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Paz

O wlishly
by
Mia
Zamora
Johnson

A n A m i g u r u m i A n g e l P a t t e r n
Sweet little angel!

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No


Derivative Works 3.0 License. To view a copy of this license, please visit
O
by
wlishly

Mia Zamora Johnson


http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/; or, (b) send a letter to Creative
Commons, 543 Howard Street, 5th Floor, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA. owlishly.typepad.com 2008
Materials
•Worsted weight yarn in a flesh color, white, gold & brown
•Size G/4.5mm crochet hook
•Locking stitch markers
•Yarn & embroidery needles
•DMC Embroidery floss in- salmon(3712)
•Set of Craft/Animal eyes 6 mm with safety backing (optional, not rec. for children
under 3) an additional set if you’d like to use them as joints for the arms
•Poly-fil/Wool to stuff doll

Finished Size
Abbreviations
approx. 6 inches tall
beg- Beginning
ch- Chain
Crochet Techniques Needed cont- Continue
•Adjustable ring dc2tog Double Crochet 2
•Increasing and decreasing together
•Treble crochet (a decreasing st)
•GAUGE- none in particular, just be sure that dec- Decrease
you crochet tight enough that the stuffing inc- Increase
will not come out, and that the doll feels hdc- Half double crochet
sturdy. rnd- Round
rep- Repeat
sc- Single Crochet
About the Pattern
sc2tog- Single Crochet 2 together
• Paz is crocheted in continuous spirals without
(a decreasing st)
joining the rounds. You will need a stitch
sl st- Slip Stitch
marker to keep track of where the beginning
of each round starts; move the marker up to st(s)- Stitch(es)
the first stitch of the next round after finishing tr- Treble crochet
the previous one. [ ]- Sets apart a group of
stitches to be repeated as
• When you are changing yarn color, begin the a whole.
sc with the first color. After the yarn over grab
the second color with the hook and bring it
through both loops on the hook to complete hook is positioned is opposite for those of you
the stitch, thus allowing the next stitch to be that are right handed.
entirely the second color.
• The yarns used for this project are listed in the
• Also when you look at the pictures and use Final Notes section on the last page, near the
them as reference, I just want to let you know images if you’re interested in using the same
that I am left handed and so the direction in colors and yarns that made this little girl!
which the rounds are going, and the way the
Pattern

Head
• Reminder- do not join the rounds crocheting will be in a continuous spiral, the rounds will increase
and decrease in increments of 5.

Round 1 In a flesh color, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join, using the
stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the next round ----- 5sts.
Round 2 [2 sc in each st] 5 times ----10 sts.
Round 3 [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 5 times -----15 sts.
Round 4 [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 20 sts.
Round 5 [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 25 sts.
Round 6 [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 30 sts.
Rnds7-12 sc in each st around ----- 30 sts. Also, it’s a good idea to put the eyes in (if you’re
planning on using them) before it gets to tight to insert anything. I put the eyes 5 sts
apart, in Round 10 if you want to replicate the distance that I used.
Round 13 [sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 25 sts.
Round 14 [sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 20 sts.
Round 15 [sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 15 sts. Stuff the head with poly-fil/wool as tightly as
you can get it, since essentially you’re making a ball and won’t be able to stuff again.
Round 16 [sc in next st, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 10 sts.
Round 17 [sc2tog] 5 times ----- 5 sts. Using the yarn and a yarn needle close up the hole by
stitching back and forth across the opening.

Wig cap/Hair
• The wig cap will be crocheted around the head stopping right before you get to the point where
you start decreasing.

Round 1 In brown, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join, using the stitch
marker to mark the first stitch of the next round ---- 5sts.
Round 2 [2 sc in the next st] 5 times ----10 sts.
Round 3 [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 5 times -----15 sts.
Round 4 [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 20 sts.
Round 5 [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 25 sts.
Round 6 [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 5 times ----- 30 sts.
Rnds 7-12 sc in each st around ----- 30 sts. Fasten off and leave a length of remaining yarn to sew
the wig to the head.

Now, cut 10 pieces of brown yarn 8 inches long, and then cut an
additional 10 pieces of yarn 12 inches long. Following the outer
edge of the wig cap and using the 10 pieces 12 inches long,
string each piece through one loop along the outer edge and
making sure each half is equal in length, tie a knot tightly against
the wig cap. Right next to each other, and one right after an-
other. Then, using the next 10 pieces of yarn that are 8 inches
long, string each through every other loop remaining, and tie
them off too.
Pattern

Turn the wig cap inside out and place on the head. Using the length left from Round 12, sew the wig
cap to the head with the strands coming out from between the head and the wig cap. Leave the
for now, and cut a length of brown yarn around 36 inches long and use it to embroider the wig cap
to resemble strands of hair going from the hairline towards the back of the head where the braid will
be. When you have a sufficient amount of hair, tie it off and weave in the remaining yarn, cutting
any long pieces left over.

Now, using all of the strands hanging down around the face, pull them towards the back of the head
and braid them together. Using the gold yarn, strand it around the braid and tie into a bow at the
base.

Halo
•Make an adjustable ring do not tighten it. sc 20 around, slip stitch to join & fasten off
leaving a length of yarn to sew the bottom half of the halo to the back of the head. This
can either be done now, or upon finishing up the rest of the doll.

Body
• After making the two arms, the body is going to be crocheted from the legs all the way up to the
neck.
• Just a note on making the body, you can choose to stuff as instructed, or you can wait until after
crocheting the dress, or rather, skirt part of the dress so that it’s a bit looser and not so difficult to get
the hook into the outer loops of the body where you attach the yarn to create the skirt.

Arms
(make 2)

Round 1 Begin by using the skin colored yarn, make an adjustable ring and
work 6 sc in the ring, do not join, using the stitch marker to mark
the first stitch of the next round ---- 6 sts.
Round 2 [sc, 2 sc in the next st] 3 times ----9 sts.
Round 3 treble crochet in the first st, sc2tog, [sc, sc2tog] 2 times ----- 6 sts.
Change color to white.
Round 4 sc in inner loop only each st around ----- 6 sts.
Rnds 5-8 sc in each st around ----- 6 sts. Fasten off each arm leaving a
length of yarn to sew the arms to the body. Using the gold yarn,
slip stitch in each st around the outer loop of Round 3 to make a
cuff for the sleeve. Put them aside until you’ve finished the body.
Pattern

Legs/Torso
(make 2 legs)

Round 1 Using the white yarn, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join,
using the stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the next rnd ---- 5 sts.
Round 2 2 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts.
Round 3 2 hdc in each of the first 3 sts, sc in last 7 sts ----- 13 sts. Change the color to tan.
Round 4 [dc2tog] 3 times, sc once in the last 7 sts ----- 10 sts.
Rnds 5-8 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts.
Stuff the feet, but not all the way up the legs. Rnd 8 is the END OF THE FIRST LEG, fasten
off & weave in the remaining yarn.
Round 9 Change the yarn to white, join the 2nd leg to the first and sc in each st around both
legs, make sure both feet are facing the same direction ----- 20 sts.
Round 10 2 sc in each of the first 2 sts, sc 16 sts, 2 sc in the last 2 sts ----- 24 st.
Round 11 sc in each st around ----- 24 sts.
Round 12 sc2tog twice, sc 16 sts, sc2tog twice ----- 20 sts.
Rnds 13-14 sc each st around ----- 20 sts.
Round 15 sc in the inside loop only each st around ----- 20 sts.
Round 16 [sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 15 sts. Stuff the body, but not to capacity just yet.
Round 17 sc each st around ----- 15 sts. Change the yarn to tan.
Round 18 sc in inside loop only of each st around ----- 15 sts. Stuff the heck out of the body to finish
it up. Fasten off and leave a length of yarn to sew the body to the head after attaching
the arms.

Dress
•The dress will be crocheted around the body starting at Round
15 of the body.

Round 1 In white, attach yarn to the back of the body in


Round 15, you will sc in each st around ---- 20 sts.
Round 2 [sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times ---- 22 sts.
Round 3 [sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times ----- 24 sts.
Round 4 [sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times ----- 26 sts.
Round 5 [sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times ----- 28 sts.
Round 6 [sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times ----- 30 sts.
Round 7 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 29 sts ----- 31 sts.
Round 8 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 30 sts ----- 32 sts.
Round 9 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 31 sts ----- 33 sts. Change the yarn to gold.
Round 10 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 32 sts ----- 34 sts.
Round 11 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 33 sts ----- 35 sts.
Round 12 sc 2 in the first st, sc in next 34 sts ----- 36 sts. Fasten off and weave in the remaining yarn
to complete the dress.
Pattern

Wings
(make 2)

• Reminder- do not join the rounds crocheting will be in a continuous spiral, the rounds will increase
and decrease in increments of 5.
• The wings will be started in 3 separate parts and then joined together to make one complete wing.

Part 1
Round 1 In the white yarn, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join, using
the stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the next round ---- 5sts.
Round 2 2 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts.
Rnds 3&4 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts. Fasten off and weave in the remaining yarn.

Part 2
Round 1 In the white yarn, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join, using
the stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the next round ---- 5sts.
Round 2 2 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts.
Round 3 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts. Fasten off and weave in the remaining yarn.

Part 3
Round 1 In the white yarn, make an adjustable ring and work 5 sc in the ring, do not join, using
the stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the next round ---- 5sts.
Round 2 2 sc in each st around ----- 10 sts.
Round 3 This Round will attach Parts 1 & 2 together to Part 3.
sc 5, join to Part 2 & sc 5 in Part 2, join to Part 1 & sc 10 (all the way around) in Part 1, re
join to Part 2 & sc 5 in Part 2, and rejoin to Part 3, sc
5 to complete the round ----- 30 sts.
Round 4 sc in next 8 sts, [sc2tog, sc in next st] 5 times, sc in
last 7 sts ----- 25 sts.
Round 5 sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in
last 10 sts ----- 23 sts.
Round 6 sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in
last 8 sts ----- 21 sts.
Round 7 [sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog] 3 times ----- 18 sts.
Round 8 [sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog] 3 times ----- 15 sts.
Round 9 [sc in next st, sc2tog] 5 times ----- 10 sts.
Round 10 [sc2tog] 5 times ----- 5 sts.
Sew the wings together, and then after you put the
head on the body, sew the wings in place on the
back of the body.
Pattern

Final Notes

• At this point if you want jointed arms put a craft eye inside of the arm making sure that it’s poking
out in the right direction to face the body through both the arm and sleeve. Using a yarn needle
and the remaining yarn, pinch the top of the arms together and sew each arm together, then
weave in the end. Decide upon the placement of the arms on the body, and with each arm poke
the part of the craft eye sticking out of the arm and into the body, then with the fastener on the
inside of the body, tighten it as much as you can so that it’s securely attached, but also ensure that
you can still move the arm with ease.
• If you aren’t making a jointed arm, then just pinch each sleeve together and sew it closed, and
then sew the arms to the body wherever you’d like them to be.
• Sew the body to the head, going around until you’re comfortable with the security of the stitching,
when you’ve used up most of the yarn, finish by by inserting the needle through the neck and pull-
ing it out the other side then doing that again and tugging tightly while you snip the remaining yarn
as closely as you can get to the neck, move the head around a bit and the end will work it’s way
back into the body.
• If you haven’t sewn the halo to the head, put it up to the back of her head and figure out where
you want it, and then sew the bottom half of it to the head. It’d also be a good time to embroider
the face and hair if you haven’t done that yet.
• Finally, if you haven’t sewn the wings to the body, you can do it now, just using the remaining yarn
from sewing the wings together to secure it to the back of the doll, a couple of stitches should do it
and then just fasten it and weave in the remaining yarn.
• In case you were wondering, the yarns I used for this project were:
TLC Cotton Plus- Tan for the skin
Lion Brand Glitterspun- Gold for the wings
Lion Brand Lion Wool- Cocoa for the hair
Lion Brand- Wool-Ease- White Frost for the undergarments, dress & shoes
• If you have any questions or suggestions regarding this pattern please email me at
owlishly.designed@gmail.com. To read a bit more about this pattern and all my others, and to find
out where they’re available come visit me at owlishly.typepad.com. I appreciate your support, and
I am glad you like Paz!

Mia Zamora Johnson

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