Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers
Clutch Strip & Clean:
Drill (6.3mm) or grind off the rivet heads with
Dremel, be careful not to damage the plate at this
point. The rivets are countersunk.
With the plate & red gasket removed you can see the
dampers are cracked & have shrunk. Remove the 3
spring loaded thrust pads, gear assy & dampers.
Scrap the dampers. Drill 3mm down the centre of
the remaining rivets approx. 10mm & punch out the
rest with a 4.8mm (3/16”) parallel punch, This
makes it easier to remove them with the punch.
DO NOT DRILL INTO THE ALUMINIUM.
Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014
This is a buffer plate (0.5mm thick) & if its damaged
or breaking up like in the picture, just scrap it, its not
replaceable.
No drilling required as holes are already about
5.1mm, just tap M6x1.0 all the way through.
When the clutch is ready for assembly make sure
everything is cleaned in a high flashpoint solvent
(except dampers & spring loaded tensioners) like
thinners, this is important especially for the screws &
internal threads for the adhesive to stick.
 Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers

Clutch Build:

Clean & inspect everything that’s going to be used

again. New damper rubbers are to be Neoprene or
Viton rubber only.
Other materials break up quickly & damage your
turbo! They cannot handle the high temperatures/oil
acidity etc..
Using a small amount of grease/oil, lightly lubricate
the damper spigots & the holes in the gear assy. to
aid assembly. Partially fit the dampers to the spigots.

Push the gear assy. down & then push the dampers
Put the gear assy. onto the dampers & feed the
down as far as they will go. Dampers will settle down
dampers one at a time into their holes, about half
during use.
way, don’t forget to align the 3 spigots to their
respected holes in the clutch basket.

Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014

 Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers

Make sure the gear assy. is down against the clutch

basket.
Fit the spring loaded thrust pads.

Countersink the holes in the plate (fitted to the clutch

Drill the rear plate holes M6 clearance (6.1mm)
Fit the rear plate & make sure the gap round the
centre is equal. Fit 2 screws to hold the rear plate in
the best position.
basket) so when the screw is tight, the screw head is
<1.5mm high (without red gasket fitted) or <1.1mm
(with red gasket fitted). As a guide countersink
should be around 11mm, this will give a head
height of roughly 1.4mm. Alignment mark the plate to
the casting as the plate was countersunk in that
position.

Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014

 Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers

Check height above

plate with vernier.

See previous panel.

Original rivet head = <1.1mm above plate
Without red gasket = <1.5mm above plate
Red gasket is 0.5mm thick so add this to the height
allowable for the screw head.

1} Lock 2 nuts to give a height of 21mm, (top of head

to front of nut)

2} Cut the screw back to the top of the nut & file flat
using the nut to keep things level.

3} Remove nuts leaving a clean & level screw, & all

the same height.

Remove the primary gear so you can spin the clutch

basket to see if you have got the screw heads down Fit all the washers, needle bearing & nut (tight using
far enough. ratchet is good enough for this) as if you were fitting
the clutch properly, spin the clutch both ways &
using the bearing play make sure there is no
contact between bolt heads & crankcases.

Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014

 Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers
Once your happy the screw heads are clear, remove
the screws one at a time & put a thread locker or
adhesive on the screw & refit to a torque of 7 ft/lb (80
in/lb), turn over the clutch once all screws have been
refitted & stake the ends with a centre punch. Wait
for the thread locker or adhesive to go off & then refit
the primary drive gear & circlip & then the clutch
assy.
Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014
Stake the screws in 2 positions to secure them with a
centre punch, make sure you support the screw head
with a metal block when doing this. As long as the
screw has deformation they are secure. Make sure
the staking is against the clutch basket as if
these were allowed to come loose they might
contact the crankcases due to restricted
clearance.
 Step By Step Guide To
Changing Clutch Dampers

Tooling/Parts Required:

6.3mm drill bit for removing

Rivet heads only.

6.1mm clearance (for M6) drill bit

for rear plate.
Any form of drill. Some form of vibration/heat &
chemical resistant thread locker.

3.0mm drill bit for drilling out the

rivet centres only. 90° countersink drill for
countersinking the rear plate.

No:2 M6 tap & suitable tap wrench.

Centre punch for securing the

A socket head driver that can be
used with a commercial torque
wrench & socket for torquing the
screws.
screws.
2lb hammer & 4.8mm (3/16”)
long punch for the rivet removal.

M6x1.0 Stainless steel countersunk

Screw, 6off required.

Created: 05 June 2014 Updated: 31 December 2014