Professional Documents
Culture Documents
YO U R S TO R I E S O F LI E N S
PHOTOGRAPHY DARREN GABRIEL LEOW (SINGAPORE); ARTU NEPOMUCENO (PHILIPPINES); HERI B. HERYANTO (INDONESIA) IMAGE SANDRO GROMEN-HAYES, COURTESY OF ELITE EXPED (HONG KONG)
zone” this spring. Débutantes, one of the most home, the restaurants
anticipated society events of you go to and the books
the year. you read. Arashan offers
some sartorial tips and a
look inside her enviable
collection of couture
dresses.
TATLER MALAYSIA
September’s cover
star is Linda Chen,
fashion retailer Bonia’s
stylish marketing
and communications
director, who talks
about her career
journey, how her
evolution as a person
informs her current SHANGLIU TATLER
fashion choices, and This month, Tatler meets
how she thrives in the award-winning actor Hai
face of adversity. Qing, whose latest film,
Return to Dust, sees her play
a victim of abuse in rural
TATLER INDONESIA China, a sharp contrast to TATLER TAIWAN
Rosa Vivien Ratnawati is her previous roles and a Designer Shao Yen Chen, of
the minister of environment statement of her ambitions London-based womenswear
and forestry from the beyond television, where she label Shao Yen, has enjoyed
department of solid waste, made her name. a rise to international
hazardous waste and fashion fame that has
hazardous substances included presentations at
management. In this issue, London Fashion Week,
she talks about how to curating a display window
manage waste in Indonesia for Selfridges department
and how to be an impactful store and a feature in Nicola
leader, especially in male- Formichetti’s pop-up in
dominated fields such New York, and creating a
as politics. bespoke dress for Björk.
He discusses his ten-year
Tatler career and future plans for
12 his brand.
80 66
The Great
Rewilding 104
New dressing rituals
that ground you and
promote spiritual
wellness—and
freedom
124
PHOTOGRAPHY AFFA CHAN (ARTEM) IMAGES NOÉMI OTTILIA SZABO (MODEL), ANTOINE PIVIDORI (CARTIER)
DEPARTMENTS 34 The X Factor 40 The Emperor’s 53 The Weigh-In
12 Around Asia At the latest House Stories, New Groove Claudia Shaw and Derek
22 Editor’s Note four fashion experts Albert and Alex Yeung Chan debate digital versus
26 Contributors discuss the future of reveal the legacy they are in-person fashion shows
176 Alphabet City brand collaborations building with the Emperor
Group 56 Dining Over a Decade
36 To Bollywood Members of Black Sheep
THE SCENE and Beyond 44 At Ease Group share what makes
30 A Dino-Mite Affair Kishore Samtani talks Autopilot founders Antonia them tick
Michelle Ong’s about his new Web3 Li and Harris Chan finally
First Initiative project, Bollyverse step out of the shadows 60 Seriously Though
Foundation throws a Hong Kong’s first and only
palaeontological party 38 The Latest Fashion 50 Shaking Things Up all-femme comedy group is
The man behind digital Bartender Hnin Pwint shaking up the scene
32 A Holiday on fashion company Brand Aye brings flavours of
Home Turf New Vision appears Myanmar to Hong Kong 64 Rhythm of Life
K11 Musea plays host to on an episode of Tatler The Hong Kong Dance
Tatler Louis Vuitton’s Objets TV: Meta Versed 52 Power and Purpose Company premieres a new
Contents Nomades exhibition Jehan Chu reveals his production tracing the
14 catalyst for success roots of Korean dance
September
124
Asia’s Most Stylish
Tatler presents the
Hong Kong list of the
individuals who have made
ripples in the fashion
world this year
76
PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAMS + HIRAKAWA (TSANG) IMAGE SANDRO GROMEN-HAYES, COURTESY OF ELITE EXPED (NIMS)
152
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EDIPRESSE GROUP
Chairman PIERRE LAMUNIÈRE
CFO & COO MICHEL PREISWERK
Vice President SEBASTIEN LAMUNIÈRE
A digital fashion collection by
BNV and Avavav named A Break
From Gravity, which premiered
at Decentraland Digital Fashion
Week last year
Express Yourself
I used to think I was so clever, quoting Oscar Wilde’s If you prefer digital fashion over vintage, then check
infamous line on how fashion was a form of ugliness so out The Scene section this month. The Weigh-In (p.53)
intolerable that we had to alter it every six months. This sees Claudia Shaw from Chanel go head-to-head with
was back in my twenties, with a head full of English Derek Chan from Hong Kong-based Demo on whether
literature and a wardrobe packed with clothes so ill- or not digital fashion shows can ever replace physical
fitting it doesn’t bear thinking about. fashion shows. I know what Richard Hobbs would have
I was very sniffy about style, mainly because I had none. to say about this: when we interviewed the founder
I’ve changed my tune since—and my wardrobe. of digital fashion house Brand New Vision (BNV)
I’ve come to appreciate fashion for its impact and for Meta Versed (p.38), the visionary told us about
creativity; I’ve come to appreciate the difference between his plan to build a whole new virtual world that will
fashion and style, and the key role the latter plays in allow Web3 users to engage with fashion in a way not
self-expression. currently possible.
September is our style issue, and we’ve chosen this These are just some of the many stories in this issue
month to launch this year’s Asia’s Most Stylish list that balance the frivolity of fashion with something
(p.124). The full list comprises 50 individuals across the more compelling and meaningful, due in no small part
regions in which Tatler has a foothold, and the ten Hong to the thoughtful and innovative people involved. As
Kong honourees this year were chosen for a variety of fashion designer Marc Jacobs once said, “clothes mean
reasons: some for their timeless grace, some for tirelessly nothing until someone lives in them”.
pushing the boundaries. Our cover stars Beatrice Ho, Perhaps I’m too fond of inspirational quotes, but
Jenny Tsang and Irene Chu each represent a completely maybe that’s just my style.
different take on the idea of “dressing to express”; each of
them has ample substance as well as style, and we hope
IMAGE ALVIN GOH AND MORGAN HUNG (TSANG)
EVA SZE
Hong Kong-born and
-raised artist Eva Sze uses
ARIANNA PIANCA her paintbrush to capture
Swiss Italian stylist Arianna the beauty and charm of
Pianca started her career NOÉMI OTTILIA SZABO her home city, and created
in Milan, before refining Noémi Ottilia Szabo is our final Alphabet City
her skills in London and a photographer from MIKE PICKLES illustration. She is especially
New York. Since 2018, Switzerland, where she Hong Kong-based fond of acrylic painting
Pianca has lived in Zürich, photographed this month’s photographer Mike Pickles and urban sketching, and
where she works with many fashion shoot. Her career has more than a decade specialises in cityscapes,
different clients, consults started “accidentally” after of experience working for including street views, shop
for smaller local brands a fashion stylist discovered brands including Cathay fronts, heritage buildings
and collaborates with her work on Instagram. Pacific, British Airways and and historic architecture.
large international houses. Since then, she has grown Aman Resorts. This month, She says capturing these
She styled the September her portfolio while building he photographed the scenes enhances her
fashion photo shoot. (p.80) a career working for Bitches in Stitches comedy appreciation of the beauty
international brands and collective in Hong Kong. of her surroundings and
publications. “My main (p.60) encourages her to learn
sources of inspiration are more about the stories of
my model, the light and the the city. (p.176)
location I’m shooting in. It’s
different on every shoot,”
Tatler she says. (p.80)
26
A collective of Hong Kong’s
female comedians takes up the
mic, Antonia Li and Harris
Chan unveil themselves as
the creators of Autopilot, and
PHOTOGRAPHY AFFA CHAN (SAMTANI)
6
1. Amanda Cheung, Michelle
Ong, Jennifer Cheung and
Adrian Cheung 2. Charmaine Ho
and Lucas Lam 3. The star of
the show: a chocolate dinosaur
by chef Smita Grosse
4. Cecilia Yeung 5. The
exhibition featured rare fossils
from around the world, including
this spinosaurus 6. Yvette Ho
and Michelle Ma-Chan 7. Emily
Lam-Ho 8. Rosanna Wong and
Andrew Lau 9. Timothy Yu 10.
Sherman Tang, Ming Ho-Tang
and Christopher Chan 11. Faye
Tsui 12. Lianne Lam, Leta Lau
Tatler and Matthew Lam 13. Gin Lee
The Scene
14. Denise Lo 15. Elia Astorino,
Crisel Consunji, Niu Niu, Gui Li
30 and Wang Liang 16. David Kung
10
9
made, including one by
FIF managing director and
Ong’s daughter Amanda
Cheung, and performances
by piano prodigy Niu Niu
and singing sensation Crisel
Consunji were projected
onto the LED screens
surrounding the dining
area. A silent auction also
had guests bidding on
watches, art and wine in
support of the foundation
and its initiatives across art
12 13 and education.
When Ong herself took
to the stage, she said: “On
this occasion, we have much
to celebrate. Only through
the unfailing commitment
of all our supporters to
uplift our community
can we continue to
provide meaningful
educational experiences
and programmes to benefit
Hong Kong. I wish you all
the most enjoyable day filled
with fun, surprises and
11 14 15 enduring mysteries of the
lost world.”
IMAGES GARETH BROWN/BLOW UP STUDIOS (1, 5) LAM KING YIN (2, 7. 13)
imaginations fly. Vicky Lau In between courses, experience for many in The Scene
A Holiday
4 5
on Home Turf
On July 14, swarms of Lam and Olympic swimmer
the city’s biggest fashion Stephanie Au, each of whom
influencers descended often travels for work but
upon K11 Musea’s Arts and has been grounded due to
Cultural Centre to glimpse the pandemic, basked in
the latest iteration of Louis the transporting nature of
Vuitton’s annual Objets the event, which evoked
Nomades exhibition, a the most exciting aspects of
collection of travel-inspired travel. Both spoke to fans
furniture and objects made and members of the press
by international designers. about their favourite pieces
The invitation-only event from the collection and
saw the sixth floor venue at where they imagined placing
the Victoria Dockside retail
destination transformed into 6 7
a kaleidoscopic wonderland
of blue, pink, green, orange
and purple, creating an
arresting showcase of pieces
and guaranteeing mass
Instagram exposure.
The fashion set showed
up in force: Elva Ni arrived
dressed head-to-toe in the
French brand and posed
alongside the limited-edition
Tatler furniture pieces, holding
The Scene the gaze of assembled
32 paparazzi. Actress Karena
8 9 10
11 12 13
14
at the entrance of the Campana, aka the Campana
exhibition, setting the stage Brothers, delighted the eye
for Asian talent to present and ignited the imagination
the latest innovations in with their pieces, including
home furnishings. the enveloping Bulbo
London-based designers lounge chair (affectionally
Raw Edges returned to known as the Game of
Objets Nomades with Thrones chair among the
their Cosmic Table, a disc Tatler team), the rainbow-
these items in their own of bevelled glass set atop hued Aguacate Multicolore
home. a futuristic, interlocking artwork crafted from
Since the launch carbon-fibre base. Vuitton’s leather straps, and their
PHOTOGRAPHY ANNA KOUSTAS (1, 3, 6, 7, 9, 10, 13, 14)
His pieces were positioned Fernando and Humberto would be impressed. Vuitton’s travel collection 33
3
1
The X Factor
2
marketplace StockX, 2003 collaboration, its vast network within Kim Jones on the brand’s
brand collaborations have which saw Murakami contemporary art to pre-fall 2021 virtual show.
Tatler increased by 200 per cent remodel the French engineer the most relevant Tang-Owen was tapped to
The Scene in the past two years across fashion house’s signature and potent projects, such lead the project and source
34 fashion, art and food and monogram collection with as a recent collaboration artisans from mainland
4 5
7 8 11
the collaboration remains
the same, she said, though
designers must identify
new angles to grab people’s
interest in a crowded
field. “People are so spoilt
these days. They see new
collaborations and new
drops all the time. How
do you get people
interested? I think it’s
9 by doing something
genuine and new. I can’t
tell you how I look for
collaborators. It’s about
the right time, meeting
the right people and the
synergy between us.”
Mak, who has previously
collaborated with Nike
and fine jewellery brand
Emphasis, agreed:
“Collaborations should
always start with mutual
respect and genuine interest
China for the show, which in each other’s craft. The the next generation of
10 was originally slated to goal should be to push talent. “Collaboration is
be held in Beijing. “What innovation forward in a a strategic way to enlarge
we wanted to do was way that both sides haven’t your audience. Look at
reinterpret Chinese craft been able to experience the Fendace collection
in a modern way. I needed before,” she said. [this year’s Versace and
to inject new sensibility Other topics included Fendi collaboration].
into a modern-day context brand collaborations in the These are two houses that
without it [feeling like a] metaverse—a topic that came together and broke
cliche,” she said. prompted Tsui to gush over barriers,” Tang-Owen said.
Later this year, Tang- RTFKT, the Nike-owned “They weren’t competing
Owen will collaborate digital collectibles studio; with each other. Creativity
with accessories brand how collaborations with came first. We’re on the
Kipling. Though details bigger labels threaten tip of the iceberg for Tatler
are still hush-hush, the the creativity of small collaborations, and there is The Scene
To Bollywood
and Beyond
Business magnate Kishore Samtani’s love for Indian Akshay Kumar and Salman
cinema has entered another dimension. He talks Khan were among the
1,300 guests in attendance
about his new Web3 project, Bollyverse, and how he at a five-day extravaganza of
epic proportions in Phuket,
plans to take it global By Tara Sobti. Photography by Affa Chan Thailand—billed as the
largest wedding ever to be
When Kishore Samtani stars, buy from India’s manufacturer and held in the country.
was a young boy living biggest designer brands, global distribution firm Samtani understands
in Mumbai, the world’s and experience the glitzy for products from hair the value of community,
most prolific centre for world of Bollywood by straighteners to hoodie a concept central to the
film production, the interacting with celebrity blankets and toys for metaverse, as well as how
influence of Bollywood avatars. children, now staffed film, dance and music bring
was all around him. The The idea has taken off. by a team of 140 across people together. “I chose
creative energy of the In June, Samtani flew Hong Kong and mainland Bollywood because that’s
industry excited Samtani, to Abu Dhabi for the China. While making his my strength. I want to get
and the magic of theatre International Indian Film name within commerce, all of Bollywood together.
and the possibilities of Academy Awards, for which Samtani retained his love We aim to eventually have
the worlds that could be Bollyverse was the official for Bollywood and passion partnerships that will give
created would inspire him metaverse partner. His team for promoting his home us access to 2.5 billion
as an adult to launch a new captured content from the country’s culture and fans. We are bringing this
project to bring his beloved stage rehearsals, red carpet heritage. Since 2003, he has revolution to the masses
Bollywood into the arrivals, award ceremony, brought Bollywood stars in India and beyond,
Web3 era. backstage and after party. to Hong Kong as part of connecting brands and
In March, Samtani Using an avatar studio touring stage versions of consumers,” he says.
launched Bollyverse, and 3D motion tracking, hit films, including Diwali Beyond the Bollyverse,
a one-stop source of Bollyverse incorporated Dreams, Chandni Chowk to Samtani already has his
entertainment for all every angle of the event to China and Da-bangg. sights set on a long list
Bollywood lovers in the create an interactive live “Until 2019 [before of new projects, one of
metaverse, meeting a performance experience Covid hit], I was putting them being an educational
need in the space he felt that will eventually be on a show every year. I course on the world of
was unfulfilled. “Indian available on the Bollyverse have a love for Bollywood, Web3 to encourage younger
representation is important. platform. and put on these shows to generations to learn about
Now, everyone will get to Samtani’s latest venture keep our culture alive in the metaverse so they, too,
experience the richness leverages his connections Hong Kong, especially for can tap into its potential.
of Indian culture in the within the Indian film the younger generations. He says, “The virtual world
metaverse,” he says from industry, achievements in When Indians go overseas, is moving in parallel with
New York in July, where he business and prominent we sometimes forget our physical world. What the
was attending NFT NYC, status within Hong Kong’s roots,” he says. Throughout internet was 20 years ago
a Web3 symposium. In the Indian community. After his career, he has fostered is what the metaverse is
Bollyverse, users can attend moving to the city in close friendships with today, and it’s important
movie award shows and 1989, Samtani became Bollywood stars: when for [young people] to
Tatler concerts from the comfort a consumer goods his eldest son Kunal got understand how our world
The Scene of their own homes, play entrepreneur, founding married to Divya Vaswani is changing. I need to
36 virtual reality games with TV Products HK, a in 2018, Bollywood icons work fast.”
Kishore Samtani
is taking his love
for Bollywood to
new heights
| Meta Versed |
The Latest
Fashion
One man has a brand new
vision for the metaverse, and
it could make a world of
difference to the luxury scene
By Jacqueline Tsang
the real-world elements of got your wearable—they or it may need to be dry- promise. Now, Hobbs just The Scene
the fashion industry and can see it’s from this cleaned,” Hobbs said. “With has to build it. 39
Albert Yeung
and son Alex
are celebrating
the Emperor
Group’s 80-year
anniversary. The
duo look back on
their journey to
the top
| Time Travel |
The Emperor’s
New Groove
In May, Alex Yeung was appointed vice chairman of the Emperor
Group. As the family business celebrates its 80th anniversary,
Yeung and his father Albert tell Tatler about the legacy they are
building By Tara Sobti. Portrait by Simon Schilling
When Alex Yeung joined his family to open in 2023. and share their proudest moments
business in 2009, he knew exactly Now Alex has taken up the reins and biggest career mishaps.
what he was getting himself into. as the company’s third-generation
After all, he practically grew up leader, he hopes to take the business ALBERT YEUNG, CHAIRMAN OF
in the Emperor Group’s offices, to new heights while continuing EMPEROR GROUP
and spent every chance he could his philanthropic efforts in youth How did you first get your start in the
learning the tricks of the trade from development and protecting the family business?
the man who knew the company business’s storied history and legacy. In 1942, my father, Yeung Shing,
best: his father and the chairman In celebration of the Emperor opened the Shing On Kee Watch
of the group, Albert Yeung. Alex’s Group’s 80th anniversary, the team Shop on Shanghai Street in
recent appointment as vice- is launching a virtual tour this Kowloon. In 1964, I opened the
chairman comes as Emperor Group autumn that will be accessible to Observatory Watch Shop on
is celebrating its 80th anniversary, everyone, in collaboration with a Nathan Road and, eventually, set
giving the Yeung clan two reasons local social enterprise. The tour up the brand Emperor Watch and
to celebrate. will take viewers on a journey Jewellery to consolidate the business
Founded in 1942 by Albert’s through time to witness how the following the success of those
father Yeung Shing, Emperor group has played a defining role two shops. We have grown into a
grew from a small watch shop in in the history of Hong Kong, with diversified conglomerate consisting
Kowloon to an integrated group projects in locations including The of six listed companies on the
with diversified business units, Pulse, Repulse Bay’s beachfront Hong Kong Stock Exchange, with
which include property, financial shopping centre, and the revitalised our business footprint spanning
services, watches and jewellery, commercial complex 4 Kin Fat Lane across Hong Kong, mainland China,
entertainment, culture, hospitality, in Tuen Mun. Macau, London and Southeast Asia.
digital media and home living. “From Time to Timeless’ is the
The group fared well during slogan for our 80th anniversary,” What has been your proudest
the pandemic: despite challenging says Alex. “The number 80 has accomplishment so far?
economic conditions, the team meaning too: eight is a symbol of I am proud of the team spirit of
expanded the Emperor Cinemas infinite loops and zero is a circle my colleagues, which is amazing
business into The Lohas in Tseung that has no beginning and no end. considering the significant size of
Kwan O, Times Square in It’s a reflection of how our business our group. A number of our staff
Causeway Bay and The Venetian units work together as one.” For the across different business units have Tatler
in Macau. A new theatre brand, first time, the father-and-son duo sit been working shoulder-to-shoulder The Scene
Emperor Cinemas Plus+, is also due down for an interview with Tatler with me for decades. We owe our 41
success to our people. My children
and I are in close contact with not
only our existing staff, but also those
who have retired.
What’s the best piece of advice your Do you have any secret hobbies?
father ever gave to you? I am a great fan of movies. It’s my ALEX YEUNG, VICE-CHAIRMAN
The importance of integrity, loyalty, favourite pastime. I usually watch at OF EMPEROR GROUP
respect and impartiality towards our least one movie per week at home; Did you always want to work in the
friends. Also, that you cannot simply it’s like stepping into a dream. That family business?
judge a person by his appearance, is why we invested in the movie When I was little, I would go to
status or line of work. This piece industry: to offer people a window dad’s office to pick him up from
of wisdom has helped me cultivate to experience an alternative reality. work. I would run around the
lots of goodwill and helpful The first movie I invested in was office to help deliver documents. In
connections, which contribute to back in the 1970s called Encore, primary school, I already knew what
the success of our group. My father starring Danny Chan, Leslie “HR” and “accounting” meant.
was the best mentor I had. When Cheung and Mary Jean Reimer. I would often hear dad chatting
I was a child, I would follow him about business with the other senior
to his business meetings, where I What is your hope for the future of members of the family. In high
would learn first-hand the art of Hong Kong? school, my summer holidays were
doing business. He taught me to be Having been rooted in Hong Kong spent interning with the company.
generous without worrying about for 80 years, our group has gone The group has always been part of
return, and that sometimes, today’s through many historic moments my life. It was only natural that I
loss can lead to tomorrow’s reward. with the Hong Kong people. Hong chose to join straight after college.
Kong has always been inclusive,
What was your biggest career failure open and diverse, and its people Growing up, did you ever feel there
and what did you learn from it? always see opportunity in adversity. was a certain expectation of you?
In 1983, I over-leveraged my business I am confident that there will Yes, and this very expectation has
and plunged into insolvency. After be many more opportunities become my motivation. The most
Tatler an extremely difficult time, I finally for success in Hong Kong as the important thing is to make sure I’m
The Scene managed to save my business from economic growth roadmap of doing my part and the rest will fall
42 being liquidated by the banks, all mainland China unfolds. into place.
1. Albert Yeung at his
father's shop, Shing On
5 Kee Watch Shop, in the
1950s 2. Albert and his
wife Semon Luk with
son, Alex 3. The duo at
a corporate basketball
game in 2019 4. Alex
attends a ceremony
for the Emperor Group
in 1993 5. Alex aged
six, accompanies his
father on a business trip
6. Alex is particularly
passionate about youth
development 7. Albert
with many of his former
staff. The chairman takes
pride in their close bond
8. Albert celebrates
the completion of the
4 6 Emperor Group Centre in
Wan Chai in 1993
has always been my role model. He virtual community in The life is not determined by sheer luck, The Scene
plays doctor and fireman every day Sandbox, which has a venue for but by one’s will to be a winner. 43
Antonia Li and Harris
Chan are taking the Hong
Kong apparel scene by
storm with their athleisure
brand Autopilot
Tatler
The Scene
44
At
Ease
After launching athleisure
brand Autopilot incognito,
friends-turned-business
You hear it all the time: never mix business and
friendship. But childhood friends Antonia Li and Harris
Chan aren’t phased by this adage at all. Last year, the duo
co-founded Autopilot, a brand that blends activewear
with everyday attire, designed for people on the go.
In just 12 months, the Autopilot brand has released
four collections, and has become known within Hong
Kong’s fashion-savvy circles for its gym-to-cocktails
approach to dressing. With functional layering as its core
concept, Autopilot has found fast fans among members
of the Tatler community including Patricia Tung-Gaw,
Faye Tsui and Lindsay Jang, who have all embraced the
partners Antonia Li and brand’s “one-minute transformation” style of dressing.
Harris Chan finally step The brand focuses on three areas: performance—
using innovative fabrics like ultra-smooth Japanese
out of the shadows for an wakayama mesh and Ceravida Fresh, a chemical-free
antimicrobial and anti-odour garment-coating
exclusive interview with Tatler technique; transition—for easy, pull-on items such as
By Tara Sobti. Photography by Affa Chan sheer, colour-blocked maxi skirts; and layers—which
involves fashion-forward pieces designed to elevate any
look. Think military-inspired boleros, windbreakers
and trench coats with pockets big enough to fit an iPad
in them.
When Tatler interviewed Chan and Li in June, the
pair had, until then, remained largely anonymous.
Despite living in an age when social media has made
privacy a commodity, only their inner circle knew they
were behind the Autopilot launch. “We wanted our
products to speak for themselves without us being part
of the narrative. It’s our one-year anniversary now and
our presence is growing, and we feel it’s the right time to
come forward,” Li says.
Although Li and Chan were first introduced in
London in their late teens by friends Alison Chan
Tatler
The Scene
45
“No one should have to
give up their workouts
or rich social lives simply
because their clothing
can’t keep up” — ANTONIA LI
El-Azar, Edward Tang and Chan’s godsister, Queenie serviced clients such as Lily and Bloom, Estée Lauder
Rosita Law, the duo’s family connection predates this and Mr Porter. “[With branding], it’s all about how you
encounter: Li’s mother, Sandra Wong, is an intellectual want to convey yourself. It’s very similar to fashion,”
property lawyer who worked on a case for Harris’s father, says Li, who is now in charge of creative direction and
Boby Chan—who, along with Harris’s mother Shirley, marketing for Autopilot.
co-founded womenswear brand Moiselle in 1997. Chan’s background in fashion from his studies at the
Much like their clothing, there is an ease to Chan London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins,
and Li’s friendship. “I’ve always admired Antonia’s and experience managing Moiselle equipped him well
HAIR AND MAKE-UP WENDY LEE (ANTONIA LI) HAIR MARK IP MAKE-UP EVELYN HO (HARRIS CHAN)
perspective and talent. We have a deep connection and to run the day-to-day operations and strategic planning
we respect each other’s dreams,” says Chan, who is also for this new venture. Moiselle and Autopilot’s customers
CEO of Moiselle. Li agrees: “I’ve always admired his differ, but Chan likes the challenge of designing for each:
work ethic [with Moiselle] and we like bouncing ideas “[Working on both] benefits each brand. One minute,
off each other. He’s my work husband, and he gives me I’m thinking like Gen Z, and the next, like a young, chic
the space and freedom to create.” mom. It’s fun and keeps me on my toes.”
The pair made the decision to go into business In June, Autopilot moved into its first physical
together during a hike in 2020. “Harris asked me: location: a 1,000 sq ft shop at K11 Musea. In July,
‘What do you think women will want in the future?’ the brand’s second store opened on Queen’s Road
and I thought, people need outfits that they can wear Central and, later that month, it dropped its new
throughout the entire day: outfits that encourage pre-fall collection, this time featuring men’s pieces for
exercise and support a hands-free and handbag-free the first time.
lifestyle. How do we make [dressing] easy for people? No That the brand is going from strength to strength is a
one should have to give up their workouts or rich social sign that the pair have found a niche in the market and
lives simply because their clothing can’t keep up,” Li says. customers are responding to smart, fuss-free designs that
For Li, launching a fashion brand was a new simplify busy routines. “Nowadays life is very stressful.
experience, but her master’s in entrepreneurship and Between social media, the news, Covid-19 and work, it’s
Tatler marketing, and a background in branding gave her a just too much,” says Chan. “With our designs, we want
The Scene foundation. In 2014, with her best friend Ruth Chao, to make people’s lives better. The clothes aren’t
46 Li founded digital creative agency Indicube, which has just pretty; they’re useful too.”
Autopilot clothing
is designed to be
stress-free, elevating
every look and
encouraging exercise
Amy Lo Upfront with
PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHANIE TENG STYLING TASHA LING HAIR NICOLE BURAK MAKE-UP JAIME SMITH AT SMUDGEMAKEUP ARTISTRY SET DESIGN ZOE TSE
of Environmental, Social and
Governance (ESG) factors across
There has been a sea change in investment.
investment trends in the last 24 UBS’s Q1 2022 global investor
months. “Previously clients would sentiment survey revealed that
ask, why should I invest sustainably? the majority of investors cited
Now they ask, how can you help me sustainable investments as one
invest sustainably?” says Amy Lo. of the most attractive sectors to
Sustainable investing is invest in in the current geopolitical
something that Lo has advocated for situation, while according to the
many years, well before it became bank’s global family office report
the buzz phrase it is today. And the 2022, over half of the family offices
fact that investors are finally coming made sustainable investments in
round to the proposition is clearly a 2021. As of December 31, 2021, UBS
welcome change. sustainability focus and impact
“Finance has a catalyst role investing assets had grown by 78 per
to play to help solve some of the cent YoY to USD 251 billion.
biggest challenges in the world. Sustainable investing, however,
That’s our corporate responsibility,” is not a home run. Greenwashing—
says Lo. “And as the largest global where companies try to appear more
wealth manager, UBS is in a sustainable than they really are—is
position to lead and shape and to a major challenge. But it’s one
mobilise wealth for public good.” that Lo believes can be addressed
In September 2020, UBS made by increasing ESG resources
the landmark decision to make and expertise to screen and vet
sustainable investments its preferred investments. With over two decades
solution over traditional investments of involvement in sustainable
for private clients wishing to invest investing, Lo said the bank has a
globally. “At that time, it was a key role to play in helping to create
very bold announcement and common standards that will provide
Tatler commitment,” says Lo; UBS was the clarity on what is expected. Greater
48 first global wealth manager to do so. regulatory guidance and clarity on
St. John blouse,
with consultancy Earth Security to
Iris & Ink suit, create The M40 Initiative. This aims
Buccellati earrings
to support mangrove conservation,
which is vital for climate change
mitigation, by providing innovative
finance opportunities around
projects that protect and restore
coastal ecosystems.
The global pandemic has shone a
spotlight on other investment areas,
including digital transformation
and healthcare. With regard to
the latter, UBS’s Oncology Impact
Fund 2 (OIF 2) was launched in
October 2021 following the record-
setting success of OIF 1 in 2016, and
invests in companies developing
innovative treatments for cancer
and other serious diseases.
For Lo, when it comes to
committing to sustainability, it’s
not only what UBS can offer. “As a
firm, we need to walk the talk. We
are committed to achieving net zero
by 2050 and to mobilising capital
towards investment in a low carbon
economy to assist clients in this
journey.” Within the Hong Kong
office, Lo is dedicated to doing
what she can to raise awareness and
affect change. Examples of recent
initiatives include committing
to purchase locally produced
renewable energy until 2025 and
launching a zero-paper campaign.
“We need our colleagues on the
floor to feel that they themselves are
also making a difference.”
Lo is optimistic about the future
and the potential of sustainable
standards, definitions, disclosure The areas and themes drawing investing. “I believe we can make
and data, which are currently the most interest include energy— a difference. While UBS and the
lacking and have proved a barrier to specifically clean and renewable; finance sector are not going to
sustainable investing, will also help. food security due to the food single-handedly change the world,
For clients looking to invest disruption caused by the pandemic what we can hopefully do is ensure
sustainably, UBS has identified a and the Russia-Ukraine conflict; the necessary solutions get faster
shift in Asia-Pacific from exclusion and, as more data is created, and better with more innovative
portfolios, where investors simply cybersecurity. funding, and we fulfil our roles in
avoid investing in companies With the ever-increasing impact society as custodians of wealth. As
that do not meet ESG criteria, to of climate change, investment in the I always tell our clients, we are only
ESG integration, where these environment is perennially popular. the custodians; it’s about how we
factors are at the core of the In November 2021, UBS and its leave a better world for the Tatler
stronger. 51
| Power and Purpose |
Jehan Chu
have been born into with extremely capable
a time and place that people who help bring to
allowed me to focus on life the things I dream of.
my dreams rather than on
simply surviving. In venture capital, as in
In 2013, long before it became a love, there are always
mainstream concept, Jehan Chu Being helpful is my number
one ingredient for success—
“the ones that got away”.
There are so many great
if you can add value and companies and founders
Here, he reveals his catalyst for solve problems, people which I should have
success By Tara Sobti will always come back.
We did extensive work
invested in but didn’t,
like Bitmex, Binance and
on the [blockchain-based Animoca, in the seed
the arts. He is a former service network] BSN for rounds. I didn’t have either
art advisor for Sotheby’s almost a year before we the time, focus or money
both in New York and even invested. We have a to make the investment. I
Asia. In 2008, after leaving close relationship with BSN don’t regret missing these
the auction house, he because we were helpful investments, though. I’m
founded Vermillion Art first and foremost. grateful for the founders
Collections, an art advisory Second is to be clear I backed and how many
company that helps about your own path. The of them have achieved
private individuals and best founders are not only incredible success.
corporations manage their skilled and resilient; they
collections. He also served have an internal clarity of Recently, we’ve started
on the board of directors purpose. The better you backing innovative funds
for non-profit art and know yourself, the more like the female-led Nural
design organisations Design successful you will be. Capital, which invests in
Trust and Para Site. When Number three is to be top crypto funds. We also
he’s in a really good mood, humble. Nothing is more back crypto funds like
you’ll find him onstage, humbling than thinking Kestrel0x1, which was
putting his auctioneering you’re a genius on Monday, founded by a number of
A former front-end skills to use by energising and then seeing a 70 per [US tech company] Palantir
developer, Hong Kong- audiences at charity events. cent drop in your market, employees, and Digital
based Jehan Chu has, Here, he reveals how which seems to happen Asset Collective, which is
to date, invested in and luck and mindfulness have every Tuesday in crypto. in partnership with Venture
supported more than 230 impacted his life, and why Humility is not only about Souq [an investment service
crypto projects. he didn’t invest in major managing my ego; it’s in the UAE]. We have also
Since launching blockchain firms like Bitmex, Binance also about trying to help been incubating great ideas
venture capital and crypto or Animoca when he had others and appreciating like Ioconic, which brings
trading firm Kenetic, the chance. the value in growing my Web3 to large brands, and
Chu has gone on to found community. Gourmeta, which tokenises
the Ethereum Hong I invest in and support the dining experience. We
Kong community, and founders who are building I’m an ideas guy. It’s what are taking a major bet on
co-found both the Bitcoin the future of Web3 and energises me and it’s the BSN, and think we can
Association of Hong Kong crypto technology. My possibility of something help Hong Kong claim
and the Hyperledger Hong company believes that new that wakes me up a seat as the blockchain
Kong community. He blockchain technology is every morning. My father centre of Asia by being the
is a graduate of Silicon the next internet and that, always teased me about home for BSN.
Valley’s Kauffman by imagining the future my eyes being bigger than
Fellows Program, which and guiding or backing its my stomach, and it’s the Mindfulness is a big part of
is designed to accelerate founders, we can help the same with my ideas. I don’t how I deal with the stress of
innovator success, and world take its next step into have the ability to execute daily life, and I’m a long-
is also the co-founder a natively digital age. everything I imagine. time supporter of vipassana
and a board member of My daily challenge is meditation [a form of
Social Alpha Foundation, Luck has been the key reconciling what I dream Buddhist meditation].
a blockchain and social catalyst for me. I’m lucky of with what I can actually I’m not religious, but it’s
impact non-profit. that my parents encouraged do and, more importantly, helped me get through the
Tatler When he isn’t making independence and making sure the things I do toughest times when my
The Scene strides in the Web3 space, imagination and supported are done well. luck ran out and I needed
52 Chu dedicates his time to my education. I’m lucky to I have surrounded myself to keep going.
The Weigh-In
Claudia Shaw, head of style advisory for Chanel Asia-Pacific, goes
head-to-head with Derek Chan, founder and designer of Hong
Kong-based menswear brand Demo, in this month’s great debate
Are
digital
fashion
YES shows NO
“Social media is “There’s a palpable
part of our everyday energy at physical
lives. The audience fashion shows that
any
for fashion shows has grown digital shows can never replicate.
from just a specific group of It goes beyond the spectacle that
fashionistas to people from all represents the fashion show—
over the world. Today, as long as the dramatic sets, the lights,
substitute
you have a smart device, you can the music, the models—and
enjoy a runway show, regardless embraces the creativity that is
of where you are. Nowadays, a the essence of fashion itself. In
show’s audience is mainly online person, you are swept into the
for
anyway, as physical show venues highly charged atmosphere. You
are limited in capacity. Digital get caught up in the rustle of
shows are now being developed the fabrics as the models strut
physical
to look realistic too, thanks to along the runway. You hear the
advancements in technology. gasps of amazement when an
Since they are virtual, ideas that exceptional piece of clothing is
cannot be executed in real life presented, and you sense and
fashion
can now be digitally presented, respond to the vibe of the models,
pushing the creative boundaries who bring the clothes to life.
even further. Designers can bring That’s the advantage physical
a whole new show experience to fashion shows have: they’re
shows?
PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA KHO (SHAW)
The Scene
53
Dining Over
a Decade
As they celebrate their company’s ten years in the industry,
members of Black Sheep Group share with Tatler what makes them
tick—and what to expect next By Kee Foong. Photography by Tory Ho
On a busy Friday night last June, police marched into needs to be protected.” It’s a scene that has “gone beyond
dozens of hospitality venues in Hong Kong to check food. Some people come just for the food and wine,
compliance with contentious new Covid-19 rules as others appreciate the design or the vibe; restaurants are
shocked staff and patrons watched helplessly. Among now a total package”, Mark adds.
them was Carbone, a popular New York-Italian-style For Black Sheep, that package is a growing
restaurant known as much for its theatrical swagger as its community of more than 30 restaurants employing
spicy rigatoni vodka and veal parmesan. about 1,000 staff; one that has shaped hospitality with
As the police were leaving, an officer said to Jack its ballsy approach to dining and service. Not bad for a
Gonsalves that they hoped not to have to return. Quick pair of upstart entrepreneurs who, a decade ago, decided
as a flash, Carbone’s longstanding general manager to “do something a bit stupid and take on some of the
quipped, “I hope you will come back, but next time conventions that weren’t right in the industry”, as Mark
for dinner.” The officer laughed, breaking some of the puts it.
tension. They felt that restaurant workers were undervalued,
Gonsalves and his team then went into high gear and that restaurants had short life cycles and were
to turn the mood around, including sending out frequently rebranded to satisfy the public’s urge for
complimentary champagne and dishes. Guests thanked something new, or to add the name of an overseas
him for skilfully handling the situation, and kicked on, celebrity chef with no connection to the city or its diners.
testament to the loyalty that this industry veteran and “We wanted to build institutions that lasted, where
the restaurant commands. staff could attach themselves to a restaurant narrative
Weeks later, Tatler is at Carbone meeting Christopher and foster a sense of community,” says Hussain. In that,
Mark and Syed Asim Hussain, co-founders of hospitality they have been successful, with only two closures over
collective Black Sheep Group, which owns the venue, to ten years. Staff retention rates are high, with many long-
talk about their decade in business, and they’re sanguine. term employees working their way up the ranks.
While the incident shows how “impossibly difficult” it Among them is Gisela Alesbrook, head chef at Hotal
has been to operate in recent years due to social unrest Colombo, an eatery serving piquant dishes from her
and the pandemic, the pair are upbeat as they assess the native Sri Lanka. Alesbrook’s ascent is typical of Hussain
city’s hospitality scene. and Mark’s willingness to give people a go and reward
Tatler “Hong Kong has had a restaurant renaissance in talent. With little training as a chef, she became part of
The Scene the past 15 years,” says Hussain. “We have world-class the opening team at their first restaurant ten years ago.
56 operators, chefs, designers and a hospitality scene that Impressed by her staff meals, they promised she would
Clockwise, from
above: Syed Asim
Hussain and
Christopher Mark;
Gisela Alesbrook;
Jack Gonsalves
run her own Sri Lankan restaurant one day, which she personalised reply. In the most serious cases, Mark and
took as a joke until it happened three years ago. Hussain will attempt to call the person to make amends.
One major change Alesbrook has seen in the industry According to Hussain, “A lot of people who are now
is greater diversity. “When I started, I was the only our best guests started off with a complaint. This has
female chef, but now there are more—though it still often been the first step in what becomes an amazing
needs to improve,” she says. The lack of female chefs is an relationship or friendship.”
issue the world over, but she is heartened that the group Playing a key role in the elevated guest experience
is slowly appointing more women in senior positions; it is Marc Hofmann, who joined the group in 2015 as
now has six female head chefs. Most noteworthy is the an intern and has risen to become managing director.
recent hiring of ArChan Chan at Ho Lee Fook, one of Among his biggest lessons is that “there are no difficult
the first women to helm a high-end Cantonese kitchen guests. If we start with the idea that guests are more
in Hong Kong. difficult, then we should stop doing what we do.”
Tony Ferreira, who has been with the group for nine That pearl of wisdom came from Gonsalves at
years and was recently made partner, believes that Black Carbone, who observes that “expectations are much
Sheep has raised the hospitality bar significantly in Hong higher than before, and there’s little room for mistakes”.
Kong. “We operate at a very high level of consistency, He puts the change down to social media and online
with a willingness to go above and beyond. We go back review platforms, as well as greater diner knowledge.
to the fundamentals of hospitality, like guest recognition He also believes, however, that most diners don’t go
as soon as you step through the door.” out to eat in the hope of being disappointed. “You don’t
Service is taken very seriously at Black Sheep. Every go to a restaurant to give staff a hard time; you go to
Tatler Monday, the leadership team review the previous have a good time. If things go wrong, it’s because we
The Scene week’s feedback and complaints. Every guest (use of the haven’t taken the time to understand what the guest
58 word “customer” is forbidden) who writes in receives a wants. I never say ‘no’ but will go out of my way to fulfil
From left:
Tony Ferreira;
ArChan Chan;
Marc Hofmann;
Matthew Kirkley
a request.” The only rule for guests, meanwhile, is that Several openings are in the pipeline, including one
abusive behaviour towards staff won’t be tolerated. in London, but biggest of all is The Magistracy at Tai
Respect for staff is central to how they operate, say Kwun. Occupying the site’s historic former courtrooms,
Mark and Hussain, pointing out that no redundancies the project will launch in three phases starting with the
were made for financial reasons during the pandemic. Dining Room, due to open to the public this month. Its
Employees are paid above the industry average, have towering ceiling, period detailing and leather banquettes
a five-day work week and receive health insurance, a recall fashionable brasseries such as The Wolseley in
benefit almost unheard of in the industry. The group London. Overseeing the European menu is Matthew
has a new canteen in Soho that could be mistaken for a Kirkley, who won three Michelin stars at two different
hipster café or co-working space, and offers free meals restaurants in the US before moving to Hong Kong.
throughout the day, along with shower and changing Mark sees The Magistracy as the group’s “magnum
facilities. opus”, while Hussain says “it shows how far we’ve come,
Black Sheep revealed exclusively to Tatler that, later from working in decrepit basements to now, where the
this year, it will launch the Family Fund, which will city of Hong Kong is trusting us to bring monuments
be open to the wider community. Originally set up to back to life”.
provide grants and interest-free loans to employees, it Looking to the future, Mark and Hussain see short-
is now open to anyone with a permanent Hong Kong term challenges, but longer term, Hussain says, “It will
identity card. Applications will be reviewed by an be fantastic because we have an incredibly sophisticated
independent board, with priority given to healthcare community of diners. We are social creatures, and
and education needs. A percentage of group sales, and restaurants are the last non-digital frontier as everything
a portion of Mark’s and Hussain’s salaries, will fund else moves into the metaverse. We are part of Hong Tatler
the initiative, with a minimum commitment of HK$10 Kong’s new culture, and when people talk about the The Scene
J
enna Hudson remembers her early days of doing against cisgender men, who make up the majority of
open-mic stand-up comedy in Hong Kong. When the performers, bookers and audience. “We were an
one of her sets didn’t go well, rather than being afterthought,” says Ayala.
bothered by the audience’s silence, she was frustrated At a queer comedy night in 2018, Ayala finally found
at how much unsolicited advice she was offered by herself on the line-up with femme comics: Hudson,
the other comedians, who were mostly men. On one Rose Rage, Dannie Aildasani and Bianca Lau. They
occasion, one of them took out his phone as the next decided to work together on a single, “all-femme” show:
comic began his set and told Hudson to time how in this case meaning women, those who identify as cis,
often someone from the audience laughed. He said she femme-presenting or transgender individuals. It meant
needed to make people laugh every couple of seconds. they could put on a show that would appeal to their
“It was just crushing,” she says. “I felt like I wasn’t community, and that didn’t require validation from
being taken seriously. If I was one of the guys, they’d be people who might not understand the type of humour
like, ‘Ah, you know, you had a bad show.’ But because I they were presenting. It also meant being surrounded by
was femme-presenting, they were like, ‘I’m gonna help comics who had had similar life experiences. Because,
you present [your set], you poor girl who needs my help.” while the unasked-for advice from male comics was
Hudson isn’t the only one who feels she has to fight always kindly meant, as Aildasani put it, “they don’t
to be taken seriously in the industry. Fellow comedian realise how condescending it feels”.
Tatler Francesca Ayala says there has been little room for The initial six-member Bitches in Stitches debuted in
The Scene female, transgender and queer comics. They all had April last year at a sold-out gig at Central pub Bobby’s
60 to compete with each other for a spot at a paid gigs Rabble. In the roughly 18 months since that first
Clockwise, from top left:
Jenna Hudson, Bianca
Lau, Francesca Ayala
and Dannie Aildasani
performance, the group has
put on 21 sold-out shows
and now has 13 members.
When the group spoke
with Tatler in July, it was
busy with another sold-out
show at Terrible Baby, the
music lounge and bar at
Kowloon hotel Eaton HK,
and preparing for another
show in August. “It went from
one show to a movement,”
Ayala says.
Ayala says she is surprised by
the group’s success. People who
attend Bitches in Stitches’s shows are
many and varied: as well as reflecting
the femme nature of the troupe, the
audience commonly includes other
members of the LGBTQ+ community as well
as straight men on a date—they are often picked
on the most during the shows. “But they end up
laughing,” says Ayala.
The group is proud to have brought laughter and
created a sense of belonging to the community. Hudson,
who joined Bitches in Stitches last September, thinks
what sets it apart is how tight-knit and supportive it
is, especially in terms of her teammates’ constructive of women or female-identifying audience members in
criticism and encouraging, appreciative attitude. “We’re the local comedy scene compared to New York.
not just a collection of people,” Hudson says. “It feels like “If you want more people to love comedy, they
we’re a troupe with the sole purpose of putting need to see themselves represented,” Ayala says. She
on amazing shows and making people laugh and refers to the longstanding debate in Hollywood as to
feel included.” whether women can be funny, and whether women are
The group now organises stand-up comedy a different kind of funny. But at a time when the world
workshops once a month, in which the team offers is recognising more than a binary gender norm, and a
a safe space and advice to new comics who want to range of sexualities in the world, she believes that it’s
practise, fine-tune their sets and, when ready, perform time to change the way comedy has traditionally been
professionally with the team. done and have a rotating line-up of comics of different
The group’s other mission is to open dialogue on backgrounds and identities. “There’s a time
diversity and, having increased representation on stage, and place for turning a person’s identity into a
expand their audience base. Lau, a full-time actor and punchline, which can be funny, I get it,” she says. “But
comedian who started stand-up comedy as a hobby in inclusivity means that there’s not one authority to say
New York and was one of the first members of Bitches in who’s funny and who isn’t [when] that’s not your identity
Stitches, says that men historically used humour to woo or area of expertise.”
women, who weren’t meant traditionally to be funny or Aildasani says she has heard a lot of men complain
powerful. “Now we’re no longer staying in the kitchen that female comics make too many relationship jokes.
cooking and cleaning. We have jobs, multiple jobs even,” “But it’s not our fault that guys do so much crazy s***
she says. “The dynamic has changed.” that we can all do an hour-long stand-up special based
When Lau moved to Hong Kong in 2020, she not only off our dating lives,” she jokes. Besides, male comics
Tatler faced the challenge of adapting her material for the local deliver their fair share of relationship jokes too, so it’s
The Scene audience—jokes about catcalling or driving no longer only fair to “get two different sides of the coin”.
62 worked, for instance—she was also shocked by the lack The diversity extends from the identities of the
health during her mid-twenties
when she was struggling with
alcoholism, and helped her cope with
feeling inferior to a more popular sibling,
and hopes next to talk about eating disorders and
body image. “I took all that had happened to me and
turned it on its head. If I’m laughing at myself, you can’t
members of the troupe to the content of their jokes. Rage laugh at me first,” she says. “My humour and comedy
draws on her personal experience as a trans woman; are a suit of armour.” Aildasani, a production editor,
Aildasani deadpans about being an expat in Hong Kong says her aggressively people-pleasing personality led her
and ridiculous work relationships; Ayala confronts her to do stand-up comedy. Ayala, who works in marketing
audience with uncomfortable topics such as period sex, and public relations, says what they’re doing is to make
and the racial microaggressions she and other Filipinas people look at the world through their eyes, and to make
endure; Lau turns trauma and unconventional life people empathise with them because they’re different.
experiences into jokes; and Hudson finds inspiration in The name Bitches in Stitches may suggest a loud,
depression, alcoholism and the banter she has with her feisty and provocative group, but Hudson has a different
family back in England. explanation of their intentions: “If what I talk about is
As well as being a tool for trumpeting diversity, big and personal to me, then it’s very big and personal
comedy brings this group of performers personal solace. to other people [too]. At the end of the day, what better Tatler
Hudson, a primary school teacher, uses it as a way to way to connect with people than to trauma-bond The Scene
Rhythm of Life
The Hong Kong Dance Company premieres
a new production which traces the roots of
Korean dance By Zabrina Lo
In the rehearsal room of Since it was founded previous dance dramas,
the Hong Kong Dance in 1981, the HKDC has Myth of the Dancing Durumi
Company’s (HKDC) been pivotal in staging isn’t structured as a story.
Sheung Wan studio, a folk dances, such as those It is a double bill made
group of female dancers from Yunnan and Xinjiang, up of a number of dance
sit cross-legged on the the Uyghur and Tajik sequences portraying the
floor. Their arms, toned by communities, and the Han daily life of the Chaoxian
years of training, strike the and Tang dynasties. It is also people. Of Sun, Rain and
edge of the drums with a known for adapting classic Our Land, choreographed
gentleness that makes the Chinese literature and by Jin, reflects agriculture,
instruments almost hum. legends, such as The Legend traditional customs and
Their bodies heave up and of Mulan, Pu Songling’s nature; the second half,
down with their rhythmic The Moon, choreographed
breathing, as if responding by Han, is an abstract and
to the heartbeat-like drums. contemporary take on
This might not be the the Korean witchcraft rite
first thing that comes nae-rim gudd, in which a
to mind when someone shaman invokes a spirit to
mentions Korean dance; a attach itself to his or her
more likely mental image body to perform miracles
is the hip-hop music and and cure the sick.
contemporary dance
movements of K-pop. But
the city’s biggest Chinese Xie met Jin Yinghua, a
dance company traces the Chaoxian dancer and
roots of Korean dance in its choreographer from
new production, Myth of the Yanbian. Xie recalls that she
Dancing Durumi, which runs saw a woman in her forties
from September 9 to 18. twirling on the stage while
The production took her traditional dress spun
four years to prepare. It around her in ripples. “I
will be the first time the was captivated,” Xie says. In
company presents works a similar fashion, HKDC’s
by Chaoxian dance artists; artistic director Yang
the Chaoxian people, classic ghost story L’Amour Yuntao met Han Hyolim, a
recognised as one of China’s Immortel, and The Three dancer and choreographer
56 ethnicities, are ethnic Kingdoms, to dance. from Seoul, at one of Han’s
Koreans who have been Before the pandemic, shows in 2016 and was
based in mainland China Xie Yin, the company’s mesmerised. Xie and Yang
for generations. Most assistant artistic director, decided this was a great
live in Yanbian, a region used to travel frequently opportunity for a new
in northeastern China for research. In Xinjiang in cultural exchange between
Tatler bordering North Korea and 2018, at an annual dance Hong Kong, Seoul and
The Scene Russia; some emigrated to festival featuring different Yanbian.
64 South Korea. ethnic dance groups, Unlike the company’s
Myth of the Dancing
Durumi. Opposite
page, from top: Xie
Yin; Jin Yinghua;
Han Hyolim
The production has Chaoxian people as more part of nae-rim gudd, will couldn’t afford a doctor,”
two main goals. First, subtle: the dance moves be removed, and the focus she says.
to highlight the way the are softer and their bodies instead will be the motif With HKDC, Xie
female dancers carry fold inward. She adds that of the moon. Han says is committed to the
themselves, their hand Chaoxian farmers live she wants to dispel the company’s goal of studying
gestures and the way near rivers, so their dances general impression that and presenting dances
they move their limbs, depict the celebration of shamanism is associated from different cultures,
all of which demonstrate the harvest at new year with dark magic. “In which she believes also
Chaoxian women’s as an act of praise to the Korea, it’s our belief that reflect their foods, lifestyles
femininity, which in turn deities, or as the rituals of shamanism is connected and evolution. “All kinds
evokes the image of a shamanism in summoning to abundance and peace,” of ethnic dances are
durumi, the elegant red- the spiritual world. she says. beautiful,” she says. “I want
crested crane. Secondly, Han adds that Chaoxian Xie believes most folk to show Hong Kong that
the performance is meant dance has a long history dances represent people’s [the dance scene] isn’t only
“to trace the details of of being performed at the desire for peace and a about contemporary dance
people’s lives”, says Xie, royal court. The concept of good life, and sees a or ballet.”
who coordinates the western modern dance was common thread between This ambition also
show. She explains that introduced to Korea in the the Chaoxian dances and reflects what she holds to
every folk dance reflects early 20th century from those from Hong Kong, be every dancer’s desire to
a civilisation’s connection the west, where there was despite the contexts pursue beauty in its myriad
with the natural landscape a movement against the and movements being forms. What she finds
on which the people balletic dance traditions to different. She gives Tai Ping beautiful about Chaoxian
depend. look at dances from other Qing Jao, a Taoist ritual for dance isn’t merely the
For instance, nomads cultures or spotlight social thanking the gods, and grace of the dancers’ body
in Xinjiang live on plains issues through dance. Since the Tai Hang Fire Dragon movements, but also how
and plateaus and in then, Chaoxian dance Dance, performed to stop a the people find peace and
deserts, which is why has been expanded and plague in the 19th century, happiness from the simplest
their folk dances involve diversified in its creative as examples. “It’s the of things. “We city-dwellers
opening the body to the presentations. In this same for Chaoxian dance: today can learn a thing of
IMAGE LEUNG MO
sky to demonstrate awe Hong Kong production, villagers in the past turned two from ethnic dances Tatler
for natural elements. In the ritual of drinking pig’s to their shamans when dating back hundreds of The Scene
contrast, Xie describes blood, which is sometimes they were sick because they years,” Xie says. 65
It’s a
Small
World
After All
Egg tarts, temples, the Blue House—there’s
nothing these Hong Kong miniature artists
can’t make, as they immortalise the city’s
disappeared sights as teeny-tiny models
By Zabrina Lo. Portraits by Affa Chan
For the month of July, the top floor Journey into the Past and Present
of Central Market was turned into Urban Reinvention, which captured
a wonderland in which everything the modern and old sights of the
had shrunk. There was a miniature city’s 18 districts from a 12:1 to 750:1
Wan Chai Blue House with real-life ratio. The exhibition, currently in
details as intricate as the numbers Tokyo, will tour to Seoul before
and symbols marked on the wooden returning to Hong Kong in
staircase and a criss-cross network November for another showcase for
of electrical wires mounted on the two months.
building’s exterior; a downsized Carmen Poon, founder of the
Wing Wo Grocery on Wellington Joyful Miniature Art Association,
Street with more than 100 tiny which organised the exhibition,
bottles of vinegar, soy sauce and thinks that miniature art is a great
rice wine; a toy shop selling plastic way to promote Hong Kong’s
“watermelon” footballs found in cityscape and culture to the world.
the 1970s; the now-closed Kam Kee “In the 100 steps from one side of
Bakery, which used to sell old-style the exhibition hall to the other, you
Chinese pastries; and the King of can get a brief introduction to the
Kowloon with his calligraphy. city’s history, food, transportation
Tatler These are only a few of the 100 and everything,” she says.
The Scene pieces featured in the city’s biggest Miniature art isn’t new. European
66 miniature art exhibition, An Art royals and elite families in the 17th
A street with an old-
style teahouse. Inset: A
miniature model of the
King of Kowloon Tsang
Tsou-choi practising
calligraphy
explains that only the bestselling
items would be placed at the front
of the store, something he replicated
in his model. “The shop’s layout
and arrangements were a result of
the shopkeeper’s experience and
From top: Tim
Kwok-tim Ho wisdom. It is with tiny details like
(left) and Ian Choi these that you can make out what
Pik-lung; Vivian
Lee; Carmen Poon. life was like in the past.”
Opposite page, Recreating a set with historical
clockwise from
top: reading comic accuracy is no easy feat, but the
books in a street;
the staircase in
artists have a bag of tricks to
Central Market; help them. Ho and Choi are civil
Wing Wo Grocery
engineers accustomed to working
on scale models; Ho likes to find off-
century, particularly in Germany, the-shelf materials such as correctly
the Netherlands and Britain, would proportioned buttons or beads to
commission carpenters to make mimic plates and balls, while Choi
dollhouses, a move which indicated uses a 3D printer to create the more
their elevated social status. In Asia, complicated pieces such as the faces
Japan is home to netsuke, one of of the tiny people who populate
the earliest forms of miniature some of the models. Vivian Lee,
sculptures, also dating back to the who runs a studio where she teaches
1600s. art and made the Kam Kee Bakery
Today, there are miniature model, is an expert at moulding
collections, exhibitions and intricate clay shapes, which she
museums around the world. Poon paints with oil paint and nail polish:
has noted that most of them focus tiny roasted geese, Chinese New
on major global tourist attractions Year candy and pots of tangerine
and famous fictional scenes. She trees. Other artists use technology
gives the Miniatures Museum of to add to the visual effects, such as
Taiwan as an example: it exhibits an LED panel of fireworks in a mini
models collected from Europe and Victoria Harbour.
the US, such as one of Buckingham These elaborate sets would make
Palace and another showing scenes their creators a tidy profit if sold
from classic fairytales such as Jack as home decor or to collectors, but
and the Beanstalk. most of the pieces in the exhibition
When miniature art came to are not for sale. They are a true
Hong Kong a few decades ago, labour of love: as well as taking
Poon, who was a publisher at the months or even years to make, these
time, observed that artists here were miniature artworks are more a
keen to localise the style and subject means of bringing back childhood
matter. She says, “We have cha chaan memories than making money. Ho,
teng, grocery stores and food streets, who is in his 50s and lived adjacent
which are very local and [relatable].” to the Wong Tai Sin Temple for 30
She adds that the level of detail years, says he combined the current
and combination of architectural Wong Tai Sin Temple’s design with
and geometric considerations with memories of an almost disappeared
fantastical designs is very impressive. written on the wooden staircase, bamboo forest and a hawker stall in
Take, for example, the Blue and each household would place his model of the temple.
PHOTOGRAPHY AFFA CHAN (PORTRAITS)
House set created by artists Tim their waste bucket next to their Lee, whose speciality is making
Kwok-tim Ho and Ian Choi Pik- corresponding number. “There miniature food, says that miniature
lung, who captured seemingly used to be a ‘nighttime fragrant art is a more tangible and therefore
random historical details of the lady’, whose job was to clear the better way to preserve history than
grade-I listed building. Ho says buckets,” he says. “Obviously, other art forms such as painting.
Tatler that, before flushing toilets were everyone wanted to make sure that She enjoys seeing grandparents
The Scene commonplace in Hong Kong’s they got their own buckets back.” huddling over her teahouse model,
68 tenement buildings, numbers were As for the Wing Wo Grocery set, Ho telling the younger generation
about the disappeared treats they chief executive Carrie Lam, the elderly people who live alone. The
loved. “It’s a great conversation consul-general of Japan in Hong oldest participant was 89. Marvelling
opener across generations,” she says. Kong Okada Kenichi, and Japanese at the size of their materials like
“Miniature things catch your eye, photographer Tatsuya Tanaka, who schoolchildren a fraction of their
regardless of whether or not you’re each bent down to appreciate the age, they kneaded the fluffy clay
an artist.” sets and seemed spellbound by dough into cha siu buns the size of
Twenty years ago, before Lee the exhibitions. Poon recalls, “It’s a fingertip, fit the buns into mini
became a miniature artist, she was like they forgot their positions and bamboo baskets, and gingerly
window shopping when a miniature immediately became children.” set them next to tiny teapots and
cake in a shop that sold bric-a-brac These days, apart from organising pea-sized Chinese teacups. As well
caught her eye. The trinket cast a exhibitions, Poon also hosts as a creative avenue, the workshop
spell on her, so much so that she miniature art workshops specifically also offered a chance to bond over
started taking classes and moved designed for children, elderly shared nostalgia.
into miniature art as her profession. people, ethnic minorities and While the pieces Poon focuses on
Today, Lee and Poon’s miniature people with disabilities, including are tiny, the impact of her work is on Tatler
art has the same magical effect on one in July on the day of Tatler’s a far greater scale. As she puts it, “My The Scene
VIPs as well, such as the former interview for a group of about 15 purpose is to bring people joy.” 69
Each month, Tatler invites a photographer
to introduce their favourite image—this
month, Hana Forrest By Lauren James
A
s well as capturing a place or
moment in time so it won’t be
forgotten, photography can be
a bridge—to the future, or perhaps
to other people—as Hana Forrest
found when she took this picture,
which she describes as “cinematic
and surreal” on a rainy day in
summer 2019. To her, this scene is
a more meaningful representation
of the city than the usual neon,
skyscrapers and crowded streets.
“Bridges are a significant symbol
of Hong Kong and represent its
constant movement,” she says.
“Hong Kong [has] myriad people,
ideas and places, and to me, this
photograph represents its mystery,
melancholy and beauty, but also
its constant movement and its
separate yet connected areas.”
This bridge—Kap Shui Mun
between Ma Wan (Park Island)
and Lantau—now holds a special
significance for Forrest. Last
year, spurred by the time to
reflect afforded by the pandemic,
she formed Hong Kong Photo
Collective, a creative network for
photographers, which she envisions
as “a community for learning,
showcasing talent, networking,
adventure and creativity”. She
organised a first outing to the same
spot this photo was taken, a location
that has come to “symbolise the
start of new chapters”, she says.
“The image is a reminder that
[we live in] a city of many altered
states, changing emotions and
identities. But it’s also a place
that never fails to surprise you; a
city that offers up new ideas and
opportunities if you keep searching.
Tatler “No matter how rainy the
The Scene day, just jump on a boat or the
70 tram and see what happens.”
Fade Out City (2019)
up with Lify. We gained investment
in Hong Kong and started creating
prototypes.
acts like a personal wellness coach: I wanted to find out what was going
we ask 20 questions about your on in my body, so I pursued a course
Tatler wellness needs, and we recommend in TCM public health. I wondered:
The Scene a drink based on guidance from do people really know what their
Generation T is Tatler’s platform for young
72 health practitioners, including body needs? That’s when we came leaders shaping Asia’s future. generationt.asia
From top: The Polaris
with Purple Vibes
Necklace; The Lunar
Hare Brooch
Celestial Jade
For his latest collection,
the master storyteller
Austy Lee turns his eyes
heavenward for inspiration
and Korea—that the rabbit lives on the moon. named the Purple Forbidden Enclosure. 73
The standout trends
we love from fall-winter
2022; why the resale
market is blossoming in
Asia; and an up-close-and-
personal chat with Serena
Williams
Style
Chanel Eternal No5 necklace in
18K beige gold and diamonds.
Opposite page: Tim Ryan Knit
dress; By Far shoes
PHOTOGRAPHY NOÉMI OTTILIA SZABO (FASHION SHOOT)
STYLE
NOTES OF NOTTINGHAM
Following the launch of Paul Smith
Home last year, the brand’s first home
fragrance collection is now here. The
British designer has created four scents
based on his most evocative memories
and named after his personality
traits. Our pick? Bookworm, a scent
formulated with Jamaican pimento
IMAGE PAOLO FICHERA (FENDI)
PET PROJECT
Gucci’s inaugural line for pets is eco-friendly Demetra material
here and we can’t get enough of and recycled cotton, includes
it. Designed by creative director everything for our fluffy family
Alessandro Michele, the collection members, from collars, leads,
dedicated to dogs and cats launched feeding bowls and carriers
with a campaign photographed adorned with GG-canvas
by Max Siedentopf. The massive to made-to-order couches
range, which incorporates Gucci’s for pampered pooches.
FURTHER NO MORE
Fendi is growing its commitment
to ecologically friendly practices
while maintaining fur as a key
component of its DNA. With the
updated version of Fendi First,
first seen on the autumn-winter
2022 runway, the Italian maison
repurposes left-behind pieces of
fox fur from previous processes.
These are sewn together into a
patchwork using a technique that
results in imperceptible seams. This
initiative pays homage to Fendi’s
history of fur use, while offering a
solution as to how fur, controversial
in some circles, can be integrated
more mindfully into fashion.
Tatler
Style
77
| First Things First |
Steven Stokey-Daley
Meet the latest LVMH Prize winner, the breakout star who found
a fan in Harry Styles and is queering school uniforms By Cherry Mui
fabulous hat adorned with dried schoolboys in wide-legged shorts, knitwear featured ducks, this
flowers. rugby shirts and jacquard silk bath mixing is proving popular.
Tatler The relationship didn’t end robes—all references to the attire Behind the artistic concepts is an
Style there: Lambert went on to style of the privileged classes, and all intense focus on craft, localism and
78 SS Daley’s second post-graduation rendered in a dusty pastel colour sustainability. “From the start, my
fashion. He applied for the fashion
design degree programme at the
University of Westminster on a
whim, sharpening his skills at Tom
Ford and Alexander McQueen.
Now he undertakes the process of
designing clothes as in the same
way as someone writing plays. “The
way we used to approach theatre
was workshopping real-life ideas
into something you can repeat
again and again and have different
influences of different theatrical
practitioners,” he says. “We [at SS
Daley] do the same thing—we
approach design from a narrative
perspective and then incorporate
SS Daley fall-winter the ideas of different practised
2022 collection. crafts in a similar way.”
Opposite page:
Designer Steven His latest collection, for autumn-
Stokey-Daley winter 2022, was inspired by English
stately homes and the class divide
of “upstairs” and “downstairs”
lives. Each look takes its cue from a
different period of English history.
There are trench coats cut with
exaggerated balloon sleeves and
printed 18th-century etchings of
birds; leather waistcoats
paired with briefs,
hinting at a half-dressed
houseguest; and striped
shirts printed with
17th-century drawings
of poppies. SS Daley also
introduced womenswear
this season, but bringing
queer possibilities to
the British wardrobe
has been the core of
the brand since the
beginning—another
contradiction found in
the house ideology. “My
whole thing is freedom of
expression and freedom
to actually wear whatever
design processes have been to look how we can regenerate old items you want to wear,” says Stokey-
back in order to move forward, so like English tea towels into wearable Daley. “I don’t feel as though we are
we reference vintage quite a lot—not shirts with tonnes of character,” trend-driven at all.”
IMAGES CHRIS YATES (RUNWAY MODELS)
just vintage garments, but vintage he adds. The one-off shirts made As Stokey-Daley continues
practices or lost, forgotten crafts from embroidered tablecloths, for bucking trends, his upcoming
that were of an age or time,” says example, are bestsellers. show and collection will celebrate
Stokey-Daley, who has been using As a 14-year-old obsessed with his love of performance—he was
deadstock fabrics donated from drama and literature, who spent also a keen dancer as a child—as
London houses for his creations. a summer at the National Youth well as folkloric references and “a Tatler
“We also [are making] a really steady Theatre, Stokey-Daley never historically documented lesbian Style
di
ng
e a t
r
The G
Tatler
Style
80
Tim Ryan Knit dress.
Opposite page: Dior
dress; Versace poncho
Tatler
Style
83
Max Mara outfit.
Opposite page:
Missoni jumper, skirt
Celine top. Opposite
page: Fendi top, skirt;
By Far boots
Tatler
Style
86
Zadig & Voltaire jacket;
Celine shoes; stylist’s own
trousers. Opposite page:
Jil Sander outfit
Tatler
Style
89
HAIR & MAKEUP HELVE LEAL; MODEL JULIE HOEKSTRA AT MONSTER MANAGEMENT
91
Style
Tatler
r k et ?
i l m a
n ret a Mui
f a s h io ty? By Ch er r y
A sia’s inabili
ap in g s u s t a
e re sh in f o r
resal u t w
c
like to find unique treasures at great
ow is lea r-
H is it a c
prices,” adding that the average basket
value of Hong Kong buyers is US$617,
and collectibles, is another good It was like a treasure hunt,” says Style
98
Chevron Mystérieux
necklace and earrings
and Liseré Mystérieux
ring. Opposite page:
Collerette Mystérieuse
transformable necklace
The Legend of
Diamonds—25
Mystery Set
Jewels Collection
S
ince 1906, diamonds have lit up Van Cleef & Arpels’s the discovery presented a unique opportunity for the
pieces, and the quest to discover the world’s rarest and luxury jeweller to oversee the process, starting from
most stunning gemstones has long defined initial stone extraction.
the house’s distinguished name. The Legend of To yield the stone’s maximum potential, Van Cleef
Diamonds—25 Mystery Set Jewels is a collection & Arpels worked with various experts to produce 67
that reveals these limpid stones in all their facets. flawless diamond expressions, each precisely cut and
The story began in 2018, when Van Cleef & Arpels was polished to emanate the natural beauty and impeccable
presented with a rough diamond known as the Lesotho quality of the Lesotho Legend.
Legend. A stone of 910 carats, with type 2A chemical For the very first time, the brand’s design studio
composition and a rare perfect D colour, it was the fifth used diamonds entirely from a single rough to create
Tatler largest rough diamond ever mined. For a maison that an exquisite 25-piece collection. The meticulous
100 traditionally works with primed, cut and faceted stones, process involved the use of cutting-edge 3D software,
as gemmologists perfected every shape, enhancing the final pieces convey a majestic dialogue between expert
gems’ ideal proportions and creating matches with craftmanship and remarkable design. Made to be worn
identical size and weight. in up to six different ways, the collection embodies
At the heart of the collection is the maison’s mystery another Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark; technical
setting technique, patented in 1933, which allows ingenuity, reflected in transformable pieces like the
precious stones to be set with no visible metal links, pendants of the Chevron Mystérieux earrings, which
prongs or fasteners. Van Cleef & Arpels is also first to use can be added to the necklace of the same name, whose
the complex signature setting on an entire collection, in central diamond can also be worn alone.
a testament to the maison’s craftsmanship, putting the From rings and pendants to necklaces and earrings,
gemstones themselves at the forefront to showcase the the collection features the 67 Lesotho Legend diamonds
vibrant colours and give a velvety radiance to the design. and more than 3,000 rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Tatler
Representing more than 30,000 hours of work, the Reflecting the couture inspiration that Van Cleef & 101
Arpels has cherished since its beginning, the Double
Ruban Mystérieux clip and Passementerie Mystérieuse
ring appear as supple as fabric, with several layers of
white and rose gold and precious stones set in rippling
displays. Two emerald-cut diamonds—of 3.08 carats
within the clip and 5.23 carats crowning the ring—stand
out among the striking buff-topped rubies and pink
sapphires.
Also pictured, two DFL type 2A emerald-cut
diamonds, Individual Mystery Set rubies, Traditional
Mystery Set buff-topped rubies, pink sapphires
and diamonds make up the Collerette Mystérieuse
transformable necklace and ring. Discreet links are
hidden under the structure, making it comfortable to
wear, while a diamond-set three-dimensional bow hides
the clasp on the back of the piece. The two remarkable
diamonds at the heart of the necklace boast over 60
carats combined: the largest is detachable to adorn a ring
IMAGE BERTRAND MOULIN (RUBIES)
of similar design.
The second chapter of the Legend of Diamonds features
White Diamond Variations. Together with 25 Mystery Set
Jewels, the high jewellery collection includes more than
100 pieces that retrace the maison’s history and style.
Tatler
102
Double Ruban
Mystérieux clip
and Passementerie
Mystérieuse ring
Opposite page,
clockwise from
top left: Van Cleef
& Arpels’ 1922
catalogue; individual
Mystery Set rubies;
the 1953 Blue Heart
diamond set
J EW E L L E RY
Amrita Katara
Watch & Jewellery Editor
of Tatler Hong Kong
It is impossible to
capture the bewitching
nature of the ocean in
its entirety, but Harry
Winston has at least
managed to express
its essence with the
Island Waters necklace,
a standout piece from
the US jeweller’s new
Majestic Escapes
collection. This one-of-a-
kind high jewellery piece
is inspired by St Barts,
a picturesque island in
the eastern Caribbean
Sea. It features a carefully
selected ombre gradation
of pear-shaped indicolite
tourmalines, blue
paraibas, green paraibas,
mint tourmalines, green
tourmalines and round
brilliant-cut diamonds
that give the piece a
delicate fluidity and
sophisticated symmetry,
mimicking the sunlit
shores of the volcanic,
reef-ringed paradise.
Jewellery has never
been so transportive.
Harry Winston Majestic
Escapes—Island Waters
necklace in platinum, set
with indicolite tourmaline,
paraiba tourmaline, yellow-
green tourmaline, blue-green
tourmaline and 289 round
brilliant diamonds
PRICKLY THORN,
SWEETLY WORN
For the first time, La Rose
Dior features bangles in
its Bois de Rose range,
inspired by the stem of
Christian Dior’s favourite
flower and a nod to when
he learnt to prune roses
with his mother in their
Normandy garden. These
delicately sculptured
pieces come in either
white, yellow or pink gold,
with or without a frosting
of diamonds. They are
her astrological symbol, Leo—the fifth designed be worn by both
sign in the zodiac—and was her favourite women and men.
day to present her couture collections. Dior Bois de Rose bracelets in
Chanel’s Eternal No5 fine jewellery line 18-karat pink gold, white gold
and yellow gold
has been expanded this year, including
these 18-karat beige gold and diamond
earrings, which are designed to be
transformable. The length of one earring
is adjustable, with the long version worn
attached behind the lobe or as a simple
ear-stud.
Chanel Eternal No5 transformable earrings in
18-karat beige gold and diamonds
Tatler
Style
105
PIECE
Style
108
Clockwise, from left:
Corolle Mystérieuse
earrings in white
gold and rose gold
set with rubies and
diamonds, and Couture
Small Talk
Mystérieuse ring in
white gold and rose
gold, set with rubies
and one oval diamond;
Entrelacs Mystérieux
VINCENT bracelet in white gold
and red gold, set
historian Vincent
Meylan specialises in
writing about jewels
and has written books
on many prestigious
jewellery houses,
including two titles
about Van Cleef &
Arpels’ new Legends
of Diamonds high
jewellery collection:
25 Mystery Set Jewels
and White Diamond
Variations, both released
this year. In an exclusive
interview, he reveals
which pieces from
the past captivate him
most, and the changing
role of precious
adornment in our lives
You’ve come across so
many stories and anecdotes
throughout your career,
from Queen Marie Amélie’s In today’s context, how would Definitely Princess Fawzia of
missing emeralds to the theft you characterise jewellery’s Egypt’s diamond necklace.
of the Duchess of Windsor’s role in our lives? How does The Van Cleef & Arpels
Jewels. Which is your favourite it impact status, gender, jewels for the
and why? sexuality and style? Egyptian royal
The ones I like best are the I don’t think jewellery family were
ones still clouded in mystery. really impacts gender extraordinary.
For example, the Prince or sexuality. Of course, When I
Edward of York diamond it impacts style; it is published
has not been seen for 100 like punctuation my first book
years, since Van Cleef & in a sentence, or about Van
Arpels exhibited it in New salt in cooking, Cleef & Arpels,
York. I would love to see that especially Treasures
stone. But I think my biggest nowadays, and Legends, I
question ever is: where is when you can mentioned those
Grand Duchess Vladimir of change your jewels; we had
Russia’s enormous emerald? style every day. no information
US billionaire Barbara Hutton I also think about any of them
owned a spectacular emerald jewellery has apart from Princess
and diamond necklace. a lot to do with Faiza’s [Fawzia’s sister]
The stones used to belong This is a very big question; I symbolism, ruby and diamond
to the Grand Duchess, the would need a book to answer especially for peony brooch. Since the
aunt of the last emperor of it. But if I stick to France, love. It can be a publication of the book,
Russia. Barbara Hutton sold which I know best, I would say secret link between we have seen Princess
that necklace to Van Cleef that I am always puzzled by two people. It can Faiza’s emerald and diamond
& Arpels at the end of the the way jewellery used to be mark a special occasion. For necklace, Queen Nazli’s [the
1960s. The central stone was worn by men and women a few me, it has a lot to do with sisters’ mother] diamond
IMAGE BERTRAND MOULIN (VAN CLEEF & ARPELS)
enormous—more than 100 centuries ago. Until recently, feeling good. Diamonds are necklace, and Princess
carats—but it had a strange only women would wear very special; I am convinced Fawzia’s diamond earrings
shape. We found that it jewellery in France. This has that the light getting into a all coming up for auction. We
had been recut to a smaller changed during the last ten diamond gets out into your need to find that diamond
cushion-cut stone, mounted years. Now men are starting eye and tickles your mind in a necklace—it such a wonderful
on a pendant and sold to a to wear jewellery again. Many very feel-good way. Diamonds piece of jewellery. It has not
private collector. I have no French customs, laws and put me in a good mood. been seen in public for 70
idea where it is now. habits changed since [the time years, but I am sure it still
of] Emperor Napoléon at the Of all the fabulous objects exists somewhere in a safe.
As a historian, what can you beginning of the 19th century. you’ve mentioned in your two
tell us about jewellery over the He was a warrior and didn’t Legends of Diamonds books What do you hope people Tatler
ages? How has the concept wear jewellery. Consequently, for Van Cleef & Arpels, which derive from this book?
Style
of jewellery evolved? Has the jewellery fell out of fashion for jewellery creation moves you A dream, a moment out of
way people wear it changed? most men. the most, and why? time or, simply, pleasure. 109
WAT C H E S
Jacqueline Tsang
Editor-in-Chief of Tatler
Hong Kong
Diver X Skeleton in
DIZZY HEIGHTS interest grew. Montblanc
Legend has it that a is commemorating that
dangerous mythical first ascent in 1786 with the
creature once inhabited the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon
high passes of Mont Blanc Skeleton timepiece, a
mountain, preventing limited edition of eight,
access to the peak. It featuring handmade
wasn’t until a substantial decorative work.
prize was offered to the
first person to find a Montblanc Star Legacy
Suspended Exo Tourbillon
way to the summit that Skeleton The Ascent
A TALE OF TIME
Heure H is more than a
watch: it’s a symbol.
Hermès’s signature
letter H, created by
designer Philippe
Mouquet in 1996, acts as a
frame on the large square
titanium case for the dial
IMAGES JVA STUDIOS (ROLEX); JOEL VON ALLMEN (HERMES)
Serena Williams
37mm adorning a
khaki green Grande
Tapisserie dial by Of all the watch brands in
Audemars Piguet
the luxury industry, why
did you choose to work with
An up-close-and-personal must love ourselves more always possible. But it’s Audemars Piguet, and what
chat with Serena Williams, than anyone else. And we important to channel was it about the brand that
as she opens up about must understand that no anything negative and look spoke to you?
mental health and how one will [fully understand at the bigger picture. I think I have never met a brand
she found her match in us]. So, it’s important that today we live in a world that is so in touch with its
Audemars Piguet. experienced and upcoming where most situations can beliefs—one that is always
athletes really take care of always be worse. I just think striving for equality. It’s
Could you share with us their physical and, more having perspective is very very difficult to find that
your take on mental well- importantly, their mental important. in the luxury industry. But
being for today’s athletes? well-being. this is the true meaning of
Do you have any pointers for What or who empowers you? equality.
aspiring athletes entering the What words of advice would This may sound like a cliché Quite frankly, when I first
competitive sporting world? you give people who need to but it’s important to inspire met with Audemars Piguet,
Sport is not easy—nothing stay positive and healthy in and empower yourself. You I was blown away by their
is easy, if you want to be the a high-pressure environment can feel empowered by so message and how I was
best. But it’s important to or situation? many people, but if you can treated—not for all I am
know that working hard, Staying positive is easier look into your own soul or for what I have done in
not giving up, speaking up said than done. I know I and empower yourself, that my industry, but just from
and taking care of yourself have faced many challenges, becomes a game changer. a super honest place. I’ve Tatler
are super important. We are and staying positive So, a lot of things actually never met a more authentic Style
living in a world where we through them all is not empower me, but I try to brand, and I fell in love. 113
| |
Viva
Trend
A round-up of the
Verde
hottest timepieces that
will make you want to
go green this summer
PRETTY IN PINK
Vacheron Constantin has pink gradient effect dial, the
a long history of designing timepiece is as pretty as it
watches for women and is is technical. The rose-beige
adding to its legacy with alligator leather strap has a
the new Patrimony model. satin effect and is finished
With a case and hour with a pink gold buckle.
markers in 18-karat pink Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
115
Everything
you need
to look
your best
this month
By Cherry Mui
IN A BARBIE WORLD
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino might have reminded us
that pink is a colour for every gender, 365 days a year,
but he is not the only one who is loving the saturated
shade. On the fall-winter 2022 runways, red carpets
and the ’Gram, everyone who’s anyone is all about that
hot pink. Be it a blazer, dress, handbag or a top-to-toe
ensemble, dare to step away from monochrome; this
dopamine dressing trend is here to stay. Clockwise from
top left: Christian Louboutin bag; Louis Vuitton men's
jacket; Versace men’s sneaker; Celine skateboard;
Salvatore Ferragmo earrings; Mach & Mach sandal.
Opposite page: Valentino outfit Tatler
Style
117
MAXIMUM
DRAMA
Fashion is often a celebration
of polar opposites, and after a
summer of micro minis, hemlines
have dropped to the floor.
Maxidresses are a wardrobe
essential that work for elegant
soirées, casual lunches and
everything in between. Coming
in colours, cuts and fabrics
to suit every taste, this is the
ultimate piece to bridge summer
and fall: just add cosy layers.
Clockwise from far left: Gucci
necklace; Stella McCartney
dress; Saint Laurent outfits;
Magda Butrym earrings; Oscar de
la Renta dress, available at Moda
Operandi; Jimmy Choo heel;
Givenchy heel
Tatler
Style
119
LUCKY STRIKE
Bowling bags, but make them fashion! The
early-aughts aesthetic is showing no signs
of slowing down, including when it comes to
handbags. Following the recent resurgence
of hobo bags, brands including Dior, Karl
Lagerfeld and Loro Piana have reinterpreted
the practical bowling model—with double
handles, flat bottom and cylinder shape.
Alternatively, look for vintage models such as
Hermès’ Bolide on resale sites. Clockwise from
below: Enfants Riches Déprimés bag; Dior bag;
Tod’s bag; Adidas x Gucci bag. Opposite page:
Karl Lagerfeld outfit
Tatler
Style
121
122
Style
Tatler
IMAGE JACKIE NICKERSON (DIOR)
ON THE DOWNLOW
Practical clogs have proven
themselves worthy of every
fashionista’s shoe closet: from
the floral Dior and Birkenstock
crossover clogs to the futuristic
Crocs-esque rubber slippers seen
at Bottega Veneta and Marni,
the versatile low-cut hitters are
establishing undeniable luxury
credentials. Dior Men outfit.
Opposite page, clockwise from top
left: Balenciaga mule; JW Anderson
slipper; Bottega Veneta sandal; Jil
Sander loafer; Marni slipper
Tatler
Style
123
What sets the truly stylish apart from those who
IMAGE LEUNGMO (YOSHI) WARDROBE JEREMY SCOTT (YOSHI)
125
SURFACE
BENEATH THE
M
ost Hongkongers do their her mother and her aunt, Pansy, both prominent
power walks in exercise businesswomen in Hong Kong. She’s also planning
gear—a Lululemon outfit, her wedding, a stressful process even for those who
perhaps, with trainers in don’t have to worry about a high-profile event and
varying shades of neon. guest list. Ho nevertheless seems remarkably composed
Beatrice Ho has just returned about it all, with a dignity and self-awareness that belie
ON HO’S SPECIAL-EDITION COVER NICOLE + FELICIA GOWN FROM THE WEDDING GOWN; DE BEERS ELLESMERE TREASURE HIGH JEWELLERY NECKLACE IN WHITE
in a black crop top and once said that his greatest luxury was not having to
long ruffled skirt, as well justify himself to anyone. “I agree with this sentiment
as a pair of three-inch-high completely. I believe that one’s body is not beholden to
Stella McCartney Sneak anyone because an individual should have confidence
Elyse incline trainers. and complete autonomy over their own body,” she
This is unsurprising explains. “My style stems from what I think would
given that Ho doesn’t own a best flatter my body, while accurately reflecting my
single pair of flats (nor, for that matter, jeans). “I own personality and respecting the occasion I’m at.”
these Stella McCartney trainers and a pair of workout She adds that her personal style is all about timeless
trainers—because honestly, what else can you wear to elegance. “I view myself as more of a Grace Kelly than
play tennis?” she says, laughing. “But everything else a Marilyn or a Jacqueline. I’m more a classic kind of
in my wardrobe consists of varying styles and heights girl,” she muses. “I want to look back in 50 years and be
of heels.” proud of my choices, because while I want to be stylish
Ho is the daughter of prominent businesswoman and fashion-forward, ultimately I would pick what
Daisy Ho, and she attributes much of her style to the looks good on me as opposed to what everyone else is
powerful women of the Ho family, starting with her wearing; to me, that is what a stylish woman is.”
maternal grandmother, Lucina Laam. Ho’s style has certainly evolved over the years.
“My late grandmother told me: you don’t know who She remembers how, during her formative years, her
you’re going to meet when you walk out of the house aesthetic was “relatively predictable”. Inspired by her
every morning,” she says. “Normally—when I don’t go mother, whose favourite colour was pink, Ho embraced
on a walk—I try to have my hair and make-up done the hue with youthful enthusiasm.
[before leaving home]. Every single day, you should “My mum recently reminded me that my old
look presentable at the bare minimum, and [preferably] wardrobe had actually consisted of 90 per cent pink
have a dimension of flair in some way, so people will clothes,” she says. “As I entered my later teenage years,
remember you. You want to stand out in a positive way.” my style began to emulate the trends and outfits that I
One gets the sense that the balance between public observed around me.”
perception and self-expression through personal style Ho remembered how she fell in love with the
is something that Ho has honed over the years. The “preppy, polished Ivy League aesthetic” when she went
27-year-old Princeton and Penn graduate has had her to university in the US, a style that she also loved on the Tatler
share of the limelight as the granddaughter of gambling character Blair Waldorf in the US drama series Gossip Features
tycoon Stanley Ho, not to mention growing up with Girl. This aesthetic took the form of silk and chiffon 127
“Every single day, you
should look presentable
at the bare minimum,
and preferably have a
dimension of flair so
people will remember you”
collared blouses, sweaters and a healthy dose of tweed, and Daisy] also grew up in the limelight and they know
which she would accessorise with a cape, poncho or what society deems beautiful and appropriate, but
gilet, and wear platform booties and pumps “to add they’ll also be able to put a spin on it.”
character and charm”. Ho has come a long way from her predominantly
The ease with which she styles her outfits comes pink wardrobe, a sartorial evolution that mirrors her
from an early understanding of the fashion scene. “I was personal growth; she believes the two are intricately tied.
blessed to be exposed to international luxury designers … “Deeming personal style and clothing as simply
and was able to identify what I liked and disliked from window dressing is reductive: creative and artistic
a young age,” she says. She adds that while her scope has visions can be manifested through various ways, and
HAIR AND MAKE-UP WENDY LEE AT WENDY’S WORKSHOP
widened over the years, some things don’t change: “I have fashion-conscious individuals express their artistic
always loved bows, tulle, sequins, feathers and crystals, expression through style,” she says. “Personal style,
and I’ve stayed very loyal to that style.” similar to one’s identity, is composed, constructed
Ho points out that while she has a distinct and honed by the society and culture that people are
fondness for “all these different types of feminine immersed in.”
embellishments”, she would also receive helpful and Most importantly, she emphasises how her style—
constructive advice from her Aunt Pansy, whose taste her personal expression—is what brings meaning
she has every confidence in. and happiness to her every day: “Fashion is my creative
“I trust [her] style, which is refined, sophisticated outlet,” she says. “[It allows me] to inject joy into
Tatler and timeless. She would tell me if something is a little otherwise mundane moments in life.” Perhaps it’s
Features too much. From a very young age, she really taught me time we all tried a bit of power walking in her three-
128 what ‘beautiful’ really means,” Ho says. “They [Pansy inch soles.
Nicole + Felicia gown, from
The Wedding Gown; De
Beers Adonis Rose high
jewellery seven-row bracelet
in white gold with diamonds,
Enchanted Lotus high
jewellery ring in white gold
with diamonds
Tatler
Features
129
“Since starting Allegory, my research
into slow fashion has made me far more
PHOTOGRAPHY AFFA CHAN STYLING CHERRY MUI HAIR GLOOMY KWOK AT MAKEUPBEES MAKE-UP KAREN YIU AT MAKEUPBEES
conscious about my sartorial choices. I
hope to reflect this in my personal style
by proudly wearing my same pieces on
repeat—albeit styled differently”
Tatler
Features
130
FIONA FANG
Fiona Fang is the co-founder
of Hong Kong fashion brand
Allegory. The label’s garments
are made using excess material
left over by fabric suppliers who
have overestimated their needs.
The mini dresses, midi shirt
dresses and unstructured blazers
in the collection have one thing
in common: the colour black.
The label’s sophisticated and
sustainable approach to design is
in no small part thanks to Fang’s
background in marketing and
international business, including
an 11-year career working in
product and marketing for
Ralph Lauren in Hong Kong
and Shanghai.
16Arlington dress, available at Net-A-
Porter; Mach & Mach heels, available at
Joyce; Messika bangles (left), bracelet
(right); Fang’s own bangles, ring (right).
Opposite page: Off-White top, available
at Farfetch; Allegory trousers; Apm
Monaco necklace, rings (left); Fang’s
own bangles, ring (right)
PHOTOGRAPHY AFFA CHAN STYLING CHERRY MUI HAIR GLOOMY KWOK AT MAKEUPBEES MAKE-UP KAREN YIU AT MAKEUPBEES
ARTEM ANSHELES
Actor, singer and TV host Artem
Ansheles channels a fashion-forward
and gender-fluid style that defies
convention and demands attention.
The Russian-born star, who moved to
Hong Kong when he was 17, made his
name through appearances in adverts,
as a TV host, YouTuber and, lately, an
influencer. Defying the misconceptions
surrounding the work ethic of the latter
group, Ansheles constantly reinvents
himself and diversifies his CV: he is the
founder of accessories brand Earon, and
this year made his debut as a musical
artist with the self-produced album I’m
Shell-Less. His persona is a lesson to his
100,000-plus followers to be proudly
themselves instead of following trends.
Givenchy top; Christian Stone trousers; Earon ear
cuff. Opposite page: 1017 Alyx 9sm vest, available
at Farfetch; Moncler trousers; Givenchy sneakers;
Messika bangle
“Through my personal
style, I hope to convey
the message that it’s OK
to express yourself in
any way you like, even if
you are a boy or man in a
conservative city. There’s
a reason male peacocks
are the ones with the
prettiest plumage”
KEEP
IT
COOLJenny Tsang
wants to
influence and
If Jenny Tsang’s Instagram account
is anything to go by, the Hong
Kong-born, California-raised
content creator knows how to serve
good style all year long. Creating
effortless ensembles is her forte;
outfits she wore. This was around
the time that the “OOTD”, or “outfit
of the day”, hashtag started blowing
up on Instagram, “so I did the same
with the looks I wore to work,” she
told Tatler. “I never thought this
inspire her social by pairing oversized coats and would change my life.”
ON TSANG’S SPECIAL-EDITION COVER PRADA DRESS
but ultimately
balance between hard and soft Instagram, where she continues to
elements each time. post regular outfit inspo under the
Features
137
“Justin Bieber [is my
biggest fashion influence].
Sometimes I wonder if
an item he’s wearing is
actually well designed,
or if it’s because he’s
famous and makes
it look cool”
IMAGE LEUNGMO STYLING CHRIS WONG HAIR JIM TSE MAKE-UP CARMEN CHUNG SET DESIGN KARSON LIU
Tatler
Features
138
TYSON YOSHI
Tyson Yoshi is one of Hong
Kong’s best-known artists. His
songs have amassed more than
37 million views on YouTube;
he has 245,000 listeners on
Spotify each month, with
streams from more than 100
countries; and he has toured
internationally, a feat for
any Hong Kong musician.
Collaborations with Valentino
Beauty, Prada, Gucci and Nars
have cemented his star status
with luxury brands all over
the world. Yoshi names Stüssy
Hong Kong and Chrome
Hearts as among his favourite
brands, and looks to Justin
Bieber and singer Paul Jason
Klein for style inspiration. Tatler
Features
Moschino outfit
139
PHOTOGRAPHY BORAM YUN STYLING JEONGAH LEE HAIR SEUNGJIN KIM MAKE-UP SUYEON PARK
Tatler
Features
141
PHOTOGRAPHY SJ WANG STYLING CHERRY MUI MAKE-UP JUN PRODUCTION YU LI ART DIRECTION SEVEN QI POST PRODUCTION XIAO BO PHOTO ASSISTANT GF WANG
DARK
ostentatious baubles that swing
from her earlobes to delightful
sprays of feathers and gemstones.
“Style is a mirror—a reflection
of one’s personality,” she tells Tatler.
Black dresses and robes form the
ON CHU’S SPECIAL-EDITION COVER ALEXANDER MCQUEEN TOP, TROUSERS; CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HEELS; LULU GUINNESS BAG; IRENE’S OWN EARRINGS
foundation of her wardrobe, and
she names Yohji Yamamoto and
Rick Owens, both famed for their
inclination for all-black, utilitarian
looks, as some of her favourite
designers.
During her time on Wall Street,
her uniform was the assertive
combination of a black suit, crisp
white Brooks Brothers shirt and
Ferragamo flats. Now, she cites
From a high- The shush of a smoke-toned
satin gown, cinched at the waist.
practicality for her draw towards
darker hues. “I cannot say I’m
powered financier Shoulders illuminated by glittering
earrings. An inky silhouette
a colourful person. I love black
because it doesn’t show dirt,” she
to a passionate punctuated by a carmine lip. says. “I’m so messy, that any other
humanitarian,
Jet-black hair swept back into an colour, I’d just have to throw it away
unadorned bun. A Chinese silk after one wear.”
sophistication
philanthropist, who built her but is enough to have a permanent
career in finance before retiring collection at the Victoria and Albert
to focus on the act of giving, it Museum.”
By Lauren James spies a woman whose style nous is Like a wry smile or a knowing
Photography by Amanda Fordyce exemplified by classic, flattering wink, Chu’s sensibility is defined
Richard Tsao overcoat;
Lulu Guinness clutch;
Christian Louboutin heels;
Chu’s own earrings
Alexander McQueen shirt;
Chu’s own necklace.
Opposite page: Rui Xu top;
Chu’s own tapestry tunic,
earrings
Tatler
Features
146
“I am
inspired
by others’
style but the
other way
around?
That hasn’t
occurred
to me”
by giving just enough away that it
softens those around her and invites
STYLING HANNAH BECK HAIR AND MAKE-UP CALLIE FOULSHAM PRODUCTION DMB REPRESENTS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT OLLIE PATTERSON
she swiftly established her profile Mahatma Gandhi, another noted That hasn’t occurred to me.” We Features
within the private banking world humanitarian, as her style icon. beg to differ.” 147
ARTHUR BRAY
Hong Kong-born and -raised
Arthur Bray’s irreverent and
carefree sartorial sensibility
extends to his role as co-founder
of music collective and clothing
brand Yeti Out. Part of the
new guard of young Hong
Kong entrepreneurs who are
moving the culture needle,
Bray additionally is the music
director of the alternative radio
PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA FORDYCE STYLING HANNAH BECK HAIR SIMONE MASON MAKE-UP PHOEBE TAYLOR PRODUCTION DMB REPRESENTS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS JIMMY CRIPPEN, ROSIE WILSON
station FM Belowground and
co-founded independent record
label Silk Road Sounds.
Helly Hansen jacket; Raey T-shirt; Bray’s
own cap. Opposite page: Namesake shirt;
Raey T-shirt; Victoria trousers; Converse
sneakers; Yeti Out necklace
Tatler
Features
148
“Style
means
looking
like a
million
bucks when
you’ve got
a million
baht”
RINA
WADHWANI
Woman-about-town Rina
Wadhwani is the director at
supply chain and logistics firm
Wadhsons Hong Kong. Not
one to let her clothes wear
her, she indulges her creative
side by blending elements of
old Hollywood with current
trends. Opting for soft
silhouettes, bold accessories
and a sprinkle of drama,
Wadhwani is a firm believer
that the simplest of ensembles
can be elevated with the right
mix of accessories. Through
the use of colours and prints,
she hopes to spread positivity
with her sartorial choices,
encouraging others to live out
their fantasies through fashion.
Taller Marmo dress; Amina Muaddi
heels. Opposite page: Valentino blouse;
Chanel necklace
PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA FORDYCE STYLING HANNAH BECK HAIR SIMONE MASON MAKE-UP PHOEBE TAYLOR PRODUCTION DMB REPRESENTS PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS JIMMY CRIPPEN, ROSIE WILSON
Features
151
Moving
Mountains
After years spent picking off climbing records,
Nirmal “Nims” Purja sets his sights on his
toughest conquest yet By Lauren James
When it comes to mountains, Nims Purja has seen
and done it all: his record-setting climb of all 14 of the
world’s highest was immortalised in a hit documentary;
he holds several speed records for multiple ascents back
to back, and led the first team to summit K2 in winter—
without supplemental oxygen; and he has summited
Mount Everest seven times and founded a guiding
company. Through planning, dedication and faith in
his own abilities, he has built a reputation for achieving
anything he sets his mind to. However, this year, when
he set out on a new challenge—an extreme litter-picking
mission on the world’s tallest mountain—it didn’t quite
go as planned.
“To be honest, I didn’t expect it to be that tough, and
I’m a very strong climber; the strongest climber in the
world. My team was with me trying to pull the rubbish
out of the snow at 8,000m, which was very hard,” he
tells Tatler after returning from a two-and-a-half month
expedition during which 500kg of rubbish was removed
from the highest parts of Everest. The trip marked the
expansion of The Big Mountain Cleanup a year after
his foundation launched the project on Manaslu, the
world’s eighth-highest peak, to address the mounting
IMAGES SUMAN (MOUNTAIN); BOTH COURTESY OF ELITE EXPED
Tatler
Features
154
IMAGES SUMAN (CLIMB); BRODIE HOOD MEDIA (BASE CAMP, TREK); SANDRO GROMEN-HAYES (NIMS, TENT); ALL COURTESY OF ELITE EXPED
155
Tatler
Features
“I see a lot of
people criticising
those who leave
trash on Everest,
but it can be a
matter of life and
death” — NIMS PURJA
and be willing to pay extra to subsidise its removal and
fund projects in the region, which relies on tourism.
Dedicated expeditions will increase the project’s
success, he explains, as when they are guiding clients
on an expedition, “There’s a limit to what we can carry
because we also have to bring the clients’ kit and all the
equipment down. So this has to be a completely separate
clean-up project; we’re going to do it next year with a
bigger budget and team. The awareness is out there now,
though. At least we have achieved something.”
What goes up Mount Everest doesn’t always come
down. Abandoned tents, empty oxygen canisters, food
wrappers, discarded equipment and excrement are
the most common waste found on the world’s tallest
mountain, where, due to temperatures as low as
minus-50 degrees Celsius, nothing biodegrades, meaning
more than half a century’s worth of detritus lies on
the mountainside, earning it the moniker “the world’s
highest garbage dump”. The immortal waste not only
serves as a reminder of humans’ impact on even the
remotest parts of the natural world, but also presents a
risk to climbers struggling up a cluttered mountain or
clipping onto old and rotten lines, and the communities
below who deal with the pollutants from effluence
washed into rivers by snowmelt.
As recreational climbing has increased in popularity,
Everest, in particular, has been beset by scandal: a
IMAGE TSHERING SHERPA, COURTESY ELITE EXPED
pockets and a reasonable level of fitness can feasibly insists clients and guides adhere to environmental
add summiting Everest to their bucket list, potentially regulations, recycles or repurposes equipment, and
putting both clients and their guides at risk. Although predominantly uses solar panels to power its camps.
Purja says his photo does not convey normal conditions He hopes that publicity drummed up by previous
on the mountain, the ensuing sensationalised media projects, including the first clean-up, brings more money
coverage depicted Everest as a cramped playground for for future outings. The challenge is finding capable
the wealthy, an expensive selfie location on the rooftop climbers who are willing to take on an Everest project
of the world where Sherpas do the hard work, with that doesn’t involve summiting (“summit fees” can
objects no one can be bothered to bring down scattered run up to US$10,000) and can be more arduous than
everywhere. But, as those who have spent time at altitude most guided climbs. Rubbish at base camp has been
know, the solution is not as simple as filling a binbag an issue since the 1970s, but Nepali authorities only
after a picnic. banned single-use plastics in the Everest region in 2020
“You get hit by a storm; you lose your tent; your tent’s in a bid to cut down on waste. Clean-up campaigns in
on the side of the mountain and your gear’s all scattered. the region operate regularly—in 2021, the Nepali army
You get down and you try to save your life,” says removed 28 tonnes of waste from six mountains—but
Malcolm Wood, owner of Hong Kong restaurant group poor infrastructure and accessibility, and a lack of
Maximal Concepts and a mountaineer, para-alpinist and education around environmental care compound
environmental advocate. “There are situations where the problem. Nepali NGO The Sagarmatha Pollution
you’re not going to be able to bring rubbish down; but Control Committee asks climbers to bring down 1kg
on a nice day below the death zone, there should be extra of rubbish to be disposed of at Lukla airport, the entry
people who you are paying for—not trying to negotiate point to the Sagarmatha National Park for most people,
the cheapest price—to climb this mountain. You’ve got which will then be flown to Kathmandu for processing;
to be able to provide the right amount of income to do it but the waste left by each climber is estimated to be
the right way.” 8kg. Even after removal, recycling is difficult, and open
Purja wants people to keep things in perspective. “I landfills and burning sites dot the region. In every way,
see a lot of people criticising those who leave trash on conquering this challenge will be an uphill task.
Everest, but it can be a matter of life and death. We can Purja is accustomed to feats others would deem
IMAGES COURTESY OF ELITE EXPED
all talk from down here, but when people are struggling insurmountable. Speaking via video call, far from any
to put one foot in front of another, carrying extra weight kind of vertiginous topography at his home on the
down is a mammoth task.” southern coast of England, he returned from Nepal
Rather than limit numbers on Everest or punish those just days before and is preparing to collect an MBE in
Tatler who pollute, he envisages a future where commercial recognition of his achievements in mountaineering,
Features mountaineering and sustainability co-exist. His own including a rescue he carried out in 2016, from Windsor
158 company, Elite Expeds, takes a “leave no trace” approach, Castle days later. Despite his exasperation in the face
“I have seen first- of frozen waste, he remains a staunch advocate for the
transformative power of mountaineering and its value to
climate change
forces, first as a Gurkha, then as part of the Royal
Navy’s Special Boat Service, an elite unit in which he
served as a cold weather warfare specialist. Despite
Himalayas. We
afterwards. He was recruited by the UK Special Forces
in 2009, before leaving in 2019 to become a full-time
mountaineer. The film 14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible
want to protect
documents Purja and his team’s ascent of the world’s
tallest 14 mountains, dubbed Project Possible, in just over
six months, obliterating the previous record of more than
for all those who Purja states in the film. Even after the record had been
smashed, the climbing world piled on to pick holes
Features
160
Kirstin Mearns and
David Peereboom
W
hen David
Peereboom
spotted a
“for lease”
sign by this
Sheung Wan
apartment,
he was
immediately smitten. “I waited
at the entrance and requested an
impromptu showing,” says the
jewellery designer and founder of
the Hong Kong-based NFA (No
Fixed Address) jewellery brand.
“I remember David calling and
saying: ‘I think we’re moving’,” says
Peereboom’s wife, Kirstin Mearns,
the head of museum commerce and
visitor service at the M+ museum.
The 912 sq ft, one-bedroom, two-
bathroom apartment, which also has
an 85 sq ft balcony, is in a low-rise
building yet offers beautiful views
of a park. “You can see the koi in the
pond—it’s like the best ‘park suite’
in a luxury hotel,” says Mearns. The
building’s façade was also a draw for
the couple: described by Peereboom
as a “shiny black beacon”, it features
a metal doorway that is “almost
architecturally gothic”.
Dutch-born Peereboom and
South African Mearns met in an
airport in Las Vegas, and first
moved to Hong Kong together
on July 1, 1997. The couple spent
many years in and out of the
SAR, permanently relocating
here four years ago when Mearns,
who previously worked with the
Art Gallery of Ontario and on
exhibitions with the estate of
Jean-Michel Basquiat, accepted
an offer to work at M+, which was
then gearing up for its opening.
In 2021, Peereboom, who has
had a long career in jewellery Crawford, is a “nirvana of glass and Peereboom’s studio, which is
a display area for his designs,
design, established NFA. The open space”, says Peereboom. “I features a chandelier he
made, as well as a custom
couple had been living for two love it, because it leaves my mind piece created by Martin Riese.
years in an apartment that they open to creative expression—it is Opposite page, from top: The
living space offers sprawling
felt didn’t satisfy their “true home a canvas of opportunity.” During open views; Shinkukan Girls
sensibilities”, says Peereboom—and a six-week redesign period, the by John Hathway is next to a
custom bed
both felt the opportunity to move couple adapted and personalised
into this home was not to be the home to their tastes and needs.
missed, says Mearns. “I came in with my paintbrush and
The apartment, which features concepts, turned up the music— Tatler
details originally created by the and absolutely had a blast,” says Features
His history with the brand US$358 million. privacy, peace and unparalleled Features
began in 1990, while he was living Now, Aman has 34 hotels service.” 167
From a world-renowned afternoon tea and Cantonese
cuisine to a holistic wellness sanctuary and the highest
infinity pool in the city, The Langham, Jakarta boasts
65 storeys of ultra-luxury hotel and lifestyle experiences
Excellence
under one roof.
Celebrating its first anniversary this September, the
brand’s first Southeast Asian location is now an integral
cornerstone of the Sudirman Central Business District,
bringing British heritage and timeless excellence to
Inside The Langham Indonesia’s capital.
The Langham Hotels and Resorts are globally
Hotels’ newest Southeast recognised for their intuitive service, urban
IMAGES THE LANGHAM, JAKARTA
opulent Italian marble bathroom comes complete with high-level business lunches and more, the hotel’s
an oversized bathtub, twin vanities and an overhead rain myriad drinking and dining options include Tom’s,
shower. Guests enjoy spacious and contemporary living in partnership with celebrity chef Tom Aikens; and a
areas with two separate bedrooms, walk-in wardrobes, rooftop bar. With three Michelin stars in Hong Kong,
a fully equipped kitchen, an elegant dining room and a T’ang Court is soon to make its Southeast Asian debut.
writer’s corner. Other impressive highlights include an Imbued with classic Chinese glamour, with 154 seats and
in-suite gym with personal trainer on demand and access six private dining rooms, the Cantonese restaurant is set
to The Langham Club just one floor below. to open on the 61st floor.
For those seeking respite and relaxation for the body The Langham is known as the first hotel to serve
and mind, Chuan Spa offers wellness experiences and afternoon tea in 1860s London, and its legacy continues
treatments guided by the five elements of Traditional in Jakarta at Alice, a cafe inspired by Lewis Carroll’s
Chinese Medicine. The spa houses a serene, meditative famous wonderland. Housed inside a picturesque dining
space with tranquil private treatment rooms, an indoor emporium, Alice serves up modern French food and
heated infinity pool and the recently opened Barberia. pastries throughout the day.
With the feel of a private gentlemen’s club, Barberia There’s no doubt that The Langham’s new and
offers traditional men’s grooming services alongside exceptional experiences will continue to deliver the
signature treatments, overlooking breathtaking views of brand’s modern sophistication and timeless glamour,
the city skyline. to locals and travellers alike, all within Jakarta’s most Tatler
The new must-visit venues for social events, weddings, vibrant district. 169
The Hotels
that Style Built A SCENTS OF DISCOVERY
in New York is like crystal in the form of The hotel is in a prime ICR perfume factory,
living inside a jewellery glassware and chandeliers, location in the heart of owned and operated by
box: impossibly elegant, complemented by pops Manhattan, just a block the Martone family, which
understatedly ornate of fiery Baccarat red— away from MoMa, a short has been involved in
and, of course, filled with including in the form of walk from Eric Ripert’s Italy’s perfume industry
fabulous shiny objects. fresh red roses. Le Bernardin restaurant for three generations.
The whimsical interiors Its beauty offerings are and a stone’s throw from Once upon a time, they
were brought to life by pretty sweet, too, going Fifth Avenue. If you’re produced fragrances for
Paris-based design duo all out with luxurious venturing further out, you the likes of Gianni Versace,
Tatler Gilles & Boissier, who left bathroom amenities by can cruise the city’s streets Nazareno Gabrielle, Nicola
Features no crystal unturned when it French perfumer Francis in style thanks to the hotel’s Trussardi and Romeo
170 came to the hotel’s soaring Kurkdjian. The property exclusive house car service. Gigli, the Italian fashion
designer whom the Los Milan embody everything
Angeles Times credited for we know and love about the
“singlehandedly changing Italian fashion house. Ever
the course of fashion” in the perfectionist, Giorgio
the 1980s. Armani himself has vetted
And since smelling good every aspect of the hotels’
is more or less religion at design and facilities, from
Magna Pars, at the heart the bespoke furnishings to
of the hotel is a serene the restaurant menus.
courtyard filled with Armani Hotel Milano
fragrant trees and flowers is located in the city’s
including magnolias, Quadrilatero della Moda,
azaleas and roses. or couture district, and
Magna Pars is tucked features sculptural interiors Clockwise, from left:
away on Via Vincenzo in shades of pearl and The Bar at Baccarat
Hotel in New York; The
Forcella in Navigli, Milan’s stone. The hotel encourages minimalist Armani Hotel
trendy canal district, guests to embrace la dolce Milano; Tropical meets
chic at Bulgari Resort
which is refreshingly free vita—the Armani way, of Bali; Lush green and
of tourists compared to course. Enjoy an aperitivo at clean lines at Magna
Pars Suites, Milan
other parts of the city, with the impressive Bamboo Bar
casual-chic restaurants, bars before a Michelin-starred
and cafes, as well as Mudec, Italian meal at Armani/
a museum dedicated to art Ristorante.
and culture. The 160-room Armani
Hotel Dubai is housed in
MAKE IT ARMANI the iconic Burj Khalifa,
ARMANI HOTELS & where soaring floor-to-
RESORTS ceiling windows frame
Clean lines, chic stunning vistas of the desert
minimalism and an city. Each guest is assigned
unwavering commitment to a personal “lifestyle
quality—the Armani Hotel manager” who handles
properties in Dubai and everything from arranging
rapidly changing
his voice booms as if amplified It’s not that Leung has been
by an invisible megaphone, and stagnating; over the past decade
the other, a symbol of the protest throughout history. It’s also the first tiles of geoduck, smoked abalone,
movement in Hong Kong. time in years that a menu at a Leung Indian lettuce stem and shiso plum;
“I’m naughty, so I’ll always touch restaurant has been wholly designed while Fish Magic takes inspiration
on religion and politics, one of by the man himself. from Paul Klee’s painting of the
which is illegal—but I don’t know This time, the Hong Kong same name, which deconstructs
which one,” Leung says of the new element serves as a supporting the Cantonese tradition of a whole
concept for Bo Innovation. “I do like character to the greats of art history. steamed fish by serving meat (citrus
to take things to the limit, and this The opener is inspired by Andy halibut), liver (monkfish ankimo),
Tatler is why I’m called extreme. Extreme Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Cans and scales and all on a polished bronze
Features Chinese, extreme politics—just involves bites inspired by various fish skeleton.
174 extreme enough to get away with it. Asian soups, placed on a rotating Bread also appears on the menu
“soy-sauce Western” cuisine unique
to Hong Kong, which was no doubt
influenced by the colonial-era dishes
that were served at Jimmy’s Kitchen
over a nine-decade-long lifespan.
The likes of lobster à la king and
glutinous rice balls stuffed with
crab roe grace the menu, alongside
a roster of Cheng’s Cantonese dishes
such as stuffed chicken wings with
bird’s nest, fried pork maw with
black beans, and sweet and sour
pork fried in a soft batter—an
artefact of old Hong Kong cuisine
that is only found today at Chinese
takeaways overseas, says Leung.
“Don’t expect any foam, powders
or nitrogen. It’s more about comfort
and taste, while activating a bit of
excitement,” he says, describing
the menu of Demon Celebrity as
very much the product of a “happy
marriage” of ideas between himself
and Cheng.
“We’re very giving; we have a lot
of respect for each other. He always
puts me first and I try to put him
first.”
As the morning wears on and the
grey skies threaten to turn darker, I
ask Leung if the very act of opening
two new restaurants in Hong Kong
is a vote of confidence in the city.
“How do you feel?” he shoots back
without pause, to which I reply that
the old Hong Kong is undeniably
gone—and whether the new Hong
Kong is better or worse remains to
be seen.
“Well, I think you got the old
for the first time in the restaurant’s transformed city with our own Hong Kong, and you’ve got what you
history, with Leung offering his memories of what once was. perceive as the new Hong Kong with
take on the Covid-19 sourdough Just a five-minute walk away, in the new laws and the new people.
trend with a steamed mantou what used to be the home of iconic There are a lot of people that have
version. “What people don’t realise European-style restaurant Jimmy’s left, but we’ve always had that. It’s
is, Chinese mantou is made the Kitchen, another restaurant opening the third exodus: the first one was
sourdough way. [The process affords Leung the space to fully lean after the riots of ’67, and the second
involves] a starter; it’s not even new into nostalgia for the Hong Kong of one prior to the Handover. This
to Chinese culture, but it’s new yore. time, you’re going to have a lot of
because we never tried to sell it.” Demon Celebrity is a double people coming in as well, but it’s a
Indeed, this sentiment of seeing bill of Leung and Cheng Kam-Fu, question of how much confidence
Hong Kong in a way that is both the executive chef of one-Michelin- you have in them.
familiar and alien underpins a meal starred Celebrity Cuisine. Though “Don’t have confidence in the
at the new Bo Innovation—perhaps Cheng is known for his faithful place; have confidence in yourself
echoing the way in which many of execution of Cantonese dishes, at first,” Leung concludes. If that isn’t a Tatler
us have been forced to reconcile the Demon Celebrity both chefs will pure declaration of willpower, then Features
reality of a rapidly and drastically offer their elevated take on the I don’t know what is. 175
Alphabet City
Z IS FOR:
ZONG ZI
Illustration by Eva Sze
Every year, as the Dragon Boat Festival approaches, Eva Sze would make zong zi, or rice dumplings,
with her mother and sisters. The ingredients vary between different families, regions in China and restaurants;
her family’s recipe includes glutinous rice, pork belly, mung beans, salted duck egg yolks, shiitake mushrooms and
dried scallops. “These zong zi have a taste of home that we can’t find in retail stores,” she says.
But making rice dumplings isn’t just about creating a delicious treat: the family activity reminds her of the first time
she and her sisters prepared the delicacy for their mother when they were little. Sze now enjoys this annual ritual
with her own daughter, sharing the finished product over a cup of Chinese tea.
Tatler This marks the last instalment of Alphabet City, a series in 26 parts,
176 each featuring an artist who celebrates the best of Hong Kong
C H I N A . H O N G K O N G . I N D O N E S I A . P H I L I P P I N E S . S I N G A P O R E . TA I WA N