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EARLY HISTORY
Genever [juh-nee-ver] also known as Jenever, is the national spirit of Belgium and the
Netherlands. As with any cultural food and drink, its true history is intricately tied to the
soil and water from which it grew.

Genever began its life in what is known as the Low Countries (in Dutch de Lage
Landen). These are lands around the low-lying delta of three key rivers carved in
Northern Europe: the Rhine, the Schelde, and the Meuse. Today, these rivers wind
around modern day Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxemburg, and parts of France and
Germany.

GENEVER ‘AQUA VITAE’ OR ‘WATER OF LIFE’

Unlike wine and beer, recreationally imbibed in Europe, distilled drinks were the tools of
healers and made primarily for medicinal purposes. Genever owed much of its healing
properties to the use of juniper berries, which were featured in a number of remedies
at the time. For example, bathing in rainwater in which juniper berries were cooked,
was recommended to cure skin and intestinal disorders. The smoke of burning juniper
berries and wood was used to disinfect
areas housing plague victims.

The first written reference to Genever was

by Jacob van Maerlant in his a twelve-part
encyclopedia, Der Naturen Bloeme. The
tome, focusing on European flora and
fauna, was written in rhyme and published
in Damme, Belgium between 1266 and
1269. In his publication, van Maerlant
described a good remedy for abdominal
cramps featuring wine boiled with juniper berries. Van Maerlant was the first to note
the combination of juniper berries with wine and can be credited for recording
Genever’s first known ancestor.

Despite its powers, this healing concoction didn’t appear in written records again for
another 300 years. In 1552, Philippus Hermanni, a physician in Antwerp, Belgium
penned Een Constelijck Distileerboec, a book on distilling including the preparation
method of “juniper berry water” or “Genever aqua vitae.” In this method, juniper
berries were crushed, sprinkled with wine and then distilled. According to Philippus the
juniper berry water can be consumed for digestive disorders, colds, the plague and bites
of venomous animals. Philippus also referred to the result of the distillation process,
which including heating the mixture to separate the elements, as the “spirits.” It is the

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first time in Dutch literature that alcoholic vapors are called spirits. The book was such a
best-seller that it was reprinted several times. It was considered the manual for distillers
for many years, contributing to the explosive growth of the malt spirit industry in the
Low Countries.

Around the same time, the rising popularity of

brandy, distilled at the time from grapes and
juniper berries, was met with the loss of
vineyards due to consecutive bad harvests and
a “cold wave” felt around 1540. As grapes grew
scarce, wine grew more expensive. Distillers
are both artists and businessmen; they knew
they needed to find less expensive ingredients
to make their popular drink affordable to
produce and affordable for consumers to purchase. So they created other combinations
for brandy including beer and eventually, the malt beverage that makes the basis of
Genever.

The moment juniper began to flavor a malt beverage for the first time is one of
history’s great unknowns. One controversial theory credits Dr. Sylvius de Bouve, a
medical doctor and professor at the University of Leyden (also spelled Leiden) in the
Netherlands. According to legend the professor first manufactured “Genever” while
researching a cure for stomach and kidney disorders.

By 1595 he was selling his

product. Curiously, just as word
of this phenomenal new
medicine spread throughout
Leyden and the surrounding
countryside, the population
experienced a surge in kidney
and stomach disorders.

Demand was so high that Dr.

Sylvius found it difficult to keep
his medicine in stock. He needed
to produce Genever in larger
quantities at a faster pace.
Historians surmise that Dr. Sylvius struck an agreement with local distillers to help bring
his drink to the masses. A new industry – distilled drinks for recreational use – was
born.

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17TH CENTURY
DISTILLING BAN IN BELGIUM
In the early 17th century, the population of the Southern Low Countries (comprising
most of modern Belgium) suffered its own version of Prohibition. And like American
Prohibition, it resulted in a domino reaction, the impact of which can still be seen today.

In 1601, the Archduke Albrecht and the

Archduchess Isabella had growing
concerns about the amount of grain
being used for distilling alcohol.
Worried about a national food
shortage, they issued a ban on the
production and sale of brandy made
from grain and fruit.

In response, some distillers toiled on

illegally but most packed their pots and
fled the country for more welcoming
governments. Belgium’s loss was its
neighbors gain: Even today one may
find Flemish distillers in the
Netherlands, France and Berlin where
former Belgians established grain
distilleries (much to the dismay of local
distillers).

The distilling ban and distiller

migration created a demand for
Genever in the market, which was
quickly filled by port cities such as
Hasselt and Schiedam. These Northern
Low Country communities lay outside
Archduke Albrecht’s territory and thus escaped the distillery ban. Benefiting from the
explosion of grain supply, malt spirit production soared. The reputation holds true even
today: Schiedam is the modern-day Genever capital of the Netherlands and today’s
Hasselt is the Genever capital of Belgium.

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18TH CENTURY
DISTILLING BAN IS LIFTED IN BELGIUM;
Farmers become home distillers
The ban on distilling with grain came to a swift end with the introduction of the
Habsburger family into power (1713-1794) and encouraged distillers to get back to
work. But Belgian leadership had its eye on benefits beyond a stiff medicinal drink or
two. A by-product of Genever production was draff, a residue leftover after the first
distillation of the yeasted grain mash. Rich in proteins and cellulose, draff was a
nutritious feed for cattle and pigs, keeping them healthy enough to survive harsh
northern European winters. Closing the ecological circle, farmers used the manure from
the animals to fertilize the agricultural fields for the corn crop. Corn is a key raw
ingredient for Genever, allowing the entire process to begin again. During this time, a
home distillery on family farms is commonplace.

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19TH CENTURY
GENEVER PRODUCTION REACHES UNPRECENTED
HEIGHTS IN BELGIUM
Genever production in Belgium soared in the 19th century, benefiting from the
industrial revolution. Innovative distillers utilized steam generators and engines. These
new inventions, paired with the distillation column developed by Cellier-Blumenthal,
enabled distillers to create a continuous distillation process. As a result, Genever yield
exploded.

Fueled by these new efficiencies and a

wartime austerity measure that limited
barley consumption, new styles of
Genever started to emerge. A distinction
developed between Oude (Old) and
Jonge (Young) styles of Genever. These
names relate to traditional (Oude) and
modern (Jonge) production methods, not
the age of the alcohol in the barrel. Both
are blends of different types of spirits. The
Oude style is malty and sweet, and
contains a high proportion of korenwijn
(maltwine), cut with neutral grain or
another alcohol. The Jonge style is lighter
and drier, with a higher proportion of
neutral alcohol and a lower proportion of
korenwijn.

New inventions, new flavors, and easy

access to high yields of inexpensive raw
materials like sugar beets, sugar beet
molasses, potatoes, and corn created the
perfect storm for Genever production.
High levels of production led to lower prices. These low prices allowed Belgians to
incorporate a drink of Genever into their daily life: In the second half of the 19th century
no less than 9.5 liters of Genever (at 50% alcohol by volume) were drunk per capita and
per year in Belgium!

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THE ORIGINAL DUTCH COURAGE AND MODERN
DAY GIN
Recognizing a good product, the Dutch
integrated Genever into their vast trading
industry from the 17th – 19th centuries. Barrels
of Genever sailed across the seas to trading
partners in all corners of the globe, from the
Americas to West Africa to Argentina, which
remains one of the highest consumers of
Genever outside of Europe.

Genever not only contributed to drinking

palates across the globe – it also created a
slang term still in use today. In many European
wars, the British would notice that before a
battle, the Dutch soldiers could be seen taking
sips from small bottles they kept hanging from
their belts. After these little nips, the Dutch
soldiers fought valiantly, passionately, and
without fear. The English began to call this
battle elixir “Dutch courage.”

The British soldiers took note. Genever

traveled from the battlefield to England where it rose to popularity among the
masses. By 1690 the people of London consumed 500,000 gallons of Genever annually.
The recent arrival of the Dutch king, William of Orange, to the British throne in 1689
sped the process considerably. The new king banned the importation of French brandy
and raised the customs levies on German wine and spirits, ensuring that most of the
distilled spirits sold in England were made by the Dutch.

However, two important changes began to occur. Enterprising English distillers sought
to produce their own version of Genever but they struggled with the recipe. The rich,
whisky-like malt wine was a challenge for the inexperienced distillers around London.
With Genever know-how and expertise tucked away in Belgium and The Netherlands,
the distillers had to improvise. So English-produced Genever eliminated the traditional
malt wine and mixed raw grain alcohol with botanicals. At the same time, English locals,
finding Genever too cumbersome a name to pronounce, gave their new favorite liquor a
shortened nickname. The juniper flavor British drinkers associated with this new drink
also aligned with its shortened nickname: gin.

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Genever’s popularity remained strong in the U.S. In the early 19th century, the export
of Genever to the U.S. was six times bigger than that of Gin.

Many of today’s classic Gin cocktails were originally made with Genever. However,
today it is the English who export their gin around the world while Genever remains in
Belgium and the Netherlands.

Gin edged out Genever in the hearts and livers of American consumers thanks in part to
the introduction of American Prohibition which lasted from 1919 to 1933. During
Prohibition the sale, manufacture, and transportation of alcohol were banned across the
country.

While Prohibition was successful in reducing the amount of liquor consumed, it ignited
the growth of rampant underground, organized, and widespread criminal activity. In
short, bootleggers got to work on homemade alcohol. Gin, compared to Genever and
other spirits, was relatively easy to make by mixing raw alcohol with juniper berry
extract and other flavorings and spices in a large container such as a bathtub (coining
the term “bathtub gin”). These Gins were generally of poor quality and taste, a fact that
gave rise to the popularity of cocktails in which the mixers served to disguise amateur
distilling. The repeal of Prohibition at the end of 1933 ended the production of bootleg
gin, but the damage to Genever’s popularity was already done. Gin had officially
replaced Genever as a key player in the American beverage scene.

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20TH CENTURY
BELGIAN AGRICULTURAL DISTILLERIES DISAPPEAR
The competition from cheap industrial alcohol was a serious blow to farm-based
Genever distillers, whose production was part of a larger cycle of corn and livestock
growth. Faced with competition from industrial producers of cheap Genever, many
distillers cloaked themselves in the argument for quality. They maintained that Genever
should be produced according the “vieux système,” which means on a basis of grain and
seasons. Unfortunately the industrial competition was too strong. Most agricultural
distilleries only survived thanks to the sale of cattle and stable manure and eventually
had to close their doors.

A second blow came to Genever in

1919, when the Vandervelde law
was issued. The law was enacted
as an answer to excessive liquor
consumption, which prohibited
the serving of distilled spirits in
public places and only permitted
the sale of hard liquor on the
condition that two liters were
bought at a time. This was a
prohibitive and costly amount for
the average Belgian worker of the
day. The consumption of
Genever, once the most popular
spirit of Belgium, had officially
begun its slow decline.

To top it off, the World Wars

made life difficult for all aspects of
Europe, including Belgian Genever
production. Invading German
armies stripped Genever
distilleries of copper stills and piping to use the metal for shell casings. This nearly
ground traditional Genever production to a halt, almost ending a national tradition.

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21ST CENTURY
EUROPEAN RECOGNITION
Traditional Genever production is now on the rise. Fueled by national pride and a
renewed passion for regional products, Genever is enjoying a revival.

Recognized for its historic and cultural contribution to Europe, Genever received a
special European Union seal of ‘appellation d’origine contrôlée’ on January 15, 2008.
Translated to “controlled designation of origin” this is meant as a protection for specific
foods and liquors produced in Europe. It was also bestowed on French cognac and
Scottish whisky. This EU designation regulates that only Genever distilled in traditional
regions of Europe – namely Belgium and the Netherlands along with specific regions of
France and Germany – may bear the name Genever. Regulation (EC) No. 110/2008 of
the European Parliament and of the Council of 15 January 2008 on the definition,
description, presentation, labeling, and the protection of geographical indications of
spirit drinks, is the official document in which the full regulation is detailed.

Jonge (young) Genever, often fruit or cream infused, has a passionate following of
consumers. Belgium has entire bars, tours, celebrations, and museums devoted to their
national spirit. Genever is now the second most consumed spirit in Belgium. Traditional
Genever production is back in the hands of the agricultural distillers. Most are family-
run operations who rarely export their craft. It remains one of the best-kept secrets of
the liquor industry.

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DRINKING LIKE A BELGIAN
The Belgians generally sip and savor Genever ice cold. Traditionally Genever is served in
completely full shot glasses that have just been pulled from the freezer. The first step to
drinking Genever properly is to keep the glass on the table, bend down to the glass
and take the first sip without holding the glass. Once this traditional first sip is
accomplished one can drink the rest of the drink normally. Raise your glass and explore
Genever, Belgium’s most celebrated spirit for over 500 years!

FIND GENEVER IN BELGIUM

Belgium has entire bars, tours, celebrations, and museums devoted to their national
spirit.

- Genever Bars
o ‘t Dreupelkot in Ghent, Belgium
www.dreupelkot.be
o De Vagant in Antwerp, Belgium
www.devagant.be

- Genever Museum
o Nationaal Jenever Museum / National Genever Museum in Hasselt, Belgium
www.jenevermuseum.be

- Genever Celebration
o Hasseltse Jenever Feesten / Hasselt Genever Festival in Hasselt, Belgium
www.jeneverfeesten.be

FIND GENEVER IN THE USA

Diep 9, an award winning Genever, handcrafted in small batches at distillery De Moor in
Aalst, Belgium, became available in the United States in 2010. No distillery better
embodies the tradition of crafting an all-natural Genever in a copper pot still than De
Moor, Belgium’s smallest active grain distillery, founded in 1910. www.diep9.com

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ABOUT VERONIQUE BEITTEL
I’m a free spirit, Belgian native who moved to the U.S. in 2002
and became inspired to import Genever after lugging my
beloved beverage back from Belgium one too many times.

My memories of Genever go back to when I was just a little girl.

My grandmother would sip and savor Genever (or Jenever for
those of you who speak Dutch) from a frosted shot glass once a
day before lunch or dinner. She enjoyed the smooth taste and
how it warms you up but also swore by its medicinal purposes.
After all, Genever is a spirit with a history of healing, dating back
to the Middle Ages in Europe. When people realized in the 16th
century that this medicine could be both functional and tremendously fun, the
commercial production of the non-medical market got started.

My first Genever drinking experience was when I was only a teenager at a Christmas
market in Brughes, Belgium. Christmas markets consist primarily of tiny A-frame chalets,
mostly set up around an ice skating ring. They sell primarily Christmas decorations,
Belgian waffles, and appropriately, Belgium's national spirit, Genever. The vendors
would pour the chilled liquor into hourglass-shaped cordial glasses, filling it as close to
the rim as possible without spilling over. This made it impossible to pick up the glass
without spilling and so, per tradition, people took their first sip without using their
hands. Now with the Genever safely below the rim, patrons would raise their glasses in
a toast, saying "Gezondheid!" My fascination with Genever had begun.

After college, I moved to the United States and, after moving around for the better part
of a decade, have settled in Vermont, a state that values local produce, handcrafted
products, and a lifestyle driven by pleasure. Missing my home country and, in particular,
Genever, I founded Flemish Lion LLC, the importing company of Diep 9 Genever, and
created www.BelgianGenever.com, a site dedicated to introducing Belgium's national
spirit to the US. On this site you’ll hear about Genever’s history, how it’s made, and
related traditions, along with other elements of Belgian culture. I’m looking forward to
sharing the taste of my homeland with you. Gezondheid!

Copyright © 2012 by Flemish Lion LLC. All rights reserved.

No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication may be made without written permission.
For info please email: Veronique@FlemishLion.com

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