Journal of Coastal Research Charlottesville, Virginia Winter 1988

Variations in Mean Grain Size as Indicators of Beach

Sediment Movement at Puri and Konarak Beaches, Orissa,
India
o. S. Chauhan," V. K. Verma," and C. Prasad"
a National Institute of b University of Delhi C Garhwal University
Oceanography Delhi 100 007, Sri nagar, U. P. 246 174,
Dona Paula, Goa 403 004, INDIA INDIA
INDIA

ABSTRACT _
CHAUHAN, O. S., VERMA, V. K" and PRASAD, C., 1988. Variations in Mean Grain Size as
.tfllllllll. Indicators of Beach Sediment Movement at Puri and Konarak Beaches, Orissa, India. Journal

eusss
of Coastal Research, 4(1), 27-35. Charlottesville, ISSN 0749-0208.
~ Over a four year period, between 1979 and 1982, mean size variations were studied under
different environmental conditions in 550 sediment samples along and across 10 beach profiles,
~ ~ " 5 each at Puri and Konarak beaches along the coast of Orissa, India. The regular monitoring
c:e:.; iF of the mean size along and across the profiles depicts marked variations in the mean size, asso-
ciated with changes in hydraulic conditions in time and space. The size contours are parallel
to the shore in calm conditions when deposition is prevalent on the beach. Onset of erosion is
marked by a lack of parallelism and the size contours become convex seawards. The spacing
between the size contours also changes with the nature of the movement of the sediments and
is reduced during beach erosion. The variations in the mean size in relation to probable source
of sediments and change in the nature of the different geomorphic processes are delineated.

INDEX WORDS: Beach, beach profiles, coastal geomorphology, coastal sediments, mean grain
size, onshore deposition, shore erosion.

INTRODUCTION time, therefore, may be used to decipher the

Variations in the size parameters of the sed-
iments have been used to decipher the environ-
ment of deposition, e.g. PASSEGA (1957, 1964),
FOLK & WARD (1957), VISHER (1969), and
FRIEDMAN (1961,1967,1979). The beach is a
dynamic accumulation of sediments and the
beach profile results from prevailing hydraulic
conditions and sediment supply. It is generally
the swell type (KOMAR, 1976) under relatively
calm conditions when hydraulic conditions are
conducive for onshore deposition. It changes to
storm type (KOMAR, 1976) under high wave
conditions in relation to wave steepness (HolLo).
The existence of a longshore current, an impor-
tant transporting agent in the littoral zone,
produced by oblique wave approach, also plays
an important role in developing a typical pro-
file. The nature of a beach depends, to a large
extent, upon the magnitude and direction of the
aforesaid parameters and supply of sediments.
The mean size of the sediments at any given
86040 received 10 November 1986. accepted in revision 3 March
1987.
imprints of conditions under which they have
been deposited. The present work is an attempt
to express and discuss the variations in mean
size at Puri and Konarak beaches on the east
coast of India facing the Bay of Bengal (Figure
1) in relation to variations in magnitude and
direction of the dynamic agents and probable
source of sediment for the area.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Ten profiles, five at each beach, were moni-
tored from February 1979 to June 1982. The
samples were collected in February of 1979,
1981 and 1982, April of 1980, September of
1979, 1981 and June of 1982 along and across 5
transect lines, each one km apart. The collec-
tion of samples in February was done to observe
the pattern of sediment distribution on a swell
type profile (KOMAR, 1976) produced by mild
waves and weak longshore currents. The collec-
tion in April represented mild to rough condi-
tions and those collected in June 1982, imme-
diately after a cyclonic storm with very high
28 Chauhan, Verma. and Prasad

Table 1. Graphic measure of the sediments' at Puri and Konarak beaches in different environmental conditions.

Fair Season Rough Season

Konarak Puri Konarak Puri
Mean B HT MT LT B HT LT LT B HT MT LT B HT MT LT
< 1 25
1 to 1.5 62.5 50 100 75
1.5 to 2.0 27 54.5 39.5 71.4 16.6 57.1 16.6 28.5
2.0 to 2.5 10.5 45.5 50 23.1 10.5 21.4 33.3 50 42.9 83.3 66.6 42.8 50
2.5 to 3.0 50 76.9 7.1 50 50 33.4 28.5 50 60
3.0 to 3.5 40
Inclusive Graphic Standard Deviation
< 0.35 9 6.6 7.7 10
0.35 to 0.5 12.5 45.5 76.6 61.5 14.2 63.3 70 44.4 28.5 16.6 22.2 75 28.5
0.5 to 0.71 87.5 45.5 16.6 30.8 87.5 57.1 36.6 20 63.6 71.4 66.6 77.7 25 57.1 100 100
0.71 to 1.00 12.5 28.5 16.6 14.2
Inclusive Graphic Skewness
+ 1.0 to + 0.30 12.5 12.5 7.1
+ 0.30 to + 0.10 25 45.5 33.3 30.7 37.5 35.7 25 22.2 42.8
+0.10to-0.l0 50 45.5 66.6 46.1 12.5 35.7 50 30 11.1 28.5 16.6 14.3 22.2
- 0.10 to - 0.30 12.5 9 23.7 37.5 21.4 25 60 66.6 28.5 33.3 33.3 90 71.4 66.6 55.5
- 0.30 to -1.00 10 50 66.6 10 14.3 33.3 22.2
Graphic Kurtosis
< 0.67 25
0.67 to 0.90 12.5 27.3 16.6 23.1 37.5 7.1 41.6 90 28.5
0.90 to 1.11 37.5 27.2 33.3 37.4 25.0 7.1 50.0 10 44.4 28.5 25
loll to 1.50 12.5 45.5 50 38.4 12.5 57.] 8.3 11.1 42.8 16.6 75 28.5 50 66.6
1.50 to 3.00 l2.5 25 28.5 44.4 28.5 83.3 100 50 33.3
< 3.0
Biomodality 32 34 20 69.5 25 20 30 40 40 25 26 20 25 20 33 36
Polymodality 68 64 80 30.5 75 80 70 60 60 75 74 80 75 80 67 64
Silt contents
7.2 8.2 1.2 3.2 .39 .56 .6 .78

1Percentage Frequency Distribution

B = Back Shore
HT = High Tide Level
MT = Mid Tide Level
HT = High Tide Level

waves and strong longshore currents, repre-

sented the pattern in extreme. The samples of
Sn.J(N' AREA
September are also from a storm profile, a prod-
INDIA" uct of high waves and strong longshore currents
associated with the SW monsoon in the area.
Constant volume samples were collected during
;, low tide, along and across fixed lines extending
i..
I
from backshore to slightly below low tide level,
i
( ...,...... _ L ,"l using a teflon screw-in corer (Length 30 cm ,
~, v .,j
I diameter 8 cm ). The collected sediments were
washed, oven dried at 70°C reduced to 50 g by
the method of coning and quartering, and
sieved at 0.25 phi interval using a RO-Tap sieve
shaker. A. S. T. M. 20 em diameter sieves were
f.,· .~ used applying standard sieving methods
Figure 1. Location map of the study area. (FOLK, 1966). Various size measures were com-
puted on a Norsk Data 520 computer using the

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4, No.1, 1988

 Beach Sediment Movement in Orissa, India 29

~ROFLE~
I 2 3 4 .~ ~PROFrLEN~
I 2 ~ 4 5
1.00 I.OS ,.0' 1-" I-ra
0-.' "0 o·e.
"26~~I'U
0'97 0- • •

1·21 ----1·2~
1-2 .'4
I·.) 1-.) I.ZlI
'·8-------
1-4' .~'.7~I,5'
""--~~', ~.o~
I·~I eO--------
._., ~ •• ao
_ _ _ _ '.11 1 ··----------.e,2~2.Ze
~'7"'--- 1.0 2·3'

~~.o---
/ ~ 2.'0 ,.10 1·10

'2~I'SO

~
2 2,30 Z·30
2·10
&0~ J .a.
2-17 _ _ _ _

~2~~
12:1
~
1150.
~ 1,',
];0-

A B

~ROFILEN~
I 2 3 4 ~

'.10 I·j
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _,-ZfJ'""

I-,e ~"8""c>
HZ 1·1
--
I-'e

'··11
~-----'=i2
1-'1 1'13 '-11

1·31

~ 1·8&
1-.2
1·:1.
l·e8 ~1.8~'·5Z
l.e~ l-e4 .·e. "1'
---~2'O--- ~'O~ ,' ••
2'" .-2.2~" - - - - - - - - -
2·20 2~--:sO----2-.'~O- 2-'2 ~2-IS
2.20 ~'2~2'20 .2 .52 2"1 2'112

2.Z 0
2·40 2-41 ~4' '
~24'
----- 2· " n
-2·- 53
--2-.5-)---2-- 2.53
a- 4' 2'43
2,.3 2,'5 2·.3 Z-53
2' , . 2· 52 2·.3
2-. 2·5
2. " l

2·re

~
......... 2.71 2-7
'-7~~'7 1252ao", ... 2' .0
2-71 ~ - ... 2.1'

c o
Figure 2. Spatial distribution of mean size at Puri: (a) in February 1979, (b) in September 1979, (c) in April 1980 and (d) in
February 1981.

formulae of FOLK & WARD (1957). Due to high RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
correlation between moment and graphic mean
(SEVON, 1968; HASHIMI, 1981, CHAUHAN The study shows wide variations in the mean
and CHAUBEY, 1986), only the graphic mean size in time and space which is due to the
was used following the formula of FOLK and change in the environment of deposition. The
WARD (1957). observed changes are reported in what follows.
The littoral current patterns were obtained in At Puri, it is observed that the sediments in
February 1981, 1982, September 1981, and general fall in the sand grade (0.90 to 2.84 phi).
June 1982 following the methods of VEER- The observed size is coarser at the backshore
AYYA et al. (1981). The wave parameters were and becomes progressively finer towards off-
obtained from daily weather reports published shore in the inshore region. The sediments are
by the Indian Meteorological Department. The generally well to moderately sorted, negatively
data are statistically analysed and presented. skewed and mesokurtic (Table 1). The varia-

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4, No.1, 1988

30 Chauhan, Verma, and Prasad

_______ P RO FILE NO. _ _ _ _ _ _

.------- 2 3 4 ------15
',0 0-.' I 1·01 0·.' I·'
------1-215--------
/ I· 42 1-15 o.l'". '·4.

~1'715~1'. I·Z'
~~ 2 ' O_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 1·3. 1"2

~ 2 I :n: 20 l·IO ~2'45 --.----"50 -----......

~2~~fjfj_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1"5~
~ :l·34 / 2'~O __ ~1'1S- ~. '·n --............I.n
~~""3
---: ' 0 - -
~~, ..
z.z.
~ 2·7
Z.IO 2·1

~
'&3 2'1~~:l"~
'. .I .• .,
m
Y
2.&
Z·5' z.a.
2·" 2.12
2·110 Z.....m 2"
2 7. ·n 2·7
Z.S6 .74
~2-75 :l·.e :.~~ ~'715 z.n
/" • 2,'2
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2·3 1t'33~
z-'n z·. 2,'0
z- 3. Z,'7 250 ~OO III

Z.,. ~
2·33
Z·'
,·0. _--.. -------...... I:r", Z· ...

A B

.i-> PROFILE NO. ___

I ---------- 2 3 4 fj
I "2~'O

--1·!S°---.J.:_.......Oo....-_ _
Hie

"7!S~'.,.
____ -:,~05 I,"

2.30 2·311 ____

2· 31
~ 2 ' 5 _

.m
2- 72 2'''3~
'2'7& -=-=-./

c
Figure 3. Spatial distribution of mean size at Puri: (a) in September 1981, (b) in February 1982, and (el in June 1982.

tions in the mean size across the beach from tember 1979, 1981, and June 1982 compared to
profile 1 to 5 in time and space is presented in February 1979, 1981, 1982, and April 1980.
Figures 2 and 3. The various graphic measures of Konarak
On the basis of the spatial distribution of the beach are presented in Table 2. Lateral varia-
mean size at Puri beach in time and space, (Fig- tions in mean grain size during the period of
ures 2 and 3) it is observed that mean size observation are presented in Figures 4 and 5.
becomes finer and finer towards profile 5 in Feb- The spatial distribution of the sediments at
ruary 1979, 1981, 1982, and April 1980, i.e. in Konarak shows that the sediments of profile 5
fair weather seasons. are finer than those of profile 1. The Konarak
The mean size also becomes finer between sediments are finer than at Puri. The mean size
February 1979 to 1982. It was 1 to 2.66 phi in at Konarak beach also gets coarser in the mon-
1979 and 1.20 to 2.84 phi in 1982. The obser- soon seasons, i.e. in September 1979,1981, and
vations also indicate that the mean size of the in June 1982. The sediments become finer from
sediments increased during monsoon in Sep- 1.35 to 2.74 in February 1979 to 1.40 to 2.80 phi

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4, No.1, 1988

 Beach Sediment Movement in Orissa, India
Table 2. Wave height parameters for the study area.
Period
1.0 1.5
December 1978- 65.00lJt, 25.00%
February 1979
July 1979-September 23.80%
1979
February 1980-April 88.85%
1980
December 1980- 66.669r 25.26%
February 1981
July 1981-September 15.00% 15.00%
1981
December 1981- 62.90% 25.00%
February 1982
May 1982-June 1982 10.00% 10.00%
Table 2. Chauhan et al 1986
in February 1982. However, the sediments in
April 1980 were the finest.
The patterns of the spatial distribution of the
mean size of the sediments at Puri and Konarak
(Figures 2 to 4) show that size contours are gen-
erally parallel or convex to the shore in the fair
weather season, i.e. in Februarv 1979, 1981,
1982, and April 1980.
Under these conditions the size con tours are
widely spaced. The picture modifies as condi-
tions change from calm to rough seas. Mean size
increases and spacing between the contours is
reduced. Size contours loose their parallelism
and become convex towards offshore in the fore-
shore and inshore regions. Closing of the con-
tours is also observed. The occurrence of a
coarser sediment band is observed in the
inshore region having mean sizes of 2.36 2.33,
and 2.51 phi at Puri and 2.33, 2.40 and 2.55 phi
at Konarak in September 1979, 1981, and June
1982, respectively.
On the basis of the above observations, the
following types of variations are identified at
Puri and Konarak: (D lateral variation in mean
size along the beaches; (i i ) variation in mean
size between Puri and Konarak in one season;
(iii) variation in the mean size due to change in
hydraulic conditions from nonmonsoon to mon-
soon; and (iv) total variations in mean size dur-
ing the entire period of observation.
As the mean size of sediments reflects the
intensity of transporting media and supply of
sediments, the above variations may be used to
construct a meaningful tool to interpret the
probable sediment dynamics and the source of
the sediments to the area in the following man-
Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4. No.1, 1988
31
Wave height in m
2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0
IO.OOOk,
14.28% 38.09C'1r 28.80%
11.11 %
8.33%
30.00% 25.00% 10.00% 5.00%
12.25%
40.00% 20.00% 20.00%
nero During the fair weather season wave
height "H;" is generally 1 m with wave period
"To" 5 to 6 sec (Table 2 and 3). Due to resultant
wave steepness (HjL o ) the sediment movement
is onshore. The wave approach is from a nor-
theasterly direction during nonmonsoon
months, and therefore does not greatly influ-
ence the coast because of its NNE-SSW orien-
tation. The longshore current patterns (Figure
5) indicate weak SW (0-20 em/sec) currents.
These parameters collectively favour deposi-
tion on the beach profile (KOMAR, 1976;
CHAUHAN, 1986); the same environment of
deposition prevails at both beaches. This sedi-
ment deposition nourishes the beaches with fine
sediments, resulting in the reduction of mean
size. The lateral variation in mean size during
a given season is mainly due to variation in the
intensity of sediment supply. As shown in Fig-
ure 6, longshore current velocities range from 0
to 20 em per sec in the area during February
1981 and 1982. These currents are from the
northeast and they pick up some of the sedi-
ments discharged by rivers Daya, Devi and Pra-
chi, all having a high sediment load. Konarak
beach recei ves more sediments because it is
located closer to these rivers (and NE of Puri)
whereas Puri beach receives much less. Evi-
dently this fluvial component becomes progres-
sively less from NE to SW. Thus profile 1 at
Puri (at the southernmost end) receives lesser
sediments than profile 5 at Konarak (northen-
most end) which is closest to the source. The
fineness of the sediments at profile 5 at Puri is
also noticeable, for the same reasons. The
higher deposition at Konarak beach is further
32 Chauhan, Verma, and Prasad

______ PlIIOFILE N~
______ PROFILE NO.~

1------ 2 3 .----- I ------- 2 3 .. 8

1-1' 1·3. '·10
---------,«>-------
I

-----------'-~I.'
~
I ' .4 1·.'2-0~
1·111 ~

2-10

~2.~
... ...

/ ~2'ao
1'" 2'SO ~ 2 .. 0

1·.0 2'S~I'
2'" ,-.. ,·S'
t· 51
2.75
:m 2·13
1- ••

t·6a "' ...- : : : - - - - -

___ -----2.76'
2.11 ",'
no soo.
11-11 '-7'
~:._-- h:.
A B

I~PRO~3tLE NO-~& r------;-PROFIL: " O ' - - - : ' - - - - - a

1·40 I· s. 1'1.

1'80 _ _ ----"-'1
---=---~~ I·ao
I·S, I
~-------1-7e ------,
--------'·78-------.J
.10
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 - u o O - - - -_ _ 1

Z·IO 1"'][ 2.10

~-------.2-2a

~ I- .7

1-'0 I·n 1-"

1.• 7 1. 7 1 m
-7!5~ ...., ..
z·.'
m eo,~~
I"
1"3

110 100.
1·7'

j:::.
c o
Figure 4. Spatial distribution of mean size at Konarak: (a) in February 1979, (b) in September 1979, (c) in April 1980, and (d)
in February 1981.

illustrated by skewness values which are posi- higher wave height and waves are capable of
tive compared to Puri and are characteristic of carrying more sediment. Further, the longshore
a depositional environment (DUANE, 1964). current patterns also change.
During the monsoon, i.e. in September 1979, Currents from the southwest during the mon-
1981, and June 1982 the scenario changes. The soon season, are stronger [20 to 40 em/sec (Fig-
waves are higher, having wave height "H,." ure 6)] enhancing coastal erosion. The net
from 2.5 to 4 m with wave period "To" 8 to 12 result is removal of fine sediments from
sec (Tables 2 and 3). The resultant wave steep- beaches, i.e. increase of mean grain size. Ero-
ness is favourable for offshore movement of sed- sion also reduces the spacing between the size
iments and therefore beaches erode. The wave contours. The convexity of the contours reflects
energy density E = pg H 2/8 is higher because of the offshore movement of the sediments. Clos-

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4, No_ 1, 1988

 Beach Sediment Movement in Orissa, India 33

~PROFILE NO. _ _______________ P ROFIL E NO _ _ _

I 2 3 4 _ -------- ~ r ,~ _ _ 3 4 ~
13' 1'38 j-30 1'37 I·"
1. 0

I·U I 138 I
_ _ _ 1·2~r---------

1-40
r-so
1'7S
]I 2-0

2-21 2·20

-I
2·BI 2 . 8 0 - - - - - -1
Z-81~OO" 2·83

5·0 III

A B

~ PROFILE NO. ____

I . _-----L ~ 1 ---- i

~
'2e \-28 1·26 "30 ',30
~1'3

~'-~I!5 '''8
. ~·eo --. '.5 ./
i ~,·e ----'·7!5 ~
1~1I
I ~
~'7e
2'3~
I 2.2 Z .. ~'2S ___
~ 230 2·28

2.3 ~·s __________

~ 2".
2" 2'.3
m
2·73

~
~ '7 ~
2·70 2.73 ~ -.........z.7'

~
2.S' 2"3---
2·78 2·53
2·7.
250 SO 0 III

2·53 i~'.~!.

c
Figure 5. Saptial distribution of mean size at Konarak; (a) in September 1982, (b) in February 1982, and (c) in June 1982.

ing of contours and occurrence of the coarser increases the mean size and the offshore com-
sediment band represent the formation of bars ponent is marked by convexity of size contours
in the inshore region, a characteristic storm towards offshore. The spacing between size con-
type profile (KOMAR, 1976). tours is wider in a depositional environment.
Sediment supply and longshore current pat-
CONCLUSION terns playa dominant role in determining the
nature of a beach.
Both Konarak and Puri beaches show a net
The following conclusions may be drawn from
reduction in mean size from 1979 to 1982, in
the present study. Variation in mean grain size
keeping with the accretionary nature of these
on a beach may be used to determine the prob-
beaches. However, at Konarak beach, the dep-
able dynamics of beach sediments. Deposition is
osition is higher due to a more favourable loca-
marked by a decrease in mean size and paral-
tion near a source of fluvial sediments.
lelism of size contours. Coastal erosion

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4. No.1. 1988

34 Chauhan, Verma, and Prasad

february 1981

September 1981
1
~ : ...( ..-R-··4 .s->
~~~.- =-------------
_ ....._ ....._~~ 5 »> :
.c.:»>: February 1982

June 1982

PURl
--------_._--------_._----------

~
----'" 0 - 10 (m/SIC
- - 10 - 20 em/slC
+-- 20 - 30 (m/SI(
~)0-40Cm/Ser.Aboye
( (onnr$lonofCurrents
R Rip (urrents

_ _ _ _ 10 ------------
----------

_ _ 10

'.'> l.OKm
~---=<-==.~.d

_ _ _ 10 ------- KONARAK
Figure 6. Patterns of littoral currents at Puri and Konarak beaches.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT DUANE B. P., 1964. Significance of skewness in

The authors are thankful to the Director N. 1.
0., Goa, for providing the facilities and encour-
agement to one of the authors (0. S. Chauhan).
Thanks are also due to Mr. R. R. Nair and Mr.
F. Almeida for cri tically going through the
paper and suggesting improvements.
LITERATURE CITED
CHAUHAN, O. S., 1986. Annual Beach Cycles and
Associated sediment movement at Puri and Kon-
arak, Orissa. Unpublished Ph. D. Thesis Garhwal
University, 160p.
CHAUHAN, O. S. and CHAUBEY, A. K., 1986. Com-
parative studies of moment graphic and phi meas-
ures on the sediments of East Coast of India (Sub-
mitted).
recen t sediments, Estern Pamlico Sound, North
Carolina. Journal Sedimentary Petrology, 34: 864-
874.
FOLK R. L., 1966. A review of grain size parameters.
Sedimentology, 6: 73-98.
FOLK, R. L. and WARD, R. C., 1957. Brazos river bar:
A study in the significance of grain size parameters.
Journal Sedimentary Petrology, 29: 3-36.
FRIEDMAN G. M., 1961. Distinction between dune
beach and river sand from their textural character-
istics. Journal Sedimentary Petrology, 31: 514-529.
FRIEDMAN, G. M., 1967. Dynamic processes and sta-
tistical parameters compared for size frequency dis-
tribution of beach and river sand. Journal Sedimen-
tary Petrology, 37: 327-354.
FRIEDMAN, G. M., 1979. Difference in size distri-
bution of populations of particles among sands of
various origin: Address of the retiring President of
International Association of Sedimentologist. Sedi-
mentology. 26: 3-32.
HASHIMI N. H., 1981. Comparative study of the

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4, No. I, 1988

 Beach Sediment Movement in Orissa, India 35

Table 3. Wave period and wave length parameters for the study area.

Wave period 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Period
Wave length 39.00 56.16 76.44 99.84 126.36 156.00 188.76 224.64
December 1978- 46.15% 23.07% 23.07% 7.60(';(;
February 1979
July 1979- 15.00% 5.00% 15.00% 60.00% 5.00%
September 1979
February 1980- 87.50% 12.50%
April 1980
December 1980- 90.9% 9.09%
February 1981
July 1981- 16.60%' 11.10% 38.88% 27.70% 5.55%
September 1981
December 1981- 75.00% 25.00%
February 1982
May 1982-June 11.10% 11.10% 33.3% 44.4%
1982

Table 3 Chauhan et al (1986).

moment and graphic size parameters of the sedi-
ments of the western continental shelf of India.
Mathematical Geology, 13: 291-301.
KOMAR P. D., 1976. Beach Process and Sedimenta-
tion. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall, 429p.
PASSEGA, R., 1957. Texture as character of the clas-
tic deposition. Bulletin American Association Petro-
leum Geologists, 41: 1952-1984.
SEVON, W. D., 1968. First and second degree regres-
sion correlation of the analysis statistical parame-
ters of Trask, Inman, Folk and Ward and Friedman.
Journal Sedimentary Petrology, 38: 238-246.
VEERA YY A, M., MURTHY, C. S., and VARDA-
CHARY V. V. R., 1981. Wave refraction and littoral
currents off Calva beach, Goa. Indian Journal
Marine Science, 10: 1-9.
VISHER G. S.. 1969. Grain size distribution and dep-
ositional processes. Journal Sedimentary Petrology,
39: 1074-1106.

n RESUME n
Etudie les variations de Ia taille moyenne de 550 sediments preleves entre 1979 et 1982 selon 5 profiles de chacun des deux sites.
De larges variations sont observees, qui sont en rapport avec les changements de conditions hydrauliques dans Ie temps et dans
l'espace. Les lignes d'ega le taille moyanne sont paralleles a la plage par temps calme. lorsque Ie depot predomine. Apres les phases
d'erosion, les Iig nes. au lieu d'etre para lleles deviennent convexes vers la mer. L'espacement entre ces isol ignes change aussi avec
la nature du mouvement des sediments: il est reduit quand il y a erosion de la plage (rapprochement des isol ignes). Souligne les
variations de la taille moyenne du sediment par rapport a la source sedimentaire, et les modifications des processus geomorpho-
logiques.-Catherine Bressolicr, EPHE, VA 910 CNRS, Montrouge, France

oZVSAMMENF ASSUNG n
Mittlere Grossenveranderungen von 550 Sedimentprobe unter verschiedenen Umwcltumstande wurden von 1979 bis 1982 betrach-
tet; die Probe stammten aus 10 Strandprofile (5 von Puri-Strand und 5 von Konarak-Strand; die beiden Strande sind auf der Orissa-
Kuste zu finden sei n). Die regclmassige Uberwachung der mittleren Grosse entland und quer tiber die Profile zeigt merkwtirdige
Veranderungen davon; die sind an Andenrungen der Hydraulik angeschlossen. Die Umrisslinie der Grosse sind parallel zum
Strand, wenn Umstande ruhig sind und Ablagerung vorherrschend ist. Die Verschwundung des Parallelismus zeigt das Ankom-
men der Auswaschung; die Urnrissl inie werden auch konvex zum Meere hin. Der Zwischenraum der Umrisslinie andern mit den
verschiedenen Bewegungen der Sedimente; er wird unter Auswaschungsumstande abgenommen und eine Beschran k ung der Linie
wird auch beachtet. Veranderurigen der mittlcrem Grosse in Beziehung auf wahrscheinlichen Sedimentquelle und Anderungen
der geomorphologischen Prozesse werden entworfen.-Stephen A. Murdock, Charlottesville, Virginia, USA

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 4. No.1, 1988