bottom bit of Zote Tarasy these guys never seem short
on overspill custom, though all the signs seem to suggest
theyd fare well wherever their location. Mars, even. Tapas are
excellent here, and its a great spot for some informal dining.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (18-70z). PTAUVGBSW
Tex-Mex
Blue Cactus ul. Zajczkowska 11 (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
22 851 23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. Warsaw would be a lot
poorer without the Blue Cactus, an old timer thats every bit as
good as it was on day one. Burritos and burgers are outstanding
here, and traditionally washed down with jugs of margaritas. Kids
are welcomed here, a negative to some a positive to others, and
the summer terrace is a Sunday fave. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat
09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (24-86z). TAGBSW
El Popo B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22 827 23
40, www.kregliccy.pl. Singing parrots and serenading
Spaniards; El Popo sure know how to add the dynamite to
dining. Having suffered something of an identity crisis not
long back El Popo have emerged stronger for the experience,
serving sizzling fajitas matched with sharp, spicy peppers.
Always busy, and for good reason too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(29-62z). PTA6UEGBSW
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42
18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero
shaped ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this
place has the lot, so who cares theres another restaurant in
Warsaw going under the same name. Service is great, flirty
even, while the menu gets gongs for featuring all the right
Mexican suspects. Theres a distinct lack of dynamite to the
salsa, but all in all this is a decent addition to Warsaws Mex
offerings, and a definite alternative to your more tried Nowy
Swiat venues. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.
(22-69z). PTA6UEGBS
La Fiesta Tortilla Restaurant C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel.
(+48) 22 829 85 60, www.lafiesta.pl. This is an unneces-
sary addition to Warsaws wealth of good Tex-Mex restaurants,
especially considering its proximity to Frida on Nowy Swiat.
Where the budget should have gone on getting a proper chef
it got blown on an extensive sombrero collection, and as a
result the food is Polish flavours with Polish ingredients. They
do, however, have an impressive tequila menu so its worth
going for a margarita or three, but we recommend you head
somewhere else for your tacos.Also on Al. Ujazdowskie 22
(G-3) QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (26-47z). PAGBSW
The Mexican C-3, ul. Foksal 10a, tel. (+48) 22 826
90 21, www.mexican.pl. Unclog your system and get
your guts gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue with
shocking burritos that come served under a slurry of cabbage
and florid sauce. What a shame - centered around an adobe
courtyard you wont find a finer looking Mexican restaurant
in town. If only they focused half as much attention on the
food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. (20-50z). TAEGBS
Restaurant, Tapa y Toro, in the Zote
Tarasy complex oers a wide selection
of traditional regional Spanish dishes.
Treat yourself to our authentic tapas,
sh, mariscos, meat, vegetables and
delicious desserts. Come and enjoy
the Spanish atmosphere...
www.tapaytoro.pl
Zote Tarasy level: -1, tel.+48 22 222 01 20
74
RESTAURANTS
everything would take a year of repeat visits, but were going
to do our best on that front.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-140z).
PTAUEGBSW
Maharaja Thai B-1, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. (+48)
22 635 25 01, www.maharaja.com.pl. The interior may
be disappointingly drab considering the location - inside a
medieval towerhouse - but the food most certainly isnt,
with a collection of fiery typically Thai dishes. We had the
red curry and our taste buds knew about it immediately.
Not gourmet dining, but a decent stop in an area of town not
known for culinary variety. QOpen 12:30 - 22:30. (26-48z).
TAVGBS
Suparom Thai Food G-4, ul. Marszakowska 45/49,
tel. (+48) 22 627 18 88, www.suparomthaifood.pl.
A recommended and long standing Thai option serving
fiery curries inside a two level restaurant. Eating in the pa-
goda style interior can be a real sensory pleasure, though
the zen calm is occasionally disrupted by clutzy service
and kitchen quarrels. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (28-57z).
PTAGSW
ToBaYa D-2, ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. (+48) 22 520 22
22, www.tobaya.pl. Pan-Asian offerings inside an office
building hiding by the backside of the Ibis Hotel. Its not easy
to find by any means, and neither does it look anything more
than your generic modern Asian restaurant that Warsaw has
found a fondness for. Luckily these issues are offset by the
kitchen which does a grand job on bringing to life Thai and
Japanese cuisines. The goreng dishes come recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-98z). PTAUVGSW
Turkish
Efes H-2, ul. Francuska 1, tel. (+48) 22 616 25 80.
Head to the suburb of the rich and powerful to track down
Polands premier kebab. Either join the queue at the takeaway
window, or practice patience inside as you wait for a table
to be vacated; there is no such thing as quiet hour here,
which speaks volumes for the quality you can expect. This
is the Warsaw kebab experience reinvented. Also at Al. Jana
Pawa II 41a, (A-2) and Al. Niepodlegoci 80, (F-6). QOpen
10:00 - 21:00. (10-22z). PTAUGBS
Lokanta B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48) 22 585
10 04, www.lokanta.pl. The new look Lokanta certainly
feels the part. Starting with a glitzy purple entrance these
guys have caught on with Polands new found love affair
with all thing orient, and part of their image makeover sees
the launch of Turkish style dance parties - a right hip-wiggle
fest if ever we saw. Nevertheless, the bread and butter of
Lokanta remains the food, and youll find the full ensemble
We serve truly the best
Turkish food in Poland
Al. Krakowska 240/242, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 609 15 48
Open everyday
10:00 - 23:00
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Recent
despatches claiming a decline in the firepower of the salsa
were wrong, something our editorial team discovered when
ordering the mango habanero; zap, pow and a burned tongue
later and we were ready to continue - it tastes like a fire bomb
and blows the doors off anything else found in Poland. Itd be
wrong to hail this place as anything other than the number
one Tex-Mex joint in the country, and a re-launched menu is
further proof these lads arent resting on the laurels. New
additions include stuffed peppers and the return of the
Mexican potato wedges, and this place gets even better at
weekends when it assumes the look of a frat party: lots of
medical students falling over each other as they go for that
final margarita. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-59z). PTAEBXSW
Thai
Dziki Ry B-4, ul. Wsplna 35, tel. (+48) 22 628 18
25, www.dzikiryz.pl. A decent choice of Thai, Korean,
Indian and Chinese dishes served up in a warm wood interior
and decorated with canvas lanterns, empty bird cages and
flamboyant plant life. You can now find Wild Rice at three
locations around the city. Also at ul. Puawska 24b (G-5) and
Pl. Inwalidw 10 (oliborz). QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. (24-52z).
PTA6UGS
Donka C-4, ul. Hoa 54, tel. (+48) 22 621 50 15.
A Thai/Chinese crossover that brings to mind the steamy
hole-in-the-wall eateries found in Chinatowns the world over.
Supremely cramped this is the kind of place where diners
knock elbows with each other while staff shout orders over
the permanent buzz. Pleasantly decorated with bamboo
shoots, rice paper lanterns and oriental scribbles Donka has
a neighbourhood feel with regulars welcomed like returning
family. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (14-
30z). P6GBS
Lemongrass C- 4, Al. Ujazdowskie 8, tel. (+48) 22
696 33 00, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. The first thing
youll notice about this place is its sheer size you could
sink a small ship in here and still have room for a carnival.
However the space has been cleverly split up, and by the
time word spreads its safe to assume there wont be too
many empty seats. The design is sleek and modern with
aquariums underneath the bar, the scent of lemongrass
throughout and the clever use of green and blue back-lit
glass to add to the mood. Heading the team in the kitchen is
Somabt Boonperm, a veteran one of Thailands 5-star Hilton
hotels, and he oversees a menu that brings you the best in
creative Asian cooking. Choose from a vast array of good-
ies, from red curry duck to Pad Thai with shrimp. To sample
75
RESTAURANTS
of traditional dishes making their way out of wood-fired
ovens and charcoal grills. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00
- 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (15-42z).
PTAUGBS
Maho Al. Krakowska 240/242 (Wochy), tel. (+48)
22 609 15 48, www.maho.com.pl. Well out in the sticks,
and probably beyond the investigative talents of all but the
established expat. But thats a great shame, because what
looks like a glorified kebab shop turns out to be so much
more. Set in a low-level modern building - the kind youd
see in a retail park - Maho touts a modern looking design of
dark, sleek woods, as well a menu that really gives a boost
to the flagging reputation of Turkish food; lets face it, the
kebab shops of Warsaw have done no favours to this noble
cuisine. To find such decent skewered meats is a rarity,
and Maho also sideline as an exotic delicatessen. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (22-42z). PTAUXSW
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48)
22 828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Heres a
restaurant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade
of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern
Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings
this isnt the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal,
choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv
was actually Polish Lww. The emphasis is firmly on the good
old days - before moustached dictators started dictating
Polands borders - and the design is a pleasing jumble of
craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly
perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as cheesecake
cooked to a secret grandparents recipe . QOpen 12:00 -
23:30. (29-45z). PTAEGBSW
Vegetarian
Biosfeera F- 6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22
898 01 55, www.biosfeera.blog.com. An ul tra-funky
i nteri or ful l of hangi ng canvas l amps, orange dashes
and shi ni ng wood fi ni shes generates the hi p atmo-
sphere normal l y l acki ng i n Pol i sh vegetari an haunts.
The Koza I tal i ana i s a fantasti c way to pri me yoursel f
for the meatl ess mai n courses that come wi th names
l i ke Szpi nakol ada and Tor ti l l a Kama Sutra. Freshl y
squeezed j ui ces and frui t cocktai l s come as refresh-
ment, and expect the thousand-yard stare i f you ask for
a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z).
TA6UGBSW
Green Bar & Catering B- 3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel.
(+48) 22 625 00 55. An oasi s of veggi e goodness i n
the meaty heart of thi s carni vorous ci ty, Green Cafe
keeps i t si mpl e - soup, qui ches, l i ght meal s and the
l i ke - but does so very wel l i ndeed, and keeps pri ces
l ow, ensuring i t a steady stream of customers - at lunch-
ti me especi al l y. Just about your onl y veggi e opti on thi s
cl ose to the ci ty centre, we say get here whi l e you can.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (11-15z).
PTAGBS
Greenway B-4, ul. Wsplna 54 A, tel. (+48) 603 95 35
25, www.greenway.pl. Packed at all hours. The dishes are
not inspirational, and frequently resemble plates of mashed
beetroot, but this canteen style affair offers healthy decent
fare at prices that cannot be faulted. A healthier more pleas-
ant step up from the milk bar experience, this is the new face
of Polish budget dining. Also on ul. Marszakowska 28 (D-4).
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16z).
PT6GBS
76
CAFS
Batida F-4, ul. Marszakowska 53, tel. (+48) 22 621
53 15, www.batida.com.pl. There are a few Batidas
around the city, but for the full Viennese coffee house
experience you need to get yoursel f to the flagship on
Marszakowska. A winter treat, grab a seat by the huge
windows in the elegant, high-ceiling dining room and feast
on a good, brief menu featuring - amongst other things -
excellent salads (the smoked salmon is a treat). The cake
selection is out of this world, and prices are not as high as
you might think. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
20:00. TAGSW
Belgian Chocolate Club B-4, ul. Chmielna 27/31,
tel. (+48) 22 826 70 80, www.chocolateclub.pl.
Chocolates, thousands of em. And coffee, tea and the like,
and all in a warm, inviting central location in which you end
up staying far longer - and consuming much more - than you
ever intended. Whats more, the happy, smiling girls behind
the counter do not appear to hate their customers. Always
a refreshing experience in Warsaw. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
PAGBSW
Blikle Caf C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back
in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and mar-
zipan cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august
venue, with a menu that includes a range of breakfasts,
lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have
you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
PTA6GBSW
Caf au Lait A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 19, tel. (+48) 22
256 01 61, www.cafeaulait.pl. Next to the Westin, which
knows a thing or two about coffee and cakes, Au Lait needs to
be good. Fortunately, it is. It is also about ten times cheaper
than its neighbour. A good range of sandwiches - some made
with fresh, tangy goats cheese - brings in lunchtime punters
while early evening sees the after work crowd take over. Very
nice indeed. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
PA6UGBSW
Caf Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
42/44 (Le Mridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
551 18 28, www.warsaw.lemeridien.com/warsaw.
Join the upper echelons of society in this premium priced
cafe. The chequered swing era decor wouldnt be out of
place i n The Great Gatsby, and comes compl ete wi th
pretty wai tresses ferryi ng cof fee and pastri es to ri ch
Americans. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
PTAGBSW
Cafe Colombia C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel. (+48) 512
30 72 84, www.cafecolombia.eu. A bright, colourful caf
with a location thats the envy of many. Theres ulterior rea-
sons to visit, and thats snacks and coffee Colombian-style,
as well as wine and beer to add a skip to your step. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. PAGSW
Cafe Gallery Belle Epoque B-1, ul. Freta 18,
tel. (+48) 22 635 41 05, www.staremiasto.com/
nowe- mi asto/f reta18/sal a- gorna. html . A com-
pl ete haven of cal m wi th a pl easi ngl y i ncoherent mi x
of gramophones, gl obes, l ampshades and anti ques.
Theres character i n abundance here, wi th the added
pl us of crackl y j azz cl assi cs pl ayi ng i n the background.
An essenti al i nterrupti on to your ol d town touri st du-
ti es. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
6EGBS
Caf Meryk B-4, ul. Chmielna 28a, tel. (+48) 22 826
19 75, www.cafemeryk.pl. An adorable cafe with a classic
look embellished by the presence of stripped wood floors,
black and white photos and even some vintage looking dolls
- scary. Set in a courtyard off the busy central pedestrian
thoroughfare of Chmielna, there is a tasty collection of light
dishes to choose from including very good salads, soups and
pierogi. Alternatively relax with a coffee and one of their tarts,
cakes or pastries and let the day drift by. QOpen 12:00 -
22:00. TAGBSW
Cafe Prna B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaws
intellectuals is Cafe Prozna, a cracking cafe set inside a
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. Youll be
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so
if theres a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-
war photographs Prna comes with a pile of well-thumbed
history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a base-
ment level to soak up any overflow of custom. The only
disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as
good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. P6GBSW
Caf Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22
828 01 15. This place is a great authentic French bakery
and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and
bread. This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny
shop space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk
being smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly,
but its worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back
less than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia).
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PAGBSW
Cava C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 30, tel. (+48) 22 826 64
27, www.cava.pl. One of those places that takes drinking
coffee to a new level. Sit back on comfy armchairs and take
in the bustle outside (the windows are floor to ceiling) while
enjoying the easy listening sounds. There are light meals
too: a good range of quiches and a banana cake the kids will
thank you for months afterwards. Also at (A-4, Zote Tarasy)
ul. Zota 59. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBSW
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, www.chlodna25.pl.
The unofficial home of Warsaw counter-culture, and some-
thing of a community centre for wacko art types; theyre all
here, from expat hacks typing up tomorrows copy, to drama
queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting
them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams
and the occasional dog going woof. Chairs of varying style
and condition, board games, beer-by-the-bottle and batty
artwork all add to the atmosphere, making C25 every bit
as appealing as it is curious. Dont miss it. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 -
24:00. P6EBSW
Coffeeheaven C- 4, ul. urawia 1a, tel. (+48) 22
622 51 75, www.coffeeheaven.pl. Polands definitive
coffee chain, and not unlike something youre used to
experiencing back home. Generic surroundings show little
imagination but the coffee, served in paper cups, is ideal
for your first thing in the morning caffeine fix. Made-on-
the-day sandwiches and smoothies are equally impressive
and Cof feeheaven have handy l ocations across town,
including the train station, a must-visit for anyone looking
to stock up before taking their chances on Polands rail
network. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
PAGBSW
77
CAFS
Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intel-
lectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted
coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of ten.
QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
TA6EGBSW
Costa Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 49, tel. (+48) 781
77 11 05, www.costacoffee.pl. Within the space of three
minutes Costa Coffee have invaded Poland and opened
in practically every major urban area - from Katowice to
Gdansk. Their Warsaw venture is precisely the same as
all others, with generic and sterile fittings offset by what
is good and reliable coffee. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Thu,
Fri 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
PAGBSW
Czuy Barbarzyca (The Tender Barbarian) C-2,
ul. Dobra 31, tel. (+48) 22 826 32 94, www.czuly.pl.
Our favourite venue in the vicinity of the Copernicus Science
Centre. Looking much like a bookstore from outside, venture
inside and you will see that it is indeed a bookshop, but one
which serves great coffee, tea and sandwiches and which
is a real favourite amongst students and Bohemian types,
many of whom appear to spend all day reading here. You will
want to do the same: it is that kind of place. Our gripe is that
it shuts too early. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTA6GSW
Hagen-Dazs C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 36, tel. (+48) 22
826 30 52, www.haagen-dazs.com. Considered by many
as the best brand of ice cream in the world, its fitting that
the Warsaw home of Hagen-Dazs should be on Nowy Swiat.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAGBSW
Jazz Bistro Espresso F-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48)
22 627 41 51, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open from the crack
of dawn and aimed at those who rush to work with computer
bags hoisted over their shoulders. Coffee on the run with
in-house baked croissants and baguettes inside the sleek
interiors one associates with the Jazz Bistro chain. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PTAUXSW
Kawiarnia Ogrody F-1, ul. Mariensztat 21a, tel.
(+48) 22 826 08 98, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Of
all the newbies this time round few deserve higher praise
than Kawiarnia Ogrody, a lovely caf overlooking the Stalin-
era pinkish commune of Mariensztat. Spaced round two
rooms this spot is all snow white colours, wobbly furniture
and weird music that has you double checking i f youve
smoked something naughty. Its a bit like Chodna 25, the
key di fference being the lack of prats with Macs, and while
they dont boast an alcohol license they make up for this
with hippy soups, fresh lemonade and thought-provoking
art. This place is as chilled as a night in the Arctic, and a
brilliant way to re-humanize yoursel f after a night on the
town. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. TA6EGBSW
Keks B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. (+48) 505 52
30 09, www.kawiarniakeks-staremiasto.ebiznes.fm/.
Keks is one of the most popular cakes in Poland (a bit like
an Old English fruitcake), and you can expect to find a very
good slice of the stuff waiting for you here. You should also
expect a top Old Town square location, but one which comes
without the usual premiums. No, no rip-off prices here, just
a gorgeous, eccentric little cafe of the old school, the kind of
place you want to hug and take home to your mother. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A6GBSW
ysy Pingwin (Bald Penguin) H-1, ul. Zbkowska
11, tel. (+48) 22 618 02 56, www.lysypingwin.pl. At
the heart of Pragas Boho renaissance stands the Bald
Penguin, a tatty bar/caf swarming with academics and
unsigned musicians. Run by a Swedish Buddhist this spot is
as wacky as you find with its collection of jumble sale lamps
and artistic happenings. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 02:00. P6GSW
Madame Walewska E-2, ul. Jana Pawa II 22 (Mer-
cure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
528 03 62. Named in honour of Napoleons Polish paramour,
this small hotel caf offers an outstanding range of desserts
and pastries. Vanilla mousse with pear, Black Forest gateau
and other delights served by coquettish waitresses, whats-
more, if you order in advance they promise to make any cake
you desire. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:30.
PTA6UGSW
Na Placu Cafe B-3, Pl. Grzybowski 2, tel. (+48) 796
20 06 66, www.naplacucafe.pl. In a city that has been
served up a whole container load of identikit coffee shops,
Na Placu is a pleasant alternative and a reminder of a time
when most Warsaw cafes looked like this. Basically a living
room with a big window overlooking Pl. Grzybowski, filled with
a bunch of mismatched chairs, sofas and tables, its a fine
place to stop by for a sit-down, cup of coffee and a delicious
homemade cake if youre on the tourist trail. Do take a mo-
ment to look at the nearby ul. Prozna if you havent already.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PA6GBSW
78
CAFS
Opasy Tom Piwu C-3, ul. Foksal 17, tel. (+48) 22 621
18 81, www.kregliccy.pl. Its odds on this will become your
favourite Warsaw bistro and wine bar in an instant. From out-
side it looks more like a bookshop, given the healthy numbers
of volumes on display (all of which you are free to pick up and
read). Serving bistro food, the menu changes almost daily so
food write-ups are pointless, except to say that whatever we
have eaten here as been good and well priced. Adventurous
foodies should go for one of the tasting menus: not cheap, they
are a culinary treat that can last for hours. The lunch menu is
a cut above most others in the city, and the extravagant wine
list appears to bring in as many punters as the food: especially
given that they serve everything by the glass. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW
Osir Cafe C-3, ul. Tamka 40, tel. (+48) 694 48 75 54,
www.osir-cafe.blogspot.com. Associate with tattooed
cycling enthusiasts in Osir, a weird caf where investment
stopped the moment a couple of bikes were attached to the
ceiling. Decorated with white bricks, half-collapsed lampshades
and the sort of battered plastic furniture youd find in a school
common room, this is not the place if you demand designer java
amid design store interiors. If, however, you want something with
a beaten atmosphere and a friendly welcome then you cant go
far wrong - arrive at night when Warsaws bicycling fraternity do
a good job of living up to their alternative rep. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. A6UEGBSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Wedel is
the countrys longest established chocolate manufacturer
and one of the best known brands in Poland today. Today
the tradition of Chocolate Lounges continues and this is a
real part of Warsaw tradition. This classy venue, featuring
comfortable seating under the watchful gaze of the genera-
tions of the Wedel family who built the company, is located in
what was once the factory and cafe of the Wedel business.
Youll still be able to taste the original chocolates creations
of its founders which were so popular that its founder Karol
Wedel had to introduce a factory seal carrying his signature
to combat the number of forged Wedel products that were
filling the market in the 1860s. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTAGBSW
SensNonsensu ul. Wileska 23 (Praga - Pnoc), tel.
(+48) 660 75 76 77, www.sensnonsensu.pl. A weird
name, vintage furnishings, leftfield music acts and people
with DIY haircuts. It almost goes without saying youll find
SensNonsensu in Praga, whats a little more surprising is the
storming choice of beer. Particular credit goes to ywe (not to
be confused with ywiec) and the Ukrainian Obolon Aksamitne.
The design, however much you like it, is exactly the same as
everywhere else in the vicinity - Singer sewing machines and
leaning lampshades. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PA6GW
Sklep z Kanapkami C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 20 41. A shabby-chic little bistro
on Krakowskie thats a great place to stop for a smoothie
and snack. It has a young and rather carefree feel, as do the
staff, who are sometimes too busy being young and carefree
amongst themselves to notice you. The food is healthy Polish
(if such a thing exists), and they do interesting takes on Polish
classics - the blueberry pierogi are great - and the coffee menu
is very tempting. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. A6GBSW
Sodki Sony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingl y ornate
interiors announce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler
venture, this one with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries
Not everyone has the pleasure of waking to a five star
breakfast, so its good news that there are early bird
eating options that go beyond foraging in bins. First off,
take a look at urawia - Caf 6/12 is a legend, and their
breakfasts cover all bases from bagels to pancakes to
something that isnt too dissimilar to a British breakfast.
Down the road and You & Me also attempt Brit
brekkie as well as numerous continental options. Not
bad, unlike your pl. Trzech Kryy options. Theres always
a crowd in Szpilka but go beyond a croissant and youll
be wishing you hadnt got out of bed. Subway have a
bunch of locations around the city and you could do a lot
worse for something on the run. Speaking of fast food,
the ubiquitous McBreakfast is on sale from very early
at the easiest location to get to, that being the one in the
underground part of Warszawa Centralna railway station.
Irish breakfast is available from in Bradleys though for
a true power breakfast head to 99.
99 A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel. (+48) 22 620 19
99, www.restaurant99.com. Four types of breakfast
on offer served from Monday to Friday - from simple
French (pancakes, croissants and cakes, 17z) to the
full works: scrambled eggs with bacon, beans, sausages
and bread (24z). Q Breakfast served Mon - Fri, 08:00 -
11:00. PTA6UBXSW
Amadera A-4, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505
91 86, www.amadera.pl. An all-you-can eat buffet for
45z served 7 days a week. Q Breakfast served 07:00-
10:30, Sat, Sun 08:00-10:30. PTA6UBX
SW
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
622 53 33, www.612.pl. Around 40 breakfast options,
including pancakes, bagels, sandwiches and ciabattas
as well as a not bad attempt at English breakfast which
is priced at 29z (eggs, home-made sausages, cocktail
tomatoes, bread). Found close to the centre, the outdoor
terrace on Warsaws main media agency street, is a great
place to sit in warmer months. Q Breakfast served from
08:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. PTA6GBSW
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.
com/warsaw. Speci al breakfast menu featuri ng
omelettes, pancakes, eggs, juices, coffee etc. Prices
starts from 12z. Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00.
PTA6UEGBSW
Jimmy Bradleys E-3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. (+48) 22
654 66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Irish breakfast
(sausages, bacon, eggs, tomato, mushrooms and baked
beans) in two sizes (medium 25z, and small 18z) or
scrambled eggs with bacon and mushrooms priced at
12z. Available from 10 during the week or 12 at week-
ends. Q Breakfast served from 10:00, Sat, Sun from
12:00. PA6UGBSW
McDonalds A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawa II,
pawilon 64, WPP ( Warszawa Centralna), tel. (+48)
694 49 60 18, www.mcdonalds.pl. When only the Egg
McMuffin will do or its really early in the morning. Find
it in the tunnels under Warsaw Central Train Station. Q
Breakfast served 05:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 05:30 - 11:00.
PAGSW
Breakfast
79
and chocolate. Theres guilty pleasures aplenty in this place,
and all packaged inside a design thats half Martha Stewart
and half English country house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon
11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW
Specjay Regionalne C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 44, tel. (+48)
662 25 42 15, www.specjalwiejski.pl. This is a great little
caf and deli serving out meat and potatoes in all their varying
Polish forms, but in small enough portions to not come away in
pain. Think Polish tapas - its a great place to go and sample
the full range of Polish sausage meat and ham, especially
when the prices are so small. As an extra bonus, if you really
like what you have you can order some more from the deli to
take home for later. Furthermore, the owner is something of
a mead fanatic and they have a great hot and cold selection.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. PAGBS
Starbucks Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 62, tel. (+48) 22
829 40 21, www.starbucks.pl. Anti-globalists weep. After
years of threatening so the agents of Satan, Starbucks, have
opened shop in Warsaw, and in the most obvious location of
all - bang on Nowy Swiat. And its everything youd expect - big,
comfortable, popular, and with very good coffee combos to keep
the people coming over and over again. Also on Al. Solidarnoci
68a (A-2) and Al. Solidarnoci 82 (A-2). QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Fri,
Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. PTAUGBSW
The Pictures art bar cafe B-4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel.
(+48) 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar.pl. Central,
shiny and new it is currently a little bit hit and miss here: some
nights its packed with cocktail-sipping trendies, at other times
it can feel like doing solitary. We like it though, not least the
smart service and crafty cocktail list, simple but good and well
priced food, and the original art on the walls: no reproductions
here. Particularly pleasant as a cafe during the day. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW
To Lubi B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast,
coffee and apple crumble at 12zl a slice (not necessarily
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. I like this is
what the name means and we do. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PTA6GBS
Vienna Caf B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
wawpl. A welcome splurge. Popular for hushed one-on-one
meetings Vienna is all posh furnishings and trays of cakes
sitting on important looking cutlery. To find better desserts
would take some doing; this place is big kid heaven, offer-
ing limitless opportunity to expand the waistline. Q Open
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. From July open 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAUGXSW
Wiatraki Przestrze Wsppracy C-3, ul. Warecka
8/30a (enter from ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8), tel. (+48)
22 828 40 34. While Warecka is given as the address youll
actually discover the entrance on ul. Kubusia Puchatka, a
name that translates as Winnie the Pooh street we jest
you not. This bi-level destination has a chilled out, drop-out
vibe with diverse music evenings, the days offerings chalked
up on a blackboard and jars of tea resting on shelf space.
The biggest incentive to find it is the fine choice of Belgian
beers which you can soak up with some light bites including
Dutch waffles. Its a little obscure but is a perfect reward for
anyone brave enough to venture off the nearby Nowy Swiat.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AGBSW
CAFS
80
NIGHTLIFE
Bars & Pubs
2NA3 C-4, ul. Bracka 20. Hidden, grungy and ever-so-
slightly grimy this tiny dive bar is the kind of place that should
be stuffed and preserved forever. Its Warsaw as we love it:
no frills, nothing fancy, just beer, chain-smoking locals (well,
before the smoking ban at least), a touch of the 1980s and
surprising music: you walk in expecting heavy metal and you
are greeted by a gentle piano concerto. Quite bizarre, this
is where to bring people to impress them with your inside
knowledge of Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. GBW
Alibi Sports Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka
22, tel. (+48) 22 629 25 23, www.alibi-24.pl. Sports
bar, restaurant, club. This place is all three and it does them
pretty darn well. Pride of place goes to its 65 3D screen
which when hooked up to SKY Sports is as good a place as
any to watch the match. Theres decent food available and
as day wears into night the place morphs into a bar/club with
a cool metropolitan design and the addition (on Thursday,
Friday and Saturday) of a late night club in the cellar. Found in
a central location right in the shadow of the Novotel Centrum
hotel head for the row of premises facing the hotels east
entrance. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun
15:00 - 24:00. PABXW
+ One Bar A-4, ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercon-
tinental.com. The menu proclaims their Bloody Mary as the
best in town, and they may well be right. Someone knows
their cocktails here, and theyre made all the better by the
complimentary bowls of heated peanuts that accompany
each order. A classic tone is accomplished with live piano
music, shelves filled with leather-bound tomes and framed
pictures of pootling steam trains. Pretty girls in little black
dresses ensure your drink is never empty and this first floor
hotel bar proves a comforting cocoon from the outside ele-
ments. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 827
61 77, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaws best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and youll be left getting to grips with clunky two
pint steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. PAGBW
Bojangles Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45
(Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 33, www.
bojangles.pl. Back after a brief refit the signature bar of the
Polonia is pretty much exactly how we remember it - sharp,
smooth and rather quite sexy. Set on the ground floor of this
venerable hotel Bojangles comes with muted lighting, dark
colours and a staff more than capable of fixing up off-menu
cocktail creations. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 -
01:00. PAUEGW
Cafe Bar Lemon B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. (+48)
22 829 55 44, www.cafelemon.pl. Ignore previous dis-
patches about grumpy door staff and head to this lively venue
that offers something a bit different every night of the week.
If its not live music (of all descriptions) or performance art or
an exhibition then its disco night, as a DJ spins the 1980s
sounds and men of a certain age come over all unnecessary.
Drinks are well priced, and the ground floor cafe - open 24hrs
as opposed to the set hours of the bar - is a good kick-off
venue. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00. PAUBXW
A thriving capital city it might be, but Warsaw still lags
behind other European hotspots when i t comes to
hedonistic capers. There is no area truly set aside for
nightli fe, and hailing taxis to get from Bar A to Club B
is a tediously frequent occurrence. The area around
pl. Pilsudskiego and pl. Teatralny has become a firm
favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles,
somewhat replacing the more established territories
of Nowy Swiat, pl. Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza.
I f dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question
then consider heading across the river to the artsy bars
cropping up in the Praga district. In a worrying develop-
ment many clubs have now assumed the thinking that
clothes maketh the man, and youll find most clubs
now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only
those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the
dance floor. Open hours listed should only be treated as
rough approximation; in practice many bars and clubs
will open way beyond the call of duty i f the need arises,
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors
i f business has been slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Bierhalle has a stellar reputation and has mi cro-
breweries in two locations in the city with Nowy Swiat
being the most central. Relatively new on the scene
is Kwadrat, and while its not a microbrewery it does
sell a load of obscure Polish lagers - many of them
excellent.
Cheap
It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat the high-
light of which is Klaps. On the student trail try Plan B, and
mix with local artist types in Nowy Wspanialy Swiat.
Lads
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from
Champions, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends and
Someplace Else. If youre behaving well, and dressed
to the nines, check out the Polish totty in Platinium or
The Eve, or just head to Sketch to get through over
80 world beers. If youre requirements are a little more
carnal check our Adult section but be on your guard. Even
the places we list dont always get the most positive
feedback. New Orleans seems to be the one with the
most recommendations.
Couples
Paparazzi are certainly no slouches in the cocktail
department, or you could head to Klaps where the deco-
rations are, ahem, a little erotic. For candles and tea and
Middle Earth escapist value go for Pachncy Dom Same
Fusy. Or why not some wine in Vinoteka la Bodega.
Splurge
Take the elevator to the 40th floor of the Marriott to
Panorama bar where you can sip your cocktails while
taking in the city below. Theres plenty of expats and
celebs lurking around in the theatre quarter, and if youve
got your dancing daps then head up to the theatre quarter
and try and wangle past face control in clubs like Capitol,
Platinium and The Eve.
Night at a glance
81
NIGHTLIFE
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Caf) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl.
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space, and
unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character. Deco-
rated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s chan-
deliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs, film
screenings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly held.
Find it in the Palace of Culture on the Marszakowska side
of the building next to the theatre in the south-east corner.
QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. AUEGBW
Caf Szparka C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 16a, tel. (+48)
22 621 03 70, www.cafeszparka.com.pl. Most people
cant wait to tell you how much they hate Szparka, though
theyre probably the same bods youll see rolling out the
door come closing time on Sunday. The multi-level interior
has the vapid appeal of a chain bar back home, the staff
live on pause and the chow is the work of amateurs. Still,
theres a secret recipe that keeps people coming back for
more - possibly the obscenely flexible opening hours. Q
Open 24hrs. PABXW
Caffe Przejcie G-4, Pl. Na Rozdrou (underground
passage No. 2 under Al. Szucha), tel. (+48) 22 696 85
50, www.pub-przejscie.pl. A dark and divey tunnel-shaped
bar found festering in the depths of a stinking subway.
Hardcore barflies and other desperados nurse cut-price
beers in the shadows, while local radio stations do their
bit to drown out their rasping ramblings. Wed guess the
interior extras have been salvaged straight from the scrap
heap, with an unlikely collection of trumpets, springy sofas
and even a disco ball on display. For all this its far from a
forbidding venue, and with Warsaw far from embracing the
24hr vibe of neighbouring capitals any venue that can tout
round-the-clock opening hours merits attention. Q Open
24hrs. PAGW
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al.
630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports bar
filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other sporting
detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam out action
from across the world, while those wishing to exercise more
than their eyes can choose from pool tables, playstations
and dart machines that beep and whir during moments of
particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUXW
Column Bar C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44
(Le Mridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 32,
www.lemeridien.com/warsaw. A cavernous art nouveau
interior provides perfect acoustics for the house pianist, while
parlour palms and marble columns top off this seriously
impressive venue which gives you into a Poland long since
destroyed. In summer the courtyard garden provides perfect
sanctuary for high society to take languid sips on Martini
concoctions. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
Confashion Sport B-2, ul. Moliera 6, tel. (+48) 22
203 68 88, www.confashion-sport.pl. We had apparently
(according to some reports) been too harsh on this place first
time out, so we revisited it. Well, its as per, were afraid. A
lovely girl opens the door for you as walk in, but then - job
apparently done - fails to tell anyone that customers are
waiting downstairs (the smoking section) for drinks. For while
there are more TV screens showing sports than you can
shake a stick at, there are few customers and even fewer
bar staff. Having waited five minutes in vain for a barman to
appear we decided that either the place is some bizarre living
art piece or that the bar was self-service. We left. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PAUBXW
Whil e Nowy wiat is best known for i ts gli tzy bars
and flashy restaurants more intrepid explorers will
be familiar with it for contradictory reasons; Warsaws
cheapest booze. Step into the courtyard at number
22 and youll find yoursel f summoned into a shadowy
demi monde of dark, divey bars where beer retails
for as little 5z.
Occupying a rat-like maze of low-level prefab blocks
are a series of super bars squirreled amongst crappy
stores sel l i ng pet food and second hand i roni ng
boards. Known to some as The Pavilions, to others as
The Secret Garden, this collection of bizarre bars rep-
resents Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. Accessed
through mesh grill doorways most remain nameless,
with opening hours generally left to the discretion of
the owners. Essentially populated by students, artists
and people who aspire to work in music all these bars
come bathed in darkness with drinkers squeezed in
like sardines on budget furniture disguised with drapes
and darkness.
Couple of places to keep an eye out for: our favourite,
Yamaya, a reggae themed space with ocean coloured
walls and a multi-national staff who must surely secretly
add rocket fuel to their beer. Also of note, Kociarnia,
cloaked in a dim-red glow with all the atmosphere of a
low-rent brothel, and Klaps, a real oddity with sex aids
as beer pumps and plastic boobs on the walls. The very
antithesis of what Nowy wiat is about, this is a piece
of Warsaw not to be missed.
The Secret Garden
82
NIGHTLIFE
crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest
of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiari ti es abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come cl ose to matching Klaps
in the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and
a wall of plasti c boobs, and like everywhere in this area,
you won t find beer costing more than 9z. Finding i t is
a chall enge in i tsel f - i ts cl ose to the passage that con-
nects the courtyard to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00,
Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00
- 01:00. PAX
Kwadrat F- 4, ul. Poznaska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil-
cza), tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place thats not unlike popping round a mates house - pro-
vided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer.
And wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the
great beers of Poland and Ukraine, including Ciechan and
Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the damage
caused by the megabrand beers. Theres not much more
to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices, chilled
out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in some
board game or other. Highly recommended, even more so
i f you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
La Casa Del Habano C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 7, tel. (+48)
790 300 599, www.lcdh.pl. Display your gentlemanly
credentials by rolling up to La Casa, a coffee coloured cigar
club that just reeks of money - and smoke. Decorated with
padded, leather armchairs and generous wood finishes
this place is the final word in luxury, with Cuban rums and
pedigree whiskies to compliment your cheroot. And i f youre
new to all this, dont worry about looking like a prat - on
hand are expert staff who know this game inside out. Their
suggestions and recommendations are never less than
bulls eye. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
PABXW
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this
is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on
which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart board and a
cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish beer
and British ales and rarely seen spirits like Captain Morgan
dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new
indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls
come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the
British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PABXW
Lobby Bar B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
wawpl. A well-heeled hotel bar that warrants its listing for
its location alone. Situated in the heart of Warsaw, and
inside the landmark Marriott building to boot, you wont
find an easier spot to arrange a meeting in. As such its
a permanent hive of activity with tables frequently oc-
cupied by international business travellers tapping away
on laptops. There is talk of a re-modelling in July while
the business world takes a break in which case move the
meeting upstairs to Vienna Cafe. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
PAUGW
Gniazdo Piratw ul. Oglna 5 (oliborz), tel. (+48)
22 633 71 82, www.gniazdopiratow.com.pl. Relive your
pirate dreams of yesteryear while cracking jokes about Sea-
man Stains inside this imperious addition to Warsaw culture.
Jolly Roger flags and lanterns hang from the rigging and live
sea shanties have the crowds singing along in a tuneless
chorus. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Hard Rock Cafe B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.com/
warsaw. Hard Rock i s decepti vel y l arge. The mai n
entrance, on the upper floor, reveals a small bar area
with high stools, wood finishes and bar tenders shaking
ice and inventing cocktails. Sneak downstairs and Hard
Rock unravels into rock star heaven with all the requisite
guitars, signed pictures and stage outfits hung from the
walls. The bar down here stretches as far as the eye can
see and propping i t up is a crowd that encompasses
everyone from mid-fi fties expats into soft rock, to killer
beauties batting fake eyelashes. The live bands serve
as a uni fying force, and its not uncommon for next door
tables to join conversations come the close of the night.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
Hossa A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 25, tel. (+48) 22 653
45 55, www.hossaclub.pl. The addition of a covered
area attached to the side of the Atrium complex has seen
Hossa pique the interest of passing drinkers. This bar once
had the life of a sock, now it buzzes during the day as local
office workers skip work in favour of liquid relief. The main
gimmick in this modern bar are the drinks, which fluctuate
in price according to demand - keep track of your alcoholic
investments on the screens positioned above the bar. And
dont be tempted by the food on your left, this place is a bar
first and foremost, and thats reflected in the quality of chow
on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 16:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. PAUXW
Hutawka Club F-3, ul. Bracka 20a, tel. (+48) 501
865 903. The 70s, New York, served as inspiration for
Hutawka, though theres more than a smidgen of shabby
Berlin chic too. Set through a gloomy courtyard, and oc-
cupying the ground level of a decaying mansion, this place
occupies the curious middle ground between an edgy dive
bar and a fashionable must visit. Featuring dangling glass
baubles and a red backlit bar theres an almost scuzzy spirit
in operation, and things get seriously incoherent once the
vodka gets ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,
Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. PAUXW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place
looks like its been ransacked by students, and its almost
advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decora-
tions arent so much limited as virtually non-existent, and
you wont find much more than brick walls and a collection
of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish.
But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the
best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed
by a crowd that doesnt get out of bed till way after noon.
QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Open during the week when special events are being held.
PAUEBXW
JPs Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl. An airy hotel
bar whose name is actually a reference to Pope John Paul II.
Light coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering
of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual
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RESERVATIONS:
phone +4S 22 630 36 S7; faximile +4S 22 630 52 59
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84
NIGHTLIFE
Lokal Uytkowy B-1, ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. (+48) 22
831 85 67, www.lokaluzytkowy.org. If you need a reason to
visit old town then Lokal Uytkowy is it. Theres an air of theatre
chic to this bar, a super venue where stripey scarves and an
intellectual scowl are a must to fit in. Populated by artists and
wannabes this is by no means the second-hand, flea market
venue youd assume, rather a neat looking space decked with
framed posters and red, swivelly seats. But the real clincher is
the beer, supplied by Ciechan, practically the best Polish lager
around. Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat 18:30-23:00 and during events.
Check their website for schedule. AUEGW
Lorelei B-4, ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 605 06 67 75, www.
lorelei.pl. Its a hip, happening crowd in Lorelei, a backstreet
caf with dim red lamps, black and white comic book murals
and even some hammocks strung up in the back; good luck
getting on one if youre an ounce over stick thin status. With
nightfall this place takes on a bit more of a bar vibe, with DJs
turning up on Friday and Saturday to play soft electronic to the
citys followers of fashion. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 -
04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Maska C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 4/6, tel.
(+48) 22 828 08 52, www.maska.pl. Long one of our fave
restaurants (the pierogi are legendary) Maska is also a club of
some renown. Keeps things simple by playing a good mix of
music, but as the mood changes from night to night, check in
advance: it could be Depeche Mode night, it could be classic
house. Looks expensive at first glance, but purchasing a round
of drinks is reassuringly not bank-balance busting, though
some of the ladies might well be. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW
Muza (Muse) C-3, ul. Chmielna 9, tel. (+48) 22 827
72 16, www.klubmuza.pl. We walked in, took one look
at the outstanding dancers doing their thing on the dance
floor as the Latino rythyms played, and decided we did not
belong. Yes people, Muza is where Warsaws top South
American wanabees come to hang out, alongside a DJ who
is effortlessly cool (achieved by being effortlessly uncool),
and where it takes half an hour to get a drink. Not to worry,
there are always the showgirls to watch while you wait. You will
either love it or hate it. There can be no inbetween days here.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAEGB
Nowy Wspaniay wiat C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 63, tel.
(+48) 509 64 36 39, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. An-
other art house bar, this one with possibly the most enviable
location in the city - right on the crossroads of Nowy wiat and
witokrzyska. Theres a real Berlin swagger to this place,
and its an extravagant collection of hipsters and beatniks
youll find spread leopard-like on the sofas. Featuring lots of
colonnades and a sky blue design this place has atmosphere
by the bucket, not least at night when DJs and film screenings
draw the crowds. Its been open four minutes, but its already
safe to say a legends been born. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAUEGBW
Obiekt Znaleziony B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3, tel.
(+48) 22 828 05 84, www.obiektznaleziony.pl. An utterly
fantastic bar found in the dim, dark depths of the Zachta Gal-
lery. Decorated with a retro design this marvel looks like it was
cut from stone, and comes with a plastic lions head on the bar
and seating salvaged from the last half century. Jam sessions,
DJs and assorted happenings lend a perpetual buzz, and their
off-beat reputation draws the sort of bed-haired media people
you see racing to work on a kids BMX. Keep an eye out for
their garden BBQs on Thursday to Sunday kicking off at 17:00.
Definitely one to investigate. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 04:00. PAEGBW
Bonu Dobra Sycylijskie B-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 13, tel. (+48) 886 99 26 24, www.
bonu.pl. Youll have seen wine stores before but none
quite like this. The address - top end of the Monopoly
board - gives it away, this place is not so much high
class as positively head turning. Stuffed with antiques
and heirlooms (as well as some sinister marionettes),
heres a winery which simply compels visitors to stay, and
the selection of Italian wines is pretty much unbeaten.
The food is fab as well, with imported Sicilian cheeses,
baguettes, sauces and pastas also up for purchase.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. AG
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48) 22
866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We love the back garden
here, a cool courtyard space festooned with paintings and
plantlife. The rest of it isnt bad either, with a simple, chic
design that doesnt go overboard. The wine list is exhaus-
tive, the service knowledgeable, and the location bang in an
area becoming increasingly trendy. Faultless really. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGBSW
Vinoteka 13 C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 07, www.likusconcept-
store.pl. A beautiful wine bar tucked in the basement
of the Likus Concept Store. Distinctly high class, the
Vinoteka cellar houses wines from all corners of the
globe, with drinking conducted on low leather seats
scattered amid crates and casks. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PAGW
Wine
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B-4, Al.
630 51 19, www.champions.pl. Found in the Marriott
building Champions is a long-standing favourite, with over 30
TVs relaying multiple channels, enabling you to keep track
of several games at the same time. Although huge, its also
hugely popular, so we recommend you book a table in ad-
vance if theres a particularly big international or Champions
League match on. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUXW
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legends-
bar.pl. Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PABXW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.some-
place-else.pl. Located in the Sheraton, SPE has a set of
screens stationed around an upmarket industrial space.
Great food. Great selection of drinks. The only downside is
that the sound may be turned down or they might have live
music on. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.
With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens
located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer
Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW
Sport on TV
85
NIGHTLIFE
Opium B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. (+48) 609 54
26 37, www.opiumclub.pl. Find it if you can: this place
brings new meaning to the word discretion. As such it is
more for laid-back, relaxed and self-confident types than a
few other bolder and brasher nightlife venues in this city we
could mention. Dress just the right of casual and you will fit
in a treat. Perfect for couples on a night out as opposed to
singles looking for a bit of the other. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEGB
Panorama Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 35, www.panora-
mabar.pl. Warsaws highest bar - and indeed Polands - comes
whacked on the 40th floor of the Marriott, and with prices to
match the top tier location. The views of Warsaw glimmering
below are outstanding, and theyre no longer the only reason
to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing glitz and chrome, replaced instead
by a tasteful interior consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet
seating and clever lighting. Theres no better place for Sleep-
less In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00. PAUEGW
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828
42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl/eng. Not everyones cup of
tea perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to
ourselves they get little wrong and a lot right. Serves good
food - and the kitchen is open as late as the bar - good cock-
tails and a decent pint. And, whisper it, but you can smoke
here: in fact, it is business as usual on the smoking front,
as the whole place is a smoking zone, apart from two small
tables at the entrance. Thats why its full when all around is
empty. Top marks. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00,
Sat 18:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PAEXW
Pawiarnia H-1, ul. Brzeska 16, tel. (+48) 609 48 50
30, www.pawiarnia.pl. Found on what was once dubbed
Warsaws most dangerous street Pawiarnia is more proof
of Pragas resurgence. Dull nights dont exist here so dont
be surprised to walk in on tango workshops, jazz nights or
DJ sets. Scruffy and ruffled looking this place is a beatnik
haven, decorated wi th randoml y sel ected furnishi ngs,
peacock feathers and the works of local artists. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 16:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00,
Sat 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. UEG
Piwiarnia Warka B-4, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. (+48) 502
45 01 80. A football shirt and cropped hair are considered
acceptable clothing in Warka, a laddish pub with a heavy
wood finish and some screens showing sport. Seeing that
the Warka brand have supplied everything from the lager to
the mirrors, its not the place to head if you prefer something
else. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 -
02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PAGBW
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a
venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so
low youll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has
seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set
the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor is
limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles and sofas
with springs practically sticking out of them. But this place has
become astonishingly popular, especially with students and
other sorts who look like theyve just finished band practice.
Dont be surprised to find the party spilling outside, with gangs
of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on Mo-
roccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is rife and encouraged, and
its only fair to note this place has become a bit of a magnet
for expat lads looking to tap up impressionable Polish girls.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PABXW
86
NIGHTLIFE
Pod Baryk C-2, ul. Garbarska 7, tel. (+48) 22 826 62
39, www.barylka.waw.pl. Warsaws oldest bar, allegedly,
and a supreme spot if youre looking to avoid Flash Harry and
his pin-up blonde. Fitted with dark woods and screechy chairs
decorations dont go beyond beer mats and a Kolska street
sign (yep, the same Kolska youll find the drunk tank on), and
while it doesnt do anything new its a decent enough pub in a
nice corner of town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Zbkowska 5, tel.
(+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com. Set
behind a mirrored door this latest addition to Zabkowska is
everything youd expect from Warsaws cultural heartland.
Here its all flea-bitten rugs, glimmering fairylights and random
detritus accrued from the skips and markets of Warsaw, while
the music policy involves everything from the Village People to
big band Chicago jazz sounds. Visual diversions come in the way
of flowers dangling from the ceiling, an array of mirrors and works
by local artists, and if youre lucky youll find your beverages
brought to you by a domineering stunner wearing horn-rimmed
glasses. A fantastic venue, with only the barred windows alluding
to the Praga location. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. ABX
Polyester Caf B-1, ul. Freta 49/51, tel. (+48) 22
831 46 36, www.polyestercafe.com. Pub, bar and cafe
that gives off the best vibes for hundreds of metres around;
no wonder it is the busiest bar on the Freta strip. Well priced
drinks get served by a top barman, and the comfy armchairs
out back are perfect for a post-anything chill out. Regularly
hosts art exhibitions and the like, and the crowd is typically
bohemian. QOpen 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30.
JAEGBW
Powikszenie G-2, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22
826 00 69, www.klubpowiekszenie.pl. It cant have been
open for more than three years, yet already Plan B has as-
sumed almost mythic status among the loafers and dropouts
of Warsaw. So much so that theyve branched out, opening
a new venue downtown. Thats Powikszenie, and it does
exactly what Plan B does - unites lots of weird characters
before getting them horribly drunk. To look at ita its not much,
just a few tatty posters and reject sofas, but thats not the
point. This place is about getting smashed, not being flash,
and as such its a bit of riotous night no matter what stage
of the week. QOpen 13:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 06:00.
PAEBXW
Powile G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel. (+48) 22
474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a former ticket
hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the hits
of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground for those
enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are all cheap
and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks tatty and
torn its become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding
their horror behind reflective specs. How to find it? Walk
down the platform on Powile Station, then hang a right down
the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
PAUEGBW
Rabarbar B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 30, www.rabarbar.pl. Formerly the home of celebs
desperately looking like they didnt want to be noticed
Rabarbar remains a popular haunt, only nowadays the traffic
jam at the bar consists of local suits talking shop. One of the
most enviable locations in town keeps business brisk and
this remains one of Warsaws most enduring bars, while
the opening hours keep it packed long after the local clubs
have closed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat
15:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. AGBW
Jazz Bistro G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzbistro.pl. Bright, modern, airy. Jazz
Bistro is everything you dont expect of a jazz bar, with
a smart-casual set of customers picking at food inside
an attractive interior that could have come from a cata-
logue. The live performances are excellent, and better
still, never loud enough to completely sink conversa-
tion. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel.
(+48) 22 887 87 64, www.jazzbistro.pl. Spotless
whitewashed archways and vaulted ceilings are cheered
up by trimmed shrubs, and then theres the show-stealing
cobble-floored, glass covered atrium. Very striking. Live
performances most evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PAEGBW
Jazzownia Liberalna B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel.
(+48) 22 635 37 69, www.jazzownia.pl. Set on
the corner of the Old Town square this place is decent
enough, a simply yet tastefully decorated venue popu-
lated by happy jivers and busy, black-clad staff. When
it comes to the music, you can expect live jazz at least
three or four nights a week, with a mix of music playing
when there is no band on. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PAEGBW
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszakowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing for-
est green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic
shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere.
Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back
the barmans creations while taking in nightly jazz perfor-
mances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Tygmont B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22
828 34 09, www.tygmont.com.pl. Live music venues
are thin on the ground in Warsaw, so the existence of
Tygmont isnt just good news, its great. That it proves a
bit of a revelation is even better. Touting the atmosphere
of a prohibition speakeasy Tygmont has a dark, smoky
look, and a musical menu that extends way beyond just
mainstream jazz. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Thu 19:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAEGW
Zen Jazz Bistro B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22
447 25 00, www.jazzbistro.pl. The Jazz Bistro brand
carries on growing - nine in Warsaw - though unlike other
chain enterprises you wont catch these guys settling for
monotone replicas of their flagship venture. The latest
addition to the family is this white-brick venue, where
guests recline to jazz sounds inside an area decorated
with rich chocolate coloured fittings. The interiors could
be plucked straight from the pages of a lifestyle maga-
zine, with velvet jazz sounds proving a fitting accompani-
ment. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBW
Jazz
87
NIGHTLIFE
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 504 35
37 72, www.saturator.nazwa.pl. See your social standing
rocket by confessing knowledge of Saturator, a scruffy triple
floored artsy hangout in the battered buildings of Praga. Do not
come here if your idea of a good time is talking golf tournaments
and embassy junkets. If, however, youre the sort of person with
hangover stubble and a second hand wardrobe then youll fit
right in. Especially if you have a hat. Nights in this wacky venue
are symbolic of Pragas arthouse renaissance, and last long into
the night once DJs enter and attempt to mix unmixable genres.
QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. PAEBXW
Sense C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel. (+48) 22 826 65 70,
www.sensecafe.com. Sense has been a classic Warsaw
address for some years and its longevity can be traced to the
loyalty of its customers and its ability to talent spot young,
smart, creative bar staff. Following in the footsteps of legends
like Kasia and Becks discover Tomek, a man who clearly loves
his job so much that we wouldnt be surprised if he was doing it
for free. The always impressive shattered glass bar is the place
to perch yourself to get into that pre-club mood with some of
the mans original cocktail creations. Be warned if Ray the host
is around you may not make that club. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. PABXW
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average War-
saw hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits
favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient to
your doorstep. Its all very Arabian Nights here, a loud spot
where DJs play jangly rhythms to a fun crowd who interrupt
dance moves to take blasts on water pipes. While not as
trendy as yesteryear this place can still pack out with good
looking scenesters. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00,
Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PABXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a hospital white hall the magnet here is the beer,
namely the best selection youll find in the city. There are
about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some
bottles selling for a wincing 25z, though youll find these
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one
which doesnt end until youre exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00. PAGW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than
its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle
this construction looks more like a car park than bar, but dont
let that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are
frequent, and frequently excellent, while the location splat
in the middle of Krakowskie Przedmiecie means theres no
shortage of lookers to train your eyes on. QOpen 10:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and newly opened after a facelift. Gone are the Route 66
decorations replaced by a brighter, more open industrial
look. Still boasting one of the best bar menus in the city,
this remains one of the main options for live sports and live
music in the evenings, with acts from all over the world flown
in to entertain. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
88
NIGHTLIFE
Time Cafe C-3, ul. Smolna 40, www.timecafe.pl. Head
through the courtyard and down the stairs to reach this corker,
a basement bar festooned with antiques, drawers and sofas.
This is one of the most ambient bars in the city, with the atmo-
sphere hitting fever pitch each time one of the jazz acts steps
out of the shadows. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PAEBXW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. One of
Warsaws great enduring legends, and even more so now
theyve added Sky Sports to their list of glories. Some visit
WTF for the burritos, others for the football, yet more turn up
to crowd around the bar and sink enough tequila to cripple a
dinosaur. The decibel level goes off the scale at times, and
weekends here bring together a global crowd of all ages and
backgrounds. Definitely one of the best nights in town, and
most certainly one of the least pretentious. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW
Zaktek B-4, ul. Chmielna 5, tel. (+48) 502 22 40 06.
Tucked away in a courtyard set back from the pedestrian
thoroughfare of Chmielna, this atmospheric place is faintly
redolent of a Krakw liquor den with educated whisperings,
and a vaguely surreal, gentle quality attributed to a smat-
tering of antiques, cushions and low-key tunes. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. GB
Zielona G (Green Goose) F-5, Al. Niepodlegoci
177, tel. (+48) 22 825 20 26, www.zielonages.pl. Many
profess the Green Goose to be their favourite pub, and its little
surprise. Although a routine-looking Polish bar, with wood cut-
ter furnishings, solid benches and token promotional bumph
supplied by breweries, the atmosphere positively sizzles in the
evenings when crowds of students mob the bar and drink their
memories of the week away. Wednesday, Thursday, Friday
and Saturday are set aside for karaoke, presenting the ideal
opportunity to make a prat of yourself in front of all and sundry.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Clubs
1500m2 H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 22 628 84
12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous, as in 1,500 square
metres enormous, though strictly speaking still very much
the whispered meeting point of those In The Know. Theres
plenty of abandoned industrial space in Warsaw, and places
like this are finally utilizing it. Its hard to define 1500m2, and
depending on the event youll find it functioning as either a
bar, club, concert venue or gallery - sometimes all four. The
interiors have seen it all, from a Valentines Fetish Ball to the
Prodigy Afterparty; this warehouse style thing has hosted
some of the edgiest nights in town, so no wonder then some
scene people are touting it as the hippest haunt in the city.
QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Open during the week when special events are being held.
Check Facebook for details. AEBXW
Bank Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22
468 85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hit from day one
this is Warsaws latest bar and club of choice. We are no
experts in running a club (if we were we would own a chain
of them) but we know that whatever that certain something
is which clubs have to posses to be good, then Bank has it
in abundance. Smooth sounds, tastefully elegant decor and
refreshingly little kitsch. It is also a lovely building. With a well-
aired smoking section and drinks at a reasonable price its
not only for bankers, either. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAUXW
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll
find in any alcohol shop.
While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving
away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun
of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Un-
like beer with juice (regarded as highly emasculating),
flavoured vodkas are embraced by both sexes and
imbibed copiously. Most bartenders should be able to
provide you with a couple of these Polish specialities
Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik
is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added. You will often see it set on fire
with coffee beans floating in it. Beware
Mead This drink preceded beers arrival in Poland
and has remained a favouri te since. Distill ed from
honey, the drink comes in three strengths with Poltorak
(the kings preference) being the strongest.
Nalewka Barrel aged vodka flavoured with fruits,
herbs and spices. A national speciality, most Polish
drinkers will push this on you at some point, and it
makes a nice change from downing the straight stuff.
Podpiwek This is the Polish kvass, a light yeasty
drink whi ch is wi del y availabl e though you may be
mocked for ordering it. Best for the lightweights as
its name translates as sub-beer.
Wcieky Pies Translated as Mad Dog, this is a
shot made up of vodka, raspberry syrup, Tabasco
and favoured by students and all those wishing to go
home on all fours.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to
cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of heal th an excuse to drink
under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged,
amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste
unlike anything youre likely to have tried before. Incred-
ibly palatable, its best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Zubrowka One of Polands most popular overseas
vodka expor ts, ubrwka has been produced i n
Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with
a type of grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea
Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which ap-
pears in each bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonl y combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Polish Alcohol
89
NIGHTLIFE
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 22
827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. A weird and horrid
location, youll find Bollywood sitting inside a nasty pre-fab
building overlooking kebab shops and potholed roads but
dont be put off because while it promises little it delivers
plenty. Growing in popularity as the night moves on, its all
sequinned eastern drapes, scented water pipes, low-slung
armchairs and projection screens beaming out Indian cinema
hits. The staff with a few exceptions are Indian, friendly and
clearly know how to throw a party and the mix of crowd sees
Sikhs partying away alongside Polish blondies to the sounds
of Bhangra and disco. Poland is often perceived to be not
particularly cosmopolitan and rather conservative. Bollywood
kicks that perception right out of the park. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. PABXW
Butiklub B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 535 33 11
44, www.butiklub.pl. File under clubs for people fed up
with clubbing. This venue sets new standards for having a
seriously good Warsaw night out without having to deal with
the attitude problem found in certain other places we could
mention. These positive vibes are created by a good mix of
music: you never have to wait long to hear sounds you like,
good use of the space, but most of all by a good crowd of
clubbers who think having a good time is more important than
posing. Refreshing. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PABXW
NEW
Chwila Da Klub E-2, ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. (+48)
22 401 17 54, www.chwiladaklub.pl. A bit of the beaten
track but worth the journey if you want to catch local upcom-
ing bands amongst an unpretentious crowd. A decent bar and
friendly staff are also a boon, while the venue is set up with a
stage and small dancefloor in one half and a bright colours,
sofas and brick-a-brac in the other. This place appears to
be run by people whove decided to turn their social life into
a business and with live music and jam sessions on some
nights and board games and film classics on others their
website is worth a look to see what is on. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGBW
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszakowska 115, tel. (+48)
608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Global recession
you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper
of a venue whose opening confirms north Warsaws status
as the official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist
bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of
an oligarchs deposit box thrown into a zap, pow, you didnt
expect that interior. A pneumatic set of breasts should be
enough to guarantee girls entry, while boys should consider
adding an arrogant lope to their step and some designer
horses to their clothes. And the promoters havent been
slouches either, having so far secured the appearance of
several club circuit legends. Theres no set opening hours,
though its safe enough to assume that if its a weekend its
open. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sun. PAEXW
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of Sci-
ence and Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance
facing the central railway station into a mass of writhing
young bodies getting down around the centrepiece fountain.
Once youve done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge
area to relax before heading back out into the surprisingly
ul. Przeskok 2, Warszawa
tel: 22 827 02 83
ul. Przeskok 2, Warszawa
tel: 22 827 02 83
Heart of India
Heart of India
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facebook.com/bollywoodloungepl
90
NIGHTLIFE
unpretentious party crowd. The coat check looked after by
moustachioed men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days
when this place must have been frequented by the great and
not so good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00,
Wed, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAX
Confashion B-2, ul. Moliera 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 692
85 85, www.confashion.pl. Cinnamon might be dead, but
the people who used to frequent it arent, instead theyve
moved off to pastures new. Pastures like Con Fashion, a
place filled with total spanners strutting with their chests
puffed out, hooting and hollering while they buy champers
for MTV tarts. Its as deep as a paddling pool with an urban
design and snotty attitude - youve got to be a certain type
to find anything enjoyable about this place. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
PABXW
Dekada E-4, ul. Grjecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22 823 55
58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous encounters
come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct
result of the people found inside. Here its all 007 barbie
bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age,
an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch
the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else
take your chances on a dance floor that packs out most
nights - the musical menu changes daily, with weekends
tending to err towards disco and chart sounds. QOpen
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAX
Enklawa B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 827 31
51, www.enklawa.com. This is where a young, elite crowd
head to the moment the doors close at Paparazzi. Find pin
slim girls and office wizzkids trotting down the red carpet in
the entrance, before opting to drink within an inch of Hades
inside a two level interior of stone cladding and suspended
steel tubing. The musical menu suits the bevvied-up out-of-
sync dance moves practiced by the guests, with disco, salsa
and chart hits getting airplay throughout the week. QOpen
22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAX
Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Pnoc), tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a
battered factory building this spot has the scummy charisma
of Berlin, mid 90s. Brick wall, dials and pipes have been
left exposed, with leather sofas and red emergency lamps
sprinkled at random intervals. Edgy artwork and experimen-
tal sounds complete the concoction. Not open daily, but youll
usually find special events going off each weekend and this
has emerged as one of the most popular haunts for private
fuctions, catwalk shows and launch parties. Q Open during
events only. PAUEGBW
Hunters Club B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. (+48) 606 39 35
40, www.huntersclub.pl. Occupying the central city loca-
tion that once housed Warsaws premier (if not best) gay
club Utopia, Hunters has opened in the same subterranean
space with a vague hunting theme (see murals of deer holding
hunting rifles) the sub-text being that this is a place to come
hunting for company. The crowd seem a mix of the old crowd
and new giving the place a definite gay-friendly feel while the
music comes courtesy of a raised DJ booth playing some top
tunes from the last four decades. Friendly staff work bars
set over a series of connected, dark coloured rooms which
pack out at weekends with a relaxed crowd while a VIP room
with a velvet rope sits out back. The door police here in its
previous incarnation had a reputation for being incredibly
strict and not particularly polite. That doesnt seem to be the
case now as we were hardly dressed to the nines though the
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU
countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport in-
cluding taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke
in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m
2
,
but that doesnt seem to have been included). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the
one next door. And were not sure if some of the bars and
clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law
at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and
the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while
it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will
still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully.
Smoking
91
NIGHTLIFE
is a former cinema that continues to attract top local bands
who seem to love the noise and the atmosphere a good
crowd at this place can create. In fact, you might often find
a top international act playing here too. Check their website
for listings. Q Open during events only. EXW
Platinium Club F-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and youll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensur-
ing everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes
both. Regarded as Warsaws finest club this place, set inside
a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with
a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glow-
ing floors. This is champagne living, Warsaw style, meaning
hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes
way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX
presence of a velvet rope (sitting unused when we were there)
suggests they expect to be popular. Time will tell. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PABXW
Klub Karmel B-3, ul. Kredytowa 6, tel. (+48) 728 87
73 00, www.klubkarmel.pl. Bling is king in Karmel, a
champagne club which gathers the beautiful and the damned
inside a gorgeous set of rooms featuring a zebra print bar,
leather seating and clever lighting. The cocktails dont disap-
point, and neither do the electro-inspired dance jiggles pulled
by Warsaws social elite. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. AEXW
Luztro C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Nights
are insane in Luztro, a dark, dirty club which doesnt get go-
ing till at least about three. This is Warsaws premier space
for blippy minimal and electro sounds, and something of a
byword in voluntary brain damage. Nights here are legend,
especially the weekend after party which really kicks off
after all the other clubs have closed - just watch in awe as
every freak in Poland gathers to get up to seriously naughty
mischief. Bacchanal behaviour is encouraged and expected,
just make sure to sketch in ample time for recovery. QOpen
15:00 - 08:00, Fri 15:00 - 12:00, Sat 23:00 - 12:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEBXW
Mono Bar B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. (+48) 22 827
45 57, www.monobar.pl. Decorated with a Clockwork
Orange era design Mono Bar comes dolled up in pea green
and carrot shades, with big circles imprinted on the walls,
and retro sofas that wouldnt be out of place in a 70s council
flat. The crowds cool and sure knows how to party. Disco,
funk and house from the decks. QOpen 21:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEGB
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design master-
piece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in collars up polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread
of gazelle like girls. If you were wondering where the good
lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down wood
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena,
checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place
was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats because of the
alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes
decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and
serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW
Palladium A-4, ul. Zota 9, tel. (+48) 22 822 87 02,
www.palladium.art.pl. Long regarded as one of the best - if
the not the best - live music venues in the country, Palladium
92
NIGHTLIFE
Rich & Pretty Club & Cocktail Bar B- 3, ul.
Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 666 49 86 66, www.
richandprettyclub.pl. Opened just as we were going to
press, this is the space previously occupied by Live bar,
though the people behind this new venture will be hoping
for a little more success than their predecessor. In pursuit
of that theyve given the place a makeover while their name
leaves little confusion about at whom it is aimed. Operat-
ing a purportedly strict door policy, dress to impress to
find a split level bar/club with DJ, dance area and big bar
all on Warsaws party street central - Mazowiecka. Worth
a look on account you have hal f a dozen options (including
the always reliable Paparazzi) all within yards should it be
rubbish. Well be back to give it a new look once its had
time to warm up. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.
PAUEX
Space Club D- 3, ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. (+48)
606 61 72 28, www.spaceclub.pl. Warsaws fi rst
bona fide super club looks to have taken its inspiration
straight from the Balearics. Here its all dazzly lights, low
banquettes and excellent acoustics to compliment the big
name DJs, while the setting, bang inside a former metal
factory, provides an excellent backdrop for the hands-in-
the-air masses. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PAX
The Eve Music Club B-3, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel.
(+48) 604 14 54 62, www.theeve.pl. Run by the
same team behind Platinium, so expect a strict door cull
to separate the peasants from the players. Aimed at the
rich and mighty this design masterstroke scores points
for a varied music policy, and looks like flavour of the
month among a playboy set convinced theyre destined
for celebrity - the VIP room is like a scene from Caligula,
with gleeful expats shooting champagne over each other.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAUEX
Underground Music Cafe B-3, ul. Marszakowska
126/134, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 48, www.under.pl. With
Ground Zero history the Underground club has emerged as
the top cattle market in town, and heaves with crowds of
zitty boys, faces stinging from cheap, knockoff aftershave.
The testosterone level goes off the page here, as lads
swagger and sway in drunken competition for the sunbed
fried tart of their dreams. Great for beer monsters and a
good laugh, all complimented by a design that might have
looked futuristic twenty years back. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00,
Sun 16:00 - 05:00. PAGB
Irish
Jimmy Bradleys E-3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. (+48) 22 654
66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Few things are worse than
a bad Guinness so youll be happy to learn the Guinness in
Bradleys isnt just good, its quite probably the best pint in
Poland. Thats largely down to Kevin, a committed publican
often caught conducting stringent quality checks with his
band of regulars. This steamy pub also doubles as the
nerve centre of Frogs & Co, the local rugby side, and bois-
terous spirits and schoolboy japes are guaranteed when
this mob are in town. But theres more to this place than
rugby, and youll find tables and chairs disappearing once
the football lot squish in for the big game. And i f you dont
like sports, dont worry. One of the longest happy hours in
Warsaw draws plenty of others, as does a menu with one
of the best breakfasts around. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGBW
Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provincial
attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere where
homosexuality is still regarded as morally incorrect by a vast
number of the population. Warsaw, a thriving capital city
with a blossoming international population does however
offer a far more tolerant understanding; 2010 saw several
thousand people marched in Warsaw in the first EuroPride
march to be held in Central or Eastern Europe. That said
the local government received a petition with over 50,000
signatures demanding the parade be cancelled and in a
poll, more than two-thirds of respondents said homosexual
couples should not be open about their sexuality.
In the past both the former prime minister, Jarosaw
Kaczyski, and his late twin, President Lech Kaczynski
stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homosexuality
as being unnatural and the former for declaring homo-
sexuals should be banned from taking teaching posts.
Harsh sentiments, but not nearly as malignant as the
ones voiced by LPR politician Wojciech Wierzejski whose
memorable rants reasoned gays should be bludgeoned
they are all paedophiles and members of the mafia.
Yet by the same rule inroads into bigotry are being made.
In 2004 Poland had its first gay wedding (not officially rec-
ognized), and the following year Warsaws public transport
body became the first company to officially acknowledge
homosexual relationships by giving gay employees and their
partners the right to free transport. Although Warsaw, as yet,
offers no natural centre for the gay community this cant be
taken as a sign of something more sinister - even the straight
scene struggles to boast any area that can be regarded as a
true nightlife hub such as Barcelonas Las Ramblas.
While public demonstrations of affection are at best tol-
erated, at worst dangerous, the city offers numerous gay
friendly venues; whether they be the trendy Midzy Nami
caf (C-4, ul. Bracka 20), the expat Tex-Mex favourite
the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (B-4, ul. Wilcza 46) or full on
techno hangouts like Luztro (C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 6). For
gays in Poland the road ahead remains a long one, but
for a country that still listed homosexuality as a disease
up until 1991 the nation has already started cautiously
edging forward. For further info on gay li fe in Poland
click to the English-language website www.gayguide.net.
Fantom C-4, ul. Bracka 20a (entrance through the
courtyard), tel. (+48) 22 828 54 09, www.fantomwar-
saw.com. The oldest existing gay venue in Warsaw can be
found down a dark courtyard on Bracka occupying the base-
ment of a pre-war palace. Two separate entrances here. Ring
the buzzer on the right hand side of the building and descend
the stairs to access their sauna. On entry youll be handed a
pair of nasty flip-flops and a threadbare towel. Inside find a
bar area, and a long corridor that leads to a scummy looking
jacuzzi, dark room and sauna. It might be getting murky, but
this is definitely the choice of sauna for many of the capitals
queers. The left hand entrance leads to a more fully-clothed
area with a popular bar, a couple of cinema screens and
a labyrinth. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 05:00, Sat
18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Galeria A-3, Pl. Mirowski 1 (Hala Mirowska), tel. (+48)
22 850 41 55, www.clubgaleria.pl. One of Warsaws better
gay venues (maybe the best), touts a relaxed door policy and
a subterranean interior which after a recent renovation now
features a couple of dancefloors and a new bar. Accessed via
a mirrored door (ring the bell for entry), nights here dont stop
until the vodka bottles are emptied. Straight friendly and no
attitudes. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. PAEX
Gay Warsaw
93
NIGHTLIFE
Molly Malones Irish Pub B-2, Rynek Starego Mia-
sta 29/31 (entrance from ul. Wski Dunaj), tel. (+48)
22 831 02 63, www.mollymalone.pl. A claustrophobic
subterranean bar with all the right Guinness paraphernalia
but staff incapable of pouring the stuff. With no Sky Sports
either youll find most (actually all) expatriates opting for
the craic of Bradleys, meaning the few foreign accents
youl l hear bel ong to stray touri sts taki ng temporary
diversion from the museum trail. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00.
PAEBX
Patricks B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. (+48) 22
628 93 71, www.patrickspub.pl. A grotty bar that
draws i n l ocal headcases and visi ti ng stag groups i n
equal measure; theyre welcome to each other. The toilets
here are a health hazard, but the real danger lies by the
bar - theres several libellous stories circulating, and we
cant say much more other than watch your drink, watch
your bag, and dont accept freebies from smiling Russian
dudes. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
PAEGBW
Microbreweries
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (Arkadia), tel.
(+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial
moti f prevails in Bierhalle, with giant, tailor-made brewing
vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The
beer is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by
wenches squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is
the pils, and it tastes even better when you ask for a dash
of caramel to be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases
rej oice, bottles, barrels even, of beer are available for
takeaway. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGBW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other microbrewery
tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its
rival Browarmia is by no means second best. Theres a
decent design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and
tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the
competition. More importantly the beer is top standard and
all, and best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto
the revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. PAEBXW
Nightlife tours
NEW
Klubobus tel. (+48) 669 82 59 45, www.klubo-
bus.pl. A Mercedes passenger bus refi tted i n cl ub
decor featuri ng f l ashi ng l i ghts, a thumpi ng sound
system and a bar. These boys wi l l basi cal l y take you
wherever you want to go whi l e you dance and dri nk the
ni ght away. The atti tude seems to be pretty l i beral ,
hence the fi tti ng of a dancepol e i n the mi ddl e of the
bus whi ch seems to get a good workout on stag and
hen ni ghts. You gi ve them a cal l and theyl l tai l or the
ni ght to your wi shes.
Night Guides tel. (+48) 501 22 69 39, www.
night- guides.com. Ni ght gui des show i ndi vi dual s or
groups a di f ferent si de to the ci ty at ni ght. They of fer
a range of tours each wi th the ai m of showi ng you as
much of the l i ghts, fun and acti on as Warsaw can of-
fer. Contact them for detai l s about tai l or-made tours
avai l abl e 363 days a year (excepti ons Chri stmas and
New Years Eve).
tel: +48 669 825 945
www.klubobus.pl
We drive you to
temptation 24 hours a
day, 365 days a year.
Jump on-board and
enjoy Warsaw nightlife.
City 24 C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 6/ul. Smolna 15,
tel. (+48) 22 629 47 33, www.restaurantcity24.
pl. What the hell went through the designers head? On
the plus side its open 24hrs, and thats particularly good
news if youre staggering out from the next door Luztro
nightclub or SoGo strip joint. It wont win prizes, but then
burgers never will. Q PAGBSW
Meta C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 13,
www.metanafoksal.pl. Love it - decorated with old vinyl,
newspaper clippings and propaganda posters this eat-on-
the-run venue unites Capitalist Warsaw with the PRL pig of the
past. Its a great concept, though even better are the prices.
Snacks weigh in at nine zoty, and a shot of voddie at five, and
these factors (plus night owl open hours) make it a favourite
with a lubricated crowd of late night carousers. Put simply
this place is Przekski Zakski taken to the next level, a very
high one at that. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PAGBW
Przekski Zakski B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7 (en-
trance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie), tel. (+48)
22 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Located on the ground
floor of what was once the Europejski Hotel the impossibly
named Przekski Zakski offers food round-the-clock
bites to a loud line of boys and girls making their way
home from the pubs and clubs. The regime here is simple:
herring, hams, pickles and pig trotters priced at 8z and
served on tiny plates by solemn staff dressed as bell boys.
Food is consumed promptly and standing up, and tradition-
ally topped off with a shot of vodka. Q Open 24hrs. G
Late night eats
94
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Those who visi ted Warsaw in the nineti es and around
the turn of the century may have lingering memori es
of a seri ousl y mucky ci ty. Wi th an estimated 1,500
brothels in operation the ci ty established a reputation
as a destination for hair palmed perverts. Then al ong
came the late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who
became an one man anti -sl eaze machine dri ven by a
zeal ous desi re to restore Warsaws l ost i nnocence.
Whil e he never full y succeeded in cl eansing Warsaw
of the brothels and the fl yers Kaczynskis crusade had
a striking impact.
One of the resul ts of thi s campai gn i s that Warsaw
now of fers a col l ecti on of seemi ngl y l egi ti mate and
on the whol e, fai rl y presentabl e Gentl emens Cl ubs.
Brothel s sti l l exi st but not i n the huge numbers
that they once di d. Al though there i s no speci fi c
red l i ght di stri ct youl l fi nd a smal l concentrati on of
brothel s around al. Jerozol i mski e, ul. Wi l cza and ul.
Nowogrodzka. Theyre si mpl e enough to fi nd, j ust l ook
for the fl yers pinned to car windscreens or cl ogging up
the gutters. Don t expect Engl i sh to be spoken, and
don t reckon on bei ng greeted by the si rens pi ctured
on the aforementi oned fl yers.
Now, in the ol d days wed use this point to fire some
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise
prospecti ve punters to visi t the Polish forums on www.
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards
are ali ve wi th the latest despatches from the frontline,
as well as pi cs and maps from the more commi tted
posters. For independent girls check websi tes such
as www.odl oty.pl and www.sexatl as.pl, where youl l
find a choi ce of li terall y hundreds upon hundreds of
feisty Polish girls promisi ng a li vel y ti me. Your third
choi ce is to simpl y put your fai th in a taxi dri ver. More
often than not thi s wi l l i nvol ve bei ng dri ven to the
suburbs and to whi chever brothel is gi ving the cabbi e
a ki ckback. Pri ces in these hi gh end establishments
will tend to start at 200zl, though don t be tri cked into
buying champers for the lady unl ess youre sure you
can af ford i t. Similarl y, greenhorns shoul d watch their
wall et in strip clubs - bills easil y spiral, even more so
when the drinks start being poured.
Scumbag, fl y-by-ni ght brothel s sti l l exi st; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and don t thi nk for one j i f fy youre
beyond reproach. Do not assume ei ther that the
Barbi e of your choi ce i s on the game because she
enj oys rol l i ng around wi th agi ng bal di es. Pol and
has an appal l i ng record where human traf fi cki ng i s
concerned, and i ts safe to assume a fai r few l adi es
staf fi ng such venues have been coerced i nto thei r
career. Fi nal l y, the venues l i sted here are general l y
central and establ i shed but pl ease be warned that i n
recent months weve had a report of 8,000zl bei ng
spent wi l l i ngl y i n one cl ub l i sted here and another of
8,000 sterl i ng bei ng spent unwi l l i ngl y i n one whi ch i s
not l i sted here. I n the second case hal f of the money
was retri eved from the bank because of payment
i rregul ari ti es but be on your guard.
Vice advice
95
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8,
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On the new
Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is an adult
entertainment establishment of the girls in their underwear
which leaves little to the imagination will dance for you
variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outrageously
priced as in other similar places and we have to say that
the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a quick one
were crackers. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
PAUXW
Kokomo F-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from
ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.
kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip bars in
Warsaw, though dont let that stop you taking advantage
of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in its your eyes
that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their
sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two
rooms to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar
serving all the concoctions necessary to complete your
preview of heaven. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission:
50z PAG
New Orleans B-3, ul. Zgoda 11, tel. (+48) 606 92 43
00, www.neworleans.pl. From Monday to Thursday youll
find the girls kitted out in evening dress, with a higher-class
of punter choosing the girl of his dreams before sitting down
to a good, intelligent natter. Of course, this being a strip club,
the removal of the aforementioned evening dress is also
an available option. At weekends youll find New Orleans
reverting to the more standard formula, with girls tottering
around in next to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding
action. Now added, a night restaurant with an erotic menu
featuring oysters, lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 -
04:00. PAUXW
Whats going on in Poland?
Subscribe free to the
Sofia F- 4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24,
www.klubsofia.pl. A legend in nineties and noughties
Warsaw, there was a time no sel f-respecting male could
leave Warsaw without having first visited Sofia. Those
days may have gone and so it seemed had Sofia. But it
appears not with the opening of this place, three years
after the original closed, just down from Pl. Zbawiciela
which boasts a modern spacious club area and a host
of minimally dressed women. In the wild days of nineties
Warsaw this was known in local parlance as The Bulgar-
ian Embassy. Itll be interesting to see i f it lives up to the
reputation it built then. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed
Sun. PAX
Vegas Gentlemens Club B- 4, ul. Hoa 35, tel.
(+48) 22 696 82 06, www.vegasclub.pl. One of
Warsaws newest stri p cl ub, and accordi ng to some,
i ts best. I ts cer tai nl y the most excl usi ve. Guests
tread down a red carpet before sl i ppi ng past a face
check that i sn t keen on drunken oafs. One armed
bandi t s, Roman pi l l ar s, pi nk seat s and spl ashes
of neon add the Vegas ef fect, but the real reason
youre here are the gi rl s - ten out of ten, frankl y. I ts
50 z ot y to get i n, then 100z for each dance, and i f
you real l y want to i mpress then why not shel l out on
thei r premi um champagne: a sni p at 28,000z. QOpen
21: 00 - 04: 00. PAXW
96
HISTORY
Earl y for ti fi ed settl ements
are believed to have existed
in what is now the district of
Brodo as far back as the 9
th

century, and while historians
st r uggl e t o concl usi vel y
agree as to exactl y when
Warsaw was founded most
appear to accept that the
first recorded mention of the
ci ty can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for
the ci ty i n 1413, when the
ruling Dukes decided to shi ft
the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next
century it gathered importance as a trading point, and was
incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town
was expanding in both status and stature, though nothing was
to prepare it for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union
of Lublin amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the
decision was taken to centralize parliament and move it from
Krakw to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King
Zygmunt III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal
Court north as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this
newly-formed commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was
a different creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area,
secured by its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another
204 homes stood just outside this protective boundary. In total
just 14,000 people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw
was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought
that was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the
Great Northern War kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance
comprising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the
opening attack. The Swedes werent having any of it, and by
1702 their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of
Warsaw. Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back
and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic
and physical damage in the process. The war, a right epic
scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw
was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3
rd
was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at
Racawicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the
rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia,
Prussia and Austria joined together to carve what remained
of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef
Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.
The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30
th
.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Polands
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
97
HISTORY
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be
afraid, spoke the pontiff to the masses, change the image
of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21
st
century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently
prompting the second partition of Poland two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later following
Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The peopl e of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.
Warsaws Historical Timeline
98
ESSENTIAL WARSAW
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupa-
tion, the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glo-
rious and tragic episode in
the citys history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of
the map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous
fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across the
river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw from the map.
Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and
whole districts were set on fire. By the time liberation arrived,
over 90% of the city lay in total ruin. I have seen many towns
destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruc-
tion, commented a visibly moved Eisenhower on a later visit to
the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough to the
indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and its here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in-
cluding the striking St Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul. wietojaska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Annes Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieie), and dont leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than its old town however, and
one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw
Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). Its here, inside
Polands best museum, that youll learn about the citys
doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscel-
laneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep mark on
all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining why Warsaw
is far from the architectural pearl it once was.
Al though the Nazis flat-
tened the Jewish Ghetto
af ter a heroi c upri si ng
i n 1943 there are sti l l
traces of Warsaws Jewish
past, including a remain-
ing piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memori al where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood ( E-1, Um-
schl agpl atz) as wel l as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking
the Ghetto boundari es
has been unvei l ed, i ts
course interspersed with 21 dual-language plaques at sights
of specific interest.
The citys defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking like
something youd see in Ghostbusters the building towers at
just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest and largest
structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the
Soviet people, it was completed in 1955, and built using an
estimated 40 million bricks the crowning glory is the viewing
platform on the 30th floor. While its the most obvious, its not
the only example of the Socialist Realist style, and visitors
have plenty to marvel at from the everyman residential units
of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji, to the stern looking block that
once housed Communist HQ (ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaws
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanw
Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul. Stanisawa
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16).
Chris0ff, flickr.com
Ryszard Mczewski,
wikipedia.org
Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
99
WHAT TO SEE
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the
church and patriotism, explained much by the fact that
during centuries of oppression by neighbouring powers,
the church helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving
Poles an identity. Although on the wane in post-communist
Poland, the church still plays an important role in many
peoples lives and the churches reflect the importance of
religion in the history of the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 88 20,
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw with-
out first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved
by Leonardo Marconi.
Although this serves as the churchs key draw theres sev-
eral other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this
astonishing Baroque creation. The churchs history origi-
nally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden
chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish
Deluge of the 1650s construction on a church to replace
it began in 1682, the cornerstone being ceremoniously
laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed
by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in
1696 though through time would see numerous additions
to its shape. The most notable of these would come in
the fol l owi ng century when Jzef Fontana added two
Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son
Jakub would later extensively refurbish the faade with
Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches
to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaws
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King
forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was
directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally sup-
pressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the
touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated
during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstak-
ingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the
heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is
the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an
urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Wadysaw
Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons includ-
ing poet Juliusz Sowacki and WWII hero Wadysaw Sikorski.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 15:30. No visiting during
mass please.
Jesui t Church (Koci Jezui tw) B- 2, ul .
witojaska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75. Built at the
behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas confessor, Piotr Skarga,
this lovely little Renaissance church was built between
1609 and 1626 for the citys Jesuit community. Having
had something of a varied and colourful history to say the
least, it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter
hal f of the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents,
and even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions.
Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the
citys patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits
at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in
1944. Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, of the few remain-
ing original parts of the interior, of particular interest is
the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother hersel f. The
crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of Prince
Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski
(1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher
to King Wadysaw IV. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Mynarska
54/56/58. Desi gned by Szymon Bogumi Zug i n
1792 this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of
countless movers and shakers. Those interred include
Samuel Bogumi Linde - author of Polands first diction-
ary - and Polands version of the Willie Wonka family:
the Wedels. Hi ghli ghts i ncl ude a cast i ron chapel
dating from 1821.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. ytnia 42,
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the
remains of writer Stefan eromski, it is also the resting
place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison and the
then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silverskjld aged six months.
Q Open 08:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy
Woskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally es-
tablished in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of
868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a
further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained
by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry
gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central
avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Pnocny) ul. Wycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)
22 834 49 32. One of Europes largest cemeteries, and
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casual-
ties, and the bodies of those killed in Polands biggest
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the
city limits. Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Powzki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powzki) D-1, ul. Powzkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22
838 55 25. Warsaws biggest, oldest and most beauti-
ful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold
Staff, aviators wirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize
winner Wadysaw Reymont. It also contains the grave
of Stefan Starzyski, the mayor of Warsaw at the time
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed
during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
onierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. wirki i Wigury
10. Dominated by a huge needle like monument this
is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way
from the airport. The towering monument features some
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads To
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Po-
land 1944-1945. Mass graves containing the remains
of 20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial. Q
Open 24hrs.
Warsaw Upri si ng Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powstacw Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the 44
Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with
wood graves and red and white sashes.
Cemeteries
100
WHAT TO SEE
Military Cathedral (Kat-
edra Pol owa Woj ska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Duga
13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687 77
02, www.katedrapolowa.
pl. Comprising of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and
monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist
friars, the extraordinary Military
Cathedral, also known as the
Church of Our Lady Queen of
the Polish Crown, is the capitals
main garrison church. Having
spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage and
a depot for German soldiers during WWI, the church was
reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after
independence in 1918 and became the seat of the field
bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction
during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix
of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large
oil paintings depicting the most well known of Polands battles
and uprisings.QOpen during mass, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
St. Alexanders Church (Koci w. Aleksandra)
C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy, tel. (+48) 22 628 53 35. Modelled
on the Roman Pantheon, this church boasts a sculpture of
Christ that dates from the 18th century. It was here that
Allied secret agents met during WWII. The churchs lower
level is used for services for deaf mutes (though note there
will be none in July). Father Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of
St. Alexanders, founded the nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes
and the Blind.QOpen 10:00-16:00, 17:00-18:30. Closed Fri,
Sun. No visiting during mass please.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) B-2, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 99 77, www.
swanna.waw.pl. St Annes survived the war with a few token
scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to
destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompetent
builders - by 1949 the whole church threatened to come crash-
ing to the ground. The thoughtless construction of the nearby
Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several landslides, resulting in huge
cracks appearing in the floor of the church. It took a team of 400
people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and
shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasnt the first time
St Annes had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around
the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden
(1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently
the victim of an arson attack. The classicist faade dates from
1788 and is the design of the royal architect, Piot Aigner. The
interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The view
tower is one of the best in Warsaw.
One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross
you will see there. These two planks of wood became the
focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in
the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our
piece on the presidential cross. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 22:30. No visiting during mass.
St. Augustines Church (Koci w. Augustyna)
A-2, ul. Nowolipki 18, tel. (+48) 22 838 30 95, www.
swaugustyn.pl. Completed in 1896 this neo-gothic edifice
will be familiar to anyone with a keen interest in the Holocaust.
Situated in the heart of the ghetto the church was spared
destruction while the streets surrounding it were turned
into a sea of bricks. It was torched after the 1944 Uprising,
though was sufficiently restored to hold its first post-war
mass in 1947. Q Open 07:00-10:00, 18:00-19:30 and by
prior arrangement.
Pawi ak Pr i son
(Wizienie Pawi -
ak) A-2, ul. Dzielna
24/26, tel. (+48) 22
831 92 89, www.
muzeumni epodl e-
glosci.art.pl. Built in
the 1830s to serve as
a Tsarist prison, Pawiak
came to the fore during
WWII when i t slipped
into the hands of the
Gestapo. Duri ng the
Nazi occupation it be-
came the largest po-
litical prison in Poland
and saw over 100,000 inmates pass through its gates.
Of this number, over 37,000 were executed within the
grounds, while a further 60,000 were transported to
extermination camps. Subterranean cells designed to
house three people were often crammed with anything
up to 18 prisoners. Dynami ted during the German
retreat, Pawiak has been restored as a memorial to all
those who suffered inside, and now houses haunting
photo displays, prisoners belongings and reconstructed
cells. A mangled tree, preserved after the war, stands
outside the gates bedecked with obituary notices dating
from 1944. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission free.
Pawiak Prison
Royal Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.
zamek- krolewski.pl. More a pal ace than a castl e,
thi s bui l di ng i s the pri de of Warsaw, reconstructed
from a pil e of rubbl e at incredibl e cost between 1971
and 1984. Much of the furni ture was donated by now
deceased commi e buddi es such as the GDR and
USSR, and much of the money for rebui l di ng came
from generous donati ons from exi l ed Pol es. Dati ng
back from the 14th century, the castl e has been the
resi dence of Pol i sh ki ngs, then of the presi dent and
then the seat of parl i ament. The prescri bed tour
wi l l take you through the Ki ngs apar tments and
chambers, heavil y adorned wi th paintings of famous
Pol i sh moments. Maps on the wal l refl ect Pol ands
greatest days, when i t stretched from the Bal ti c to
the Bl ack Sea. Some of the hal l s are reputed to be
intermi ttentl y haunted by a whi te lady. According to
l egend her appearance si gnal s i mmi nent di saster.
The nearby chapel boasts an urn contai ni ng the
heart of Pol i sh hero and freedom fi ghter, Tadeusz
Kocui szko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parl i a-
ment. Last but not l east, the opul ent Great Assem-
bl y Hall has so much gol d stuck to the walls, i ts hard
to resi st the temptati on to scratch some of f - j ust
a bi t, they woul dn t noti ce. Behave or get accosted
by vi gi l ant wardens and enj oy the vi ews across the
ri ver to the Praga di stri ct i nstead.QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on 22/15z.
Sun free. Y
Royal Castle
101
WHAT TO SEE
St. Bennos Church (Koci w. Benona) B-1, ul.
Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 569 63 81, www.swbenon.pl.
Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was devotee
of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to Warsaw
in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support Germans
living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944, the
chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-who. Rebuilt
by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating
from 1977. Q Open during mass and by prior arrangement.
St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Koci w. Karola
Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620
37 47. The splendid form of St. Charles Borromeo Church
dominates Chodna, standing out as an absolute jewel
among the socialist housing units surrounding it. Designed
by Henryk Marconi, and built between 1841 and 1849, this
glorious structure was modelled on the Santa Maria Mag-
giore Basilica in Rome. It survived WWII virtually intact, with
only the presbytery sustaining damage, and has been subject
to restoration work to brush up the apostles that stand on
the wings outside. Note the pre-war tramlines still embedded
in the cobbles outside, as well as a stone tribute to Jerzy
Popieuszko - the Solidarity priest murdered by the security
services in 1984; he lived in the great big block overlooking
the church. Q Open during mass or by prior arrangement.
St. Casimirs Church (Koci Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to
commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish army at
the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed
by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944
it served as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct
hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians,
priests, nuns and soldiers who were sheltering inside. Today
it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross
as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Franics Seraph Church (Koci stygmatw w.
Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska 1,
tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.franciszkanie.
pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds the
remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yoursel f by
visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics
found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV
in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books
as holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of
the Nazis. Q Open 06:00-12:00, 14:00-20:00.
St. Hyacinth Church (Koci w. Jacka) B-1,
ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 47 00, www.freta.
dominikanie.pl. This nice little Baroque church was built by the
Dominicans between 1603 and 1639 by the architect Joannes
Italus. Of particular interest inside the predominantly white
interior is the Chapel of St. Dominic. Paid for by the Kotowski
family and designed by Polands greatest late-17th-century
architect, Tylman van Gameren, the chapel was one of the
few parts of the church to survive the war. During the Warsaw
Uprising the church was used as a hospital and was almost
completely destroyed in 1944. Its current form dates from
1959. Q Open 07:00 -19:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. Johns Cathedral (Katedra w. Jana) B-2, ul.
wietojaska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.
mkw.pl. Originally built in the 14th century, Warsaws old-
est house of worship is steeped in history. The last king of
Poland, Stanisaw August Poniatowski, was crowned and
buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution
of May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of
Adventure Warsaw tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25,
www.adventurewarsaw.com. Tours of Warsaw
showing the country of the Peoples Republic, Praga and
Hidden Warsaw inside a vintage Nysa 522.
City Sightseeing Warsaw tel. (+48) 793 97 33
56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Buy one ticket and hop
on and off the bus as you please. The bus departs from
the Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side every hour
between 10:00 and 17:00. Commentary available in a
multitude of languages including English, Polish, German
and Japanese.See their website for tour details, routes
and timetables. Q Tickets 24hr 60z, 48hr 80z.
Mazurkas Travel B-1, Al. Wojska Polskiego 27,
tel. (+48) 22 389 41 82, www.mazurkas.com.pl.
Tours of Warsaw and further afield, including Chopin
themed excursion, Auschwitz and Wieliczka Salt Mines.
Transport, hotels and restaurant bookings also. QOpen
08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Y
Warsaw City-Tour tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.
city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-
decker bus. The tours start from ul. Krolewska (B-3) just along
from the Sofitel Hotel at 09:50, 11:50 and 13:50, 15:50 and
17:50. You can jump on and off around the route if you like
and there are audioguides available in 12 different languages.
The route takes about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the
major sites in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw,
WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park.QSingle journey
ticket 40/34z. One day ticket 60/54 z. Two day ticket
80/72z. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/day,
274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3 children
254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey).
Tours
Warsaw City-Tour
Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of
the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.
Traveling over the course of approximately two hours, a double-
decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places
of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches,
monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well
as the Jewish historical sites.
A GPS 12 language audio system, will give explanations and
accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting
and an unforgettable one.
Details on: www.city-tour.com.pl, tel: +48 500 033 414
102
WHAT TO SEE
Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands
first president), as well as various Mazovian knights. Other
interesting details to look for include the covered walkway
that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added
in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assas-
sination attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major
landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the
1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap
of ruins. Rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style, the interior today
boasts the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz. The 18th century
bell that was destroyed in 1944 has since been recovered
and glued together, and can now be found in the centre of ul.
Kanonia (B-2). On the external wall by the main entrance are
fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by
the German army. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30.
No visiting during mass please.
St. Marys Church (Koci Nawiedzenia NMP)
B-1, ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.
przyrynek.pl. Scan the horizon of the new town and the
chances are youll find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape
of the Church of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th
century on the whim of a Mazovian princess this brick beauty
allegedly stands on the site of an ancient pagan place of wor-
ship. Extensively remodelled over the centuries it was rebuilt
true to its original form after WWII.QOpen during mass only.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in
Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary
figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Rus-
sian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled
east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading
to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland
in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his
native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has
been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults
and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace
remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogrdek
(Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of
freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855,
while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the
Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewiczs body now lies
in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beauti fully
written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century.
His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and
traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on
the monument.
Aviator Monument (Pomnik Lotnika) E- 4, ul.
wirki i Wigury. Fittingly located on the route from the
airport one of the first sights that will greet visitors as
they crawl into the city centre is the sight of a lone aviator
standing at the top of ul. wirki I Wigury. The statue actu-
ally honours two men, Franciszek wirko and Stanisaw
Wigura, Polands most renowned aviation heroes. To list
their achievements would require an extra page, suffice to
say their finest hour came when they clinched victory in the
Challenge 1932 international air contest. That was also to
be the year the pair of aces died, crashing while on their
way to another flying competition in Prague. The statue is
a replica of the one unveiled in 1932 on Pl. Uni Lubelskiej.
Blown up by the Nazis a faithful copy was reconstructed
and placed in its current location in 1967.
Visits to Polands most prestigious street, Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, start by the Royal Castle, next to the
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular
meeti ng poi nt wi th l overs and buskers al i ke wed
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Annes a
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came
wi thi n a whisker of coll apse when work began on
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel
project caused several landslides and it took a team
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented
a way of solidi fying the soil by way of directing elec-
tric currents into it. The interiors of St Annes house
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for
visiting is the taras widokowy, a viewing platform on
top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument
that honours Polands best loved bard. This statue was
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled
at a ti me of I mperial Russian repressi on the very
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind
is one of the Warsaws biggest mysteries. Everyone
knows the pi nk buil di ng wi th that great bi g chunk
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built
in 1784 to serve as a travellers inn this mysterious
structure is actually student digs, as well as home
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the
original examples of the classicist style to be found
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb
representing the world.
Next up its the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands various aris-
tocratic families and in the 18th century became the
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski
would prove to be one of Polands finest monarchs, and
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very
grounds, is recognized as Europes first.
When Pol and regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 the
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve
as home to the Pri me Mi nister and his Council of
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he
spent so much time pottering around admiring the
architectural details he was late for his meeting with
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous
events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact the
Soviet Unions answer to NATO was rati fied within
its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the com-
munists and opposition were held here, paving the way
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as
the official home of the Polish president.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie...
103
WHAT TO SEE
Charles de Gaulle Monu-
ment (Pomnik Charlesa
de Gaullea) C-4, Rondo de
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is
the subject of one of Warsaws
newer monuments. Striding
away from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monu-
ment is a gift from the French
government and can be found
on (C-4) Rondo de Gaullea.
A resident of Warsaw in the
1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of
a hero in these parts for the
role he played in The Battle of
Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in turmoil following the aftermath
of WWI the Red Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at
enslaving the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy
march to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army
just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft ac-
tion to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The
battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles
claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to
describe as the seventh most important battle in history. The
Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle
fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military
honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cross-monument Pl. Pisudskiego. Nine metres high
and made of white granite June 6, 2009 saw the unveiling
of giant cross on pl. Pilsudskiego. It was here that Pope John
Paul II returned to Warsaw for the first time after being made
pope, and it was also on this spot a candlelit vigil was held
when news first broke of his death. The inscription is taken
from his sermon and reads: Let your spirit come down and
renew the face of earth, this earth. Unveiled by Warsaw
Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz
Nycz, the towering monument was designed by Jerzy Mierz-
wiaka, Marek Kuciski and Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G- 4, Park Ujazdowski. Born in
Kurywka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered as a
politican, patriot and musician. Having entered the Warsaw
Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor after
graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they married,
spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887 he made his
public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious and his growing
popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not just
as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was based in
Paris during WWI and it was during this time he became actively
involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish National
Committee. With the end of the war he sought a return to his
homeland where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska
Uprising (which saw Pozna merged into the newly reformed Polish
state), he was elected Polands third ever prime minister. It was
he who signed for Polands part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles,
though his fall from grace was just around the corner. Many
thought he had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public
discontent he resigned from office in December 1919. A short
stint as Polands representative in the League of Nations followed
before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside from being a
skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular
public speaker, known for his devastating wit. One anecdote
recalls him being introduced to a polo player with the words: You
are both leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very
different. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned Not
so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a
poor Pole who plays solo. During WWII he became an eminent
figure in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died
in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation.
Next door its the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long re-
garded as one of Warsaws most exclusive hotels. Tread
through the marble lobby and youll learn why; etched
in brass by reception youll find the names of dozens
of celebrities whove stayed here, including Picasso,
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaws
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and
Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and theres plans afoot to
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yoursel f dont
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at
a ball held in his honour.
One thing that wont have escaped your notice at this
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,
youve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,
before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaws
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Up-
rising the university continued to operate underground,
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with
Krakws Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciski, the late presi-
dent Lech Kaczyski and poet Julian Tuwim.
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers
from the student body cross the street making a line for
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written
about this place, so we wont add anything other than
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,
at the end of KP, its Copernicus himself and his statue
has also played its part in Warsaws recent history.
...Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Urbanlegend
104
WHAT TO SEE
Jan Kiliski Monument (Pomnik Jana Kiliskiego)
B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliski,
a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794
Kociuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliski
and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassa-
dors Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his
imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish
virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in
1936 and originally located on pl. Krasiskich. In reprisal
for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid
Kiliski inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within
days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti
People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliski. After the war the
cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being finally
relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.
Jzef Pi sudski Monu-
ment (Pomni k Jzef a
Pi sudski ego) F- 2, Pl .
Pisudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Pisudski, a man
many Poles hold responsible
for winning the country its in-
dependence in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles
of Russian control; his earl y
years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully
convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his
finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off
the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently
saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the
rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monumen
is the work of Tadeusz odziany, and Pisudski fans can view
another such monument to the man on ul. Belweder.
King Sigismunds Col -
umn (Kolumna Krla Zyg-
munta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
Built in honour of the man who
made Warsaw the capi tal of
Poland, the column was erected
back in 1664 and stands twenty
two metres high. During the war
the col umn col l apsed under
bombardment and the original
now lies close to the Royal Cas-
tle (and is considered lucky to
touch). The figure of Sigismund
survived and the new column
was proudly re-erected in 1949.
Monte Cassino Monument (Pomnik Monte
Cassino) B-2, ul. Duga 52. The Battle of Monte Cassino
was actually a series of four intense and sometimes con-
troversial battles that took place between January 20 and
May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine
monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino in
southern Italy. After the successful Allied landings in Italy in
September 1943 a route was needed from the Allied position
north of Naples to Rome, and the only way through was via
the Liri Valley. Blocking the valley was a mass of German-
occupied hills around the town of Cassino. Involving British,
US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish
troops, fierce battles raged against the Germans on a slow
and brutal advance towards the monastery, whose eventual
capture would give the Allied forces the access they needed
Tadeusz Kociuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
elazn Bram. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1746-1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed
and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked
the land. In another country - America - he succeeded,
and yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monu-
ment to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in the
presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassa-
dor. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington
by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf
of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White
House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy
in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.
The man himsel f was educated in Warsaw and Paris
during which time Poland was partitioned for the first
time in 1772. Kociuszko found himself attracted to the
American fight for independence and arrived in Phila-
delphia aged 30. Upon arrival he read the Declaration
of Independence and found himself so inspired and in
concert with its ideology that he determined to meet the
man who wrote it, Thomas Jefferson. The two men later
began a lifelong friendship which became so binding that
Kociuszko made Jefferson the executor of his will. Jef-
ferson was to call Kociuszko the purest son of liberty
among you all that I have ever known, and of that liberty
which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.
I t was as a col onel i n the engi neeri ng corps that
Kociuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice
of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that
was to become the decisive turning point of the northern
campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The
victory at Saratoga won the northern campaign and the
alliance of the French as Louis XVI officially recognised
America as an independent country. Kosciuszko was
then charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where
he built an impenetrable fortress that would later become
Americas premier military academy. Rewarded with
citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near
Columbus Ohio at the end of hostilities, Kociuszko found
himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive
neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kociuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kociuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and
became regarded as Polands leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko using his experience of the American
war of Independence led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Kociuszko Monument
105
WHAT TO SEE
to open the road to Rome. At a cost of over 25,000 lives
including the deaths by heavy allied bombing on February
15 of a number of Italian civilians who were taking refuge in
the monastery, the final battle ended on the morning of May
18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish
12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally reached what was by
then an empty and completely devastated monastery. The
Battle of Monte Cassino paved the way for the Allied advance
on Rome, which fell on June 4, 1944, two days before the
Normandy invasion, and is one of Polands proudest military
achievements. On May 18, 1999, exactly 55 years after the
event, an 8.5-metre monument designed by the Polish sculp-
tor Gustaw Zema was unveiled in a small park by just north of
the (A-2) Archaeological Museum. Resembling the outline of
Italy with a number of eerie, battle-related elements built into
it, the monument also features a pair of wings, supposedly
representing Nike and the Polish Hussars.
Ni c h o l a s Co p e r n i -
cus Monument (Pom-
nik Miko aja Koperni -
ka) C- 3, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie. The founder
of modern astronomy. A shel-
tered academic, he made his
observations a century before
the invention of the telescope
and without help or guidance.
His book De Revolutionibus
(1543) posited that the earth
rotated on its axis once a day,
travelled around the sun once
a year, and that mans place in the cosmos was peripheral.
This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical
idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt
at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolu-
tionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there
was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological
view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is
this mans legacy.
The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair share
of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze plaque
insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German.
In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski, ducked the
guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis
removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other
surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was
recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski
has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery. The
plaque at the centre of the storm is unfortunately held in
Warsaws History Museum which is closed for renovation
for the foreseeable future.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just
before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town
visitors cant fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as
in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with
sword and shield raised aloft this noble structure is actually
officially named Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-
1945, and remembers the thousands of locals who fought
and died against Nazi rule. The statue made its debut in
1964, originally standing on pl. Teatralny. This was before
there was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising,
and as such Nike became the favoured assembly point for
Polish veterans, as well as student agitators in later years.
In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved facelift and
the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current
spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars and
buses that gasp too-and-fro.
His statue takes pride of place in front of Polands presi-
dential palace on Krakowskie Przedmiescie, so he must
be important, right? Correct. The wonderfully named
Stanisaw II August Poniatowski (born Count Stanisaw
Antoni Poniatowski) was the last King and Grand Duke
of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth (176495). His
official title was, memorably, Stanisaw August, by the
grace of God and the will of the people King of Poland,
Grand Duke of Lithuania and Duke of Ruthenia, Prus-
sia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia, Podolia,
Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732, Poni-
atowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the nascent
Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambassador of
Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in St. Petersburg
in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski quickly became a
regular lover of the insatiable Russian Empress. When the
Polish King August II died in 1763, it was with Russian sup-
port that Poniatowski was elected king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol-
ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowskis three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most (and warranted a statue in
front of the presidential palace) for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europes first and the
worlds second (the United States had enacted the first, in
1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the power of
the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality amongst
all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen, townsfolk
and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was about to
crumble, and the constitution came far too late to save it.
Appalled, the Polish nobility, under the flag of the Targowica
Federation and allied with Russian nobles keen to prevent
similar ideas of equality infiltrating into Russia, launched
a full scale war (known, somewhat incorrectly, as the
Polish-Russian War of 1791-2) on Poniatowski. Betrayed by
Prussia (which had until then been a keen ally), Poniatowski
was defeated in 1792 and the constitution expunged
from the statue book. The status quo ante-bellum was
restored, and Poniatowski managed to cling on as King
until 1795 when the final partition of the Commonwealth
forced him to abdicate. He fled to St. Petersburg, where
he lived at the grace of Catherine until he died in 1798. He
was first buried at the Catholic Church of St. Catherine in
St. Petersburg, his remains being transferred to a church
at Woczyn in 1938. In 1995, in belated recognition of his
role in creating the 1791 constitution, he was formally
reburied at St. John's Cathedral in Warsaw.
Stanislaw Poniatowski
106
WHAT TO SEE
Syrena The mermaid is the
symbol of Warsaw, and as
such youll find her likeness on
everything from buses to beer
cans. The legend dates to the
time of Prince Kazimierz, who
allegedly got lost while on a
hunting expedition in the area
that is now Warsaw. Behold, a
mermaid transpired from the
marshland, and gui ded the
hapless prince to safety by
firing burning arrows. Firmly
established as an icon of Warsaw youll find three mermaid
statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square,
(D-2), witokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The
original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was
actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on
the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grb Niezna-
nego onierza) B-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego. The only sur-
viving part of the destroyed
Saxon Palace. The palace was
constructed during the 17th
century though the tomb was
not added to the complex until
1925. Eerily, the tomb was the
only part of the structure to
survive being dynamited by the
Nazis. The ashes of unknown
soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.
To those deported and murdered in the East (Pom-
nik Polegym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)
E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura-
nowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.
There are still instances of poor or no English language ex-
planations but these are becoming less common. Without
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of
modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the
citys most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaws best
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of
which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum
Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of
manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz,
the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading
Polish writers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6/5z, Sun free for
permanent exhibit only (closed every last Sun of the month). Y
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Mczestwa)
G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing
as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the buildings original
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs. In
1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and for the
next five years became one of the most feared addresses
in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal
interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently
housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched
by the carnage of war and now also holds a small but
sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where prison-
ers were held prior to interrogation, have been left largely
as they were. Known as trams, Poles would be sat on
wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited their
fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled to
sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end.
Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The
bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing
story. Although the torture cells have long since been
blocked off, the English language tape that the curator
plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners
were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs
and electrocuted. Those who didnt co-operate would,
in some cases, be forced to watch their own families
being tortured. The office where prisoners would have
been checked in also remains, complete with a faded
portrait of Hitler and battered issues of Wehrmacht
magazine lying around. Manacles, bullwhips and other
sinister instruments can also be seen stacked on the
bookshelf. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission free.
Gestapo HQ
The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazacw 25
(entrance from ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie), tel. (+48)
22 839 12 68, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl.
First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on Wybrzee
Gdyskie and is not that easy to find. Once you get there
you discover a complex built in the wake of the 1830 No-
vember Insurrection, and commissioned by Tsar Nicholas
I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian gar-
rison - and as a political prison and execution ground.
Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose
of the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic
movement within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who
have passed through its gates, familiar names include
national hero Jzef Pisudski, communist agitator Red
Rosa Luxembourg and Feliks Dzieryski - the monster
who would progress to become head of the Russian
secret police. As well as being a supreme example of
19th century fortress architecture, the 36 hectare site
has several points of interest. The labyrinth of tunnels
and prison cells have been well preserved and contain
numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics and
firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940,
a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution - its
here that Polish heroes Traugutt and Dbrowski were
executed in front of a crowd of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission free.
The Citadel
107
WHAT TO SEE
Car Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji i Techniki) H-1,
ul. Zbkowska 27, tel. (+48) 502 25 70 21, www.muzeum-
motoryzacji.com.pl. The main department of this museum is
set outside of Warsaw to the south-west and can be reached by
train from Warszawa rdmiecie to Otrbusy. This part contains
about an ever-growing collection of cars and lorries from the
20th century and is set in a rundown warehouse unit on the
site of an old vodka factory in the Praga district of the city (over
on the east bank of the Wisa). The armoured Volvo used as a
Presidential limousine by Lech Walesa is of interest and the Fiat
126p Cabriolet and the Polonez off-road vehicle prototype have a
slight comical value, but that aside there is little to attract anybody
other than the true enthusiast. Having said that, by the end of
June Europes largest collection of trucks will be housed here.
That should bring in the crowds.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/7z, children under 5 free. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.
ethnomuseum.pl. Tragically overlooked by far too many
visitors to Warsaw (who cant see past World War II and
communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and
highlights all thats best about Polands cultural heritage.
There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions,
art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what
is a superb building. There are also exhibitions of African and
Australasian ethnographic art, and the museum is one of the
citys most active, putting on all sorts of temporary exhibitions
and organising hands-on events and screenings of Polish films:
always with English subtitles. Directors of Warsaws other
museums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant,
and unquestionably essential. Do note that major renovation
is about to begin - to make the place even better - and so
parts of the museum might be closed when you visit.QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, Sat free. Groups over
10 people 3z per person. Children under 5 free. Y
Maria Skodowska-Curie Museum (Muzeum Marii
Skodowskiej-Curie) B-1, ul. Freta 16, tel. (+48)
22 831 80 92, www.muzeum.if.pw.edu.pl. Born Maria
Skodowska on November 7, 1867, and better known to the
world as Marie Curie, this small museum inside the building
she was born in contains a charming homage to the life and
work of the Nobel Prize-winning physicist. Artifacts on display
include many personal effects, such as original letters and
one of Curies black dresses, as well as a small collection
of scientific instruments. One room has been adapted as a
recreation of Curies laboratory. The lady who gave the world
so much, including the chemical element polonium, named
after the country of her birth, died in Savoy, France, on July 4,
1934, the victim of leukaemia, which she is believed to have
contracted during her many years of dangerous research.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Tue 08:30 - 16:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:30,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 11/6z. Group ticket
for more than 5 people 16z with film per person.
Museum of Independence (Muzeum Niepodlegoci)
B-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel. (+48) 22 826 90 91, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Rather ironically, the museum
that charts Polands struggle for freedom was home to the Lenin
Museum during communist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism,
the museum covers all the key dates of Polish history, including
the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections,
Pisudskis return to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity.
Among the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from WWII
concentration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist
Realist artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last ticket sold 30 minutes before closing. Admis-
sion 6/4z. Groups over 10 people 3z per person. Sun free. Y
Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was consid-
ered the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieie
would have been its Champs Elysees, its importance
recognized by the number of palaces, insti tutions,
monuments and churches that line it. Of those none are
more important than the Presidential Palace at number
46/48, that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by
stone lions and stern looking soldiers. Construction on it
started in 1643 at the behest of Stanislaw Koniecpolski,
though was only completed after his death. It passed
into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the
18th century became famed for its banquets - the most
extravagant being held to commemorate the coronation
of Stanisaw II August Poniatowski in 1789; over two
million zoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.
Poniatowski was to prove one of the nations finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europes first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowskis
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965.
Of its residents none were more eccentric than General
Zajczek, a one legged Duke who was carried around
in his armchair by a team of simpering servants. His
wife, an ageless looking maiden, attributed her eternal
youth to a strict diet that banned any hot meals, and a
rigorous set of guidelines that included having pots of
ice placed under her bed and freezing cold baths. After
1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish
Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting Tsar.
In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to the
ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society,
and in 1879 Jan Matejkos epic painting The Battle of
Grunwald was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw
public. Extensively remodelled throughout the course of
history one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning
of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to
make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its
independence in 1918 it was commandeered to serve as
home of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers.
When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he spent so much
time pottering around admiring the architectural details
he was late for his appointment with the Polish Foreign
Minister. Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege
of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later,
though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this
time when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer
to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has
served as the official home of the Polish president, which
is exactly why youll find streams of limos heading in and
out, and square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons
at anyone who strays too close.
Presidential Palace
108
WHAT TO SEE
Museum of Poli sh Peoples Movement Al.
Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76,
www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peoples
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just
try to find any other English-speaker whose been here. As
the title suggests, everything here is focused on Polish
people/peasants, with the oldest exhibit being a 17th century
manuscript approved by King Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a
tax reduction. Most of these scrolls, documents and papers
will be lost on the foreign visitor; making more sense are the
printed materials, which include election posters from the
interwar years, as well as decrees, ration cards and purchase
vouchers supplied by the occupying Nazis during WWII.
Times under communism are particularly well represented,
and number stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard
work and high production. Very Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kosiuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,
flags, medals and caricatures, theyre all here, as well as a
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30-15:30, Sat,
Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 2/1z. Thu free. Y
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popieuszko (Muzeum
Bogosawionego Ks. Jerzego Popeuszki) ul.
Kardynaa Stanisawa Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 22
561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. Youd probably think
a museum honouring a priest doesnt sound like much fun,
and indeed this place really isnt. However, it is a very decent
detour if you happen to be in the oliborz area, and thats
because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popieuszko
came to national attention in the early 80s for his fierce anti-
communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe
and Solidarity it wasnt long till he fell foul of the internal security
services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided
to get rid of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this
purpose, though Popieuszko somehow survived unscathed.
Six days later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his
corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of
250,000 mourners and made headlines the world over. Today
the basement of his former parish church has been turned into
a museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle
for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground,
banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral
are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he
was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is
a curved wall, its bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs
dealt with by security services between 1981 and 1989.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Donations welcome.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.
art.pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war
building, Warsaws National Museum is a must for anyone
visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its
current name since 1916, among the huge array of permanent
exhibitions, highlights include some wonderful pieces from
world antiquity, a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and
Flemish paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the
16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the
countrys leading names in art - Malczewski, Chemoski and
Matejko. Also on display are some fine examples of furniture
and decorative arts inside the Gallery of Polish Decorative Art.
Note that the museum closes its doors for a while on July 15th
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20,
tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. A
rare example of European
Union funding being used in
a genuinely visionary way,
the CSC i s many thi ngs,
not least (in the words of
Polands Education Minister
shortl y before the open-
ing) an attempt to restate
the case for sci ence and
research in what can still be
an intensely and deeply religious country.
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian. A
fully programmable humanoid robot, speaks, interacts,
mimics and performs and visitors can prompt him to make
a number of sounds and movements by the adjacent
control panel (get him to sing the Sound of Music). This will
keep the kids busy while you queue at the central ticket
desk where you will be given a set of credit card-style en-
trance passes. You should keep hold of these as not only
do they allow you to enter and exit the building throughout
the day, but they will also become your ID card as you move
through the exhibitions, many of which allow you to record
your results (which are stored and then emailed to you
afterwards). Make sure you register your name and email
address at one of the terminals on entering.
There are literally hundreds of experiments to visit, spread
over two floors. Roots of Civilisation (Ground Floor), Humans
and the Environment, LightZone, On the Move and Buzz! -
the childrens area, aimed at children between the ages of
0 and 6. Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon
by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in
some cases physical exertion with the aim of helping you
to discover the secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. Theres a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of
your own eye (and then try to recognise it among the oth-
ers photographed that day), discover who or what is living
next to us in a major city or - and this was our favourite - try
to outdo animals at their own game by out-hanging an
Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the arena. There
is also a Robotic Theatre where 3 robots perform a short
story Prince Ferrix and the Princess Crystal by Stanislaw
Lem. Keep an eye out for the times of the English-language
performances which are advertised on the door of the the-
atre. The centre also offers an on-site bistro and cafe with
a conference centre also in the pipeline. Theres plenty to
do and you can easily spend a whole morning or afternoon
here trying everything, particularly if there are school groups
there as there were on our visit.
And this is only part of the whole centre as it will one day
be. A Regeneration zone, where teenagers and young
adults are able to experiment with psychology, sociology,
economy or biotechnology) has now also been opened
while there are plans to open further parts of the centre
during 2011, including a planetarium (which opens June
21st: you can make reservations now), Chemistry, Phys-
ics and Biology labs, where you can try real experiments
and a rooftop garden. Highly recommended.QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission
22/16z, family ticket 57z.
Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus
Science Centre
109
WHAT TO SEE
for major renovation work. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions
12/7z, entire museum 17/10z. Last tickets sold 45 minutes
before closing. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Y
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol-
skiego) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language
explanations mean youll need to hire an English-speaking
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end
is dedicated to Polands role in WWII, with specific empha-
sis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z, groups over 10 people
4z per person, Wed free. Guided tours for up to 30 people
60z. Audioguide 5z.
R a i l wa y Mu s e u m
(Muzeum Kolejnictwa)
E- 3, ul. Towarowa 1, tel.
(+48) 22 620 04 80, www.
muzkol.pl. Two large rooms
full of working and static mod-
el s of cl assi c and modern
trains, large train sets, a dis-
play case full of guards hats
from all over the world and a
huge collection of old engines in
all possible conditions through
the door in the room on the
ri ght. Make a point to head
outside where you will find one of the few (if not only) remain-
ing armoured railway trains in Europe. Heaven if you like this
kind of thing although there was depressingly little English
explanation. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00.
Admission 10/6z. Children under 7 free. Mon free.
The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum (Arsena-
Pastwowe Muzeum Archeologiczne w Warsza-
wie) A-2, ul. Duga 52, tel. (+48) 22 504 48 00, www.
pma.pl. Housed inside the citys former Royal Arsenal, this
somewhat infuriating museum was opened in 1923 and
looks like it hasnt been touched since. Tracing the history
of the region through the use of some nice recreations of
early dwellings and the usual skeletons and pots, the two
floors that make up the museum do, it must be said, pos-
sess one of two rather good things to see, and better still,
English descriptions have at long last been added to some
(but by no means all) displays. The entrance incidentally is
tucked away conveniently on the far (northern) side of the
building. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Fri. Admission 10/5z, Sun free.
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71
ext.125, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style
in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though
the original walls and foundations remained structurally
sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the
shell of the building with the intention of building a military
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as
a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now
Museum of Erot-
ic Art (Muzeum
Er ot yki ) A- 3,
ul . Gr zybowska
3, tel. (+48) 22
403 80 65, www.
muzeumerotyki .
com. Now here is
something youd not
expect to see in Warsaw.Translated as the Museum of
Eroticism we feel that the owner has done himself a dis-
service by giving it such an emotive name. If like us (and
parts of the local media) you were expecting a Berlin/
Amsterdam style museum of Eroticism you are likely to be
disappointed. No shady corners, private dimly lit rooms
or outsized sex toys here. No, what the owner (for the
collection is private and the museum privately funded)
should have named the place is the Museum of Erotic
Art. Because although much of the collection will leave
little to the imagination, and for that reason carries a
minimum age of 18 to enter, it is also unquestionably
art. Set over a series of rooms on the first floor of one
of the modern buildings close to the Radisson hotel, the
collection covers erotic art of primarily Asian origin which
reflects the traditionally far more open attitude to sex in
that part of the world.
Where the exhibition excels is in the diversity and age
of much of the art: this might be glori fied porn, but its
centuries old porn in many cases, and theres much here
of historical import. Most erotic works of Chinese art, for
example, were destroyed during Chairman Maos Cul-
tural Revolution, and those on show here are amongst
the few surviving examples. Then there is erotic art
from Latin America, which survived the iconoclasm
of the conquistadors. Then there are charms with a
sexual theme which were carried by Roman Legion-
naires and little boxes designed to carry a preserva-
tive in from the first hal f of the 20th century. (A little
bit of trivia here. The inventor of the modern seamless
latex condom was a man by the name of Julius Fromm
born in Konin, Poland who patented the idea in 1916).
Theres brothel tokens from the US, posters produced
by the Allied armies in WWI to warn against STDs and
elaborately decorated utensils such as teapots and
cups and plates.
There is also an exhibition devoted to local, Polish erotic
curiosities, from a 1915 condom vending machine to a
notice advising prostitutes on how to identify if a client
has an STD.
An English language guidebook is in the pipeline to help
explain in a bit more detail what and where from the
various pieces are. The museums owner has pieced
this all together over 20 years or more and hopes to
expand to show more of his rather unusual collection in
the coming months.
All in all, its a fascinating look at erotic art and morality
through the ages. If there is a theme it is that pornogra-
phy or erotic art - where the line between the two actually
is could make for an interesting post-visit discussion - is
so very ordinary and that there is nothing new in anything
we see today. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 30z.
Visitors must be over 18.
Museum of Erotic Art
110
WHAT TO SEE
has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the
very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good,
the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Polands leading
contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary,
the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a caf.
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, Thu
free. Parking free.
Wola Museum F-3, ul. Srebrna 12, tel. (+48) 22
624 37 33, www.muzeumwoli.mhw.pl. Home to nearly
150,000 people Wola is that great big district to the west
of the centre, and this museum is here to document Wolas
history from 1374 till the present. Run as a branch of
the Historical Museum of Warsaw, the museum comes
housed in a grey looking neo-renaissance palace dating
from 1880, with the building indelibly printed in the (mis)
fortunes of the district; its here that the 3rd company of
Chrobry II division of the Home Army (Polands underground
mili tary movement) held their headquarters during the
days of the Warsaw Uprising. Operating as a museum
since 1974 the collection here features over 5,000 film,
cultural and propaganda posters, and a huge collection
of posh pre-war sil verware that includes a caviar box
made by Schi ffers and weird looking forks for scoffing
crabs. Li fe before 1939 is documented well through a
series of black and white photos showing Wola before it
was raped by Dirlewanger (see Warsaw Uprising section),
as well as busts and portraits of the fat cat industrialists
who once lived here.
The war changed Wola forever, and these times are remem-
bered by way of photographs of the Ghetto, as well as bits
and pieces donated by veterans of the Warsaw Uprising;
among these personal papers, medals, helmets, radios
and sketches of post-Uprising incarceration. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 3,50/2,50z, Thu free. Groups over
10 people 3z per person.
Touri st I nf ormati on (Sto eczne Bi ur o
Turystyki) B- 4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1
(entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. This is currently the central
tourist information office while the main railway station
undergoes rebuilding work. As such you will have to exit
the station on the Zlote Tarasy shopping complex side
and cross over the road to the Palace of Culture. The
tourist information point can be found in the building on
that side. Inside you can choose from a series of guides
as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts.QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Turystyki) ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located
in the arrivals hall of the new part of the airport, the
point is small but has all the necessary guides and
maps you might need including In Your Pockets.QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.
Turystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find this
point on the Market Square of Old Town where you can
pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gi fts and
souvenirs.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Tourist information
azienki Park &
Palace (azienki
Krlewskie) G- 4,
ul. Agrykoli 1, tel.
(+48) 22 506 01
01, www.lazienki -
krolewskie.pl. The
park and palace com-
pl ex where hal f of
Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional
family stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped
gardens include the art-deco Chopin monument (1926),
the palace on the water (remodelled in 1792), an old
orangery and a classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired
by Herculaneum. The 74 hectare site originally served
as the residence of Stanisaw August Poniatowski - Po-
lands last monarch. In spite of sporadic damage, much
of the dynamite laid by Nazi troops failed to destroy the
buildings. Of special note for Chopin fans are the free
concerts held in the Palace on the Water every Sunday
at 12:00.QSee our Lazienki feature on pages 8-10 for
opening hours, prices and details for all the sights to
see contained in Lazienki Park.
Mokotowskie Field (Pole Mokotowskie) E-5,
Penned in by the districts of Mokotw, Ochota and
rdmiecie this park represents prime real estate, and
right now much of the land is subject to sky-high bods
from nasty real estate developers. Hands off we say,
and not just because drinking in Pole Mokotowskies
countless bars is one of the highlights of summer. Prior
to WWII it was used as a military parade ground, and
then from 1910, one of Europes first airports. It was here
that the Polish aviators wirko and Wigura began many
of their aerial adventures, and by 1921 passenger flights
linking Warsaw with Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg)
were commonplace. The opening of Okcie Airport in
1933 sounded the death knell for the airport, and today
it serves as a popular summer spot for suburbanites,
as well the venue for public events such as the annual
Earth Festival.
The Saxon Garden (Ogrd Saski) B-2/3, be-
tween ul. Marszakowska and ul. Krlewska. Opened
to the public in 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the oldest
public parks in the world, and was originally designed in
a French style, before being changed to follow English
aesthetics in the 19th century. Originally part of the Saski
Palace complex highlights include a sundial dating from
1863, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier; the only
surviving part of the Palace. Although wrecked by Nazi
miscreants in 1944 many of trees in the park survived,
and its possible to find ones dating from a quarter of a
millennium ago. An empire style fountain designed by
Marconi in 1855 stands close to the bottom corner of
the park, and other points of interest include a memo-
rial honouring Warsaw residents killed during WWII, and
a statue of Stefan Starzyski, the citys mayor at the
outbreak of WWII who was later to become another
statistic of Dachau concentration camp.
Ujazdowski Park G-4. Not as grand as the nearby
azienki, its still a pleasant place to walk the dog and
get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under
the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was
rebuilt in the 1970s.
Parks
111
PKIN
Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Paac
Kultury i Nauki) B- 4, Pl. Def ilad 1, tel. (+48) 22
656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Don t l et the name fool
you - thi s i s not the cul tural hub of Warsaw. That sai d,
however l ong youre i n the ci ty for thi s i s a must-see
to experi ence Sovi et Warsaw. For al l the aggressi ve
westerni sati on that has overcome Warsaw, the four
decades of communi sm have yet to be compl etel y
erased from the face of Warsaw.. You coul dn t mi ss
thi s hul ki ng gi ant of a l andmark i f you tri ed. Soari ng
231 metres i nto the sky the bui l di ng remai ns the tal l -
est i n Pol and, i n spi te of recent competi ti on from i ts
hi ghri se nei ghbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gi ft from the Sovi-
et people the structure actually takes its inspiration from
the capi talist worl d, namel y the Empire State Buil ding,
but, believe i t or not, was speci ficall y designed to include
influences from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin
had sent a secret del egation to New York to l earn both
about the buil ding and Ameri can construction methods,
though the outbreak of WWII meant that i t wasn t until
1952 that his archi tects were abl e to commence putting
their knowl edge into practi ce. Lev Rudynev, the brains
behind the equall y monstrous Lomonosov Uni versi ty in
Moscow, was put in the charge of the desi gn, and set
about making the building into one of the most notorious
exampl es of Socialist Realist archi tecture in the worl d.
Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states
and housed in a purpose-buil t village in Jel onki, west
Warsaw, where they were ef fecti vel y cut of f from the
outsi de worl d. Working around the cl ock, i t took them
j ust three years to compl ete the Palace. In all 16 di ed
duri ng the constructi on, though despi te the Ol ympian
ef forts of the labourers Stalin never li ved to see his pet
proj ect compl eted.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing
3,288 rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not
just party headquarters but also the peoples castle,
with invitations to the annual New Years Eve Ball issued
to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardl ess of
this the building became an object of hatred and a stain
on the skyline; like the imperialist Nevsky Cathedral that
once stood on pl. Pisudskiego, the palace was seen as
no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed
from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from 30km
away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under
Stalins orders architects travelled around Polands key
cultural sights, from Wawel to Zamo, observing Polish
architectural traditions, hence the numerous crenulations,
courtyards and moti fs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser) etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking
parquet flooring, secret li fts lie hidden around and al -
l egorical socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient
mythology - its easy to imagine Bond snooping around
pl anti ng l i steni ng devi ces. Several conference rooms
still hold original translators booths, complete with huge
dials and buttons. The crowning glory of the ground floor
is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent red theatre space
apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding 2,880 its original
use was to host party conferences, though through the
years it became better known as a concert venue - host-
ing acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967, to the
Chippendales in 2006.
Given that the building boasts over 3300 rooms there is
not a lot to see, unless youre into conference facilities, so
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor.
To get there youll need to buy a ticket for 20z, when you will
then be shepherded into an old-style lift, in which you will be
escorted by a lovely lift attendant who has probably been do-
ing the job since the building opened. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Admission for the viewing level is 20/15z. Group ticket for
more than 10 people 12z per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4,
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.
muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedicated to
the history of everything technological inside the equally
enormous Palace of Culture & Science, the only thing missing
here is a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody
with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms scat-
tered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a
contemptuous disregard for reason and logic, highlights
include a superbly stylish electric car for children made in
France in 1955, a cavalcade of impossible-looking motor-
bikes and aeroplanes, a room packed with 19th-century
musical boxes, a highly amusing 1951 MIG jet flight simula-
tor and a small exhibition celebrating space exploration
that could do with some serious updating. Decorated with
lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old
ladies, you wont learn a thing no matter how hard you try,
but its a strangely rewarding experience that really has to
be seen to be believed. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z. Guided tours
for up to 25 people 50z.
112
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw upris-
ing of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paint-
ings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
its a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment,
I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I
been faced with such destruction. Buried under twenty
million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled a shat-
tered shell; over hal f the population had been killed, and
85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to donate an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocaw, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; He who loves Wrocaw, loves Warsaw
as well pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
its barely hal f a century old Warsaws historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and i f youre Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isnt a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
theres not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue arent besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt IIIs son, Wadysaw
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Polands second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occur-
rence that was first reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that cant be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down witojaska to run a gauntlet of
buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys. Somewhere
amid the melee youll spot the Cathedral (see Churches), well
worth popping into, not least to check out the Baruczkowski
Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned for its mysterious
powers. Famed in particular for its crypt this neo-Gothic
masterpiece also contains artworks courtesy of Wit Stwosz,
as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered from a
remote-controlled German tank used to attack the cathedral
in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so its no
surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right next
door, a super renaissance building described in detail in our
Churches section.
Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but thats exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Towns subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although theres no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martins Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
dont miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gobiami (Under the pigeons - and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war,
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the
area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was
formerly home to a small square used primarily for execu-
tions. Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other
neer do wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have
OLD TOWN
Zygmunts Column A. Pagiska
113
Back outside take stock of one of Polands finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced.
Instead, today youll find a couple of water pumps dating from
the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best loved monument -
Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids form graces every bus,
tram and coat of arms youll find in the capital. Youre also
liable to run into a platoon of street artists. Most famous of
the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked little man who plays one
of Europes last music boxes with a parrot alongside him. But
for real comedy gold check out the mime artists who stand
in frozen posture - a few years back one such chap, dressed
as a monk, collapsed after a marathon booze binge leaving
his giant genitals exposed to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki. Not
only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, its also where
Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring eastward on the
eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia. From here walk
south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach the grassy bank that
offers sweeping views of the River Wisa. Known as Gnojna
Gra (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town
rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its
healing properties - this is where the stupid rich would come
to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure
for syphilis. Doesnt work, weve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walk-
ing tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this
small little square features a cracked cathedral bell recovered
from the war time debris, as well as what is touted as the
worlds narrowest house at number 20/22. Close by note
the covered walkway linking the cathedral to the castle. This
was built after a failed assassination attempt on Zygmunt
III. The King escaped unmolested, but the hapless hitman,
Michal Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by
four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe. And
on that happy note, consider your tour at an end.
OLD TOWN
their heads lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just
outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure
of Jan Kiliski (see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot
and a hero of the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising. The man who
gave his name to that Uprising, Tadeusz Kociuszko (the
same lad who would fight with distinction in the American
War of Independence, and would later have Australias high-
est peak named after him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This
wide street was formerly home to Warsaws fish market,
while the street running at a 90o angle, Wski Dunaj, was
the towns original Jewish Quarter back in medieval times.
Directly behind the wall, and onto Podwale, youll find one of
Warsaws most photographed landmarks; The Monument
to the Little Insurgent. Depicting a boy weighed down by a
machine gun and outsized helmet the monument honours
the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died in
the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and its not rare to find the
bronze statue surrounded by school groups on their day
out to the capital.
Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f youre
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where
to Eat). Resembli ng a typi cal European beer hall thi s
place is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and
cabbage practically forkli fted onto tables. At this stage
its fair to say youll probably be feeling like a python who
swallowed a pig, so waddle with great care and attention
to the Barbakan buil ding, making sure to avoi d those
annoying street dudes wholl try and l ead you to their
executioners block to have your pic snapped. Crowning
the set of defensive walls which once protected the city
is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund structure that dates
from 1548 and was apparently the work of a Venetian
architect. Today it serves as a bridge between Old and
New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenag-
ers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of the
interior are available, and well worth the look i f you dont
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the
moat that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent
addition to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back
in the 18th century when the defences became obsolete,
and the walls were incorporated into the dense tangle of
townhouses that mushroomed up around. Fragments of
these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937, and a
decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the
decision to restore and expose these ancient walls.
Its at this point youll find your nose pointing straight
down ul. Nowomi ej ska, a street revered for Warsaws
best ice cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town
Square (Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it cant
fail to leave you breathless. The burgher houses that line
the square are particularly striking, with many boasting
intricate details on the facades. Measuring 90 metres
by 73 this square is Warsaws defi ni ng hi ghli ght, and
presents unlimited ways to squander your money - tourist
junk stores, crappy restaurants populated with stuffed
animals, and even an Irish pub on the corner. One place
that is worth popping into, even i f its just to steal the
cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this
place into Warsaws top winery. Today the restaurant is
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as
something of a Whos Who of stage and screen. Culture
vulture or not, dont miss the chance to visit the Histori-
cal Museum of Warsaw (see Museums). Not only will you
come away with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the city,
but you might even end up trading blows and insults with
one of the curators who snoops in your wake.
ul. Dawna archway A. Pagiska
114
effort was, according to some sources anyhow, the longest
in Europe at the time. This essentially became Warsaws
link to the outside world, and the fact that the street was
the first in Warsaw to be paved reflects its importance.
Defending it from nasty invaders was imperative, and so it
was that the Mostowa Gate was built at the bottom. Known
as the Stara Prochownia (Old Gunpowder Store), the gate
originally constructed in 1581 was first used as a fortress.
Later it would function as a gunpowder store, before being
turned into a dank 17th century prison. Rebuilt after the war
the building has functioned as a theatre since 1965, and is
known for its edgy repertoire. While walking back to where
you came from do take time to check out the buildings lining
Mostowa. Take for example the building at number 2. Here
youll find a plaque honouring some teenage combatants
who died during the war nothing unusual in that, so youd
think, but look closer and youll see the tablet was added
during Stalins time, hence the Soviet stars in the corners.
Considering the Polish contribution to the war was all but
brushed over by the Kremlin this is quite a rarity. Some of
the houses can also be noted for their wall mosaics, and
they dont get much better than Zofia Kowalskas effort on
the corner of number 9.
As you reach t he top of
Mostowa youll find yoursel f
looking straight at the Church
of the Holy Spirit (Nowomiejska
23). This place has had bad
luck in spades. The original
wooden effort was burnt to a
cinder by the Swedes in 1655.
The locals couldnt afford a
new one, so King Kazimierz
donated the plot to the Pauline
monks of Czstochowa. They
rebuilt the church in baroque style following designs by Jozef
Piola, completing their work in 1711, and since then it has
become custom for locals to make an annual pilgrimage to
Czestochowa from this very spot. The stairs were added in
1845, and soon after so was Warsaws smallest house
right on the corner on Duga 1. The whole lot was destroyed
during the war, but rebuilt itsy bitsy house included. Today it
functions as a pokey kiosk, and you wont find a more historic
place to stock up on your smokes. Even better, look directly
opposite this house on Duga and cast your eyes two floors up
to see a super little wall painting of an owl peering from the wall.
Your advance down Freta will come to a standstill straight
away, namely at the Church of St. Jacek. Construction on this
paper white marvel started in the early 17th century, though
was disrupted by plague. In the true spirit of show business
the show had to go on, and the monks continued preaching
to the sore-ridden masses through holes in the wall. Today
the chancel includes fragments of 17th century tombstones
that were smashed during the wartime destruction.
Swiftly on, amid the galleries and antique stores youll find
Marie Curies birthplace at number 5. This has now been
turned into a museum to honour the lass who discovered
Radium and Polonium. If youre in the museum mood then
make time for the Asia and Paci fic Gallery at number 5,
an exotic diversion that will remind you just how chilly it is
outside. Continue moving forward until you come to the main
square, Rynek Nowego Miasta. This was originally mapped
out in 1408, and between 1680 and 1818 held a town hall
standing at the centre. This whole area was completely
destroyed during the war, and the rebuilding project was
put into the hands of Mieczysaw Kuma and his team of
budding architects.
NEW TOWN
Owl I Szulc
Church of the Visitation Sco
Whether you hate them or really hate them, you have to give
them their due; the mock executioners who stalk around
the Barbakan picking out victims do a pretty proficient job
of deterring people from walking any further. So maybe its
them, or maybe its because the name just doesnt promise
much, either way Warsaws New Town (Nowe Miasto) doesnt
see half the foot traffic of Old Town. Positively empty at times
this is one of Warsaws true unsung glories, and a delightful
afterthought i f youve just spent the afternoon spending
money on useless trinkets in Old Town to the south.
The New Town refers to the area just north of the Barbakan walls,
and just because the area makes use of the word new dont think
for a moment youre in for another drab, damp corner of Warsaw.
The settlement took root around the 15th century, essentially
catering for the overspill of people in Old Town. Unprotected
from invaders it was here that the poorer element took quarters,
namely the artisans, tradesmen and other miscellaneous classes
not wealthy enough to afford frilly clothes. This was directly
reflected in the buildings, many of which were only converted from
timber into stone as late as the 18th century. Known for its wide
streets, sprinkling of churches and raft of bars the New Town was
the scene of ferocious fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising,
and while the reconstruction work was not nearly as meticulous
or authentic as Old Town, it still makes for an interesting tour
for would be adventurers.
Your walk shoul d begin at the gates of the Barbakan,
itsel f rebuilt after the war using bricks spirited from the
city of Wroclaw. This can be found at the junction of ul.
Nowomiejska and ul. Podwale (B-1). Map refs A-1 and B-1 in
our guide covers everything mentioned in this tour. Avoid the
aforementioned hooded executioners by making a beeline
for ulica Mostowa to your right you could stop for quick
refreshment at the Pod Barbakanem Milk Bar, though itd
probably be wise to ponder why students have nicknamed
this place Cockroach first. Set on a cobbled hill Mostowa
once led to Warsaws first bridge. Built in 1573 the wooden
115
Flap the map around to get
your bearings, then head to
ul. Kocielna. An interesting
side trip is a quick exploration
of the street leading to the
square here youll find some
fantasti c Soci al i st Real i st
housing, complete with fine
i ntri caci es; check out the
surreal i st cl ock at number
6, or the fox above the doorway of number 25. Back onto
Kocielna, and the chance presents itself to really pamper
yourself. Warsaws best hotel, Le Regina, is at number 12,
and this is the ultimate Rolls Royce of boutique living. Things
hot up once more on reaching the crossroads of Kocielna
and Zakroczymska look at the bullet marks left on the
corner. Facing you is the Church of St Francis Seraph, and
though its always locked whenever we walk past weve
heard this is just the place to break into if you wish to view
a glass coffin containing the bony remains of St. Vitalis. It
also enters these pages on account of being the first church
to hold mass following the Nazi flight.
Turn up your collar and keep on walking, your exploration
hasnt finished just yet. At Zakroczymska 6 stands the
Saphiehw Palace, completed in 1746 to the sketches of
Jan Zygmunt Deybl. Baroque in some sections, rococo in
others, this pinkish looking palace served as residence for
the Lithuanian Sapieha family, before briefly operating as a
rather gay looking barracks. Maria Zachwatowiczowa was in
charge of the rebuilding, and her feminine touch is evident in
the busts balanced on top. Originally these depicted men,
now youll find some of them modelled on her daughters.
I f theres helicopters hovering in the air and lots of men
biting each other thats because theres a match down the
road. Polonia Warszawa play on Konwiktorska, and their
stadium merits attention for the fact that for nearly half a
decade the local side were unwittingly playing on a pitch with
several unexploded bombs buried beneath it; little wonder the
players seemed reluctant to run around. Follow Konwiktorska
to your right until you reach a tiny side street, ul. Edwarda
Fandamiskiego, named after one of the Ghetto fighters who
perished during the Jewish Uprising in 1943. Beyond the
graffiti and weeds youll soon come across ul. Wojtowska to
your left, and one of Warsaws most underrated pieces of
public art a fountain with a bear on top waggling his bum
in the air. What does it mean, weve no idea, but it sure looks
good. And with that your whistle stop tour comes to a close.
A bit of nifty map work takes you back to ul. Freta, and from
there the opportunity to reward yourself for being a diligent
tourist by drinking in one of the many hostelries.
NEW TOWN
Foxy I Szulc
Street stalls Sco
New Town sgraffito Sco
Reconstructed between 1952 and 1957 they followed the
original street plan, but unlike Old Town, not the actual style of
the buildings which once stood. Instead what youll find today
is an interesting collection of pseudo-townhouses, many of
which are decorated with murals and reliefs. Only the house on
the corner of Freta and the square looks like it should, with the
design directly swiped from a Canaletto recovered after the war.
The cast-iron well you see dates from the 19th century, and was
scavenged from the ruins and unveiled in 1958.
Looking down the far end of the square youll come across
the domed Church of St Kazimierz, and youll get an idea
of the restoration work involved when you move your frame
inside on the notice board, surrounded by ecclesiastical
gossip, youll see a picture of the wreck that stood here in
1944. Originally designed by Tylman van Gameren in 1688
this place served as a field hospital during the Uprising. A
direct hit on August 4, 1944, took the lives of four priests, 35
nuns and over 1,000 insurgents sheltering inside. Dug from
the debris were a charred wooden cross, 18th century organ
and bell, and the tombstone of Karolina Sobieska de Bouillon.
Maria Zachwatowiczowa took charge of the reconstruction,
basing her project on design blueprints dating from the 1930s.
From here follow your compass round the corner head down
the street directly to the right of St. Kaz to reach St. Bennos,
a cute gem of a church originally built to serve Warsaws
German community. Napoleon and his cronies expelled these
Redemptionists in 1808, and from then on the church served
as a civil building. That it was once a German place of worship
did nothing to save it from the Nazis, and it too found itself
being bombed to fragments. Reconstruction began in 1955,
and it was finally consecrated on June 22, 1958 the 150th
anniversary of the expulsion of the original monks. Carry on
down ul. Piesza and youll find yourself in front of Warsaws
finest church The Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary
(Przyrynek 6). Built in 1411 this red brick wonder has been
meticulously reconstructed, and its shaded courtyards and
gardens are among the most romantic in town; walk behind
it for views of Warsaws right bank and other Sleepless in
Seattle moments.
116
PRAGA
Warsaws eastern suburb, Praga, has long been regarded as
off-limits to Western visitors. Often painted as the bastion of
tower blocks and the criminal underclass, the area is actually
enjoying a snail-like renaissance, and as such offers visitors
a combination of strange sights and sounds. While it is an
enjoyable and recommended daytrip, do remember that this
is not Old Town; huge zoom lenses and video cameras will
attract unwanted attention, quite possibly worse.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Agnieszki
Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska. Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 -
1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over
2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. Shes
also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging
Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles
Mansons family of weirdos in what would turn out to be one
of the crimes of the century. Osieckas favourite caf, Maska,
stands round the corner from her monument.
Kapela Podwrkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriaska and ul. Kopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth-
capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the best
loved of the lot have finally been commemorated in brass on
the other side of the river. The pre-war Kapela Podwrkowa
are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the five piece
band have been honoured with a noisy monument sculpted
by Andrzej Renes. Send an SMS to tel. 7141 with the text KA-
PELA, then pick a number between 1 to 100; thats the signal
for hidden speakers to burst forth with pre-war and patriotic
classics made famous by these local heroes.
Koci us z kowcw Monument (Pomni k
Kociuszkowcw) G-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisa river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
w. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikoaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was
originally built for the large congregation of Russian souls
living around Jagielloska as well as people arriving from the
East at the nearby Wileska train station. Now belonging to
the independent Polish Autokephalic Orthodox Church, this
stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden
interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One
of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition cam-
paign in the 1920s, this rather unorthodox Orthodox church
comes with its own charming, football-mad priest. QOpen
11:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, intersection of Targowa and al. Solidarnoci. Dedi-
cated to the Soviet soldiers who died during the liberation of
Warsaw. Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the rusting
edifice is the citys least loved memorial and is often daubed
with graffiti. The Praga location is quite apt - this was where
the Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while Nazi troops
put down the Warsaw Uprising and then demolished the city.
Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral (Katedra
w. Michaa Archanioa i w. Floriana) G-1, ul.
Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 22 619 09 60, www.katedra-
floriana.wpraga.opoka.org.pl. In reaction to the building of
an Orthodox Church and a number of other structures on the
Tsars orders in the latter half of the 19th century, a certain
Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit
back with the construction of a huge new Catholic church.
Consecrated in 1901, a year before its final completion, this
vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in
September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of
ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring
a pair of steel-tipped, 75-metre steeples, the church, which
includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis
dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, the interior is rather
plain, although the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if
youre in the area. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Zbkowska Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated
than ulica Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the
Boho types who have materialized out of nothing. Originally
lined with timber frame houses a fierce blaze in 1868 led to
wooden lodgings replaced with tall tenements, all but one
surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with
Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for
wholesale demolition were seriously considered. It survived,
and today restoration work has seen many of buildings
returned to their former glory, streets repaved and galleries
opened. For some the very name Zbkowska is synonymous
with lively cafes filled with student revolutionaries. For others
this is the home of vodka. Located in a complex of historically-
listed buildings the Koneser Vodka Factory on Zbkowska
27/31 has been producing the spirit since 1897 and the
premises proves a supreme example of industrial architecture.
Allegedly the first Warsaw factory to use electricity the towers
and warehouses still feature intricate details that have been
preserved since the 19th century, and though official tours
have temporarily been taken off the menu its still well worth
dropping by to identify the source of that hangover. But its
not all booze, the grounds are also home to Luksfera (www.
luksfera.pl), a superb gallery that promotes black and white
photography. For something completely different visit Bazar
Ryckiego, a small market thats been alive since 1901.
Operating from dawn until afternoon this is just the place to
head to if youre looking for goods retrieved from the back end
of a lorry and, even, fake passports should you believe the lurid
reporting of British tabloid News of the World.
Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers
an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visi-
tors each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion
cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds
and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent
years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions
you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major
Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was
bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the
animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich,
eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan
abiski, became something of a hero; wounded during
the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.
The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00 Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 17/12z. Children under 3 years free.
to tu - Praskie Biuro Przewodnickie H-1, ul.
Zbkowska 36, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.
travel.pl. Info on the local area, bike hire (season only)
and guided tours in English and Polish. QOpen 09:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Info Point
117
CHOPIN
2010 saw the country toast Chopi n wi th champagne;
Polands greatest composer, and Warsaws favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopins birth and saw the city
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of
a fabulous new museum.
Chopin - Life & Times
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
theres a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but theres even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has
been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and thats his birthplace -
the town of elazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his father, a man whod
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as
a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The
young Frederic started learning piano at the age of four,
and by the age of eight had already performed at what
is now the Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious
tal ents applications for a state grant were repeatedl y
refused. Nevertheless, his childhood was happy, and the
gingerbread eating Frederic received gushing reviews in
local columns and press.
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first
13 years, before attending Warsaws Lyceum, and then
the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom
under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who
was wowed by Chopins musical mastery. He graduated from
the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet
Konstancha Gadkowska, and his unrequited love for her
inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A
keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in
1826 during which he visited Dresden, Krakw, Prague and
numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play
in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in
a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste
of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in re-
bellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining
the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to
write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart
diary record his torment: Oh God, do you exist? Or are you
yoursel f a Muscovite! Choosing to stay in exile Chopin
settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish
migrs, as well as upcoming composers and high society.
His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next
to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like the
uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and bard Adam
Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms at-
tracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin
enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series
of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed
him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a
trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets
reported him dead.
He wasnt, and the defining point of his li fe was to occur
two years later when he met the controversial author
George Sand (yes, thats a woman). His first impression is
recorded as being surprisingly acid: what an unpleasant
woman, he is known to have commented. Already secretly
engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopins li fe would
have evolved i f he had never seen Sand again is open to
speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine year
affair with this classic scarlet woman, with one stage of
their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned
monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani
in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is
commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and
now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and
secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged
just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally conten-
tious; some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others
a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe
the stories he carried a lock of Sands hair till the day he died
(though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an
urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on
his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being
buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaws
Koci witego Krzya. His funeral was as weird as his life,
delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether
to grant his wish and allow Mozarts Requiem to be sung at his
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his
music and legend survive to this day.
118
CHOPIN
What to see
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,
www.chopin.pl. The young Chopin hopped around three
separate residences in Warsaw, though only one will be of
use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father worked as a
tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work now halted
and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimierzowski Palace is
closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw University - a plaque
on the right wing commemorates his fleeting presence.
Instead pay a visit to Czapski Palace (formerly Krasiski
Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmiecie, a place Chopin him-
sel f described as his refuge. Reconstructed in 1960 and
opened to the public in 1969 none of the original furnishings
survived the war, though the period furniture on display has
been faithfully assembled to recreate his drawing room as
seen in an Antoni Kolberg painting made in 1832. Chopin
lived and entertained here from 1827 until his last day in
Poland, and today some of the antiques on display include
a writing desk owned by his elder sister and a pianoforte
dating from 1830, as well as paintings of his mother, sister
and tutor. Another pianoforte on show was once allegedly
used by Franz Liszt. Thats not the only famous connection
- poet Cyprian Norwid attended school in this building. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Admission
3/2z, Wed free.QLast entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Note that the museum will be closed from 20-27 June, 4-5
July and 12-13 July while students take their exams. Y
Holy Cross Church C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
3. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting
the final resting place of his heart (the rest of him being in
Paris famous Pre Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church
in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed
behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by
Leonardo Marconi.
azienki Park Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently
gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul. Belwederska
52), then the stamping ground of the Russian aristocracy.
It was here he played for the Tsars brother, Great Prince
Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by
Chopins skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be
played during military parades.
Elsewhere in azienki dont dare miss a visit to the art nou-
veau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden.
Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926,
the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As
part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by
German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an
unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smouldering
ruin declaring: I dont know who destroyed me, but I know
why; so I dont play the funeral march for your leader. A
plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be
rebuilt and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
An identical replica can be found at Japans Hamamatsu
Academy of Music.
Since 1959 live Chopin recitals have been held here from May
until September each Sunday at midday and 16:00. This is
deckchair and ice-cream paradise, and summer Warsaw at
its best -dont miss it.
Augsburg Evangelical Church of the Holy Trinity
(Koci w. Trjcy) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 1, tel.
(+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. In 1825 Chopin
once more performed for the Russians, this time for the Tsar
himself who in return presented Chopin with a diamond ring.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka
Chopina) C-3, ul. Oklnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62
51, www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated new
museum opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of
the Uprising Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin museum is
a jaw-dropping venue if youve had previous experience
of Polish museums.
Touted as one of the most hi-tech in Europe the museum
officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the
200th anniversary of one of Polands most famous
sons. Over 81 million zlots were siphoned from council
coffers to see this project realized, and the result is an
amazing space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy
and fitted out by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking in
four floors the museum features an interactive style and
takes in the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving no
detail out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair,
his school exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch
presented to the ten year old Frederic by an admiring
Italian singer and the passport he used to enter England.
So comprehensive is the collection it even features the
last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from
his death bed. Also, of course, are several paintings and
sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation of
his Paris drawing room and even a section on the women
who made the man.
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen
options, the museum allows visitors to adapt their trip
to their particular circumstances. Put simply those enter-
ing can choose exactly what they want to see, and how
much they want to know about it, with projectors and
speakers guiding them through the desired area. Further
still, micro-chipped tickets allow access to all manner of
audio surprises. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, thats worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogoski Palace the structure housing
the museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and
was originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the
past its been home to everything from a Napoleonic
military hospital to the riotous Morgans Pub, and its
catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden
Duck; a princess charmed by the devil before being trans-
formed into a beaked amphibian.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 22/13z, family ticket 62z, Tue free. Number
of visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve
tickets in advance online.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum
119
CHOPIN
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C- 3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: In honour
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church
as a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826.
Q Open 06:30-18:00, Sat 06:30-14:00, 15:00-18:00. No
visiting during mass please.
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, azienki
Park. Dont dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin
Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the
midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of
acclaimed sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part of the
Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German
busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown
patriot had placed a placard on the smoldering ruin declar-
ing: I dont know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I
dont play the funeral march for your leader. A plaster-cast
of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a
reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
Chopin Benches The good city of Warsaw has devised
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and thats by
way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at
key sites connected with his li fe. Made of cast iron and
polished black stone these benches, designed by Professor
Jerzy Porebski, feature a button which when pressed have
been designed to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin.
They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief
explanations in Polish and English as to the sites relevance to
Chopin. However, thats not all. These benches see Chopin go
techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code - take
a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed number
and youll be rewarded to free access to Chopin melodies,
facts, figures and photographs.
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu elazowa Wola 14,
tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka.pl. Set
in a modern manor house across from Chopins birthplace
is this classy venture by one of the countrys best known
celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is beautiful and
features a summer terrace and grill for those warmer months.
The food is Polish with some nice touches at prices that
might surprise those who have eaten in city centre Gessler
restaurants and makes for an excellent end to an interesting
day outside of busy Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (9-42z).
PTAUEGBSW
And the Rest
It didnt have a Starbucks and it didnt have Coffeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving caf
culture. This wasnt lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka
(see Restaurants), named after its proprietor Honorata
Zimerman, and a particular favourite stomping ground of the
composer. He was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting
the Brzezina Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every
day, as well as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on
Senatorska. Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia
and Trbacka formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and its
here that Chopin forwarded his luggage from before departing
Poland for what would prove to be his last time. Finally theres
Powzki Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Jzef
Elsner, his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.
elazowa Wola - Birthplace elazowa Wola 15, tel.
(+48) 46 863 33 00, www.nifc.pl. True enthusiasts are
going to want to make the pilgrimage to his place of birth, and
a worthwhile trip it most certainly is. So what to expect? Well,
although Chopin only spent the first year of his life here the
place has become a veritable shrine to the man, and youll find
it perpetually filled with foreign fans paying homage.
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but
even so elazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the
family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family
the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their
holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christ-
mas here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor
house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been
built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the
ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam
Towiaski, who resided there between 1859 and 1878,
was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a
place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex
to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work
was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by
a lack of funds these efforts didnt get much further than
the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple
of decades work didnt so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the related
surge in national pride and patriotism saw new efforts to
commemorate Chopins legacy. The building was granted
historic status and in 1928 the property was purchased by a
Sochaczew-based Chopin society. Restoration on the buildings
was initiated in 1930, as were plans to landscape the gardens,
and buoyed by donations the curators started amassing a
stack of Chopin memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano.
Disaster struck in the familiar form of the German army: the
outbreak of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and
the building was looted and damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a
sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore
it elazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the
centenary of his death in 1949.
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the
original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the
house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments
and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit
of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include
an early 19th century produced by Leszczyski of Warsaw,
portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierder-
mier style. However, the bit that most will find themselves
drawn to is the mothers room, the actual scene of Chopins
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a
reverential silence observed by all who visit.
Getting there:
elazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and while its not
hard to get to, visitors might be alarmed to find theres no
longer any direct buses from here to there (shame on you
Warsaw). Employ Plan B: take a train to Sochaczew (journey
time 40 minutes, tickets 12.60z - 16z depending on the
kind of train you take) and from there jump on bus number
six which terminates at Mokas after stopping at elazowa
Wola. This little adventure should take a further twenty
minutes.QOpen 09:00-18:00. Museum closed Mon (park
open). Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
7/4z for the park, 23/14z for park and museum.
elazowa Wola
120
WILANW
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war era
and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped from
the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand
a small part of this city and countrys history. The nations
capital has been at Warsaw since the late 16th century and
in its time had been the centre of the burgeoning Polish-
Lithuanian Commonwealth a union which lasted over 200
years and whose territory at one point stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States. With so much
of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experi-
ence what this must have been like more than at Wilanows
palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid, late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by the
family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began building
a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and
the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the
Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw was bought by
King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away from
Warsaw and he ordered a new Palace to be built. Originally
called Villa Nova (New Village), the name was soon polonised
to the one its known by today. A brick manor house was built
in 1680 expanding in two stages into a palace during the
years 1681-1696 under the supervision of Agostino Locci
to his own design. It is within the central part of the palace
where you will see the living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski
and his French queen consort, Marie (or Marysieka as she
was affectionately called by Sobieski and still is by Poles
today) in what is the original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned
to France and the palace through their sons became the
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop
the palace most notably the two wings, which were built in
the years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subse-
quent owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the
palace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a
royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of
August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the
palace became the property of a succession of the most
important Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lu-
bomirskis, Potockis and Branickis and each left their mark as
they expanded and developed the property. One of its most
enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in
the early 19th century, at a time when Poland as a country
ceased to exist because of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian
partition, made his collection of art and access to the royal
apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the public.
Keep an eye out for the words Cunctis patet ingressus on
the palace floor signifying that the palace and its collection
were open to all.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation and digitalisation program which is overseeing
conservation work in the royal apartments, archaeological
research of the area and which will result in the creation of
a 3D workshop in the museum, 3D digitalisation of certain
exhibits and a virtual museum called the Historical Royal
Residence.
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The citys
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By bus
From Old Town:
From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180. Journey
takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on
(A-4) ul. Chabiskiego or the 422 from directly outside
the LOT building opposite the station. Journey takes
about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi
At around 45z with a recommended company such
as Sawa (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanw
is something of a false economy, taking more or less
the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the
comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for
ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the
(A/B-4) main train station.
Getting there
121
WILANW
The Wilanw Palace Museum (Paac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22
842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at
Wilanw was opened in 1805 by the palaces owner at the
time, Stanisaw Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate
society and protect national identity and knowledge at a
time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was
maintained by his son August and over two hundred years
on these values are still key to the museums role.
The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion
of the Palaces interior, comes in two parts. Having bought
your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing
on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes.
It is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which
is available in a number of languages as well as English,
as there is very little description throughout the museum
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits of
the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish
coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your
thing you will find this very interesting although the lack
of description and in some cases even the name of the
people portrayed was rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the
residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan
vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered
during restoration work after the war, residential rooms,
an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock
and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. There
are English language cards available in most rooms which
give you a basic description of what to look for. The central
part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that
you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski
and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the
subsequent owners of the palace. There are some lavish
touches to be seen throughout the lower level and it may be
of interest that the leadership of communist Poland would
often use the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries.
Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had
to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de
Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple of
hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it
tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists
at the weekends so theres not really a best time to visit.
QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 20/15z. Audioguide 10z.
The Wilanw Palace Museum
Lake & Island Theres also a natural lake found behind the
Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing
boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water. A trip here will
reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconis strange, Gothic-
inspired pump room, and an adventure to the Parks island
reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery
Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and
who gave his life at Wilanw fighting the Austrians at the Battle
of Raszyn in 1809. Q Boat hire open from 10:30 till dusk. 6/4
z for a place in a gondola; 20z per boat per hour.
Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fan-
cies of its owners. The Parks present form dates from the
extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the
1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor
Gerard Cioek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of individual
gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque garden, a
Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped
park and the so called English-Chinese landscape park. The
nearby Orangery and its garden serves as a splendid venue for
outdoor classical music concerts during the summer season.
The park near the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens
and their associated architecture have been the subject of a
major revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque
garden a series of archaeological digs have discovered several
artefacts including ceramics dating from the 12th century.
Some of the work will continue through until the end of 2011
and this is due to affect the Neo-Renaissance garden. The aim
of the project, which is being carried out with assistance from
the EU, is to recreate the gardens from the time of King Jan III
Sobieski. The majority of the park will be accessible again to
the public from the end of June. Q Park open 09:00 till dusk.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. St. Kostki
Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.
postermuseum.pl. Housed inside the Palaces former
indoor riding area. Two large halls full of wonderful posters
from all over the world constitute, at over 55,000 pieces,
what is reportedly the largest poster collection anywhere.
The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters
rather than their documentary value and plays host to a
cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a contrast
to the historic palace and collection of paintings next door,
this makes for interesting additional place to visit while in
Wilanow. You can also find many of the best examples of
the posters have been reproduced into postcards which can
be bought from the museum shop. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Mon 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
10/7z, Mon free.
The Wilanw Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Ewa Jakubowska
122
WILANW
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanw Park. A tomb dedi cated to Stanisaw Kostka
Potocki and his wi fe Al eksandra (nee Lubomirska) Po-
tocka by their son - Al eksander. Desi gned in 1834 by
Henryk Marconi and buil t between 1834-1836 by Jakub
Tatarki ewi cz and Konstanty Hegl i n sandstone. The
Mausol eum is l ocated in park l eading to Wilanw Palace
and consists of a Neo-Gothi c canopy wi th lions hol ding
shiel ds bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski
fami l i es i n each corner. On the sarcophagus are the
fi gures of deceased and around the si des symbols of
their virtues and interests.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. Stanisawa Kostki-Po-
tockiego 22, tel. (+48) 22 885 71 71, www.galeriasd.
pl. This small collection of modern Polish art close to St.
Annes Church includes paintings and sculptures by many of
the countrys leading contemporary artists. Featuring some
truly impressive pieces of art, most of the work on display
is available for sale. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) ul. Kolegi-
acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard in
the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one until
well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new church
was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince August Adam
Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryskis grand-
daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska Potocka decorated the
church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of
which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son - August- and
his wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi.
The church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvel-
lous dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church
building you will find terracotta shrines marking the twelve
Stations of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt
under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. Q Open during
mass only.
Where to eat
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Kresowiak Al. Wilanowska 43c. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanw ul. Stanisawa Kostki - Potock-
iego 27. See Restaurants.
Villa Nuova ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23. See Res-
taurants.
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Micha
Korybut Winiowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski The Lion of Lechistan
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were cre-
ated baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieskis
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
Jan III Sobieski
124
JEWISH WARSAW
By the time Hi tl er chose to expand Germanys terri tori es
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German peopl e Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000, and was expanding at such a rate that, in the
words of hi stori an Norman Davi es, i t seemed to be
heading for an absolute maj ori ty. Nei ther pogroms nor
the occasional boycott on Jewish businesses deterred
Jews from settling in the Polish capi tal and onl y New
York coul d boast a larger Jewish communi ty. Yet wi thin
si x years of occupation Warsaws thri ving Jewish scene
was al l but wi ped from the map, over 90% peri shi ng
ei ther in the Ghetto that woul d imprison them or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
To trace Warsaws Jewish history one must track back to
the 14th century. Although anti-semitism was by no means
rare Poland was seen as a relative safe haven by many
Jews, and it continued to draw in settlers forced into flight
by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war
years the Jewish population had made signi ficant contribu-
tions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland,
a contribution that would eventually be extinguished by
the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis, and that today
exists only in memory. When Warsaw fell following a brief
yet brutal siege the citys ancient Jewish population were
damned to destruction.
Originally the Nazis had earmarked the eastern suburb
of Grochw to serve as a ghetto, but bureaucratic and
logistical di fficulties meant that by 1940 the easy option
was used, and Jews were forcibly penned into an area that
already housed the majority of the citys Jews. On March
27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the
Nazis whims was ordered to build a wall around the area,
and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed
to the citys Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area
was to be punished by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and
enclosing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets the area was
carved into a small and big ghetto, the two linked by a
wooden bridge standing over ul. Chodna (D-1). Today a
small memorial wall opposite caf Chodna 25 marks this
spot. From the beginning conditions were harsh; recovered
Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted a
food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed sub-human were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported
by a smuggling network ran ri fe, some 80% of the food in
the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not
enough and as the noose tightened starvation became the
principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way, their
bodies often left to rot in the streets and gutters.
Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Rei ch
the Warsaw one was the largest, and also the deadli est.
At i ts zeni th the approximatel y 380,000 peopl e found
themsel ves squashed into the ghetto, wi th an average
of ei ght peopl e to a room. Yet ami d this sea of suf fering
a remarkabl e social scene fl ourished, as proved by the
meti culous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel blum.
Al though murdered by the Nazis in 1944 after his hi ding
pl ace was di scovered Ri ngel bl um, an i ntell ectual and
social acti vist, kept volumes of notes documenting the
day-to-day li fe of ghetto inhabi tants. Ten metal boxes of
his archi ves were discovered in the ruins of the ci ty in
1946, and are today regarded as the defini ti ve resource
of this period in Jewish history. I t is from his painstak-
ing notes we l earn of the soup ki tchens and chari ti es
that existed, of the musi cal concerts and cabarets and
the fi fty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Germans re-ignited
their interest in the total annihilation of the Jews. The Wansee
Conference of January 1942 rubber stamped plans for the
final solution to the Jewish question and on July 22 the first
deportations to death camps had began. Over the next few
weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area
known as Umschlagplatz, from which they were loaded into
cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers. A year
later a new action to thin the ghetto was launched, and by April
1943 a final push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto
was put into swing. For too long the Jews had been limited
to passive resistance, now with rumours circulating about
death camps a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to
the full weight of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj
Anielewicz the Jewish Fighting Organization (OB) launched
what would be recorded as the Ghetto Uprising on April 19,
1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued
their dogged resistance against elite German and Ukrainian
forces, but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive
Bombers it was to be a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-
street, house-to-house battles ensued, insurgents often burnt
out of their boltholes with flamethrowers and gas. On May 8
German forces surrounded the principal command post of the
rebels on ul. Mia 18. Rather than face capture Anielewicz and
his cabal opted for mass suicide, a fate also chosen by Szmul
Zygielblum, a Jewish member of the Polish Government-in-exile
based in London. Addressing allied leaders in his final note
Zygielblum rounded on their perceived indifference towards
the fate of Polands Jews before taking his own life. By May
16 the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen
Stroop moved to announce in his report to his superiors The
former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.
With the fighting over the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and
its inmates either sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka
(ul. Gsia), a small concentration camp where their duties
would involve clearing the rubble and ruins that formerly con-
stituted the ghetto. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the citys
hollowed out Jewish culture.
A. Paginska
125
JEWISH WARSAW
Heroes in horror
Sometimes it takes a tragedy to create a hero; this is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
rife in pre-war Poland, age old mistrust and urban legend
combining to instil a them and us divide between Jews and
gentiles in fact, so clear was this divide that the inter-war
years saw seated segregation in such grand institutions as
the local university. Under Nazi occupation collaboration
and cooperation with respect to the Jewish policy was
commonplace denouncing Jews and revealing hiding places
bringing with it considerable financial reward. Worse still, there
were several instances of Poles actively taking part in pogroms
and Jew hunts, the most notorious occurring in the town of
Jedwabne in 1941. It was here, on the tenth of July, a mob of
Poles rounded up anything up to 400 Jews, assembling them
in the square while the Nazis looked on. Forcing them to pluck
grass while singing songs was just a prelude to the horror that
followed, and the Jews found themselves marched to a barn
which was subsequently torched. Its a shameful episode
in Polish history, and one immortalized in Jan Gross book
Neighbours. Even after the war, and with the full story of the
Holocaust exposed, anti-Semitism continued to plague the
country, a fact best illustrated by the Kielce Pogrom a 1946
action in which a band of locals killed 42 Jews.
Nevertheless, such events should be offset by another untold
story, that of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted.
Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for
sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced whole families often shot for
harbouring Jews. Even so, it is estimated that over three million
Poles actively helped Jews to survive, and over 6,000 Poles have
been recognized by Yad Vashem as being Righteous among
Nations more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow a doctor called Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate
of Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately
8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use
having injected the towns Jews with a benign form of typhus,
he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was at large.
Terri fied that it would spread, the Nazis quarantined the
town and left it to its own devices. Known as the Polish
Schindler, Laskowski saved twelve ghetto communities in
this crafty manner. I was not able to fight with a gun or a
sword, Laskowski spoke later, But I was able to find a way to
scare the Germans. He later emigrated to America and died
in 2006, his actions honoured in both the States and Poland.
In Krakow, a gentile pharmacist called Tadeusz Pankiewicz
was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto,
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and
vaccines were distributed for free, and his pharmacy now
a museum came to double as a centre of underground
activity. Regarded a hero, Pankiewiczs role in the Holocaust
is remembered in Thomas Kenneallys epic, Schindlers List.
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over
2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler
had a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews,
and was suspended for three years from Warsaw University
following her vociferous opposition to segregated benches.
Her father died after contracting typhus from Jewish patients
in his care, but Sendler continued his mission and was active
in the underground the moment war broke out.
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to
help Jewish families, and later headed the childrens section
of Zegota a secret organization that was a Council to Aid
Jews. Using the fierce looking court building on Solidarnosci
as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom, she smuggled
countless children inside parcels and boxes. The children were
then sent to live in convents and rectories, but not before she
recorded their real identities in a glass jar she kept buried at
home. Her actions aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and
in 1943 she was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A
bribe from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left
unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs broken.
She was officially declared dead by the Germans, and spent
the rest of the war in hiding.
But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted by the
communist authorities on account of her wartime relations with
the exiled government, and faced constant harassment in the
post-war years. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising
her for her courage, and later that year she was awarded the
Order of the White Eagle Polands highest civilian decoration.
She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate; in
July, 2010, her grave was vandalized with the words Jews Out.
Finally, Jan Karski, is remembered in the history books as
the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz, 1914,
Karski was the son of a factory owner and the youngest
of eight children. Gifted with a photographic memory and
a fluent command of foreign languages he soon came to
the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing
prestigious posts in London and Paris. With Europe gearing
up for war Karski joined the horse artillery, and his unit found
itself shunted across Poland as the nation made a desperate
bid to defend its borders from Nazi and Soviet invasion.
Captured by the Red Army Karski avoided death in the forests of
Katyn when his Soviet captors handed him over to the Germans
in an exchange of prisoners. He escaped from a train transporting
him to a POW camp, and then headed to Warsaw where he made
contact with the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors decided to employ him as a
courier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in
order to swap information with other allied nations.
One such foray onto foreign soil saw him captured by the
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra mountains. He
slit his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and found
himself sectioned in a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz.
Determined not to lose their star courier a crack team of Polish
troops broke him out and Karski resumed his duties after a
period of recovery. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring
mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski Prime Minister of Polands
government-in-exile in London, the purpose being to reveal the
extent of German atrocities taking place in occupied Poland.
To gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw Ghetto,
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski
later found himself questioning his own memory, and decided a
second visit was in order to convince himself that what he had
seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he
infiltrated a transit camp in Izbica, and was witness to random
brutalities, as well as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the
gas chambers. He successfully made it to England via Germany,
France and Spain, and was granted an audience with foreign
secretary Antony Eden, as well as Sikorski and the leader of
the Jewish Bun maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears.
In the following decades his attempt to stop the holocaust
was allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention
with the release of the 1978 epic film, Shoah. He died in 2000,
eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a holocaust
survivor, had committed suicide.
126
JEWISH WARSAW
What to see
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz ydowski) D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.
beisolam.jewish.org.pl. In spite of sporadic disrepair and
neglect, this remains a beautiful and poignant place to visit.
The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently
houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here
are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language
Esperanto. Q Open 10:00-17:00, Fri 09:00-13:00, Sun
09:00-16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8z.
Jewish Historical Institute (ydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews, this amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish li fe in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation of the Jews in Poland during WWII and beyond.
As well as an excellent bookshop, the institutes museum,
opened in 1948, features a large interactive display in the
entrance hall that allows its users to find out about Jewish
li fe in any part of the country, the extraordinary Warsaw
Ghetto 1940-1943 exhi bi ti on, reli gi ous treasures, an
archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the
collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by
Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the Ger-
man army and whose almost snapshot-style photographs
speak volumes about the place and the time. Essential
visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 60 minutes before
closing. Admission 10/5z. Y
Monument to the
Gh e t t o He r o e s
(Pomnik Bohaterw
Getta) A- 1, ul. Za-
menhofa. Designed by
Natan Rappaport, the
monument pays tri b-
ute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943.
Found between (E-1) ul.
Anielewicza, Zamenho-
fa, Lewartowskiego and
Karmelicka it here that
the heaviest fighting took
place. In an ironic quirk,
the stone cladding on the
monument was originally
ordered from Sweden by
Hitler for a victory arch.
N o y k S y n a -
gogue (Synagoga
Noykw) E- 3, ul .
Twarda 6, tel. (+48)
502 40 08 49, www.
warszawa.jewish.org.
pl. Built between 1898
and 1902 in a neo-Ro-
manesque st yl e, thi s
was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages
of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now
open for worship. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services.
Groups of more than ten should reserve in advance. Admis-
sion 6z.
Traces of the Ghetto Following the Ghetto Uprising
the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you
duck into the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see
a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a com-
memorative plaque. Possibly the only street that survived
the maelstrom of 1943 is the depressing ul. Prna (B-3).
The tenement houses were built between 1880 and 1900
and were once home to Warsaws thriving Jewish community.
Once a bustling street full of traders and hardware stores it
now lies forlorn and neglected; a haunting epitaph to the past.
Somewhat impressively, however, the local government have
decided to honour Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing
a ghetto trail. Developed with the help of the Jewish Histori-
cal Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of
21 dual language information boards positioned in places of
particular interest - eg, the spot where a wooden bridge once
connected the small Ghetto with the big Ghetto. To follow
the trail pick up a map from the Jewish Historical Institute
(ul. Tomackie 3/5).
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were l oaded on cattl e wagons
bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of
the deportations lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7.
Lying between Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the
Ghetto Heroes lies the legendary monument labelled Mia
18 (note: this is not the address where you can find the
monument). Essentially no more than a symbolic grassy
knoll, it marks the spot from where the Ghetto Uprising
was directed.
Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta.
On December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the
worl d of German Chancellor Will y Brandt knel t in pensi ve
apol ogy in front of Warsaws Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes. Popularl y known as the kni efall the spontane-
ous gesture was to become a symbol of reconciliation
between east and west, wi th Brandt later confessing,
under the wei ght of German history, and carrying the
burden of the millions who were murdered, I di d what
peopl e do when words fai l them. A monument com-
memorati ng hi s l andmark act was unveil ed 30 years
later in the north east corner of the park that houses
the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made of bri ck, and
featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria Czechowska
Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled by a delegation
that included Brandts widow, Danzig-born author Gunter
Grass, Chancell or Gerhard Schroeder and Polish Prime
Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in whi ch i t is l ocated
has also since been named in honour of Brandt.
Decades of apathy and lack of funds have meant
that until now Warsaw has had li ttl e wi th which to
commemorate its Jewish heritage. That looks set to
change with the opening of the Museum of the History
of Polish Jews, a state-of-the-art multimedia exhibit
that will chronicle the 1,000 year presence of Jews in
Poland. Opening was initially planned for 2008, now
they reckon on 2012, though this being Poland it helps
to add a couple of years onto any construction project.
Take a look at what you can expect when the museum
finally takes root at the English language website found
at www.jewishmuseum.org.pl.
Coming soon?
127
TREBLINKA
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaws wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
west of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankinds roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed who will be happy to tailor a visit for
you. Alternatively, hire a six person minibus for 250z - call
604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II,
Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941,
and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II, the
death camp, opened the following year, receiving its first human
cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the sole purpose of
murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring 400 by 600 metres,
and surrounded with barbed wire fences and watchtowers, the
camp was carefully blended into the heavily wooded landscape
in an effort to mask its existence. Consisting of a barracks, an
armoury and storage areas, the camp also had a fenced off liv-
ing area housing 1,000 Jews employed to clear bodies, hammer
out teeth and shave hair. It was also home to the reception area,
where cattle wagons loaded with Jews would screech to a halt.
Built to resemble a legitimate train station, it was decorated with
clocks, timetables, posters and even an infirmary replete with a
Red Cross banner. In actual fact the infirmary was no more than
a sinister faade to an execution pit, used to murder prisoners
too weak to march to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the
shower block. It was here that prisoners were ushered into
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were
cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift
counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners
succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard death
camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled, reforested
and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled on the adjacent
farmland. Although it is impossible to place an accurate
figure on the number of people slaughtered, conservative
estimates suggest that anything from 700,000 to 900,000
people were murdered during the camps existence. Of the
number of Jews who passed through its gates it is thought
that fewer than 100 lived to see the end of the war.
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut, before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms visi-
tors will find a series of items recovered from the site - torah
scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well as a few
period photographs illustrating life at the camp. However,
the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate work which
really brings the grounds to life - details here include a zoo
built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney style stone tower
and the neatly trimmed flower beds past which Jews would
have filed on their way to the gas chambers. Its a fascinating
work, and one which provides plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the route
trains from Warsaw would have followed before finally termi-
nating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews crammed inside
the cattle wagons this represented the last stop in their
persecution. Then, directly up ahead, comes the climax of the
camp - marking the execution grounds lie hundreds of jagged
memorial stones, each one inscribed with the name of a lost
community. Its among these - to the left of your approach -
youll find the only stone dedicated to a person. That man is
Janusz Korczak, a pedagogue and author who famously turned
down safe passage from the ghetto in order to stay with the
orphaned children entrusted in his care. His most famous work
is the childrens tale King Matt the First (Krl Maciu Pier-
wszy), the adventure story of a young king. As well as telling
the story of how the young king deals with the challenges of
power in a bygone age, it is also a thinly veiled representation
of historical events in Poland and describes many of the social
reforms the young king introduces, many targeting children
and many of which Korczak himself introduced into his own
orphanage. While some of the language might be considered
politically incorrect 90 years on it is a fascinating book and
one that children today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: Never Again. Its an eerie experi-
ence, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced
into back breaking work. In the field further on, concrete
flooring and some foundations mark the outline of former
prisoner barracks, while a number of crosses mark what was
once the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka
is a must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern
history - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet
even without these this place has a high impact factor which
will leave visitors silent.
Museum of Struggle and Martyrdom in Treblinka
(Muzeum Walki i Mczestwa w Treblince) Tre-
blinka, Kosw Lacki, tel. (+48) 25 781 16 58, www.
muzeum-treblinka.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 4z.
128
the Poles continued the fight on two fronts, with segments of
Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio to let the outside
world know that Warsaw was still Polish. However the human
cost was starting to mount; the merciless bombardment
had claimed the lives of over 50,000 Varsovians, the Royal
Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of food, power and water had
reached critical levels. With Allied aid not forthcoming, and a
humanitarian disaster looming large, the capital finally raised
the white flag on September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics
into perspective, Paris, defended by the largest standing
army in the world, took just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. The Fuhrers verdict on
the Poles is damning, wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitlers
stopover, More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert
chess player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up a poster
for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not
be sufficient to manufacture the paper, he is said to have
bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both brutal and
bloody, and it was under his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer
was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post he would hold
right until 1945. Fischer was more bureaucrat than butcher,
yet nonetheless it was under his authority that Warsaw
became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and its estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasnt so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
WARSAW UPRISING
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than the pres-
ent. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-
exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Polands
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
In the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt to
help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved largely
empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with blind rage
to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an
epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the
full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of Warsaws
history was about to be written.
Outbreak of War
At 4.45am, September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger-
man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known
as the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). Object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombard-
ment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bomb-
ers swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the worlds first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the Germans losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days later
on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from the
east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet Molotov-
Ribbentrop pact.Even so, with the odds stacked against them
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
129
WARSAW UPRISING
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europes largest resistance move-
ment. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide mili-
tary assault on the Nazis. By July, 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischers
appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broad-
casts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce-
ment declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, Warschau ist kalm. Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained sev-
eral concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disas-
ter - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did
the airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his tor-
por, screaming for no prisoners to be taken, and every
inhabitant to be shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic sel f-assurance.
Air drops were vital i f the rising was to succeed, though
hopes on these were scuppered with Stalins refusal to
allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet held airports.
Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian
town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved
high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inac-
curate - one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out
of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,
rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the
go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross
the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a
debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made
the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single
attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was
on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaws
old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become unten-
abl e, and a daring escape route was hatched through
the sewers running under the ci ty. The Germans were
now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts
of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour.
Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre
every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarm-
ing rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early
September, though it wasnt till the end of the month - by
which time all hope had been exhausted - that they took
a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were
forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they
had taken on the Reich. The battle is finished, wrote a
eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. From
the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and
misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new
Poland will arise - free.
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
130
WARSAW UPRISING
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, de-
feated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian
lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles
would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler was ecstatic;
with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze Warsaw could
finally be realized. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though
around 2,000 are believed to have seen in liberation by hiding
in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what
was left of the city. No stone can remain standing, warned
Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as
the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were
numbered according to their importance to Polish culture
before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less
historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was
spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. I have seen many
towns destroyed, exclaimed General Eisenhower after the
war, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.
Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around
fifty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost much
more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very
foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those
veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and
disdain by the newl y installed communist government,
others were persecuted for perceived western sympathies.
Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the
Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising
condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the
Polish government-in-exile. Today, finally, the event that has
come to define the spirit of Warsaw, has been awarded the
recognition it deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
What to see
Berling Statue H-3, Wa Miedzeszyski. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the
vandals, and its not uncommon to see Berlings hands
daubed with blood red paint. Thats on account of Berlings
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalins forces, and Berlings
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles with a great many Poles.
Bielanski Bank B-2, ul. Bielaska 10.
Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than
the hulking shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history.
The site was originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f
demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the
Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz
Benois, a rector of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg,
construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four
years. Within another four years the Russians had left, the
collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back
east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over
the building, first employing it as the National Treasury,
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during
the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.
Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum
legal wrangles saw that idea bite the dust. Now Belgian
property developer Ghelamco plan to redevelop the site as
an office complex, and although the former bank is listed
as a historic building quite how much of it will survive the
whims of the developers remains open to question. In the
meantime the sight of window frames hanging from bullet
battered walls make for particularly haunting viewing.
Execution Sites The fall of communism brought with
it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising, which had
hitherto been largely erased from Polish history by anti-
nationalist communist censors. Now memorial plaques and
tablets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be
in Polish only, it doesnt take long to get the hang on them;
on the whole theyll display the date and number of people
executed by the Nazis.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pomnik
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl. Krasiskich. It
was only with the regime close to collapse that this uncon-
ventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled.
Completed in 1989, and designed by Wincent Kucma, it
depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction
retreating into the sewers.
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powsta-
nia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Polands best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits its a museum thats guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story
of the Uprising (provided
they dont make any wrong turns, alas, a common mis-
take). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your
tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine
guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different
halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk
through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features
film detailing the first month of battle, before which
visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final
sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet
state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant
display entitled Death of the City; take time to watch the
black and white before and after
shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systemati-
cally obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the
exit check out the films playing in the 110 seat cinema
which now include a silence inducing 5 minute 6 sec
3-D aerial film which took 2 years to make and used
old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture
of the desolation of liberated Warsaw in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A view-
ing platform and peace garden wrap up this high impact
experience QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10/7z
(children under 7 free). Audio guides for 10z per person.
Sun free. Film costs 2z per person. Y
Uprising Museum
131
Skaryszewski Park H-2, . While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on War-
saws east bank, is a memorial to commemorate these airmen.
It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944, killing
all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor, Henry
Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today it is
the sight for British Embassys annual Remembrance service.
In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented with a
recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Maego
Powstaca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authori-
ties continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up-
rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan; designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz, and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ci
Ludnoci Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powsta-
nia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarnoci. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Oskar Dirlewanger, a despicable man with
a history of sex crimes against minors, and Heinz Reinfarth,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to halt
when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians be
sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarnoci.
WARSAW UPRISING
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red and
white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign of the in-
surgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising should not be
underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910 this weird tower
like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a telecommunications
centre, a function it continued to serve under the Nazis. Heavily
defended by bunkers and guard posts it was besieged for twenty
two days by the Kilinski battalion of the Home Army before finally
surrendering on the 22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek
handed stewardship of the building to a combatants association,
and today, among numerous other functions, the ground floors
are home to the recommended Na Zielnej restaurant.
Prudential Tower F-2, ul. witokrzyska. The first build-
ing in Warsaw to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000
bricks Warsaws first true skyscraper became a major point
of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning
of a Polish flag on Polands tallest structure not lost on the
insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was
gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After
the war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades
operated as the Hotel Warszawa. Finally closed in 2003,
this hulk of a building stood derelict for many years before
being taken over by the Likus Group (they of Hotel Monopol
in Wroclawfame) who are redeveloping it into a luxury hotel
with rooftop restaurant in time for 2012.
Ruins of the Rising Between 1939 and 1944 over 84
percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city
centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean
rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred wall
on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance
round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruc-
tion. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Walicw,
featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwaa Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza. De-
signed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those, who with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
132
LEISURE
Flying
Aeroklub Polski ul. 17 Stycznia 39, tel. (+48) 22 826
76 70, www.aeroklubpolski.pl. Parachute jumps, hot air
balloons, hand-gliding and even flying lessons. Prices nego-
tiable. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Go-carting
Imola ul. Puawska 33, Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 757 08
23, www.imola.pl. Q Open 15:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. 35-40z per 8min.
Kart Arena Szymanw 9m, Baniocha, tel. (+48) 22
750 16 52, www.kartarena.pl. Warsaws latest go-kart
track, possibly its best. On offer: Evo 5 Rimo karts, which
are apparently quite good. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri 13:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
Golf
First Warsaw Golf and Country Club ul. Golfowa 44,
Jabonna, tel. (+48) 22 782 45 55, www.firstwarsaw-
golf.com. Golf course open only outside of winter. There is
an all-year driving range with 36 balls costing 15zl. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00.
Golf Park Driving Range ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl.
Driving range, putting green, mini gol f and a sand bun-
ker. 25z gets you 50 balls on the driving range. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00.
Golf Park Jzefw ul. Telimeny 1, Jzefw, tel. (+48)
22 778 30 90, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Opened in 2007
Golf Swing features a six hole course, flood lit driving range,
golf classes and club rental. The course is open outside of
winter while the driving range is open all year round with
45 balls costing 20zl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00.
Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw), tel. (+48)
22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00.
Horse riding
Anka Rancho Horse Riding ul. Wawrzyniecka 25,
Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 61, www.ankarancho.
pl. Q Open 15:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-12:00, 15:00-
18:00. Closed Mon. Phone reservation two days in advance.
One hour horse riding 50z.
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilcze-
niec) ul. Kocielna Droga 10, omianki, tel. (+48)
22 751 97 77, www.wilczeniec.pl. English speaking
instruction also available. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. 40z for 40 minutes.
Indoor playgrounds
Kamelot ul. Grczewska 124 (first floor of Wola Park),
tel. (+48) 22 533 41 09, www.kolorado.com.pl. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00. Admission 21-29z.
Kolorado Jelonki Playgrounds ul. Konarskiego 88
(Wola), tel. (+48) 22 666 02 60, www.kolorado.com.
pl. Fifty metres of slides, 70,000 balls in the ball pond, thirty
metres of climbing lines, and more. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Admission 11-29z, adults free of charge.
Bowling
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920
19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.pl. Two
floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150z per lane per
hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
Atomica Bowling Center ul. Wooska 12 (Galeria
Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 541 38 05, www.kregielnia.
pl. Multi-purpose leisure centre with 25 bowling lanes, 8 pool
tables, a couple of bars, internet cafe and, whatever they may
be, a pro-shop and power station. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Price for one hour game 40-120z.
Hulakula Bowling Alley C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Univer-
sity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00
- 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 30-120 z
per hour. Shoes included.
Climbing
W Pionie E-4, ul. Nowowiejska 37 b, tel. (+48) 609 62
24 67, www.wpionie.pl. An 11 metre climbing wall with
three di fferent routes to the top located in the centre of
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wed 12:00 - 21:00,
Thu 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:30 - 22:00. 15z for unlimited
time with lessons available with an English speaking in-
structor for 50z.
Entertainment centres
Hokus Pokus ul. Powstacw l ski ch 126A
(Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42,
www.hpokus.pl. I ncl udes a Chata Maolata (ki ds
indoor playground) Open 12:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-
21:00, Admissi on 10-12z per hr, 18-22z per day) as
well as a bowling all ey, a bar wi th pool tabl es and darts
and a vi deo games area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 01:00.
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Uni-
versity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,
climbing wall and indoor playground for children. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Fitness Clubs & Gyms
Di amond Pi l ates Studi o ul . Powsi ska 106
(entrance f rom ul.Go kowska near Sadyba Best
Mall; Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 331 44 95, www.
diamondstudio.pl. 65z per class, or 180z for private
English-language classes. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Leisure Club C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44
(Le Mridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 05,
www.warsaw.lemeridien.com. Luxury fitness and swim-
ming facilities in the Bristol Hotel. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Fri
06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Admission 50-70z,
children 30z.
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 78, www.purepoland.
com. Third floor of Zote Tarasy, with facilties including
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
133
LEISURE
Martial arts
Red Tiger A-3, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 624 79 70,
www.redtiger.com.pl. Kung Fu, Tai Chi, self-defence and
kick boxing. English instructors also available. QOpen 17:00
- 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Outdoor playgrounds
Playground F-6, ul. Odyca 6. A huge complex of climb-
ers, slides, sandpits, swings and more unusual contrap-
tions to keep both very small and not so small kids busy.
Parents drink coffees at the cafe on the grounds. Keep
your eyes open for kiddie events. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Admission free.
Playground in azienki Park G-5, Al. Ujazdowskie.
Playground in Saski Garden B-3, Pl. Pisudskiego.
Near ul. Krlewska.
Paintball
Paintballs Club , tel. (+48) 602 66 92 20, www.
paintballs-club.pl. A minimum of fifteen people in a group
generally required. Q 70z per person, equipment plus
300 shells.
Silt Paintball , tel. (+48) 503 41 41 75, www.paint-
ball.silt.pl. A minimum of ten people in a group generally
required so call in advance. Q 45z per person, equipment
plus 100 shells.
Quads
Adrenal i n Factor y Quad Rental (Fabr yka
Adrenaliny) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 13,
tel. (+48) 22 424 31 00, www.fabrykaadrenaliny.pl.
Quads and ATVs. Two pieces of ID and a credit card are
needed. I f you want to rent a vehicle for the whole day, a
700-1500z deposit is required. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Mr. Quad ul. Tysiclecia 59a, Otwock, tel. (+48) 22
788 45 14, www.mrquad.pl. Q Open by prior arrange-
ment. 10 quads, 450-550z per 24hrs per one quad.
Shooting
Shoot i ng Cl ub (ZKS) ul . Mar ymoncka 42
(Bi el any), tel . (+48) 22 834 41 08, www. zks.
waw.pl. A shooti ng range i n Bi el any where you can
hi re guns (45- 80z) and an Engl i sh-speaki ng i nstruc-
tor can be arranged i f you contact them i n advance.
I f you are carr yi ng your own weapon (??) the pri ce
drops to 20-25z. QOpen 09: 00 - 19: 00, Mon, Sat,
Sun 09: 00 - 17: 00.
Squash
Panorama Country Cl ub ul . Romantyczna 3
(Wawer), tel. (+48) 696 69 72 02, www.panorama-
club.pl. Two squash courts and outdoor tennis courts.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Admission
23 - 39z per hour.
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl.
Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 40-65z.
134
LEISURE
EXCLUSIVE DAY SPA IN
THE HEART OF WARSAW
OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF
BEAUTY AND BODY THERAPIES
INCLUDING
MASSAGE THERAPY
FACIAL
EPILFREE - PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
MANICURE
THERAPEUTIC PEDICURE
FOR WOMEN AND MEN
CENTRUM LIM
(Behind the MARRIOTT Hotel)
level -1, shop 20
(In the direction of the Central Station)
tel + 48/22/630 64 70
mobile. 883 529 791
www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl
OPENING HOURS:
Monday to Friday 8.30-20.30
Saturday 9.00-17.00
Spa & Beauty
Celebrity Beauty & Spa A-3, Rondo ONZ 1, tel. (+48)
22 335 77 44, www.celebrity.com.pl. 400m2 right in the
city centre offering a vast number of treatments from head
to toe. High standards and moderate prices guaranteed.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Club Oasis G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 851
05 63, www.cluboasis.pl. Spa, fitness, swimming pool,
wet and dry sauna as well as beauty treatments. One day
pass: 100z. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Kosmetyczny Instytut Dr Irena Eris A-3, ul. Jana Pawa
II 20, tel. (+48) 22 586 91 00, www.DrIrenaEris.com/
Instytut. Body and facial beauty treatments plus massages.
Prices from 110z. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.
Le Spa C-4, ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. (+48) 22 622 94
28, www.lespa.pl. This is an authorized Guerlain beauty
parlour. In addition to spa and beauty treatments they have
emergency services: the last minute treatment is a facial
and make up job fixed within an hour, or you can top up your
tan in less than an hour with the before party package.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
Oasis Beauty Day SPA B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 64 70, www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl. A
range of beauty and spa treatments, including therapeutic
massage and therapeutic pedicure located underneath the
Marriott in the LIM centre shopping passage. Reach it by
heading into the shopping area of the Marriott/LOT build-
ing and taking the escalator to the -1 level. QOpen 08:30
- 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
RiverView Wellness Centre A- 4, ul. Emilii Plater
49 (InterContinental), tel. (+48) 22 328 86 40, www.
riverview.com.pl. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00
- 21:00. Admission 100-150z.
Swimming
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wsplna 4 (Wesoa), tel.
(+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Includes a
junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length
25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. 12-20z per hour. All day tickets 24-49z.
Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www.
osir-polna.pl. Includes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water
slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.
Admission 15/10z per hour.
SGGW ul. Ciszewskiego 10 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22
593 12 83, www.obiektysportowe.sggw.pl. Includes a
kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, fitness centre and slide. Length
25m, depth 1.5-1.8m. QOpen 06:45 - 23:00. Last entrance
at 21:45. Admission 16/7z per hour.
Wodnik ul. Abrahama 10 (Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48)
22 673 82 00, www.wodnik.waw.pl. Includes sauna,
Jacuzzi and slide. Length 25m, depth 1.4-1.8m. QOpen
06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 16/11z
per hour.
Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com.pl. Heres the best
pool of the lot with facilities including saunas, steam rooms,
snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other
recreational facilities. Prices range from 18-24z/10-18z
per hour. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.
(Spa open 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission
23-36/17-30z)
Tennis
AZS Tennis Club H-2, ul. Zieleniecka 2, tel. (+48)
22 619 15 40. Tennis round the clock. Q Open 24hrs.
30-50z per hour.
Sinus Sport Club ul. Wa Zawadowski 99 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 501 01 90 03, www.sinussportclub.pl.
Squash, tennis and fitness facilties. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Zoo
Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619
40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened i n 1928, Warsaw
Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some
500,000 visi tors each year. Four el ephants, a famil y of
seals and a lion cub were added to the current coll ection
of reptil es, birds and ti gers. Condi tions have improved
dramati call y in recent years, though a visi t here will do
li ttl e to change any opinions you have on locking animals
in cages. As wi th every maj or Warsaw landmark, the zoo
has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning
of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been
kill ed, deported to the Third Rei ch, eaten by l ocals or
escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became
something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Upris-
ing, abiski helped save countl ess li ves by shel tering
Jewish orphans insi de the grounds of the zoo. The zoo
of fi ciall y re-opened in 1949. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
Sun 09:00 - 19:00 Last entrance 1 hour before cl osing.
Admission 17/12z. Chil dren under 3 years free.
135
Legi a War sz awa H- 4, ul .
azienkowska 3, tel. (+48) 22 574
05 00, www.legia.com. Al though
the new stadium has been officially
re-opened constructi on conti nues
on one side meaning capacity is cur-
rently 25,000 rising to 31,000 once
the final part opens later in 2011. The
best place to watch the game from as a foreigner is the
East Stand (Trybuna
Wschodnia) and you
should bring ID (pass-
port, driving licence)
to buy tickets.
As we went to press
Legia had just finished
the season in a disap-
pointing (for them) 3rd
place in the league 7 pts off the champions Wisla Krakow.
Despite a Polish cup triumph (that was marred by a post
match riot) there is speculation that a new coach will be
in place before they kick off 2011/12 at the end of July.
QTicket office open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Tickets 55-130z.
Women - 30% discount.
Students - 20% discount.
Children up to 7 - free.
Family sector tickets 22-27z per person.
Legia Warszawa
Polonia Warszawa A- 1, ul.
Konwiktorska 6 (entrance also
from ul. Bonifraterska), tel. (+48)
22 771 76 88, www.ksppolonia.
com. Stadium capaci ty is 6,800
with 300 places reserved for op-
posing supporters. Foreign fans are
recommended to buy tickets for the main stand (Trybuna
Gwna). Note you should
bring ID (passport or driv-
ing licence) in order to buy
a ticket.
As we went to press Po-
lonia Warszawa had just
been crowned champions
for the third time in four
seasons, seeing off a late
challenge from Slask Wroclaw with Polonia finishing 12
pts back in 7th. Expectations will be for a higher finish
when the new season kicks off at the end of July.
QTicket office open from about 4 hours before the game
on match days. Tickets 5-20z.
Polonia Warszawa
KSP Polonia Warszawa SSA
Poland is a country with a rich football heritage, fanatical
supporters and a maj or European tournament to l ook
forward to hosting. However there are major problems with
corruption, incompetent administration of the game and a
pretty serious hooligan issue. So while watching a game
here is not discouraged, do exercise caution when attend-
ing a game particularly the local derby between Warsaws
two major clubs.
Poland as a national side has finished 3rd in 2 World Cups
and the ol der fans among you will remember the likes
of Grzegorz Lato (Gol den Boot winner at the West Ger-
man Worl d Cup of 1974), Kazimi erz Deyna and Zbi gni ew
Boni ek (one hal f of the great Juventus mi dfi el d pairing
wi th Mi chel Platini). Pol es are bi g fans of the game but
the current state of the game in this country is depress-
ing. The national si de has been in turmoil since before
Leo Beenhakker, the experi enced Dutch trainer who had
managed to get Poland to their first ever Euro Champs in
2008, was fired li ve on the pi tch after Poland went out
of Worl d Cup quali fying in Sl ovenia. A seri es of defeats,
poor per formances and lack of new tal ent have Pol es
thankful that they quali fy for Euro 2012 by way of being
hosts but fear ful that this will resul t in a seri es of hi gh
profile thrashings at the hands of some of the continents
bi gger si des.
At club l evel things are even worse i f that is possi bl e.
Wi th the national side typicall y recrui ting from the limi ted
number of players pl ying their trade in forei gn l eagues,
Polish clubs are even worse of f. Their standing in Euro-
pean competition is a disgrace with their last representa-
ti ves in the group stage of the Champions League being
Wi dzew Lodz in 1996. The 2010/2011 season saw all
bar one Polish entry in Europe out by the end of August to
the mi ght of clubs such as Austria Vi enna, Aris Sal onika
and Qarabag of Azerbai jan. In summary the l eague is
poor, corruption has been ri fe (currentl y over 70 peopl e
have been arrested included club of fi cials and refs) and
attendances are l ow.
One of Polands biggest and most successful clubs is
here in the capital. Legia Warszawa was originally formed
during WWI as a club for the fighting legions and was of-
ficially established as the army club in 1922. They have
quite a history with eight league titles and a record 13
cup triumphs to their name and one of only 2 Polish clubs
to have quali fied for the league stage of the Champions
League. They were far more successful in Europe during
communist times reaching the semi finals of the European
cup in 1969-70 and the quarter-finals a year later. Much of
their success during these times was due to the fact that,
as the army club, with the support of the party, Legia were
able to attract the countrys best players with the threat
of a spell in the army for those that didnt agree. It is for
this that Legia are traditionally despised in Poland outside
of their own fanatical Warsaw based following. Now owned
by Polands biggest independent media company, their
stadium at Lazienkowski has seen a complete rebuild and
was officially re-opened in August 2010 with an eventful 6-5
defeat at the hands of Arsenal London. With seats for over
30,000 spectators, Legia are one of the best supported
clubs in the country.
Although Warsaws second club, Polonia Warszawa have
traditionally been seen as the poor neighbour, they are in fact
older than Legia having been formed in 1911 at a time when
Poland didnt even exist as a nation. Taking the name Polonia
(the Latin for Poland) the club represented something of a
protest to the ruling Russians and the black shirts for which
Polonia are known were also seen as a mark of mourning
the missing country. With 2 league championships and 2
Polish cups, Polonia have a less successful history than their
illustrious neighbours. However with the purchase of the club
in 2006 by one of Polands richest men the future looks posi-
tive and they are once again established in the top division.
WARSAW FOOTBALL
136
d may l ook l i ke i ts pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age d is one of the young-
est cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while d can-
not boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues youll find them all
inside our 13th issue of d In Your Pocket; Polands
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
d In Your Pocket
Getting there
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If youre travelling
from the capital youll need to book a ticket running to d
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and youll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travel-
lers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some basics
d first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic be-
gan a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the towns population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades d
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europes
l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldnt be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m
2

Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol ands l argest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
youll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m
2
Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
$l
January - April 2011
1 ] (w tym 8% VAT)
lodz.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1896-1169
D{ INWINTER
Tips on what to do
and where to go
Smoking
Where you can
and where you cant
D
Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of d City Council
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138
SHOPPING
Its not Dubai, its not Hong Kong, its not Milan and its not
London. Warsaw has a long way to go before its regarded
as a shopping mecca, but nevertheless the city now touts
an array of shops that make further investigation not just
recommended, but required. Whether its western style
malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique
markets a day spent shopping can result in both bargains
and treasures.
24-hour shops
ABS-BEST B-4, ul. Hoa 27a, tel. (+48) 22 628 76 60.
Antaek C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434
20 20.
Alcohol
Of course you didnt come to Poland just for the booze,
but while youre here itd be rude not to check out what the
country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere
and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store. Others to watch
for include ubrwka - thats the one with the blade of bison
grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and winiwka,
a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals.
Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by the
22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous
in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list
come guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens.
Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 01 03, www.polmos-siedlce.com.pl. More
than an off-license, more like everything youve ever wished
for before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect
cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just
Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
La Passion du Vin A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok. 4, tel.
(+48) 22 436 06 26, www.winnica.pl. Shop, bar and
restaurant. Among numerous others they also tout a line in
Gerard Depardieus wine. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Mielyski Wine Bar D-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel.
(+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Crates and
crates and crates of wine sourced from Europe and the New
World. Proprietor Robert Mielzynski is on a life mission to
introduce quality wine to the denizens of Warsaw, and its a
passion thats very much in evidence. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel.
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
Antiques & Art Galleries
Desa Modern F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. (+48) 664
98 14 61, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art
circles. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dom Aukcyjny Criterion ul. Bokserska 64 (Mo-
kotw), tel. (+48) 22 847 89 77, www.antykiweb.eu.
Oriental, English and European antiques that range from
furniture to artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Galeria Freta 22 B-1, ul. Freta 20/24, tel. (+48) 22 635
93 60, www.freta22.pl. Paintings, graphics, lamps and furni-
ture from one of the most established names on the New Town
antiquarian circuit. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51
Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00
THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW!
seashells, minerals and fossils
silver and amber jewellery
semiprecious stone necklaces
African and Asian handcraft
decorative stone products
139
SHOPPING
Perse, inside a great environment that smacks of Marthas
Vineyard. This is shopping with style, with gourmet coffee,
import fashion mags and big sofas on hand to really round
out the experience. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Sun.
Laura Guidi F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel. (+48) 22 827
68 99, www.lauraguidi.pl. One of Polands top womens
fashion studios with clothes for every occasion. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70
99, www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique
featuring collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and
Ralph Lauren. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Tru Trussardi C-4, ul. urawia 2, tel. (+48) 22 621
57 74, www.trussardi.it. The modern Italian-led, urban
fashion range is now present in Poland. Elegant but casual
clothing for men and women designed for the modern day
where it is typical to move from business function to private
meeting and back. Also at ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Klif), ul.
Wooska 12 (E-7, Galeria Mokotw) and ul. Ostrobramska
75c (Promenada). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-2, ul. witojaska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul.
witojaska 14 (B-2), ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2) and ul. Piwna
26 (B-2). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions of
flights that land each morning at Okcie most English language
dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon, sometimes not
till the next day. The most comprehensive source of foreign
press can be found at EMPiK, though Traffic and Relay (main
hall of central train station) also stock a smattering of titles.
Try, also, the newsagents found in five star hotels. On that
score we rate the Sheraton and Marriott as the most likely to
stock on-the-day papers. As far as magazines are concerned,
EMPiK blows the competition out of the water, though you can
expect to pay a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice.
EMPiK also have a small corner reserved for English lan-
guage trash titles and classics, though when it comes to
books most people wont look beyond the pleasures of the
American Bookstore. This place is the final word in expat
book buying, with great, up-to-date stock and discount cards
for repeat customers. Dont dare, whatever you do, overlook
our discovery of the year, second hand bookstore Reddings.
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 627
06 50, www.empik.com. Hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers. Also loads of music, perfumes,
video games, photo services etc. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion
Flaming Lifestyle Store G- 4, ul. Mokotowska
28, tel. (+48) 22 629 05 45, www.flaming-co.pl. All
the latest collections from brands like Allude and James
Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy
wiat 37, tel. (+48) 22
827 55 03, www.frey-
wille.com. Fine jewellery
and fashi on accessori es
inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Biaystok, Bydgoszcz, Czstochowa, Gdask, Gdynia, Katowice, Krakw,
Pozna, Szczecin, Warszawa, Wrocaw
Produced and distributed by T.R.S. Evolution Spa - Ph. +39 059 421511 - Polska: TRS Polska Sp. z o.o., Ph. 022 636 60 16 - www.trussardi.com
140
SHOPPING
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though i f
you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and
woodwork all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Hours
of endless dirge come provided by the makers of Monopoly,
and youll find Warsaw specific boards on sale at places like
SMYK department store. For the lads, pick up a Polski football
shirt or scarf off any of the stalls that spring up unannounced
around central station.
Artis Galeria Sztuki Uytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater
47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish
souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries
and carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627
21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned
for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Bolesawiec Pottery A- 4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel.
(+48) 22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec.
com.pl. Brightly patterned hand-finished ceramics and
tabl eware. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Bombkarnia F- 3, ul. Emilii Plater 47, tel. (+48)
22 624 24 26, www.bombkarnia.com. Cutesy hand-
painted glass ornaments including baubl es, eggs and
novelty gi fts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszakowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi-
crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (A-8). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Charms C-3, ul. Chmielna 9, tel. (+48) 695 33 34 47,
www.dedicated-charms.pl. Personalised charm bracelets
for both women and men using all sorts of jewellery including
silver, Swarovski and coloured stones. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Forget Me Not Gi f t (Mi si ol andi a) C- 4, ul .
Chmielna 16, tel. (+48) 22 827 39 42. Loads of gi ft
i deas here, from boneware to bags - all produced wi th a
classi cal touch. But the true reason for visi ting are the
chil drens bears; fi nd hundreds of the furry monsters
here, of all shape and every size. Not cheap, but theyll
keep the peace. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
16:00. Cl osed Sun.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51,
tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little
find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver
jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute
treasure, and a must visit if youre looking for a something
a little unique. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Rock Shop B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. You know
a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is
there anything which says Ive been there more than a
Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Warsaw one
to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in
the Zote Tarasy development opposite the train station.
Classic white costs 88z, navy blue costs 99z. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00.
Velt Gallery B- 3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22
620 32 57, www.vel t.pl. Chi c l ooki ng gl assware
and l amps on a street dyi ng for a revi val . QOpen
11: 00 - 19: 00, Mon 15: 00 - 19: 00, Sat 11: 00 - 15: 00.
Cl osed Sun.
Markets
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of The Russian
Market hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
Bazar Ryckiego G/H-1, ul. Targowa 54, tel. (+48)
22 619 44 06, www.br.waw.pl. Once regarded as War-
saws premier bazaar, the compact Bazar Ryckiego has
seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade
once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, nowa-
days the historic market (open since 1876) is a ghostly image
of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans,
firearms and spurious goods, its now a mildly depressing
look into working class Warsaw life. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00,
Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Koo Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the
country this is exactly the place i f youve ever wanted to
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India
(yours for 16,000z). What else can you find? Weve spot-
ted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early
19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and
grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1z.
Youll even find the occasional celeb looking for something
wacky to fill their top-floor penthouse with. The traders
themselves are a set of curious characters, and watching
these veterans at work is one reason alone to visit. While
early morning is the best time to snap up the rare finds,
1pm on the closing Sunday is the time to hit to try and get
the last minute bargains. The golden rule is to haggle at all
times. Paying the asking price means overpaying. QOpen
06:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 16:00.
Photography Market F-5, ul. Batorego 10. Discount
camera equipment inside the Stodoa nightclub. Lenses,
lamps, filters, negatives etc. Highly recommended for those
who take their photography seriously and know what they
are looking for. Q Open Sun 10:00-14:00.
Speciality food shops
Krakowski Kredens C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 11, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Pol-
ish delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses.
Also on ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Le Cedre G-1, ul. Floriaska 14, tel. (+48) 22 670 11
66, www.lecedre.pl. Your one stop shop for Lebanese
ingredients, with restaurant next door. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun.
Marks & Spencer F-3, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 06 50, www.marks-and-spencer.
com. Not exactly the food hall M&S are famous for back in
the UK, but nonetheless, situated at the back of the Marks
& Sparks clothing racks is a cracking little selection of hard-
to-find foods including lemon curd, own brand tomato soup,
Worcester sauce crisps, steak pie, chicken Kiev, tinned and
frozen curries and traditional lemonade. Also at: ul. Jana
Pawa II 82 (A-1, Arkadia), ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek), Galeria
Mokotw (E-7). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawa II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
141
SHOPPING
Le Chocolat B- 4, ul. urawia 26, tel. (+48) 22 745
10 71, www.lechocolat.pl. Weep at the choice that
presents itsel f. Possibly the finest source of chocolate
in Warsaw, with wrapped-up personalized gi ft packs also
for purchase. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Madame Walewska E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 22 (Hotel
Mercure), tel. (+48) 22 528 03 62, www.madame-
walewska.waw.pl. Mercure based patisserie with fanciful
cakes and tortes. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:30.
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Pol -
ish legend thats been operating since Karol Wedel first
opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade
pralines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Zoto Hiszpanii C-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel. (+48) 668 13
45 67, www.zlotohiszpanii.pl. A Spanish delicatessen
offering high quality meats and wines including Joselite
hams, Kobe beef and Muga wines. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00,
Specialty shops
Old Havana Cigars & Accessories A-4, Ul. Zota
59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 04 17, www.
oldhavana.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Sweets
Polish food is a conundrum. On one hand you have stodgy,
gut clogging mains, on the other delectable desserts that
stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the best. What to get?
Pczki are your donuts, krwki are fudge style snacks,
pierniki your gingerbread and faworki a deliciously light
pastry topped with a scattering of sugar. Leave room for
the sernik, the Polish take on cheesecake, but stand warned
it sometimes comes with the quite needless addition of
raisins. All of the following are stalwarts in their trade with
bullet-proof reputations.
Delikatesy Blikle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 35, tel. (+48)
22 826 05 69, www.blikle.pl. Aside from homemade
cakes and eclairs Polands most famous confectioner can
boast killer donuts, once enjoyed by a certain Charles de
Gaulle. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
11:00 - 14:00.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase val ue wi th VAT per Tax
Refund Cheque is 200pln. Keep the
Tax Refund Cheque, have it stamped
when leaving the final point of departure from the EU
and reclaim your money. For full details check www.
global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Refund Cheque when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping

For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com
www.global-blue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Refund Cheque stamped.
If youre travelling on to another EU country,
get the stamp on your Tax Refund Cheque at
your final point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Refund
Cheque and passport to our staff at Global Blue
Customer Services or one of our partner refund
points and theyll issue your refund
immediately.
142
SHOPPING
Arkadi a D- 1, Al .
Jana Pawa II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you cant find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m2 Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so its little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approxi-
mately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Espirit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you cant find
what youre after in there then head to Kuchnie wiata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Galeria Mokotw E-7,
ul . Wo oska 12, tel .
(+48) 22 541 41 41,
www.galeriamokotow.
pl. At 150,000m2 Galeria
Mokotw has been eclipsed in size by Arkadia and Blue
City, but remains the mall of choice for a large number of
expats. Clothes wise stores include Clavin Klein, Lacoste,
Versace, Trussardi, Peek & Cloppenburg, as well as
several high street chains like Mango, Napa- Diesel and
River Island. The entertainment center on the top floor
includes bowling, food court and Cinema City multiplex.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Likus Concept Store C- 3, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 02,
www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Li kus Concept
Stores are one of the leading designer brand retailers
in the country and this one is a bit special. Housed in
a XIX century bath house which was the only one of its
kind to survive WWII, the trademark mix of restored
architectural styles combined with modern design have
created one of the most pleasing places to shop in the
heart of Warsaw. Situated on the renovated Krakowskie
Przedmiescie between the old town and the shopping
district of Nowy Swiat, LCS features some big names
- McQueen, Chloe, Yves Saint Laurent, Celine, Jimmy
Choo, Dsquared2, Martin Margiela, Damir Doma, John
Galliano, and Lanvin. There is also a vinery and very
good restaurant. In the restaurant you find a fusion
menu influenced by the collections on sale and sitting
at its heart is a 100-year old bath which they now use
to chill champagne. Nice. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
Shopping malls
Z ote Tarasy A- 4, ul .
Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaws monstrous train
station now has a new neigh-
bour - the sparkl i ng Zote
Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw-
ing more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Polands first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Polands first Hard Rock Caf which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.kli f.pl. The
nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have
long been present in Warsaw,
though i f you thi nk you ve
seen it all before then think
agai n. These chaps have
rebranded and re-launched
wi th October 2008 refi t re-
sulting in the addition of new
floors, an updated design and
a thorough faceli ft. But as with all shopping centres
the proof comes in the pudding, ie the tenants. Now
on show are top tags from MaxMara to PennyBlack,
as well outlets for casual faves like Paul & Shark. For
the juniors watch for Casper and Mothercare, QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
KLIF SHOPPING CENTER
UL. OKOPOWA 58/72, 01-042 WARSAW
PHONE: 22 531 45 00, WWW.KLIF.PL
PREMIUM
SHOPPING
A.BLIKLE AGA FLOWERS ALMI DCOR
APART EXCLUSIVE APIA APTEKA MIEJSKA
ARTYSTYCZNE PAKOWANIE PREZENTW AGA
FLOWERS ARY TON AUTOGRAF BALDININI
BANK MILLENNIUM BET T Y BARCLAY BOMI
BONJOUR CASPER CATERINA CENTRUM
FOTO] CERRO TORRECHEESECAKE CORNER
CHOLEWISKI EXCLUSIVE COCCINELLE
COFFEEHEAVEN DENI CLER DOLCE VITA
DUKA EMANUEL BERG ESPRIT EUROTEL
ERA FRATERNIT Y FURLA GINO ROSSI
GUESS HEXELINE IBLUES INMEDIO
JACKPOT & COTTONFIELD KANTOR WYMIANY
WALUT KRZYSZTOF ROBAK OPT YK LAURA
GUIDI LE CHARME LERROS I CAMPIONE
LILLA MODA LIU JO LORENS&WIKTOR
MANI PEDI SPA MARELLA MARLBORO
CLASSICS MASSIMO REBECCHI MAX MARA
MIODEK HAIR HOUSE MOLTON MONETTI
MOTHERCARE NOTABENE OHH! SUSHI&GRILL
OLSEN ORSAY PALMERS PANDORA
PATRIZIA PEPE PAUL&SHARK PENNYBLACK
PIERROT PINKO PLUS IT POLLINI
PRIMA PRALNIA CHEMICZNA QUEEN INTIME
RAGE AGE RED VALENTINO RESERVED
ROYAL COLLECTION ROYAL COLLECTION
CLASSIC RTV-EURO-AGD SPORTOFINO
SALAMANDER SALON PARTNER ORANGE
RAMSAT TELESYSTEM SAMUEL SEPHORA
SIMPLE SINAL DYWANY ORIENTALNE SISLEY
SNAKE MILANO SOLAR STEFANEL
SWAROVSKI SWISS TATUUM TCHIBO TRU
TRUSSARDI TUI CENTRUM PODRY UNITED
COLORS OF BENETTON VERO MODA
VERONI VILLEROY & BOCH VISION EXPRESS
VISTULA W.KRUK WEEKEND BY MAX MARA
WIKINGWITTCHENWLCZANKAYVES ROCHER
144
DIRECTORY
France G-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
01, www.israel.pl.
Italy F-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, http://pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22 311
00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
International schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Ecole Antoine de Saint- Exupry ul. Nobla 16
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.
saint-exupery.pl.
German - Polish School of Meeting and Dialogue
Willy - Brandt - Schule in Warsaw ul. Wandy
Rutkiewicz 2 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 642 27 05, www.
wbs.pl. Also at ul. Kolegiacka 1a (Wilanw).
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-warsaw.
pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language schools
Akademia PFF F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
67/11, tel. (+48) 501 29 93 38, www.pff-warsaw.com.
Polish courses for foreigners.
Perfect Polish , tel. (+48) 783 01 24 63, www.perfect-
polish.pl. Group and private lessons available for individuals,
companies, institutions etc. Effective learning and no boring
lessons guaranteed, as well as home lessons to save you
time. For more details check www.perfectpolish.pl.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. witokrzyska
20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Laundry & Dry Cleaning
BLANC LYS Laundry Self Service ul. Ks. Janusza
23 (Wola), tel. (+48) 508 16 28 10, www.blanc-lys.
com. A sel f-service launderette with on-site wi fi to pass
the time.
LiLi ul. Surowieckiego 12a (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 644
93 77, www.pralniasamoobslugowa.com. 5 washing ma-
chines and 5 dryers available. Washing 14z, drying 10z. They
also offer ironing and a washing by phone service where they
collect clothes from you, wash them and deliver them back.
Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has many
useful contacts for you. Click on the left for listings.
Remember to email us if you find any of our contacts
particularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also
welcome new additions.
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka ul. eromskiego 13 (Bielany), tel. (+48) 22
834 58 04, www.juventa.pl.
Apteka G-5, ul. Puawska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 37 57,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48) 22
620 08 18, www.aptekabeata.pl.
Business associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce A-2, ul. Fabry-
czna 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 320 01 00, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Polish-German Chamber of Commerce B-1, ul.
Miodowa 14, tel. (+48) 22 531 05 00, www.ahk.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 24.05.11 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 3,9481z, US$1 = 2,8024z, GBP 1 =4,5196z.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 21, tel. (+48) 22 621
81 59, www.aurex.biz.
1 Euro = 3.91zl,
1 Dollar = 2.75zl,
1 Pound = 4.45zl,
No commission.
Kantor A-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (first floor),
tel. (+48) 22 222 12 34.
1 Euro = 3.88zl,
1 Dollar = 2.73zl,
1 Pound = 4.42zl,
No commission.
Pekao SA ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Warsaw Frederick
Chopin Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 45 34, www.
pekao.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.85zl,
1 Dollar = 2.74zl,
1 Pound = 4.43zl,
No commission.
Currency exchange
145
DIRECTORY
Places of worship
Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8 (Praga),
tel. (+48) 500 27 09 90, www.gbc-ekb.pl. Services are held
in Polish and English languages: Sun. 11:00 (Sunday School) and
Thurs. 18:00. For more information contact: Pastor Paul Sock,
mob. 500-270-990, e-mail: paulesock@yahoo.com
Private clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors
available 24hrs a day. Also at ul. Wabrzyska 46 (Suew),
Al. KEN 103 (Ursynw), Al. Niepodlegoci 107/109 (F-6).
LIM Medical Center A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 458 70 00, www.cmlim.
pl. Also on ul. Domaniewska 41b, ul 17 Stycznia 49, al. Jana
Pawa II 78 (E-1), ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6) and ul. Wooska 7.
Real estate
Home One ul. Limanowskiego 11 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 642 11 11, www.homeone.pl.
Knight Frank B-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 596 50
50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.
Ober - Haus Real Estate Advi sor s F- 2, ul .
Marszakowska 111, tel. (+48) 22 528 54 54, www.
ober-haus.com. Long established experts in residential,
office, logistics and retail real estate, both in Poland and the
Baltics. Founded in 1994 the database includes all types of
large and small flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Relocation companies
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,
Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00,
www.corstjens.com.
Move One Relocations F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel.
(+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation Pl. Wilsona 4/81 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 869 04 40, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Agencja MAart C-3, ul. Kopernika 3, tel. (+48) 22
480 88 00, www.maart.pl.
Awangarda B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33/11, tel. (+48)
22 629 92 44, www.awangarda.pl.
Komputekst ul. Midzyborska 82 (Praga-Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl.
Tappenden Translations Al. KEN 54 m. 90 (Ursyn-
w), tel. (+48) 501 21 00 59, www.tdtranslations.pl.
Useful Organisations
Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.aa-europe.net. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu
18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 11:00.
American Friends in Warsaw , info@afw.waw.pl,
www.afw.waw.pl.
Beit Warszawa Foundation ul. Wiertnicza 113
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 885 26 38, www.beit.org.pl.
International Womens Group of Warsaw , www.
iwgwarsaw.eu.
Mums & Tots postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.
mumsandtots.com.
SWEA www.swea.org. The association of Swedish and
Swedish-speaking women abroad. Cultural, educational and
recreational activities throughout the year. For more info
contact warszawa@swea.org.
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www.newpolanoexpress.pl
I
t took fve seconds to transform Po-
land from a country bustling with
confdence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its lef wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof frst into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
Te head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
A small patch of fowers and candles
lef by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
diferences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol-
ish nation stood to attention and refected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
Te tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will afect monetary
policy and other issues.
Te succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
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Issue 15 ()
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
Boutique
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
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152
STREET REGISTER
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Boni fraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
Powstacw Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafiskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagorea F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
153
Airport Hotel Okcie 39
Apartamenty Dobranoc 37
Belwederski 34
Best Western Hotel Felix 36
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 34
Campanile 35
Castle Inn 35
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw
Airport 39
Czarny Kot My Warsaw
Residence 35
Dom Literatury 35
Etap Warszawa Centrum 36
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 36
Gromada - Dom Chopa 36
Harenda 36
Hetman 36
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 32
Hit 36
Holiday Inn Warszawa 32
Hostel Suewiec 38
Hostel To-Tu 38
Hyatt Regency Warsaw 32
Chmielna St. B&B 35
Ibis Ostrobramska 36
Ibis Stare Miasto 36
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 36
InterContinental 32
InterContinental 37
Jan III Sobieski 34
Kanonia 39
Krokodyl 39
Le Mridien Bristol 32
Lord 36
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 33
Mamaison Residence Diana
Warsaw 38
Maria 36
Marriott 33
Mazowiecki 37
MDM 36
Mercure Grand 34
Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk
Chopin 34
Metropol 36
Nathan's Villa 39
New World St. Hostel 39
Novotel Warszawa Airport 39
Novotel Warszawa Centrum 33
Oki Doki 39
P&O Apartments 38
Partner 36
Polonia Palace Hotel 33
Premiere Classe 37
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 33
Residence 1898 38
Residence St. Andrew's Palace
38
Reytan 36
Rialto 34
Senator Warsaw 38
Sheraton Warsaw 34
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 34
Start Hotel Aramis 37
Start Hotel Atos 37
Start Hotel Portos 37
The Westin 34
99 49
4 Ye Goode Foode 46
77 Sushi 61
Absurd228 49
Adler 46
Akademia Smaku 50
Amadera 50
Amber Room 64
Annapurna 46
Arti 46
Babalu 45
Babooshka 72
Bacio 58
Banja Luka 42
Bar Gruziski Argo 46
Bar Mleczny Familijny 66
Bazyliszek 64
Bellini 59
Belvedere 64
Besuto 61
Bezgraniczna 50
Bierhalle 50
Biosfeera 75
Bistro de Paris 44
Bistro Pita wiartka 64
Blue Cactus 73
Bollywood Lounge 46
Bonsai 61
Borpince 46
Boscaiola 59
Brasserie 50
BrowArmia 51
Buddha Indian Restaurant 48
Burger King 44
Butchery & Wine 51
C.K. Obera 46
Caf 6/12 46
Caf Zamek 65
Ceprownia 65
Cesarski Paac 43
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan)
63
Deco Kredens 51
Dekanta 65
Delicja Polska 65
Delizia 59
Dom Polski 65
Dyspensa 66
Dziki Ry 74
Donka 74
Efes 74
El Greco 46
El Popo 73
Enoteka Polska 59
Fish&Chips 42
Five 51
Flaming & Co Restaurant 51
Flow 52
Folk Gospoda 66
Frida 73
Fusion 45
Galeria Bali Buddha Club 49
Galeria Freta 52
Ganesh 48
Gar 59
Gastronomia Rozrywkowa 52
Glass House 52
Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie 66
Grand Kredens 52
Green Bar & Catering 75
Green Patio 52
Greenway 75
Halka restauracja po polsku 66
Hard Rock Caf 40
Honoratka 66
Hotel Rialto's Restaurant 53
Champions Sports Bar &
Restaurant 40
Chianti 59
China Garden 43
Chopskie Jado 65
ChopstiX 61
India Cook House 48
India Curry 48
Inside Restaurant & Bar 53
Izumi Sushi 61
Jazz Bistro 53
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka 53
Kamanda Lwowska 75
Karmnik 66
Katmandu 48
KFC 44
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery 62
Klimaty Kulinarne Czyli Chilli 67
Kresowa Hawira 67
Kresowiak 67
La Cantina 63
La Fiesta Tortilla Restaurant 73
La Rotisserie 44
La Table 44
Le Cedre 63
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 42
Lemongrass 74
Leniwa Gospodyni 66
Literatka 67
Lokanta 74
London Steak House 42
Love Bagels 40
Maharaja Thai 74
Maho 75
Maa Gruzja 46
Mandala 48
Marconi 53
McDonald's 44
Meza 54
Molala 62
Na Zielnej 54
Nomia 54
Nu Jazz Bistro 60
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 67
Orchidea 45
Osteria 72
OTO!SUSHI 62
Papaya 45
Parmizzano's 60
Pepper Pub & Restaurant 54
Petit Moulin Rouge 54
Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej 68
Pierrogeria 68
Pizza Hut 44
Platter by Karol Okrasa 68
Podwale - Kompania Piwna 54
Podwale 5 68
Poezja 55
Polka, Magda Gessler po
prostu 68
Portucale 72
Przejcie dla Pieszych 55
Przy Zamku 68
Przystanek Chmielna 55
Radio Caf 70
Restauracja Concept 55
Restauracja Kultura 55
Restauracja Polska Przy
Trakcie 70
Restauracja Rana 70
Restauracja Sowiaska 70
Restauracja Wilanw 55
Restaurant @Ferdy's 56
Restro 56
Rewers 56
Royal India 49
Rozbrat 20 56
Rusticoni 60
Saint Jacques 44
Sakana 62
Sense 45
Skwer 56
Sofa Clubistro 56
SomePlace Else 40
St. Traffo 57
Stacja Rynek 57
Stanislas Brasserie 45
Stary Dom 70
Strauss Restaurant 70
Strefa Gourmet 72
Subway 44
Suparom Thai Food 74
Sushi Teatr 62
Sushi Zushi 62
T.G.I. Friday's 40
Tamka 43 57
Tapa y Toro 73
Taste Barcelona 42
Tel-Aviv Cafe + Deli 63
The Mexican 73
The Olive 57
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS
154
LISTINGS INDEX
The Oriental 43
ToBaYa 74
Tomo Sushi 62
Trattoria Ti Amo 60
Trylogia 57
U Barssa 71
U Fukiera 71
U Kucharzy 71
U Szwejka 44
VaBank 57
Valadier 71
Venezia Ristorante 60
Villa Foksal 58
Villa Nuova 71
Vinares Wine Bar 58
Vinoteka La Bodega 58
Vogue Style 58
W Komitecie 66
W Komitecie 72
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 74
You & Me 58
Zapiecek 72
Zen Jazz Bistro 63
Zgoda 72
Zielona Oliwka 60
99 78
Amadera 78
Batida 76
Belgian Chocolate Club 76
Blikle Caf 76
Caf 6/12 78
Caf au Lait 76
Caf Bristol 76
Cafe Colombia 76
Cafe Gallery Belle Epoque 76
Caf Meryk 76
Cafe Prna 76
Caf Vincent 76
Cava 76
Coffee Karma 77
Coffeeheaven 76
Costa Coffee 77
Czuy Barbarzyca 77
Hagen-Dazs 77
Hard Rock Cafe 78
Chodna 25 76
Jazz Bistro Espresso 77
Jimmy Bradley's 78
Kawiarnia Ogrody 77
Keks 77
ysy Pingwin 77
Madame Walewska 77
McDonald's 78
Na Placu Cafe 77
Opasy Tom Piwu 78
Osir Cafe 78
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 78
SensNonsensu 78
Sklep z Kanapkami 78
Sodki Sony 78
Specjay Regionalne 79
Starbucks Coffee 79
The Pictures art bar cafe 79
To Lubi 79
Vienna Caf 79
Wiatraki Przestrze
Wsppracy 79
2NA3 80
+ One Bar 80
1500m2 88
Alibi Sports Bar & Restaurant 80
Bank Club 88
Bierhalle 80
Bierhalle 93
Bojangles Bar & Lounge 80
Bollywood Lounge 89
Bonu Dobra Sycylijskie 84
BrowArmia 93
Butiklub 89
Cafe Bar Lemon 80
Cafe Kulturalna 81
Caf Szparka 81
Caffe Przejcie 81
City 24 93
Club Capitol 89
Club Mirage 89
Column Bar 81
Confashion 90
Confashion Sport 81
Coyote Bar & Night Club 95
Dekada 90
Enklawa 90
Fabryka Trzciny 90
Fantom 92
Galeria 92
Gniazdo Piratw 82
Hard Rock Cafe 82
Hossa 82
Hunters Club 90
Hutawka Club 82
Hydrozagadka 82
Restaurant 81
Restaurant 84
Chwila Da Klub 89
Jazz Bistro 86
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka 86
Jazzownia Liberalna 86
Jimmy Bradley's 92
JP's Bar 82
Jung & Lecker 84
Klaps 82
Klub Karmel 91
Klubobus 93
Kokomo 95
Kwadrat 82
La Casa Del Habano 82
Restaurant 82
Restaurant 84
Lobby Bar 82
Lokal Uytkowy 84
Lorelei 84
Luztro 91
Maska 84
Meta 93
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 86
Molly Malone's Irish Pub 93
Mono Bar 91
Muza 84
New Orleans 95
Night Guides 93
Nowy Wspaniay wiat 84
Obiekt Znaleziony 84
Opera 91
Opium 85
Palladium 91
Panorama Bar & Lounge 85
Paparazzi 85
Patrick's 93
Pawiarnia 85
Piwiarnia Warka 85
Plan B 85
Platinium Club 91
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 86
Pod Baryk 86
Polyester Caf 86
Powikszenie 86
Powile 86
Przekski Zakski 93
Rabarbar 86
Rich & Pretty Club & Cocktail
Bar 92
Saturator 87
Sense 87
Sheesha Lounge 87
Sketch 87
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny
87
Sofia 95
SomePlace Else 84
SomePlace Else 87
Space Club 92
The Eve Music Club 92
Time Cafe 88
Tygmont 86
Underground Music Cafe 92
Vegas Gentlemen's Club 95
Vinoteka 13 84
Zaktek 88
Zen Jazz Bistro 86
Zielona G 88
Ask your Concierge 33
Breakfast 78
City Card 19
Climate 19
Copernicus Science Centre 108
Currency exchange 144
Disaster in Smolensk 38
Eating at a glance 40
Euro 2012 58
Facts & Figures 19
Fast Food & Delivery 44
Gay Warsaw 92
Gestapo HQ 106
Have your say 62
Hotel Calculator 35
Jan III Sobieski 122
Jazz 86
Korczak Orphanage 60
Kociuszko Monument 104
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 102
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 2 103
Language Smarts 21
Late Night Eats 93
azienki Park 8
Lodgings at a glance 32
Mail & Phones 20
Market Values 20
Milk Bars 66
Museum of Erotic Art 109
National Holidays 21
Nightlife at a glance 80
Pawiak Prison 100
Polish Alcohol 88
Polish food 68
Presidential Palace 107
Quick Currency Convertor 21
Royal Castle 100
Secret Garden 81
Smoking 90
Sport on TV 84
Stanislaw Poniatowski 105
The Citadel 106
The Fountain 54
Three useful Warsaw tips 14
Tours 101
Vice Advice 94
Warsaw Central Station 18
Warsaw Historical Timeline 97
Wine 84
Features index
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE
11 Francuska St., Warsaw
Ph. 22 616 24 32, 22 616 24 88
www.restauracjadompolski.pl
Monday to Friday 12:00-16:00,
Dom Polski invites all guests to a special
lunch menu in price 55 pln per person
EVERY SUNDAY,
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR BRUNCH!
From 13:00 to 16:30, it's only
79 pln per person
AAAA cccoommmmbbbinnnaaaatiiooonnn ooofff ttthhe bbbbeestt iinn ccuuuiiisinne...
IIItttaaallliaaaann ssiiimmmmppllliicccittyyy,, FFFFrrreeennncchh ppppreeccciissiiooonnn, PPPoollliishh fffaavvoouurrs...
37 Lo.icka St., Warsa. Te/. 22 224 54 54, 22 423 44 40
.....a/adier.p/ e-mai/: restauracjaC.a/adier.p/

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