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UNDERWEAR (INCL.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 3

Contents
OVERVIEW............................................................................................................................................................................................9

What you need to know ..............................................................................................................................................10


Products covered in this report....................................................................................................................................10

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY................................................................................................................................................................. 11

The market..................................................................................................................................................................12
Consumer spending expected to reach £5.5 billion..........................................................................................................................................12
Figure 1: Consumer spending on underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the UK (including VAT), 2013-23...............................................12
Womenswear dominates, but menswear growth strong...................................................................................................................................13
Figure 2: Estimated consumer spending on underwear and nightwear, by category, 2018..............................................................................13
Companies and brands...............................................................................................................................................13
M&S leads, but online-only retailers stealing market share .............................................................................................................................13
Figure 3: Estimated share of UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear market by outlet type, 2017............................................................13
Victoria’s Secret stands out from the crowd......................................................................................................................................................14
Figure 4: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, April 2018.............................................................................................................14
The consumer ............................................................................................................................................................14
Self-purchasing most pronounced....................................................................................................................................................................14
Figure 5: Purchasing of underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the last 12 months, April 2018..................................................................14
What women are buying for themselves...........................................................................................................................................................15
Figure 6: Types of underwear, nightwear and loungewear women have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April 2018.................15
What men are buying for themselves...............................................................................................................................................................15
Figure 7: Types of underwear, nightwear and loungewear men have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April 2018......................16
Underwear attracts a higher average spend.....................................................................................................................................................17
Figure 8: Average amount spent on underwear and nightwear/loungewear in the last 12 months, April 2018................................................17
Most shop in clothing stores.............................................................................................................................................................................17
Figure 9: Where underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, April 2018.....................................................17
Fit should be a priority for retailers....................................................................................................................................................................18
Figure 10: Improvements desired when shopping for underwear, April 2018...................................................................................................18
Not enough emphasis being placed on comfort...............................................................................................................................................18
What we think..............................................................................................................................................................18
Figure 11: Attitudes towards shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, April 2018.........................................................................19

ISSUES & INSIGHTS......................................................................................................................................................................... 20

The shift towards online purchasing............................................................................................................................21


The facts...........................................................................................................................................................................................................21
The implications................................................................................................................................................................................................21
Own-label continues to dominate, but how can retailers encourage consumers to trade up?.................................... 22
The facts...........................................................................................................................................................................................................22
The implications................................................................................................................................................................................................22
Tapping into the body-positive trend............................................................................................................................23
The facts...........................................................................................................................................................................................................23
The implications................................................................................................................................................................................................23

THE MARKET..................................................................................................................................................................................... 25
What You Need to Know..............................................................................................................................26
Market set to grow 19% by 2023.................................................................................................................................26
Loungewear and nightwear driving growth..................................................................................................................26
Menswear continues to outperform.............................................................................................................................26
Consumers remain willing to spend............................................................................................................................26
Strong demand for plus-size and sportswear ranges..................................................................................................26
An aging population set to shape the market..............................................................................................................26

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Market Size and Forecast............................................................................................................................27


Underwear and nightwear market expected to grow 3.9% in 2018.............................................................................27
Figure 12: Consumer spending on underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the UK (including VAT), 2013-23.............................................27
Figure 13: Consumer spending underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the UK (including VAT) at current and constant prices,
2013-23.............................................................................................................................................................................................................28
Forecast methodology.................................................................................................................................................28
Market Segmentation...................................................................................................................................29
Menswear continues to outperform.............................................................................................................................29
Figure 14: Estimated consumer spending on underwear and nightwear, by category, 2018............................................................................29
Figure 15: Breakdown of estimated consumer spending on underwear and nightwear, by category, 2013-18................................................30

Market Drivers...............................................................................................................................................31
Changing dynamics in the UK population...................................................................................................................31
Figure 16: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2016-26.............................................................................................................31
Figure 17: Breakdown of trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2016-26.......................................................................................31
The influence of births and marriages on some underwear categories.......................................................................32
Figure 18: Total number of births and marriages in the UK, 2012-16...............................................................................................................32
High inflation seen throughout 2017............................................................................................................................32
Figure 19: Annual percentage change in consumer prices, March 2017-March 2018.....................................................................................32
Real incomes under pressure, but growing again.......................................................................................................33
Figure 20: Real wage growth – Average weekly earnings vs inflation, January 2014-March 2018..................................................................33
Consumer confidence remains robust.........................................................................................................................33
Figure 21: Consumer financial confidence, April 2013-May 2018....................................................................................................................34
Working-from-home culture influencing the market.....................................................................................................34
Figure 22: Where people work in a typical week, October 2017......................................................................................................................34
Health and fitness boom fuelling demand for sports underwear.................................................................................35
Figure 23: Sports participation in the last 12 months, June 2014 and July 2017.............................................................................................35
High levels of obesity create a need for size inclusivity..............................................................................................35
Figure 24: Overweight and obesity prevalence, 2012-16.................................................................................................................................36

COMPANIES AND BRANDS ........................................................................................................................................................ 37


What You Need to Know..............................................................................................................................38
M&S continues to dominate........................................................................................................................................38
Specialists struggle in a competitive market...............................................................................................................38
Sloggi and Triumph most trusted.................................................................................................................................38
Body positivity gaining momentum..............................................................................................................................38
New brand and product launches disrupt the market..................................................................................................38
Brands diversify with premium and activewear ranges...............................................................................................38
Ongoing investment into online shopping experience.................................................................................................38
Leading Players............................................................................................................................................39
Channels to market.....................................................................................................................................................39
M&S retains market leading position................................................................................................................................................................39
Figure 25: Estimated share of UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear market by outlet type, 2017..........................................................39
Mixed trading results from the specialists...................................................................................................................39
Victoria’s Secret reports sales uplift in 2018.....................................................................................................................................................39
Boux Avenue impacted declining footfall..........................................................................................................................................................40
Lovehoney sales boosted by lingerie................................................................................................................................................................40
Premium retailers struggle to grow sales..........................................................................................................................................................40
Figure 26: Leading specialist underwear retailers’ total UK revenues, 2012-17...............................................................................................40
Newer specialists increase footprint............................................................................................................................40
Honey Birdette plans major UK rollout..............................................................................................................................................................40
Boux Avenue and Bravissimo eye international expansion..............................................................................................................................40
Figure 27: Leading specialist underwear retailers’ total UK stores, 2012-17....................................................................................................41
Leading specialists’ sales per outlet............................................................................................................................41
Figure 28: Leading specialist underwear retailers’ estimated UK sales per outlet, 2012-17............................................................................41
Leading brands also struggling to grow.......................................................................................................................41
Figure 29: Leading underwear brands’ total UK revenues, 2012-17................................................................................................................42

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Mergers and acquisitions............................................................................................................................................42


Non-specialists continue to invest in underwear and nightwear category................................................................... 42
Department stores look to strengthen position.................................................................................................................................................42
Retailers look to grow revenues through expanded lingerie ranges.................................................................................................................42
Non-specialists’ underwear and nightwear space allocation ......................................................................................43
Figure 30: Space allocation estimates for men and women’s underwear/nightwear as a % of total clothing retail selling space,
October 2017....................................................................................................................................................................................................43

Launch Activity and Innovation..................................................................................................................44


Triumph Group eyes more premium position..............................................................................................................44
When underwear and activewear collide.....................................................................................................................44
Brands expand to be more inclusive...........................................................................................................................44
Figure 31: Nubian Skin Naked Collection, 2018...............................................................................................................................................45
Body positive campaigns gain momentum..................................................................................................................45
New brand launches – Les Girls Les Boys and Savage x Fenty.................................................................................45
Collaborations generate brand hype...........................................................................................................................46
Independent rejects discounting in favour of charitable giving....................................................................................46
Figure 32: The Pantry Underwear Islington London, 2018...............................................................................................................................46
Underwear pop-ups give new brands the spotlight.....................................................................................................47
Figure 33: Beija London Covent Garden Pop-up, 2017....................................................................................................................................47
Encouraging shoppers to try-before-they-buy.............................................................................................................47
Premium retailer launches bespoke fitting service......................................................................................................47
Ongoing investment into online...................................................................................................................................48
Advertising and Marketing Activity.............................................................................................................49
Underwear and nightwear advertising expenditure falling...........................................................................................49
Figure 34: Total above-the line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on underwear and nightwear, 2013-17......................49
Triumph ramps up expenditure...................................................................................................................................49
Figure 35: Total above-the line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on underwear and nightwear, by leading
advertisers, 2013-17.........................................................................................................................................................................................50
Digital now accounts for almost a third of adspend.....................................................................................................50
Figure 36: Total above-the line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on underwear and nightwear, by media type,
2017..................................................................................................................................................................................................................50
Key campaigns............................................................................................................................................................51
Campaigns .......................................................................................................................................................................................................51
Figure 37: Calvin Klein Underwear Campaign, 2018........................................................................................................................................51
Nielsen Ad Intel coverage............................................................................................................................................52
Brand Research ...........................................................................................................................................53
Brand map...................................................................................................................................................................53
Figure 38: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, April 2018...........................................................................................................53
Key brand metrics.......................................................................................................................................................53
Figure 39: Key metrics for selected brands, April 2018....................................................................................................................................53
Brand attitudes: Curvy Kate lacks brand awareness........................................................................................................................................54
Figure 40: Attitudes, by brand, April 2018.........................................................................................................................................................54
Brand personality: Sloggi considered accessible.............................................................................................................................................54
Figure 41: Brand personality – Macro image, April 2018..................................................................................................................................54
Triumph seen as classic...................................................................................................................................................................................55
Figure 42: Brand personality – Micro image, April 2018...................................................................................................................................55
Brand analysis.............................................................................................................................................................55
Victoria’s Secret is trend-setting.......................................................................................................................................................................55
Figure 43: User profile of Victoria’s Secret, April 2018.....................................................................................................................................55
Triumph lacks differentiation.............................................................................................................................................................................56
Figure 44: User profile of Triumph, April 2018..................................................................................................................................................56
Calvin Klein popular with affluent Millennials....................................................................................................................................................56
Figure 45: User profile of Calvin Klein, April 2018............................................................................................................................................56
Sloggi known for comfort..................................................................................................................................................................................57
Figure 46: User profile of Sloggi, April 2018.....................................................................................................................................................57
Heidi Klum Intimates seen as stylish ...............................................................................................................................................................57
Figure 47: User profile of Heidi Klum Intimates, April 2018..............................................................................................................................57

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Curvy Kate attracts a young customer..............................................................................................................................................................58


Figure 48: User profile of Curvy Kate, April 2018.............................................................................................................................................58

THE CONSUMER.............................................................................................................................................................................. 59
What You Need to Know..............................................................................................................................60
Three out of four consumers have bought underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last year............................... 60
Product preferences vary significantly by age ............................................................................................................60
Age and affluence plays an important role in how much consumers spend............................................................... 60
Young shoppers opt for value or premium, whilst older generation prefer middle-market labels................................ 60
More than a third now shop online..............................................................................................................................60
Still room for improvement in terms of fit and quality..................................................................................................60
Strong demand for more representative underwear campaigns.................................................................................60
Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear Purchasing................................................................................61
Most purchase for themselves....................................................................................................................................61
Figure 49: Purchasing of underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the last 12 months, April 2018................................................................61
Women drive gifting market ........................................................................................................................................61
Figure 50: Purchasing of underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the last 12 months, by gender, April 2018...............................................62
Over-65s less likely to purchase.................................................................................................................................62
Figure 51: Purchasing of underwear, nightwear and loungewear in the last 12 months, by age, April 2018....................................................62

What Women Buy.........................................................................................................................................63


Women continue to favour t-shirt bras........................................................................................................................63
Figure 52: Types of underwear, nightwear and loungewear women have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April 2018...............63
Changing underwear preferences with age ................................................................................................................63
Figure 53: Types of underwear women have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, by age, April 2018..............................................64
Young women drive loungewear purchases................................................................................................................64
Figure 54: Types of nightwear and loungewear women have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, by age, April 2018.....................65
Most women buy several different types of underwear, nightwear and loungewear................................................... 65
Figure 55: Repertoire of the types of nightwear and loungewear women have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April
2018..................................................................................................................................................................................................................66

What Men Buy...............................................................................................................................................67


High levels of underwear purchasing amongst men...................................................................................................67
Figure 56: Types of underwear, nightwear and loungewear men have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April 2018....................67
Older men favour briefs over boxers...........................................................................................................................68
Figure 57: Types of underwear men have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, by age, April 2018...................................................68
Young men most likely to buy nightwear and loungewear..........................................................................................68
Figure 58: Types of nightwear and loungewear men have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, by age, April 2018..........................68
Less purchasing fluidity in men’s market.....................................................................................................................69
Figure 59: Repertoire of the types of nightwear and loungewear men have bought for themselves in the last 12 months, April 2018............69

How Much They Spend................................................................................................................................70


Consumers spend more on underwear ......................................................................................................................70
Figure 60: Average amount spent on underwear and nightwear/loungewear in the last 12 months, April 2018..............................................70
Older Millennials most likely to splash out on underwear............................................................................................70
Figure 61: Average amount spent on underwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, April 2018............................................................70
Men spend more on nightwear and loungewear.........................................................................................................71
Figure 62: Average amount spent on nightwear/loungewear in the last 12 months, by demographics, April 2018..........................................71

Brand Types Purchased...............................................................................................................................72


More than half stick with standard underwear brands.................................................................................................72
Figure 63: Brand preferences when shopping for underwear, April 2018.........................................................................................................72
High usage of value brands in the nightwear and loungewear sector.........................................................................72
Figure 64: Brand preferences when shopping for nightwear/loungewear, April 2018.......................................................................................73
Men most likely to invest in premium labels................................................................................................................73
Figure 65: Brand preferences when shopping for underwear and nightwear/loungewear, by gender, April 2018............................................73
Young shoppers favour value brands..........................................................................................................................73
Figure 66: Brand preferences when shopping for underwear and nightwear/loungewear, by age, April 2018.................................................74

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 7

Affluent more willing to trade up in their purchases.....................................................................................................74


Figure 67: Brand preferences when shopping for underwear and nightwear/loungewear, by socio-economic status, April 2018...................74

How and Where They Shop.........................................................................................................................75


Majority continue to shop in-store...............................................................................................................................75
Figure 68: How underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, April 2018......................................................75
Most shop where it is convenient................................................................................................................................75
Figure 69: Where underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, April 2018...................................................76
Underwear specialists popular with young and affluent .............................................................................................76
Figure 70: Where underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, by age and income, April 2018..................77
Underwear specialists most popular online.................................................................................................................77
Figure 71: How underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, by retailer used, April 2018...........................77
Consumers head to specialists for premium brands...................................................................................................78
Figure 72: Where consumers shop for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, by brand preference, April 2018...........................................78
Almost half loyal to one retailer...................................................................................................................................78
Figure 73: Repertoire of where underwear, nightwear and loungewear was purchased in the last 12 months, April 2018..............................78

Improvements Desired When Shopping for Underwear...........................................................................79


Fit and quality remain top priorities.............................................................................................................................79
Figure 74: Improvements desired when shopping for underwear, April 2018...................................................................................................79
Size guides important to younger women...................................................................................................................79
Figure 75: Improvements desired when shopping for underwear, by age and gender, April 2018...................................................................80
Young men highly influenced by brand assortment.....................................................................................................80
Figure 76: Improvements desired when shopping for underwear, by age and gender, April 2018...................................................................81

Attitudes towards Shopping for Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear.............................................82


Trend for comfort shows no signs of fading fast..........................................................................................................82
Figure 77: Attitudes towards shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, April 2018.........................................................................82
Young appear more dissatisfied with range................................................................................................................83
Figure 78: Attitudes towards shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, by age and gender, April 2018.........................................83
Buying underwear, nightwear or loungewear is seen as a treat for most women....................................................... 83
Figure 79: Attitudes towards shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, by age and gender, April 2018.........................................84
Over-55s still think shopping in-store is easier ...........................................................................................................84
Figure 80: Attitudes towards shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear, by age and gender, April 2018.........................................84

Target Groups...............................................................................................................................................85
Figure 81: Attitudes towards underwear, nightwear and loungewear, by target groups, April 2018.................................................................85
Key Characteristics ....................................................................................................................................................85
Reluctant Spenders..........................................................................................................................................................................................85
Creatures of Comfort........................................................................................................................................................................................85
Savvy Enthusiasts.............................................................................................................................................................................................85

APPENDIX.......................................................................................................................................................................................... 86
Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information......................................................................87
Data sources...............................................................................................................................................................87
Financial definitions.....................................................................................................................................................87
Abbreviations...............................................................................................................................................................87
Consumer research methodology...............................................................................................................................87
Market Size and Forecast............................................................................................................................88
Forecast methodology.................................................................................................................................................88

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY...................................................................................................................................................... 89
UK Research Methodology..........................................................................................................................90
Consumer research..........................................................................................................................................................................................90
Sampling and weighting..............................................................................................................................................90
Face to Face Surveys ......................................................................................................................................................................................90
Online Surveys..................................................................................................................................................................................................90

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FocusVision Revelation....................................................................................................................................................................................91
Further Analysis................................................................................................................................................................................................91
Brand & Social Media Research.................................................................................................................................92
Trade research............................................................................................................................................................92
Informal.............................................................................................................................................................................................................92
Formal ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................92
Desk research.............................................................................................................................................................92
Statistical Forecasting.................................................................................................................................................92
Statistical modelling..........................................................................................................................................................................................92
Qualitative insight..............................................................................................................................................................................................93
The Mintel fan chart.....................................................................................................................................................93
Weather analogy...............................................................................................................................................................................................93

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OVERVIEW

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 10

What you need to know A major shift in the underwear market has also been the move
towards more body-positive messaging, with a number of different
A consistent demand for goods has been sustained within the UK brands and retailers seeing massive success with campaigns
underwear, nightwear and loungewear category, with consumer that are inclusive and unretouched. As such, promoting a positive
spending on these products continuing to uptrend. Mintel body image will be increasingly important for brands and retailers
estimates that the total market grew 3.6% in 2017, with further going forward.
growth of 3.9% forecast in 2018.
Products covered in this report
Growth is being driven by nightwear and loungewear, with a rise
in the amount of time people are spending at home, alongside This Report examines consumer behaviour in relation to the
a new focus on loungewear driven by the athleisure lifestyle purchase of underwear, nightwear and loungewear. For the
movement, helping to generate a renewed interest amongst purpose of the Report, Mintel includes the following product
consumers in these categories. In the underwear market, demand categories:
is fuelled by product innovation, with an ongoing preference for
seamless underwear and non-wired bras helping to buoy the • Women’s lingerie – including bras, briefs and other items such
womenswear market, whilst greater choice of menswear products as hosiery
as retailers target men more proactively is helping to boost sales
of men’s underwear. • Men’s underwear – including briefs, boxers and other items
such as socks
Marks & Spencer continues to dominate the market, but it is
struggling to capture younger underwear shoppers, who instead • Women’s and men’s nightwear and loungewear – including
shop with the value players like Primark and H&M or specialist night dresses, dressing gowns pyjama sets and separate tops
retailers such as Boux Avenue and Victoria’s Secret. Although and bottoms designed to only be worn in the home.
the specialists remain popular with younger shoppers, many
are struggling in a competitive market, particularly as consumer We exclude all children’s underwear, nightwear and loungewear
preferences have swayed towards more basic product styles, from this Report.
which makes it easier for non-specialists to compete.

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EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 12

GROWTH IN THE UK UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR SECTOR HAS BEEN STRONG, WITH SALES
BOOSTED BY AN INCREASE IN THE AMOUNT OF TIME PEOPLE ARE SPENDING AT HOME, WHICH HAS IN TURN
DRIVEN A NEW DEMAND FOR NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR PRODUCTS. THE MARKET IS HIGHLY COMPETITIVE,
WITH A BROAD ASSORTMENT OF RETAILERS VYING FOR CONSUMER SPENDING. AS SUCH, RETAILERS NEED TO
KEEP PACE WITH CHANGING TRENDS AND CONTINUE TO INNOVATE IN ORDER TO COMPETE.

Samantha Dover, Senior Retail Analyst

The market almost £4.6 billion in 2018. The market has further driven demand for attractive and
been buoyed by strong sales growth in the better quality nightwear.
Consumer spending expected to nightwear and loungewear category, as
reach £5.5 billion the amount of time people are spending at Mintel forecasts that growth in this market
home has increased due to the adoption of will remain stable in the next five years,
Mintel estimates that consumer spending a more flexible working culture, with more with consumer spending expected to reach
on underwear, nightwear and loungewear people than ever able to work from home. £5.5 billion by 2023, representing 19.1%
has grown 18.8% during the last five Meanwhile, the trend for pyjama-style growth.
years, with spending expected to reach outerwear garments in recent years has

FIGURE 1: CONSUMER SPENDING ON UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR IN THE UK (INCLUDING VAT),
2013-23

Source: Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 13

Womenswear dominates, but FIGURE 2: ESTIMATED CONSUMER SPENDING ON UNDERWEAR AND


menswear growth strong NIGHTWEAR, BY CATEGORY, 2018

As the chart below illustrates,


womenswear continues to dominate the
UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear
market, accounting for approximately Men's nightwear
70.2% of total spending. Whilst menswear and loungewear
accounts for just 29.8% of consumer 13%
spending, growth in this segment is
outpacing womenswear as more men
are becoming invested in their personal
appearance. This combined with the
increased focus amongst UK retailers on Men's underwear
menswear has fuelled growth in a number 17% Women's
of key menswear categories, including underwear
48%
underwear, as men have more choice than
ever before.

Companies and brands

M&S leads, but online-only


Women's
retailers stealing market share nightwear and
loungewear
Mirroring the wider fashion market, the 22%
UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear
sector is highly fragmented. Spending on
such products is distributed across a wide
range of retailers, including supermarkets, Source: Mintel
clothing specialists and department
stores. The only dominant player is FIGURE 3: ESTIMATED SHARE OF UK UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
Marks & Spencer (M&S), driven by the LOUNGEWEAR MARKET BY OUTLET TYPE, 2017
retailer’s strength in women’s lingerie. A
major shift in the channels to market has
been the growth of online-only retailers,
as consumers are increasingly fulfilling Other
branded replacement purchases online 4%
through retailers like Amazon to take Online-only
M&S
advantage of lower prices. retailers
20%
10%

Lingerie
specialists
11%

Department
stores
12% Clothing
retailers
27%

Supermarkets
16%

Source: Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 14

Victoria’s Secret stands out from FIGURE 4: ATTITUDES TOWARDS AND USAGE OF SELECTED BRANDS, APRIL
the crowd 2018

Despite ongoing negative publicity


surrounding Victoria’s Secret, with many
critics stating that the retailer is out of
touch with what modern women want from
a lingerie brand, Mintel’s brand research
shows that UK consumers remain
receptive to the brand. Although the brand
falls behind brands like Triumph, Sloggi
and Calvin Klein in terms of trust, it is
strongly associated with being fun, stylish
and trend setting. Furthermore, some 28%
of consumers that have heard of Victoria’s
Secret say that it is a brand that makes
them feel more confident – the highest
response across all of the brands included
within this survey.

Elsewhere, Triumph, Sloggi and Calvin


Klein all benefit from their strong brand
awareness, with all scoring highly across a Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
number of key metrics. Calvin Klein is the bubble size represents usage (% ever used)
brand that consumers are most committed Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
to, whilst Heidi Klum Intimates and Curvy
Kate fall behind the other underwear labels FIGURE 5: PURCHASING OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR
included in the research due to limited IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018
brand awareness.
“Which of the following statements about underwear, loungewear or nightwear
The consumer apply to you in the last 12 months?”

Self-purchasing most pronounced %

Mintel’s consumer research found that


overall 75% of UK consumers have
purchased some kind of underwear, I have purchased them for myself 70
nightwear or loungewear garment in the
last year. Aligning with our channels to
market data, women continue to drive this
market. They are significantly more likely
than men to have purchased underwear, I have purchased them for someone else 19
nightwear or loungewear in the last year,
both for themselves and for others. The
research also found that age, affluence
and regional location also impact on
purchasing behaviour. I have not purchased any in the last 12
25
months

Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+


Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 15

What women are buying for FIGURE 6: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR
themselves WOMEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL
2018
The chart below shows the garments
which women are most likely have “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
purchased for themselves in the last year
and the data highlights some key trends, %
particularly within the underwear market.
Any underwear 85
Volume purchasing is largely driven by
pants, with 69% of female underwear Briefs 60
shoppers stating they bought some form Seamless/t-shirt bra 23
of pants in the last year, including briefs,
Enhancing bra 19
thongs and shorts. The typically lower cost
associated with such products compared Sports bra 14
to bras, alongside greater need for more Non-wired bra 13
frequent replacement will be driving the Thong 10
higher purchasing levels in this category.
Shorts 9

However, bras also play an important Other Underwear 9


role in the market (55% of women have Shapewear 7
bought one in the last year) and trends in Strapless/multiway bra 6
this category are more subject to change.
Maternity/nursing bra 3
The shift in recent years towards more
natural bra shapes is apparent, with t-shirt Any lounge/nightwear 59
bras more popular than enhancing bras, Matching pyjamas 34
alongside a resurgence in the popularity Bottoms 19
of non-wired bras has become apparent
T-shirt/top 15
amongst young women.
Dressing gown 13
What men are buying for Slip/nightdress 12
themselves
Sweatshirt 7

Mirroring womenswear purchasing Camisole/vest 7


somewhat, the menswear market is Other lounge/nightwear 4
similarly driven by sales of pants, with Other 60
some interesting differences in the types of
Socks 50
pants men choose to purchase dependent
on age. Whilst older men largely prefer Hosiery 20
briefs, younger men are significantly more Thermals 9
likely to buy boxers, both loose and tight- Don't know/can't remember 3
fitting. There has been a particularly strong
resurgence of loose fitting boxers amongst
young men, with a number of the youth Base: 772 female internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for
fashion retailers actively pushing such themselves in the last 12 months
garments, whilst Calvin Klein has pushed Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
the trend forward with its ck one skinny
jean boxer, which is a loose fitting style
boxer specifically designed to be worn
under skinny jeans.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 16

FIGURE 7: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR MEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE
LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018

“Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”

Any underwear 82

Tight-fitting trunks/boxer shorts 29

Baggy boxer shorts 28

Briefs 27

Y-fronts 9

Thong 5

Other underwear 3

Any lounge/nightwear 35

Bottoms (eg joggers) 16

Vest/t-shirt 12

Matching pyjamas 12

Sweatshirt 8

Dressing gown 6

Other lounge/nightwear 2

Other 61

Socks 57

Thermals 13

Don't know/can't remember 6

Base: 626 male internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 17

Underwear attracts a higher FIGURE 8: AVERAGE AMOUNT SPENT ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR/
average spend LOUNGEWEAR IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018

We also asked consumers about how “Approximately how much have you spent on each of the following products in
much they tend to spend on underwear the last 12 months for yourself?”
and nightwear/ loungewear in a year. In
38
doing so, we found that average spend per
person on these categories is relatively
low, particularly in comparison with
research for Mintel’s Menswear – UK, £
March 2018 and Womenswear – UK, May 34
2018 Reports, which found that 25% of
British males and 31% of British females
spent £25-£49.99 on their last clothes
Underwear Lounge/Nightwear
shopping trip alone.
Base: 854 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear in the last 12 months and 505 internet users
This low average spend per person also aged 16+ who have purchased loungewear or nightwear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
aligns with our research that found that Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
consumers tend to buy value and standard
underwear, nightwear and loungewear FIGURE 9: WHERE UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WAS
brands as opposed to trading up to more PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018
premium labels.
“Where have you bought underwear, loungewear or nightwear for yourself or
Most shop in clothing stores others in the last 12 months?”

The clothing specialists have remained %


the primary destination for underwear,
Clothing stores 57
nightwear and loungewear purchasing in
Marks & Spencer 27
the UK, with M&S and Primark particularly Primark 23
popular places to shop. At opposite ends Next 11
of the spectrum, the supermarkets are H&M 8
also popular for the value offer, whilst Other clothing store 9
department stores attract those looking Supermarkets 34
for more premium brands. The underwear Tesco 16
silhouette that is being favoured by Asda 14
many women at present, with consumers Sainsbury's 11
shunning body-sculpting underwear like Other supermarket 3
push-up and cleavage enhancing bras in Department stores 21
favour of softer shapes like the bralettes Debenhams 10
with less padding and lighter-weight cups, John Lewis 6
House of Fraser 3
has also made it easier for non-specialists
Other department store 5
to compete.
Online-only retailers 17
Amazon 10
There has also been a significant shift
ASOS 3
towards online purchasing in this market, Figleaves 0.4
with more than a third (34%) of underwear, Other online-only retailer 7
nightwear and loungewear consumers now Underwear specialists 15
shopping online. Victoria's Secret 5
Ann Summers 5
Boux Avenue 3
Bravissimo 3
Independent underwear store 2
Other specialist 2
Other retailers 11
Sports Store (eg JD Sports) 5
Designer store (eg Calvin Klein) 2
Outlet store 2
Other retailer 4
Don't know/can't remember 7

Base: 1,460 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
months and specified how they shopped
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 18

Fit should be a priority for FIGURE 10: IMPROVEMENTS DESIRED WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
retailers APRIL 2018

Fit continues to be a major issue in the “Which of the following would you most like to see improved when shopping for
UK underwear industry, with consistent underwear?”
reports that women are commonly wearing
the wrong size bra. Our research confirms %
that is indeed an issue for consumers, with
fit being the factor that most consumers
would like to see improved when shopping Product fit 40
for underwear. Perhaps unsurprisingly,
this figure is even higher amongst women, Product quality 38
peaking amongst women aged 35-54 at
50%. Although there is ongoing investment
amongst a number of major players in the Size guides 33
lingerie industry, this research suggests
that there is still room for improvement.
Loyalty/reward schemes 25
The only factor that men are more likely
than women to say they would like to Range of brands 21
be improved when shopping is brand
assortment, which implies there may be
some fatigue amongst men in the brands More frequently updated ranges 15
that most retailers offer.
Changing room experience 13
Not enough emphasis being
placed on comfort
Customer service 11
Underwear, nightwear and loungewear
consumers almost exclusively feel that
Store environment 8
comfort is more important than design
when shopping for these products. What
is particularly interesting about this data None of these 21
is that there is very little disparity by age,
with young people almost as likely as older
consumers to agree with this statement. Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear for themselves in the last 12 months
This means that using comfort as a core Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
message in any communications could be
a differentiator for brands. remained robust, it continues to be a That said, opportunities remain to capture
challenging sector which is not only largely more consumer spending, with a number
The chart below also highlights the driven by replacement purchasing but is of brands and retailers looking to enhance
prominence of replacement purchasing in also highly fragmented, with a broad range the retail experience, both in-store and
this market, with almost two thirds (60%) of retailers capturing consumer spending. online, whilst investing in more niche
of consumers saying that it is only worth The tendency for most consumers to product categories to help fuel growth.
buying new items when you need to shop wherever is cheap and convenient
replace old items, rising to 72% of young means that there are very few dominant
men. players, with M&S the only exception. This
kind of retail environment has resulted in
What we think intense pricing competition, particularly
in the branded market, with the growth in
Whilst growth in the UK underwear, online making consumers more savvy and
nightwear and loungewear market has likely to shop around for the best price.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 19

FIGURE 11: ATTITUDES TOWARDS SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR, APRIL 2018

“To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements about shopping for underwear, nightwear and
loungewear?”

Comfort is more important than design 80 16 3


Campaigns should feature models that represent the average
73 23 4
person
It is important to buy underwear from a trustworthy retailer 68 26 6
It is only worth buying new items when you need to replace old
60 24 16
items (eg different size, worn-out)
Shopping online is often cheaper than in-store 57 33 10

It is important to wear nice lounge/nightwear at home 56 32 11

Shopping in-store is easier than online 56 28 16

Buying new underwear, nightwear or loungewear is a treat 56 28 16

It is better to try products on in-store before purchasing 54 31 14

The range available at a lot of retailers is too similar 52 37 11

It is only worth buying them when there is a sale on 46 33 21

Branded products are better quality than own-label 38 41 21

Any Agree Neither agree nor disagree Any Disagree

Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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ISSUES &
INSIGHTS

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 21

The shift towards online The facts


purchasing
• Mintel estimates that consumer spending on underwear and nightwear will reach £4.6
billion in 2018, with online gradually accounting for a bigger proportion of the market.

• More than a third (34%) of UK consumers now shop for underwear, nightwear and
loungewear online, rising to 39% of Millennials.

• Perceived lower prices are encouraging consumers to shop online, with most
underwear consumers (57%) stating that they think shopping online is often cheaper
than in-store.

• One in five consumers (17%) have bought items of underwear, nightwear or


loungewear from an online-only retailer in the last year, with Amazon a growing force.

The implications

There has been a significant shift towards online purchasing in the UK retail market
and the underwear sector has not been immune to this change – despite challenges
regarding size and fit, particularly in the women’s underwear market. Not only are more
and more people shopping online for fashion, but there has also been a rise in the use of
online to research products ahead of purchase.

This is something we discuss in depth in Mintel’s Fashion Online – UK, June 2017
Report. Research for the report found that two thirds (66%) of internet users in the UK
have bought fashion online in the last year, with 53% of those consumers stating they
now make all or most of their fashion purchases online. However, the report also shows
the influence of online even when shopping in a physical retail space, with 39% of online
fashion consumers saying they now use their smartphone whilst in-store. This helps to
put into context the influence of online on all fashion purchases, including underwear.

The use of smartphones whilst shopping in-store for fashion goes hand-in-hand with one
of the key drivers of why people are increasingly shopping online for undergarments;
price. Rising smartphone usage means that consumers can now price-match similar
garments online easier than ever before. This has created an extremely competitive
environment in terms of pricing, particularly within the branded market. Although only a
limited number of consumers tend to buy into premium brands within this market, they
still account for a significant proportion of consumer spending due to the typically higher
value of designer products. As such, downward pressure on the branded market can
significantly impact growth.

Amazon has played an important role in this downward pressure on the price of branded
underwear, nightwear and loungewear garments. Amazon is a growing force in the UK
and global retail market, with research for Mintel’s Online Retailing – UK, July 2018
Report showing that 85% of UK consumers have purchased something from Amazon in
the last year and 31% have bought fashion items, whilst one in four (25%) UK consumers
are now a member of Amazon Prime. As Amazon continues to drive sales through its
extremely competitive pricing strategy, this is having a major impact on the branded
fashion market. In the underwear sector, this means that consumers can often find their
favourite branded underwear pieces on Amazon at lower prices.

This is important because of the dominance of replacement purchasing in the UK


underwear sector. Indeed, 60% of UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear consumers
think it is only worth buying such items to replace old ones. This replacement purchasing
means that consumers often make replacement purchases with like-for-like garments
and online has made that easier and more convenient than ever before. Therefore, we
expect that online will continue on a strong growth trajectory, particularly as retailers
continue to invest in online to improve the shopping experience. However, that
investment is making consumers more demanding and retailers will need to match the
online experience that the most innovative pureplays offer in order to compete.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 22

Own-label continues to dominate, The facts


but how can retailers encourage
consumers to trade up? • The UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear market continues to be driven by own-
label purchases.

• Some 84% of consumers typically buy value or standard own-label underwear whilst
90% of consumers buy value or standard own-label nightwear and loungewear.

• Non-specialists dominate, with 57% and 34% of consumers saying that they
bought underwear, nightwear or loungewear from a clothing retailer or supermarket
respectively in the last year.

• More than half (56%) of UK consumers think it is important to wear nice lounge or
nightwear and 56% also think that buying new underwear is a treat.

The implications

Despite robust demand and consistent growth in the UK underwear, nightwear and
loungewear market, the market remains challenging as consumers continue to only buy
underwear and nightwear as replacement purchases and tend to seek low prices when
doing so. This, combined with rising competition as more brands and retailers enter the
market, makes it increasingly difficult for the leading players to retain or grow market
share.

These challenges are reflected in the performance of some of the leading players.
A number of the major underwear brands have reported declining UK sales, driven
in part by the rapid growth of younger brands that have been able to gain exposure
through social media and attract young consumers. Meanwhile, a number of the leading
specialist lingerie retailers have become reliant on expansion through increased store
numbers and entry into new international markets to drive growth as they also struggle
with increased competition in the market.

This kind of retail environment means that it is increasingly important for retailers to
ensure they have a compelling and differentiated range of goods. Therefore, retailers
need to have the right underwear, nightwear and loungewear products at the right price
in order to compete. In terms of product, an understanding of consumer preferences is
imperative and trends in the underwear market can change quite significantly. The most
recent example of this has been the change in what young people are buying, with an
uplift in young women buying non-wired bras and high-waist briefs, whilst loose-fitting
boxers have seen a resurgence in popularity amongst young men. Such shifts are
important and retailers need to keep pace with these trends.

However, having an effective pricing strategy is also important and this is where retailers
can learn from other sectors. In retail sectors like food and beauty the good-better-
best strategy in terms of range and pricing has been an effective way to encourage
consumers to spend more. Few retailers have utilised this opportunity in the underwear
market, but it could be an effective way to encourage consumers to trade up in their
purchases, particularly if retailers can highlight the advantage of more premium ranges
in terms of fit and quality, which are highlighted as factors that consumers want to be
improved when shopping for underwear.

Use of a good-better-best strategy could also help retailers offset the lack of trust UK
consumers place in the quality of branded fashion. Research for Mintel’s Designer
Fashion – UK, November 2017 Report found that 52% of consumers don’t trust that
designer fashion is better quality than non-designer fashion and this theme is mirrored
in this Report’s consumer research, which found that just 38% of underwear, nightwear
and loungewear consumers think branded products are better quality than own-label. As
such, if retailers want consumers to trade up to branded ranges, they need to convince
them of the benefits of doing so, otherwise there is a risk that they will continue to seek
value for money and trade down in their purchases.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 23

This is a particular threat as more discounters continue to eye growth in the fashion
market by extending into new categories like underwear, with retailers like Pep & Co,
Aldi and Lidl looking to drive prices down in the market even further with their own-label
ranges.

Tapping into the body-positive The facts


trend
• Almost three out of four consumers (73%) think that underwear advertising campaigns
should feature models that represent the average person.

• Two fifths (40%) of consumers would like to see product fit improved when shopping
for underwear, highlighting an opportunity for innovation in terms of sizing.

• Data from the Office for National Statistics (ONS) reveals that almost two thirds of
adults (61%) are now classified as overweight or obese, reiterating the need for size-
inclusive ranges.

• Mintel Trend Serving the Underserved discusses how it is now critical for both brands
and retailers to start building a more inclusive marketing strategy.

The implications

One of the biggest trends in the underwear industry in recent years has been the shift
towards greater inclusivity. This is not only shaping advertising and marketing strategies
in the sector, but product ranges have also changed as a result. This is a theme that has
taken a particularly strong hold in the US market.

As we discuss in Mintel’s Men’s and Women’s Underwear and Sleepwear – US,


February 2018 Report, the American underwear market is similarly going through a
dramatic period of change. Tried and true brands are still dominating, but newer start-
ups and other online-only players are offering fresh alternatives and making inroads,
especially among younger buyers. A major part of this has been the shift amongst
female-targeted brands which are moving away from marketing with a heavy dose of
sexuality toward themes of empowerment, body positivity, and confidence. In this market,
this strategy has seen brands like Aerie succeed, whilst retailers that haven’t adopted this
approach, like Victoria’s Secret, have been struggling.

Although performance of the leading players in the UK has been less polarised, this
trend is beginning to take hold and consumers are beginning to demand more inclusivity
in advertising. Consumer research for Mintel’s Clothing Retailing – UK, October 2017
Report shows people want to see more diversity in fashion advertising, but research for
this Report reveals that underwear, nightwear and loungewear consumers show an even
stronger desire for more representation. As such, there will be increasing pressure on
brands and retailers in this sector to use a diverse and representative range of models.
A number of youth fashion retailers have seen huge success from embracing this trend,
including ASOS and Missguided. Therefore, we expect more retailers to see the value in
becoming more inclusive.

However, as we mentioned earlier, this isn’t a trend that is only impacting on


communication. A number of underwear brands have been looking at how they can
better meet the needs of a more diverse range of customers. This has resulted in greater
range expansion, such as the addition of more plus-size products and larger cup sizes
to ranges. Meanwhile, another important product trend that has gained momentum has
been the shift towards more inclusivity in nude underwear, with a number of retailers
beginning to offer nude underwear in shades that cater to a more diverse range of skin
tones. This is something that we expect to become particularly mainstream in the coming
years, as consumers will become expectant of such diversity and retailers that don’t
follow suit will risk falling behind.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 24

Whilst such developments are no doubt positive, it is important to understand how this
trend will continue to shape the market and there remain opportunities for retailers to
better meet their customers’ needs through more personalisation. As fit continues to be
a major pain point for underwear consumers in the UK, retailers that can address this
issue will be best placed to succeed. Therefore, we expect to see greater investment
into fit, which could see retailers begin to offer more bespoke and/or half-size underwear
products, right through to more personalisation in terms of fitting expertise with greater
use of technology to help customers find the right products.

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THE MARKET

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 26

What You Need to Know


Market set to grow 19% by 2023 Consumers remain willing to spend

Growth in the underwear, nightwear and loungewear market Consumer spending power was weakened in 2017, with high
continues to be robust, with Mintel estimating that consumer levels of consumer price inflation outstripping wage growth
spending will rise 3.9% in 2018, making the market worth throughout the year. Inflation reached a four-year high of 2.8%
approximately £4.6 billion to the UK economy. Similar rates of in September 2017 and remained similarly high until early
growth are projected over the next five years and Mintel forecasts 2018. Such trends can have a significant impact on consumer
that consumer spending on underwear, nightwear and loungewear confidence and make people adopt more cautious spending
will reach £5.5 billion by 2023 (see Market Size and Forecast). habits. However, Mintel’s Finance Tracker shows that consumers
have remained relatively confident about their finances and in
Loungewear and nightwear driving growth turn retail sales growth in the UK has been robust. At the time of
writing, real wages have also returned to growth again, which will
Growth in this market is largely being driven by increased only further provide a boost to consumer confidence levels (see
consumer spending on nightwear and loungewear. In 2018, we Market Drivers).
estimate that spending on underwear will increase 2.4% whilst
spending on nightwear and loungewear is expected to grow 6.9%. Strong demand for plus-size and sportswear ranges
A rise in the number of people working from home has been a
key driver in the nightwear and loungewear market, as people A significant proportion of the UK population are classified
have become more willing to invest in the clothing they wear as overweight or obese. Although this is not a new trend, it
at home. Meanwhile, growth in the underwear market remains continues to have an impact on the UK underwear, nightwear and
low as people tend to seek value for money and often only buy loungewear market, fuelling demand for both plus-size products
underwear for replacement purposes (see Market Segmentation). and more inclusive marketing campaigns. Meanwhile, conflicting
with this trend somewhat, there also continues to be strong
Menswear continues to outperform demand for sports underwear garments as participation in sport
remains high (see Market Drivers).
Womenswear dominates in the UK underwear, nightwear and
loungewear market, accounting for 70% of consumer spending. An aging population set to shape the market
However, menswear has been a key driver of growth, with sales
of men’s undergarments expected to rise 2.8% in 2018 compared The UK is also faced with an aging population, with the number
to womenswear’s growth of around 2.3%. This mirrors the wider of over-55s expected to rise 19% in the 10 years to 2026, which
fashion market, with menswear’s growth continuing to outpace will result in this demographic accounting for approximately a third
that of womenswear as men become increasingly invested in their of the total population by 2026. Meanwhile, in contrast, the ONS
personal appearance (see Market Segmentation). also projects that the number of 15-34s will decline 1.3% and the
number of 35-54s will fall 1.6%. As young consumers tend to drive
sales of underwear, nightwear and loungewear, such changes in
the age structure of the UK population could have a significant
impact (see Market Drivers).

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 27

Market Size and Forecast


Underwear and nightwear market only tend to buy underwear to replace old specialists such as the clothing retailers
expected to grow 3.9% in 2018 items. and supermarkets remaining popular
places to buy underwear, nightwear and
Mintel estimates that consumer spending In the next five years we forecast that loungewear products. Such retailers
on underwear, nightwear and loungewear the total underwear, nightwear and benefit from consumers wanting to buy
is broadly in line with that of the wider loungewear market will grow by around underwear alongside their clothes. As
clothing market and will grow 3.9% in 19%, placing it largely in line with the wider value continues to be a priority for many
2018 to reach £4.6 billion, with similar fashion market. However much of this shoppers, retailers operating at the lower
growth projected into 2019. To give greater growth is expected to be driven by sales end of the market continue to perform
context to the market, we break it down of nightwear and loungewear, which we well, which is illustrated in our consumer
into two core categories – underwear and project will grow 39% over the next five research (see Where They Shop).
nightwear/loungewear. At present, growth years to reach £2.2 billion. Meanwhile, The same research also confirms the
is being driven by the nightwear and sales of underwear are only expected to strength of the non-specialists, with M&S,
loungewear segment, with sales expected increase 8.8% during the same period, Primark and Tesco the places where UK
to grow 6.9% in 2018 as consumers which will mean the market will be worth consumers are most likely to make their
have become more willing to invest in the £3.3 billion by 2023. That said, innovation underwear, nightwear and loungewear
clothing they wear at home. This has been and fashion trends are important purchases.
fuelled by a number of factors. However, growth drivers in the underwear market.
the increasing number of people adopting Therefore, when new products launch or We estimate that online sales account for
a more flexible work life has been a key when underwear-style outer garments are approximately 25% of consumer spending,
driver, particularly the rise in people popular, such as camisoles or pyjama-style which will make the UK online underwear,
working from home. In contrast, growth in tops, the market is often boosted. nightwear and loungewear market worth
the underwear market remains low with around £1 billion in 2018.
2.4% uplift anticipated in 2018 as people The market continues to be both highly
continue to seek value for money and saturated and fragmented, with the non-

FIGURE 12: CONSUMER SPENDING ON UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR IN THE UK (INCLUDING
VAT), 2013-23

Source: Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 28

Forecast methodology FIGURE 13: CONSUMER SPENDING UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND


LOUNGEWEAR IN THE UK (INCLUDING VAT) AT CURRENT AND CONSTANT
For full details of forecast methodology PRICES, 2013-23
please see Appendix: Market Size and
Forecast.
Total Index % £m at Index %
annual 2018 annual
£m
change prices change

2013 3,866 84 na 4,311 94 na


2014 3,965 86 2.6 4,319 94 0.2
2015 4,096 89 3.3 4,419 96 2.3
2016 4,266 93 4.2 4,522 98 2.3
2017 4,420 96 3.6 4,523 98 -
2018 (est) 4,594 100 3.9 4,594 100 1.6
2019 (fore) 4,755 104 3.5 4,617 101 0.5
2020 (fore) 4,934 107 3.8 4,655 101 0.8
2021 (fore) 5,110 111 3.6 4,684 102 0.6
2022 (fore) 5,288 115 3.5 4,707 102 0.5
2023 (fore) 5,470 119 3.4 4,730 103 0.5
Source: Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 29

Market Segmentation
Menswear continues to FIGURE 14: ESTIMATED CONSUMER SPENDING ON UNDERWEAR AND
outperform NIGHTWEAR, BY CATEGORY, 2018

As the chart below illustrates,


womenswear continues to dominate the
UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear
market – accounting for approximately
70% of total consumer spending in 2018,
with underwear the most significant
category. Mintel estimates that women’s
underwear alone now accounts for 48% of
the total market, whilst men’s underwear
accounts for just 17% of the market. The
rest of consumer spending is made up with
women’s nightwear and loungewear (22%)
and men’s nightwear and loungewear
(13%).

Although womenswear accounts for the


vast majority of consumer spending, its
dominance is softening as menswear’s
growth continues to be stronger year
on year. To put this into context, in 2013
menswear accounted for just 28.5% of
the market, but this figure has grown
1.3 percentage points to 29.8% in 2018.
This aligns with the wider market, with
menswear gradually taking a greater
share of consumer spending on clothing, Source: Mintel
which we discuss in more depth in
Mintel’s Clothing Retailing – UK, October Growth in the underwear, nightwear and a result, more consumers have been
2017 Report. Growth in menswear is loungewear market is also being fuelled investing in certain loungewear pieces
being driven by a number of factors, by strong growth in sales of nightwear that can be worn outside of the home.
including men taking greater interest in and loungewear. We estimate that sales This, teamed with an increasing number
their personal appearance, alongside of nightwear and loungewear rose 6.5% of people working from home and thus
retailers targeting male consumers more in 2017 compared to the 2.2% increase spending more time there, means that
proactively with strengthened menswear in sales of underwear, with similar rates consumers have a more vested interest in
product ranges. As a result, faced with of growth projected for 2018. This sub- looking good in their home attire.
more choice than ever before, men are category has benefited from the ongoing
more willing to invest in fashion items and casualisation of society, with consumers
the underwear and nightwear categories increasingly seeking comfortable clothing
have also benefited from these trends. for a variety of different occasions. As

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 30

FIGURE 15: BREAKDOWN OF ESTIMATED CONSUMER SPENDING ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR, BY


CATEGORY, 2013-18

2018
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
(est)
£m £m £m £m £m £m

Women’s underwear 1,994 2,035 2,073 2,115 2,159 2,209


Men’s underwear 703 718 735 756 775 796
Underwear total 2,697 2,753 2,808 2,871 2,934 3,005

Women’s nightwear and loungewear 772 799 840 904 961 1,015
Men’s nightwear and loungewear 397 413 448 491 525 574
Nightwear and loungewear total 1,169 1,212 1,288 1,395 1,486 1,589

Underwear, nightwear and loungewear total 3,866 3,965 4,096 4,266 4,420 4,594
Source: Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 31

Market Drivers
Changing dynamics in the UK FIGURE 16: TRENDS IN THE AGE STRUCTURE OF THE UK POPULATION,
population 2016-26

The UK is faced with an aging population,


with the number of over-55s expected 16,000
to rise 19% in the 10 years to 2026,
which will result in this demographic 14,000
accounting for approximately a third of the
total population by 2026. Meanwhile, in 12,000
contrast, the ONS also projects that the
number of 15-34s will decline 1.3% and 10,000
the number of 35-54s will fall 1.6%.
000 8,000
Our consumer research confirms that
there is a correlation between underwear, 6,000
nightwear and loungewear purchasing
and age, with the over-55s significantly 4,000
less likely to buy such products than their
younger counterparts. Not only are the 2,000
under-45s more likely to have bought
underwear, nightwear or loungewear in 0
0-14 15-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65+
the last year, either for themselves or
someone else, but they also tend to spend 2016 2021 (proj) 2026 (proj)
significantly more on average per year
than older consumers. This could well Source: Office for National Statistics/Mintel
have a negative impact on growth in the
UK underwear market. FIGURE 17: BREAKDOWN OF TRENDS IN THE AGE STRUCTURE OF THE UK
POPULATION, 2016-26
As the UK is faced with this ageing
population there is a need for underwear
brands and retailers alike to respond to Age 2016 2021 (proj) 2026 (proj)
changing demographic trends. It will be 000 % 000 % 000 %
important for retailers going forward to fully
understand what older men and women 0-14 11,677 17.8 12,149 18.0 12,077 17.4
want from their underwear, nightwear 15-24 8,033 12.2 7,734 11.4 8,120 11.7
and loungewear products. It will also be
25-34 8,919 13.6 9,022 13.3 8,611 12.4
important to understand what they want in
35-44 8,354 12.7 8,608 12.7 9,003 13.0
terms of communication from brands and
45-54 9,251 14.1 8,767 13.0 8,320 12.0
we expect to not only see older consumers
55-64 7,601 11.6 8,544 12.6 9,007 13.0
better represented in advertising
65+ 11,814 18.0 12,792 18.9 14,096 20.4
campaigns, but also the use of older
models when photographing products for
e-commerce sites. Total 65,648 100.0 67,616 100.0 69,235 100.0
Source: Office for National Statistics/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 32

The influence of births and FIGURE 18: TOTAL NUMBER OF BIRTHS AND MARRIAGES IN THE UK, 2012-16
marriages on some underwear
categories
900
813
779 776 777 775
There are a number of life events that can 800
influence a person’s underwear purchasing 700
habits. Two such events are births and 600
marriages, which can drive demand for
500
certain lingerie categories. An uplift in 000
marriages can boost sales of both bridal 400
303 290 288 287
277
underwear and underwear solutions, 300
with many brides and wedding guests 200
likely to need particular under garments 100
dependent on their outfit, from strapless
0
and backless bras to shapewear and 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016*
seamless underwear. Indeed, research for Births Marriages
Mintel’s Attitudes Towards Weddings – UK,
December 2016 Report found that British * marriages estimated as no data for England and Wales available at time of publication
wedding guests alone spend an average Source: Office for National Statistics/NRS/NISRA/Mintel
of £101 on an outfit, with underwear a cost
that will often be included in this figure. began to rise sharply following the EU As fashion retailers have come to the end
Meanwhile, births inevitably drive demand referendum vote in June 2016, driven in of their hedging policies, many have been
for nursing bras and other loungewear part by the devaluation of Sterling which forced to increase prices as the cost of
products due the inevitable changes to resulted in increased costs for many UK imported goods has risen. However, many
women’s bodies alongside the increased businesses. have been cautious about passing on
amount of time spent at home during such additional costs to their customers
maternity leave. Overall consumer price inflation reached and have avoided doing so in a variety of
a four-year high of 2.8% in September different ways. Whilst some retailers have
High inflation seen throughout 2017 and remained similarly high until increased efforts to reduce overall costs,
2017 early 2018. Meanwhile, as the chart below others have looked to offset higher price
illustrates, price increases in the garment points for some items with lower prices for
One of the defining features of the UK industry were even higher throughout core and basic products.
retail sector in 2017 was the uplift in much of 2017, peaking at 5.4% in August
inflation. Following on from a sustained 2017, though the latest data for March
period of low inflation, consumer prices 2018 show this has now fallen to 2.7%.

FIGURE 19: ANNUAL PERCENTAGE CHANGE IN CONSUMER PRICES, MARCH 2017-MARCH 2018

6.0

5.0

4.0

annual
% 3.0
change

2.0

1.0

0.0
Mar-17 Apr-17 May-17 Jun-17 Jul-17 Aug-17 Sep-17 Oct-17 Nov-17 Dec-17 Jan-18 Feb-18 Mar-18

CPIH (overall index) Garments

Source: Office for National Statistics/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 33

Real incomes under pressure, but result, real wages are growing again, with confidence tracker reveals that on the
growing again wage growth outstripping inflation in both whole people have remained relatively
January and February 2018. Though this positive about their personal finances. As
The high inflation seen throughout 2017 could help to offset the pressures on UK we discuss in Mintel’s Consumers and
outstripped wage growth for the majority consumer finances, it is likely that the full the Economic Outlook – UK, March 2018
of the year, resulting in a decline in effect of this will not be felt until later in Report, although incomes have been
real incomes and weakened consumer the year and will only be felt if this trend under pressure, consumer confidence has
spending power. When incomes are is sustained. This is particularly true as proven robust and people have remained
squeezed there is a tendency for inflation remains significantly higher than relatively positive about their finances. This
consumers to adopt more cautious the average CPIH rates witnessed in 2015 has fed through into spending intentions,
spending habits, which can often impact (0.4%) and 2016 (1.0%). particularly among younger generations
discretionary spending on fashion items which have shown a continued willingness
like underwear. Consumer confidence remains to spend. As a result, retail sales growth in
robust the UK has been sustained.
However, this trend has now reversed
and the latest ONS figures at the time of Whilst the overall outlook for UK
writing reveal that overall CPIH has fallen consumers has been relatively negative
marginally to 2.3% in March 2018. As a throughout 2017, Mintel’s consumer

FIGURE 20: REAL WAGE GROWTH – AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS VS INFLATION, JANUARY 2014-MARCH 2018

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0
annual
%
change
1.5

1.0

0.5

0.0
Oct
Oct

Oct

Oct
Nov
Dec

Nov
Dec
Nov
Dec

Nov
Dec

Mar

May

Mar

May

Mar
Apr
Mar

May

Mar

May

Apr
Apr

Apr

Jul
Aug
Sep

Jan

Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep

Jan
Jan

Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep

Jan

Jun

Jan

Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep

Feb

Feb
Feb

Feb

Feb

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018


AWE - regular pay CPIH

Source: Office for National Statistics/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 34

FIGURE 21: CONSUMER FINANCIAL CONFIDENCE, APRIL 2013-MAY 2018

3.2

3.1

3.1

3.0

3.0

weighted
average 2.9
of responses
2.9

2.8

2.8

2.7

2.7

State of finances Finances vs last year


Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Working-from-home culture FIGURE 22: WHERE PEOPLE WORK IN A TYPICAL WEEK, OCTOBER 2017
influencing the market
“In a typical week I work... Please select all that apply.”
As we discuss in Mintel’s The Working
Life – UK, January 2018 Report, the %
vast majority of people in employment
typically work outside of the home, with In an office 48
offices proving the most common working
location. However, the report also found From home 18
that one in five (18%) now work at home at
At a school/medical institution/other public
any point during a typical working week. 14
facility

Studies suggest that allowing employees Outside 13


to work from home carries a variety of
On the road (ie travelling) 9
benefits for employer and employees alike,
including improved morale, productivity In the hospitality sector 6
and retention rates. However, many
employers remain cautious when it comes Somewhere else 15
to introducing official flexible work location
polices, while in recent years a number of
blue-chip businesses have reduced the Base: 1,281 internet users aged 16+ who work full-time or part-time
number of employees allowed to work Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
remotely, including pioneer IBM. However,
as the workforce continues to struggle to As a result, we expect the number demand for such products, with people
balance work/life demands, the pressures of consumers working from home to becoming more aware of the nightwear
of family life and rising commutes, it is continue to rise in future. This is having a and loungewear they own due to spending
likely that businesses in the UK will come positive impact on the UK nightwear and more time in the home. As a result,
under increasing pressure to introduce loungewear sector. The growing number consumers are becoming more willing to
formal remote working initiatives. of people working from home is fuelling invest in nicer home attire.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 35

Health and fitness boom fuelling likely go hand in hand with increased obese. Meanwhile, the percentage of
demand for sports underwear spending on sportswear and in particular consumers that are overweight or obese
sports underwear. Indeed, research for peaks amongst the older demographics,
Mintel’s research for its Sports Mintel’s Sports Fashion – UK, December most notably the over-55s. Although young
Participation – UK, September 2017 2017 Report found that 15% of consumers people are less likely to be overweight, the
Report suggests that the sports market that purchased sportswear in the last year research shows that approximately a third
saw some recovery in 2017, following a bought some form of sports underwear. of 16-24s are classified as such – putting
sudden dip in participation rates between the significance of the issue into context.
2014 and 2016. The report found that High levels of obesity create a
the percentage of UK consumers that need for size inclusivity To address the ongoing battle with
have taken part in sports included in the obesity, a number of underwear brands
chart below returned to two thirds (66%) As the chart below demonstrates, the UK and retailers have been trying to be more
of the adult population. This recovery continues to struggle with high levels of size-inclusive. The latest example of this
was particularly strong among 25-34s, a obesity. Although there was a marginal is the singer Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty
demographic that not only reversed the dip in the proportion of overweight lingerie, which launched in May 2018 and
double-digit decline in participation rates, people in 2016, almost two thirds (61%) includes a variety of products that are
but also moved on towards levels more of the UK population are now classified available in a vast assortment of sizes (see
usually observed among the most active as overweight or obese. The decline in Launch Activity and Innovation). However,
16-24 age group. obesity seen in 2016 was driven by men, the extent of the obesity issue means
with a 1.9 percentage-point decrease. there remain opportunities for retailers to
The chart below shows an uplift across However, men remain significantly more embrace the plus-size underwear market.
the vast majority of activities, which will likely than women to be overweight or

FIGURE 23: SPORTS PARTICIPATION IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, JUNE 2014 AND JULY 2017

“Which of the following sports have you played/participated in during the last 12 months?”

31
29

20
19 19
18
17 17 17
%
15 15
14
12 12
11
10 10
9 9
7

Jun-14 Jul-17
Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 36

FIGURE 24: OVERWEIGHT AND OBESITY PREVALENCE, 2012-16

67.8
67.1
66.6
65.3 65.7

62.9
61.9 62.1 61.7 61.4

%
58.1 58.1
57.2 57.2 57.1

2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

All adults Men Women


Source: Health Survey for England 2016/Mintel

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COMPANIES
AND BRANDS

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 38

What You Need to Know


M&S continues to dominate significant uplift in digital advertising in the market and this has
given underserved consumers more of a voice, which in turn has
M&S is the market leader in the UK underwear, nightwear and placed pressure on brands to use models that better represent
loungewear market by some distance, driven by the retailer’s their customer. As a result, there has been much more diversity in
dominance in the women’s underwear market. We estimate that underwear advertising, which we expect to become the norm (see
M&S captures approximately 20% of consumer spending on Advertising and Marketing Activity).
underwear, nightwear and loungewear. However, M&S’s strength
in this category does appear to be softening as the retailer faces New brand and product launches disrupt the market
increased competition in the market (see Leading Players).
There have been a number of significant brand launches recently
Specialists struggle in a competitive market with potential to shape the UK underwear market. Since 2016,
new brand launches have included gender-fluid label Les
Mintel estimates that lingerie specialists hold around 11% of the Girls Les Boys, British-made lingerie brand Lucy May Lingerie
UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear market. The specialists and sustainable lingerie brands Lara Intimates and Woron.
remain relatively small as consumers continue to favour the Meanwhile notable product launches have included Knixwear’s
convenience of buying underwear products from the clothing teen underwear range and Organic Basics SilverTech 2.0 which
retailers and supermarkets. A number of the leading lingerie is an underwear collection designed to be washed less, making
specialists have struggled to grow, impacted by the shift towards garments more sustainable. However, the most prominent launch
more natural underwear shapes amongst UK women. As women was Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty lingerie range, which was unveiled
favour more understated lingerie styles like soft and non-wired in May 2018 (see Launch Activity and Innovation).
bras, this has made it easier than ever for the non-specialists
to compete and capture spending. Meanwhile, the shift towards Brands diversify with premium and activewear ranges
online underwear purchasing has also proven a challenge for
the specialists because it has made the market particularly price- A number of the major underwear brands have been looking to
competitive (see Leading Players). expand in the last year, with a particular focus on activewear. A
host of brands and retailers alike have entered and expanded
Sloggi and Triumph most trusted their position in the sports market, including Ann Summers
which launched an activewear range in January 2018, Shock
Brand research reveals that Triumph International-owned brands Absorber which added to its activewear offer in December 2017
Triumph and Sloggi garner the highest levels of trust amongst UK with a sports clothing range and Sloggi which is set to unveil an
consumers, with both brands strongly associated with offering athleisure range later in 2018. Meanwhile, Sloggi has also been
good value and consistent high quality. Victoria’s Secret and amongst the brands looking to reposition themselves through
Calvin Klein also scored highly across a number of key attributes, premium sub-labels (see Launch Activity and Innovation).
with these brands most likely to be seen as trend-setting, stylish
and worth paying more for. Meanwhile, Heidi Klum Intimates and Ongoing investment into online shopping experience
Curvy Kate suffer from more limited brand awareness (see Brand
Research). As a growing number of people are shopping online for
underwear, nightwear and loungewear, several retailers have
Body positivity gaining momentum been looking to strengthen their online proposition. Such
developments include Panache’s “Click, Fit & Collect” service, La
One of the defining trends in the UK fashion market in the last Perla’s “Try & Buy” initiative, Debenhams’ online booking service
year has been the shift towards greater inclusivity and this is for bra fittings and Figleaves’ virtual fitting and personal shopping
having a big impact on the underwear market. There has been a service (see Launch Activity and Innovation).

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 39

Leading Players
The UK underwear, nightwear and FIGURE 25: ESTIMATED SHARE OF UK UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
loungewear industry is particularly complex LOUNGEWEAR MARKET BY OUTLET TYPE, 2017
as there are a number of different ways
to break the market down. Own-label
continues to dominate, but brands are also
important. Meanwhile, the non-specialists Other
tend to hold the biggest share of the 4%
Online-only
market, but again specialists are also M&S
retailers
important. To give as much context to the 20%
10%
market as possible, we discuss channels
to market and the financial performance of
the specialist retailers and leading brands. Lingerie
However, due to the limited data available, specialists
we cannot provide sales data for the non- 11%
specialists, but we do include Mintel’s
space allocation data for a selection of the
leading non-specialists.
Department
stores
Channels to market Clothing
12%
retailers
M&S retains market leading 27%
position

Despite ongoing challenges in the Supermarkets


retailers’ wider non-food division, M&S 16%
continues to dominate the UK underwear,
nightwear and loungewear market, driven
by the retailer’s ongoing success in the Source: Mintel
lingerie market. We estimate that M&S
holds around 20% of the total market, sales have inevitably been impacted by the reported a 3% decline in comparable sales
significantly more than any other individual ongoing declines in clothing, alongside the in its 2017 fiscal year, negatively impacted
retailer. increased competition in the underwear by Victoria’s Secret exit from the swim
and nightwear market. Not only has M&S and apparel categories during the year.
M&S has continued to develop its women’s seen rising levels of competition from other However, the retailer is performing much
lingerie ranges to ensure its assortment major multiples like the supermarkets, better in the UK. The latest accounts filed
resonates with consumers, with its Rosie but it has also likely suffered from rising at Companies House reveal that Victoria’s
for Autograph collection a particularly social media usage, which has given many Secret’s UK arm saw sales increase
successful part of the retailer’s strategy. new and younger lingerie brands a bigger 24.3% to £132 million in 2016. We expect
In November 2017, M&S celebrated the platform. this strong growth trajectory to have been
fifth anniversary of its collaboration with sustained in 2017 as the retailer continues
model and actress Rosie Huntington- For more information see the Where They to expand its geographical coverage and
Whiteley, with the retailer reporting that Shop section of this report. reach new customers.
it has sold over 11 million Rosie for
Autograph products during the five years. Mixed trading results from the The retailer has been making significant
The retailer estimates that one in every specialists adjustments to its product assortment,
50 women in the UK own a bra from the axing swimwear and apparel whilst
range. The range, which was launched in Victoria’s Secret reports sales minimising the number of soft bralettes
2012 as a 33-piece lingerie collection, has uplift in 2018 within its range as it looks to play to its
now expanded to encompass sleepwear, strengths. This appears to be having a
activewear, swimwear and beauty. Victoria’s Secret continues to face criticism positive effect, with L Brands reporting
that its strategy is outdated as the retailer that comparable sales for the first quarter
However, M&S’s dominance does appear continues to underperform. Victoria’s ended May 2018 increased 3% year-on-
to be softening as the retailer’s underwear Secret’s parent company L Brands year.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 40

Boux Avenue impacted declining FIGURE 26: LEADING SPECIALIST UNDERWEAR RETAILERS’ TOTAL UK
footfall REVENUES, 2012-17

Boux Avenue has also continued to


perform well, with total UK sales up 11.2% 2017
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
in the year ended April 2017 to £49.4 (est)
million and like-for-like growth of 7% as £000 £000 £000 £000 £000 £000
online continues to outperform. However,
Boux Avenue has said that the outlook Victoria’s Secret UK 19,584 54,684 84,706 106,363 132,162 166,000
for the brand may be more challenging Ann Summers Ltd 114,914 101,212 104,818 101,543 109,011 115,000
as footfall on the high street continues to Lovehoney 23,671 28,316 43,435 56,608 72,806 89,000
fall. Boux Avenue witnessed a 2.8% fall
Bravissimo Ltd 44,673 46,464 54,059 49,092 50,242 54,000
in like-for-like sales in the six weeks to
Boux Avenue 18,162 26,973 36,538 44,387 49,409 51,000
24 December 2017, with sales reportedly
Calzedonia Group UK* 10,157 11,727 14,301 15,369 15,538 15,785
impacted significantly by weakened footfall
in shopping centres, alongside some Rigby & Peller Ltd 9,176 9,232 9,665 8,221 7,948 7,800
supply chain difficulties which have now Agent Provocateur 16,180 22,192 23,746 na na na
been rectified. * includes Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tezenis/2017 figure reported
Source: Companies/Mintel
Lovehoney sales boosted by
lingerie Also operating at the higher end of the Newcastle and Liverpool. Plus, the retailer
market, Agent Provocateur has similarly said it expected to open around 40 across
Erotic goods retailer Lovehoney has struggled. In February 2017, it was the UK in the year. However, to date no
continued on a strong growth trajectory, reported that the retailer was facing new stores have opened since reports in
with its latest accounts showing a 28.6% administration following a sustained period March 2017. The retailer is also rumoured
uplift in sales to £72.8 million in the of lacklustre performance. However, to be making a US entry, with its first store
year to March 2017. It is thought that the business was eventually bought by due to open in October 2018.
approximately a third of these sales are Four Holdings, a firm part-owned by
generated from sales of lingerie, therefore, Sports Direct founder Mike Ashley. Since Boux Avenue and Bravissimo eye
we estimate that Lovehoney’s lingerie the acquisition, Agent Provocateur has international expansion
revenues are in the region of £25 million. reportedly been adjusting its pricing
The retailer has continued to report that architecture by increasing the number of In 2017, it was revealed that Bravissimo
ongoing investments into strengthening entry-level ranges to broaden its customer was eyeing international growth via the
its lingerie ranges has boosted sales, with base. Meanwhile, it has reassessed its US. The retailer launched a transactional
the retailer attributing a large part of its promotional strategy, with more light- site in the country in May and then in July
success to its branded licensing deals. The hearted campaigns and store concepts. revealed its intention to begin opening
UK accounts for two thirds of Lovehoney’s Although such changes have reportedly stores in the US sometime in 2018, though
total revenues, equating to £48.6 million in had a positive impact on the business, no no locations or dates were confirmed.
the year to March 2017. sales figures have been disclosed by the
retailer since 2014. Alongside international expansion,
Premium retailers struggle to Bravissimo has also continued to invest
grow sales Newer specialists increase in its domestic store portfolio. The retailer
footprint opened a new store in London’s Westfield
Whilst the mid-market specialists largely White City shopping centre in March
continue to perform well, retailers at the Honey Birdette plans major UK 2018, opening alongside a raft of new
higher end of the UK lingerie market are rollout retailers including John Lewis as part of
struggling. In the year to December 2016, the centre’s new £600 million extension.
premium lingerie specialist Rigby & Peller Australian lingerie company Honey Meanwhile, Bravissimo has also been
reported a 3.3% decline in sales. After Birdette only launched in the UK in 2016. renovating some of its existing stores to
holding the status since 1960, the retailer Therefore, no sales figures have been improve the customer experience.
also lost its royal warrant in early 2018 disclosed to date. However, the retailer is
after June Kenton, who had a majority reportedly projecting rapid growth in the Although Boux Avenue’s UK footprint has
stake in the business for almost 30 years UK. At the time of writing, Honey Birdette remained consistent over the last few
and remains on the board, published an has three UK stores in London’s Covent years, the retailer has continued to expand
autobiography in March 2017 which gave Garden, Westfield White City and Leeds internationally. The business continues
details of her royal visits. There is a risk Victoria Gate. However, in early 2017 the to expand its overseas standalone store
that this may erode perception of the retailer implied it had 10 stores set to open network through a franchise model.
brand, which could further hinder sales in major shopping destinations during Meanwhile, in November 2017, it was
growth going forward. the year, including Westfield Stratford, announced that Boux Avenue had agreed

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new wholesale partnerships with Zalando FIGURE 27: LEADING SPECIALIST UNDERWEAR RETAILERS’ TOTAL UK
and Nordstrom as part of the retailer’s STORES, 2012-17
ongoing efforts to boost international
sales. This followed the retailer’s launch
on a number of other third party websites 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
in 2016, including ASOS, Very and
Littlewood. The retailer also revealed Victoria’s Secret UK 5 5 10 14 18 23
in November that it had opened its first Ann Summers Ltd 141 141 135 132 125 117
dedicated warehouse and distribution Bravissimo Ltd 21 22 25 25 25 29
facility in Crewe, which spans 70,000 sq ft
Boux Avenue 17 21 25 28 29 29
and has 150 staff members, as it looks to
Calzedonia Group UK* na na na na 17 16
sustain growth.
Rigby & Peller Ltd 8 9 9 9 9 9
Leading specialists’ sales per outlet Agent Provocateur Ltd 12 12 12 11 6 4
* includes Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tezenis/2017 figure reported
Although Victoria’s Secret continues to Source: Companies/Mintel
report substantial sales growth in the UK,
figures suggest that this growth is being FIGURE 28: LEADING SPECIALIST UNDERWEAR RETAILERS’ ESTIMATED UK
driven by new store openings, with sales SALES PER OUTLET, 2012-17
per outlet thought to be on a downward
trend since 2014. We also expect a similar
theme to have taken hold at Bravissimo 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
in 2017, as the retailer has rapidly been £000 £000 £000 £000 £000 £000
expanding its store portfolio during the
year, opening a net of four new stores in a Victoria’s Secret UK 3,917 10,937 11,294 8,864 8,260 8,098
challenging retail environment. Ann Summers Ltd 815 718 760 761 848 950
Bravissimo Ltd 2,127 2,161 2,300 1,964 2,010 2,000
In contrast, Ann Summers has continued
Boux Avenue 1,068 1,420 1,589 1,675 1,734 1,759
to see an uplift in like-for-likes since 2014.
Calzedonia Group UK* na na na na 914 957
Although the retailer has reduced its store
portfolio in recent years, total sales have Rigby & Peller Ltd 1,147 1,086 1,074 913 883 867
been on an upward trend. In the year Agent Provocateur Ltd 1,348 1,849 1,979 na na na
ending June 2017, revenues rose 7.4% * includes Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tezenis/2017 figure reported
to £109 million, with sales boosted by the Source: Companies/Mintel
retailer’s Party Plan business. This side
of the business reportedly saw a renewed rarely break out underwear revenues. As and reposition the two brands, Triumph
popularity following the ITV comedy-drama such, the best way to analyse this sub- International announced that it would close
series Brief Encounters, which aired in July section of the industry is to look at the all of its UK standalone stores, with plans
2016 and documented the beginning of the performance of the brands themselves, to relaunch its retail estate in higher footfall
Ann Summers brand by telling the story or the parent companies that tend to own locations. Meanwhile, both brands have
of four women who began selling lingerie several brands. It is important to note been eying a more premium positioning,
and sex toys to women in the privacy of that the figures below are reported by which we discuss in more depth in the
their own homes in the early 1980s. This the brands themselves or their parent Launch Activity and Innovation section.
resurgence in the Party Plan business has companies, and therefore include both
therefore helped to offset store closures, wholesale and retail revenues. Elsewhere, Panache UK and LF Intimates
though we expect the impact of the series have also reported declines in revenues
to soften in future as no further series of Triumph International, which owns Triumph and although Bendon has not disclosed
the programme are planned to help sustain and Sloggi, is the leading underwear group UK revenues since 2014, it is thought that
interest. in the UK. However, accounts filed at there may be a similar trend unfolding
Companies House reveal that the group’s there.
Leading brands also struggling to UK sales have been declining since
grow 2014. To offset the challenges it is facing, The declines witnessed by many of the
Triumph outlined a new global strategy leading underwear groups highlight how
As discussed at the beginning of this in 2017. It was revealed in August 2017 challenging the branded underwear
section, brands play a major part in the UK that the Triumph and Sloggi brands would market is at present, with high levels of
underwear industry. Branded underwear begin to operate as separate business discounting impacting growth. Rising
products are sold through a mixture of units, each with their own dedicated sales internet usage means it is easier than
specialists (online specialists, independent and marketing teams, to maximise growth ever for consumers to compare prices
boutiques etc) and non-specialists potential for both brands. As part of the across a variety of different retailers. As
(department stores etc), the latter of which group’s effort to implement a new strategy replacement purchasing plays a large

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FIGURE 29: LEADING UNDERWEAR BRANDS’ TOTAL UK REVENUES, 2012-17

2017
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
(est)
£000 £000 £000 £000 £000 £000

Triumph International Ltd (Triumph, Sloggi) 34,648 35,198 35,177 32,758 32,027 32,500
Wacoal UK (Wacoal, Freya, Fantasie, elomi, b.tempt’d,
29,830 22,478 31,486 31,486 31,864 32,000
Goddess, Leia)
Hanesbrands UK Ltd (Playtex, Wonderbra, Shockabsorber) 21,326 20,170 18,002 27,778* 19,674 20,000
Panache UK 13,966 12,152 11,054 11,568 10,920 10,500
LF Intimates (Charnos, Lepel) 5,098 4,704 4,990 5,353 4,957 4,800
Bendon UK (Heidi Klum Intimates, Stella McCartney Lingerie,
9,908 11,291 9,261 na na na
Pleasure State, Fayreform)
* 18-month trading period
Source: Companies/Mintel

part in the underwear market, this means This news was followed by the fitting service is being trialled. Debenhams
consumers have become exceptionally announcement in May 2018 that Chinese has reportedly put 180 staff from six stores
savvy when shopping for branded goods investment group Fosun Industrial through an intensive training course as
and will often shop wherever they can Holdings Limited had completed the part of efforts to introduce a new bra
find the lowest prices. Meanwhile, rising acquisition of a majority (51%) stake in fitting process in-store. In doing so the
social media usage has also given smaller Wolford. retailer is attempting to mirror the expertise
underwear brands a bigger voice and as a that many independent boutiques offer.
result consumers, particularly young ones, Non-specialists continue to invest Additionally, Debenhams has also been
are more likely to discover and experiment in underwear and nightwear renovating its underwear fitting rooms and
with new brands, which is also likely category trialling a service that enables customers
impacting on the more established players to book a bra-fitting service in advance.
in the market. As we outline at the beginning of this For more information on the Debenhams
section, non-specialists play an important Redesigned strategy, see Mintel’s
This also aligns with the news in April 2018 part in the UK underwear and nightwear Department Stores – UK, April 2018
that lingerie brand Ultimo was to cease market, with retailers like the supermarkets Report.
trading in the UK as it could no longer and department stores holding a
offset the challenges it faced in terms of significant share of consumer spending. Aligned with its wider strategy for the
increasing competition. Although none of the non-specialists give business as a whole, John Lewis has
any indication of underwear, nightwear continued to invest in its own-label lingerie
Mergers and acquisitions or loungewear sales, it is important to collections, such as its AND/OR brand
analyse the competitive strategies of these which includes a range of underwear
Alongside of the Agent Provocateur sale, retailers, particularly as many continue to products, to differentiate its offer against
which we discuss earlier, there have been strengthen their position in the market. the wider market. The retailer reporting
a number of other significant changes in in May 2017 that own-label lingerie sales
the UK and global underwear market. Department stores look to have grown 25% in the previous five years.
strengthen position John Lewis does not disclose underwear
Luxury lingerie brand La Perla was sold to revenues, but the retailer revealed some
Sapinda, a private investment company, in According to our consumer research for significant changes in lingerie trends in its
early 2018 for an undisclosed amount, with this Report, Debenhams is the most used 2017 annual Retail Report, reporting that
the deal said to be giving the business the department store retailer for underwear, sales of non-padded bras have risen 20%
resources to build a global luxury brand. nightwear and loungewear purchases after compared to the previous year whilst sales
M&S. Debenhams reported a decline in of push-up bras declined 44%.
In April 2018, it was revealed that LF UK sales in 2017 but is looking to reverse
Intimates, which owns Lapel and Charnos, its fortunes through its Debenhams Retailers look to grow revenues
had been sold to Robert Schneiderman Redesigned strategy, the implementation through expanded lingerie ranges
and Barry Knight. Schneiderman and of which has included investment into its
Knight also lead Retail Restructuring Ltd, a underwear proposition. As the retailer As the supermarkets have continued to
business specialising in turning around UK seeks to put experiences and digital at strengthen their place in the UK fashion
and European retail businesses. the heart of everything it does, a new bra market, underwear sales through this

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channel have also continued to grow. Not FIGURE 30: SPACE ALLOCATION ESTIMATES FOR MEN AND WOMEN’S
only do the major grocers Tesco, Asda UNDERWEAR/NIGHTWEAR AS A % OF TOTAL CLOTHING RETAIL SELLING
and Sainsbury’s all sell underwear, but the SPACE, OCTOBER 2017
discount grocers have also moved into
the lingerie category, selling underwear
products at peak trading periods like Women’s Men’s
Total underwear/
Christmas and Valentine’s Day. However, underwear/ underwear/
nightwear
it is Asda that has been expanding its nightwear nightwear
underwear ranges most significantly, % % %
with the retailer launching an affordable
underwear and nightwear collection for Primark 17.4 2.4 19.8
breast cancer patients in November 2017. M&S 13.3 2.9 16.2
Asda teamed up with Breast Cancer Care Sainsbury’s Superstore 12.4 2.8 15.2
to create the range for its in-house brand Tesco Extra 9.9 2.9 12.8
George. Designing the line with those Debenhams 10.2 2.0 12.2
receiving and recovering from surgery in Matalan 8.0 3.0 11.0
mind, nightwear products include tops
Asda Superstore 4.9 3.5 8.4
with open backs to allow access for tubes
H&M 7.3 0.3 7.6
during treatment, inner mesh support and
John Lewis 5.9 1.2 7.1
adjustable ties on waistbands for extra
New Look 6.0 0.1 6.1
comfort while scarring heals. Meanwhile,
the range also includes a post-surgery Next 4.3 1.4 5.7
bra featuring soft jersey pockets for a TK Maxx 3.7 1.9 5.6
prosthesis, with matching briefs available. Note: figures refer to in-store clothing and fashion accessories departments only. In specialists, this is often the
total floor selling space, whereas in non-specialist retailers, such as supermarkets, mixed goods retailers and
Elsewhere, Arcadia-owned fashion department stores, the category percentage space split refers to the total in-store clothing department or space
retailer Topshop has been experimenting dedicated to clothing and fashion accessories not total floor selling space
with its underwear ranges. In a bid to Source: Mintel
drive sales in the category, the retailer
has been looking towards more niche what is happening in the wider market. In category by a selection of the leading non-
lingerie categories. In April 2017, it was May 2018, it was revealed that Eberjey specialist players in the market. Although
revealed that Topshop was bolstering its had launched a new bridal range for M&S is the leading player by some
lingerie ranges with the additional of bridal Spring/Summer 2018. Meanwhile, a distance, it is value fashion retailer Primark
underwear to complement the retailer’s number of specialists have also been that dedicates the most in-store space to
affordable wedding and bridesmaid expanding their maternity ranges, including underwear and nightwear goods.
dresses. The range includes a variety of online retailer Figleaves, which unveiled
lace and satin lingerie products, including a new own-label nursing range in March For further details see Mintel’s Space
bras, suspender belts, bodies and pants, 2018. Allocation Summary of Clothing Retailing –
with prices ranging from £10 to £38. UK, October 2017 Report.
Alongside this launch, Topshop has also Non-specialists’ underwear and
been looking to strengthen its underwear nightwear space allocation
range via other means, including the
addition of branded underwear to its offer To give more context to the non-specialists
with the launch of Gossard on its website underwear and nightwear focus, we
in December 2017. include some of our space allocation data
from Mintel’s Clothing Retailing – UK,
Such moves by the non-specialist to October 2017 Report. This gives some
expand more niche product ranges mirror indication of the emphasis placed on the

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Launch Activity and Innovation


Triumph Group eyes more designed to suit the wearer’s needs Brands expand to be more
premium position depending on their levels of activity. inclusive

The Triumph and Sloggi brands (both of This news was followed by an The ongoing investment into range
which are owned by Triumph International) announcement later in August 2017 that expansion has also made underwear
are eyeing a more premium position in the sports underwear brand Shock Absorber brands and retailers more diverse and
underwear market. was planning to expand its range by inclusive. In the last year, there have been
moving into clothing. The activewear a number of underwear brands that have
In 2017, both brands launched premium range which launched in December 2017 expanded their ranges to accommodate a
sub-labels as they looked to extend pricing includes a small selection of tank tops, wider audience, with Nubian Skin a core
architecture, attract new customers and leggings and capri pants designed to example of how brands are becoming
encourage existing customers to trade coordinate with the brand’s range of sports more and more inclusive. In September
up purchases. In April 2017, Triumph bras in a limited number of colourways and 2017, it was revealed that the brand was
unveiled that it was launching Florale, a prints, with prices ranging from £30 to £45. expanding the range of styles it offers,
new collection that is designed to retain adding a bandeau bra top, slip, bodysuit,
Triumph’s classic style and trusted fits, but More recently in January 2018, specialist G-string, camisole and high-waist briefs in
is made using more luxurious fabrics and lingerie retailer Ann Summers also sizes XS to XXL to its range of products.
embroideries in a bid to appeal to a mature launched a new activewear range as it This was followed by an announcement
lingerie customer. Retail prices for Florale looked to tap into the buoyant sportswear in February 2018 that the brand was
bras range from £52 to £70 and from £28 market. The range included leggings, tops, expanding the range of sizes it offers with
to £40 for briefs. Later in the year, Julianne cover-ups and tracksuits – all designed to bras now available up to a UK size 40G.
Moore was cast as the face of the new put a playful spin on typical workout attire,
collection to boost awareness of the new with key design features such as wet look Nubian Skin’s ongoing range expansion
premium collection. materials, bold prints, fishnet inserts, and is likely to also be helping the retailer
trend-led slogans. offset growing competition in the “nude
Sloggi then announced its plans to release underwear” market, with a number of
a premium sub-label named S by Sloggi In a similar move, French lingerie brand brands launching more extensive ranges
in July 2017, with products going on sale Maison Lejaby also launched a sports- of nude underwear. To exemplify how this
for the SS18 season. The brand’s S by luxe collection in late 2017 as it looked to trend is becoming more mainstream, in
Sloggi homepage states that the new label tap into the ongoing demand for sportier April 2018, ASOS began selling Dorina
has been created to redefine premium underwear styles. Tone underwear, which comes in multiple
bodywear – championing “understated, yet shades of nude to match various different
beautifully sophisticated styles that never The decision to move into sportswear by skin tones. Then in May 218, Rihanna
compromise on unrivalled comfort”. The a number of key players in the underwear launched Savage x Fenty which features
range is designed to combine innovation, industry taps into Mintel Trend Extend My an expansive range of nude lingerie,
comfort, functionality and style, with prices Brand. The Trend explores how brands whilst also catering to a broad range
range from £16 to £36. are expanding into new categories and of size requirements. In addition, there
demographics to find new business as have been a number of similar examples
When underwear and activewear well as to intrigue consumers. Moving internationally, including US retailers Aerie
collide into a category like sportswear enables and Target which both now offer inclusive
underwear brands to leverage the high nude underwear products.
Aligned with high-levels of consumer levels of trust their customers often
interest in health and fitness, the place in them. Meanwhile, it can also Meanwhile, London-based lingerie brand
sportswear market continues to grow help brands to ensure their product Playful Promises has made efforts to be
and a number of major underwear assortment remains fresh and interesting. more inclusive by extending its size range
brands are looking to capitalise on this As continuity ranges continue to dominate from a UK G cup to UK H cup. The news
trend. In August 2017, underwear brand the underwear landscape, it is an ongoing which was announced in November 2017
Sloggi announced plans to launch a new challenge for retailers to ensure they followed the successful launch of a Playful
athleisure range in Autumn/Winter 2018 update their ranges with new products Promises Curve collection back in May
as it looks to target more active, younger whilst still offering core products. Indeed, 2016.
consumers. The Sloggi Move range will one in six (15%) would like to see more
reportedly comprise three core segments frequently updated underwear ranges, as
– Relax, Balance and Move – with each we discuss in Improvement Desired When
Shopping for Underwear.

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FIGURE 31: NUBIAN SKIN NAKED COLLECTION, 2018

Source: Nubian Skin/Joey Rosado @islandboiphotography/Mintel

Body positive campaigns gain Rashida Jones. This was followed shortly prospects. As such, efforts to be more
momentum after in May 2017 with Playful Promises inclusive in underwear advertising are
ageless beauty campaign, which featured likely to resonate, but more still needs
This move to be more inclusive has two models in their 60s to promote the to be done (particularly in the menswear
also impacted communication. This is underwear brand’s new collection. market) to include more diversity in
a theme that has been building in the underwear advertising.
lingerie industry for some time, but the Non-specialists have also awakened to
last year has seen the body-positive the trend, with ASOS and Missguided New brand launches – Les Girls Les
movement become more mainstream and both praised in 2017 for not retouching Boys and Savage x Fenty
widely accepted amongst retailers and website imagery. In July, ASOS caught
consumers alike. We discussed the trend the UK’s press attention because it In the last year there have been a couple
in our last Report (Underwear – UK, June featured a model on its website with visible of particularly high-profile brand launches.
2016), but since then a wave of brands stretch marks and acne scars. Then in In May 2017, it was announced that
have been addressing a lack of diversity in December 2017, Missguided was similarly Agent Provocateur co-founder Serena
lingerie advertising. praised for its #MakeYourMark campaign, Rees was set to launch a new underwear
which celebrated the diversity of young label later in the year, and the Les Girls
In September 2017, online underwear women, and its commitment to eliminate Les Boys brand was officially unveiled
specialist Figleaves celebrated unnecessary retouching its campaigns and in September 2017. The new label is
different body types with its product imagery. We discuss the campaign designed to be gender-fluid and a fusion
#AShapeForEveryShape campaign. The in more depth in our Analyst Insight of underwear, nightwear and streetwear.
campaign, which was to promote the Missguided puts inclusivity at the heart of The product assortment comprises bras,
retailer’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collections, its brand – 21 December 2017. briefs, bodysuits, rib jerseys, t-shirts,
saw Figleaves interview three models of vests, pyjamas, boxer shorts, hoodies and
different shapes and sizes about what Mintel highlighted the need for more body joggers, available in sizes XS to XL, with
makes them feel confident. positivity in youth fashion advertising in retail prices ranging from £20 to £120.
Teenaiders, which was featured in our
The use of more mature models has also European Consumer Trends 2018 Report. This was followed in May 2018 with
become more mainstream in the last The trend identifies how young people are Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty launch.
year. In April 2017, 73-year-old Lauren increasingly defined by anxieties around Ahead of the unveiling we discussed the
Hutton starred in a Calvin Klein underwear image, health and work, and are looking possibilities of the brand in our Analyst
advert alongside a host of other celebrities for brands to alleviate the pressure and Insight Is Rihanna about to disrupt the
such as Kirsten Dunst, Laura Harrier and help them build both their confidence and lingerie market? – 24 April 2018. However,

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since that was written the first collection FIGURE 32: THE PANTRY UNDERWEAR ISLINGTON LONDON, 2018
has been officially launched, with much
acclaim and confirming many of our
suspicions. The new brand has been
praised for its body-positive approach,
offering products in wide range of sizes,
alongside nude underwear in a wide
range of tones. Bras are available in UK
sizes 32A to 44DD, with other lingerie,
underwear and loungewear products
coming in sizes XS to 3XL. The range
is also designed to be affordable and
accessible to as many consumers as
possible, with prices starting at £10.60
and shipping available to 210 countries
worldwide. There is also a membership
scheme available for £36.80, giving
consumers access to free shipping, early
access to new products and limited-edition
items for a year and the brand launched a
pop-up in London in June 2018 to give it
more exposure.

Prior to this a number of brands with


a sustainable focus launched in 2016,
including Copenhagen-based Woron and Source: The Pantry Underwear/Mintel
Lara Intimates. Woron currently has over
40 stockists across Europe, including three sisters’ infamous personal style, the pieces capsule collection for the brand, which
sustainability-focused retailers in the UK. were designed in partnership with lingerie was unveiled in its annual catwalk show
Lara Intimates is a UK-based business brand Fleur du Mal founder and creative and went on sale in early December 2017.
that uses industry off-cuts to produce its director Jennifer Zuccarini. The collection Meanwhile, high-end erotic retailer Coco
lingerie garments, currently only operating featured a plunge and balconette bras, de Mer revealed in January 2018 that it
online. bralettes, loungewear shorts, a range of has collaborated with the V&A Museum
knicker styles and bodies, with products for its own-label Autumn/Winter 2018 and
Collaborations generate brand available in a variety of different lace, Spring/Summer 2019 lingerie collections.
hype velvet, satin and jersey materials. Prices
ranged from £16 to £85. Independent rejects discounting in
Collaborations have become favour of charitable giving
commonplace in the fashion industry, with Another prominent collaboration recently
many brands and retailers utilising the is Calvin Klein’s ongoing partnership with London-based independent underwear
power that celebrities and other brands The Andy Warhol Foundation. In one boutique The Pantry Underwear continues
can have in terms of driving sales. The of Raf Simons’ first campaigns for the to grab headlines for its innovative
underwear industry is no exception, with brand, models were photographed in their approach to lingerie retailing. Amongst its
hugely successful examples over the underwear looking at work by a number accolades, the retailer, which only opened
years including David Beckham’s H&M of iconic American artists, including Andy in 2016, took charge of the relaunch of
partnership and the ongoing collaboration Warhol. This was followed by the designer department store Liberty’s lingerie and
between Rosie Huntington-Whitely and incorporating Warhol photography into a swimwear department in 2017 and The
M&S, the latter discussed in more depth ready-to-wear collection which was shown Pantry Underwear’s frequent in-store
in the Competitive Strategies section. at New York Fashion Week in September customer events have garnered a loyal
Meanwhile, brands like Happy Socks 2017. Cementing the collaboration further, following. However, its most recent press
continue to generate brand hype with Raf Simons has now created a capsule attention was because the retailer actively
frequent high-profile collaborations. Off underwear collection for Calvin Klein, decided to shun discounting during the
the back of such success stories, there incorporating printed stills from Andy important Christmas retail period. Instead
continues to be much collaboration in the Warhol’s 1963 experimental film Kiss onto of taking part in January sales promotional
underwear market to fuel interest in the classic Calvin Klein underwear pieces. activity post-Christmas, The Pantry
category. Underwear donated 10% of all sales from
Major international lingerie brand Victoria’s the brand’s Islington store and concession
In October 2017, Topshop launched a Secret also recognised the power behind at Liberty to the Women’s Therapy Centre
new range of lingerie in partnership with a designer name, tapping Balmain creative on Holloway Road, North London.
Kendall and Kylie Jenner. Inspired by the director Oliver Rousteing to create a

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 47

Underwear pop-ups give new FIGURE 33: BEIJA LONDON COVENT GARDEN POP-UP, 2017
brands the spotlight

As Mintel Trend Popscape discusses,


to pique consumer interest brands are
experimenting with temporary retail
spaces in unexpected places. Pop-up
stores are emerging in spaces that are
vacant or under-utilised and brands
that have traditionally not stepped into
retail now have an outlet to extend into.
These flexible retail spaces are providing
brands with a testing ground for new
retail concepts before fully investing in
permanent physical stores.

In 2017, there were a number of lingerie


brands that tapped into this trend.
Emerging lingerie and nightwear brand
Bluebella hosted a pop-up store in Box
Park Shoreditch, London in February Source: Beija London/Mintel
2017. Meanwhile, British lingerie brand
Beija London opened a pop-up store in its Aubade Valentine’s pop-up a recent
London’s Covent Garden to present its full example.
range of underwear styles. The success
of which has resulted in the brand recently Encouraging shoppers to try- and experiment with new product styles.
announcing that its first permanent store before-they-buy The La Perla website in the UK, US and
will open at the new Coal Drops Yard Europe now has an option for shoppers to
development in King’s Cross in October British lingerie brand Panache has “Try & Buy”, and if selected, no charges
2018. been on a mission over the last year will be made to the customer’s card until
to get women in the right bra size. The they decide to keep a product, or until after
The Bluebella and Beija London pop-ups specialist D+ brand launched its “Find a 48-hour session has expired.
were then followed in September 2017, Your Fit” campaign in July 2017, which
with high-end lingerie and beachwear included a new online bra fitting guide Elsewhere, department store retailer
brand Kriss Soonik transforming a space and documentary-style fitting advice Debenhams is also encouraging women to
in Shoreditch London into a “garden video to give advice to women online. get fitted for a bra by enabling shoppers to
party of naughty delights” for just one Meanwhile, Panache-accredited retailers pre-book a bra fitting appointment online.
week to promote its latest collection. were encouraged to host events to We discuss the department store retailer’s
After which Mimi Holliday’s launched its persuade women to get fitted for a bra. efforts to drive underwear sales in more
first ever standalone store, with a pop-up The initiative was then taken further when depth in the Competitive Strategies section
that opened in London’s Primrose Hill in in November 2017 it was announced of this report. Meanwhile, lingerie brand
December 2017 to capitalise on the peak that Panache was launching its “Click, Lara Intimates, which we discussed earlier
Christmas trading period. The pop-up Fit and Collect” service. The new under the new brand launches heading,
not only gave customers access to the service, which is designed to champion invited its customers inside its London
brand’s latest collection, but also enabled independent retailers, enables Panache studio in November 2017 to give them
shoppers to browse and buy archive customers to order direct from its website an opportunity to try products on before
pieces which are not available to buy and collect their reservations from their purchase.
anywhere else. Then in June 208, luxury nearest Panache stockist. This allows
sleepwear brand Desmond & Dempsey the shoppers to try on the product ahead Premium retailer launches
hosted a two week pop-up in London’s of purchase, and the brand hopes it will bespoke fitting service
Covent Garden. encourage women to get fitted properly
with an expert. To further combat the issues the women
The above examples help illustrate how face find the right fitting underwear,
the Popscape Trend is helping smaller Luxury lingerie label La Perla also lingerie retailer Sebastian & Millicent
and more niche fashion and underwear launched a similar try-before-you- announced the launch of its couture
brands to have a physical retail presence. buy service in November 2017, giving bespoke lingerie service in April 2018.
Meanwhile, another iteration of the Trend shoppers the option to have an at-home- The retailer has partnered with designer
in action is Harrods’ continued use of fitting without any form of upfront payment. Katherine Hamilton to offer customers
pop-up concessions to drive underwear The initiative is designed to make it easier the chance to customise bra colours and
sales during peak trading periods, with for consumers to try on different sizes fabrics, but beyond that Sebastian &

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Millicent also offer a bespoke alteration announced that it was introducing a specialist Yodel to give shoppers an
service to ensure any lingerie purchased new virtual fitting and personal shopping extended range of delivery options,
fits perfectly. service. Figleaves’ Live Fit enables including next day delivery and pre-midday
customers to get fitting advice via a one-to- delivery, alongside an extended order
Ongoing investment into online one video chat with experienced advisers. deadline which allows customers to order
Shoppers have the option of either an later in the evening and still receive their
As a growing number of people choose instant session or booking an appointment purchases the next day. This is likely to
to shop for underwear online, retailers – the latter allowing the adviser to research resonate with online fashion shoppers,
continue to invest heavily in their online a customer’s query and bring potential as Mintel’s Fashion Online – UK, June
proposition. Indeed, Mintel’s research solutions to the meeting. Furthermore, 2017 Report found that 76% of consumers
for this report found that more than a Figleaves advisers can arrange for would like to see delivery options improved
third (34%) of consumers now shop for recommended products to be sent to the when shopping online for fashion.
underwear, nightwear or loungewear customer and follow-up sessions can be
products online and this is fuelling arranged to ensure the customer is happy Another brand looking to fuel growth online
innovation in the online underwear market. with any products they are sent. is Hunkemöller, which launched a click &
buy initiative for its fashion show in March
Figleaves has been a pioneer of online Reiterating Figleaves’ commitment to 2018 enabling customers viewing the show
lingerie shopping and has continued improved online services, the retailer on social media to add the products to a
to strengthen its retail experience for also announced in February 2018 that it wish list and purchase their favourite items
customers. In October 2017, the retailer was strengthening its ties with delivery after the show.

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Advertising and Marketing


Activity
Underwear and nightwear FIGURE 34: TOTAL ABOVE-THE LINE, ONLINE DISPLAY AND DIRECT MAIL
advertising expenditure falling ADVERTISING EXPENDITURE ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR, 2013-17

The chart below shows total annual


advertising expenditure on underwear 8.2
and nightwear in the UK over the last 7.5
five years and highlights a significant 7.0
decline in spending during the last two 6.2
years, following a peak in 2015. In 2016, 5.5
advertising expenditure fell 23.8%,
followed by a further decline of 11.1% in £m
2017. It is worth noting that some of this
decline may be driven by the ongoing shift
towards digital communication methods,
much of which Nielsen does not include in
its data as it continues to exclude spending
on social media advertising.

Triumph ramps up expenditure 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

In 2017, Triumph International overtook Source: Nielsen Ad Intel/Mintel


M&S to become the highest spending
company in terms of on underwear and expenditure. During 2017, the retailer’s an age group. This shift in advertising
nightwear advertising in the UK. This marketing strategy underwent a significant strategy likely played a significant part in
increase in expenditure aligns with the transformation, unveiling a new campaign the retailer’s reduced advertising spend
group’s new global strategy, which the which united the retailer’s food and on certain product categories, such as
company announced in mid-2017. The clothing divisions under a single tagline underwear, as it looked to promote a
transformation programme, which we and philosophy for the first time in its message as opposed to specific products.
discuss in more depth in the Competitive history. The new “Spend It Well” tagline
Strategies section, was conceived to which was unveiled in May 2017 was Elsewhere, Tesco, Intimissimi, Calvin
capitalise on the full growth potential of designed to promote M&S as a retailer Klein, Bravissimo and Victoria’s Secret
each of Triumph International’s brands that offers value for money by focusing were amongst those that significantly
by operating them as separate business on quality experiences. Ahead of the increased expenditure on advertising
units, with their own dedicated sales and campaign, M&S spoke about its intention underwear and nightwear. Meanwhile,
marketing teams. Therefore, a significant to promote a shared attitude that connects Wacoal, Debenhams and Asda all reduced
increase in expenditure was perhaps with consumers regardless of age or advertising spend on the category, but
inevitable. demographic. The adverts sold an attitude again it is worth noting that this may
rather than targeting a specific age group, be due in part to increased promotion
In contrast, UK underwear market leader as the retailer looked to offset criticism that on social media as opposed to other
M&S significantly reduced advertising it continues to market itself at too young marketing channels.

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Digital now accounts for almost a FIGURE 35: TOTAL ABOVE-THE LINE, ONLINE DISPLAY AND DIRECT MAIL
third of adspend ADVERTISING EXPENDITURE ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR, BY
LEADING ADVERTISERS, 2013-17
The growing significance of digital
advertising in the underwear market is
confirmed in the chart below, with digital 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
methods of communication accounting for £000 £000 £000 £000 £000
just under a third (31%) of all advertising
spend on underwear and nightwear in Triumph International 725 902 1,443 437 1,504
2017. This shift towards digital is ongoing, Marks & Spencer 803 1,704 2,555 1,860 677
despite the challenges many underwear JML Direct 1,692 644 62 - 543
brands face in navigating advertising Intimissimi 317 385 449 215 454
policies and restrictions, which all of the Asda Stores 226 65 72 1,109 445
major social media platforms have in Calvin Klein 409 83 95 35 429
place. Boux Avenue 320 386 408 228 267
Fashion Forms 21 26 - - 177
Indeed, in September 2017 Facebook
Freemans Grattan Holdings - - - 118 176
banned an advert by Australian underwear
Tesco 781 110 - 2 171
Berlei which showcased the uncomfortable
House of Fraser 123 - 8 - 73
and painful methods women endure to
Bravissimo Lingerie - 5 165 2 53
support their breasts to promote its latest
Under Armour - - - 18 51
bra was banned from Facebook and
Wacoal 516 371 229 196 51
Instagram over concerns the ad could
Debenhams - 34 423 663 50
cause offence, despite it being widely
Victoria’s Secret - 175 241 13 42
praised by YouTube and Twitter users.
JD Williams 150 249 141 31 39
Solendro - - - - 35
That said, underwear brands also face
similar challenges advertising via other Agent Provocateur 12 37 28 19 30
channels. An example of such challenges Maison Lejaby 1 - 1 - 21
is the advertising guidelines that Transport Others 1,417 1,832 1,851 1,280 250
for London (TfL) put into action in
2016, with London Mayor Sadiq Khan Total 7,512 7,008 8,171 6,226 5,538
announcing in June 2016 that as of 1 July Source: Nielsen Ad Intel/Mintel
2016, adverts that promoted an unrealistic
or unhealthy body shape, or were likely FIGURE 36: TOTAL ABOVE-THE LINE, ONLINE DISPLAY AND DIRECT MAIL
to cause body confidence issues, would ADVERTISING EXPENDITURE ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR, BY
be banned from appearing on London’s MEDIA TYPE, 2017
public transport network. The ban formed
part of TfL’s updated advertising policy,
which gives it an even broader discretion
Radio
to accept or reject advertising.
5%
Outdoor
Such restrictions, alongside growing 7%
awareness amongst consumers of the
Digital
social impact that advertising can have, 31%
means that underwear brands often have
to be increasingly careful with wording
and imagery used within advertising
campaigns. This has shaped the
underwear marketing industry and resulted Press
27%
in more inclusive advertising strategies
amongst many of the key players in the
underwear market. We discuss this trend
in more depth in the Launch Activity and
Innovation section.

TV
30%

Source: Nielsen Ad Intel/Mintel

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Key campaigns FIGURE 37: CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR CAMPAIGN, 2018

Campaigns

Triumph’s digital focus

Alongside Triumph’s move to separate its


brands, the group unveiled plans in July
2017 to shift its marketing focus towards
digital as it looks to target a younger
audience. The brand said the move
was designed to better engage younger
shoppers, who are spending more and
more time online, despite a continuing
preference to buy underwear in-store.
It is also part of the brand’s recognition
that online is an increasingly important
research tool for many consumers.

Ahead of the announcement Triumph


reportedly ran a test campaign early in
2017, using geo-targeting to send mobile
ads to people who had visited or were in
close proximity of a Triumph store. The
brand said the test campaign boosted in- Source: Calvin Klein/© 2018 Willy Vanderperre/Mintel
store revenue by 27%, reaffirming the use
of digital channels to entice its younger presenter Maya Jama, the eight-part series Creative Officer – a role which gives him
customers to purchase. Furthermore, the featured inspirational women covering a complete creative control over everything
campaign also drove a 40% increase in variety of different topics, from boobs and at Calvin Klein, including its campaigns,
traffic to Triumph’s e-commerce store, break-ups to friendships and careers. Each and since his appointment the brand
helping to further boost the retailer’s rapid episode in the series also featured one of has released a number of high-profile
online growth. Freya’s best-selling product ranges. campaigns, all of which utilised the power
of celebrity. Simons’ first campaign for the
Following the success of the campaign, Discussing the campaign, Laura Simon, brand was a nod to its American heritage,
Triumph said it will continue to look at Wacoal’s chief marketing officer for with models scantily clad in classic Calvin
ways in which it can reach its younger Europe, said the decision to produce Klein denim and underwear products. This
audiences online, whilst still finding ways original marketing content which has the was followed later in February 2017 with
to drive such shoppers in-store. power to weave its way into women’s a men’s underwear campaign starring
everyday lives was a no brainer for the the cast of Oscar-winning film Moonlight.
Figleaves launches personalised Freya brand given its target demographic After that, the brand released its women’s
marketing of 25 to 34-year-olds, who account for Spring/Summer 2017 underwear campaign
around 40% of the UK’s podcast audience which starred an eclectic and diverse
In July 2017, online lingerie specialist according to the brand. This aligns with mix of iconic women, including 73-year-
Figleaves revealed plans to up the ante Mintel’s own research for its Music and old Lauren Hutton. Then the brands’
on customer-centric email marketing. The Other Audio – CDs, Streaming, Downloads underwear was featured in The XX’s music
partnership with Adestra enables Figleaves & Podcasts – UK, April 2018 Report which video for I Dare You, which was released
to send emails based on historic and future found that 18% of 25-34s have streamed in July 2017 and more recently in January
purchasing behaviour, helping the retailer a podcast in the last three months and a 2018, a major underwear campaign was
to ensure that its communications are further 15% have downloaded a podcast in unveiled starring the infamous Kardashian
relevant through personalised content. the same period. and Jenner sisters.

Freya experiments with podcast series Calvin Klein celebrity-centric For more information on the early changes
campaigns implemented by Raf Simons at Calvin
Triumph isn’t the only brand experimenting Klein and how it impacted the underwear
with more digital marketing. In September Calvin Klein continues to be one of the side of the business, see our Analyst
2017, Freya, which is owned by Wacoal, most high-profile underwear advertisers Insight Calvin Klein launches made to
launched a podcast series titled When in the world thanks to its ongoing use of measure service – 27 January 2017.
Life Gives You Melons as it looked to celebrities in its campaigns. In early 2017,
attract a younger consumer. Hosted by TV Raf Simons assumed the role of Chief

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Nielsen Ad Intel coverage outdoor, radio, cinema, direct mail and but estimates it by monitoring usage
door drops. Spend on social media and applying average measures of
Nielsen Ad Intel (NAI) tracks advertising advertising is not currently measured by expenditure.
via the following channels: television, NAI. For most channels covered, NAI
radio, press, digital online advertising, does not measure expenditure directly,

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Brand Research
This section looks at selected key brands Respondents were asked about their whole rather than in the context of specific
operating in the UK underwear market. perceptions and usage of the brands as a products or categories.

Brand map

FIGURE 38: ATTITUDES TOWARDS AND USAGE OF SELECTED BRANDS, APRIL 2018

Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
Bubble size represents usage (% ever used)
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Key brand metrics

FIGURE 39: KEY METRICS FOR SELECTED BRANDS, APRIL 2018

* Base: 1,007 female internet users aged 16+


** Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
*** Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have ever used the brand
Note: sample sizes too low to report excellent experience and recommendation for Heidi Klum Intimates and Curvy Kate
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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Brand attitudes: Curvy Kate lacks brand awareness

FIGURE 40: ATTITUDES, BY BRAND, APRIL 2018

Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
This chart shows the level of association of each brand surveyed with a set of key performance attributes core to underwear brands overall. The more significant an attribute
is as part of a brand’s image relative to other attributes, the nearer it will be to that attribute. If a brand is between a number of attributes, it is reasonably closely associated
with each of these.
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Brand personality: Sloggi considered accessible

FIGURE 41: BRAND PERSONALITY – MACRO IMAGE, APRIL 2018

Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
this chart shows all brands in relation to a set of broad image attributes applicable to all categories
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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Triumph seen as classic

FIGURE 42: BRAND PERSONALITY – MICRO IMAGE, APRIL 2018

Base: female internet users aged 16+ who have heard of the brand
This chart complements the wider brand image display, using a set of image traits specific to the fashion sector
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Brand analysis FIGURE 43: USER PROFILE OF VICTORIA’S SECRET, APRIL 2018

Victoria’s Secret is trend-setting

Victoria’s Secret is arguably one of the


most well-known underwear brands in
the world and our research confirms this
theory. Despite continuing to only have a
limited geographical coverage in the UK,
83% of women in the UK are aware of the
Victoria’s Secret brand. Despite lots of
negative press attention in recent years,
our brand research implies that the retailer
has retained its popularity and continues
to garner an image of being exciting and
trend-setting. The retailer’s high profile
annual shows inevitably play a part in its
awareness, with the hype around them Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
hard to miss in the mainstream media.
It has been highly criticised for its non- Key demographic groups – Victoria’s likely to have had a positive experience
inclusive approach to casting for such Secret continues to garner the highest when using the brand and are most likely
shows and, as a result, it lacks authenticity levels of appreciation amongst the 16- to recommend the brand to someone they
and is not widely recognised as 24s. Some 37% of 16-24s that have know. Overall, the 16-24s regard the brand
accessible. However, overall the brand’s heard of the brand are committed to it. exceptionally highly, but its appeal is lost
customers continue to view Victoria’s Not only does usage peak amongst young on most consumer groups.
Secret in a positive light. consumers, but these are also the mostly

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Triumph lacks differentiation FIGURE 44: USER PROFILE OF TRIUMPH, APRIL 2018

Though Triumph’s brand awareness falls


behind that of brands like Victoria’s Secret
and Calvin Klein, more than two thirds of
(68%) British women have heard of the
brand. Across all of the brands included
in the survey, Triumph benefits from
the highest levels of trust, and is also
associated with providing high quality
whilst remaining accessible. This places
the brand in a strong position in the UK
underwear sector, which is mirrored in the
fact that 80% of consumers that have ever
used the brand would rate their satisfaction
of Triumph as good or excellent. However,
its classic styles like the brand’s iconic
Amourette bra play a large part in its
success and, as a result, Triumph scores
behind other players in terms of being Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
trend-setting or cutting-edge, whilst also
lacking differentiation against other brands FIGURE 45: USER PROFILE OF CALVIN KLEIN, APRIL 2018
included in the research.

Key demographic groups – Although


Triumph garners high levels of brand
satisfaction amongst those that have
used it, for many consumers it lacks
differentiation against other underwear
brands. As a result, the brand lacks an
easily definable customer base other than
that it tends to attract over-45s. Such
consumers are the most likely to consider
the brand a classic and also place the
highest levels of trust in it.

Calvin Klein popular with affluent


Millennials

Calvin Klein has become a core brand in


many retailers’ underwear assortment in
recent years. It is the most-used brand
across all of those included in the survey, Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
with more than a third (34%) of those that
have used it in the last year stating that ever used the brand would recommend much like Victoria’s Secret’s customer
they use it often. Not only is the brand it. It is also the brand in the survey that base. The 16-34s are the most committed
well-known for its high-profile advertising consumers would be most willing to pay to the brand. Meanwhile, they are also
campaigns, but it also garners high levels more for and despite its more premium most likely to associate Calvin Klein with
of consumer trust and is known for its positioning in the fashion market is still being trustworthy and good value, whilst
underwear line, which combines style with considered relatively accessible. still thinking of the brand as stylish and
comfort and fit. As a result, 50% of those trend-setting. The brand also benefits
that have heard of Calvin Klein think of it Key demographic groups – Despite vastly from high levels of commitment amongst
as a brand that offers consistent quality, different strategies, Calvin Klein’s appeal affluent, high-earning consumers, aligning
meanwhile, 88% of consumers that have is highest amongst younger consumers, with the brand’s more premium positioning.

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Sloggi known for comfort FIGURE 46: USER PROFILE OF SLOGGI, APRIL 2018

Also owned by Triumph International,


Sloggi is marginally better known than its
sister brand Triumph and benefits from
better differentiation. Inevitably Sloggi is
seen as comfortable by more than half
(5%) of the consumers that have heard
of the brand. Meanwhile, other common
associations with the brand include
durability, quality and value. Although it
is largely regarded as a comfort-focused
lingerie brand, Sloggi has continued to
innovate, with frequent product launches
to extend it range. The most recent
examples include its S by Sloggi premium
bodywear range which launched in SS18
and it athleisure range which is due to
launch in AW18. Such efforts are likely
designed to attract younger customers, Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
however, research shows that its
popularity continues to peak amongst older FIGURE 47: USER PROFILE OF HEIDI KLUM INTIMATES, APRIL 2018
shoppers, likely driven by its inability to
generate an exciting brand image.

Key demographic groups – Despite


ongoing efforts to engage a younger
audience, Sloggi’s popularity continues to
be strongest amongst older customers.
Mirroring Triumph, brand awareness
and usage peaks amongst the over-45s.
Furthermore, contrasting some of the other
brands in the survey, Sloggi has a broad
appeal across socio-economic groups and
consumers of different affluence, likely
driven by the brand’s more accessible
positioning.

Heidi Klum Intimates seen as


stylish

Heidi Klum Intimates is one of the lesser- Source: Lightspeed/Mintel


known brands included in the research,
with 32% of women in the UK saying they many retailers. This is likely driven by the 34s, with 38% stating that they have
are aware of the brand and just 3% having positive attributes commonly associated heard of the brand. However, its popularity
ever used the brand. The brand is owned with the brand, with consumers who have appears to strongest amongst younger
by the Bendon Group, which also owns heard of the brand highly likely to see it shoppers, with the data showing that 18%
Stella McCartney Lingerie, Fayreform and as stylish, fun and exciting. Heidi Klum of 18-24s are committed to the brand.
Pleasure State. Under the Bendon Group Intimates is also considered to be the Furthermore, it is also these younger
banner, Heidi Klum Intimates replaced second most aspirational brand included consumers that are most inclined to say
Elle Macpherson Intimates in 2015; in the research, second only to Victoria’s that the brand makes them feel more
therefore, the brand is relatively young, Secret. confident.
which could be playing a part in its limited
brand awareness. However, it continues Key demographic groups – Heidi Klum’s
to be an important underwear label for brand awareness peaks among the 25-

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Curvy Kate attracts a young FIGURE 48: USER PROFILE OF CURVY KATE, APRIL 2018
customer

Curvy Kate also lacks brand awareness.


Just 19% of UK women having heard of
the brand and only 3% having ever used
the brand. However, it does benefit from
relatively high levels of commitment; with
nearly one in eight (12%) consumers
stating that it is either a favourite brand or
one that they prefer over other underwear
labels. This is likely driven by the brand’s
focus on the plus size and larger cup
market, as women who need such lingerie
products often having a lot less choice due
to many brands and retailers continuing
to offer a more limited range of sizes.
Aligned with this, Curvy Kate is also
strongly associated with being comfortable Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
and reassuring. However, the brand does
suffer somewhat from its limited brand included in the research, Curvy Kate’s the highest levels of trust in the Curvy Kate
awareness and falls behind a number of brand is strongest amongst younger brand.
the other brands in terms of trust. customers, with usage and awareness
peaking amongst under-44s. Commitment The data for these brands is available in
Key demographic groups – Mirroring a to the brand is particularly high amongst the Databook.
number of the other underwear brands the 25-34s. Meanwhile, the 35-44s place

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THE CONSUMER

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What You Need to Know


Three out of four consumers have bought underwear, research highlights the dominance of own-label products in this
nightwear or loungewear in the last year industry with just 13% of consumers stating they typically buy
premium underwear brands compared to 29% that buy value
There continues to be high levels of underwear, nightwear and own-label brands like Primark and 55% who buy standard own-
loungewear purchasing in the UK, with almost three quarters label brands like M&S. Younger underwear shoppers tend to
(70%) of consumers having purchased such goods for themselves either prefer value or premium brands, whilst older consumers
and a further fifth (19%) having purchased for someone else. favour standard brands, driven by the popularity of M&S amongst
Women are the most likely to have purchased underwear, older consumers (see Brand Types Purchased).
nightwear or loungewear in the last year, both for themselves
and for others (see Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear More than a third now shop online
Purchasing).
Although online continues to grow in prominence in the UK
Product preferences vary significantly by age underwear market, the vast majority of consumers still fulfil their
underwear, nightwear and loungewear needs in-store. Mintel’s
In the last year, 85% and 59% of women have bought underwear consumer research shows that 34% of underwear, nightwear
and nightwear/loungewear products respectively, with purchasing and loungewear consumers now shop online for such products.
driven by briefs and matching pyjama sets. Meanwhile, 82% and However, 79% still shop in-store.
35% of men have bought underwear and nightwear/loungewear
products respectively. In terms of retailer, consumers continue to favour clothing retailers
and supermarkets over specialist underwear retailers. To put
Analysing in more depth what underwear, nightwear and this into context, M&S and Primark are the most used retailers,
loungewear products consumers buy, there are some significant followed by Tesco and Asda (see How and Where They Shop).
differences in what people choose to purchase dependent on age.
T-shirt and non-wired bras are popular amongst young women, Still room for improvement in terms of fit and quality
whilst older Millennials are most likely to buy enhancing bras.
Meanwhile, in the menswear market, older men favour briefs When shopping for underwear, the factors that consumers would
and younger men show greater preference for boxers (see What most like to see improved are fit, quality and size guides. As such,
Women Buy and What Men Buy). retailers that fuel investment into these areas are most likely to
succeed, with developments such as half sizes, premium ranges
Age and affluence plays an important role in how and fitting technology likely to appeal to underwear shoppers (see
much consumers spend Improvements Desired When Shopping for Underwear).

On average UK consumers spent approximately £38 on Strong demand for more representative underwear
underwear and £34 on nightwear/loungewear in the last 12 campaigns
months. However, this average spend per person differs
significantly by age, with women, the 25-44s and affluent As we have discussed throughout this report, there has been a
consumers spending significantly more on underwear, whilst major shift in the UK underwear industry with retailers becoming
men and the 35-44s are the highest spenders on nightwear/ more inclusive with both product ranges and advertising
loungewear (see How Much They Spend). campaigns. Mintel’s research confirms that there is a demand
for such initiatives, with 73% of underwear, nightwear and
Young shoppers opt for value or premium, whilst loungewear consumers stating that they think campaigns
older generation prefer middle-market labels advertising these products should feature models that represent
the average person (see Attitudes Towards Buying Underwear,
We also asked consumers about their brand preferences when Nightwear and Loungewear).
shopping for underwear, nightwear or loungewear products. The

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Underwear, Nightwear and


Loungewear Purchasing
Most purchase for themselves FIGURE 49: PURCHASING OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
LOUNGEWEAR IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018
More than two thirds of consumers (70%)
in the UK have purchased underwear, “Which of the following statements about underwear, loungewear or nightwear
nightwear or loungewear for themselves apply to you in the last 12 months?”
in the last year, with a further fifth (19%)
stating that they bought such goods for
someone else. Women are significantly
%
more likely to buy underwear for
themselves, with 77% stating that they
have done so in the last year, compared I have purchased them for myself 70
with just 63% of men.

Affluence also impacts purchasing I have purchased them for someone


19
behaviour within this sector, with more else
affluent AB socio-economic consumers
significantly more likely to have bought
I have not purchased any in the last
underwear, nightwear or loungewear for 25
12 months
themselves in the last year compared
to less affluent consumers. However,
there was much less disparity in terms Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+
of purchasing underwear for others, with Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
lower socio-economic groups as likely to
have bought products for someone else as underwear, nightwear or loungewear losing relevance. Despite lingerie being
AB consumers. for themselves, but they are also more heavily promoted as a common gift for
likely than their male counterparts to Valentine’s Day, consumer research for
Analysing this data by region, consumers purchase these products for someone Mintel’s forthcoming Seasonal Shopping
in the North West of England appear to else. Purchasing for others peaks (Spring/Summer) – UK, October 2017
have the strongest affinity with buying amongst women aged 24-64, which Report found that just 3% of consumers
underwear. Some 78% of consumers implies that women are highly likely to bought underwear or nightwear for their
in this region have bought underwear, buying for their partners and other family loved ones for Valentine’s Day in 2018
nightwear or loungewear for themselves members. Indeed, the research shows that and this figure was similarly low for both
in the last year. Meanwhile, consumers in respondents with children are significantly Mother’s Day and Easter. This implies that
Yorkshire and Humberside are the most more likely to have bought underwear, marketing directed to consumers during
likely to buy such products for someone nightwear or loungewear for someone else these times may not be resonating.
else. than those without children.

Women drive gifting market A number of the seasonal events are


often associated with underwear or
The research found that women are nightwear gifting. However, consumer
not only significantly more likely to buy research suggests these events may be

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 62

Over-65s less likely to purchase FIGURE 50: PURCHASING OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
LOUNGEWEAR IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY GENDER, APRIL 2018
Age also plays a role in determining
whether or not consumers purchase “Which of the following statements about underwear, loungewear or nightwear
underwear, nightwear or loungewear. The apply to you in the last 12 months?”
research found that more than a third of
the over-65s (35%) have not purchased %
any of these products in the last year, likely
driven by a range of factors.
Purchased for myself 63
As we discuss in the Attitudes Towards 77
Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear
section of this report, older consumers are Purchased for someone else 14
significantly less likely to see buying such 25
products as a treat. This indicates that few
older consumers see buying underwear
Not purchased in the last 12 months 32
as enjoyable and instead see purchasing 18
as a necessity. Meanwhile, replacement
purchasing continues to drive the market,
particularly in terms of menswear. As such, Male Female
older consumers may not need to replace Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+
underwear or nightwear as frequently Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
as their younger counterparts, perhaps
because they are less likely to change size FIGURE 51: PURCHASING OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
as frequently. LOUNGEWEAR IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY AGE, APRIL 2018

“Which of the following statements about underwear, loungewear or nightwear


apply to you in the last 12 months?”

75
75
68
Have purchased for myself
71
63

14
22
21
Have purchased for someone else
20
15

21
19
26
Not purchased in the last 12 months
24
35

16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65+

Base: 2,000 internet users aged 16+


Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 63

What Women Buy


Women continue to favour t-shirt FIGURE 52: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR
bras WOMEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL
2018
In volume terms the women’s underwear
market continues to be driven by pants, “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
with Mintel’s consumer research finding
that overall 69% of women that have
bought underwear for themselves in the
%
last year purchased some form of pants,
compared to 55% that have bought at least Any underwear 85
one bra style. Briefs 60
Seamless/t-shirt bra 23
As we discuss in the Competitive
Strategies section, a number of the leading Enhancing bra 19
lingerie specialists have struggled in recent Sports bra 14
years as trends in the underwear market
have gone against their traditional offer. Non-wired bra 13
Consumer research further backs this up, Thong 10
with seamless and t-shirt styles remaining
Shorts 9
the most purchased bra types in the last
year. Further confirming the trend for more Other Underwear 9
natural product styles, the research found Shapewear 7
that one in eight women (13%) that have
self-purchased underwear in the last year Strapless/multiway bra 6
have bought a non-wired bra. Maternity/nursing bra 3
Any lounge/nightwear 59
However, although the research is
not directly comparable with Mintel’s Matching pyjamas 34
Underwear – UK, June 2016 Report due to Bottoms 19
differences in the survey, the two data sets
do suggest there may have been some T-shirt/top 15
resurgence in popularity of enhancing Dressing gown 13
bras, such as push-up or padded bras, as
Slip/nightdress 12
the disparity between those purchasing
t-shirt bras and those purchasing Sweatshirt 7
enhancing bras is significantly less in this Camisole/vest 7
year’s research compared with our 2016
research. Other lounge/nightwear 4
Other 60
Changing underwear preferences
Socks 50
with age
Hosiery 20
Across the board, young women tend Thermals 9
to drive purchasing of most underwear
product categories. However, there are Don't know/can't remember 3
some notable exceptions. Analysing the
purchase of enhancing bras by age, we Base: 772 female internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for
can see that purchasing peaks amongst themselves in the last 12 months
the 25-44s. Instead, young women (16- Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
24s) are significantly more likely to buy
seamless or t-shirt bras. Furthermore, the
research also confirms the popularity of
non-wired bras amongst young women.
Almost a fifth (19%) of 16-24s have bought

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 64

a non-wired bra in the last year, compared FIGURE 53: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR WOMEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR
to just 6% of 25-34s. Such products often THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY AGE, APRIL 2018
cost less due to less complex production
methods than wired bras, which correlates “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
with young women spending less on
average, which we discuss in the How
%
Much They Spend section.
48
The 16-24s are also the most likely to have 51
Briefs 57
bought a sports bra in the last year. This 69
65
aligns with research for Mintel’s Sports 68
Participation – UK, September 2017 26
Report, which found that the 16-24s are 14
Thong 12
the most active sports participants. Indeed, 4
3
78% of 16-24 females have participated 2
in at least one sporting activity in the last 17
year. Meanwhile, research for Mintel’s 13
Shorts 13
Sports Fashion – UK, December 2017 8
0
Report also found that the 16-24s are the 1
most inclined to buy sportswear, both for 36
29
sports use and everyday casualwear. 19
Seamless/t-shirt bra 25
15
Young women drive loungewear 12

purchases 23
29
Enhancing bra 28
13
Not only are young women driving the 10
underwear market, they are also driving 8

purchases of nightwear and loungewear. 24


20
Female 16-24s are the most likely to Sports bra 17
13
have bought items from several of the 6
3
core product categories, from matching
pyjamas to less traditional products such 19
6
as lounge sweatshirts, with purchasing Non-wired bra 7
13
declining gradually with age thereafter. 17
17
This implies that wearing nice items in
the home is important to young people, 17
6
which is something we discuss in more Strapless/multiway bra 5
3
depth in the Attitudes Towards Underwear, 4
3
Nightwear and Loungewear section.
7
12
The category that sees the least disparity Shapewear 7
6
in purchasing by age is the nightdress. 7
1
Purchasing of this product category peaks
amongst the 55-64s. However, purchasing
16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65+
is also similarly high among 25-34s and
over-65s. This implies that this garment Base: 772 female internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for
has a relatively broad appeal, but perhaps themselves in the last 12 months
retailers aren’t proactively targeting young Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
shoppers with such products.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 65

FIGURE 54: TYPES OF NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WOMEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12
MONTHS, BY AGE, APRIL 2018

“Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”

46
45
Matching pyjamas 39
32
26
17

33
27
Bottoms 19
17
16
2

26
19
T-shirt/top 13
14
11
3

23
17
Dressing gown 8
7
16
8

11
13
Slip/nightdress 8
10
16
13

20
7
Sweatshirt 6
6
6
0

12
12
Camisole/vest 7
6
4
2

16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65+


Base: 772 female internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Most women buy several different nightwear or loungewear products in one age groups. The general trend is that
types of underwear, nightwear and year. Almost two thirds (61%) of women older consumers tend to buy less, whilst
loungewear have bought at least three different types younger shoppers show more variety. To
of underwear, nightwear or loungewear put this into context, just 19% of 16-24s
To analyse this data further, we ran products in the last year. have bought just one or two different types
a repertoire analysis on the data to of products in the last year, compared
determine how many different types of The purchasing of multiple different to 50% of over-65s. Meanwhile, 47% of
products women tend to buy. The research products shows little disparity by affluence 16-24s have bought five or more different
found that the vast majority of women or location. However, there is again products in the last year, whilst just 5% of
buy multiple different types of underwear, some notable difference across different over 65s did the same.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 66

FIGURE 55: REPERTOIRE OF THE TYPES OF NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WOMEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR
THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018

“Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”

1 product 16

2 products 20

3 products 23

4 products 12

5+ products 27

Don't know/can't remember 3

Base: 772 female internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 67

What Men Buy


High levels of underwear FIGURE 56: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR MEN
purchasing amongst men HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018

As we discuss in the Market Segmentation “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
section of this report, womenswear
continues to account for the vast majority %
of the UK underwear and nightwear
market. However, sales of men’s products
Any underwear 82
continue to grow at a faster rate, which
means menswear is gradually accounting Tight-fitting trunks/boxer shorts 29
for a larger share of the market. This
Baggy boxer shorts 28
aligns with our consumer research which
found that a high percentage of men Briefs 27
have bought underwear, nightwear or
loungewear in the last year, with two out Y-fronts 9
of three men (63%) stating that they have Thong 5
bought such products for themselves in the
last year (see Underwear, Nightwear and Other underwear 3
Loungewear Purchasing).
Any lounge/nightwear 35
Although the men’s underwear market Bottoms (eg joggers) 16
is seeing robust growth, our research
Vest/t-shirt 12
suggests that retailers aren’t doing enough
to differentiate their ranges and engage Matching pyjamas 12
male underwear shoppers. Research
in the Attitudes Towards Underwear, Sweatshirt 8
Nightwear and Loungewear section shows Dressing gown 6
that men are significantly more likely than
women to think that a lot of retailers offer Other lounge/nightwear 2
too similar a range of goods. In recent
Other 61
years there has been a wave of brands
investing into the men’s underwear Socks 57
category, including Tom Ford which
Thermals 13
debuted a new men’s underwear line
at New York Fashion Week in February Don't know/can't remember 6
2018. Meanwhile, cult brands like Mack
Weldon and Tommy John continue to drive
the market forward through innovation. Base: 626 male internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves
More UK retailers should tap into such in the last 12 months
developments in the market to fuel even Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
stronger growth.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 68

Older men favour briefs over FIGURE 57: TYPES OF UNDERWEAR MEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES
boxers IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY AGE, APRIL 2018

Mirroring the womenswear market, men’s “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
underwear preferences differ significantly
with age. Whilst older men favour briefs, %
younger men are more likely to buy boxer
shorts. The trend for tight-fitting jeans has 33
driven demand for similarly tight-fitting Tight-fitting trunks/boxer shorts 33
19
boxer shorts in recent years amongst
young men. Meanwhile, high levels of 34
Baggy boxer shorts 31
sports participation amongst young men 17
will also be buoying demand for tighter-
fitting underwear styles, with research for 23
Briefs 24
Mintel’s Sports Fashion – UK, December 38
2017 Report showing that 20% of male
9
16-34s have bought sports underwear in Y-fronts 7
the last year. 12

9
However, our research also suggests there Thong 4
1
has been a resurgence in popularity of
loose-fitting underwear amongst young
16-34 35-54 55+
men, with such consumers now as likely to
buy loose fitting boxers as they are tight- Base: 626 male internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves
fitting boxer shorts. This is possibly driven in the last 12 months
by a rise in the number of youth fashion Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
retailers stocking and promoting such
garments. FIGURE 58: TYPES OF NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR MEN HAVE BOUGHT
FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY AGE, APRIL 2018
Young men most likely to buy
nightwear and loungewear “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”

Mintel’s research shows that one in three %


men (35%) that have bought underwear,
nightwear or loungewear in the last year 17
Bottoms 21
have purchased nightwear or loungewear, 10
with young men playing a particularly
strong role in this purchasing. 17
Vest/t-shirt 11
7
Whether it is work or leisure, research
19
suggests that more people are spending Matching pyjamas 8
time at home. In the Market Drivers section 7
of this report we discuss how a growing 13
work-from-home culture is fuelling demand Sweatshirt 6
3
for loungewear and nightwear. Meanwhile,
Mintel’s Consumer Trends, Attitudes and 11
Spending Habits for the Home, UK – Dressing gown 4
4
January 2018 Report found that as many
as 74% of UK consumers spend most of
16-34 35-54 55+
their leisure time at home. As such, it is
perhaps unsurprising that men are taking Base: 626 male internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves
pride in their appearance when at home. in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
The most popular lounge/nightwear
purchase for men is bottoms, including market, where matching pyjamas are interested in multifunctional garments that
joggers, followed by vests and t-shirts. significantly more popular than separates, can also be worn out of the home.
This contrasts with the womenswear which implies that men may be more

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 69

Less purchasing fluidity in men’s FIGURE 59: REPERTOIRE OF THE TYPES OF NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR
market MEN HAVE BOUGHT FOR THEMSELVES IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL
2018
As we discuss in the What Women
Buy section, women are highly likely to “Which of the following have you bought for yourself in the last 12 months?”
purchase a number of different underwear,
nightwear or loungewear products over %
the course of a year. However, this starkly
contrasts with the menswear market, with
1 product 29
repertoire analysis showing that 59% of
male consumers have only bought one or
two different garment types in the last 12
months. This figure rises to 68% for over- 2 products 30
55s, which further reiterates how young
men are driving the market.
3 products 17
As the majority of men have only bought
one or two different products in the last
year, the research suggests that many 4+ products 17
male consumers are likely to have bought
just one style of underwear, alongside a
pair of socks – more than half (57%) of Don't know/can't remember 6
the men included in this research have
bought at least one pair of socks in the last
year. This indicates that men are unlikely Base: 626 male internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear for themselves
to experiment with the styles of underwear in the last 12 months
that they wear and instead tend to stick Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
with one favoured style. Therefore, men
could well be buying multiple versions of
their favourite product styles – particularly
as a number of brands continue to
experiment with more trend-driven prints
and innovative fabrics.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 70

How Much They Spend


Consumers spend more on FIGURE 60: AVERAGE AMOUNT SPENT ON UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR/
underwear LOUNGEWEAR IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018

As UK consumers continue to largely buy “Approximately how much have you spent on each of the following products in
underwear, nightwear and loungewear the last 12 months for yourself?”
items only when necessary and also tend
38
to buy own-label ranges when they do
so, average annual spend per person
remains relatively low. This aligns with
Mintel’s Clothing Retailing – UK, October £
2017 Report which shows that sales 34
of underwear accounted for just 5% of
consumer spending on clothing in the UK
in 2017.
Underwear Lounge/Nightwear

As the chart shows below, consumers Base: 854 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear in the last 12 months and 505 internet users
on average spend significantly less on aged 16+ who have purchased loungewear or nightwear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
nightwear and loungewear, likely driven Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
by higher-levels of value purchasing in the
market, which we discuss in more depth FIGURE 61: AVERAGE AMOUNT SPENT ON UNDERWEAR IN THE LAST 12
in the Brand Types Purchased section. MONTHS, BY DEMOGRAPHICS, APRIL 2018
As significantly fewer consumers buy
nightwear and loungewear over the course “Approximately how much have you spent on each of the following products in
of a year, this leaves the market value the last 12 months for yourself?”
significantly behind underwear, though it
is growing at a faster rate and becoming £
a more important category for many
Male 32
retailers.
Female 43

Older Millennials most likely to


splash out on underwear 16-24 34
25-34 44
The chart below shows how much 35-44 46
consumers have spent on average on 45-54 37
underwear in the last year and highlights 55-64 32
that consumers that are willing to spend
65+ 28
more on such products.

Although men show a greater affection AB 46


for branded underwear, we can see that C1C2 37
women tend to spend more on average DE 30
per year – likely fuelled by their more
varied purchasing habits, with women Base: 854 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear in the last 12 months and 505 internet users
tending to buy a variety of different aged 16+ who have purchased loungewear or nightwear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
products. It is worth noting that women Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
often also have greater needs and
often require multiple different types of will drive up the value of womenswear data reveals that in 2016 the average age
underwear, ie a variety of different bra and purchases in this market. a woman now has a baby is 30 and the
knicker styles to suit different occasions, average age a man becomes a father is
as opposed to men who often only buy Elsewhere, we can see that average 33, it is likely that these consumers may
into one type of underwear. Meanwhile, spend peaks amongst the 25-44s, with be in the ‘nesting’ lifestage and having
the more complex production method for spend particularly high amongst the Older families, which could possibly account for
products like bras means they often come Millennials (29-38s) who spend an average the higher average spend.
with a higher price tag. All of these factors of £46 on underwear per annum. As ONS

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 71

Men spend more on nightwear and FIGURE 62: AVERAGE AMOUNT SPENT ON NIGHTWEAR/LOUNGEWEAR IN
loungewear THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY DEMOGRAPHICS, APRIL 2018

Contrasting the underwear market, men “Approximately how much have you spent on each of the following products in
who have bought nightwear or loungewear the last 12 months for yourself?”
in the last year spent significantly more
on such products than women who have £
bought similar items. In fact, men spent
approximately £12 more on average than
Male 42
women, which suggests that despite fewer
men buying nightwear and loungewear, Female 30
those that do may be more enthusiastic
about purchases. This correlates strongly
with their preference for branded goods. 16-34 36
This means there may be opportunities to
target men more proactively with premium 35-54 39
loungewear and products.
55+ 24
As we discuss in Mintel’s Marketing to
Men – UK, February 2017 Report, the
men’s marketing landscape has become AB 49
saturated with images of hyper-athletic
C1C2 29
male models and high-profile sportsmen,
meaning that these types of campaign no DE 29
longer offer the brands behind them the
same level of differentiation they may once
have enjoyed. Indeed, almost two thirds Base: 854 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear in the last 12 months and 505 internet users
(64%) of British men think advertising aged 16+ who have purchased loungewear or nightwear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
too often resorts to gender stereotypes. Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
Therefore, there are opportunities for
brands and retailers to promote nightwear
and loungewear ranges with campaigns
that centre around the home and family
life as opposed to overly sexualised
advertising, which are often commonplace
in the underwear market.

The research also shows that more


affluent AB consumers spend significantly
more on nightwear and loungewear
products.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 72

Brand Types Purchased


More than half stick with standard FIGURE 63: BRAND PREFERENCES WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
underwear brands APRIL 2018

To give more context to the underwear “Which types of brands do you buy most often for each of the following
and lounge/nightwear markets, we asked products?”
consumers about what kind of brands
they tend to buy for each of the respective Underwear
categories.
Don't know
3%
The chart below illustrates the extent that
own-label ranges continue to drive the UK
underwear market, with 29% of underwear
buyers stating that they buy value own- Premium
label ranges, like Primark and H&M, most 13% Value
often, with a further 55% stating that they
29%
buy standard own-label brands like M&S.
Meanwhile, just a small percentage of
consumers buy premium and branded
ranges most often, despite such brands
getting far more media attention.

This tendency to buy own-label ranges


is likely driven by the high levels of
replacement purchasing that continues to Standard
dominate the market. Some 60% of UK 55%
consumers say that it is only worth buying
new items when you need to replace old
ones – a figure which rises to 69% of men. Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
This suggests a lack of engagement and months and specified what they bought
interest in making underwear purchases Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
amongst a significant proportion of
consumers. of consumers stating that they think Armour’s Athlete Recovery Sleepwear,
branded underwear, nightwear and which is a nightwear range developed
High usage of value brands in the loungewear products are better quality by the sportswear brand in partnership
nightwear and loungewear sector than non-branded goods. This suggests with American footballer Tom Brady and
that premium brands or retailers that sell is designed to boost body recovery while
The chart below shows that it isn’t only such brands need to do more to highlight you sleep using a soft bio-ceramic print
the underwear market that is driven by the benefits if they want to encourage on the inside of garments that absorbs
own-label purchases, with just 7% of UK shoppers to trade up in their purchases in the body’s natural heat and reflects that
nightwear and loungewear buyers stating this market. energy back into the skin. This helps your
that they typically buy premium branded body recover faster and promotes better
goods. In fact, more than a third (35%) of Research for Mintel’s Sleep Aids – UK, sleep. See Mintel Trend Second Skin for
those that have bought such goods in the November 2017 Report shows that a more examples of how wearable tech is
last year said that they buy value ranges significant proportion of UK adults are becoming less obtrusive and is helping us
most often. As such, the data highlights not achieving the recommended number monitor our health and take control of our
how unconcerned consumers are with of sleep hours each day. Therefore, one lives.
brands in this particular fashion category. potential way for brands to encourage
consumers to invest in better-quality
This is perhaps driven by a lack of pyjamas is the potential sleep benefits.
trust in designer goods, with just 38% An example of a similar concept is Under

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 73

Men most likely to invest in FIGURE 64: BRAND PREFERENCES WHEN SHOPPING FOR NIGHTWEAR/
premium labels LOUNGEWEAR, APRIL 2018

Analysing this data by gender, we can “Which types of brands do you buy most often for each of the following
see that men are significantly more likely products?”
than women to buy branded underwear,
nightwear and loungewear. Purchasing of Lounge/Nightwear
premium underwear peaks amongst men
Don't know
aged 16-35, with 29% of such consumers
Premium 3%
having bought branded goods in the last 7%
year. This aligns with research for Mintel’s
Designer Fashion – UK, November
2017 Report, which shows that men are
significantly more likely to buy into branded Value
fashion than their female counterparts, 35%
with young men particularly more inclined
to buy designer goods.

Research for the same report also found


that men who buy into high-end fashion
labels may be doing so to offset some
Standard
self-esteem issues, with 56% of designer 55%
menswear buyers stating that buying such
products makes them feel more confident,
compared to just 49% of designer
womenswear consumers. This likely plays
a significant part in the greater tendency Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
for men to buy branded underwear months and specified what they bought
and suggests that there may be more Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
social pressure for men to buy designer
underwear. FIGURE 65: BRAND PREFERENCES WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR
AND NIGHTWEAR/LOUNGEWEAR, BY GENDER, APRIL 2018
Young shoppers favour value
brands “Which types of brands do you buy most often for each of the following
products?”
Whilst young people tend to drive
purchases of branded underwear, 63
nightwear and loungewear, the research
56 54
below shows that young people are also
the most inclined to buy into value ranges.
45
A number of the low-priced fast fashion
retailers have continued to strengthen 39
their underwear assortment, particularly % 32
in terms of women’s lingerie ranges. 26 27
Examples of how value fashion retailers 21
have been expanding their own-label
14
underwear ranges include Primark’s
bridal underwear which launched in 8
3
2017 and ASOS’s broad range of nude
underwear tones which were unveiled in
April 2018. Such developments, alongside Value Standard Premium Value Standard Premium
the ongoing popularity of value stores Underwear Lounge/Nightwear
for young women buying clothing, will be Male Female
inevitably encouraging such shoppers
to trade down in their purchases and Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
move away from the mid-market players, months and specified what they bought
particularly as the shift towards more basic Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
and understated lingerie styles means it is
easier than ever to cater to young women.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 74

In contrast, older consumers are more significantly depending on affluence. Klein likely encouraging a wide range of
likely to buy into the middle-market brands, Perhaps unsurprisingly, consumers with consumers to trade up in their underwear
with the popularity of M&S amongst a more affluent AB socio-economic status purchases with high-profile campaigns
older shoppers likely driving the greater are significantly more likely to buy into such as its recent Spring/Summer 2018
tendency for older consumers to buy more premium labels. ads featuring the infamous Kardashian
standard own-brand products. As we and Jenner sisters. For more information,
discuss in the How and Where They Shop This trend is particularly strong in the see the Advertising and Marketing Activity
section, usage of M&S for underwear lounge and nightwear category, where one section.
purchasing gradually increases with age, in 10 AB (11%) consumers typically tend
which mirrors the research in the chart to trade up their purchases, compared
below. to just 5% of C1C2 consumers and 5%
of DE consumers. There is less disparity
Affluent more willing to trade up in between socio-economic groups in terms
their purchases of premium underwear purchasing, which
suggests that the premium brands may be
Underwear, nightwear and loungewear better at engaging to a wider audience with
brand purchasing tendencies differ underwear ranges, with brands like Calvin

FIGURE 66: BRAND PREFERENCES WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR/LOUNGEWEAR, BY AGE,
APRIL 2018

“Which types of brands do you buy most often for each of the following products?”

6768
64 636464
57 58
51
43 45 43
41
% 35 3636
32 3130
28 27
2323
20 1919
15
10 12
8 10
5 7
3 2
0

Value Standard Premium Value Standard Premium


Underwear Lounge/Nightwear
16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55-64 65+
Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

FIGURE 67: BRAND PREFERENCES WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR AND NIGHTWEAR/LOUNGEWEAR, BY
SOCIO-ECONOMIC STATUS, APRIL 2018

“Which types of brands do you buy most often for each of the following products?”

59 59 56
53 50 49
41
34 35
% 29
26 28

17
13 11
10
5 5

Value Standard Premium Value Standard Premium


Underwear Lounge/Nightwear
AB C1C2 DE

Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months and specified what they bought
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 75

How and Where They Shop


Majority continue to shop in-store FIGURE 68: HOW UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WAS
PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018
Although online continues to grow
in prominence in the UK underwear “How have you bought underwear, loungewear or nightwear for yourself or
market, the vast majority of consumers others in the last 12 months?”
still fulfil their underwear, nightwear and
loungewear needs in-store. The research %
found that women are significantly more
likely to shop in-store than men – 82%
of women have done so in the last year
compared with 74% of men. Meanwhile, In-store 79
the percentage of men and women buying
online is more closely aligned at 33% and
36% respectively.

This is perhaps unsurprising given that Online 34


women typically have a greater need to try
lingerie garments on ahead of purchase.
However, replacement buying is driving an
uplift in online sales in the womenswear
market as many women use online Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
services to replace their favourite bra months
styles. Once a woman knows her size in Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
a particular lingerie brand, she can often
easily make repeat purchases online to in the last year. This suggests that there year, with men actually marginally more
replace worn out items or buy new items in may be a tendency for consumers to likely to buy goods from a specialist than
a different colour. purchase underwear whilst shopping for women. In theory, specialist retailers
other fashion items, or that consumers should be in strong position to attract
There have also been continued efforts place greater trust in retailers that they women with their expertise. Instead,
among many brands and retailers to frequently use. Indeed this is something they appear to be attracting more male
educate women on how to fit themselves that is important to shoppers as 68% say gift shoppers. Therefore, this research
properly at home, with brands like Triumph that it is important to buy underwear from a suggests that such retailers may be
and Curvy Kate frequently discussing “how trustworthy retailer (see Attitudes Towards failing to highlight their expertise enough
to find the perfect bra” in national press Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear). to women and tap into a strong demand
campaigns. Meanwhile, others are using for human advice in the sector, which is
technology to drive online sales, including Despite underwear often being a sensitive discussed in more depth in Mintel Trend
Figleaves’ “Live Fit” which is a virtual fitting and/or difficult purchase as many women Return to the Experts.
service that is carried out over Skype. For struggle to find the right bra fit (See
more information see the Launch Activity Improvements Desired When Shopping This also further confirms the shifting
and Innovation section. for Underwear), the research also trends in women’s underwear preferences,
suggests that the lingerie specialists may as the specialists continue to have an offer
Most shop where it is convenient be struggling to attract shoppers and in which is largely dedicated to provocative
particular female shoppers. and enhancing underwear styles, which
More than half (57%) of UK consumers women continue to eschew in favour of
have purchased underwear, nightwear Just 15% of UK consumers have shopped more natural and comfortable styles.
or loungewear from a clothing specialist with an underwear specialist in the last

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 76

FIGURE 69: WHERE UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WAS PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS,
APRIL 2018

“Where have you bought underwear, loungewear or nightwear for yourself or others in the last 12 months?”

Clothing stores 57
Marks & Spencer 27
Primark 23
Next 11
H&M 8
Other clothing store 9
Supermarkets 34
Tesco 16
Asda 14
Sainsbury's 11
Other supermarket 3
Department stores 21
Debenhams 10
John Lewis 6
House of Fraser 3
Other department store 5
Online-only retailers 17
Amazon 10
ASOS 3
Figleaves 0.4
Other online-only retailer 7
Underwear specialists 15
Victoria's Secret 5
Ann Summers 5
Boux Avenue 3
Bravissimo 3
Independent underwear store 2
Other specialist 2
Other retailers 11
Sports Store (eg JD Sports) 5
Designer store (eg Calvin Klein) 2
Outlet store 2
Other retailer 4
Don't know/can't remember 7

Base: 1,460 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months and specified how they shopped
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Underwear specialists popular – both of which are significantly higher Meanwhile, affluent AB shoppers are
with young and affluent percentages than seen amongst other significantly more likely to shop in
consumer groups. Young and affluent independent boutiques, likely driven
Whilst the specialists don’t appear to be shoppers are more likely to have shopped by the higher price-tag often and more
resonating enough with female shoppers, with all of the named specialists included varied brand assortment associated with
their popularity is notably stronger in the research, which include Victoria’s such stores, alongside a better, more
amongst younger and more affluent Secret, Ann Summers, Boux Avenue and personalised service, which is an area
shoppers. In the last year, 28% of 16-24 Bravissimo. This implies there may be a where many of the independents often
underwear buyers have shopped with lack of brand awareness amongst older excel.
a specialist, whilst 23% of affluent AB generations.
shoppers have shopped with such retailers

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 77

FIGURE 70: WHERE UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WAS PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY
AGE AND INCOME, APRIL 2018

“Where have you bought underwear, loungewear or nightwear for yourself or others in the last 12 months?”

35

34
Department
33 Underwear stores
specialists
Average income £000

32

31 Online-only
retailers
Supermarkets
30

29

28
Clothing
27 specialists

26
32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46
Average age
Base: 1,460 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months and specified how they shopped
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Underwear specialists most FIGURE 71: HOW UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR WAS
popular online PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY RETAILER USED, APRIL 2018

To analyse this data in more depth,


we cross-analysed the retailers people % point deviation from average
used to buy underwear, nightwear and
loungewear with how they shopped, either Any underwear specialist -1.6
16.2
in-store or online. Although consumers did
Any clothing specialist 1.8
not explicitly say how they shopped with 1.1
each individual retailer, the chart below M&S 2.2
3.4
does give some indication of consumer
behaviour. Primark 7.6
-4.9
Next -1.8
Inevitably, Primark shoppers are 14.8
significantly less likely to have bought H&M -0.7
15.4
underwear products online in the last year 2.8
Any department Stores 4.1
as the retailer still has no e-commerce
site. Meanwhile, those that have bought Debenhams 4.7
7.6
underwear, nightwear or loungewear from
Any supermarket 3.0
a supermarket in the last year are also 0.9
less likely to have shopped online for such Tesco 1.9
1.7
products. With the exception of M&S,
Asda 3.3
the clothing specialists appear to have a 1.6
strong online offer, as do the specialists, 4.5
Sainsbury's 3.1
the latter of which could be helping the
specialists to offset their more limited
geographical reach. In-store Online
Base: 1,460 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, loungewear or nightwear in-store or online
To put this into context, Victoria’s Secret in the last 12 months
has around 20 stores in the UK, while Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
Boux Avenue has 29, as does Bravissimo.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 78

Ann Summers has more with 119 FIGURE 72: WHERE CONSUMERS SHOP FOR UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR
UK stores, though this still pales into AND LOUNGEWEAR, BY BRAND PREFERENCE, APRIL 2018
insignificance in comparison with stores
like M&S. M&S had 345 stores which offer
its non-food ranges in the UK at year end % point deviation from average
in March 2017, though it is looking to close
approximately 60 of these stores in the
5.8
next five years as it continues to focus on Underwear specialists -0.1
food stores instead. 16.2

Consumers head to specialists for 3.8


premium brands Clothing stores 4.1
-10.6
Again to analyse this data in more depth,
we cross-analysed the retailers people -2.2
used to buy underwear, nightwear and Department stores 3.5
loungewear with the brand types they 11.9
purchased. Consumers did not explicitly
say which brands they bought from each 5.5
individual retailer, so they chart below Supermarkets 3.0
should only be used as a guide. -10.0%

The chart shows highlights some key 2.6


trends in where people choose for Online-only retailers* -4.3
different brand types, with the specialists, 12.2
department stores and pureplay retailers
popular amongst consumers that buy Value Standard Premium
premium labels whilst the supermarket and
clothing stores attract value and standard Base: 1,244 internet users aged 16+ who purchased underwear loungewear, or nightwear for themselves in the
label buyers. last 12 months in-store or online and specified what they bought
* Base: 429 internet users aged 16+ who purchased underwear loungewear, or nightwear for themselves in the
Almost half loyal to one retailer last 12 months online and specified what they bought
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
We also ran a repertoire analysis on
this data to identify the extent to which FIGURE 73: REPERTOIRE OF WHERE UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
consumers tend to shop around for LOUNGEWEAR WAS PURCHASED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, APRIL 2018
underwear, nightwear and loungewear.
The research suggests there are “Where have you bought underwear, loungewear or nightwear for yourself or
relatively high levels of brand, or at least others in the last 12 months?”
retailer loyalty, in the sector. One in two
consumers (48%) have shopped with just
%
one retailer for underwear, nightwear or
loungewear in the last year.
1 retailer 48
This aligns with relatively low average 2 retailers 21
spend per person (see How Much They
3 retailers 11
Spend) and together these two datasets
imply that purchasing frequency is low 4+ retailers 12
within this market.
Don't know/can't remember 7
Analysing this data by demographics,
we can see that men are significantly Base: 1,460 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
more likely to shop at one retailer (54% months and specified how they shopped
have done so in the last year) whereas Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
women shop around more. Meanwhile,
a similarly pronounced trend appears of different retailers. This lesser brand shopping around as they age and appear
by age, with older shoppers more loyal loyalty amongst young shoppers could to be much more experimental in their
to just one retailer, whilst younger well erode the dominance of players like underwear purchasing than their older
shoppers buy underwear, nightwear M&S and Primark in future as young counterparts.
and loungewear products from a variety people will likely retain their preference for

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 79

Improvements Desired When


Shopping for Underwear
Fit and quality remain top FIGURE 74: IMPROVEMENTS DESIRED WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
priorities APRIL 2018

The frustrations that consumers, “Which of the following would you most like to see improved when shopping for
particularly women, face when shopping underwear?”
for underwear are a common subject of
discussion. To quantify this, we asked %
people about the improvements they
would most like to see when shopping for
Product fit 40
underwear. There is much discussion in
the media about the percentage of women
that are wearing the wrong bra size and Product quality 38
our research confirms that fit is an issue
that many consumers struggle with. Some
Size guides 33
40% of UK underwear consumers say that
they would like retailers to improve product
fit, but this figure rises substantially Loyalty/reward schemes 25
amongst women to 46%.

Range of brands 21
As fit continues to be a troublesome area
for consumers, brands and retailers alike
continue to experiment with different More frequently updated ranges 15
ways to help shoppers find better fitting
garments. In November 2017, Panache
Changing room experience 13
launched “Click, Fit and Collect” in a
bid to encourage more customers to
have a fitting in-store before they make Customer service 11
their purchase, which is a service that
gives customers an opportunity to order
direct from its website then collect their Store environment 8
reservations from their nearest Panache
stockist. None of these 21

Meanwhile, the focus for others has been


to create better fitting products, including Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear for themselves in the last 12 months
US lingerie brand ThirdLove, which not Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
only offers bras in half-cup sizes but also
gives advice on which bras suit different are likely to be placing greater importance guidance on sizing to ensure they capture
breast shapes. Given the high percentage on sizing guides and our research shoppers.
of women in the UK that say they would shows that young women are particularly
like retailers to improve the fit of the interested in seeing improvements in This demand for help in the decision-
products they offer, such a concept is this area. Young women are much more making process goes hand-in-hand with
highly likely to resonate amongst British likely to shop around at a variety of Mintel Trend Guiding Choice, which
women. different retailers and buy a wide range of explores how faced with too much choice
underwear styles. Therefore, their need for and too little time, consumers are looking
Size guides important to younger guidance in terms of sizing may be greater for shortcuts to aid their decision-making.
women than that of those who tend to be loyal to a
small number of brands or product styles. Meanwhile, there may also be
As a growing number of women are As such, retailers targeting this audience opportunities to encourage young women
shopping online for underwear, consumers need to ensure they offer comprehensive to trade up in their underwear purchases

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 80

as they are the most likely to say they FIGURE 75: IMPROVEMENTS DESIRED WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
would like to see quality improved when BY AGE AND GENDER, APRIL 2018
shopping for undergarments – something
which could be driven by their tendency to “Which of the following would you most like to see improved when shopping for
buy value brands. underwear?”

Young men highly influenced by %


brand assortment
45
The areas men, particularly younger Product fit 50
41
ones, would like to see improved differ
significantly from what women would like 43
Product quality 37
to see. Although product fit and quality 33
are similarly of high priority, young men
show significantly more interest in seeing 40
Size guides 38
more variation in terms of products. Almost 31
a third (30%) of 16-34 males would like
27
to see a better range of brands made Loyalty/reward schemes 30
available to them, whilst a fifth (19%) want 25
more frequently updated ranges. This 21
further reiterates a fatigue amongst young Range of brands 20
17
men in the choice of products they feel
they are being offered. Research in the 17
More frequently updated ranges 15
Attitudes Towards Underwear, Nightwear 13
and Loungewear section of this report
shows that 68% of young men feel that the 17
Changing room experience 14
range available at a lot of retailers is too 11
similar.
14
Customer service 7
Young men also place greater significance 8
on store experience, which is illustrated 8
in the chart below, with one in five 16- Store environment 4
5
34s stating that they would like to see
store environment and changing room
experience improved when shopping for Female 16-34 Female 35-54 Female 55+
underwear. This suggests that retailers
have vastly underestimated the importance Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear for themselves in the last 12 months
of these factors to men. This theory Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
correlates with Mintel Trend Experience
is All, which discusses how retailers’ An example of a brand that retailers could a strong brand identity. The brand now has
over-emphasis on speed, convenience look to for inspiration as they seek to approximately 60 standalone stores, all of
and price has led consumers to crave create a more appealing men’s underwear which are designed to further cement the
experiences in brick and mortar spaces shopping environment is Happy Socks. brand’s playful image.
and physical places. As a result, retailers The Swedish accessories brand was
have an opportunity to create a more founded in 2008 and continued to develop
innovative and engaging space to buy in an organic way, expanding its range of
men’s underwear. quirky accessories product whilst retaining

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 81

FIGURE 76: IMPROVEMENTS DESIRED WHEN SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR, BY AGE AND GENDER, APRIL 2018

“Which of the following would you most like to see improved when shopping for underwear?”

36
Product fit 34
24
37
Product quality 39
35
27
Size guides 27
28
18
Loyalty/reward schemes 27
15
30
Range of brands 20
15
19
More frequently updated ranges 14
8
20
Changing room experience 8
5
19
Customer service 11
3
19
Store environment 8
4

Male 16-34 Male 35-54 Male 55+

Base: 1,167 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear for themselves in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 82

Attitudes towards Shopping


for Underwear, Nightwear and
Loungewear
Trend for comfort shows no signs to offer products that are focused on marketing strategies to be more inclusive
of fading fast body enhancement, and as a result have and diverse when promoting intimates.
struggled to engage shoppers. Such efforts in underwear advertising taps
The chart below reiterates how female into The Real Thing, a Mintel Trend that
underwear preferences have shifted However, this trend goes beyond identifies how consumers are increasingly
towards more comfortable styles, with comfortable underwear styles. It has craving products and experiences that
four out of five consumers (80%) agreeing also fuelled a demand for natural and come with a stamp of authenticity. As
that comfort is more important than the representative body ideals in underwear a result, we expect the consumer to
design. Although men are more still more advertising, which many of the bigger increasingly expect to see more inclusive
likely than women to agree with this specialist retailers in the UK have also and representative underwear campaigns
statement, as many as 78% of women been resistant to embrace. In contrast, a and those that don’t move to such a
also agree. A number of the traditional number of the non-specialists, particularly strategy could risk disengagement
lingerie specialists have failed to adapt to in the youth-fashion market such as amongst many of their customers.
these changing preferences, continuing Missguided and ASOS, have altered their

FIGURE 77: ATTITUDES TOWARDS SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR, APRIL 2018

“To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements about shopping for underwear, nightwear and
loungewear?”

Comfort is more important than design 80 16 3


Campaigns should feature models that represent the average
73 23 4
person
It is important to buy underwear from a trustworthy retailer 68 26 6
It is only worth buying new items when you need to replace old
60 24 16
items (eg different size, worn-out)
Shopping online is often cheaper than in-store 57 33 10

It is important to wear nice lounge/nightwear at home 56 32 11

Shopping in-store is easier than online 56 28 16

Buying new underwear, nightwear or loungewear is a treat 56 28 16

It is better to try products on in-store before purchasing 54 31 14

The range available at a lot of retailers is too similar 52 37 11

It is only worth buying them when there is a sale on 46 33 21

Branded products are better quality than own-label 38 41 21

Any Agree Neither agree nor disagree Any Disagree

Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 83

Young appear more dissatisfied FIGURE 78: ATTITUDES TOWARDS SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
with range NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR, BY AGE AND GENDER, APRIL 2018

Analysing this data by demographics, “To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements about
we can see that young consumers are shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear?”
significantly less satisfied with the range
of brands available at most retailers. High 68
levels of brand loyalty in the underwear 62
sector means retailers are often resistant 56
52 51
to change their brand mix too dramatically. 48
46 46
However, this research suggests that it 43
could be a strong differentiation strategy 40
% 34
to offer an additional assortment of smaller
30
niche or emerging brands. A number of
the independent boutiques have reported
this as a successful strategy to offset
ongoing competitive pricing strategies in
the market, but many of the bigger players
continue to offer a similar range of brands.
16-34 35-54 55+ 16-34 35-54 55+
This fatigue with brands could also
Male Female
be eroding full-price sales, as young
consumers are also more likely to think It is only worth buying them when there is a sale on
that it is only worth buying items when they The range available at a lot of retailers is too similar
are discounted. Therefore, more variation
and limited-edition products in the sector Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
could help to boost full-price sales. months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
Buying underwear, nightwear or
loungewear is seen as a treat for Almost two thirds (62%) of women Although men are less likely to see
most women overall think that buying new underwear, underwear, nightwear and loungewear
nightwear or loungewear is a treat, with purchases as a treat, they do think that it
The chart below helps to put into context this figure rising to 70% of young women. is important to wear nice loungewear when
which consumers are likely to enjoy As a result, retailers have an opportunity to at home, with 57% of male consumers
making underwear, nightwear and use this as a core message in advertising, overall agreeing with this statement. As we
loungewear purchases. Such consumers particularly as consumers are showing have discussed throughout this Report,
are important to the market, as the fatigue with the overly sexualised images a growing work-from-home culture in the
likelihood is that they will find it harder to that are commonplace in the industry. UK is likely to be making people more
resist the temptation to buy such goods This is a trend that has particularly strong concerned with their home attire. However,
when they have less money, particularly as momentum in the beauty industry, with lots this shift in attitudes also aligns with
underwear is often seen as an affordable of brands focused on self-gifting products Mintel Trend Life – An Informal Affair,
treat. As such, the underwear sector often as an indulgent treat, which is something which discusses how society as a whole
mirrors the beauty sector and can often discussed in more depth in Mintel’s is relaxing, which in turn has fuelled a
see an uplift when consumers feel their Beauty and Personal Care Gifting – UK, new demand for both more casual and
incomes being squeezed. Therefore, it is January 2018 Report. However, with a comfortable clothing. This means there
important to understand which consumers high percentage of women agreeing that are opportunities to tap into changing
consider making such purchases as a treat underwear purchases are also seen as a consumer preference with loungewear
and the chart below highlights how women treat, there is definite scope for this trend items that have a multi-functional use and
are the most engaged on this basis. to move into the underwear sector. can also be worn away from the home.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 84

FIGURE 79: ATTITUDES TOWARDS SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR, BY AGE AND
GENDER, APRIL 2018

“To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements about shopping for underwear, nightwear and
loungewear?”

70 69 70
64 62
60
54 55 52 53
46 43 42 40
% 29
27 28
19

16-34 35-54 55+ 16-34 35-54 55+


Male Female
Buying new underwear, nightwear or loungewear is a treat
It is important to wear nice lounge/nightwear at home
Branded products are better quality than own-label

Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12 months
Source: Lightspeed/Mintel

Over-55s still think shopping in- FIGURE 80: ATTITUDES TOWARDS SHOPPING FOR UNDERWEAR,
store is easier NIGHTWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR, BY AGE AND GENDER, APRIL 2018

There is also some significant difference “To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements about
in consumer attitudes towards in-store shopping for underwear, nightwear and loungewear?”
and online purchasing of underwear by
age and gender. Perhaps unsurprisingly, 75
our research shows that women are
significantly more likely to still shop in- 63 64 64 62
store for underwear, which goes hand-in- 55 56 57 54 53 56
56
52
hand with the data below that shows that 50
47
47
men tend to have a better perception of 42
online in general. % 37

Overall 64% of male consumers think


that shopping online is often cheaper,
compared to 51% of women that agree
with the same statement. Meanwhile,
women are also more likely to see the
benefits of shopping in-store. Some
57% of female consumers think that it is 16-34 35-54 55+ 16-34 35-54 55+
better to try products on in-store before Male Female
purchasing them. Shopping online is often cheaper than in-store
Shopping in-store is easier than online
Interestingly, women show little disparity
in their attitudes towards online and It is better to try products on in-store before purchasing
offline by age, whereas men tend to have
significantly different opinions depending Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
on their age. However, this could be down months
to apathy towards underwear purchasing Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
amongst older male consumers, with
over-55s less likely to agree with all of the
statements.

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 85

Target Groups
We have further analysed the data from FIGURE 81: ATTITUDES TOWARDS UNDERWEAR, NIGHTWEAR AND
the Attitudes Towards Shopping for LOUNGEWEAR, BY TARGET GROUPS, APRIL 2018
Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear
section and used the results of this
question to identify four target groups
based on their opinions. Each of the
consumer groups have different attitudes
and priorities when thinking about
shopping for underwear, nightwear
and loungewear products. Select
demographics of these groups and their Enthusiastic but Reluctant
responses to the statements are used Savvy Spenders
33% 35%
as the basis for this analysis and are
discussed below. For the full demographic
information on these target groups, please
see the interactive Databook.

Key Characteristics
Creatures of
Comfort
Reluctant Spenders 32%

Reluctant Spenders are the least engaged


in underwear, nightwear and loungewear.
Instead of seeing the purchase of
such products as enjoyable, these
consumers are most likely to only shop for Base: 1,499 internet users aged 16+ who have purchased underwear, nightwear or loungewear in the last 12
replacement purchases. They don’t see months
the importance of wearing nice clothing Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
at home and therefore tend to shop
wherever they can find the lowest prices. loungewear. Their desire for comfort not only think that it is important to wear
This means they often prefer to fulfil their means they also seek out the easiest nice nightwear and loungewear when
purchasing needs online and favour online route when shopping, with in-store their at home, but also most likely to see
over stores for both the convenience and preferred shopping channel for ease. buying such garments as a treat. Their
the perceived availability of lower prices. They also lack enthusiasm when shopping passion for the category means they see
Reluctant Spenders also show a lack of for underwear, nightwear or loungewear the value in buying branded goods. As
trust in brands and are less likely to think and don’t consider buying these products these are the shoppers most willing to
that brands are any better in terms of as a treat. However, in contrast to the trade up in their purchases, they expect
quality than own-label goods. Reluctant other target groups, they are less savvy more when shopping and prefer to shop
Spenders tend to be older in age and less and show a greater willingness to buy with trustworthy retailers and like to try
affluent, and in terms of region they are products at their full price, despite a garments on ahead of purchase. Whilst
most likely to live in rural locations and in lack of engagement overall. Women are these consumers are enthusiastic about
Yorkshire & Humberside and the South significantly more likely than men to be shopping for underwear, nightwear and
East of England. Creatures of Comfort, and this target group loungewear, they do like a bargain and
is also more likely to be older in age, less will often shop during sale periods. In
Creatures of Comfort affluent and be the parent of over-18s. total contrast to the Creatures of Comfort,
Savvy Enthusiasts tend to be male, young
Comfort is of the utmost importance to Savvy Enthusiasts and affluent. In terms of region, those in
the Creatures of Comfort, with these urban areas such as London are most
consumers highly to think that comfort Savvy Enthusiasts are the most positive likely to be Savvy Enthusiasts. Meanwhile,
is more important than design when about shopping for underwear, nightwear parents of under-18s are most likely to fall
shopping for underwear, nightwear or and loungewear and are most likely to into this Target Group.

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APPENDIX

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 87

Data Sources, Abbreviations and


Supporting Information
Data sources Consumer research methodology

ONS copyright material is reproduced with the permission of the Mintel commissioned consumer research for this report to assess
Office for National Statistics. underwear, nightwear and loungewear purchasing in the UK.
Research was carried out by Lightspeed among 2,000 internet
Crown copyright material is reproduced with the permission of users aged 16+ in April 2018. Detailed demographics are given in
the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office and the Queen’s the Databook.
Printer for Scotland.

Data relating to retailer revenues, operating profits and store


numbers and size is either sourced directly from companies or
through the company’s publicly available annual and quarterly
financial reports as well as data accessed via Companies House.

Financial definitions

Value figures throughout this report are at retail selling prices


(RSP) and include VAT unless stated otherwise. Market sizes at
constant 2017 prices are devised using Mintel’s all items deflator.

Abbreviations
AWE Average Weekly Earnings
Brexit Britain’s exit from the EU
Consumer Price Inflation (including owner-occupiers’
CPIH
housing costs)
est Mintel Estimate
EU European Union
fore Mintel Forecast
HMRC Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs
H&M Hennes & Mauritz
M&S Marks & Spencer
NA Not Available or Not Applicable
NAI Nielsen Ad Intel
ONS Office for National Statistics
PDI Personal Disposable Income
proj Projection
RSP Retail Selling Price
SKU Stock Keeping Unit
USP Unique Selling Point
VAT Value Added Tax

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UNDERWEAR (INCL. LOUNGEWEAR/NIGHTWEAR), UK - JUNE 2018 88

Market Size and Forecast


Forecast methodology market value of the UK underwear, nightwear and loungewear
market over the next five years.
Mintel has produced this forecast based on an advanced
statistical technique known as ‘multivariate time series auto- The future uncertainty within this market is illustrated by the
regression’ using the statistical software package SPSS. coloured bands around the five-year forecast. The widening
bands successively show the developments that occur within
The model, based on historical market size data taken from 95%, 90%, 70% and 50% probability intervals. Statistical
Mintel’s own market size database and supplemented by macro- processes predict the central forecast to fall within the darker
and socio-economic data sourced from credible organisations shaded area which illustrates 50% probability ie a five in 10
(eg Office for National Statistics, HM Treasury, Bank of England), chance.
searches for relationships between actual market sizes and
a selection of key economic and demographic determinants At a 95% confidence interval, we are saying that 95 out of 100
(independent variables) in order to identify those predictors times, the forecast will fall within these outer limits, which we
having the most influence on the market. call the best and worst case forecast as these, based on the
statistically driven forecast, are the highest (best case) and lowest
Next to historical market sizes and a current year estimate, the (worst case) market sizes the market is expected to achieve.
fan chart illustrates the probability of various outcomes for the

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RESEARCH
METHODOLOGY

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UK RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 90

UK Research Methodology
Mintel is an independent market analysis Sampling and weighting for, job actually done, job title/rank/grade,
company that prides itself on supplying and whether the chief income earner is
objective information on a whole range of Face to Face Surveys self-employed. Additionally, questions are
markets and marketing issues. asked about the number of people working
Ipsos Mori at the place of employment and whether
There are six main sources of research the chief income earner is responsible
that are used in the compilation of Mintel Ipsos MORI Capibus uses a two-stage for anyone, together with confirmation
reports: random location sample design which of qualifications. Once the interviewer is
generates a very high quality sample satisfied that sufficient information has
• Consumer research representative of the Great Britain adult been gathered in order to determine social
population. Interviews are conducted grade, their estimate is recorded and
• Brand & social media research via c170-180 sampling points, randomly this is later double checked for accuracy
selected every week, and CACI ACORN by experts in social grading coding at
• Desk research is employed to set interlocking quota Ipsos MORI when it can be amended if
controls specific to each interviewer necessary.
• Trade research location. This ensures consistent accurate
representation of the locations interviewed Online Surveys
• Statistical forecasting every week. By using this proven sample
design, all sub-sectors of the population Lightspeed
• Mintel’s exclusive archive of over 40 are represented – at a national and
years of analysis and expertise. regional level. Founded in 1999, Lightspeed’s double
opt-in online consumer panel has reach
Mintel reports are written and managed by All information collected on Capibus is to approximately 450,000 consumers in
analysts with experience in the relevant then weighted to reflect the known profile the UK. Lightspeed delivers uniquely
markets. of the adult population in Great Britain. identified online respondents via extensive
Capibus uses a rim weighting system use of fraud detection and location-
Consumer research which weights to mid-2010 census and verification technology at multiple points in
NRS defined profiles for age, social grade, the research cycle, from initial registration
Exclusive and original quantitative region, ethnicity and working status - within through survey fielding and incentive
consumer research is commissioned gender. Additional profiles used include redemption. Lightspeed panellists are
for almost all Mintel reports. In addition, tenure and car in household, for example. profiled on a wide variety of attri¬butes
qualitative research is also undertaken for to deliver the specific hard-to-reach
a large proportion of reports in the form of Because the sampling process is repeated demographics.
online discussion groups. Mintel invests a every week, the Capibus sample is
considerable sum each year in consumer matched wave on wave, making it ideal for To ensure our surveys are nationally
research, and the purchaser of a Mintel taking successive measurements on the representative of internet users, Mintel
report benefits, as the price of an individual same issue. sets quotas for each age group, split by
report is less than the cost of the original gender. Specific quotas for a sample of
research alone. The research brings an Calculation of socio-economic grade in 2,000 adults aged 16+ are shown below:
up-to-date and unique insight into topical Ipsos MORI Capibus surveys
issues of importance. Note:- Lightspeed GMI was re-branded as
Socio-economic grade is classified Lightspeed in September 2016
Consumer research is conducted among a according to the occupation of the chief
nationally representative sample of either income earner in the household. A
adults or internet users and is generally number of questions are asked by the
carried out by Lightspeed (online), Ipsos interviewer in order to assign social grade
Mori (face to face), while other suppliers accurately. The interviewer probes the
are used on an ad hoc basis as required. respondent for information about the
The results are only available in Mintel occupation of the chief income earner,
reports. the type of organisation he or she works

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UK RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 91

Age groups by gender % % Social economic group % N Qualitative Research

FocusVision Revelation
16-19 men 3.3 67 AB 22.3 446
FocusVision provides Mintel with
16-19 women 3.2 64 C1 30.9 618
qualitative bulletin board software
C2 20.9 418 'Revelation'. This allows the creation of
DE 25.9 518 Internet-based, ‘virtual’ venues where
20-24 men 4.6 92
participants recruited from Mintel’s online
20-24 women 4.5 89 surveys gather and engage in interactive,
Total 100 2,000
text-based discussions led by Mintel
moderators.
25-34 men 9.3 186 Calculation of socio-economic grade in
25-34 women 9.3 186 Lightspeed surveys Further Analysis

To calculate panellist’s socio-economic Mintel employs numerous quantitative


35-44 men 8.7 174 grade Lightspeed ask a set of screening data analysis techniques to enhance the
questions at registration to their panel. value of our consumer research. The
35-44 women 8.8 177
These questions include employment techniques used vary form one report to
status and profession (both panellists own another. Below describes some of the
and the household’s chief income earner). more commonly used techniques.
45-54 men 9.3 186
Once the panellist has completed these
45-54 women 9.5 190 initial questions they are invited to take Repertoire Analysis
an additional set of follow-up questions
that allow Lightspeed to further fine tune This is used to create consumer groups
55-64 men 7.1 141 their socio-economic grade. Panellists based on reported behaviour or attitudes.
55-64 women 7.3 146 are required to retake the socio-economic Consumer responses of the same value
screening questions once a year to ensure (or list of values) across a list of survey
that any changes in circumstance are items are tallied into a single variable.
65+ men 7.3 147 accounted for. The repertoire variable summarises the
number of occurrences in which the value
65+ women 7.8 155 Lifestage or values appear among a list of survey
items. For example, a repertoire of brand
In addition to an extensive list of purchasing might produce groups of those
Total 100 2,000 respondent demographics, selected that purchase 1-2 brands, 3-4 brands and
lifestage groups are included in Mintel’s 5 or more brands. Each subgroup should
demographic breaks. Definitions of these be large enough (ie N=75+) to analyse.
Mintel also sets quotas on region and groups can be found below;
socio-economic group. Specific quotas Cluster Analysis
for a sample of 2,000 adults aged 16+ are Lifestage definitions
shown below: Under 35’s living Those who are under 35 This technique assigns a set of individual
with parents/ and live in the home of their people in to groups called clusters on the
Region % N family members parents/family members basis of one or more question responses,
Single-person so that respondents within the same
North East 4.1 83 Those who live on their own
household
cluster are in some sense closer or more
North West 11.3 227 Single adult who has a child/
Single-parent similar to one another than to respondents
children of any age living with
Yorkshire & Humberside 8.5 170 family that were grouped into a different cluster.
them all/most of the time
East Midlands 7.4 148 Those who have children of
West Midlands 9.1 182 Dual-parent any age living with them all/ Correspondence Analysis
family most of the time and live with
Greater London 13.7 274 a spouse or partner
This is a statistical visualisation method for
South East/East Anglia 23.7 475 Couples without Those who live with a partner
picturing the associations between rows
children of any and do not have children (of
South West 8.6 173 age any age) (image, attitudes) and columns (brands,
Wales 4.9 98 Those aged 45+ who have products, segments, etc.) of a two-way
Scotland 8.5 170 children aged over 18 who contingency table. It allows us to display
do not live with them (they brand images (and/or consumer attitudes
Empty nesters
also do not have any children
aged 18 and under living with towards brands) related to each brand
Total 100 2,000 them all/most of the time) covered in this survey in a joint space that
is easy to understand. The significance
of the relationship between a brand and
its associated image is measured using

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UK RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 92

the Chi-square test. If two brands have To complement its exclusive consumer extracted from hundreds of publications
similar response patterns regarding their research, Mintel tracks social media data and websites, both British and overseas.
perceived images, they are assigned for inclusion in selected reports. Using All information is cross-referenced for
similar scores on underlying dimensions Infegy’s Atlas software, Mintel analyses immediate access.
and will then be displayed close to each online conversations across a range
other in the perceptual map. of social platforms including Twitter, Data from other published sources are the
consumer forums and the wider web. latest available at the time of writing the
CHAID analysis report.
Atlas provides rich consumer insight via
CHAID (Chi-squared Automatic Interaction the analysis of commentary posted publicly This information is supplemented by
Detection), a type of decision tree analysis, on the internet. The system performs an extensive library of Mintel’s reports
is used to highlight key target groups in a comprehensive and broad collection of produced since 1972 and added to each
sample by identifying which sub-groups data from millions of internet sources, year by the 500+ reports which are
are more likely to show a particular working to ensure a faithful and extensive produced annually.
characteristic. This analysis subdivides sampling of feedback from the widest
the sample into a series of subgroups range of individuals. The dataset contains In addition to in-house sources,
that share similar characteristics towards commentary posted in real time, as well as researchers also occasionally use outside
a specific response variable and allows a substantial archive dating back to 2007. libraries such as the British Library or the
us to identify which combinations have Department of Trade and Industry. Other
the highest response rates for the Trade research information is also gathered from store and
target variable. It is commonly used to exhibition visits across Europe, as well as
understand and visualise the relationship Informal using other databases within the Mintel
between a variable of interest such as Group, such as the Global New Product
“interest in trying a new product” and other Trade research is undertaken for Database (GNPD), which monitors FMCG
characteristics of the sample, such as all reports. This involves contacting sales promotions.
demographic composition. relevant players in the trade, not only to
gain information concerning their own All analysts have access to Mintel’s Market
Key Driver Analysis operations, but also to obtain explanations Size and Macroeconomic Databases –
and views of the strategic issues pertinent a database containing many areas of
Key driver analysis can be a useful tool to the market being researched. consumer spending and retail sales as
in helping to prioritise focus between well as macroeconomic and demographic
different factors which may impact key Formal factors which impinge on consumer
performance indicators (eg satisfaction, spending patterns, going back some 20
likelihood to switch providers, likelihood Internally, Mintel’s analysts undertake years.
to recommend a brand, etc). Using extensive trade interviews with selected
correlations analysis or regression analysis key experts in the field for the majority of The database is used in conjunction with
we can get an understanding of which reports. The purpose of these interviews an SPSS forecasting program which uses
factors or attributes of a market have is to assess key issues in the market weighted historical correlations of market
the strongest association or “link” with a place in order to ensure that any research dynamics, with independent variables, to
positive performance on key performance undertaken takes these into account. produce future spending scenarios.
indicators (KPIs). Hence, we are able to
identify which factors or attributes are In addition, using experienced external Statistical Forecasting
relatively more critical in a market category researchers, trade research is undertaken
compared to others and ensures that for some reports. This takes the form of Statistical modelling
often limited resources can be allocated to full trade interview questionnaires and
focusing on the main market drivers. direct quotes are included in the report and For the majority of reports, Mintel produces
analysed by experts in the field. This gives five-year forecasts based on an advanced
Brand & Social Media Research a valuable insight into a range of trade statistical technique known as ‘multivariate
views of topical issues. time series auto-regression’ using the
Mintel’s brand research includes more statistical software package SPSS.
in-depth knowledge about brands covered Desk research
in relevant markets. Brands are evaluated Historical market size data feeding into
on a number of areas including usage, Mintel has an internal team of market each forecast are collated in Mintel’s own
commitment, dynamism, differentiation, analysts who monitor: government market size database and supplemented
satisfaction, image, recommendation and statistics, consumer and trade association by macro- and socio-economic data
attitudes. When evaluating attitudes, up to statistics, manufacturer sponsored reports, sourced from organisations such as the
ten brand attitude statements are selected annual company reports and accounts, Office for National Statistics, HM Treasury,
and tested, depending on the actual directories, press articles from around the the Bank of England and the Economist
consumer market. world and online databases. The latter are Intelligence Unit.

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UK RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 93

Within the forecasting process, the


model searches for, and analyses
relationships between, actual market
sizes and a selection of key economic and
demographic determinants (independent
variables) in order to identify those
predictors having the most influence on the
market.

Factors used in a forecast are stated in


the relevant report section alongside an
interpretation of their role in explaining the
development in demand for the product or
market in question. developments that occur within 95%, Now, how accurate is this forecast
90%, 70% and 50% probability intervals. and how certain can we be that the
Qualitative insight Statistical processes predict the central temperature on Saturday will indeed be
forecast to fall within the darker shaded 15°C?
At Mintel we understand that historic data area which illustrates 50% probability, ie a
is limited in its capacity to act as the only 5 in 10 chance. To state that the temperature in central
force behind the future state of markets. London on Saturday will rise to exactly
Thus, rich qualitative insights from industry A general conclusion: Based on our 15°C is possible but one can’t be 100%
experts regarding future events that current knowledge of given historic market certain about that fact.
might impact upon various markets play size data as well as projections for key
an invaluable role in our post statistical macro- and socio-economic measures To say the temperature on Saturday will
modeling evaluation process. that were used to create the forecast, we be between 13°C and 17°C is a broader
can assume that in 95% of the time the statement and much more probable.
As a result, the Mintel forecast actual market size will fall within the purple
complements a rigorous statistical process shaded fan. In 5% of all cases this model In general, we can say that based on the
with in-depth market knowledge and might not be correct due to random errors existing statistical model, one can be 95%
expertise to allow for additional factors or and the actual market size will fall out of certain that the temperature on Saturday
market conditions outside of the capacity these boundaries. will be between 13°C and 17°C, and
of the statistical forecast. respectively 50% certain it will be between
Weather analogy about 14.5°C and 15.5°C. Again, only
The Mintel fan chart in 5% of all cases this model might not
To illustrate uncertainty in forecasting in be correct due to random errors and the
Forecasts of future economic outcomes an everyday example, let us assume the actual temperature on Saturday will fall out
are always subject to uncertainty. In order following weather forecast was produced of these boundaries and thus will be below
to raise awareness amongst our clients based on the meteorologists’ current 13°C or above 17°C.
and to illustrate this uncertainty, Mintel has knowledge of the previous weather
introduced a new way of displaying market condition during the last few days, (To learn more about uncertainty in
size forecasts in the form of a fan-chart. atmospheric observations, incoming weather forecasts visit: http://research.
weather fronts etc. metoffice.gov.uk/research/nwp/ensemble/
Next to historical market sizes and a uncertainty.html)
current year estimate, the fan chart
illustrates the probability of various
outcomes for the market value/volume
over the next five years.

At a 95% confidence interval, we are


saying that 95 out of 100 times the
forecast will fall within these outer limits,
which we call the best and worst case
forecasts. These, based on the statistically
driven forecast, are the highest (best case)
and lowest (worst case) market sizes the
market is expected to achieve.

Over the next five years, the widening


bands successively show the

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