THE ULTIMATE

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
# p r o d u c t s SKINCARE /

Why choose us?

With so many training courses out there, it’s hard to choose the
# t r e a t m e n t s
right one for you. I’ve done countless ones myself and decided
to bring together my own comprehensive guide full of
knowledge and experience all in one place for the skincare
beginner.
This guide is designed for those who maybe already do basic
# c r e a t e d

skincare treatments and want to expand their knowledge, those

who are maybe thinking of expanding into skincare and want
more info or even for those who just find skincare fascinating
b y

and want to expand their own knowledge on the subject for

personal reasons to improve their own skin health!
Whatever the reason, you’ll find the guide simple to use in
clearly laid out sections and in terms anyone can understand.
We thank you for purchasing our Ultimate Beginners Guide to
Skincare and hope you enjoy!
INDEX /

RETINOL / PAGE 1 ALOE-VERA / PAGE 10

VITAMIN C / PAGE 2 SKIN BARRIER / PAGE 11 & 12

VITAMIN E & VITAMIN F / PAGE 3 DRY SKIN / PAGE 13, 14 & 15

GREEN TEA & COPPER / PAGE 4 OILY SKIN / PAGE 16, 17 & 18

NIACINAMIDEA / PAGE 5 NORMAL/COMBINATION SKIN / PAGE 19, 20 & 21

ZINC OXIDE / PAGE 6 SENSITIVE SKIN / PAGE 22, 23 & 24

ALPHA-ARBUTIN & CAFFEINE / PAGE 7 ROSACEA / PAGE 25 & 26

SQUALENE & MARULA OIL / PAGE 8 ACNE / PAGE 27 & 28

ALCOHOL / PAGE 9 LARGE PORES / PAGE 29 & 30

INDEX /

DARK EYE CIRCLES / PAGE 31 & 32 PORE & FOLLICLE CONDITONS / PAGE 49 & 50

AGE SPOTS / PAGE 33 & 34 PIGMENTATION CONDITIONS / PAGE 51

PIGMENTATION / PAGE 35 & 36 EMOLLIENTS / PAGE 52 & 53

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SKIN TYPES / PAGE 37 - 46 SENSITIVE SKIN / PAGE 54, 55 & 56

SKIN TYPE VS SKIN CONDITION / PAGE 47 THE AGEING PROCESS / PAGE 57, 58 & 59

SKIN ANALYSIS / PAGE 48 SKIN & THE PH LEVEL / PAGE 60 & 61

 1
Vitamin A (Retinol)

•Most commonly known as Retinol, Retinoic and pro-

retinols
•Occur naturally but can also be made synthetically
•Popular for its’ skin restoring properties which
improves cell communication
•Using a retinol will help with; refining pore size,
reducing dark spots and pigmentation, smoothing
# r e t i n o l wrinkles and improving skin texture
•Packaging should be opaque as retinol breaks down in
sunlight
•High chance of causing irritation, redness and peeling
when first used, so should be used every other night to
start with and in a lower concentration and build up to
daily and to stronger concentrations
•Should not be used during the day as should not be
exposed to the sun when in use

VITAMIN A -
•If used in the sun it can have the opposite effect,
making the skin age faster because skin is more
susceptible to damage in the sun
•So if you’re going on holiday or going to be exposed to

RETINOL / the sun, it can be better to discontinue use 2 weeks prior

and always wear a high SPF of 30 or higher on the face
•Not suitable for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding
 2
Vitamin C

•A potent anti-oxidant that can neutralise free

radicals in the skin
•Aids your skins natural regeneration process which
helps your body to repair damaged skin cells
•Highly acidic which triggers the skin to heal itself
by speeding up the production of collagen and
# v i t a m i n c elastin which keeps skin plump and firm
•By promoting collagen production, vitamin C can
help prevent premature aging of the skin
•It contains a property that inhibits melanin
production, so helps prevent age spots, sun spots
and hyperpigmentation and also fade any that are
already apparent in the skin
•Ascorbic acid is the most effective skincare
ingredient as it’s the most stable form of vitamin C
•Best incorporated into skincare as a serum as
they’re more effective than creams or toners
•Quite a potent ingredient so best to build up

VITAMIN C / tolerance to it to prevent irritation

 3 Vitamin E
• Helps support skin health and cell function
• It’s an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory
properties, making it effective when combating free
radicals produced by the environment
• Beneficial at reducing UV damage to the skin
• Vitamin E levels decrease with age, UV light and
sun exposure
• The anti-inflammatory properties can be soothing
and help to calm the skin
• Also good for hydrating skin and serves and a
moderately effective natural barrier to the sun
• Not advised for use on super sensitive skin, very
oily skin or acne-prone skin
# v i t a m i n e • Best way to use ingredient is in oils and
moisturisers

Vitamin F
•In it’s simplest form, Vitamin is essentially fat, also
known as lipids
•Really important to have lipids present in the
stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) to

VITAMIN E
maintain strong barrier functions to keep skin
healthy
•Vitamin F hydrates, replenishes, high in
antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and restores the

VITAMIN F / skin’s barrier

•Ideal ingredient post skin treatment
•Can benefit all skin types, but particularly acneic
skin because of anti-inflammatory properties
 4 Green Tea
• Rich in antioxidants and nutrients
• Anti-inflammatory which is ideal for sensitive and
irritable skin types
• Cooling and soothing for skin conditions such as
acne, rosacea and psoriasis
• Reduces puffiness, great for reducing puffiness
and dark circles around the eyes
• Anti-bacterial properties helps fight acne causing
bacteria, which the anti-inflammatory properties
significantly reduce the redness
• Tannins in green tea act as an astringent which
reduces the appearance of large pores
• Also effective at treating the excess production of
# g r e e n t e a oil
• Anti-aging properties thanks to its antioxidant
content which fights free radical damage

Copper
•Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects that can
promote wound healing, collagen stimulation and

GREEN TEA attraction of immune cells

•Can improve skin firmness, elasticity and
plumpness

COPPER / •The wound healing properties can help treat acne

scars, wrinkles and marks
•Best used in serums, concentrates and creams as
they’re not as effective in wash off solutions
 5
Niacinamides

• Also known as vitamin B3

• Helps minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores,
improves uneven skin tone, softens fine lines and
wrinkles, diminishes dullness and strengthens a
weakened surface
• Reduces the impact of environmental damage as it
improves the skin’s barrier (the first line of defence)
• Best used in serums, toners and highly
# n i a c i n a m i d e s
concentrated leave-on treatments
• Compatible to be used with virtually all other
types of skincare
• Can be tolerated by all skin types even those with
sensitive or rosacea prone skin types
• Renews and restores the surface of the skin against
moisture loss and dehydration by helping skin
improve its’ natural production of skin
strengthening ceremides

NIACINAMIDES /
 6
Zinc Oxide
•Best known for its physical sunscreen properties
that contain a mineral ingredient capable of
protecting the skin from UV rays
•Topical protectant that works as a gentle
astringent with antiseptic action
•Found in medical products like bandages,
ointments, skin protectants and more
# b l a c k •It can diminish the tenderness caused by sunburn
and also gives chapped skin a softer feel
•Great for oil prone skin as it works as an astringent
by preventing excess oil production on the surface
of the skin
•Helps skin to get skins glow back by shrinking
large pores and tightening skin to help conceal
damage
•Effective for acne treatment as it combats skin
irritation and inflammation and helps to regulate
the sebum production
•The better choice SPF for those with sensitive skin,

ZINC OXIDE /
the physical sunscreen is much more gentle than
chemical sunscreens
 7
Alpha-Arbutin
• Best known for skin brightening and improving
uneven skin tones
• A safer choice than hydroquinone as its less
irritating to the skin which makes it a safer choice
for those with sensitive skin
• Arbutin suppresses the enzymes that stimulate the
cells that produce melanin without killing them
completely, which has a milder effect
• This prevents melanin production from the start,
preventing pigmentation
• Arbutin is extracted from Bearberry leaves which
has been proven to be one of the most effective
ingredients when it comes to inhibiting
pigmentation
• Works well on all skin types and skin tones
# c a f f e i n e Caffeine
•Has antioxidant properties that includes phenols
that help to fight free radicals that can lead to skin
damage
•Really effective when applied topically in a mask,
scrub or paste from fresh coffee beans
•A coffee scrub is thought to help fight the
appearance of cellulite by dilating blood vessels

ALPHA-ARBUTIN beneath the skin and improving the blood flow

•When applied topically it can help decrease the
signs of photo-ageing shown as sun spots, redness

CAFFEINE /
and fine lines
•Caffeine can help treat stubborn dark circles under
the eyes. This is due to the caffeine content dilating
blood vessels that contribute to dark circles
 8 Squalene
•Can be used on all skin types as it’s non-
comedogenic
•Squalane can be found naturally in the skin as it’s
produced by our bodies and is a great hydrator
•Can be used to prevent moisture loss through the
dermal layer
•The amount of Squalane decreases as you age
that’s why it’s important to add it back in to our
skincare routine as we get older
•As the body produces this substance anyway, it
readily accepts the oil and even though it’s an oil,
it’ll never feel heavy or greasy on the skin
•It can also help conditions such as acne and
eczema thanks to it’s anti-inflammatory properties

# m a r u l a o i l
Marula Oil
•It has a light texture and a rich moisture content
•Amino acids have hydrating, anti-aging properties
•Fatty acids have emollient and moisturising
benefits
•Antioxidants fight off free radicals and may stave

SQUALENE
off skin damage caused by UV rays
•It is lightweight and is easily absorbed by the skin
•Very effective for dry or ageing skin because it

MARULA OIL /
smooth’s and softens lines and wrinkles, keeping
skin well hydrated and well-nourished
•A good moisturiser for oily skin and treating acne
as its non-greasy
 9 Alcohol

•Alcohol as the main ingredient in skin care is a

problem
•There are ‘bad’ and ‘good’ types of alcohol that are
used in skincare
•‘Bad’ types are SD alcohol, denatured alcohol or
isopropyl alcohol
•These types instantly dry on the skin and degrease
it, and also feel weightless.
•Great appeal for those with oily skin but if any of
those names appear on the first 6 ingredients on an
ingredient label they are very likely to aggravate
and upset the skins balance
•Consequences include dryness, erosion of the
# a l c o h o l surface of the skin, and adds a strain to how the
skin replenishes itself
•‘Good’ types are known as fatty alcohols, these
include cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohol
•These can be used on all skin types as they give a
pleasing texture and keep products stable
•Some say alcohol is good to get ingredients such
as retinol and vitamin C to penetrate more easily.

ALCOHOL /
This only works because the alcohol destroys the
skins barrier, making it easier to penetrate. This is
NOT good for the skins health, so the negatives
outweigh the positives
 10
Aloe Vera
•An amazing ingredient once used by Cleopatra and
is still highly raved about today
•Found in the spiky leaves of the Aloe Vera cactus
are 20 minerals, 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids and
200 plant compounds or phytonutrients
•Benefits include being a potent antioxidant,
boosts the immune system, reduces high blood
# a l o e v e r a pressure and aids digestion
•Aloe vera has a high water content 99.5% which
makes it hydrating, soothing and cooling
•Also an anti-inflammatory that can help skin
conditions such as psoriasis, sunburn, acne, dry
skin and frost-bite

ALOE VERA /
11 Importance of the Barrier Function of the skin and how to protect it

The external structure of the skin plays a vital role in determining your
skin health and appearance.
To simplify the function, think of your skin as a brick wall, the cells are
the bricks and the lipids in between are the mortar. A new wall that is
well cared for and maintained has an even layer of mortar between
the bricks meaning it can block out and prevent anything from
passing through the wall.
An older wall that has been neglected will have crumbly mortar with
gaps that can allow substances to pass through to the other side.
This is exactly how our skin functions. In healthy skin, the intercellular
cement (the mortar) helps bind water between the cells (the bricks) in
the epidermis which makes our skin look smooth and firm and it
maintains our skin health. It blocks out foreign invaders that might try
to pass through and can cause irritation or inflammation.
If our barrier function isn’t working as it should, we can experience
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) which can then dehydrate the skin
and prevents the cells from doing their job. When the barrier function
has been damaged or isn’t working as it should, it is called ‘impaired’.
You may hear people talk about ‘impaired barrier function’ a lot in
skincare and it’s quite easy to see if your barrier function is impaired.
Look out for any of these;

•Dry, flaky skin

# s k i n b a r r i e r
•Redness/Irritation/Inflammation
•Dehydrations
•Itchiness
SKIN
BARRIER /
•Acne flare ups
SKIN BARRIER /

BARRIER
A damaged barrier usually is dehydrated so it cant lock in
the moisture needed, making it easier for irritants and
bacteria to penetrate the skin.
The barrier can be damaged by the following;

SKIN
•Over-exfoliating
•Over use of harsh or alcohol based products
•Pollution and other environmental factors
•Sun exposure
•Genetics
•Ageing

M O R E
The hardest thing will be to figure out what is causing your
issue, have you started using a new product? Try
eliminating products one by one to see if the condition
improves.
To help repair your barrier, look out for products with

` R E A D
descriptions such as ‘skin-restoring’ and avoid products
with sulfates, parabens or alcohols as these ingredients can
worsen the condition.

_
Make sure to use products that will add moisture back into
your skin as the lack of hydration can cause fine lines and
wrinkles. The added moisture should plump your skin back
up again.

12
 DRY SKIN /

How to identify dry skin

•Skins texture feels and looks rough # f l a k y

•Very small, tight pores
•Itching
•Flaky or peeling skin
•Fine lines or broken skin
•Colour looks grey, dull, ashy
•Redness/irritation
•Feeling of tightness after showering or washing
face
# d r y

13
 DRY SKIN /
Causes
Often dry skin is caused by environmental factors but can also be due to the ageing
process. A vast majority of mature skin will exhibit dry symptoms
Can also be caused or aggravated by;
•Cold and windy weather as the temperature and humidity levels drop
•Heat from central heating, log burning fires, space heaters etc these reduce the humidity
and dry out skin
•Hot baths and showers, using water that is too hot for your skin can dry it out and
irritate it
# m a t u r e •Swimming in chlorinated pools
•Harsh soaps and detergents. Products with a heavy alcohol content, sulfates and
parabens can strip the skin of its natural oils
•Other skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or dermatitis can cause dryness

How to help
•Using rich-textured moisturisers as often as needed to keep skin feeling soft and
hydrated
•Avoid over-exfoliation or exfoliating with a product that is too harsh for dry skin
•Keep water at a skin friendly temperature and limit exposure where possible
•Keep skin covered as best possible when outside in cold or windy conditions

14
Ingredients to help
•Hyaluronic Acid
•Ceremides
• PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid)
•Glycolic Acid Daily skincare routine
•Marula Oil
•Urea
•Cleanse
AM •Eye cream
•Hydrating antioxidant serum
Ingredient to avoid •Moisturiser
•SPF
•Sodium lauryl sulfate •Make up (if desired)
•Sodium laureth sulfate
•Ammonium lauryl sulfate •Cleanse
•Soaps such as sodium tallowate or cocoate
•Salicylic acid
PM •Eye cream
•Moisturiser
•Willow bark (the natural version of salicylic acid) •Nightly mask for dry skin if required
•AHA acids

Exfoliating

DRY SKIN / Exfoliation for dry skin should only be carried out if
tolerated at a maximum of 1 to 2 times a month

15
 OILY SKIN /

How to identify oily skin

# l a r g e
•Visible pores p o r e s
•Shiny or thick skin
•Blackheads
•Blemishes

# c l o g g e d

16
 OILY SKIN /
Causes
The body produces a substance called sebum, which is vital for protecting and hydrating
the skin. However for people with oily skin, their body is creating too much sebum which
results in a oily complexion.
As a result of excess sebum, the skin becomes too oily and can cause clogged pores and
acne

# a c n e

How to help

•Washing the skin regularly with a gentle cleanser and warm water
•Don’t use harsh chemicals or products that will strip the skin too much, this will only
cause more of a problem as your body tries to compensate by creating even more oil
•Use a toner with astringent properties such as one with witch hazel in. Witch hazel is an
anti-inflammatory so can help calm acne and breakouts and also reduce the appearance
of large pores
•Use masks containing clay, honey or oatmeal to combat the excess sebum
•Still use a moisturiser, just opt for an oil-free one to prevent the skin feeling greasy

17
Ingredients to help
•Salicylic acid
•Glycolic acid
•Beta-hydroxy acid
•Benzoyl peroxide Daily skincare routine
•Witch hazel
•Tea tree
•Cleanse
•Jojoba oil
AM •Eye cream
•Antioxidant serum
Ingredient to avoid •Moisturiser with SPF
•Make up (if required)
•Coconut oil
•Hazelnut oil
•Camellia oil •Double cleanse
•Sunflower oil
•Mineral oil
PM •Eye cream
•Spot treatments if needed (e.g. retinoid)
•Beeswax •No need for a night cream unless skin feels dry or
•Paraffin
tight
•Lanolin

Exfoliating

OILY SKIN / Exfoliation should be performed at least once or

twice a week.

18
 NORMAL/
COMBINATION SKIN /

How to identify normal/combination skin

•Not too oily or not too dry

•May suffer with excess oil on t-zone
•Fine pores # s m o o t h
•A soft, smooth texture
•No blemishes
•Not prone to sensitivity

# t - z o n e

19
 NORMAL/
COMBINATION SKIN /
Causes
•Normal skin is usually down to good genetics and a good balance between oil
and dryness
•Even normal skin can have problematic areas such as dry cheeks or an oily t-
zone, this is when it can be referred to as combination skin. In this scenario you
would localise the problematic area and apply the knowledge from above to the
specific target area
# b a l a n c e d

How to help

As there’s no real issues with normal skin, the best way to treat it is to devise a
good maintenance routine that works for you. That will usually include a
double cleanse, tone, moisturise and spf daily. Exfoliate once every 2 weeks
and then you can use any specialist serums and moisturisers as appropriate,
i.e. anti-aging creams, retinols etc to keep skin in a good healthy condition.

20
 Ingredients to help

•AHA or BHA chemical exfoliators

•Hyaluronic acid to retain moisture
•Anti-oxidants to help prevent premature aging of the skin Daily skincare routine
•Retinols
•SPF of 30 or above to prevent sun damage
•Cleanse
AM •Eye cream
•Anti-oxidant serum
•Moisturiser with SPF of 30 or above
Ingredient to avoid •Make up (if required)

Products that are aimed at specific skin concerns, i.e. for oily or
dry skin. As these wont be appropriate for normal skin, they can •Double cleanse
upset the PH balance and start to cause issues by stripping the PM •Eye cream
skin or making it too oily. •Moisturiser if needed
•Specific night time products such as retinols etc

Exfoliating

NORMAL/ Exfoliation for normal skin would be around once a

week or once every 2 weeks

COMBINATION SKIN / 21
 SENSITIVE SKIN /

How to identify sensitive skin

•Redness to the skin

•Dry, flaky skin
•Itchiness
•Blisters and bumps
•Burning
•Swelling
•Tenderness
•General sensitivity to beauty products

# r e d n e s s # i t c h i n e s s

22
 SENSITIVE SKIN /
Causes

•Dry skin
•Eczema
•Irritant contact dermatitis
•Allergic contact dermatitis
•Rosacea
•Hives

# c r a c k e d

How to help

•Take shorter showers max 5-10 minutes with cooler water

•Avoid harsh exfoliators and astringents that can strip the skin
•Use gentle fragrance free products as strong perfumes can cause sensitivity
and flare ups
•Avoid products that are heavily fragranced. Instead opt for fragrance free
where possible
•Pat the skin dry after washing instead of rubbing with the towel

23
Ingredients to help
•Hyaluronic acid for its moisturising properties
•Ceremides to help create a barrier to protect the skin
•Aloe vera
•Calendula extract Daily skincare routine
•Chamomile extract
•Shea butter
•Cleanse
•Squalene
•Beeswax AM •Eye cream
•Hydrating serum (if skin is dry)
•Lactic acid
•Moisturiser
•SPF
Ingredient to avoid •Make up (if required)

•Fragrance
•Chemical sunscreen •Cleanse
•Harsh exfoliants PM •Eye cream
•Sodium Lauryl Sulphates •Moisturiser
•Alcohol
•Botanical extracts and essential oils
•Sulphates
Exfoliating

People with sensitive skin should avoid exfoliating

as this almost always aggravates the skin more.

SENSITIVE SKIN / 24
 ROSACEA /
25 What is it?

Rosacea is a chronic condition that causes the blood vessels to dilate causing
the skin to turn red. It most commonly affects the forehead, cheeks, chin and
nose. Along with redness it can also cause pus filled spots that are similar to
acne or small bumps.
People with Rosacea are often self conscious of the condition, so can suffer
mentally as well as physically.
Rosacea usually makes skin sensitive, so it can be sore, feel very hot or
sometimes sting. This is why people with it have to be so careful when
choosing their skin care products.
Rosacea is not contagious and cannot be passed from person to person.

Who is at risk of having it?

It does seem to run in families but there’s still no clear link of how or why this
happens.
In terms of gender, woman, tend to be more likely to develop the condition,
however if males have it then the condition usually is more severe.

What causes it?

It still isn’t fully understood how it’s caused but it seems genetics, immune
system factors and environmental factors can all play a part in it.

# r o s a c e a
ROSACEA / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E
How can you manage it/treat it?

There is no permanent cure for Rosacea, but there are treatments and medications that can be taken to
reduce the appearance and help manage the condition.
-Topical creams can help with the inflammation that would be prescribed by the Doctor
-Oral antibiotics prescribed by the Doctor can help with the inflammation. In more severe cases the
Doctor might advise an oral antibiotic and cream be used together
-Regular LED Mask photofacials can help with the inflammation and redness
-Wearing a high SPF of 30 or above daily to protect the skin from the UVB rays as this can worsen the
problem
-Figuring out what your triggers might be and avoiding them. Almost all cases of Rosacea have triggers
and they’re different for every person. Some common triggers include; stress, anxiety, anger, spicy
foods, acidic foods, saunas, hot baths, humidity and the sun

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Being exposed to the sun which can trigger a reaction or not wearing sunscreen
-Scrubbing the face or exfoliating too often or with a product that is too harsh for the skin
-Perfumed products such as soap, cleansers, toners, moisturisers etc
-Drinking too much alcohol
-Having a bad diet or certain foods that might trigger a reaction for you personally, i.e. too much diary
# i n f l a m m a t i o n

26
 ACNE /
27 What is it?
Acne can be characterised by its’ angry red looking appearance with spots, bumps, cysts
and blackheads. It occurs when hair follicles become blocked with oil and dead skin
cells. It most commonly appears on the face, forehead, chest, upper back and shoulders.

Who is at risk of having it?

Acne can occur to anyone at any age but is most common amongst teenagers due to
excess levels of hormones.
It can present in adults when there’s hormonal changes particularly in women and girls,
or those using certain medications with corticosteroids, androgens or lithium in.
Acne tends to develop in those who have a family history of the condition. So if both
parents suffered with it, the likelihood would be, you will too.
Those who work in greasy or oily workplaces such as a kitchen with fry vats.

What causes it?

There are 4 main factors that cause Acne;
1.Bacteria on the skin
2.Excess oil production
3.Hair follicles clogged by oil and dead skin cells
4.Excess of activity by hormones (androgens)

You can typically find acne on the face, forehead, chest, upper back and shoulders as this
is where you have the most oil glands. The hair follicles are connected to the oil glands.
Acne can present itself as a blackhead, which is when the pore is congested with bacteria
and oil and turns brown when it is exposed to air.
It might show as a whitehead which is when the follicle wall bulges to create a whitehead.
Or the classic pimple which is a raised red spot with a white filled centre. This happens
# a c n e when hair follicles become inflamed or infected with bacteria.
ACNE / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E
How can you manage it/treat it?

-If you still want to wear make up, opt for an oil free version (a noncomedogenic) that wont clog your
pores or cause excess oil
-Keep skin clean but don’t over-do the products. Using products that are too harsh for the skin will strip
all of the oil and actually cause your skin to start producing even more oil as a result
-Don’t over exfoliate, once or twice a week is ample and make sure you’re using an exfoliant that is
suitable for your skin
-It’s always worth a trip to the Doctor or Dermatologist to see if oral or topical medication can help with
the inflammation and to prevent any scarring from spots
-Always remove make up properly and double cleanse to ensure there is no dirty film of make up left on
overnight

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Diet can sometimes have an effect in acne sufferers. Acne has been linked to foods that are
carbohydrate-rich such as bread, bagels and chips
-Sadly chocolate is also believed to make acne symptoms worse too
-Although stress doesn’t cause acne, it can make symptoms worse if you already have them
-Certain medications containing ingredients such as corticosteroids, testosterone or lithium
# i n f l a m m a t i o n

28
 LARGE PORES /
29 What is it?

Everyone is covered in tiny hairs that cover the whole of the skin, apart from the palms
of your hands or soles of your feet. These tiny hairs all produce a product called sebum
(an oil) that is released from the sebaceous gland. The amount of sebum produced is
largely dependent on the individual and this usually determines your skin type.
Sitting at the opening of the hair follicle, is a pore where the sebum is released from.
People with large pores tend to have oily skin, while those with small pores will have dry
skin.

Who is at risk of having it?

Those with oily skin will have the largest and most visible pores of any skin type

What causes it?

People get oily skin because the hair follicle is producing too much sebum, this is usually
down to genetics, hormones or sometimes medication.
The oil that collects in the pore can combine with dirt or make up on a persons skin and
clog the pore and this is what makes it look bigger than it actually is.
If the blockage isn’t cleared then it can form a pimple at the head of the hair follicle on
the skins surface.
If a person is suffering with a lack of elasticity in the skin, this can make pores appear
bigger.

# a c n e
LARGE PORES / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E
How can you manage it/treat it?

Unfortunately it’s impossible to get rid of large pores, however they can be managed with a skin care
regime and aesthetic treatments to help minimise their appearance.
-Washing the face every morning and every evening with a cleanser and warm water. This is important
even if you don’t wear make up as dirt and grime can still gather on the skin during the day
-Using a gel based cleanser as this can help clear out the pores and not leave any residue behind on the
skin
-Exfoliating once or twice a week if you have oily skin. This removes dirt, dead skin cells and excess oil
-Using an appropriate moisturiser for your skin. Using a moisturiser with the right ingredients for your
skin can help the sebum penetrate deeper into the skin rather than sitting on the skins surface
-Using a clay mask once or twice a week can help remove the oil from the pores and shrink them
-Microneedling and chemical peels done in an aesthetic practice can help reduce the appearance of
pores

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Using oil based products. Because the skin already has so much oil, using oil-based products will
overload the skin
-Over exfoliating can dry the skin out and make pores seem larger Exfoliating should be done no more
than twice a week
-Sleeping in your make up or not removing it correctly

# l a r g e p o r e s

30
 DARK EYE CIRCLES /
31 What is it?
Dark circles under the eyes can be caused by a number of things. Generally dark circles
are accompanied by eye bags and can make a persons eyes look tired and puffy, and can
make you look older than you are.

Who is at risk of having it?

-Age. As we age the skin gets thinner especially under the eyes
-Those who are subjected to eye strain either from working on a computer or a job
where you are straining the eyes on a regular basis
-Those with allergies
-People with dehydrated skin
-Those who are genetically disposed to dark eyes, i.e. where it runs in the family
-Sun overexposure

What causes it?

-As we age we lose the fat and collagen in the skin that is vital for skin to maintain
elasticity, pair that with the skin getting thinner and it allows for darker blood vessels
below the surface of the skin under the eye to show through easier
-Eye strain can have an impact too. When your eyes are strained from staring at a
computer screen or watching the television, the blood vessels around the eyes begin to
enlarge and can show through the thin skin under the eyes
-Allergies can make the eyes sore, red and puffy, but what it also does is dilates the blood
vessels as a histamine response to the foreign body as a defence. When you have allergies
the itchiness and soreness can also make you rub your eyes in turn making them more
sore and dilating the blood vessels even more
-Dehydration can play a big part for most people. When the skin is dehydrated it looks
dull and can make eyes look sunken
-Genetics, dark under eyes can form at a young age if it runs in the family. The individual
# e y e b a g s may find it improves or gets worse as they age
DARK EYE CIRCLES / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E
How can you manage it/treat it?
Home remedies may be able to improve the appearance but it largely depends on the reason you’ve
got dark under eyes in the first place.
-Those who are dehydrated, the solution is simple - up your water intake to the recommended amount
to see improvement
-If it’s due to fatigue then try to improve your amount of sleep to at least 8 hours a night
-Using a cold compress like a wet flannel or washcloth wrapped around ice cubes laid over the eyes for
20 minutes can help shrink dilated blood vessels and reduce puffiness under the eyes
-Keep your head elevated during sleep. Sleeping without a pillow or a thin pillow can lead to fluid
pooling and gathering under the eye which makes them look puffy and swollen
-Soaking them with teabags. Tea contains caffeine and antioxidants that stimulates blood circulation,
shrink dilated blood vessels and reduce liquid retention under the eyes. Soak 2 black or green tea bags
in boiling water for 5 minutes, remove and chill in the refrigerator for 20 minutes before putting on
closed eyes for 10-20 minutes
-Make up can help camouflage the appearance of dark circles if you’re not able to reduce with any of
the above techniques

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Lack of sleep
-Allergic reaction
-Not drinking enough water

# d a r k e y e s

32
 AGE SPOTS /
33 What is it?
-Age spots can be most commonly seen on sun exposed areas such as the face,
décolletage, forearms, upper back and hands. They are flat brown, grey or black spots
on the skin. They can also be known as liver spots, senile lentigo, solar lentigines or sun
spots

Who is at risk of having it?

-Those over the age of 40
-Those with fair skin
-Those who’ve had a frequent history of sun exposure
-Those who’ve frequently used tanning beds

What causes it?

It’s not 100% confirmed why age spots form but we do know they form as a result of
excess melanin or skin pigment in the skin.
Exposure to UV rays is the most possible cause.

# a g e s p o t s
AGE SPOTS / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E

How can you manage it/treat it?

-To prevent more age spots, limit exposure to UV rays including sun bathing and use of tanning beds
-If you do need to be outside in the sun, using a higher SPF to protect the skin
-Doctors can sometimes prescribe a medication that bleaches the skin, this helps to fade age spots
-Intense pulsed light treatment can help to breakup the build up of melanin through light waves that
penetrate through the skin
-Chemical peels remove the outer layer of skin in turn helping to fade the appearance of age spots
-Dermabrasion works similar to a chemical peel by sloughing off dead skin cells, helping to lighten the
age spots

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Having one of the above treatments and then going back into the sun/UV exposure. One the outer
layer of dead skin has been removed it must be protected by a high SPF to prevent further damage and
more age spots

# a g e s p o t s

34
 PIGMENTATION /
35 What is it?
-Hyperpigmentation is the over production of melanin in the skin which can then cause
darker or brown patches over the skin. They can develop anywhere on the body as a
response to a number of causes.

Who is at risk of having it?

-Women are more likely to develop hyperpigmentation due to hormones changes and
reasons as this can have an effect on the amount of melanin produced in the skin
-Those who are frequently exposed to UV rays or work outdoors
-Those taking certain medications
-After an injury a person can suffer with post inflammatory pigmentation

What causes it?

-For women, Melasma is one of the most common reasons they suffer with pigmentation.
Melasma occurs due to hormonal changes, this usually happens during pregnancy where
the individual can suffer with dark or brown patches on the face or on the stomach
-The oral contraceptive can alter a females hormonal balance and can trigger
pigmentation
-Sun spots occur due to age and over exposure to UV rays over a period of time
-Post inflammatory response to a wound or change in the skin. This could be after a flare
up of acne or eczema. Once the acne or eczema has gone, it can leave behind a dark
patch where it was
Some medications such as chemotherapy drugs can also cause hyperpigmentation as a
# m e l a s m a side effect
 PIGMENTATION / T H E U L T I M A T E

I N S K I N C A R E

How can you manage it/treat it?

-Using a high SPF to prevent any further damage is usually the first step
-Retinols used as a night cream can help lighten the pigmentation
-Intense pulsed light treatment can help to breakup the build up of melanin through light waves that
penetrate through the skin
-Chemical peels remove the outer layer of skin in turn helping to fade the appearance of pigmentation
-Dermabrasion works similar to a chemical peel by sloughing off dead skin cells, helping to lighten the
pigmentation

Is there anything that can make it worse?

-Having one of the above treatments and then going back into the sun/UV exposure. One the outer
layer of dead skin has been removed it must be protected by a high SPF to prevent further damage and
more pigmentation

# p o s t
i n f l a m m a t o r y

36
 37
OILY SKIN/

Step 1 - Cleanse

1.Dermogenera - Exfoliate Cleanse £44

2.Temple Spa – Way To Go £21
3.Vitage - Revitalising Daily Cleanse £24
4.Clinicare – Concentrated Cleansing Foam £18.50

Step 2 - Toner

1.Temple Spa – Toning Essence £16

2.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Liquid Moisturiser £20.50

Step 3 - Eye Cream

1.Dermogenera – Repair Eye Cream £49

2.Temple Spa – Windows of the Soul £30
3.Vitage – Age Defence Firming Eye Serum £36
4.Clinicare – Lip & Eye Renewal Cream £39
 38
OILY SKIN/
Step 4 - Serum
1.Dermogenera – Hyaluronic HA5 Serum £49
2.Temple Spa – Be Clear £40
3.Vitage – Correct and Perfect Skin Serum £21
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Serum £33

Step 5 - Moisturise
1.Dermogenera – Repair Hydrate £62
2.Temple Spa – Moisture Matte £38
3.Vitage – Skin Calming Aloe Gel £14
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Essence £38

Step 6 - SPF
1.Dermogenera – Protect SPF 30 £52
2.Temple Spa – Life Defence SPF30 £38
3.Vitage – Skin Defence SPF30 £26
4.Clinicare – Sun Shield Cream SPF30 £23
5.Clinicare – Dermo Corrective Cream SPF50 (with
self adjusting pigments to provide light cover) £44

Additional products to be used weekly

1.Temple Spa – Purification Deep Cleansing Mask

£28
2.Vitage – Co2 Micro Peel £29
3.Clinicare – EGF Pure Mask £16
 39
DRY SKIN/

Step 1 - Cleanse
1.Dermogenera - Gentle Cleanse £44
2.Temple Spa – Be Gone £21
3.Vitage - Revitalising Daily Cleanse £24
4.Clinicare – Concentrated Cleansing Foam £18.50

Step 2 - Toner

1.Temple Spa – Toning Essence £16

2.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Liquid Moisturiser £20.50

Step 3 - Eye Cream

1.Dermogenera – Repair Eye Cream £49

2.Temple Spa – Windows of the Soul £30
3.Vitage – Age Defence Firming Eye Serum £36
4.Clinicare – Lip & Eye Renewal Cream £39
 40
DRY SKIN/
Step 4 - Serum
1.Dermogenera – Vitamin C Serum £65
2.Temple Spa – Be Firm £40
3.Vitage – Vitamin C Tightening Serum £39
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Serum £33

Step 5 - Moisturise
1.Dermogenera – Repair Super Hydrate £62
2.Temple Spa – Double Cream £38
3.Vitage – Advanced Moisture Boost £39
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Essence £38

Step 6 - SPF
1.Dermogenera – Protect SPF 30 £52
2.Temple Spa – Life Defence SPF30 £38
3.Vitage – Skin Defence SPF30 £26
4.Clinicare – Sun Shield Cream SPF30 £23
5.Clinicare – Dermo Corrective Cream SPF50 (with
self adjusting pigments to provide light cover) £44

Additional products to be used weekly

1.Temple Spa – Quench Mask £28

2.Vitage – Hydrating Mask £22
3.Clinicare – EGF Refresh Mask £16
 41
COMBINATION SKIN/

Step 1 - Cleanse
1.Dermogenera - Exfoliate Cleanse £44
2.Temple Spa – Dual Act £21
3.Vitage - Revitalising Daily Cleanse £24
4.Clinicare – Concentrated Cleansing Foam £18.50

Step 2 - Toner

1.Temple Spa – Toning Essence £16

2.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Liquid Moisturiser £20.50

Step 3 - Eye Cream

1.Dermogenera – Repair Eye Cream £49

2.Temple Spa – Windows of the Soul £30
3.Vitage – Age Defence Firming Eye Serum £36
4.Clinicare – Lip & Eye Renewal Cream £39
 42
COMBINATION SKIN/
Step 4 - Serum
1.Dermogenera – Growth Factor GF4 Serum £46
2.Temple Spa – Be Clear £40
3.Vitage – Correct and perfect Serum £21
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Serum £33

Step 5 - Moisturise
1.Dermogenera – Repair Hydrate £62
2.Temple Spa – Moisture To Go £38
3.Vitage – Skin Calming Aloe Gel £14
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Pure Essence £38

Step 6 - SPF
1.Dermogenera – Protect SPF 30 £52
2.Temple Spa – Life Defence SPF30 £38
3.Vitage – Skin Defence SPF30 £26
4.Clinicare – Sun Shield Cream SPF30 £23
5.Clinicare – Dermo Corrective Cream SPF50 (with
self adjusting pigments to provide light cover) £44

Additional products to be used weekly

1.Temple Spa – The Power Breakfast Mask £28

2.Vitage – CO2 Micro Peel £29
3.Clinicare – EGF Pure Mask £16
 43
NORMAL SKIN/

Step 1 - Cleanse
1.Dermogenera - Gentle Cleanse £44
2.Temple Spa – Good To Go £21
3.Vitage - Revitalising Daily Cleanse £24
4.Clinicare – Concentrated Cleansing Foam £18.50

Step 2 - Toner

1.Temple Spa – Toning Essence £16

2.Clinicare – X3M EGF Glow Liquid Moisturiser £20.50

Step 3 - Eye Cream

1.Dermogenera – Repair Eye Cream £49

2.Temple Spa – Windows of the Soul £30
3.Vitage – Age Defence Firming Eye Serum £36
4.Clinicare – Lip & Eye Renewal Cream £39
 44
NORMAL SKIN/
Step 4 - Serum
1.Dermogenera – Growth Factor GF4 Serum £46
2.Temple Spa – Be Strong £40
3.Vitage – Vitamin C Tightening Serum £39
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Glow Serum £33

Step 5 - Moisturise
1.Dermogenera – Repair Hydrate £62
2.Temple Spa – Moisture To Go £38
3.Vitage – Age Defence Power Skin Repair £49
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Glow Essence £38

Step 6 - SPF
1.Dermogenera – Protect SPF 30 £52
2.Temple Spa – Life Defence SPF30 £38
3.Vitage – Skin Defence SPF30 £26
4.Clinicare – Sun Shield Cream SPF30 £23
5.Clinicare – Dermo Corrective Cream SPF50 (with
self adjusting pigments to provide light cover) £44

Additional products to be used weekly

1.Temple Spa – The Power Breakfast Mask £28

2.Vitage – CO2 Micro Peel £29
3.Clinicare – EGF Glow Mask £16
 45
SENSITIVE SKIN/

Step 1 - Cleanse
1.Dermogenera - Gentle Cleanse £44
2.Temple Spa – Be Gone £21
3.Vitage - Revitalising Daily Cleanse £24
4.Clinicare – Concentrated Cleansing Foam £18.50

Step 2 - Toner

1.Temple Spa – Toning Essence £16

2.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Liquid Moisturiser £20.50

Step 3 - Eye Cream

1.Dermogenera – Repair Eye Cream £49

2.Temple Spa – Windows of the Soul £30
3.Vitage – Age Defence Firming Eye Serum £36
4.Clinicare – Lip & Eye Renewal Cream £39
 46
SENSITIVE SKIN/
Step 4 - Serum
1.Dermogenera – Vitamin C Serum £65
2.Temple Spa – Be Firm £40
3.Vitage – Vitamin C Tightening Serum £39
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Serum £33

Step 5 - Moisturise
1.Dermogenera – Repair Super Hydrate £62
2.Temple Spa – Be Still £38
3.Vitage – Advanced Moisture Boost £39
4.Clinicare – X3M EGF Refresh Essence £38

Step 6 - SPF
1.Dermogenera – Protect SPF 30 £52
2.Temple Spa – Life Defence SPF30 £38
3.Vitage – Skin Defence SPF30 £26
4.Clinicare – Sun Shield Cream SPF30 £23
5.Clinicare – Dermo Corrective Cream SPF50 (with
self adjusting pigments to provide light cover) £44

Additional products to be used weekly

1.Temple Spa – Be Calm Mask £28

2.Vitage – Hydrating Mask £22
3.Clinicare – EGF Refresh Mask £16
 SKIN TYPES
SKIN CONDITIONS
HOW TO ANALYSE /
G u i d e

When we refer to skin types, these usually fall under dry, normal,
combination or oily. A skin type cannot be changed, it is the type of
skin we are born with and no amount of aesthetic treatments or
cream can change that. What aestheticians and creams do, is manage
u l t i m a t e

the skin type and treat the unwanted side effects such as comedones
S k i n c a r e

for those with oily skin or lack of hydration in dry skin.

When we talk about skin conditions this refers to treatable conditions

that can happen across any type of skin. For example any skin type
can get wrinkles, same as you can have oily skin that is dehydrated.
T h e

The reason we need to be proficient in analysing skin and determining

the skin type is to correctly prescribe the product or treatment
recommended to help aid the skin condition. Different products use
difference vehicles (a spreading agent) to deliver ingredients. Using a
vehicle that isn’t appropriate for that skin type can cause more harm
that good. So a client might have an oily skin type but is suffering
from dehydration. Using an emollient would help the dehydration but
there’s 3 different types of emollients you can choose from (see more
in the emollient section) and selecting the incorrect one for an oily
skin type might correct the dehydration but cause comedones and

47 clogged pores as a result.

 1.Cleanse the skin using a mild gentle cleanser that would be
suitable for even the most sensitive of skin to remove any
surface dirt or make up from the client. Don’t using any toner
at this stage because a toner can shrink pores and give a false
analysis
2.Using a mag lamp have a good look at the skin on the face
from top to bottom, taking note of any irregularities or clues
as to the skin type
3.Look specifically at the clients pores. Pore size is a dead
O Skin Type

Normal
Characteristics

Perfectly even pore

distribution
Comments

Very unusual
C
giveaway to a clients skin type as the larger the pore the more
oil a persons skin will produce. The smaller the pore, the less Oily Enlarged pores
throughout the face.
Usually also has many
clogged pores, open or
May be very shiny closed comodones
oil the skin produces so will be drier. For combination skin, with obvious oiliness

you may notice larger pores in the t-zone and smaller pores Dry Very small or invisible May also be
moving out towards the clients ears. Again this tells you the pores dehydrated. Typical in
older skin
client likely has an oily t-zone but drier skin on the rest of her
face. In this instance we would refer to this as Combination- Combination-Oily Larger pores through Very typical skin type
the t-zone (nose, chin especially in clients

N D
dry as there’s a combination of dry and oily skin but the skin is and forehead) with who are younger than
smaller or less visible 40-50 years old
predominately dry. For a client who suffers larger pores in the pores around the
perimeter of the face
t-zone and spreading out across the cheeks, forehead and
chin, but displays dry areas in the perimeter (the very
Combination-Dry Pore structure only Typical in older skin,
outermost of the face) we would consider this to be visible through the especially older
very centre of the face, female clients
Combination-oily as there’s a combination of dry and oily but especially the nose
area. Fine or invisible
the skin is predominately oily. pore structure on the
cheeks and outer
4.Once you’ve established the skin type, start looking at the areas of the face

skin conditions, making a note and asking clients questions

about their skin to determine an effective treatment plan

SKIN ANALYSIS / 48
 Most conditions that arise from pores or follicles can be linked

49 back to those with oily skin as they usually occur from a build
up of excess oil production.
1.Open comedones – when the pore opening has been stretched and has a wide appearance, usually
clogged with dirt and skin debris. More commonly known as a ‘blackhead’


2.Closed comedones – the pore has become completely blocked with oil and is trapped inside the
hair follicle, causing a white bump on the outer surface of the skin. More commonly known as a
‘whitehead’


3.Sebaceous filaments – are often mistaken for blackheads because of their darkened appearance but
they cannot be extracted in the same way. Every hair follicle has a sebaceous filament; this is a
normal function of the skin that carries sebum through the hair follicle to the surface of the skin. They
can be extracted by a professional, however they will always come back as they’re a functioning part
of the skin. The best course of action is to minimise the size of the pore so the sebaceous filament
isn’t as obvious


4.Orange peel texture – large areas of enlarged pores can sometimes resemble that of an orange peel.
Indicative of oily skin


5.Sebaceous hyperplasia – these are shiny bumps on the face caused by the sebaceous glands when
they’ve become enlarged with trapped sebum. The bumps can be yellowish or flesh coloured and can
occur anywhere on the face but most commonly the forehead and nose. They’re painless but their
aesthetic appearance is what usually bothers sufferers. Normally caused by oily skin and over-
exposure to the sun

# c l o s e d c o m e d o n e PORE & FOLLICLE

CONDITIONS /
PORE & FOLLICLE
CONDITIONS / 50 T h e U l t i m a t e

S k i n c a r e G u i d e

1.Papule – usually associated with those who have acne. Papule’s look like red inflamed bumps on the
skin. They happen when there is a high break in the follicle wall


2.Pustule – an inflamed bump on the skin filled with pus. They can be characterised by the white/
yellowish centre and are usually red around the edges. 


3.Ingrown hairs – are usually caused by incorrect methods of shaving or tweezing. The hair either
breaks off or curls back and grows sideways into the follicle wall instead of towards the surface of the
skin. They can sometimes be mistaken for papules or pustules as they also create a bump on the skins
surafce


4.Milia – appears as hard white bumps on the surface of the skin. Can look like a sesame seed and often
appear in clusters around the nose, cheeks and chin. Milia is the build up of keratin under the skin that
becomes trapped. Those who are prone to Milia are encouraged to exfoliate regularly to help release
the keratin


5.Cyst – the result of sebaceous glands becoming blocked and forms a dome like bump on the skin that
can be white or yellowish in colour. These must be referred to a dermatologist to treat and should not
be attempted in a salon


6.Ice pick scars – these are a type of scar left behind from acne, they are thin and flat but go deep into # i n g r o w n h a i r
the skin. Usually caused by severe acne such as cysts and papules that occur deep in your pores
51 Pigmentation issues can affect any skin type and any skin
ethnicity, it’s usually caused by a dysfunction in the
melanocytes where melanin is produced. It can create too
much melanin, which, creates darker patches or not enough
melanin, which, leaves lighter patches on the skin.

1.Hyperpigmentation – is simply the over production of melanin which creates darker patches on the
skin


2.Hypopigmentation – is the opposite to hyperpigmentation where there is a lack of melanin

production and leaves white or lighter patches on the skin


3.Solar lentigines – a patch of darker skin (similar to a large freckle) that are caused by sun/UV
exposure


4.Vitiligo – happens when the melanocytes have been destroyed. These are responsible for creating
the melanin which gives the skin its’ colour. Once they have been destroyed the skin will lose colour
or turn white


5.Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation – this is often seen where acne lesions have healed but leave
behind a dark patch. It can also occur where there has been trauma to the skin such as dermatitis,
infection or burns etc.

# v i t i l i g o PIGMENTATION
CONDITIONS /
Emollients are used on dry and itchy skin as a moisturising
treatment. They do this by creating an effective barrier over
the skin to prevent water and moisture loss, these types are
known as occlusive emollients. They can also attract and hold
moisture in the top layers of the skin, these are known as
humectant emollients. Emollients come in different types to
suit different skin types. Using the wrong emollient for the
wrong skin type can have negative effects like breakouts.
L What type of emollient?

Lotion
What skin type would
they be suitable for?

Normal/oily
Why?

Lotions are the lightest of

the emollient types. The
contain mostly water in
the water to oil ratio
meaning they’re
lightweight and fast
absorbing. They work
well enough to lock in
moisture without leaving
C
You can also have synthetic emollients such as squalene and a greasy residue

mineral oils or natural emollients such as lanolin and coco

butter.
They’re commonly used in the treatment of eczema and Cream Normal/Dry Creams have a fairly even
balance of water and oil

psoriasis and contact dermatitis that cause dry, flaky skin. which makes them more
moisturising than a
lotion but not as heavy or
They’re also good for skin types that are dry or lacking greasy as an ointment

moisture.

O D
They’re very effective for those with a dry skin type because of
Ointments Severely dry or cracked Ointments are known as
the way they keep it smooth, soft and they reduce the skin occlusives because they
trap moisture below the
redness. They’re not so good for oily skin types because they surface of the skin and
they’re thick and greasy.
can cause blocked pores and congested skin, as they can be These would only be
used when skin is

too rich. severely dry and/or

cracked and wouldn’t
mostly only be used at
The 3 types of emollients we’re going to cover are lotions, night time because of
this
creams and ointments and who they are suitable for.

EMOLLIENTS / 52
 53
EMOLLIENTS /

Emollients to look out for in your moisturiser

# e m o l l i e n t s

- Shea butter
- Cocoa butter
- Mineral oil
- Lanolin
- Petrolatum
- Paraffin
- Beeswax
- Squalene
- Coconut, jojoba, sesame seed, almond and other plant oils
- Cetyl alcohol
- Olive oil
- Trithylhexanoin
SENSITIVE SKIN / T h e U l t i m a t e

S k i n c a r e G u i d e
A lot of people think they have sensitive skin because they may have had one bad reaction to a
product in the past, or they were using products that weren’t suitable for their skin type. This isn’t
true sensitive skin and it’s important that as an aesthetician you can separate the 2 and work out
those who do suffer from real sensitive skin.
The first clue is sensitive skin is often thin and fragile in appearance. Those with fair skin, blue
eyes, red hair etc are the most likely candidates to suffer from it, rather than those with darker skin
and darker features.
Another way to test is by pressing gently on the skin and seeing how the skin reacts. In those with
sensitive skin the blood vessels and nerve endings are close to the top of the skin, when pressed
the skin usually turns white as you disperse the blood flow underneath the skin.
The blood vessels and nerve endings being so close under the skin is why scientists think sensitive
skin exists and can be affected by cosmetics and skin care products.
A client with sensitive skin is very likely to suffer from erythema (reddening of the skin), hives (a
raised rash or welts) or even edema (swelling) after having a treatment performed on them. They
may also feel excessive sensitivity such as stinging, tingling, burning and itchiness during or after a
treatment and it’s important this is handled in the correct manner.

When a client has told you they have sensitive skin, before performing a treatment or
recommending a product to them, it’s useful to find out as much information as you can about
their symptoms and why they suspect they have sensitive skin. You might ask questions such as;

-Have they suffered any reactions previously when having a treatment or using a product?
-What happened as a result of that?
-Do they themselves have any inclination what caused it and have they had any issues after this?
-Also ask about allergies to other topical medications, food or ingredients that they know of, as # s e n s i t i v e
these ingredients could be in your skin care

54
 If the issue was an isolated incident and they’ve never
had a reaction before or after then it’s likely they don’t
have sensitive skin, but rather have just suffered from
a reaction at that time and it doesn’t necessarily mean
it would happen again.
For example, a client may say she’s had a chemical
peel off a different aesthetician in the past and then
suffered from dry and sore skin a few days after. This
doesn’t necessarily prove she’s had a reaction to the
chemical peel, it could be that the aesthetician left it
on the skin too long, didn’t remove it properly or used
a product that was too strong for that clients skin. It
could even be the clients’ fault, if she’s not followed
correct aftercare at home following the treatment.
If the clients’ never had any other issues with her skin
barring this, then I would be quite convinced this has
been down to human error rather than sensitive skin if
there aren’t any other obvious signs that we discussed
at the beginning.
However, this isn’t to say continue with the treatment
as normal, instead I would explain to the client what I
suspect but that I would still use products suitable for
sensitive skin for her first treatment with me to
determine myself how her skin reacts to treatment. On
the following treatments if there’s been no issues you
can start adding in or replacing the sensitive products
with those you’d normally use for her skin type.
SENSITIVE SKIN /
55
Another analytic technique is distinguishing
between hereditary sensitive skin and transient
sensitive skin.
‘Hereditary sensitive skin’ is those who have been
born with sensitive skin and will have it through
their lives, it can be managed by proper skin scare,
but it cannot be changed ‘normal’ skin.
A lot of people will suffer ‘Transient sensitive skin’
which is simply sensitive skin that has been caused
by the client using a product or treatment that is
damaging the barrier function and preventing it
from working effectively. This kind of sensitive skin
can be repaired and returned back to a healthy
state once the culprit has been eliminated from use.
For example, people with oily skin will frantically
use products to help clear up excess oil or spots etc.
But by using chemicals that are too harsh or too
frequently instead of helping, you’re actually
stripping the skin of all its’ good oil. If you refer back
to the ‘importance of the barrier function’ section,
you’ll remember that improper treatment of the
barrier function leads to lipids within the
intercellular cement being removed and allowing
irritants in and water out. With this combination of
water loss and irritants being able to penetrate
through the skin, it’s no wonder the skin becomes
dry, itchy, irritated and inflamed. For clients who
this applies to, it’s really worth explaining this to
them that ‘less is more’ and to follow your advice
and guidance to restore the skin back to a healthy
state, which can take some time.
SENSITIVE SKIN /
56 T h e U l t i m a t e

S k i n c a r e G u i d e

As a general guide to treating those with sensitive skin, here’s the things you
should and shouldn’t do;
-Avoid treatments that include facial steamers
-Avoid paraffin, electric heat masks or exothermic mineral type heating masks
-Use non-fragranced products
-Treatments such as microdermabrasion, brushing machines, enzyme treatments
and granular scrubs may be too aggressive
-Avoid use of extremely low pH’s in chemical peels. Generally a pH of 3.5 or above
should be acceptable if the skin isn’t already inflamed. But use with caution and if
in doubt, don’t do it
-Avoid over-drying masks or leaving clay masks on too long
-Avoid essential oils or aromatherapy oils as these are often too stimulating for
sensitive skin
-Extraction must be gentle and brief to avoid causing any excess redness
-Avoid heavily mentholated or alcohol based treatment
-Avoid using isopropyl or SD alcohol containing products
# s e n s i t i v e
 THE AGEING PROCESS /
Ageing of the skin can be broken down into 2 categories. Extrinsic ageing,

G u i d e
which is external factors that have an impact on your skins health i.e.
smoking, sun bathing etc. And intrinsic ageing which, is just the skins
natural ageing progression due to time and also hereditary factors.
Skin naturally ages with time and unfortunately there is no treatment or
cream that can stop that process. However, the way we look after our skin

S k i n c a r e
through means of protection, diet and lifestyle choices can either speed up
the process or slow it down.
Most people will start noticing small changes to their skin as early as their
20’s. Small wrinkles have started to form around the eyes and if you look
closely, most people will have uneven skin tone, where patches of melanin
are either lighter or darker, due to sun exposure. Some people in their

U l t i m a t e
teens may have had acne and that’s left some scarring behind, or scarring
from accidents that happened during childhood.
Now we’ll look further into specific reasons why skin ages and what we
can do as therapists to slow this down for clients and retain good skin
health.

# w r i n k l e s

T h e
Genetics
Things like our skin type and ethnicity has an impact on how we age.
Generally speaking those with fair thinner skin age faster than those with
black or Hispanic skin, which tends to be thicker. This isn’t to say darker
skin wont age, but it will age at a slower pace. This is due to a darker skin
producing more melanin, which provides more protection from the sun
and darker skin is usually thicker so is more robust than thinner and fragile
fair skin.
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58 Gravity
Gravity has an impact on every thing on planet earth and the skin is no exception. Gravity causes sagging
of the skin, which is known clinically as ‘elastosis’. Even a person who takes all the necessary precautions
to take care of the skin and has never had any sun exposure will still be predisposed to skin sagging.
Treatments in salon can help with the appearance of skin sagging, however to completely reverse it, you
would need to undergo plastic surgery to actually remove the excess skin.

Expression lines and wrinkles

This is another intrinsic sign of ageing, we create lines and creases on different parts of our face as a
result of repetitive actions, such as smiling, frowning, scowling which unless we always kept our faces
neutral is pretty impossible to avoid.
There are some actions that cause wrinkles that could be avoided, such as always squinting, whether
that be because you’re out in the sun a lot without the proper eye protection or if you squint at a
computer screen or television. This causes what most people know as ‘crows feet’ around the eyes.
Another repetitive action that causes wrinkles around the mouth is smoking. Coupled with the fact that
smoking creates an abundance of free radicals which are already terrible for the skin, attacking it and
preventing collagen production, this will affect the skin across the whole face.

Fatty deposits and muscles decrease under the skin

Naturally over time the fat tissue under our skin breaks down with age, this takes away the cushioning
and support under the skin that provides plump, healthy looking skin.
The skin is pushed and pulled over time stretching it out and as our fat tissues decrease, this leaves an
excess of skin to sag.

# e x p r e s s i o n l i n e s
THE AGEING PROCESS /
THE AGEING PROCESS / 59
Diet and exercise
Maintaining a healthy diet and lifestyle can help not only the body and mind but the skin too. When making food choices,
try to avoid fatty, greasy foods, they’re not good for us and can often contribute to breakouts across the skin. Also alcohol
and caffeine can dry out the skin and have adverse effects on it, so limiting your consumptions of these will also help.
Experts believe foods or supplements that contain vitamin C, vitamin E, grapeseed, green tea extract can help protect the
body from free radical damage. And as we know, free radical damage is one of the main causes of premature ageing of the
skin.

Weight gain and weight loss

Those whose weight can fluctuate quite dramatically will notice over time an excess of sagging skin. As we gain weight
rapidly the skin stretches to accommodate this, and when there’s a dramatic weight loss, the fat inside disappears but
leaves the individual with an excess of stretched skin. This can be most dramatically seen around the neck and chin area.

Having a good skincare routine

It goes without saying, those with a good skincare routine will have glowing healthy skin in the present, but this can also
help the future skin and the speed at which we age.
Skin that is kept well hydrated, protected again free radical damage and UV damage from a younger age will stand a better
chance of having nice skin as it moves through life. Prevention is always more effective than cure.

Stress
It’s becoming more apparent with research the effect that stress has on health, nutrition and the body. As an aesthetician
you probably wont be able to offer the client a permanent reduction in stress but services you do # offer
s hsuch
i rastmassage,
aromatherapy treatments and a calming environment can help an individual to unload and unwind if only temporarily. To
alleviate stress in your own life, consider taking up yoga, meditation or a sporting activity such as jogging that releases
# r e l a x
stress hormones. The impact it will have on not only your body but your mental health will be incredible.
 SKIN’S PH LEVEL /
The pH scale ranges for 1-14 with 1 being the most acidic
and 14 being the most alkaline. For good skin health our
skin should sit at a pH level of around 5.5, making it more
on the acidic side. This is because when our skin is more
acidic it can fight off environmental factors such as harmful
microbes and damaging free radicals.

Other factors that can affect the skin’s PH level

# a c i d
• Acne
• Air pollution
• Antibacterial products
• Change in seasons, with different humidity levels
• Cosmetics
• Detergents
• Antibacterial soaps and gels
• Sebum/skin moisture
Sweat

60
•
• Tap water
• Too much sun exposure
• Too frequent washing of your skin
SKIN’S PH LEVEL /
Can you tell from just looking at the skin if it’s too acid or
too alkaline?

The Ultimate Skincare Guide

Yes it is possible to pick up clues from the skins appearance as to
whether it’s tipping the scale to more alkaline. Irritation, dryness,
acne and redness can all be clues that the skins balance is tipping in
the wrong direction. If skin is soft, supple and without dry spots
then its likely you have a balanced pH and your skin and acid
mantle are functioning as they’re supposed to.
When cleansing choosing an acidic cleanser can help clear up
conditions like acne as it’ll bring your pH back down, however using
acidic cleansers on conditions such as eczema or psoriasis can
make them even more acidic and dry them out further. To combat
dry skin conditions, an alkaline cleanser will be more effective to # a c i d i c
move your pH level further up the chart.

To put this in terms of chemical peels and AHA’s and BHA’s –

anything with a pH of around 3.6 or a mineral sunscreen with a level
of 7.5 will disrupt the skin but only temporarily. The skin will start to
balance itself back out after about an hour.
More severe ones with a pH of acid 2.5 or lower or alkaline 8 or
higher will have a greater impact on the skin and it will take longer
to heal itself and return to its’ usual pH. In this time it’s important to
take extra care of the skin and not use these kinds of products or get
these kinds of treatments too often as it can lead to long term
conditions such as eczema, redness, sensitivity or breakouts.
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 T H A N K YO U F O R C O M P L E T I N G

THE ULTIMATE
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
SKINCARE /
C R E A T E D
B Y