de LIMA CHERUBIM et al.
|
seeds.5,14 The main representative ones of this class have two aro‐
matic rings linked among themselves by an oxygenated heterocycle.
Hydrogenation degree and heterocycle substitution will differenti‐
ate the components of this group into flavonols, flavones, anthocya‐
nins, and isoflavones.13,14
The antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds is mainly de‐
termined by their chemical structure, especially by the number and
position of hydroxyl groups and the presence of an aromatic ring.5
These compounds work as efficient reactants of oxygen reactive
species, reduce and chelate ferric ions that catalyze lipid peroxida‐
tion, and they are also able to inactivate free radicals by transferring
hydrogen atoms to these molecules (1) or by donating an electron to
the radical (2).5,14 The mechanisms of radical inactivation action are
expressed below, where ArOH represents the antioxidant molecule
and R, the free radical:
⋅ ⋅
ArOH + R → ArO + RH
⋅
ArOH + R → ArOH + R
+⋅ −
The intermediates formed by phenolic antioxidants (ArO e
+·
ArOH ) action are relatively stable due to the resonance of the aro‐
matic ring present in the structure of these substances. 5,12
4 | COS M E TI C A PPLI C ATI O N S O F
PH E N O LI C A NTI OX I DA NT S
The cosmetic and dermatological importance of phenolic com‐
pounds is mainly based on antioxidant action. The application of
antioxidants in cosmetics reduces oxidative damage, constituting a
good alternative in therapy and prevention of premature aging. It
also provides photoprotective action and helps on the treatment of
sensitive or sun‐stressed skin by anti‐inflammatory activity. 14
antioxidant compounds are also applied to prevent or reduce oxida‐
tive deterioration of active constituents of the cosmetic and to avoid
oxidation of oily content present in the formulation. 7,15
4.1 | Anti‐aging activity
More recently, phenolic extracts are proposed as one of the most ef‐
fective functional raw materials for anti‐aging cosmetics.4 Moreira et
al8 have determined the anti‐collagenase activity and anti‐elastase
activity of phenolic compounds, especially quercetin and gallic acid,
present in Eugenia dysenterica, which has proved the anti‐aging activ‐
ity of these compounds.
The freeze‐dried fruit juice of Cucumis sativus, in a study carried
out by Nema et al,16 also showed an inhibitory effect of elastase and
hyaluronidase activity, an enzyme that catalyzes hyaluronic acid
degradation in the extracellular matrix.
Thring, Hili, and Naughton17 tested twenty‐three plant extracts,
and the answers were as follows: 10 extracts showed anti‐elastase
activity, 12 presented collagenase inhibition, and six showed inhib‐
itory activity against both enzymes. Among the studied extracts,
      3
white tea showed the highest inhibitory activity, as well as the high‐
est antioxidant activity and phenolic content.
4.2 | Solar photoprotection
The phenolic compounds can absorb ultraviolet radiation due to
the presence of chromophores in their structure. Thus, they avoid
solar radiation penetrate into the skin. This fact enhances the sun
protection of the product and neutralizes the harmful effects of
oxidative stress after sun exposure. 2,18-20 Besides, the pretreatment
of epidermal cells with phenolic extracts, such as resveratrol and
quercetin, allows a proven decrease in free radicals formation and
consequently prevents DNA damage. 21 Phenolic derivatives, espe‐
cially stilbenes, flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids, present high
UV absorption with sun protection factor (SPF) from 7 to 29. This
corresponds to an SPF between minimum (SPF 2 to 12) to moderate
(1)
(SPF from 12 a 30). 22 Rosa et al23 carried out a study, and they ob‐
tained SPF 8 for mille leaves (Achillea millefolium), SPF 6 for cabbage
(2)
(Brassica oleracea var. capitata), SPF 5 for “tiririca” (Cyperus rotundus),
· SPF 5 for Brazilian gooseberry (Plectranthus barbatus), SPF 2 for “ar‐
nica paulista” (Porophyllum ruderale (jacq.) Cass), and SPF 1 for “ser‐
ralha” (Sonchus oleraceus).
The photoprotective effect of Malaxis acuminata was promising
due to the presence of several phenolic compounds in the extract.
This suggests a new active for cosmetic application. 2
4.3 | Antimicrobial activity
The study of antimicrobial agents has a wide scope, and it is crucial
in several sectors of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas. 24 The
use of substances with antimicrobial activity in the cosmetic indus‐
try is intended to minimize deterioration caused by microorganisms
The in order to keep the microbiological purity of a product during its
manufacture, packaging, and storage. It also extends the shelf‐life
formulation and ensures consumer's safety against possible health
risks. 25-27 In addition, the development of bacterial resistance can be
minimized using vegetables raw materials. 25
Daglia28 reports about some microorganisms that have shown
sensitivity to phenolic compounds action, such as Streptococcus
mutans, Listeria monocytogenes, Escherichia coli, Helicobacter pylori,
Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Clostridium perfringens, influ‐
enza A, HSV‐1 and HSV‐2 (herpes), Adenovirus, Candida albicans, and
Trichophyton mentagrophytes.
The antibacterial efficacy of phenolic substances has been re‐
lated to their ability to causing damage to the cytoplasmic mem‐
brane as well as on inhibiting nucleic acids synthesis and restraining
the energetic metabolism of microorganisms. 29,30 Therefore, the
promising antifungal activity can be explained by its ability to cause
cell wall biosynthesis rupture, to impair folate metabolism synthe‐
sis, and consequently to inhibit ergosterol production, as well as to
reduce biofilms formation and to increase ionic permeability of the
membrane.31,32 Regarding antiviral activity, hypotheses are raised
about the ability to prevent the fusion between the membrane of