(DiRect CONNECTION oe R/C F-20 TIGERSHARK ABOUT THE MODEL Congratulations! ‘Thank you for purchasing the mest realistic propeller driven jer-like model, the F-20 TIGERSHARK, from Direct Connection R/C. “The F-20 TIGERSHARK is a high performance jev-like sport scale airplane that is propeller driven instead of ducted fan. ‘This means that no complicated building is required in routing and plumbing a ducted fan unit. Instead, the hit uses standard building procedures. Remember, this is not a beginner's kit and assumes the builder has built at least three kits before this one. The F-20 TIGERSHARK was cesigned to use today's 40.46 engines. If a non-schneurle [ported engine is used then performance may be marginal. Standard schneurle engines work fine jand aerobatic mancuvers are performed effortlessly. Speed is in the 70-85 mph range with these fengines, For those of you who wart maximum performance, hot schneurle motors with runed pipes and retracts wil] push the F-20 TIGERSMARK over the 100 mph barrier and produce Jout-of-sight vertical performance. The kit, however, only kas the mausrials to build the fixed [pear version as will be built by the majority of fliers. Any additional materials needed for retracts or tuned pipe installation are not supplied. ‘The plans and instructions show what is needed and required for recract installation. Please remember that whichever route you decide to lake, the F-20 TIGERSHARK is able to slow down for realistic nose high landings. ‘The kit uses standard balsa and ply construction, The belsa is standard AAA grade with the lexception of two places. By design the F-20 TIGERSHARK uses C-grade or hard balsa Vor the fin/rudder and stabilizer. Don't worry about having a heavy model as it will come lout to its advertised weight. ‘When you receive the kit, inspect all the parts, read the instructions carefully and study the plans before starting to build. Lf deze are any pieces damaged, broken or missing, or if you have la question concerning the kit, please give us a call and we will be glad to help. DIRECT CONNECTION R/C ADINISION OF CAPSTONE HOBBIES 1-800-593-5250F20 TIGERSHARK PARTS LIST #1 FORMER BAG (BALSA) - WIYELLOW DOT 1. F2 i. FHA 1. FSA 1. F6 i RT 1-0 B® 1. FSA 1- FSB 1- Ft #2 FORMER BAG (BALSA} - W/ORANGE DOT 2-0 DA 2- D2 2- DB 2- D4 2-0 DS 2. Dé a. TA 1-0 72 1. TS 1. Ta 2- 1/8" BALSA INTAKE BOTTOM FRONT #1 MISCELLANEOUS BAG - W/GREEN DOT 1+ 1/8" BALSA HEADREST f+ 1/8" BALSA CANOPY FLOOR PLATE 1- 3/16" BALSA WING / FUSE CONTOUR FORMER 1-3/8" BALSA EXHAUST FORMER 1- 3/8 BALSA FRONT WING PLATE, 2-1/8" BALSA WING BRACE. 1-8" X 1/4" X 11/16" X 4-716" RUDDER BOTTOM / TOP REAR FUSE. 2- 3/16" X 261/16" X 2-9/16" INTAKE FRONT 4-8" X 1/4" X 6" BALSA HATCH SIDE SUPPORTS 2- 3/16" BALSA WING TIPS #2 MISCELLANEOUS BAG - W/DARK BLUE DOT 26- V6" X 14" X 8* CAP STRIPS 2-4/8" X 1-3/4" TRIANGLE STOCK 12- 1/16" X 1-13/16" X 2.1/2" SHEAR WEBS 1-64" X 1-1/2" X 8 PLY EXHAUST 1- U8" X 3" X 65/8" SCRAP BALSA 1- U8" X 3" X 5.3/8" SCRAP BALSA 1-8" X 3" X 6" SCRAP BALSAF20 TIGERSHARK PARTS LIST LONG WOOD BUNDLE 2- 2- 2- 2- 4- 5/16" X 1-1/4" ATLERONS 1/4" X 3/4" X 30" LEADING EDGE 1/4" X 3/8" X 30° TRAILING EDGE 1/4" X 36" TRIANGLE STOCK 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" MAIN SPAR HARDWOOD BAG - WIRED DOT 1- 1 Le 1. 1 4- 2- 2- T- 1- 2- 2- 2- 2- 1- Bl WI6" PLY B34" PLY FAB 3/16" PLY F-5B 3/16" PLY F-ll U16" PLY 16" PLY LANDING GEAR BLOCK DOUBLERS LANDING GEAR TORQUE BLOCKS LANDING GEAR BLOCKS 1/4" PLY BOLT PLATE 3192" X 1-3/4" X 4-7/8" PLY WING BOLT PLATE U8" X L-S/8" X 1-13/16 X 27/16" LITE-PLY WING DOWEL PLATE La" X 3" BIRCH WING DOWELS 4/16" X 2" X 6" PLY HATCH TABS 8" LITE-PLY WING TIPS 3/16" X 5/16" X 3° PLY HATCH SCREW BLOCKS HARDWARE BAG 1- 5- 8- 4- 5- S- 4- 14- i3- 2- 1- 2- 5- 1- 1- 4. 4- 1. 2- 4- ENGINE MOUNT 2.56 THREADED RODS 6-32 X 3/4" SOCKET HEAD SCREWS 6-32 BLIND NUTS AILERON FLAGS 3/32" TORQUE RODS: LANDING GEAR STRAPS #2 1/2" SLOT HEAD SCREWS HINGES 1/4" X 20 X 1-1/2" WING BOLTS SMALL TORQUE ROD BEARING (RUDDER) LARGE TORQUE ROD BEARING (ELEVATOR) 2-56 NYLON CLEVISES 5/32" NOSE GEAR BEARING 5/32" STEERING ARM W/SCREW 4-40 X 3/4" SOCKET HEAD SCREWS 4.40 BLIND NUTS 5/32" NOSE GEAR §/32" MAIN GEAR #4 SAE WASHERS: “ieF20 TIGERSHARK PARTS LIST = «+ PARTS LOOSE IN KIT BOX - - = STABILIZER PARTS - 1/4" HARD BALSA 1- 1- 2- $1 $2 $3 RUDDER PARTS 1/4” HARD BALSA 1. 1. 1- R41 R2 R3 R4 RS 3/32" WING RIBS 3-5/8" X 4" X 25" FRONT WING SHEETING V16" X 1-1/2" X 24" TRAILING EDGE SHEETING V6" X 3" X8" CENTER WING SHEETING V/16" X 1-1/2" X 2-3/8" X 13-7/16" FRONT TURTLEDECK SHEETING 4/16" X 11/16" X 1-1/2" X 10-14” REAR TURTLEDECK SHEETING 332" X 4" XS" FUSE / WING CONTOUR SHEETING 3/4” SQ. X 5-7/8" BALSA FIN / FUSE BLOCKS 1/8" X 1" X36" INTAKE TOP SIDE 1/8" X 1" X 20-5/8" FUSE / INTAKE BOTTOM SIDE 1/8" X 1" X 10-1/2" REAR FUSE / INTAKE TOP SIDE 3" X 1-716" X 2-1/16" X23" TURTLE DECK TOP 1/8" X 3° X$-3/16" X 20-14" FUSE REAR BOTTOM PLATE 3/16" X 1/8" X 1-5/46" X 15" FUSE FRONT BOTTOM SIDE 3/16" X 7/8" X 2-1/2" X 10-1/2" FUSE FRONT TO? PLATE 3/16" X 2-5/8" X 4" X 103/16" FUSE REAR FIN TOP PLATE 3/16" X 1/8" X 3-3/4" X 14.5/8" FUSE FRONT BOTTOM PLATE. 3/16" X 1-5/16" X 15" FUSE FRONT TOP SIDE PLATE 16" X X 3" X 27-12" TURTLEDECK BOTTOM PLATE 1/8” X 39-11/16" FUSE SIDES 1/8" X 36-3/8" INTAKE SIDES 1/8" X 27-7/16" INTAKE TOP CANOPY ROLLED PLANS STRAWS 1/8" X 14" X 25/32" LITE PLY WING BUILDING SHIMSCRAP BALSA EXPLANATION The following explanation dals Fe UTS Se connection oft tit Is 02 Miscellaneous Bag shere are three (3) Pieces of UR" balsa referred to as “sorap balsa“ on the paris list, the plans and the instructions, The following will instruct you how to properly cut this 178" balsa so that ‘you will have enough pieces for each sine it is referred to in the tistructions. 1. The 3x6" piece is NOT cut up. eis used for the frons wing bottom contour sheeting to make the front of the wing flush with the bonom of the fuse in Step # 4.73. 2, The plece thar is 3 x 6-5/6" is cut up and used for the comtour stringers on the bottom of the wing, rear and front, in Step # 4.68 and Sep # 4.73. 3. The excess from the 3 x 6-518" piece above and the remaining piece (3 x 5-3/8") is used for whenever ‘scrap balsa” is called (for in the instructions, 1.00 WING INTRODUCTION The following instructions explain how to build the wing on a flat surface, direcily on the plans. The plans show the complete right side of the wing. The left side is only tualf, but shows the optional retract location,’ Back half of the wing is to tbe built over the right side of the plans, with the exception that the right side will be built with the landing gear blocks facing down and the left side wil) be built with the landing gear blocks facing up. 1.01 Prior 1 wing assembly a decision maust be made on fixed pear or retracts. If fixed gear ‘s chosen then ribs W-2, W-3, and W-4 must be modified to eccept the landing pear block. The cutouts are shown ig FIG. 1 on the plaas, If retracts are chosen then ribs W-3 and W-4 must be modified to match the patterns shown in Fig, 2 ‘on the plans (if Hobbico gear is used). 1.02 WING ASSEMBLY {RIGHT SIDE) Fixed gear: Afier modifying ribs W-2, W-3, and W-4 glue the 1/16" ply rib doubler to the outboard sige or wing tip side of W-2 and the inboard sice of wa. 1.03 Retract version: ‘Make coublers as showa in FIG. 2 on the plans and giue them to the inboard sides of W3 and W4, Note Retract Version is shown on left side of wing on plans. 1.04 Both versions: Place the wing plans on a flat building surface and cover the plans with waxed paper, 1.05 Locate the 1/16 x 1-1/2 x 24” trailing edge sheeting and the 1/4 x 3/8 x 30" main spar and pin them in their respective positions on the plans. 1.06 Place all of the ribs over their respective positions on the main spar, but do not glue. Make sure that W-2, ‘W-3, and W-4 have the lanckng gear cutouts facing down. Note: [/ retracts we being ingualled, holes should be drilled in the ribs that will pass retract pushrods at this time, 1.07 With thin CA, glue ribs W-2 through W-10 to the trailing edge sheeting. Do not glue the ribs to the lower main spar ag this time, NOTE: The ribs may clevate slightly from the main spar. This is OK. 1.08 Install and glue the top spar to sibs ‘W-2 through W-10 making sure the ribs ere 90 degrees to the work surface. Do mot lUe the bs to the lower main spar at this time.Lo The trailing edge sheeting pins wil need 10 be removed to place the 1/8" lite ply tapered tvailing edge building shim under the sheeting. Noter the wide erd goes under W-I small ead goes under W-10 (the shim location is shown on the plans). Re-install the pins at this time. This will botamn the ribs out on the lower spar. Small weights may need to be positioned over the 1op spar to ensure the wing siays flat, Double check everything and glue ribs W-2 through W-10 to the iower spar. 1.10 Position the leading edge as shown in the following diagram. It will be helpful to block up one end of the leading edge whnle positioning the other. Note: Since the wing hes a high apc, sanding de fron oF the ribs at an angle to match the taper will allow for # bener fit. Equal overhang top and bettom 1 Cut out the dihedral gauge pattern found on the plans and make a dihedral gauge from scrap balsa. 112 Angle rib W-1 slightly using the dihedral gauge and glue it in place. Note: This gauge is mot used for the left wing, 1.13 Center the 1/8" balsa wing brace on W.2 and the leading edge and glue it in place at this time. Lad Glue the 1/16" balsa vertical grain shear webs to the rear edge of the main spar in all nib bays except the last three. Some of the shea: webs will be too tall since they have been provided oversized, therefore, trial fitting and rimming them own before they are glucd in will save in sanding later. 11s Locate and ghie the 1/8" lite-ply wing dowel plate between W-1 and W-2 at Jocation shown on plans. NOTE: be sure the wing dowel plate does not change the angle of W-1; it will need to be lightly sanded to match. 1.16 Note: In the following steps it is impoctant that the wing is kept flat on the Duilding surface. 1i7 Reposition the trailing edge pins in a way that they can be removed after the top railing edge sheeting is glucd in place. Once satisfied, glue the 1/16" tralling edge sheeting in place. Lig Bevel the front edge of the leading exige sheeting as shown in the following figure. Glue the 1/16" leading edge sheeting in place making sure the front of the sheeting is flush wich the back of the Jeading edge. Note Trim the sheeting to cover half the width of the muain spar. The front edge of the sheeting will not touch the Jeading edge between W-] and W-2. This is normal and will be cu: off later. Bevel this edge FtLig Glue the 1/16" center sheeting in place. The provided sheeting is the correct Tength, but one of the sheets will have to be cut to a taper to match the leading edge sheeting taper. 2.20 ‘The wing can now be removed from the building board and turned over. EF INSTALLING RETRACTS SKIP TO STEP 1.25 121 Trial fit the grooved maple landing gear block in the rib notches. The block Should extend past the bottom of the rib VIG", ‘This is so the bottom wing sheeting ‘will be flush with the bottorn of the grooved landing gear block. Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue the landing gear block in place with epoxy. 1.22 Glve the tanding gear torque block to the inboard side of W-2. Note: The notch will be against the plywood doubler of that rib, 1.23 Drill ¢ 5/32" diameter hole down through the landing gear block and into the notch in the landing gear torque block. Be careful not to drill Gough the top of the wing. 1.24 Test fit the ‘anding gear wire into place, Make sure everything is solidly glucd in place before proceeding. GO 10 SIEP 1,26 1.25 Retraet version: Insiall the 3/16 x 3/8 x 2-13/16" ph retract mounting rails, Glue the rails to pI doublers on W-3 and W-4 with epoxy. Installation of retracts requires customizing and trial fitting, therefore, take time now to plan out the installation. 1.26 ‘Mount the main gear retract and wim the ribs away to clear the retract pushrods, strut, and wheel. Make a wheel well from 3 the cap of a spray can, This works well for 2" diameter wheels. Check the retract assembly for free operation before proceeding, 1.27 Glue the 1/16" leading edge sheeting (fire) and bottom center sheeting (second) in place, taking note where the sheeting will be cut away for the retract. GO TO STEP 1.30 1.28 With the wing upside down, glue the 16" leading edge sheeting in place. Make sure the wing is flat on the surface to ensure a straight wing 1.29 Glue the 1/16" center sheeting in place, remembering to cut and fit around the landing gear block. 1,30 Trim and sand the leading edge to match the contour of the wing. 131 Sand the back edge of the wailing edge sheeting smooth and flat, Glue the 1/4" x 3/8 x 30” wailing edge in place and trim to Jengih. Sand the trailing edge top and botiom to match the contour of the wing, Note: The very back of the trailing edge must be sanded w match the aileron stock thickness (5/16"). 1.32 Using the plans as a guide, cut up the aileron stock into three pants. Mark the pieces as follows: (1) Aileran, (2) Aileron end, and (3) Center trailing edge, 1.33 Cut 2 3/32" groove in the center trailing edge stock to pass the aileron torque tous, Bend the aileron torque rods as shown on the plans. Be sure to make a left and sight. Cut clearance nowhes in the wailing edge of the wing and the center trailing edge stock so the aileron torque rod will move freely. Notes The torque rod horns must exit the top of the wingLM Coat the aileron torque rod with wax or vaseline, Almosi fill the notch in the center trailing edge stock with S-minute epoxy and also put a thin film on the mating edge of the wing. Place the coated torque rod into the epoxied noteh and join to the wing. The center trailing edge slock must line up with the top and bottom of the wing, and not be tilted up or dows. Once the epoxy has dried, no longer than 15 minutes, move the torque rod back and forth to free it from the epoxy. ‘This method produces the best possible Searing for the aileron torque rod to ride in. 1.35 Glue the aileron end in place using tape to hold it in its proper position. Once again, make sure the aileron end follows the contour of the wing and is level with the center tailing edge stock (not tilted up or down). 1.36 Locate the 1/16 X 1/4 X 8" strips of balsa (#2 Misc. Bag). These are the cap strips. Cul cap strips to size and glue on all exposed ribs on the top and botiom of the wing. 137 Sand the dp of the wing flat and glue the 3/16" balsa wing tp in place. Glue the U8" lite-ply wing tp onto the 3/16" halsa wing dp. These Ups are pre-shaped and slightly oversize for positoning, Sand the tip lo match the contour of the wing. 1.38 WING ASSEMBLY (LEFT SIDE} Note that many of the same steps are used in building the left wing, If a step is different than before, it will be hi-lited with abo around it. Follow step-by-step since some steps are in a cifferent order than previously mentioned. 1.39 Fixed gear: After modifying ribs W-2, W-3, and W-4 glue the 1/16" ply rib doublers to the outboard sice or wing tip of W-2 and the Inboard side of W-4. 1.40 Retract version: Make doublers as shown in FIG. 2 on the plans and glue them to the inboard sides of W-3 and W4. 1.41 Both versions: Place the wing plans an a flat building surface and cover the plans with waxed paper. 142 Lovate the 1/16 x 1-1/2 x 24” trailing edge sheeting and the 1/4 x 3/8 x 30” main spat and pin them in their respective positions on the plans. 1.43 Place all of the ribs over their respective positions on the main spar, but do not glue. Make sure that W-2, W-3, and W-4 have the landing gear cutouts facing up. Note: If retracts are being installed, ho'es should be drilled in the ribs that wil pass retract pushrods at this time, Lad With thin CA, giue ribs W-2 through W-10 10 the trailing edge sheeting. Do not glue the ribs to the lower main spar at tnigtime, Notet The ribs may elevate slighty from the main spar. This is OK. 1.45 Tnstall and glae the top spar to ribs W.2 through W-18 maleng sure the ribs are 9) degrees w the work surface, Do not glue the ribs to the lower main spar at this ime. 1.46 The trailing edge sheeting pins wil need to be removed to place the 1/8" lite ply tapered trailing edze building shim under the sheeting. Note: The wide end goes under W-1; small end goes under W-16 (the shim leation is shown on the plans). Re-install the pins at this time. This will botiom the ribs out on the lower spar. Small weights may need to be positioned ‘over the top spar io ensure the wing slays flat, Double check everything and glue ribs W-2 through W-10 to the lower spar.147 Position the leading edge as shown in the Figure in Step 1.10. Te will be helpful to block up one end of the leading edge while positioning the other. Note! Since the wing has @ high taper, sanding the front of the ribs at an angle to match the taper will allow for a beer fit 1.48 Install W-1 at this time. Glue W-1 90 degrees to the building surface. ‘This rib does not need to be angled as in the right wing construction. 149 Center the 1/8" balsa wing brace on W-2 and the leading edge and glue it in place at this time. 1.50 Glue the 1/16" balsa vertical grain shear wehs to the rear edge of the main spar in all rib bays except the last three. Some of the shear webs will be too tall since they have been provided oversized, therefore, trial firing and trimming them down before they are ghied in will save in sanding later. 151 Locate and glue the 1/8” lite-ply wing dowel plate beoween W-1 snd W-2 at the location shown on plans. 152 Note: in the following steps itis important that de wing is kept flat on the building surface. 1.53 Reposition the trailing edge pins in a way that they can be removed afier the wp wraling eaigeshesing i glued in place Once satished, glue the 1/16" trailing edge sheeting in place. 154 Bevel the front edge of the leading ‘dge sheeting as shown in the Figure in S:ep 1.18. Glue the 1/16” leading edge sheeting in place making sure the froat of the sheeting is flush with the back of the leading, edge. Note: Trim the sheeting to cover half the width of the main spar. The front edge of the sheeting will noi touch the leading edge beween W-1 and W-2. This is normal and will be cut off Later. IF INSTALLING RETRACTS SKIP TO STEP 1,60 1.35 Trial fit the grooved maple landing ‘gear block in the rib notches. The block should extend past the bottom of the ribs VI6". This is so the botiom wing sheeting will be flush with the bottom of the grooved landing gear block. 1.56 Onze you are satisfied with the fit, glue the landing gear block in place with epoxy, 1ST Glue the landing gear torque block to the inboard side of W-2, Notes The noich will be against the plywood doubler of that nb, 1.58 Drill a 5/32" diameter hole down through the landing gear block and into the noteh in the landing gear torque block. 1.59 Test fit the landing gear wire into place. Make sure everything is solidly glued in place before proceeding. GO TO STEP 1.63 1,60 Retract version: Install the 3/16 x 3/8 x 2-13/16" ply retract mounting rails. Glue the rails to ply doublers on W-3 and W-4 with epoxy. Installation of retracts requires customizing and tia! fitting, therefore, take time row 10 plan out the installation, 16 ‘Mout the main gear retract and trim the ribs away to clear the retract pushrods, strut, and wheel. Make a whee! well from the cap of a spray can, This works well for 2° diameter wheels. Cheek the rewact assembly for free operation before proceeding.1.62 Glue the 1/16” center sheeting in place, taking note where the sheeting will be cut away for the retract, GO TO STEP 1.64 1.63 Glue the 1/16" center sheeting in place, remembering 10 cut and fit around the landing gear block, 1.64 ‘The wing can now be removed from the building board and tumed over. 1.65 ‘Make sure the wing is flat onthe surface to ensure a straight wing. Glue the 1/16" leading edge sheeting in place. 1.66 Glue the 1/16" center sheeting in place. 1.67 Trim and sand the leading edge to match the contour of the wing. 1.8 Sand the back edge of the trailing edge sheeting smooth and flat. Glue the 1/4 5 3/8 x 30" tailing edge in place and tim to length, Sand the trating edge top and bottom to maich the contour of the wing. Note: The very back of the trailing edge must be sanded t match the aileron stock thickness (5/16"), 18 Using she plans as.a guide, cut up the aileron stock into three parts. Mark the pieces as follows: (1) Aileron, (2) Aileroa ead, and (3) Center trailing edge. 1.30 Cut a 3/32" groove in the center trailing edge stock to pass the aileron torque rods, Cut clearance notches in the exige of the wing and the center trailing edge stock so the aileron torque rod will move freely. Note: The torque rod horns must ct the top of the wing ql Coat the aileron torque rod with wax or vaseline, Almost fill the notch in the center wailing edge stock with S-minute epory and also put a thin film on the mating ecige of the wing. Place the coated torque rod into the epoxied notch and join to the ‘wing. ‘The center trailing edge stock rust line up with the top and boom of the wing and not be tilted up or down. Once the epory has cried, no longer than 15 minutes, move the torque red back and forth to free 3t from the epoxy. This method produces the best possible bearing for the aileron torque rod to cide in, LR Glve the aiferon end in place using tape to hold it in its proper position. Once again, make sure the aileron end follows the com:our of the wing and is level with the center trailing edge stock (not tilted up or down). LTB Lowate the 1/16 X 1/4 X 8" strips of balsa, These are the cap strips. Cut cap strips to size and glue on all exposed ribs on the top and bono of the wing. 1.74 Sand the tp of the wing flat and glue the 3/16” balsa wing tip in place. Glue the 1/8" lie-ply wing Up onto the 3/16" balsa wing tp. These tips are pre-shaped and slightly oversize for positioning. Sand the tip wo match the contour of the wing. 1.75 JOINING THE WINGS Sand the root rib (W-1) of each wing flat and smooth. 1,76 Using 1S or 30 minute epoxy and working over waxed paper, spread an even coat of epoxy on both wing roots, With the landing gear blocks facing down, lay one wing panel flat on the surface and join the other panel using a 2" block under this, panel, Carefully align the leading and trailing edge of both wing panels at the certer until correct alignment is achieved. Use pins to maintain the aligament. Try to join the wings with as little gaps as possible.17 ‘Once the glue has dried any unfilled gaps in the center can be filled with epoxy. 178 On the center front point of the wing, mark the area on the sheeting 10 be removed for the fuselage. This area is shown on the plans snd inthe fllowing drawing. The st way to do this is to Scribe a line with a felt ipped pen all the way around the front point of the wing on the sheeting. Using a Tazor saw or knife, cut this section away. {just ahead of the line. A. sanding block is used to sand the front of the wing to the line 1.79 Locate the 3/8" balsa front wing plate and glue it to the front part of the wing just removed, This plate is provided oversized for positioning. 1.80 Once the glue has dried, sand the front wing plaie to the contour of the wing. 1.81 Draw a centerline on the leading edge of the 5/16" tapered ailerons and the back Of the tailing edge of the wing. Sand the ailerons to "V" using the centerline as a guide as shown below. 182 Lay the ailerons in place in the ‘operings of the wings. Make sure the torque rod is on tap of the ailerons and mark the torque rod locations on the ailerons. 1.83 Drill a 7/64" hole in the aileron to pass the torque rod. ‘The hele is crilled oversize to allow for perfect positioning, when the aileron is glued ata later time. 184 Cut a groove in the leading edge of the ailerons to accept the torque rods. 1.85 Mark the hinge locations on the ailerons and trailing edge as shown on the plas, Use an Xacto fe oc the hinge ots. 1.86 Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fil the ailerons in place on the wing. Do Not Glue the hinges in the wing until after you have covered the model. 1.87 Glass the bottom center section of the wing with $* wide, 2 ounce glass cloth. Glass the top center section of the wing with 7" wide. 2 ounce glass cloth. Apply glass cloth with epoxy or thin CA. 2.00 STAB/ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY Locate the 1/4" hard balsa stab/ elevator parts (S-1, -2, and two S-3's). 2.01 Lay waxed paper over the stab/ elevator portion of the plans. Glue $-1 and $-2 together using the plans as a guide, 2.02 Draw a centerline on the hinge edge of the Stabilizer and the hinge edge of the two elevaiors (S-3), Mark the locations of the elevator torque rods on the elevators and drill a 7/64” hole in the elevator. 2.03 Sand the elevator hinge edge to a "V* using the centerline as a guice. 2.04 Using the plans, mark the Jocations of the hinges on the stabilizer and elevator and cut hinge slots using an K-acto knife. Test fit hinges but Do not install the hinges at this time. This will be done in the final assernbly.2.05 ‘Mark the location where the rudder torque rod will pass through the stab. Make approximately 2 1" round or square opening at this mark. 2.06 Mark the location of the stab/ elevator torque rod bearing and cut both slots in the stabilizer using an X-acto knife. 2.07 Install large torque rod bearings on to torque rods, Using top view of plans, bend and cut a leh and night torque rod to length. Install the nylon elevator contro! homs. Refer to side view of plans and cut threads OF torque rod to length, using wire cutters. Note: if you use a cut-off wheel, the threads must be cut first, then install the aylon control hors. 2.08 Using epoxy, install the elevator torque rod assembly into the stabilizer. 2.09 Sand the edges of the stabilizer and elevator to a radius, SAND No eas 7 FIN/RUDDER ASSEMBLY Locate the 1/4” hard balsa fin/rudder parts (R-I, R-2, R-3, R-4, AND R-5). 3.00 3.01 Lay waxed paper over the fin/rudder portion of the plans. Glue R-1, R-2, K-3, and R-4 together using the plans as a guide. 3.02 Draw a centerline on the hinge edge of the fir and the hinge edge of the rudder. ‘Mark the location of the rudder w:que rod on the rudder (R-S) and drill a 7/64" bole in the rudder. 3.03 Sand the rudder hinge edge to a"V" using the centerline as 2 guide. 3.04 Use the plans and mark the locations of the hinges on the fin and rudder and cut the hinge slots with an X-acio knife, Test fitfin rudder. Do not insial the hinges at this ime. This will be done in the final assembly 3.05 Mark the location of the fuv/rudder torque rod bearing and cat a slot in the fin using an X-acto knife, Install the small wrque rod bearing on to torque rod. Referring to the plans, berd and cut torque rod to length, 3.06 Using epory, install the rudder torque rod inte fia. Sand the edges on the finirudder to a radius except the bostom edge. These will remain flat. SAND DO NOT SANDFUSELAGE INTRODUCTION Before beginning construction of the fuselage, take time to study the isometric drawings located at the back of these instructions, the cross-sectional views at each former location, and the top and side views of the fusclage on the plans. A litle time spent in studying the plans and isometric drawings will ensure the fuselage is built quickly and efficiently. The fuselage docs not use any nose or chin blocks, therefore, no major carving of the fuselage is required. Instead, the fusclage balse is installed in an eight-sided fashion which means only the edges of the shee's are rimmed and sanded w achieve the round contour. A razor plane is very helpful to speed up this operation. Please take the time to sand the fuselage to a good contour, Doing so will produce a clean flying airframe that looks stunning. The original prototype Tigershark was designed to have a removable canopy 10 access tie fuel tank and nose gear as shown in the plans. if you do not feel comfortable with this, an allemate location is shown below the fuel tank. Our prototypes had hatches in either focation. Whichever location you choose will work well. Note: The react version must use a removable canopy 4.00 BUILDING FUSELAGE Locate the two 1/8" fuselage sides and mark the centerline and former Iocations, F-2 thru F-8, on the sides. Note: ‘Be sure you make a left and right fuselage side. 4.01 Locate F-4A (balsa) and F-4B (ply) from #1 Former Bag and the Hardwood Bag, respectively. Glue F-4A to F-4B, using the cross-section on the plans as a guide. 4.02 Locate F-5A (balsa) and F-5B (ply) from #1 Former Bag and the Hardwood Bag, respectively. Note: F-SA and F-7 are very close in size; F-SA is slightly Jonger than F-7, Note that F-5B has a slight curve on the bottom, Ghue F.5A to F-SB, using the plans as a guide. Drill the 14" ‘wing dowe! holes in F-5B using the plans as a guide. 4.03 Locate F-3 (ply in Hardwood Bag). This is the firewall. Mark the horizontal thrustline and the vertical centerline on the firewall, using the cross-section on the plans asa guide, Note: The firewall has 2 top and & bottom. 4.04 Locate the engine mount (Hardware Bag) and tral fit ito your engine. If it does not fit your engine the corners of the engine mounting, rails will need to be filed 10 pass the engine crankeasc, "The front, outside tip edge of engine rails will need to be sanded a very’ slight bit so it does not touch the inside of the fusclage. 4.05 Place the engine mount on F-3 (firewall) at the location shown in the crass- section on the plans. Notice the mount has small marks at its base that are 90 degrees apart. These marks will help you position the mount on the fixewall lines that were previously drawn, 4.06 Transfer the engine mount holes to the firewall and drill the firewall with a #17 ora 11/64" drill, Install the 6-32 bling nuts at this time, 4.07 Drill holes for the throtlle pushrod and a 19/64" hole for the fuel line straws in the firewall (F-3), The location is shown in the cross-sectional view on the plans. 4.08 Fixed gears Locate the nylon nose gear bearing. Using ¢ #23 or 5/32" drill, drill the mounting holes for the nylon nose gear bearing into F-4B (location shown on the top and side view of the fuselage on the plans). Install the 4-40 blind nuts and nose gear bearing at this time. Drill holes for fuel Line straws in F-4A at location shown in the cross-sectional view on the plans.4.09 Retroct version: F-4B will need to be mocifiod for the pessage of the nose gear retract. ‘This modification is shown on the plans in the retract section, Also make the 1/8" lite ply retract flocr using the pattern on the plans, Notice the cut-out in the retract floo: to pass the servo Linkage. Drill holes for fuel line straws in F-4A. Note: The location shown in the plans is for the fixed gear version only. Since the tank is higher, the retract version needs to have the fuel line straw holes higher in F-4A. 4.10 Both verstons: With the right fuselage side on a fiat surface, glue F-S in its appropriate position, 90 degrees to the fuselage side. 41r Tack glue F-2 and F-8 to the right fuselage side. (These formers will develop a slight angle during the next few steps}. Note: F-$ hasa slight curve at the borom, 412 Hold the fuselage sides upright over the top view of the plans and glue F-5 to the left fuselage side maintaining its 90 degrees 10 the side. 4.13 ‘Tape the front and tear of the fuselage sides together using the plans as a guide, Tack glue F-2 and F-8 to the left side, 4.14 Slide F-3, F-4, F-6, and F-7 in place maintaining the proper curve 10 the fuselage sides, Block the fuselage sides with books of bricks wo achieve the correct contour. Note: F-3 musi be drilled for the engine mount and F-43 must be drilled for the nose geer, before proceeding. Also note, F-7 is slightly curved on the botiom. 4.15 ‘When satisfied with the contour, glue formers F-2 thru F-8 permanently to fuselage sides. Refer to Dia, 1 to sce the desired result. 10. 4.16 Glue the fel line straws in the holes previously drilied berween F-3 and F-4. ‘Cut straws to length, 4l7 From 1/4" triangle stock, cut two pieces 24 inches long and lay aside for use in turlledeck construction, 4.18 Retract version: Refer to the retract floor pattern on the plans and make the 3/16” ply retract mounts. Glue these to the retract floor in the tions shown. Drill the mounting holes 7 the nose gear retract into the retract floor. 419 Glue 1/4” sriangle stock behind the firewall on each fuselage side. Referring to side view on the plans for proper depth into fuselage, glue the 1/8" lite ply retract floor berween F-3 and F-4, Glue the 3/8" rriangle stock to the retract mounts and 1/4" triangle stock on each side of the retract floor at locaton shown on plans. Mount the nose gear retract 0 the floor at this tine. 4.20 Both versions: Glue 1/4" triangle stock to rear of F3 on each side and the front of F-4 and F-5 on each side. 4.21 Cut a small hole in each former 10 install the throttle pushrod (location shown on plans), It is recommended that a flex cabie or nyrod is used. 4.22 Referring to Dia. 2, instal the 3/16" fuse front top plate flush with F-2 and let it overhang on F-4. 423 Glue the 3/16" fuse front bottom. plate flush with F-5 and to ihe end of F-2, Now isa good time to locate the position for the nose gear wire exit hole in the fuse front bottom plats, Mark and drill a 1/4” hole to pass the nose gear. Note: If you are installing retracts, the 3/16" front botion plate will need to be trimmed to pass the landing gear wire and wheel.4.6 Glue 1/4" triangle stock to rear of F:3 on the top and bottom and the front of 4 on the bottom, 428 Referring to Dia. 3, sanda eve) into the front of the fusclage sides and the front top and botiom plates to match the angle of the formers. (See cross-sections). 4.26 Glue the wo 3/16" fuse fron: sop side plates and the two 3/16" fuse fron: botiom side plates in place, Do not worry about the overhang into the canopy area at this time. 427 Referring to Dia, 4, glue the 1/16" ply F-1 (Hardwood Bag) t0 the front of F-2. Use F-1 as 2 guide 0 sand the nose contour, As you sand the nose, the canopy area will staré to take a rough shape, Use canopy flocr plate (ff1 Misc. Bag) as a guide and mark the top sheeting 1/4" smaller than the canopy floor plate with a pen of pencil. ‘Trim Wie sheeting ta final shape and sand actoss the top of the sheeting to be even with the top of the fuse. (See side view on plans). 4.28 Using a straight edge across the front and rear of the wing saddle, glue both D-l's and D-4's to the fuse sides. (See cross- sections for placement). Note: All D's have atop ard bottom. Some are very close in size, Take time tm mark all D's. 4.29 Using a straight edge across the back of F-8, glue both D-6's to the fuse sides. 4,30 Locate 1/8" intake sides and mark the locations of D-1 thru D-6 and F-9B on the sides, Be surc io make a left and right side. 431 Place the fuse on a flat surface and block up the intake sides 2s necessary 28 shown in the diagram below. While making sure D-1 and D+ stay flat across the front and rear of the wing saddle, glue the intake sides to the "D* formers. Use the sop view cor the plans to maintain the intake contour. Note: The is different than saddle in the intake sides ‘wing saddle in the fuselage sides from the highpoint of the saddle forward. This is because of the taper in the wing. 4.32 With tape, join the intake sides to F-10 at the rear. Check alignment and glue F-I0 in place. Refer to Dia, 4 to sec the desired results, 4.33 Referring to Dia. 6, glue D-2, D-3, D-5, and F-9B in place. 434 Locate the 1/8" intake top {pre- ontoured) and glue it flush with the back of D-6, Pull fuselage side out to match contour of intake top plate and glue 10 all D's and fuse side as shown in Dia, B. ole438 Refer to Dic. 6 and from the 1/16 x 3x 27-12" sheet provided, cut and install the 1/16” cross-grained sheeting ‘across the top of the fuselage from the front cof F-6 to the rear of F-8. 4.36 Referring to Dia. 7, glue F-9A to the back of F-8 and the D-6's. Not E.QA is 1/16" lower than the top of D-6. (Gee side view on plans). 431 Sand back edge of wing flat to mateh rear of wing saddle, See top view of wing on plans. Temporarily install the wing ino the wing sede of fasclage with wpe. ‘Make sure it is seated correctly before moving on. 4.38 Pin the 1/4” hard balsa stab in place. The rear of the saddle will have to be opened up for stab torque rad bearings to fit in saddle. 4,30 Check the distance from each tip of the stab to te nose, The tips must be equidistant from the nose. Make sure the stab is level with the wing. If itis not ‘evel, shim the stab as necessary. Check alignment again and glue the stab in place. Nate: Siab torque rods must be installed prior to gluing the stab in place 4.40 Refer to Dia. 8. Use 1/8" serap balsa 10 fill the notch in the intake sides on top of the stab. Glue the 3/16" fuse rear fin top plate to the top of F-9A. and F-J0, (Sec cross-sections and the side view on the plans). 441 Ref to Dia. 8 and sand the intake top and intake sides to a bevel to match the angle on the *D* formers. Glue the 1/8° intake top sides in place, flash with the rear of D-6. -12- 4.42 Refer to Dia. 9, and glue the 1/8" rear fuse/imake top sides in place. This strip butts up against the previously insalled strip and on top of F-9A and F-10. 4.43 ‘Mark the locations of T-1 through T+ on the cross-grained sheeting, Glue T-4 in place. 444 Gine the [/4" triangle stock to the sop. of the 1/16" cross-grained sheeting; 1/16" inward from the fuselage edge. The 1/16" turtledeck sheeting (installed later) will glue flush with this edge. (See cross-sectional views of the *T’s"). Also, the triangle stock butts up to T (see side view on plans), 4.45 Glue T-1, T-2, and T-3 in place taking note of the angle of T-1. 4,46 Carefully sand an¢ blend the tangle stock into the "I" formers. Note: More blending is required toward the rear than in the front. 447 Refer to Dia, 10, Locate the four pieces of 1/16" turtledeck sheeting. The sheeting goes on best if the bottom edge is first glued to the turtledeck cross-grained sheeting and the triangle stock. The sheeting will be flush with the fuselage sides, Next, apply slow drying glue to each turtiedeck former and bend the sheeting around the formers. Hoid in place with tape or pins. Note: Toaid in bending the sheeting around the formers, spray glass cleaner with ammonia on the dutsi¢e of the sheeting. 4.48 ‘After the sheeting has dried, sand the top of the formers and sheeting flat. Sand the sheeting flush with front of T-1 and rear of T-4. Sight down the top edge of the sheeting looking for eny hows or waviness. If this occurs, install cross-braces from 1/8" serap to straighten things out449 Refer to Dia, 11. Gluc the 1/4" tustledeck top in place, Sand to final shape (See cross-section on plans). Note: “To keep the top symmetrical, it may De helpful to mark the centers of T-1 and T-6 and draw a centerline between them on the turtledeck top. 4.50 Mark the location on the 3/16" fuse rear fin top plate where the fin will glue. Drill a 1/4” diameter hole through this plate to pass the rudder torque rod, 4st ‘Make sure the rudder torque rod is instatied into the fin and glue the fin 90 Gcgrees io the stabilizer and equidistant to the subilizer tips. Note: You will have to use a rorating action while installing the fin to thread the rudder torque rod throug the hole in the top plate and stabilizer. 452 ‘Tum the fuselage over and install the servos at locations shown on plans. 453 Make up the servo linkages, There is a full size elevator push rod detail an the plans, The rudder Linkage can be seen in both views oa the plans. Nose gear steering uses a flex cable. ‘The flex cables need to be braced every five inches to ensure motion is transferred positively. The formers will need to be notched or holes cut dugg Unio pass the sero Lskages NOTE: The prototype Tigersharks used an antenna tube through the body to route the antenna, Now would be a good time to install an antenna tube, if desired. 4.54 ‘Hook up the servo linkages to the torque rods. Hook up your radio and check servos and linkages for free operation before proceeding. Note: lt is very important that the elevator torque rods are jevel with each other. It may be helpful to temporarily install the elevators, check alignment, and adjust clevises as necessary. Also temporarily install rudder and check alignment with fin, “13. 455 Refer to Dia. 32. Glue the 1/8" fuse rear bottom plate in place, letting it overhang slightly with the front of F-7 and rear of F-13, Do not worry about servo access. A hatch will be cut out later. 456 Glue the 1/8" intake bottom front flush with the rear of D-t and to the fuse side. See cross-sectional view with D-1. 457 Refer to Dig, 13. Sand the fuse rear bottom plate, the intake bottom front, and intake sides to a bevel to match the bottom angle of the "D's", F-9B, and F-10 formers. Glue the 1/8" scrap and the 1/8" fusefintake bottom side in place on each side, 458 Locate the wo 3/16” intake fronts (#1 Mise, Bag). Note: There is a top and a bottom. Large tadius is top, small radius is botlom. Sand the edge that glues 10 the fuselage sides at an angle. See top ee on plas. Glue both intake fronts in e. Glue the 1/16" ply F-11 (Hardwood Bag] to rear of F-10. Using F-l] asa guide, final sand entire fuselage 1o shape. 4.60 MOUNTING THE WING Tum the fuselage over and install the 1/4" ply bolt plate (Hardwood Bag) in Tocation shown on plans. Brace the bolt ‘plate with the 3/8” tangle stock (#2 Misc. Bag). Glue with epoxy. 461 Trial fit the wing in the fuselage ‘Make sure the wing is level with the siabilizer and the wing ips arc equidistant to the stabilizer tps. Adjust the wing saddle as necessary to get a good fit berween the wing ad fselige. “Remove the wing from the Fuselage.4.62 Put a point on the 1/4” wing dowels and install them in the fuselage with the points barcly sticking out into the wing sacdie, Center the wing in the fuselage and push the wing forward ‘until the points mark the 3/8" front wing plate. Use these marks to drill two 1/4" diameter holes through the wing into the 1/8" lite ply wing dowel plate for the 1/4" wing dowels. Glue the wing dowels into dhe wing with S-minute epoxy. 4.63 Replace the wing in the fuselage and mark the locations of the wing bait holes on the aileron stock. Notes This position is behind the aileron torque rods (see side ‘view of fuselage on plans). 464 Drill @ hole through the wing on though the 1/4" ply bolt plate with a #7 or 12/64" drill. Remove the wing and drill the wing only with 2 1/4” drill to pass the wing bolts. "Tap the wing block with a 1/4-30 tap. To strengthen the threads, coat them with thin CA, When dry, re-tap. INSTALLING CONTOUR SHEETING ON BOTTOM OF WING 4.65 Place wax paper between the wing and the fuselage, 4.66 Install the wing in the fuselage but do not bolt down, old 4.67 Refer to Dia. 14. Glue the 3/16" wing/fuse contour former to the back edge of the wing against the fuselage. Note: This piece needs to be slightly modified at its base (side that is glued to bottom of wing} for the wing dihedral, 4.68 Glue the 1/8" scrap balsa contcur stringers to the bottom of the wing. 4.0 Locate the 3/32" ply wing bolt plate (Hardwood Bag). Glue it flush with the back of the wing/fuse contour former. Notes This will not touch the two outside serap balsa contonr stringers. Balsa will be added later 10 bridge this gap. 470 Glue the 3/32 X 4 X 5° fuse/wing, cortour sheeting to the bettom of the contour stringers and to the edge of the 3/32" ply wing bolt plate. Note: This vill not touch the two outside serap balsa contour stringers. Balsa will be added later to bridge this gap. 47 Sand the edges of the oatside contour stringers and the contour sheeting at a 45 degree angle and glue 1/8" scrap sips to bridge this gap. 4.72 Sand the corners to match the contour of the body. 43 ‘Use 1/8" serap balsa and build up the contour at the front of the wing in the same manner as just mentioned. 474 ‘To pass the wing bolts, drill through the 3/32" ply wing bolt plate, using the wing bolt holes (drilled earlier) as a guide, 4,15 CANOPY ASSEMBLY Locate the 1/8" headrest and the canopy floor plate (#1 Misc. Bag).4.76 Glut the headrest to the back of the floor plate at the angle shown on the plans. Note: The canopy floor plate can be placed or. lop of the fuselage in the canopy area and be used 1 help set the headrest angle against T-1. 477 Glue the 1/16" ply canopy screw lates in their proper positions. See sselage top view on plans. Note: If you do not want a removable canopy, an optional hatch location is shown below the fuel tank on the plans. The retract version must use a removable canopy. 4.78 ‘Trim canopy just below the cut line. Trial fit the canopy 10 the floor plate and headrest. Adjust the floorplate and canopy as necessary to get a good fit, 479 Finish the inside of the cockpit with a pilot, paint, ar covering. Glue canopy to floor plate and headrest with your preferred glue. 4,80 Tack glue the hatch tab to the botom of the canopy floor plate. Note that the fhaich tab must be at an angle so thet when the canopy is installed it gets tightar as it is slid forward. If your canopy is too ght then increase the angle. If your canopy is too loose then decrease the angle. 4.81 ‘Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue the haich tab on permanently, 1/8" sorap balsa glued on the bottom of hatch tab will ac ata cheat keep the hetch tab suft, FINAL ASSEMBLY Using the full size servo hatch detail on the plans as a guide, mark off the servo hatch location. Use modeler's pins 10 determine where the internal sides and formers are. 5.00 $.01 Cut out the servo hatch as shown in the servo hatch dewil on the plans, An ‘optional hatch is shown where the rudder and elevator Linkages are as some people might want to access their linkages at some, time. The servo batch is held in place by #2 X 1/2" screws and cutting up the 3/16 X S/16 X 3° ply hatch screw blocks {Hardwood Bag) into smaller pieces and installing therm under the servo batch. 5a Cut a hole in the fuselage to pass the engine, Start with a small hole and slowly enlarge it until the engine slides m and out freely. 5.03 Install the engine mount to the firewall with the 6-32 X 3/4" socket head screws. Temporarily place the engine on the mount and install the spinner and propeller. 5.04 Shim the spinner 1/16" away from the spinner ting (F-1}. Hold in place with tape. Mark the locations of the engine mounting holes of the engine mount Remove engine and mount. Drill engine mount with a #36 or 7/64" drill. Tap engine mount with a 632 tap. Tack glue the balsa finifuse. blocks in place. Sand to match the contour of the turtledeck, Remove the fin/fuse blocks if mt prefer 10 cover them before they are Ingalled permanently, otherwise, glue ‘permanently in place ‘with epoxy. 5.06 LATERALLY BALANCE THE MODEL This step is done before the model is coveted. Temporarily inva the engine, landing gear, and radio equipment. Balance the model left to right. Pick up the mode! off the ground by holding the engine propeller shaft and the center rear of the model. Do this a few times and if a wing ‘tp continually drops off then add weight to the opposite wing ip. 5.07 Final sand everything!5.08 Cover fuselage, tail surfaces, ailerons, rudder, and elevator. 5.09 Giue fin/fuse blocks in place with epoxy (if you haven’t already done so). Be sure fo cut the covering away where the fin/fuse blocks will be glued. 5.10 Cover the 1/8" rudder botiom (#1 Misc. Bag) and glue in place beneath the rudder at location shown on plans. Ss. Glue all surfaces in place using thin CA for the hinges and 5 minute epoxy for the torque sods. 4.12 Using the 3/8" exhavst former (#1 Mise. Bag) and 1/64" ply (#2 Misc. Bag), make the exhaust by wrapping the 1/64" ply arourd the exhaust Yormer and gluing it in place, The 1/64" ply is slightly long and will need to be trimmed. The excess is used 1 glue the seam together. Paint exhaust with silver or black fuel- proof paint. Giue exhaust in place. 5.13 ‘Mount the main gear to the wing using the #2 X 1/2" screws and landing gear straps, 5.14 Install fuel tank. Refract version: Install fuel tank in location shown on plans using scraps from main spars as cross-braces for fuel tank to rest on. 16 5.15 Install all racio gear BALANCE OF MODEL Mark the balance locations on top of the wing, just outside the body. The balance point is shown on the plans and is approximately 5-3/4" back from the leacing edge at the 100% of the wing. The airplane should be balanced upside down on a balancer. The balance of the model can be moved around in the CG marking on the plans. Do not balance the madei behind the CG on the plans, Doing so will make the model difficult and unsafe to fly. _& model balanced in the front edge of the CG mark will have smoother, arrow-like tracking ‘capabilities but will land faster. A model tpalanced in the sear edge of the CG mark will have a snappicr, lighter feel, Move the battery pack around as necessary. The retract version will probably have to add ‘weight to the tail. CONTROL SURFACE THROWS Ailerons: 3/16 - 1/4" up, 3/16 - 1/4" down Elevator: 1/4 - 3/8" up, 1/4 - 3/8" down 5.16 5.17 Notice the range-in-throw difference. “This depends on where you balanced the model in the CG range, A model ‘balanced at the rear edge of the CG will requite less throw than a mode! balanced at the front edge. Rudder: 3/4 - 1" left, 3/4 - 1" right 5.18 FLYING THE MODEL ‘When the F-20 Tigershark is in the ais, take time to get used 10 its profile. The model has a long nose, therefore, much of it roates in the turns. Be patient ard practice ‘one maneuver at a time, learning what the model will do in each situaton, Landings are accomplished by setting, up for a grad base tum into a szaight approach, ‘The F-20 Tigershark bleeds airspeed fast when the nose is up, so be sure you do not stall the model when landing.5.19 FLIGHT TRIMMING THE MODEL FOR BALANCE Onee a aradel is balanced on its CG and laterally balanced (state balanced, it is ready for in-flight trimming (dynamic balance}, True flinht trimming (for balance) should only be done on calm days. 5.20 ‘The model needs to be trim-fiown for level flight and you need to be familiar with the model before trimming for balance. $21 Nose heavy conditions are detected by flying level across the runway at full throtile and dien chopping the turomle, Do this several times to get a valid test. If the plane immediately sinks there is too much nose weight. Ifthe plane continues along in the same flight path for several plane- lengths (until, of course, gravity takes over), the CG is correct. 5.22 Heavy wing-tip conditions are detected by doing loops and pulling straight into vertical. At full throtile, pull straight vertical. True vertical is hard to do so it rust be done several times for 2 valid test. Ifthe model. veers to the right or left this is the heavy wing. It could also be rudder trim, engine thrust, or the split elevators are not equal, It could be a combination of all four, but it's up to you to determine which is affecting the model, Please remember that changing one thing may influence the way another control surface will act. $23 “The recson that state balance differs from éyramic balance is because of buildi and flying reasons, Wing incidence, stab incidence, engine offser, rudder offset, control surface gaps all interact with each other and can determine how well a model fhes. ‘Testing by the flyer must be consistent before any conclusions or changes are made. Examole: If you enter a Joop with the wings not perfectly parallel 10 the ground the model will do a corkscrew. You must enter the loop parallel to the ground before making a conclusion. If you have enioyed building and flying the F-20 Tigershark, we encourage you to see other Direct Connection RIC kits at your local hobby dealer. (DiRecT CONNECTION Toccoa nena R‘NOTE: STAB TORQUE RODS MUST ‘BE INSTALLED PRIOR TO GLUING STAB INFUSE (NOT PICTURED).DIA. 14