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Received: 3 June 2019    Accepted: 12 July 2019

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13093

REVIEW ARTICLE

Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications

Débora Jackeline de Lima Cherubim MSc1  | Cleide Viviane Buzanello Martins PhD2 |

Luciana Oliveira Fariña PhD1 | Rosemeire Aparecida da Silva de Lucca PhD1,2

1
Medical and Pharmaceutical Sciences
Center, Western Paraná State University,
Cascavel, Brazil
2
Engineering and Exact Sciences
Center, Western Paraná State University,
Toledo, Brasil
Correspondence
Rosemeire Aparecida da Silva de Lucca,
Universidade Estadual do Oeste do Paraná –
UNIOESTE, Rua da Faculdade, 645 ‐ Jardim
La Salle, Toledo, Paraná 85903‐000, Brasil.
Email: roselucca@gmail.com
Funding information
Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de
Pessoal de Nível Superior
Abstract
Background: Currently, there is a great interest in cosmetics prepared on natural
resources bases and this may restrict the use of synthetic substances. Plants play
a relevant role as a source of biologically active natural products with cosmetic and
dermatological importance. According to this context, polyphenolic extracts are
highlighted because they have proven antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory, anti‐aging, an‐
timicrobial, and supporting activity in solar photoprotection.
Aims: The purpose this study were reviewed at reporting the antioxidant activity of
phenolic compounds, mainly applied to dermatological therapy, and highlighting the
action mechanisms and structure‐activity relationship.
Methodology: In September 2017, we performed a literature search in PubMed and
Scielo for scientific researches, antioxidant studies, and systemic reviews. The search
terms we used were “PHYTOCOSMETICS” AND “ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY” OR
“PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS” (from 2000). As inclusion criteria were used relevant
original articles, scientific research in the area of interest, and crucial reference ar‐
ticles. Exclusion criteria were: duplicate publications, non‐relevant articles and not
published in English.
Results: The potential cosmetic application of phenolic compounds as natural anti‐
oxidants has been attributed to the chemical structure of these compounds, which to
interfere in different phases of the oxidation mechanism.
Conclusion: The use of phenolic extracts emerges as a viable alternative for cosmetic
application, ensuring a commitment to sustainability. However, it is of crucial impor‐
tance to evaluate the toxicity risks of raw materials and finished products.

KEYWORDS
antioxidant activity, cosmetics, polyphenols

1 |  I NTRO D U C TI O N as a prophylactic measure, resulting in normal production of struc‐

Reactive oxygen species take part in several degenerative processes
1
to the organism. Epidemiological and experimental studies have
provided an effective evidence of a critical association between
free radicals and the development of early aging. 2,3
Some applied
antioxidants are able to block the harmful effects of free radicals
tural proteins of the skin.1,4 Polyphenolic compounds are substances
widely distributed in nature, related to the plant survival and its spe‐
cies perpetuation. Several studies associated the chemical structure
of phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. Phenolic nucleus
presence acts out as an efficient sensor of reactive species, which
also reduces and chelates ferric ions that catalyze lipid peroxidation.5

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;00:1–5. © 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. |  1

wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd  
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Nowadays, the importance of Brazilian biodiversity has stimu‐
lated consumers to prefer products of natural origin as an alterna‐
tive when compared to synthetic products application.6-8 According
to this scenario, the beneficial effects of polyphenols have become
newsworthy to the cosmetics industry regarding the development of
ecological products rich in green raw material, especially to products
for therapy and to prevent skin premature aging.8,9
So, this paper aimed at describing, based on scientific literature,
the effects of polyphenolic extracts regarding antioxidant activity,
addressing anti‐aging, photoprotective, antimicrobial, and anti‐in‐
flammatory action.
2 |  FR E E R A D I C A L S A N D TH E I R AC TI O N
O N E A R LY AG I N G
The term free radical includes any chemical species that have one or
more unpaired electrons in its last electron layer. They comprise reactive
oxygen species; radical species, such as superoxide radical (O2), hydroxyl
radical (HO), and peroxyl radical (ROO); and nonradical species, such as
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and singlet oxygen (1O2), often generated as
byproducts of biological reactions or exogenous factors, mainly due to
the exposure to pollution, cigarette smoke, and ultraviolet radiation.4,10
Radical species cause oxidative damage to lipids, proteins, carbo‐
hydrates, and DNA. They also stimulate matrix metalloproteinases
formation (MMP‐1, MMP‐3, MMP‐8, and MMP‐9), as well as activate
enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and xanthine oxi‐
dase, resulting in degradation of collagen and elastin, damage to the
dermal connective tissue, and consequent premature skin aging. 2,11
Free radicals can also interact with lipids of extracellular matrix;
consequently, there are changes on the epidermal barrier and loss
Basic structure Class of phenolic compounds Chemical structure
C6–C1 Benzoic acid derivatives
C6–C3 Cinnamic acid derivatives
C6–C2–C6 Stilbenes
C6–C3–C6 Flavonoids
LIMA CHERUBIM et al.
of trans‐epidermal water, resulting in skin dryness. In addition, the
lipid peroxidation process leads to the expression of phospholipases
and cyclooxygenase with subsequent production of prostaglandins,
which are responsible for epithelial inflammation.3,4
The damages caused by radicals can be controlled by antioxidant
compounds, which may have an endogenous origin, such as glutathi‐
one peroxidase, glutathione dismutase, catalase, and superoxide dis‐
mutase or exogenous, mainly supplied by diet and the use of topical
products.12 The main classes of compounds with antioxidant activity
include vitamins, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds.13
3 | PH E N O LI C CO M P O U N DS A S PL A NT
A NTI OX I DA NT S
Plants represent an important source of natural products that are
biologically active and classified as secondary metabolites, among
which phenolic and polyphenolic compounds are outstanding.5,13
The term phenol or polyphenol is characterized by the presence
of one or more aromatic nuclei containing hydroxylated substitu‐
ents and/or functional derivatives, such as esters, ethers, and gly‐
cosides. These compounds can be divided, according to the number
and arrangement of carbon atoms present in the main structure of
a molecule, into two large groups: flavonoids and nonflavonoids
(Table 1).
In the nonflavonoid class, gallic acid is one of the most relevant
substances and represents phenolic acids class derived from benzoic
acid; caffeic and ferulic acids are derived from cinnamic acid and res‐
veratrol belongs to the stilbenes.13
Flavonoids are the most important and diversified class of
polyphenols, widely distributed in fruits, vegetables, berries, and
TA B L E 1   Basic structures of the main
classes of phenolic compounds
de LIMA CHERUBIM et al.
seeds.5,14 The main representative ones of this class have two aro‐
matic rings linked among themselves by an oxygenated heterocycle.
Hydrogenation degree and heterocycle substitution will differenti‐
ate the components of this group into flavonols, flavones, anthocya‐
nins, and isoflavones.13,14
The antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds is mainly de‐
termined by their chemical structure, especially by the number and
position of hydroxyl groups and the presence of an aromatic ring.5
These compounds work as efficient reactants of oxygen reactive
species, reduce and chelate ferric ions that catalyze lipid peroxida‐
tion, and they are also able to inactivate free radicals by transferring
hydrogen atoms to these molecules (1) or by donating an electron to
the radical (2).5,14 The mechanisms of radical inactivation action are
expressed below, where ArOH represents the antioxidant molecule
and R, the free radical:
⋅ ⋅
ArOH + R → ArO + RH
⋅
ArOH + R → ArOH + R
+⋅ −
The intermediates formed by phenolic antioxidants (ArO e
+·
ArOH ) action are relatively stable due to the resonance of the aro‐
matic ring present in the structure of these substances. 5,12
4 | COS M E TI C A PPLI C ATI O N S O F
PH E N O LI C A NTI OX I DA NT S
The cosmetic and dermatological importance of phenolic com‐
pounds is mainly based on antioxidant action. The application of
antioxidants in cosmetics reduces oxidative damage, constituting a
good alternative in therapy and prevention of premature aging. It
also provides photoprotective action and helps on the treatment of
sensitive or sun‐stressed skin by anti‐inflammatory activity. 14
antioxidant compounds are also applied to prevent or reduce oxida‐
tive deterioration of active constituents of the cosmetic and to avoid
oxidation of oily content present in the formulation. 7,15
4.1 | Anti‐aging activity
More recently, phenolic extracts are proposed as one of the most ef‐
fective functional raw materials for anti‐aging cosmetics.4 Moreira et
al8 have determined the anti‐collagenase activity and anti‐elastase
activity of phenolic compounds, especially quercetin and gallic acid,
present in Eugenia dysenterica, which has proved the anti‐aging activ‐
ity of these compounds.
The freeze‐dried fruit juice of Cucumis sativus, in a study carried
out by Nema et al,16 also showed an inhibitory effect of elastase and
hyaluronidase activity, an enzyme that catalyzes hyaluronic acid
degradation in the extracellular matrix.
Thring, Hili, and Naughton17 tested twenty‐three plant extracts,
and the answers were as follows: 10 extracts showed anti‐elastase
activity, 12 presented collagenase inhibition, and six showed inhib‐
itory activity against both enzymes. Among the studied extracts,
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white tea showed the highest inhibitory activity, as well as the high‐
est antioxidant activity and phenolic content.
4.2 | Solar photoprotection
The phenolic compounds can absorb ultraviolet radiation due to
the presence of chromophores in their structure. Thus, they avoid
solar radiation penetrate into the skin. This fact enhances the sun
protection of the product and neutralizes the harmful effects of
oxidative stress after sun exposure. 2,18-20 Besides, the pretreatment
of epidermal cells with phenolic extracts, such as resveratrol and
quercetin, allows a proven decrease in free radicals formation and
consequently prevents DNA damage. 21 Phenolic derivatives, espe‐
cially stilbenes, flavonoids, and hydroxycinnamic acids, present high
UV absorption with sun protection factor (SPF) from 7 to 29. This
corresponds to an SPF between minimum (SPF 2 to 12) to moderate
(1)
(SPF from 12 a 30). 22 Rosa et al23 carried out a study, and they ob‐
tained SPF 8 for mille leaves (Achillea millefolium), SPF 6 for cabbage
(2)
(Brassica oleracea var. capitata), SPF 5 for “tiririca” (Cyperus rotundus),
· SPF 5 for Brazilian gooseberry (Plectranthus barbatus), SPF 2 for “ar‐
nica paulista” (Porophyllum ruderale (jacq.) Cass), and SPF 1 for “ser‐
ralha” (Sonchus oleraceus).
The photoprotective effect of Malaxis acuminata was promising
due to the presence of several phenolic compounds in the extract.
This suggests a new active for cosmetic application. 2
4.3 | Antimicrobial activity
The study of antimicrobial agents has a wide scope, and it is crucial
in several sectors of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas. 24 The
use of substances with antimicrobial activity in the cosmetic indus‐
try is intended to minimize deterioration caused by microorganisms
The in order to keep the microbiological purity of a product during its
manufacture, packaging, and storage. It also extends the shelf‐life
formulation and ensures consumer's safety against possible health
risks. 25-27 In addition, the development of bacterial resistance can be
minimized using vegetables raw materials. 25
Daglia28 reports about some microorganisms that have shown
sensitivity to phenolic compounds action, such as Streptococcus
mutans, Listeria monocytogenes, Escherichia coli, Helicobacter pylori,
Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Clostridium perfringens, influ‐
enza A, HSV‐1 and HSV‐2 (herpes), Adenovirus, Candida albicans, and
Trichophyton mentagrophytes.
The antibacterial efficacy of phenolic substances has been re‐
lated to their ability to causing damage to the cytoplasmic mem‐
brane as well as on inhibiting nucleic acids synthesis and restraining
the energetic metabolism of microorganisms. 29,30 Therefore, the
promising antifungal activity can be explained by its ability to cause
cell wall biosynthesis rupture, to impair folate metabolism synthe‐
sis, and consequently to inhibit ergosterol production, as well as to
reduce biofilms formation and to increase ionic permeability of the
membrane.31,32 Regarding antiviral activity, hypotheses are raised
about the ability to prevent the fusion between the membrane of
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an infectious agent and the host membrane, linking glycoproteins of
28,31
virus and their receptors.
Sardi et al33 already described the antifungal activity of extracts
of seeds, pulp, and leaves of different species when compared to
Candida albicans. The most active extracts were E leitonii seeds,
E brasiliensis leaves and seeds, justifying their activity by the pres‐
ence of epicatechin and gallic acid as the main constituents of the
extract.
Plundrich et al34 studied polyphenols present in grape and
gooseberry, and they were effective in inhibiting the tyrosi‐
nase enzyme as well as in inhibiting microbial proliferation of
Staphylococcus aureus, which suggested some potential applica‐
tion in cosmetics.
4.4 | Anti‐inflammatory activity
Polyphenols are among the major substances able of inhibiting phos‐
pholipases and cyclooxygenases expression as well as reducing the
intensity of the inflammatory process.4,20,35 They were also able to
inhibit the synthesis of adhesion molecules and cytokines with neu‐
trophil chemotactic action.36
Infante et al36 showed some in vivo anti‐inflammatory ability of
fruit, pulp, and seed extracts from four native Brazilian species be‐
longing to the genus Eugenia. Eugenia brasiliensis reduced the influx
of neutrophils by up to 50%, E leitonii presented a 50% to 62% result,
E myrcianthes resulted in an inhibition of 46%, and E involucrata re‐
duced neutrophil migration by 40%. Antioxidant and anti‐inflamma‐
tory activities were attributed to the phenolic content present in the
species, mainly epicatechin and gallic acid.
Phytochemicals extracted from grape seeds such as antho‐
cyanins, stilbenes (resveratrol), and phenolic acids have some
potent antioxidant, anti‐inflammatory, and immunomodulatory
activities. 37
Polyphenols in grape act out on blocking pro‐inflammatory cy‐
tokines and affect neutrophils migration. They also can be incorpo‐
rated into pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.38
5 |  FI N A L CO N S I D E R ATI O N S
The antioxidant activity of plant extracts rich in phenolic compounds
has been demonstrated by scientific research. This activity has been
attributed to the chemical structure of these compounds, which
grants the ability to interfere in different phases of the oxidation
mechanism.
Furthermore, the commitment to sustainability has generated
interest in the research of vegetal extracts applied to the develop‐
ment of ecological and cosmetics and their quality. Therefore, the
use of phenolic extracts comes out as a viable alternative for cos‐
metic application.
It is also worth mentioning the importance of studying and eval‐
uating the risk of raw materials and finished product, confirming the
absence of toxicity of those extracts for cosmetic application.
LIMA CHERUBIM et al.
AC K N OW L E D G M E N T
To CAPES—Coordination of Superior Level Staff Improvement.
ORCID
Débora Jackeline Cherubim  https://orcid.
org/0000-0002-2634-2522
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How to cite this article: de Lima Cherubim DJ, Buzanello
Martins CV, Oliveira de Fariña L, da Silva de Lucca RA.
Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;00:1–5. https​://doi.org/10.1111/
jocd.13093​