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Review

Treatment of melasma: a review of less commonly used


antioxidants
Kayla M. Babbush1, BS, Remy A. Babbush2, and Amor Khachemoune3,4, MD, FAAD, FACMS

1
Division of Dermatology, Department of Abstract
Medicine, Albert Einstein College of Melasma, a common cause for seeking dermatologic care, is a chronic condition of skin
Medicine/Montefiore Medical Center, Bronx,
hyperpigmentation. With a poorly understood pathogenesis, and no universal cure,
NY, USA, 2Department of Food Science,
Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, USA,
melasma is a challenge for many dermatologists. For decades, there has been
3
Department of Dermatology, State investigation into the role of oxidative stress in melasma. In this literature review, we
University of New York Downstate, introduce the role of oxidative stress in melasma and discuss the function of various topical
Brooklyn, NY, USA, and 4Department of and oral antioxidant therapies for patients suffering from melasma. Numerous studies have
Dermatology, Veterans Health
shown efficacy of various antioxidant therapies for treatment of hyperpigmentation, and in
Administration, Brooklyn, NY, USA
this review, we focus primarily on those with less widespread use. Vitamin E, niacinamide,
Correspondence polypodium leucotomos, pycnogenol, grape seed extract, amino fruit acids, phytic acid,
Amor Khachemoune, MD, FAAD, FACMS zinc, silymarin, Korean red ginseng powder, plant extracts, and parsley all have well-
Veterans Affairs Medical Center demonstrated evidence of antioxidant properties, and these substances have been studied
State University of New York Downstate
in the context of skin hyperpigmentation. Although there is conflicting evidence of their
800 Poly Place
therapeutic efficacy, the use of these naturally occurring substances is promising for
Brooklyn, NY 11209
USA patients and medical providers seeking alternative therapeutic options.
E-mail: amorkh@gmail.com

Conflict of interest: None.

Funding source: None.

doi: 10.1111/ijd.15133

familial occurrence of melasma has been reported to be as


INTRODUCTION
high as 61%.6
Pigmentary disorders can be divided into acquired, congenital, The diagnosis of melasma is clinical, and biopsy is rarely
hypopigmentary, hyperpigmentary, or mixed disorders. Pig- necessary. The severity of melasma can be estimated using the
mentary disorders have a well-demonstrated impact on patient Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score, the modified
quality of life, and as a result, they are a common cause for MASI (mMASI) score, colorimetry, and mexametry. The Mel-
seeking dermatologic care.1-3 Melasma is a chronic, acquired asma Quality of Life scale (MelasQoL) can also be used to
pigmentary disorder that presents with hypermelanosis of sun- guide treatment and track improvement. This 10-item scale can
exposed areas of skin. Female predominance has been assess the level of impairment individuals suffer from due to
demonstrated in various studies, and this disorder, also known their melasma.5,7
as the “mask of pregnancy,” often plagues gravid women. Mel- The pathogenesis of melasma is multifactorial and incom-
asma, along with other disorders of hyperpigmentation, occurs pletely understood, and this poses a challenge for disease man-
more commonly in skin of color.4 There is evidence of mel- agement. Ultraviolet light exposure, which induces reactive
asma in all population groups; however, epidemiological stud- oxygen species (ROS), altered cutaneous vasculature, family
ies have found a higher prevalence among populations of East history, and hormonal influences are all known to play a role in
Asians (Japanese, Korean, and Chinese), Indians, Pakistanis, development of melasma.8,9 Biopsies of melasma skin show an
Middle Easterners, Mediterranean-Africans, and Hispanics with increased number of melanocytes, melanosomes in ker-
increased exposure to ultraviolet radiation.5 Genetic predispo- atinocytes, and dendrites.10,11 There is also evidence of
166
sition plays a role in the development of the disease, and increased activity of melanogenic enzymes in affected skin and

International Journal of Dermatology 2021, 60, 166–173 ª 2020 the International Society of Dermatology
Babbush, Babbush, and Khachemoune Antioxidant treatment for melasma Review 167

increased melanin deposition in both the epidermis and der- longa,60,61 ellagic acid,62,63 kojic acid,64,65 and reservatrol.66-69
mis.10,11 However, in addition to the previously mentioned antioxidants,
Combination therapy is often recommended for patients, as there are a number of other compounds with antioxidant proper-
there is no universally efficacious treatment. Topical therapies ties that may have therapeutic value for melasma and hyperpig-
include, but are not limited to, hydroquinone, retinoids, and mentation (Table 1). These antioxidant compounds show
numerous bleaching combination formulas. Superficial peels, efficacy in both topical and oral routes of administration.
microdermabrasion, and various laser and light therapies are
often used in conjunction with topical therapies. Oral tranexamic Vitamin E
acid has also been used. It is critical for patients to avoid exac- Vitamin E has a number of health benefits, and its numerous
erbating factors, which include ultraviolet light exposure, hor- isoforms have the ability to neutralize free radicals.70 Because
monal therapy, and various oral medications.8 Antioxidants are of its antioxidant abilities, oral and topical applications of vitamin
commonly part of this treatment method, as they are functional E have been investigated for treating hyperpigmentation.
in controlling oxidative stress linked with skin aging and pigmen- Hayakawa et al.25 conducted a double-blind trial in which
tation disorders. Furthermore, recent investigation has explored patients received an oral combination of vitamins C and E or
the use of topical cytidine, which is believed to play a role in single preparation of one vitamin. Combined treatment had sta-
melanogenic pathways.12-14 tistically better improvement for patients with chloasma and pig-
mented contact dermatitis. Handog et al.26 studied a test drug
Oxidative stress in dermatology containing procyanidin and vitamins A, C, and E. Patients
The skin is the site of numerous biochemical reactions, many of showed significant improvement in MASI score and a significant
which result in the generation of free radicals including ROS.15-17 decrease in pigmentation. Guevara et al.71 investigated a cream
Oxidative stress occurs with a disturbance in the balance containing hydroquinone, buffered glycolic acid (GA), vitamins C
between free radicals and antioxidant defenses.18 This imbalance and E, and sunscreen and found a significant decrease in pig-
exists in photodamage, non-melanoma skin cancers, psoriasis, mentation compared with sunscreen alone.
vitiligo, scleroderma, lichen planus, acne vulgaris, alopecia Although not a clinical trial, one study found significant inhibi-
areata, seborrheic dermatitis, and pemphigus foliaceus.17,19,20 tion of melanization in human melanocytes with a compound of
Sunlight, a primary trigger of oxidative damage, results in features alpha-tocopherol (a form of vitamin E) and ferulic acid.72
of premature skin aging, namely rhytids, dyspigmentation, telang-
iectasias, and xerosis.21 Niacinamide/nicotinamide
Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is an amide of vitamin B3. Nicoti-
Oxidative stress in melasma namide suppresses ROS in human cells and effectively reduces
There is clear evidence of oxidative stress in melasma. Seckin oxidative damage.73 Topical niacinamide has been investigated
et al.22 reported significantly elevated levels of malondialdehyde in various dermatologic conditions including acne, rosacea,
(MDA), nitric oxide (NO) and enzyme activity of superoxide dis- aging, atopic dermatitis, blistering disorders, and skin cancer
mutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) in serum prevention.74
of melasma patients compared with controls. Elevated MDA, a Navarrete-Solis et al.75 conducted a split-face study of mel-
product of lipid peroxidation, NO, a free radical secreted by asma patients who applied sunscreen and either niacinamide
endothelial cells, and SOD and GSH-Px, intracellular antioxi- or hydroquinone cream. All patients showed pigment improve-
dants, are markers of oxidative damage. Paradoxically, the ment; however, a greater percentage observed good to excel-
authors found significantly lower protein carbonyl levels in the lent results with hydroquinone. Of note, a greater number of
patient group.22 Protein carbonyl is an indicator of oxidative patients reported side effects with hydroquinone. Hakozaki
stress in amino acids and is used to evaluate oxidative protein et al.76 conducted both in vitro and in vivo studies with niaci-
damage. namide and found a significant decrease in cutaneous hyper-
In addition to reporting elevated oxidative markers in mel- pigmentation and an increase in skin lightness compared with
asma patients, Choubey et al.23 identified a significant positive vehicle alone. Campuzano-Garcia et al.77 considered DNA
correlation between MASI score and serum MDA. hypermethylation in melasma lesions and determined treat-
ment with sunscreen and niacinamide, retinoic acid, or placebo
resulted in a significant reduction in DNA methyltransferase 1
ANTIOXIDANT THERAPY IN MELASMA
expression.
There is evidence of oxidative stress in melasma pathogenesis. Others have investigated niacinamide, in conjunction with
We have previously reported on a number of well-known antiox- other therapies, for skin pigmentation. Hakozaki et al.32 studied
idants that play a role in control of skin pigmentation.24 These a gel containing vitamin C and niacinamide, in conjunction with
antioxidants include vitamin C,25-47 azelaic acid,48-52 cys- ultrasound radiation. Desai et al.78 studied a topical facial serum
teamine,53,54 glutathione,55-57 carotenoids,58,59 curcuma containing tranexamic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide.

ª 2020 the International Society of Dermatology International Journal of Dermatology 2021, 60, 166–173
168 Review Antioxidant treatment for melasma Babbush, Babbush, and Khachemoune

Table 1 Summary of clinical investigations discussed in this manuscript

Route of
Antioxidant administration Type of study Conclusion References

Amino fruit acids Topical Randomized single-blind Amino fruit acid peel is less irritating and better tolerated 86
right–left comparison trial than glycolic acid peel for melasma, but there is significant
melasma regression with both peeling methods
Korean red Oral Uncontrolled observational Korean red ginseng powder shows good tolerability and 100
ginseng powder study beneficial effects for melasma
Niacinamide/ Topical Randomized double-blind Niacinamide (compared with hydroquinone) is a safe and 75
nicotinamide clinical trial effective therapeutic agent for melasma
Topical Randomized double-blind Niacinamide significantly decreased hyperpigmentation 76
split-face trial and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone
Topical Randomized double-blind After treatment with niacinamide, retinoic acid, or placebo, 77
controlled trial expression of DNA methyltransferase (DNMT) 1 is decreased,
which correlates with clinical improvement of melasma
Topical Clinical trial A tranexamic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide containing 78
serum is an effective and well-tolerated treatment option
for addressing hyperpigmentary conditions
Topical Randomized split-face High-frequency ultrasound radiation together with 32
clinical trial skin-lightening gel (ascorbyl glucoside and niacinamide)
is effective to reduce hyperpigmentation
Petroselinum Topical Randomized double-blind The effect of petroselinum crispum on melasma severity 103
crispum clinical trial is the same as that of hydroquinone
Phytic acid Topical Clinical trial Easy phytic peel (commercial product composed of 88
phytic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and phenyl glycolic
[mandelic] acid) is effective, safe, and well-tolerated
for melasma
Topical Split-face study Triple combination (20% azelaic acid + 10% 89
resorcinol + 6% phytic acid) is as effective as 50%
glycolic acid peel for melasma
Topical Randomized clinical trial Glycolic acid and salicylic–mandelic acid peels are more 90
effective than phytic acid peels for melasma
Plant extracts Topical Split-face study Orchid-rich plant extracts possess similar efficacy to 101
vitamin C derivative for skin whitening
Polypodium Oral Randomized double-blind Oral PLE is not significantly better than placebo as an 80
leucotomos placebo-controlled clinical trial adjunct to topical sunscreen for melasma
Oral Randomized double-blind Oral polypodium leucotomos extract appears to be a safe 81
placebo-controlled clinical trial and effective adjunctive treatment in combination with
topical hydroquinone and sunscreen for melasma
Pycnogenol/grape Oral Clinical trial Pycnogenol 75 mg is therapeutically effective and safe in 84
seed extract patients suffering from melasma
Oral Clinical trial Grape seed extract is safe and useful for improving chloasma 85
Silymarin Topical Randomized double-blind Silymarin shows improvement melasma in a 98
placebo-controlled clinical trial dose-dependent manner
Topical Comparative study There are no significant differences in the therapeutic 99
response between topical silymarin (0.7% and 1.4%)
versus hydroquinone 4% for melasma
Vitamin E Oral Multiclinical double-blind trial Vitamin C + E combination treatment has significantly 25
better results than vitamin C alone for chloasma
Oral Randomized double-blind Oral procyanidin + vitamins A, C, and E is safe and 26
placebo-controlled trial effective for epidermal melasma
Topical Randomized double-blind Cream containing 4% hydroquinone, 10% buffered 71
placebo-controlled trial glycolic acid, vitamins C + E, and sunscreen is
safe and effective for melasma

International Journal of Dermatology 2021, 60, 166–173 ª 2020 the International Society of Dermatology
Babbush, Babbush, and Khachemoune Antioxidant treatment for melasma Review 169

Table 1 Continued

Route of
Antioxidant administration Type of study Conclusion References

Zinc Topical Clinical trial Topical 10% zinc sulfate solution is safe and 93
effective for melasma
Topical Randomized double-blind Topical zinc is not highly effective in reducing 94
comparative trial the severity of melasma
Topical Randomized double-blind 10% zinc sulfate is not as effective as 4% hydroquinone 95
controlled trial cream in the treatment of melasma
Topical Pilot study A combination of tazarotene 0.075%, azelaic acid 20%, 96
tacrolimus 0.1%, and (microfine) zinc oxide 10% could
potentially be an effective, safe, and tolerable treatment
for moderate-to-severe melasma

Other antioxidants used for treatment of melasma include: azelaic acid, carotenoids, curcuma longa (turmeric), cysteamine, ellagic acid, glu-
tathione, kojic acid, resveratrol, and vitamin C.

Polypodium leucotomos melasma regression for both peeling methods but no significant
Polypodium leucotomos (PL) is used for the management of difference between groups; however, the amino fruit acid peel
various skin conditions, and this species of fern acts as a direct was less irritating and better tolerated.
scavenger of various ROS.79 Two randomized, double-blind,
placebo-controlled trials investigated oral PL extract (PLE) for Phytic acid
treatment of melasma. In a study of Hispanic women, the PLE Phytic acid, unlike other antioxidants, is a stable plant antioxidant
treatment group and placebo group both had improvment in that is not consumed by reacting with activated oxygen species.
melanin index and MASI score, but there was no significant Phytic acid has a high iron affinity, enabling it to effectively inhibit
intergroup difference.80 Additionally, a study of Asian patients various oxidative reactions, block hydroxyl radical formation and
resulted in a significant decrease in mMASI scores for both diminish lipid peroxidation.87 Combination peels containing phytic
treatment and placebo groups with a significantly lower mMASI acid have been investigated in various studies.
score and an improvement in the MelasQoL score in the PLE Al-Mokadem et al.88 investigated a chemical peel containing
group compared with placebo.81 phytic acid, GA, lactic acid, and mandelic acid in melasma
patients. The reduction in MASI score was significant; however,
Pycnogenol/grape seed extract pigmentation recurred because of unprotected sun exposure
Pycnogenol is an extract from French maritime pine. It contains and lack of patient compliance. Faghihi et al.89 determined a tri-
various flavonoids, namely phenolic acids and procyandins, and ple-combination peeling agent consisting of azelaic acid, resor-
it has been used as a therapeutic remedy for various conditions cinol, and phytic acid was safe and as effective as GA peel for
including circulatory dysfunction and wound healing. It has melasma treatment. However, Sarkar et al.90 found GA and sal-
strong antioxidant capacity and interacts with other cellular icylic–mandelic acid peels equally more efficacious than phytic
antioxidants.82 Grape seed extract also contains many flavo- acid combination peels.
noids, including proanthocyanidin, with similar antioxidant
effects against oxygen free radicals and oxidative stress.83 Zinc
Ni et al.84 conducted a study in which women with melasma Zinc is an essential trace element critical for the structure and
took oral tablets of pycnogenol tri-daily. After 30 days, overall effi- function of many macromolecules and enzymes in humans.91
cacy rate was 80%, and there was a significant decrease in pig- There are numerous mechanisms by which zinc functions as an
mentary intensity and average melasma area. Yamakoshi et al.85 antioxidant; however, zinc deficiency and excess can cause an
studied the efficacy of oral grape seed extract for melasma treat- increase in oxidative stress.92 Many studies have investigated
ment and found a significant decrease in melanin index. the efficacy of zinc in treating melasma, but there is conflicting
evidence about whether or not this trace metal provides thera-
Amino fruit acids peutic value.
Amino fruit acids are carboxylated acidic amino acids with In a study by Sharquie et al.,93 melasma patients were trea-
strong antioxidant properties and evidence of anti-aging and ted with topical zinc sulfate solution and displayed significant
anti-photopigmenting agents.86 Ilknur et al.86 conducted a sin- improvement in MASI score, with most patients maintaining
gle-blind randomized study of melasma patients to compare GA improvement 3 months after therapy cessation. Iraji et al.94 and
peels with amino fruit acid peels. There was significant Yousefi et al.95 also conducted studies to assess the efficacy of

ª 2020 the International Society of Dermatology International Journal of Dermatology 2021, 60, 166–173
170 Review Antioxidant treatment for melasma Babbush, Babbush, and Khachemoune

topical zinc, and both concluded zinc was not as effective in therapeutic value of various antioxidants for those suffering from
reducing melasma severity compared with hydroquinone. Kirsch this chronic disease. Vitamin E, niacinamide, polypodium leuco-
et al.96 studied a combination cream containing tazarotene, aze- tomos, pycnogenol, grape seed extract, amino fruit acids, phytic
laic acid, tacrolimus, and zinc oxide and found this compound acid, zinc, silymarin, Korean red ginseng powder, plant extracts,
to be effective and safe for melasma. and parsley all have clear evidence of antioxidant properties
and have been studied for treatment of hyperpigmentation and
Silymarin melasma.
Silymarin is a polyphenolic antioxidant from the milk thistle Although these compounds do not all have substantial evi-
plant, and it functions as both a free radical scavenger and lipid dence of benefit for patients with melasma, the investigation of
peroxidation inhibitor.97 numerous naturally occurring antioxidant compounds is encour-
In a study by Altaei,98 melasma patients used silymarin aging for dermatologists and patients suffering from this skin
cream and were 100% satisfied with significant pigment condition with a well-demonstrated impact on quality of life.
improvement and lesion size reduction. Likewise, in a study by
Nofal et al.,99 melasma patients received 0.7 or 1.4% silymarin
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