Efficient Prong-Setting for an In-Line Bracelet

Knowing efficient setting techniques for multiple round brilliants demonstrates another aspect
of quality in your shop

By Mark and Lainie Mann

This article covers automated setting procedures using Foredom’s AllSet® Master Stone-
Setting Kit. By using this equipment and these procedures, you will increase your setting
efficiency and decrease overall labor while guaranteeing consistent quality. The featured
procedure is efficient to use when setting one or multiple gems in prong settings.

JOB ENVELOPE INSTRUCTIONS: Set 46 matched 3mm round brilliant moissanites in a 14k
white gold in-line bracelet.

1. The featured bracelet

provided by Stuller,
Lafayette, LA, (#BRC12,

800-877-
7777 , www.stuller.com)
holds 46 3mm round
brilliants.

For this demonstration, I’m setting moissanite, created by Charles &

Colvard ( 800-210-4367 , www.moissanite.com).

Moissanite is cut to exacting proportions, making it a good candidate for
automated setting procedures.

2. The bracelet is cast,

assembled and expertly
prefinished. The prongs
are square, sturdy and
sufficient in length. The
first step in the setting
procedure is to make sure
all prongs are spaced
evenly and appropriately.

I want to remove about 40% of the prong thickness to create the bearing
for each stone. To do this, the distance between the prongs should
measure about 2.35mm. In this photo, I’m making a setter’s punch to
reflect this measurement.
3. I insert the setter’s punch in each setting and lightly tap it to spread the
prongs evenly. This procedure is done over the anvil part of my bench
top.

4. Next I use a cup bur to

shape the tops of all
prongs. Notice the prongs
on the left are slightly
rounded and the ones on
the right still have to be
rounded. I hold the
bracelet in my hand for
this procedure.

5. To create the bearing in

each link, I use the
Foredom AllSet and a
non-aggressive tungsten-
vanadium steel setting bur
with a 3/32-in. shank
(page 106 of the current
Stuller tool catalog).

The setting bur measures 2.95mm and is slightly smaller than the stones.
For instructions on preparing and setting-up the AllSet, see Tool Tips
(page 96). The AllSet systematically controls the depth of each bearing
cut, allowing me to work quickly. Note I’m holding the bracelet with my
fingers, allowing each setting to move and align itself as the prongs come
in contact with the guide and bur.
 6. After creating the
bearings in each link, I use
a flat-bottom graver to
remove the flashing of
metal created on the sides
of the prongs.

7. Next I use half-inch,

extra-fine abrasive snap-
on discs to refinish the
sides of the prongs.
Before setting, I prepolish
each link.

8. For setting, I place a

stone in its bearing,
picking it up with a piece
of utility wax. After placing
the stone, I will set it using
a prong pusher.

9. This photo shows the

prong pusher made for
this setting procedure. It’s
modified from a 42 flat-
bottom graver. I created a
notch in the tip of the
graver using a coarse
diamond disc, giving it a
desirable rough surface.
The rough surface inside the notch helps keep the prong pusher from
slipping off the prong when you exert force.
 10. To bend the prongs, I
place the tip of the prong
pusher on the side of the
prong at the height of the
girdle. I raise my elbow
and bend the prerounded
prong over the crown of
the stone. Then I bend the
opposing prong using the
same technique. Next I
bend the opposite two
prongs.
To bend the final prong, I place the pusher on the top of the prong as
shown and rock from side to side. For these steps, I support the link on a
narrow part of my bench pin.

11. I polish and finish the

bracelet. The stones are
level and set at an even
height. I use a cup bur on
the prongs and prefinish
them before creating the
bearings, and I bur each
link with the AllSet.

Photos by Mark and Lainie Mann

Illustrations by Lainie Mann
Visual Communications, Inc. © 2005

This information is provided without warranty, either expressed or implied. The procedures can be harmful if not executed
properly and are undertaken at the reader’s own risk. The author and publisher are not responsible for injuries, losses or
other damages that may result from use of this information.

Professional Setting of Multiple Round Brilliants for an In-Line Bracelet

By Mark B. Mann
A. All gemstones are evenly spaced, are set at equivalent heights and are level.

B. The prongs are shaped evenly.

C. The tops of the prongs are even with the top table of the stones.

D. No more than 40% of each prong is removed.

E. No flashes of metal are left from creating the bearings.

F. There are no visible tool marks.