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Received: 30 September 2019 Accepted: 1 October 2019

DOI: 10.1002/jat.3917

REVIEW ARTICLE

Review of the safety of application of cosmetic products


containing parabens

Natalia Matwiejczuk1 | Anna Galicka1 | Małgorzata M. Brzóska2

1
Department of Medical Chemistry, Medical
University of Białystok, Bialystok, Poland Abstract
2
Department of Toxicology, Medical Cosmetics are a source of lifetime exposure to various substances including para-
University of Białystok, Bialystok, Poland
bens, being the most popular synthetic preservatives. Because the use of cosmetics
Correspondence shows an increasing trend and some adverse health outcomes of parabens present in
Anna Galicka, Department of Medical
these products have been reported, the present review focused on the safety of der-
Chemistry, Medical University of Białystok,
Adama Mickiewicza 2A street, 15-222 mal application of these compounds. Special attention has been paid to the absorp-
Bialystok, Poland.
tion of parabens and their retention in the human body in the intact form, as well as
Email: angajko@umb.edu.pl
to their toxicological characteristics. Particular emphasis has been placed on the
estrogenic potential of parabens. Based on the available published data of the con-
centrations of parabens in various kinds of cosmetics, the average ranges of systemic
exposure dose (SED) for methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and
butylparaben have been calculated. Safety evaluations [margin of safety (MoS)] for
these compounds, based on their aggregate exposure, have also been performed.
Moreover, evidence for the negative impact of methylparaben on skin cells has been
provided, and the main factors that may intensify dermal absorption of parabens and
their impact on the skin have been described. Summarizing, the use of single cos-
metics containing parabens should not pose a hazard for human health; however,
using excessive quantities of cosmetic preparations containing these compounds
may lead to the development of unfavorable health outcomes. Due to the real risk of
estrogenic effects, as a result of exposure to parabens in cosmetics, simultaneous use
of many cosmetic products containing these preservatives should be avoided.

KEYWORDS

cosmetics, dermal absorption, estrogen potential, health effects, parabens, safety, skin,
systemic exposure

1 | I N T RO DU CT I O N 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products, these products are defined


as ‘any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the
Cosmetic products are present in our daily lives and are necessary in external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips,
the care of the skin, hair and nails. According to the Regulation and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous mem-
(EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of branes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning

Abbreviations: BMI, body mass index; BP, n-butylparaben; BzP, benzylparaben; bw, body weight; E2, 17β-estradiol; ED50, median effective dose; EP, ethylparaben; ER, estrogen receptor; EU,
European Union; FTS, full-thickness skin membrane; GDM, gestational diabetes mellitus; HA, hyaluronic acid; hCE, human carboxylesterase; HEK, human embryonic kidney; HP, n-heptylparaben;
IBP, isobutylparaben; IPP, isopropylparaben; MMP, matrix metalloproteinase; MoS, margin of safety; MP, methylparaben; NOAEL, no-observed-adverse-effect level; PeP, n-pentylparaben;
PHBA, p-hydroxybenzoic acid; PhP, phenylparaben; PP, n-propylparaben; RF, receptor fluid; ROS, reactive oxygen species; SC, stratum corneum; SCCS, Scientific Committee on Consumer
Safety; SED, Systemic exposure dose; UV, ultraviolet; UVB, ultraviolet B.

176 © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat J Appl Toxicol. 2020;40:176–210.
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 177

them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, most used paraben in cosmetics (Cowan-Ellsberry & Robison, 2009;
keeping them in a good condition or correcting body odours’. In pur- Dodson et al., 2012; Fisher et al., 2017; Golden, Gandy, & Vollmer,
suance of the regulation of the European Union (EU), cosmetic prod- 2005; Guo, Wang, & Kannan, 2014; Pažoureková, Hojerová,
ucts should be safe under normal or reasonably foreseeable Klimová, & Lucová, 2013; Rastogi et al., 1995; Shen et al., 2007).
conditions of their use and should not endanger safety and health of Parabens form small colorless hygroscopic crystals or powders
users. Cosmetic preparations, unlike medicines for external use, without a perceptible odor or taste (Neidig & Burrell, 1944). They are
should not affect the structure and function of tissues subjected to characterized by numerous beneficial properties such as: high chemi-
application. Detailed cosmetics recipes, production process, and used cal stability within a wide range of pH and temperature, resistance to
technologies influence the quality of the final products. Manufac- hydrolysis, low production cost, and low frequency of sensitization or
turers should be aware that the preparations they release on the mar- irritation. Physicochemical properties of the most common parabens
ket have to be completely safe. Safety of the cosmetic means that the used in cosmetics are presented in Table 1 (Golden et al., 2005; Soni
product not only does not contain prohibited chemical substances and et al., 2005; Jewell et al., 2007). In addition, these compounds are bio-
permitted substances in too high concentrations, but also requires degradable, do not change the consistency or color of the products,
adequate microbiological purity and stability. A guarantee of microbio- and have been recognized by the USA Food and Drug Administration
logical purity and stability is very important, therefore producers use (FDA) as safe. In a weakly acidic environment parabens are very effec-
preservatives, usually choosing synthetic compounds, like parabens. tive in preventing the growth of yeast, mold, and to a lesser extent
Parabens are the most popular synthetic preservatives used not bacteria. They show the most effective action against Gram-positive
only in cosmetics, but also in foods and medicines. It was estimated (Gram+) bacteria, while their activity against mold and Gram-negative
that most parabens present in the body come from dermal application (Gram−) bacteria is weaker (Doron, Friedman, Falach, Sadovnic, &
of cosmetics products (50 mg/day), while the amounts of these com- Zvia, 2001; Orth, Kabara, Denyer, & Tan, 2006). The antimicrobial
pounds taken together with food (2.5 mg/day) and medicines activity of parabens is related to the length of the alkyl chain of the
(25 mg/day) are significantly lower (Cashman & Warshaw, 2005; Soni, individual esters. The activity of parabens increases along with
Taylor, Greenberg, & Burdock, 2002). Because of the wide use of par- increasing side-chain length. However, long-chain compounds are not
abens, individuals will probably be exposed to these compounds dur- widely used due to their reduced solubility (Doron et al., 2001; CIR,
ing a lifetime. From the chemical point of view, parabens are esters of 2008).
4-hydroxybenzoic acid, also known as p-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA), Parabens at the concentrations permitted to be used were con-
among which methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), n- sidered safe, but many scientific reports contradict this and suggest
propylparaben (PP), isopropylparaben (IPP), n-butylparaben (BP), that everyday use of cosmetics containing these compounds can exert
isobutylparaben (IBP), n-pentylparaben (PeP), n-heptylparaben (HP), harmful effects on the human body. Most of these data have been
benzylparaben (BzP), and phenylparaben (PhP) can be distinguished. related to the estrogenic properties of parabens with a longer aliphatic
In the available literature, these compounds may appear under differ- chain, although short-chain esters can also exert estrogenic effects
ent names, e.g., nipagins, aseptins (Rastogi, Schouten, de Kruijf, & (Sun et al., 2016), which may be connected with the development of
Weijland, 1995; CIR, 2008). MP alone or combined with PP is the breast cancer (Darbre, 2006; Darbre et al., 2004; Darbre & Harvey,

TABLE 1 Physicochemical properties of the most common parabens used in cosmetics

Parameter MP EP PP BP
Chemical formula

Molecular weight, g/mol 152.16 166.18 180.21 194.23


CAS no. 99–76-3 120–47-8 94–13-3 94–26-8
PKa 8.17 8.22 8.35 8.37
Solubility in water at 25  C, g/100 mL 0.25 0.17 0.05 0.02

Solubility in water at 80 C, g/100 mL 2.00 0.86 0.30 0.15
Solubility in ethanol 32 41 50 68
LogPow 1.96 2.51 3.04 3.57
Melting point,  C 131 116–118 96–98 68–69
Boiling point,  C 270–280 297–298 – –
178 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

2014; Harvey, 2003; Harvey & Everett, 2006, 2012), obesity article; however, the main concern has been directed towards dermal
(Artacho-Cordon et al., 2017; Hu et al., 2013, 2016, 2017; Kolatorova exposure to parabens present in cosmetics and their safety for users
et al., 2018; Quirós-Alcalá, Buckley, & Boyle, 2018, 2019), an increase of these products. Particular emphasis has been on MP, being the
in gestational age (Aker et al., 2019) and the risk of gestational diabe- most often used paraben in cosmetics. In addition, in the recent
tes mellitus (GDM) (Li et al., 2019), or development of malignant mela- years the search for alternative preservatives to replace parabens or
noma (Darbre & Harvey, 2008). The anti-androgenic properties of to decrease their concentration and minimize the health risks for
these compounds can contribute to a reduction of reproductive users of cosmetics has become a scientific challenge.
potential (Garcia et al., 2017; Kang et al., 2002; Meeker, Yang, Ye, Cal- Preparing the present review, we searched for data in biblio-
afat, & Hauser, 2011; Oishi, 2001, 2002; Smarr et al., 2018; Tavares, graphic databases such as PubMed, Scopus, Elsevier, ResearchGate,
Martins, Oliveira, Ramalho-Santos, & Peixoto, 2009). In addition, in etc., as well as toxicological and cosmetological databases (e.g., http://
some cases exposure to parabens via cosmetics may cause allergic ec.europa.eu, PubChem) using keywords such as: ‘parabens’, ‘esters of
reactions (Cashman & Warshaw, 2005; Lee-Sarwar et al., 2018; Sav- 4-hydroxybenzoic acid’, ‘methylparaben’, ‘ethylparaben’,
age, Matsui, Wood, & Keet, 2012; Spanier, Fausnight, Camacho, & ‘propylparaben’, ‘butylparaben’, ‘use of cosmetics’, ‘dermal absorption’,
Braun, 2014). ‘accumulation in the skin’, ‘exposure’, ‘UVB radiation’, ‘safety’, ‘allergy’,
Today, a huge amount of new cosmetic products flood the cos- ‘breast cancer’, ‘obesity’, ‘gestational diabetes mellitus’, ‘estrogenic
metics market and various mass media constantly encourage the use potential’, ‘anti-androgenic properties’, ‘skin cells’, ‘damage to
of many promising cosmetic products to feel healthy and more keratinocytes and fibroblasts’, stratum corneum’, ‘epidermis’, ‘dermis’,
attractive, thus their daily use is constantly growing. The concentra- ‘collagen’, ‘EU Regulations’, ‘paraben alternatives’, etc.
tions of cosmetic ingredients are under the control of the producer,
but the consumer decides about the amount and frequency of use
of particular cosmetics. An average adult uses daily about nine cos- 2 | SKIN – THE FU N CT ION A ND
metic products but >25% of women use ≥15 (Sedlewicz, 2005). S I G N I F I CA N C E O F I T S CA R E
Because the use of cosmetics, being the main source of exposure to
parabens, shows an increasing trend and there are controversies Skin is one of the most important and the largest organ of the human
regarding the safety of these compounds for consumers, in the pre- body. Its average area in an adult human is from 1.5 to 2 m2, and the
sent review our attention has been focused on the safety of applica- mass along with the subcutaneous tissue can reach up to 20 kg (Fore,
tion of cosmetic products containing these compounds. As 2006; Lai-Cheong & McGrath, 2017; Richardson, 2003). As the outer-
knowledge of the risk of unfavorable actions of parabens present in most organ in the human body, it is constantly in contact with the
cosmetics is essential when developing formulations of these prod- external environment and is the basic protective system. The thick-
ucts and evaluating their safety, as well as when looking for possible ness of the skin is uneven and depends on many factors, such as the
causes of unfavorable outcomes noted in consumers using cosmetics area of the body, exposure to external factors (UV rays, injuries), and
containing parabens, toxicological characteristic of these compounds age. The skin has a three-layer structure that ensures its flexibility and
are also presented and discussed in this review. Special attention has durability. The epidermis is the outermost and thinnest layer. It is
been paid to the results of in vitro and in vivo studies on the absorp- made of the multilayered keratinized flat epithelium. Under the epi-
tion and biotransformation of parabens, as well as on the presence dermis is the dermis, which consists of dense connective tissue con-
of these compounds in the human body in their intact taining collagen and elastin fibers. The dermis also contains nerve
(unhydrolyzed) form, which unambiguously proves the relationship fibers, blood vessels, and hair bulbs. In addition, there are also seba-
between the use of cosmetics and the accumulation of parabens. ceous and sweat glands. Human skin has many important functions
Based on the available published data on the concentrations of para- without which life would not be possible. It supports homeostasis and
bens in various kinds of cosmetics and taking into account the rec- maintains a balance between the body and the environment (Fore,
ommendations of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 2006; Lai-Cheong & McGrath, 2017; Lee, Jeong, & Ahn, 2006;
(SCCS) for calculation of aggregate exposure for preservatives Randall-Wickett & Visscher, 2006). The functions of skin can be
through cosmetic use (SCCS, 2018), the average ranges of the sys- divided into the passive (e.g., protection) and the active (e.g., secretion
temic exposure dose (SED) for MP, EP, PP, and BP have been calcu- and sense). It protects the body from overheating, cold, heat, radia-
lated. Safety evaluations [margin of safety (MoS)] for these parabens, tion, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and chemicals (Lee et al., 2006;
based on their aggregate exposure, have also been performed. More- Richardson, 2003; Romanovsky, 2014). In addition, protection against
over, the negative impact of MP on skin cells has been described the penetration of microorganisms and parasites is a very important
(Cha et al., 2015; Ishiwatari et al., 2007; Majewska, Zaręba, Sur- function of the skin, especially in the neonatal period and infancy
 ski, & Galicka, 2017; Smith & Alexander, 2005). In addition,
az_ yn (Randall-Wickett & Visscher, 2006). Additionally, the skin exhibits
attention has been focused on factors that may intensify dermal secretory and resorptive activities, is involved in the synthesis of vita-
absorption of parabens and their impact on the skin, including ultra- min D3, hormones and melanin, and also plays an important role in the
violet B (UVB) radiation (Dubey et al., 2017; Handa et al., 2006). All immune system of the body (Fore, 2006; Lai-Cheong & McGrath,
the above mentioned issues are discussed in the present review 2017; Richardson, 2003).
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 179

The skin ages with age and under the influence of external fac- 3 | T H E EU R E G U LA T I O N S O F P A RA B E N S
tors. Aging of the skin is a complex biological process affected by I N C O S M E T I C P R O D U CT S
the combination of endogenous (metabolic processes, hormones,
genetic predispositions) and exogenous factors (chemicals, toxins, The EU recommendations for the safety of cosmetics and personal
ionizing radiation, UV radiation) (Cevenini et al., 2008; Farage, care products were introduced in 1976 by the EU Cosmetic Directive
Miller, Elsner, & Maibach, 2008; Farage, Miller, Elsner, & Maibach, and the regulations are periodically updated. According to the Com-
2013; Fisher, 2005; Fisher et al., 2002; Fore, 2006; Guinot, Malvy, & mission Regulation (EU) No 358/2014 of 9 April 2014 amending
Tenenhaus, 2002; Tobin, 2017). These factors may cause functional Annexes II and V to the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the
and structural changes in the various layers of the skin. In addition, European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products,
they are also associated with changes in the appearance of the skin, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, other than the esters
especially on the areas of the skin exposed to sunrays. The aging of isopropyl, isobutyl, phenyl, benzyl, and pentyl, are allowed to be
skin intrinsically becomes thin, atrophic, finely wrinkled, and dry, in used at a maximum concentration of 0.4% (as acid) for single esters
contrast to the pre-aged skin in which photo-aging processes take and 0.8% (as acid) for mixtures of esters in ready-for-use preparations
place. This skin usually shows thickened epidermis, mottled discol- (EC, 2014; CIR, 2008; EC, 2009). The same concentrations of para-
oration, deep wrinkles, laxity, dullness, and roughness. In each case, bens are accepted in the USA (CIR, 2008; FDA, 2012). IPP, IBP, PhP,
the gradual loss of the skin elasticity leads to its sagging. These BzP, and PeP are prohibited in cosmetic products in accordance with
changes are related, among others, to reduced content of collagen, the current regulations of the EU (EC, 2014, EC, 2009). From
which is the most abundant extracellular matrix protein responsible 30 October 2014, only cosmetics that comply with the Commission
for the skin's tensile strength and mechanical properties (Frantz, Regulation (EU) No 358/2014 may be placed on the EU market,
Stewart, & Weaver, 2010; Gelse, Poschl, & Aigner, 2003; Quan & whereas from 30 July 2015 only products that comply with this Regu-
Fisher, 2015; Varani et al., 2006). In addition to collagen, the lation are allowed to be made available on the EU market. The EU
amount of hyaluronic acid (HA), the key molecule responsible for SCCS recommended that BP and PP should be prohibited in leave-on-
maintaining skin moisture, is reduced (Papakonstantinou, Roth, & the-skin cosmetic products intended for use on the nappy area of chil-
Karakiulakis, 2012). dren aged <3 years (SCCS, 2011). Moreover, the SCCS has set maxi-
Today, the appearance and condition of the human body are mum concentration limits of 0.14% for BP or PP (single esters and
becoming an extremely important aspect of life. Most people want their salts), 0.4% for MP or EP (single esters and their salts), and 0.8%
to adapt themselves to patterns of beauty promoted, accepted, and for mixtures of these four ingredients, wherein the sum of the individ-
imposed by a society. Therefore, growing attention has been paid to ual concentrations of BP and PP cannot exceed 0.14% (EC, 2014, EC,
maintaining healthy and beautiful skin. Furthermore, there is an 2009).
increasing interest in developing anti-aging strategies that are effec-
tive in relieving the symptoms of skin aging (Baumann, 2007;
Ganceviciene, Liakou, Theodoridis, Makrantonaki, & Zouboulis, 2012; 4 | ABSO RP TION AND R ETENTION OF
Bosch et al., 2015). Regular use of cosmetic formulations can PARABENS – STUDIES ON ANIMAL AND
improve elasticity and smoothness of the skin, accelerate its regener- HU M A N SKI N SE CT I ON S
ation, and thus temporarily change its condition (Campos, Gianeti,
Mercurio, & Gaspar, 2014; Ganceviciene et al., 2012; Holloway & Many reports have proven that parabens can be quickly absorbed
Jones, 2005; Ribeiro, Estanqueiro, Oliveira, Lobo, & Benefits, 2015). through the intact skin and may be able to accumulate in body tissues.
This is due to the content of many active ingredients in the cosmetic Experiments carried out on animal and human skin sections demon-
products (vitamins, polyphenols, flavonoids, peptides, growth fac- strated that despite its lowest lipophilicity, MP has the ability to pene-
tors), which exert numerous positive, direct or indirect (by reducing trate the skin to a greater extent than other parabens and to
the concentration of free radicals) effects on the skin (Baumann, accumulate in its non-metabolized form (Caon, Costa, de Oliveira,
2007; Bosch et al., 2015; Campos et al., 2014; Gianeti, Mercurio, & Micke, & Simões, 2010; El Hussein, Muret, & Berard, 2007; Ishiwatari
Campos, 2013; Lintner, Mas-Chamberlin, Mondon, Peschard, & et al., 2007; Jewell et al., 2007; Pažoureková et al., 2013; Pedersen,
Lamy, 2009; Petruk, Del Giudice, Rigano, & Monti, 2018; Ribeiro Marra, Micoli, & Santi, 2007). Table 2 presents the results of chosen
et al., 2015; Zillich, Schweiggert-Weisz, Eisner, & Kerscher, 2015) studies on the dermal permeation and accumulation of parabens (with
and collagen synthesis (Galicka & Nazaruk, 2007; Nazaruk & Galicka, particular emphasis on MP) in animal and human skin models. These
2014). However, all these cosmetic products consist not only of the studies showed that the rate of paraben transport through the skin
active care ingredients, but also many chemical additives, among depends on the length of the alkyl substituent and its occlusion-
which synthetic preservatives belong to an important group. Thus, forming capacity (Caon et al., 2010; Cross & Roberts, 2000; El Hussein
application of cosmetic preparations throughout a lifetime is a source et al., 2007; Pedersen et al., 2007). The percentage of parabens per-
of repeated chronic exposure to numerous chemical compounds, meating across the animal and human skin fragments was the highest
including parabens being the most often used preservatives in these for MP, as the least lipophilic and the most water-soluble paraben,
products. and it was lower for EP, PP, and BP in accordance with their lower
180

TABLE 2 Dermal permeation and retention studies of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP) and butylparaben (BP) in animal and human skin models

Skin/subject/cosmetic/
amount/exposure time Paraben Main results and conclusions References
Frozen (intact and stripped) and MP (0.1%) % of unmetabolized MP in intact (stripped) MP is not completely hydrolyzed. Pažoureková et al., 2013
fresh ear full-thickness skin FTS of total amounts of permeants The amount of unmetabolized MP is
(FTS)/6-month-old domestic Enhancer Hydrogel Emulsion oil-in-water higher after exposure of the skin
pigs/aqueous solution, hydrogel to emulsion than hydrogel. The
or emulsion oil-in-water with – 5.6 (4.9) 5.8 (6.3) permeability coefficient increases
and without enhancer of urea 5.4 (5.4) 6.1 (6.8) with paraben water solubility for
penetration/10 transcutol 5.2 (5.6) 7.4 (7.4) emulsions, while it decreases for
± 0.05 mg/cm2/24 h gels.Penetration enhancers and
propylene glycol 5.5 (5.7) 7.1 (7.1) mechanical damage to the skin
increase MP absorption.
Freezing of pig ear skin only slightly
reduces the hydrolytic activity of
esterases.
Frozen ear FTS/young MP, EP, PP, BP (0.1% each) Diffusive parameter D/H2/cm MP shows the highest permeation Caon et al., 2010
pig/paraben solution in 20% MP 0.111 ± 0.032 flux. An increase in the ethanol
and 50% (v/v) ethanol or concentration caused a higher
PBS/2 mL/6 h EP 0.059 ± 0.018 paraben accumulation in the
PP 0.073 ± 0.038 dermis than in epidermis, probably
BP 0.045 ± 0.001 due to greater permeation.

Frozen dorsal skin/5-month-old MP (0.1%) MP concentration (μg/g tissue) MP is not hydrolyzed completely Ishiwatari et al., 2007
female Yucatan micro pig/MP 15 min, 60 min, 120 min and its retention in the skin
solution/10 μL/15 min, 60 min, increases in a time-dependent
120 min SC 976 ± 104, 1651 ± 276, 2046 ± 193 way.
Epidermis 9.2 ± 0.6, 19.3 ± 1.5, 15.0 ± 3.4
Dermis 2.3 ± 0.2, 3.2 ± 0.7, 3.4 ± 0.6
FTS from fresh ears/6-month-old MP (0.23–0.32%) % (approx.) of parabens permeation The percentage of paraben Pedersen et al., 2007
rabbits/3 creams containing EP (0.0–0.1%) MP, EP, PP permeation was the greatest for
parabens in different PP (0.04–0.19%) MP, and it was more affected by
proportions/2 mg/cm2/8 h 60%, 40%, 20% paraben solubility and lipophilicity
MP retention in the skin (μg/g tissue) than paraben content and the
Epidermis, Dermis composition of creams.
MP retention was higher in the
Cream 253.0 ± 19, 19.3 ± 2.3 epidermis than in the dermis. The
Cream 76.2 ± 13.1, 5.8 ± 2.4 difference in retention, not
Cream 167.6 ± 46.7, 12.6 ± 3.8 associated with the difference in
permeation, can be related to the
different composition of the
creams.
(Continues)
MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.
TABLE 2 (Continued)
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

Skin/subject/cosmetic/
amount/exposure time Paraben Main results and conclusions References
Frozen dorsal skin/male MP, EP, PP, BP (100 μM each) % of permeation and retention in skin Paraben absorption was similar in Jewell et al., 2007
mini-pigs/parabens 6 h RM, 24 h RM, 24 h skin human and mini-pig skin, but
solution/25 μg/cm2/6 and 24 h mini-pig skin hydrolyzed parabens
MP 2.84 ± 0.48, 35.76 ± 7.04, 23.96 ± 8.44
to a greater extent than the
EP, ND 5.12 ± 1.68, 37.0 ± 10.6 human skin. The % absorption and
PP 3.56 ± 0.36, 20.12 ± 5.0, 36.96 ± 7.8 hydrolysis was the greatest for
MP. The retention in the skin was
BP, ND 15.12 ± 2.76, 48.76 ± 24.48
higher for more lipophilic
parabens. Parabens were
associated with the dermal lipids.
Human breast skin/3 healthy MP 5.56 ± 1.4, 27.80 ± 3.92, 28.6 ± 11.52
female (aged 28, 35, 37 years)/ EP 8.76 ± 1.64, 35.32 ± 4.84, 35.96 ± 10.6
parabens solution/25 μg/cm2/6
and 24 h PP 6.72 ± 2.0, 30.32 ± 11.64, 44.0 ± 19.1
BP 4.48 ± 1.84, 32.96 ± 10.68, 49.68 ± 12.36

Human abdominal skin/6 women MP (0.1%) % of total permeated parabens MP penetrated the skin to the El Hussein et al., 2007
aged 35–45 years/body EP (0.08%) Single application, 3 applications greatest extent.
lotion/12, 24 and 36 h PP (0.2%) MP 0.057 ± 0.03, MP 0.6 ± 0.1 EP 0.045 ± 0.01, EP 0.3 ± 0.1 PP After three applications of
BP (0.15%) 0.028 ± 0.01, PP 0.2 ± 0.05 BP 0.007 ± 0.003, BP 0.04 ± 0.01 body lotion the increase in the
epidermis–dermis crossing was
noted for each paraben, but the
most important for MP.

FTS, full-thickness skin; RM, receptor medium; ND, not detectable


181
182 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

solubility (Table 1) (Caon et al., 2010; El Hussein et al., 2007; Jewell concentration of ethanol (50%, v/v) more intact parabens were
et al., 2007; Pedersen et al., 2007). Differences in paraben diffusion detected in the dermis, which indicates increased permeation of para-
may result from their interaction with intercellular lipids, which bens (Caon et al., 2010).
increase with increasing paraben lipophilicity. After 8-h cream applica- Compared to the intact FTS, the stripped FTS of pig ear had a
tion on rabbit skin, which is a good model of human skin, MP showed slightly smaller sheet thickness (on average ~1%), but a seven-fold
the highest permeation, reaching 60% of the amount applied, followed higher transcutaneous electrical conductivity value, which resulted in
by EP (40%) and PP (20%) (Pedersen et al., 2007). Similarly, MP passed higher permeation of parent MP and its metabolite from all investi-
through human skin in the highest amount (0.42 ± 0.1, 1.91 ± 1.1, and gated preparations (Pažoureková et al., 2013). At 24 h after using
0.22 ± 0.1 μg/cm2 after 12, 24, and 36 h, respectively) during one these preparations, 2.9–7.6% of the applied dose (10 μg/cm2) of
application of body lotion, while more lipophilic parabens crossed the unmetabolized MP in stripped FTS and 2.0–5.8% MP in intact FTS RF
skin layers to a lesser extent (for BP the values were 0.03 ± 0.004, was detected. The presence of enhancer [e.g., 5% (w/w) transcutol] in
0.24 ± 0.1, and 0.21 ± 0.1 μg/cm2 after 12, 24, and 36 h, respectively) emulsion caused 1.4-times faster permeation of the parent MP
(El Hussein et al., 2007). The maximum accumulation of parabens in through the stripped FTS than through the intact FTS. The steady
the receptor fluid (RF) was after 24 h from the time of a single applica- state flux (Jss) values of MP were 0.13 μg/cm2/h and 0.18 μg/cm2/h
tion of body lotion, whereas a significant increase in the amount of through intact and stripped FTS of pig ear, respectively (Pažoureková
permeated parabens at each time point (12, 24, and 36 h) after three et al., 2013). The purpose of the stripping procedure of the skin was
applications of the body lotion was demonstrated. For MP these to mimic the in vivo conditions of topical application of cosmetics
values were significantly higher (0.6 ± 0.17, 3.4 ± 0.7, and containing parabens to the human skin with damaged stratum cor-
5.6 ± 0.63 μg/cm after 12, 24, and 36 h, respectively) than for BP
2
neum (SC) due to various mechanical or disease reasons.
(0.03 ± 0.01, 0.28 ± 0.09, and 0.6 ± 0.17, respectively) (El Hussein Although the results of tests on animal skin sections are difficult
et al., 2007). Despite the weaker BP passage through the skin as com- to extrapolate to humans, the pig skin model seems to be the most
pared with MP, the repeated application of cosmetics containing BP useful. However, the process of absorption of individual cosmetic
may also lead to its accumulation in the skin (Darbre, 2001; El Hussein ingredients, including parabens, can be different in humans because it
et al., 2007). is dependent on a number of physical and biologic factors such as:
The absorption and the percentage of unmetabolized parabens age, skin condition (normal, abraded or diseased), skin temperature,
remaining in the skin depend not only on their physicochemical prop- the area of application and contact time, frequency of application, skin
erties but also on the type and composition of the formulations used hydration and pretreatment (e.g., microdermabrasion), peripheral cir-
(Pažoureková et al., 2013; Pedersen et al., 2007; Pozzo & Pastori, culation, physical characteristics of the penetrant, and the penetrant–
1996). According to Pedersen et al. (2007), the solubility and vehicle relationship (Hougeir & Kircik, 2012; Lopes, Garcia, & Bentley,
lipophilicity of parabens influence their penetration through the skin 2015). Heating the skin, e.g., with a massage, can increase the pene-
to a greater extent than the initial paraben concentration and the tration of cosmetics components into its internal layers. In in vitro
composition of preparations, while the composition of the used for- experiments using human epidermis, a significantly enhanced epider-
mulation plays a role in paraben retention. The percentage of MP mal retention of BP and epidermal diffusivity of MP were demon-
remaining in the skin at 8 h after cream application was 15% of the strated at temperatures ranging from 23 to 45  C (Akomeah, Nazir,
applied dose in the case of two creams, containing MP, EP, and PP, Martin, & Brown, 2004). There are large differences in the degree of
while for EP and PP the values were in the range of 7% to 9%. In the absorption of cosmetic ingredients in various parts of the body
case of a third cream, not containing EP, the percentage of parabens (e.g., the rate of absorption on the face and scalp is much greater than
retained in the skin was ~3% for both MP and PP (Pedersen et al., in other parts of the body). Skin thickness is also important and cer-
2007). The amount of unmetabolized MP found in the RF during 24-h tainly the eyelids or skin under the eyes, which is extremely thin and
permeation through the frozen intact and stripped full-thickness skin delicate, is more exposed to paraben action than the skin on the soles
membrane (FTS) of pig ear was higher after their exposure to emul- of the feet, which is very thick. In addition, an increasing number of
sion oil-in-water (0.34 ± 0.06 and 0.50 ± 0.07 μg/cm2, respectively) cosmetics are composed of ingredients that change penetration of the
than to hydrogel (0.22 ± 0.02 and 0.29 ± 0.02 μg/cm , respectively) or
2
epidermis, e.g., pyrrolidones, glycols, sulfoxides, alcohols, proteases
aqueous paraben solution (0.20 ± 0.03 and 0.29 ± 0.04 μg/cm2, (papain), and surfactants (Hougeir & Kircik, 2012; Lopes et al., 2015;
respectively) (Pažoureková et al., 2013). The greater permeation rate Shokri, Javar, & Ghadermazi, 2014; Williams & Barry, 2004). Lactic
of MP from the emulsion was probably caused by the fact that the acid, glycolic acid or menthol can be used to deliver the active ingredi-
emulsion is closer to the natural skin film than hydrogel or a MP solu- ents of cosmetics to the dermis to stimulate endogenous collagen syn-
tion. Penetration enhancers (ethanol, urea, transcutol, propylene gly- thesis, as exogenous collagen used in cosmetics cannot penetrate
col) and mechanical damage to the skin increase absorption of through the skin because of a high molecular mass. In addition to spe-
parabens (Caon et al., 2010; Pažoureková et al., 2013) (Table 2). Expo- cific substances facilitating penetration of the active ingredients via
sure of pig ear FTS to parabens (MP, EP, PP, and BP) dissolved in eth- the skin, there are many cosmetic treatments that provide a similar
anol at a concentration of 20% (v/v) resulted in their greater retention effect. Microdermabrasion may be an example. It is a very common
in the epidermis than in the dermis, while after the use of a higher procedure used in most beauty salons, which is based on the
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 183

mechanical removal of the SC facilitating the transport of the ingredi- unlabeled mouthwashes and toners. Although the detected concen-
ents used. Furthermore, treatments such as waxing and epilation can trations of MP and PP in the unlabeled products were much lower
affect the SC, which also contributes to the penetration of substances than in the labeled ones, the unlabeled toners contained one more
contained in cosmetic preparations (Trivedi, Kroumpouzos, & Murase, paraben than the labeled ones. This also applies to alternative prod-
2017). ucts, e.g., the presence of MP was revealed at a concentration of
Skin diseases are an additional factor increasing the penetration 0.16% in an alternative sunscreen (Dodson et al., 2012).
of parabens via the skin. In children with atopic dermatitis, absorption The aggregate SED (cumulative internal exposure) to parabens
of these preservatives may be facilitated due to the use of specific estimated in the present review based on the published concentra-
softeners for the treatment of the pathologically altered skin tions of MP, ET, PP, and BP determined in various categories of cos-
(Overgaard et al., 2017). Moreover, the damage to the skin barrier or metics (Table 3) and according to the recommendations of the SCCS
discontinuity of the epidermis, such as scratches, increase the pene- for calculation of aggregate exposure to preservatives through cos-
tration of all substances contained in care products (Nielsen, Nielsen, & metics use (SCCS, 2018), ranged from 0.0471 to 1.928 mg/kg body
Sørensen, 2007). weight(bw)/day (assuming 50% dermal absorption), of which the
majority (about 34–38%) was MP (Table 4). Among all cosmetics ana-
lyzed, body lotions mostly contributed to paraben exposure followed
5 | U S E OF C O S M E T I CS B Y C O N S U M ER S by face cream and hand cream, while exposure to these compounds
A S A SO U R C E OF E X P O S U R E T O P A R A B E N S from other products was clearly lower. These values of SED for partic-
ular parabens, as well as the aggregate exposure to all parabens are
Cosmetics are the source of everyday, common, and usually long-term very close to the values estimated by other authors. In the USA, the
exposure to various substances, being their ingredients, including par- SED values were estimated for MP, EP, and PP as 0.79, 0.13, and
abens. In addition to basic skin care, a rising number of people (espe- 0.34 mg/kg bw/day, respectively, for 23 personal care products
cially women) use make-up products, which constitute as much as assuming 80% dermal absorption (Cowan-Ellsberry & Robison, 2009).
63% of all categories of cosmetics according to the California Safe Similar SED values for these parabens (MP, EP, and PP) were also
Cosmetics Program (CSCP) reports. In recent times, gender- and age- obtained by Guo and Kannan (2013): 0.8, 0.2, and 0.3 mg/kg bw/day.
based stereotypes regarding the use of cosmetics, including make-up For children aged 0–3 years the internal aggregate exposure levels for
products, have become less pronounced. Both adult and adolescent MP, EP, PP, and BP were as follows: 1.01, 0.2, 0.41, and 0.20 mg/kg
(aged 13–17 years) men now use more decorative cosmetics tradi- bw/day, respectively (Gosens, Delmaar, Ter Burg, de Heer, & Schuur,
tionally used by women to improve their appearance (Biesterbos 2014). Because the calculations were performed by us in the present
et al., 2013; Manová, von Goetz, Keller, Siegrist, & Hungerbühler, paper, calculations of SED were made assuming rational daily applica-
2013). Similarly, older people wanting to keep a good appearance in tion of cosmetics (SCCS, 2018), it should be underlined that these
the society continue the use of cosmetics for old age. values may be underestimated, as some people use various kinds of
Due to the fact that paraben-containing cosmetics are commonly cosmetic more frequently during the day than has been described in
used, a large part of the general population is exposed to these com- the SCCS recommendations. For example, among 306 women aged
pounds throughout the lifetime. In a study performed in 1984, Elder 19–65 years from various regions of the USA, the daily mean use of
(1984) estimated parabens presence in >13 200 formulations. The face cream was 2.05 g (Loretz et al., 2005), while among 1059 French
Danish study revealed the presence of these compounds in 99% of women of the same age, the use was much higher and reached 6.6 g
leave-on-the-skin and in 77% of washable cosmetics at a concentra- (Gomez-Berrada, Ficheux, Dahmoul, Roudot, & Ferret, 2017). More-
tion within the range of 0.01% to 0.87% (Rastogi et al., 1995). Simi- over, some women use lipstick from several to a dozen times a day
larly, in the USA, parabens have been found in more leave-on-the-skin and as high as 1% concentration in this product has been reported
cosmetics (60%) than in the washable products (40%) (Guo & Kannan, (CIR, 2008).
2013). The Swedish study showed the presence of parabens in 44% To recognize whether the concentrations of parabens generally
of rinse-off products such as: shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and detected in cosmetic and the internal exposure to these compounds
face cleanser (Yazar, Johnsson, Lind, Boman, & Lidén, 2011). are safe for users of these product in the present study, apart from
MP is found most frequently and in the highest concentrations SED, the MoS was calculated as well (Table 5). The cosmetic prepara-
among all cosmetics containing parabens (Darbre et al., 2004; Guo tion may be recognized as safe when the MoS equals at least
et al., 2014; Pažoureková et al., 2013). It should also be emphasized 100 (SCCS COLIPA noP822010). The performed calculations of the
that the permissible concentration of parabens accepted in cosmetics MoS for the concentrations of MP, ET, PP, and BP occurring in cos-
(0.4% for MP or EP, 0.14% for PP or BP, and 0.8% for the mixture of metics present on the market show that in some cases these com-
these four ingredients) is not always respected by manufacturers pounds are present in cosmetic products at concentrations that do
(Table 3 and Tables S1-S4). In the USA, some personal care products not guarantee safety for their users.
and lipstick tested contained up to 1.0% MP (CIR, 2008). Furthermore, Cosmetics are used starting from infancy. Among the age groups
cosmetics unlabeled or labeled as ‘paraben free’ may contain them. examined (0–4, 5–8, and 9–12 years), the regular use of face cream
Makkliang et al. (2018) reported the presence of parabens in and body lotion was found to be very high in the youngest, although
184

TABLE 3 The ranges of concentrations of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) in various categories of cosmetics

Range of paraben concentrations, %

Type of cosmetic product MP EP PP BP References


Rinse-off skin and hair cleaning products
Shower gel 0.00005–0.4 0.00001–0.015 0.0002–0.097 0.0022–0.0286
Hand wash soap 0.000451–0.0969 0.000084–0.0135 0.000038–0.0917 0.000013–0.000203 Wang & Chang, 1998; CIR Expert Panel, 2008; Uysal & Güray,
Shampoo 0.000145–0.4 0.000002–0.2 0.011–0.4 0.004–0.25 2008; Farajzadeh, Djozan, & Bakhtiyari, 2010;
García-Jiménez, Valencia, & Capitán-Vallvey, 2010; Melo &
Hair conditioner 0.00153–0.4 0.00051–0.6 0.00212–0.5 0.0085–0.25 Queiroz, 2010; Sanchez-Prado, Llompart, Lamas,
Leave-on skin and hair care products Garcia-Jares, & Lores, 2011; Chuto, Chaiyo, Siangproh, &
Body lotion 0.000035–0.63 0.000018–0.54 0.000014–0.4 0.00001–0.24 Chailapakul, 2013; Wang & Zhou, 2013; Youngvises et al.,
2013; Ahn, Park, & Yoo, 2014; Alvarez-Rivera, Llompart,
Face cream 0.01–0.68 0.0000026–0.54 0.000012–0.35 0.00001–0.54 Garcia-Jares, & Lores, 2014; Baranowska, Wojciechowska,
Hand cream 0.0704–0.4 0.001–0.4 0.0571–0.4 0.000072–0.4 Solarz, & Krutysza, 2014; Guo et al., 2014; Makkliang,
Deo non-spray 0.000042–0.3 0.002–0.1 0.000036–0.4 0.00004–0.09 Kanatharana, Thavarungkul, & Thammakhet-Buranachai,
2018; Norseyrihan, Noorashikin, Marinah, Shiuan, & Ruzita,
Hair styling 0.0484–0.3 0.0038–0.1 0.0058–0.1 0.0004–0.1 2018
Make-up products
Liquid foundation 0.1–0.7 0.00006–0.5 0.02–0.4 0.00006–0.2
Make-up remover 0.000011–0.4 0.000002–0.3 0.0062–0.15 0.0328–0.15
Lipstick 0.15–1 0.0002–0.2 0.1–0.62 0.000448–0.1
Eye make-up 0.1–0.5 0.00312–0.49 0.0161–0.5 0.00649–0.3
Mascara 0.165–0.54 0.00002–0.4 0.1–0.32 0.00002–0.21
Eyeliner 0.13–0.6 0.03–0.4 0.05–0.4 0.05–0.2
Oral care cosmetics
Toothpaste 0.000045–0.1633 0.000001–0.01302 0.0133–0.1885 0.015267–0.228783
Mouthwash 0.0000741–0.12 ND 0.000099–0.005 ND

ND, not detectable


The ranges of concentrations of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben(EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben(BP) in various categories of cosmetics estimated on the basis of data collected in the Tables S1-S4
MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.
T A B L E 4 Possible systemic exposure dose (SED) of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) estimated based on these compounds concentrations
detected in various categories of cosmetics1

Estimated daily exposure to Range of SED for particular parabens, mg/kg bw/day
cosmetics normalized by Aggregate SED range for
Type of cosmetic body weight [A], mg/kg all parabens, mg/kg
product bw/day MP EP PP BP bw/day
Rinse-off skin and hair cleaning products
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

Shower gel 2.79 0.000000697–0.00558 0.000000139–0.0002092 0.00000279–0.001353 0.0000307–0.0004 0.000034326–0.0075422


Hand wash soap 3.33 0.00000751–0.001613 0.000001398–0.0002247 0.000000632–0.001527 0.000000216–0.00000338 0.000009756–0.00336808
Shampoo 1.51 0.00000109–0.00302 0.000000015–0.00151 0.000083–0.00302 0.0000302–0.001887 0.000114305–0.009437
Hair conditioner 0.67 0.00000513–0.00134 0.000001708–0.00201 0.0000071–0.001675 0.0000285–0.000837 0.000042438–0.005862
Leave-on skin and hair care products
Body lotion 123.20 0.000020944–0.38808 0.00001108–0.33264 0.00000862–0.2464 0.00000616–0.14784 0.000046804–1,11496
Face cream 24.14 0.0000041–0.08208 0.000000313–0.065178 0.00000145–0.042245 0.00000121–0.06518 0.000007073–0.254683
Hand cream 32.70 0.0115104–0.0654 0.0001635–0.0654 0.009336–0.0654 0.00001177–0.0654 0.02102167–0.2616
Deo non-spray 22.08 0.00000464–0.03312 0.0002208–0.01104 0.00000397–0.04416 0.00000442–0.009936 0.00023383–0.098256
Hair styling 5.74 0.001380–0.00861 0.000109–0.00287 0.00016646–0.00287 0.00001148–0.00287 0.00166694–0.01722
Make-up products
Liquid foundation 7.9 0.00395–0.02765 0.00000237–0.01975 0.00079–0.0158 0.00000237–0.0079 0.00474474–0.0711
Make-up remover 8.33 0.000000458–0.01666 0.000000083–0.012495 0.000258–0.006248 0.001366–0.00625 0.001624541–0.041653
Lipstick 0.90 0.000675–0.0045 0.0000009–0.0009 0.00045–0.00279 0.00000202–0.00045 0.00112792–0.00864
Eye make-up 0.33 0.000165–0.000825 0.0000103–0.0008085 0.0000265–0.000825 0.0000107–0.000495 0.0002125–0.0029535
Mascara 0.42 0.0003465–0.001134 0.000000042–0.00084 0.00021–0.000672 0.000000042–0.000441 0.000556584–0.003087
Eyeliner 0.08 0.000052–0.00024 0.000012–0.00016 0.00002–0.00016 0.00002–0.00008 0.000104–0.00064
Oral care cosmetics
Toothpaste 2.16 0.000000486–0.0017636 0.00000001–0.0001406 0.0001436–0.002036 0.0001649–0.002471 0.000308996–0.0064112
Mouthwash 32.54 0.00001206–0.019524 ND 0.0000161–0.0008135 ND 0.00002816–0.0203375
Total SED for particular parabens, mg/kg bw/day 0.0181360–0.6611396 0.000533658–0.516176 0.011524222–0.4379945 0.0016907–0.31244038 0.04710088–1.92775048
1
The possible systemic exposure doses (SED) of MP, EP, PP, and BP were estimated based on the published concentrations of these compounds detected in various categories of cosmetics (Table 3) and taking
into account the recommendations of the SCCS for calculation of aggregate exposure for preservatives through cosmetic use (SCCS, 2018). The value of SED was calculated using the following formula: SED = A
(mg/kg bw/day) × C (%)/100 × DA (%)/100; where A = estimated daily exposure to a cosmetic product per kg body weight (based upon the amount applied and the frequency of application) according to the
SCCS recommendations for calculation of aggregate exposure for preservatives through cosmetic use (SCCS, 2018); C = paraben concentration (MP, EP, PP or BP) determined in a cosmetic product; DA =
dermal absorption. Because dermal absorption of parabens reported by various authors ranges from 15 to 80% (Cowan-Ellsberry & Robison, 2009; Pedersen et al., 2007) according to the SCCS
recommendations for the safety assessment of cosmetics the rate of 50% was accepted for calculations (SCCS, 2018).
185
186 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

T A B L E 5 Safety evaluation for methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben on volunteers using cosmetics containing parabens. Many studies rev-
(EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) based on aggregated ealed the presence of intact parabens in the skin, adipose tissue,
systemic exposure dose (SED) of these compounds2
blood, serum, plasma, umbilical cord blood, placenta, breast milk of
Aggregated SED3, NOAEL4, lactating women, amniotic fluid, seminal fluid, urine, as well as in
Paraben mg/kg bw/day mg/kg bw/day MoS2 healthy breast and breast tumor tissues, and the highest concentra-
MP 0.0181–0.6611 11.2 618.8–17.0 tion of these compounds mostly reported for MP (Table 6 and 7). In a
EP 0.0005–0.5162 250 500000–484.3 Korean population, EP was found at the highest concentration
PP 0.0115–0.4380 3.3 287.0–7.53 (median, 32.9 μg/L; maximum, 113 μg/L) in the urine, which was
BP 0.0017–0.3124 2 1176.5–6.4 about six-times higher than the concentration of MP (Kang et al.,
2 2016; Kim, Lee, et al., 2018) and exceeded those previously reported
Margin of safety (MoS) was calculated from the formula:
MoS = NOAEL/SED; where NOAEL = no-observed-adverse-effect level worldwide (China, Japan, Belgium, Germany, Greece, Sweden, Den-
and SED = systemic exposure dose. mark, and the US) (summarized by Kim, Lee, et al., 2018) (Table 7).
3
The range of values of SED for MP, EP, PP, and BP was estimated based Among studied populations, higher levels of parabens were detected
on the published concentrations of these compounds detected in various
in children than in adults, in women than in men and in the pregnant
categories of cosmetics daily used (Table 3 and 4).
4
For safety reasons, the lowest values of NOAEL described in the
women than in non-pregnant ones. High concentrations of these
available literature (Oishi, 2002; Hoberman et al., 2008; Boberg, Taxvig, compounds were reported in the amniotic fluid of American women
Christiansen, & Hass, 2010; Vo et al., 2010; SCCP COLIPA no P822010) (the maximum value for PP was 2130 ng/mL) (Philippat et al., 2013) or
were used for the calculation of MoS in cord blood plasma of neonates from USA immigrants (the maximum
value for MP was 210 ng/mL) (Pycke et al., 2015) (Table 6). The
the products marked as intended for infants and safe to use also con- highest maximum concentration of parabens in tissues was found for
tain potentially harmful ingredients, including parabens, to which the BP (26 469 ng/g) in the breast cancer tissue of Indian women
skin of infants may be much more sensitive than adults (Manová et al., (Shanmugan et al., 2010).
2013). In the USA, the dermal intake of parabens from personal care The fact that parabens are detected in the human body in the
products for infants and toddlers was calculated to be in the range of intact form suggests that they come from the dermal application of
0.0586–0.766 mg/kg bw/day, which was three-times higher than for cosmetics. This assumption is based on differences in the metabolism
adult females (0.031 mg/kg bw/day) (Guo & Kannan, 2013). This dis- of parabens supplied via the oral and dermal routes. Parabens entering
proportion was even greater for individual cosmetic products. For the body via the digestive tract are absorbed completely and hydro-
example, according to Gomez-Berrada et al. (2017) the exposure of lyzed to PHBA by carboxylesterases [EC 3.1.1.1] in the intestine, liver,
789 French infants (aged 0–3 years) to balm exceeded 6.3-times the and kidneys (Harville, Voorman, & Prusakiewicz, 2007; Janjua et al.,
exposure value estimated in 1368 adults aged 18–69 years. In the 2007; Jewell et al., 2007; Lakeram, Lockley, Sanders, Pendlington, &
case of other most frequently used cosmetics (cream, shampoo, Forbes, 2007). PHBA along with its glycine, glucuronic acid, ester, and
shower gel, solid soap, cleansing lotion, emollient bath), exposure to sulfuric acid conjugates are excreted in the urine. In humans there are
these preparations was also found to be 6–11-times higher in infants two isoforms of carboxylesterases (hCE) with dominance of hCE1 in
than in adults. Pregnant women are usually unaware of the potential the liver and hCE2 in the small intestine (Imai, 2006); the latter also
unfavorable effects resulting from the use of cosmetics and they con- dominates in the skin (Zhu, Hu, & Zeng, 2005). The substrate specific-
tinue to apply them for the care of their body, while the fetus is par- ity of hCE1 and hCE2 is different, MP and EP are preferentially hydro-
ticularly susceptible to endocrine disrupting agents, like parabens, lyzed by hCE1, and PP, BP, and BzP by hCE2 (Imai, 2006). Both layers
found also in the umbilical cord blood (Pycke, Geer, Dalloul, Abulafia, & of the human skin (epidermal and dermal) can hydrolyze parabens; the
Halden, 2015). epidermal layer contains an esterase that preferentially hydrolyses BP
It should be emphasized that the additional sources of the dermal (Lobemeier, Tschoetschel, Westie, & Hetmann, 1996). The presence
exposure to parabens, not included in the content of the present of parabens in the intact form may result from insufficient levels and
review, are some hygiene articles such as sanitary wipes (including activities of the hCE necessary for a complete hydrolysis of dermally
baby wipes) and toilet paper, but also tickets, currency bills, business applied parabens or their greater resistance to hydrolysis by the skin
cards, food cartons, and newspapers used in everyday life (Liao & esterases (Darbre, 2006; Lobemeier et al., 1996). in vitro studies rev-
Kannan, 2014). ealed that hydrolysis of parabens in the human skin is much slower
than in the human liver, as well as in the skin and liver of rats (Harville
et al., 2007).
6 | A S S O C I A T I O N B E T W E E N T H E US E O F As cosmetics are often applied to large areas of the skin and sev-
COSMETICS AND THE INTACT PARABEN eral products are used on the same body area, considerable amounts
C O N C E N T R A T I O N I N TH E B O D Y of parabens can enter the body and accumulate in various tissues in
the unmetabolized form and, as a consequence, affect health to a
The occurrence and accumulation of parabens in the human body in greater extent than those taken orally (Figure 1). Owing to the lack of
the intact form have been confirmed by numerous studies performed sufficient research showing a direct relationship between the
TABLE 6 The concentrations of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) detected in the human body

Paraben concentration in tissues (ng/g) and in fluids (ng/mL)

Body fluid/tissue Subject/age/population MP EP PP BP References


Skin tissue Japanese adults/n = 3 (application of emulsion on forearm) 6320 (after 1 h) – – – Ishiwatari et al., 2007
Adipose tissue Spanish adults/>16 years/n = 14 <LOD–1.78 (mean 0.60) <LOD–0.07 – – Artacho-Cordon et al., 2017
Chinese women/n = 87 6.3–224.7 18.6–588.1 17.6 0.5–479.0 Shen et al., 2018
Serum Caucasian men/21–36 years/n = 26 *135 Janjua et al., 2007
(application of cream with 2% BP on whole body) (after 3 h)
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

Danish men/18–26 years/n = 60 0.89–59.6 <LOD–20.8 0.23–5.50 <LOD–0.87 Frederiksen, Jřrgensen, &
Andersson, 2011
American children/1–3 years/n = 936 1.6–138 <0.1–2.0 0.2–14.5 – Ye, Zhou, Wong, & Calafat, 2012
American lactating women/18–38 years/n = 34 5.4–42.1 – 5.4–42.1 – Hines et al., 2015
Spanish adults/>16 years/n = 14 0.19–2.13 <LOD – 0.33 <LOD–0.25 <LOD–0.22 Artacho-Cordon et al., 2017
Plasma Norwegian women/48–62 years/n = 332 9.4 3.0 2.0 – Sandanger et al., 2011
Czech men/n = 58 <LOD–16.0 <LOD–0.36 <LOD–0.75 ND Kolatorova-Sosvorova et al., 2017
Czech women/25–34/n = 27 0.073–1.078 0.024–0.157 – Kolatorova et al., 2018
Cord blood plasma Neonates USA immigrants/n = 38 0.89–210 <0.15–3.82 <0.27–31.8 <0.09–0.26 Pycke et al., 2015
American pregnant women/18–45 years/n = 34 ND 0.01–9.95 0.03–78.12 0.01–0.06 Geer et al., 2017
Blood Spanish adults/n = 6 0.82–6.1 3.8–15.0 – <LOD–3.6 Azzouz, Rascón, & Ballesteros,
2016
Indian pregnant women/20–38 years/n = 40 0.89–55.24 <LOD–11.24 1.08–63.58 0.47–10.22 Shekhar et al., 2017
Menstrual blood Spanish women/n = 25 0.9–45.5 0.8–16.0 0.4–9.0 0.4–1.0 Jiménez-Díaz et al., 2016
Placenta Spanish women/n = 50 0.2–10.0 0.2–5.3 0.2–1.7 0.2–0.6 Jiménez-Díaz et al., 2011
Spanish women 11.77 Valle-Sistac et al., 2016
Spanish women/n = 15 0.5–1.5 0.5–2.2 – – Vela-Soria et al., 2017
Amniotic fluid American pregnant women/18–40 years/n = 97 <LOD–827 <LOD–304 <LOD–2130 <LOD–179 Philippat et al., 2013
Indian pregnant women/20–38 years/n = 40 <LOD–44.77 < LOD – 6.07 1.03–60.87 <LOD–13.53 Shekhar et al., 2017
Human milk Milk purchased from Mother's 0.53–3.0 – <LOD–0.33 – Ye, Bishop, Needham, & Calafat,
2008
Milk Bank (San Jose, CA, USA)/n = 4 Schlumpf et al., 2010
Swiss women/32.2 years/n = 54 0.16–4.2 1.03–1.49 1.04–1.8 – Rodríguez-Gómez, Jiménez-Díaz,
Spanish women/n = 10 0.4–3.5 0.2–3.4 0.1–7.5 0.2–1.3 Zafra-Gómez, Ballesteros, &
Navalón, 2014
Spanish women/n = 10 1.2–7.8 0.7–15.0 0.7–43.5 0.6–14.5 Rodríguez-Gómez, Zafra-Gómez,
Camino-Sánchez, Ballesteros, &
Navalón, 2014
(Continues)
187
TABLE 6 (Continued)
188

Paraben concentration in tissues (ng/g) and in fluids (ng/mL)

Body fluid/tissue Subject/age/population MP EP PP BP References


Hines et al., 2015

Rodríguez-Gómez et al., 2015


American women/18–38 years/n = 34 0.5–2.3 – 0.1–0.6 – Azzouz et al., 2016
Spanish women/n = 10 1.26–16.3 0.97–18.1 1.02–12.6 1.06–12.1 Souza et al., 2016
Spanish women/n = 6 1.2–8.1 1.3–5.1 ND <LOD–0.3 Fisher et al., 2017
Brazil women/n = 16 10.8–39.8 11.5–29.6 ND 3.0–8.1 Vela-Soria et al., 2018
Canadian women/>18 years/n = 80 0.22–16.325 0.0023–2.183 0.0277–4.588 ND Dualde, Pardo, Fernández, Pastor,
Spanish women/n = 15 0.9–21 <LOD–4.05 0.4–12 <LOD–0.34 & Yusà, 2019

Spanish women/28–40 years/n = 10 <LOD–7.0 – <LOD–0.76 –


Seminal fluid Danish men/18–26 years/n = 60 <LOD–180 <LOD–5.65 0.39–35.5 <LOD–1.73 Frederiksen et al., 2011
Breast tissue Indian woman/n = 1 26.5 ND ND ND Shanmugan, Ramaswamy,
Radhakrishnan, & Tao, 2010
Breast tissue adjacent English women (mastectomies)/n = 160 tissue samples 0.2–5102.9 0.3–499.7 1.2–2052.7 0.2–95.4 Barr, Metaxas, Harbach, Savoy, &
to tumor Darbre, 2012
Breast tumor tissue Indian women/n = 9 41.0–1719 243–10 608 273–4490 535–26 469 Shanmugan et al., 2010
English women/n = 20 0.8–29.3 0.2–7.4 0.2–10.4 0.5–11.5 Darbre et al., 2004
Chinese women/n = 102 2.1–105.0 17.3–189.5 0.6–1.2 0.5–4533.7 Shen et al., 2018
*
the result may be overstated due to the use of a cream containing 2% BP; ND, not detectable; LOD, limit of detection
MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.
TABLE 7 The median (mean) concentrations of methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) detected in the human urine

Urinary concentrations, ng/mL

Population (age, years) Country MP EP PP BP Median/mean References


Infants (0–2) Korea 7.03 23.6 0.719 <LOD Median Kim et al., 2018
Korea 79.6 2.4 3.4 <LOD Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Belgium* 18.6 1.1 1.1 0.5 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Belgium* 34.8 2.3 2.1 0.8 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Children (3–12) Spain 150.0 8.1 21.5 1.2 Median Casas et al., 2011
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

China* 3.66 0.62 1.49 0.03 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Denmark 3.0 0.4 0 – Median Frederiksen et al., 2013
Korea 10.8 (aged 32.6 (aged 0.511 (aged <LOD (aged Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
3–6 years) 3–6 years) 3–6 years) 3–6 years)
7.81 (aged 24.6 (aged <LOD (aged <LOD (aged Median
7–12 years) 7–12 years) 7–12 years) 7–12 years)
Korea 71.6 8.82 3.61 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Belgium* 18.6 1.1 1.1 0.33 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Belgium* 9.1 0.7 0.8 0.5 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
USA* 51.8 0.15 0.99 – Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Sweden 5.3 0.66 1.9 <LOD Median Larsson et al., 2014
USA 5.4 2.1 <LOD Mean Quirós-Alcalá et al., 2018
USA 44.1 5.1 Mean Quirós-Alcalá et al., 2019
Adolescents (13–18) Korea 5.43 32.9 <LOD <LOD Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Korea 135 21.7 6.54 0.33 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Belgium* 18 1.1 4.2 <LOD Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Adult general population USA 43.9 1.0 9.1 0.5 Median Ye, Bishop, Reidy, Needham, & Calafat, 2006
(≥19) USA 63.5 0 8.7 0 Median Calafat, Ye, Wong, Bishop, & Needham,
2010
Denmark 17.7 1.98 3.6 0.19 Median Frederiksen et al., 2011
USA 112 – 24.2 0.7 Median Smith et al., 2012
China* 19.5 0.09 4.3 0 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Korea 19.5 48.9 3.12 <LOD Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Korea 254 53.4 24.0 1.97 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Germany 42.6 1.0 2.2 <LOD Median Moss et al., 2014
India 6.28 0.25 0.39 – Median Honda, Robinson, & Kannan, 2018
USA 5.8 – 2.4 – Mean Quirós-Alcalá et al., 2018
(Continues)
189
TABLE 7 (Continued)
190

Urinary concentrations, ng/mL

Population (age, years) Country MP EP PP BP Median/mean References


USA 56.5 < LOD 7.1 <LOD Mean Quirós-Alcalá et al., 2019

Spain 104 1.78 14.2 <LOD Mean Artacho-Cordon et al., 2017


Adult men (≥19) USA 27.4 – 3.45 0 Median Meeker et al., 2011
China 3.8 1.4 2.2 – Median Ma et al., 2013
Canada 26 10.4 3.1 0.4 Median Darbre & Harvey, 2014
USA 23.2 – 2.30 – Median Nassan et al., 2017
Korea 112 32.7 47.4 – Median Honda et al., 2018
Adult women (≥19) China 10.0 1.6 7.0 – Median Ma et al., 2013
Denmark 14.0 0.9 1.7 – Median Frederiksen et al., 2013
Canada 25.5 10.2 2.8 0.3 Median Darbre & Harvey, 2014
Sweden 40 2.4 18 <LOD Median Larsson et al., 2014
USA visit 1st/2nd visit 1st/2nd visit 1st/2nd visit 1st/2nd Mean Hines et al., 2015
143/125 5.3/1.0 28.6/41.3 1.4/2.9
Pregnant women (≥19) Spain 191.0 8.8 29.8 2.4 Median Casas et al., 2011
Puerto Rico 153 – 36.7 0.4 Median Meeker et al., 2013
Japan 75.8 7.5 20.2 0.6 Median Shirai, Suzuki, Yoshinaga, Shiraishi, &
Mizumoto, 2013
Korea 209.1 (aged 21.9 (aged 28.8 (aged 0 (aged Median Darbre & Harvey, 2014
22–29 years) 22–29 years) 22–29 years) 22–29 years)
169.9 (aged 65.6 (aged 6.3 (aged 0 (aged
30–39 years) 30–39 years) 30–39 years) 30–39 years)
Korea 39 38 6.6 <LOD Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Japan* 134 7.53 20.2 0.59 Median Kim, Lee, et al., 2018
Canada 75.8 15.13 25.50 3.28 Mean Fisher et al., 2017
USA 94.86 – 1st/3rd trimester 1st/3rd trimester Mean Braun et al., 2014
(Boston) 1st/3rd trimester – 31.8/39.9 0.8/1.1
USA 146/164 1.44 75.3 0.39 Median Pycke et al., 2015
(Brooklyn) 279
*
concentrations of parabens are summarized by Kim et al., 2018b; LOD, limit of detection
MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 191

F I G U R E 1 Schematic representation of the differences between dermal (A) and oral (B) exposure to parabens.* R (alkyl group): methyl (-CH3)
in methylparaben, ethyl (-CH2CH3) in ethylparaben, propyl (-CH2CH2CH3) in propylparaben, butyl (-CH2CH2CH2CH3) in butylparaben. PHBA, p-
hydroxybenzoic acid [Colour figure can be viewed at wileyonlinelibrary.com]

quantity, frequency, type, composition, and combination of cosmetics Janjua et al. (2007) and Janjua et al. (2008) carried out a 2-week
used and the concentration of parabens accumulated in the human single-blinded study on 26 healthy young Caucasian male volunteers
body, depending on age, gender, and ethnicity, it is impossible to who everyday applied to the whole body skin a basic cream without
assess reliably the extent of exposure to parabens via cosmetics. To parabens (control week) and a cream containing 2% (w/w) of BP
our knowledge, only a few studies have been conducted under strict (treatment week) in the same amount (2 mg/cm2). The amount of BP
control or on the basis of volunteer questionnaires related to the use excreted in the urine was 2.6 ± 0.1 mg/24 h in the treatment week
of cosmetics (Table 8). In one of them, Japanese volunteers (two men and this represented 0.32% of the applied dose of paraben (Janjua
and a women) only once applied emulsions (0.15 g each) containing et al., 2008). The concentration of BP in the serum was 135 ± 11 μg/L
0.15, 0.25, and 0.5% (w/v) of MP on a forearm area of 42 cm2, after 3 h from the time of BP-containing cream application (Janjua
whereas another group (one man and 11 women) applied only a lotion et al., 2008). These results showed that this paraben applied to the
(six subjects) or the lotion and emulsion (six subjects) to both forearms skin with cosmetic preparations for everyday use is absorbed and
twice a day for 1 month (Ishiwatari et al., 2007). After an hour from a remains in its intact form; however, the concentration of BP used in
single application of emulsion containing 0.15% MP, ~18% of the these studies exceeded the standards acceptable for use. Several
applied dose of MP was detected in the SC and the amount increased studies were based on volunteer questionnaires about the categories
in a dose-dependent manner; however, after 12 h this concentration and frequency of cosmetics use (Table 8). Although it is not known
decreased to 0.028% of the applied quantity of MP. Repeated applica- whether all the cosmetics used contained parabens and in what quan-
tion of cosmetic products (twice a day for 1 month) was associated tities, a relationship between the use of cosmetics, as reported by vol-
with increased accumulation of the intact MP in the SC with time and unteers, and the concentration of parabens detected in their tissues
the number of cosmetics used during the experimental period, but and fluids was demonstrated. The percentage of parabens identified
dropped to the baseline level after 2 days from stopping the use of and their concentrations determined in the tested samples were the
these products. In the group of volunteers applying the lotion and highest for MP and PP, but they varied depending on the cosmetics
emulsion containing MP on the skin, paraben concentration in the SC used and the subjects (age, gender, pregnancy, and ethnicity).
was higher in comparison to the group applying only the lotion According to Fisher et al. (2017), pregnant Canadian women (n = 31)
(Ishiwatari et al., 2007). reported the use of 1653 personal care products in the past 24 h
192

TABLE 8 Correlations between the use of cosmetics and the concentrations of intact parabens: methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) in the body

Subject (n)/age, years/cosmetics (type, area,


amount, frequency of the use) Body tissue/fluid Paraben concentration and detection, % The main results and conclusions References
2
Japanese volunteers (two men and a woman)/ stratum corneum (SC) MP (pmol/cm ) MP was not hydrolyzed completely and Ishiwatari et al., 2007
emulsion/forearm/single application 1 h 6320 retained in the skin. Paraben retention in
SC increased after repeated application and
12 h 10 with the use of more cosmetics.
Japanese volunteers (1 man and 11 women)/aged 1 week ~ 15 Stopping use of cosmetics caused the
20–50/lotion (n = 6); lotion and emulsion (n = 6)/ 4 weeks ~ 95 decrease in the MP concentration.
forearm/repeated application/twice a day for
1 month 2 days after stopping ~2

Caucasian young male volunteers (n = 26)/cream serum BP ± SEM BP was detected in the serum within a few Janjua et al., 2007
containing 2% BP/whole body/2 mg/cm2/2 weeks 3 h 135 ± 11 μg/L hours after application of body cream on Janjua, Frederiksen,
the whole body. Skakkebæk, Wulf, &
urine total BP ± SEM Maximum BP excretion in urine of all subjects Andersson, 2008
2.6 ± 0.1 mg (24 h) occurred 8–12 h after application of the
cream.
Women who gave birth to child at the University milk ng/L ± SEM (%) The highest frequency of detection of Schlumpf et al., 2010
Women's Hospital Basel (n = 54)/median age MP 2.18 ± 2.02 (25.9) parabens in defatted human milk was for
32.3/questionnaire on cosmetic use MP and decreased with paraben increasing
EP 1.26 ± 0.23 (14.8) lipophilicity.
PP 1.42 ± 0.38 (11.1) The concentration of EP increased with the
BP 0 (58) age of the mother.

Participants in the Norwegian Women And Cancer plasma ng/mL (%) The concentrations of parabens in plasma, Sandanger et al., 2011
Study (n = 332)/aged 48–62/self-reported use of MP 9.4 (63) especially MP, were significantly associated
cosmetics with the use of cosmetic products.
EP 2.4 (22) Repeated use of skin care products increases
PP 4.0 (29) the skin exposure to the intact parabens.
BP –
Pregnant women from Puerto Rico (n = 105)/aged urine ng/L (%) Cosmetics and make-up products were Meeker et al., 2013
18–40/self-reported use of cosmetics in the 48 h MP 140 (100) positively associated with the
prior urine collection concentration of all parabens in urine. The
PP 30 (99.3) use of hand or body lotion was correlated
BP 1.0 (58) with 2–3-times higher paraben
concentrations.
Pregnant women (n = 170) from a fertility clinic in urine 1st trimester μg/L (%) There was a relationship between the number Braun et al., 2014
Boston/self-reported cosmetic use within the past MP 146 (100) of cosmetic products used and the urinary
24 h concentration of parabens.
PP 39.9 (99) The increase in the individual paraben
BP 1.1 (72) concentrations was depended on the type
of cosmetics used.
(Continues)
MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.
TABLE 8 (Continued)

Subject (n)/age, years/cosmetics (type, area,


amount, frequency of the use) Body tissue/fluid Paraben concentration and detection, % The main results and conclusions References
Swedish mother–child couples/(95 mothers aged 45 urine Mothers, Children The level of all parabens was higher in Larsson et al., 2014
and 97 children (47 boys and 50 girls) aged 6–11/ mg/L (%) mothers than the children's urine, but MP
diary on cosmetic use dominated in both groups.
MP 37.8 (100), 6.8 (86) The correlation between the use of cosmetics
PP 13.9 (88), 2.1 (62) and the concentration of parabens in urine
EP 3.1 (95), 0.7 (77) was specific to the type of cosmetic and
tested group.
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

Lactating North Carolina women (n = 34, for milk milk Detection (%) MP was detected in 100% of all samples Hines et al., 2015
n = 9)/aged 18–38/questionnaire on cosmetic use urine milk urine serum (milk, urine, and serum), other parabens
were more often detectable in urine than in
serum MP 100 100 100 serum. In milk samples BP was undetectable.
EP 50 73 38 There were significant correlations between
PP 100 97 56 the type of cosmetic product and the
individual paraben concentration in the
BP 0 81 9 samples tested.
Adult–child pairs participating in the Study of Use of urine μg/L Concentration of MP, PP and BP in the urine Philippat, Bennett, Calafat,
Products and Exposure Related Behavior/adults Adults, Children was positively correlated with the total & Picciotto, 2015
(n = 90) aged 32–45, children (n = 83) aged 4–7/ number of different cosmetic products
questionnaire on cosmetics use MP 59.1–97, 26.5–36 used in the past 24 h in adults.
PP 7.5–16, 2.7–3.5
BP ≤ LOD–0.5, ≤ LOD
mg/L (%)
Caucasian (born in Canada) pregnant women urine MP 33.62 (100) The concentrations of parabens (mainly MP) Fisher et al., 2017
(n = 31)/median age 34/a diary of cosmetic use in urine and milk increased with the
24 h prior to and during the urine collection EP 2.72 (90) frequency of the use of cosmetic products.
PP 5.15 (96) It was higher in the urine in the morning than
at night.
BP 0.17 (72) The correlation between the type of cosmetic
use and the individual paraben
concentration was specific to the sample
Pregnant women (n = 56)/median age 34/cosmetics milk MP 0.22 (82) tested.
used on breast during collection of milk at EP < 0.1 (57)
2–3 months postpartum PP < 0.1 (66)
BP – (<1)
Caucasian male (n = 400)/aged 18–55/questionnaire urine mg/L (%) The use of body care products was associated Nassan et al., 2017
on cosmetic use within the past 6 and 24 h MP 28 (99) with higher urinary concentrations of
parabens, mainly of MP. The highest
PP 2.86 (90) increase in individual paraben level was
BP 0.26 (31) detected within 6 h of urine collection and
was associated with the type of cosmetics
used.
193

(Continues)
194 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

before and during the 24-h spot urine collection, had a significantly
higher geometric mean concentration of parabens in their urine than
the women who did not use cosmetics at this time. Women classified
Kim, Lee, et al., 2018 as ‘High Product Category Users’ (the maximum number of cosmetics
used during 48 h was 82) had 2–4-times higher concentrations of par-
References

abens than ‘Low Product Category Users’. Similarly, other authors


reported that the concentration of paraben in the skin, blood, milk,
and urine increased along with the quantity and frequency of using
cosmetic products, which was most clearly demonstrated for MP
In the Korean population the use of personal

(Ishiwatari et al., 2007; Meeker et al., 2011, Sandanger et al., 2011;


care products was related to the highest

regardless of the age and gender of the


among all parabens EP concentrations

Braun et al., 2014; Larrson et al., 2014; Fisher et al., 2017; Nassan
et al., 2017).
The main results and conclusions

In addition, the association between the type of cosmetic and the


increase in the concentrations of particular parabens in the body in
individual studies has been demonstrated. The use in the past 24 h of
shampoo and hair conditioner by pregnant Caucasian women born in
cosmetic users.

Canada was connected with a higher (72–84%) concentration of BP in


the urine (Fisher et al., 2017). In a study by Philippat et al. (2015)
among adult–child pairs from North California, the use of hair care
products in the past 24 h was also associated with higher urinary con-
centration of BP, but only in children. In adults the use of hair care
products (including hair conditioner, hair gel, hair spray, moose, hair
Paraben concentration and detection, %

bleach, relaxer, and perm) correlated with higher concentration of MP


in the urine (Philippat et al., 2015). A similar correlation between hair
styling products use and MP concentration, but in the serum, was
MP 9.10 (11.1), 11.6 (19.2)
μg/L night (morning) urine

EP 99.1 (19.4), 97.4 (19.2)

reported among lactating North Carolina women (Hines et al., 2015).


PP ≤LOD (0.8), 0.9 (1.8)

In a Korean population, the use of bath products (shampoo, hair con-


BP 20.4 (−), 34.0 (−)

ditioner, body wash) was related to a higher EP concentration in the


Males, Females

urine regardless of the age of the users (Kim, Lee, et al., 2018), which
is consistent with the highest maximal concentration of this com-
pound (0.6%) found in hair conditioner (Table 3). In Caucasian males,
the use of liquid soap and body wash was associated with an increase
in BP concentration in the urine (Nassan et al., 2017). In the users of
bar soap lower urinary concentrations of MP, PP, and BP were found
Body tissue/fluid

in both adults and children (Philippat et al., 2015). There was a strong
association between lipstick use and the concentrations of MP and PP
in the serum of Brazilian women (Tahan, Santos, Albuquerque, & Mar-
urine

tins, 2016) and between the use of make-up products and PP concen-
tration in the breast milk of pregnant Canadian women (Fisher et al.,
2017). In Swedish mothers and children (aged 6–11 years), the use of
(n = 170) aged 2–18, adults (n = 91) aged ≥19/

numerous make-up products was associated with higher concentra-


Korean volunteers, mother–child pairs/children
Subject (n)/age, years/cosmetics (type, area,

tions of MP and PP in the urine (Larrson et al., 2014). The results are
questionnaire on cosmetic use within the

consistent with the reported highest maximal concentration of these


parabens (1% of MP and 0.62% of PP) found in the lipstick and 0.7%,
0.6%, and 0.5% of MP found in the liquid foundation, eyeliner and eye
amount, frequency of the use)

make-up, respectively (Table 3). In women from North California, the


(Continued)

use of colored cosmetics including foundation, blush, eye shadow, eye


previous 1–2 months

LOD, limit of detection

liner, and mascara was correlated with increased BP concentration in


the urine, whereas the use of facial cleaning products was associated
with higher urinary PP concentration (Philippat et al., 2015). Based on
TABLE 8

the analysis of data from a questionnaire, Hines et al. (2015) found


significant correlations between the use of nail polish and MP concen-
tration in the urine and PP concentration in the urine and serum. In
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 195

adults reporting the use of deodorants and mouthwashes, BP concen- study of Okubo et al. (2001) showed that parabens (MP, EP, PP, BP,
tration in the urine was increased (Philippat et al., 2015), but in the IPP, and IBP) had similar relative binding affinity to both of the human
users of the cologne the urinary concentration of MP was higher ERs, ERα and ERβ. MP and EP exerted weaker effects on cell prolifera-
(Braun et al., 2014). The use of toothpaste among Korean adults was tion (maximum at a concentration of ~10−4 M) than PP and BP whose
associated with higher concentrations of MP and PP in the night-time maximum effect was at a concentration of ~10−5 M, which can be
urine (Kim, Lee, et al., 2018). The maximum concentrations of MP, EP, related to greater binding affinity to ERs of parabens with longer side-
and BP (0.54–0.68%) in body lotions and face creams exceeded the chains (Gomez et al., 2005; Okubo, Yokoyama, Kano, & Kano, 2001).
permissible concentrations (Table 3). In American pregnant women In addition to the ability to bind to ERα and ERβ, and to change
the use of lotion was associated with higher concentrations of BP and the expression of estrogen-regulated genes, parabens have been
PP in the urine (Braun et al., 2014; Meeker et al., 2013). In Swedish reported to have an inhibitory effect on the activity of estrogen sul-
mothers and children (aged 6–11 years), the use of lotion was corre- fotransferase in human skin cytosolic fractions and normal human epi-
lated with an increased MP concentration (Larrson et al., 2014). dermal keratinocytes (Prusakiewicz, Harville, Zhang, Ackermann, &
In many published studies in which any data on the use of cos- Voorman, 2007). Similarly to ER affinity, the potency to inhibition of
metics have been collected from the participants, the authors also estrogen sulfation increased along with the paraben ester chain length
suggest that the intact parabens detected in the human body come and for BP the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) in the skin
from the exposure of the skin to the cosmetic products. Among the cytosol was 37 ± 5 μM. Recently, it was reported that parabens inter-
studies performed in the USA (Ye et al., 2006), Denmark (Casas et al., fered with estrogen metabolism in human embryonic kidney (HEK-
2011), Spain (Frederiksen et al., 2011), Japan (Shirai et al., 2013) or 293) cells by inhibition of the activity of 17β-hydroxysteroid dehydro-
China (Ma et al., 2013), the highest concentrations of MP were found genase types 1 and 2, which regulate the local balance between
in pregnant women from Spain (191 ng/mL) and Japan (62.6 ng/mL). potent and weakly active estrogen levels (Engeli et al., 2017).
A significantly lower paraben concentration was found in the urine Studies performed in vivo on immature and adult ovariectomized
samples of young adult Chinese (Ma et al., 2013). Despite the lack of CD1 mice and immature female Wistar rats showed higher
data on cosmetics use (type, amount, and frequency) among the par- estrogenicity of parabens than reported in vitro (Lemini et al., 2003).
ticipants, the authors found a relationship between the concentration In animals subcutaneously treated for 3 days with MP, EP, PP, and BP
of intact paraben in the urine and the rate of the use of cosmetics in in doses ranging from 3.62 to 1086 μmol/kg bw caused an increase in
these countries. In Denmark, Spain, and Japan, the rate of the use of uterine weight. The median effective dose (ED50) of parabens to
cosmetics per capita was 7.1-times higher than in China and 1.4-times increase uterine weight in CD1 mice ranged from 18 to 74 mg/kg, and
higher than in the USA (Ma et al., 2013). Significantly higher concen- that of E2 was 7 μg/kg; in Wistar rats, the ED50 ranged from 33 to
trations of MP and PP in the urine have been demonstrated in females 338 mg/kg. The estrogenicity of MP and EP at doses close to the
compared to males in both adults and adolescents (Calafat et al., acceptable daily intake (0–10 mg/kg bw for the sum of these com-
2010; Heffernan et al., 2015; Honda et al., 2018; Nassan et al., 2017; pounds) was also reported by Sun et al. (2016). After 3 days of
Smith et al., 2012). Smith et al. (2012) showed that the concentrations intragastric administration with 20 mg/kg bw/day of MP and 4 and
of MP and PP were 4.6- and 7.8-times, respectively, higher in women 20 mg/kg bw/day of EP, the uterine weight in immature female
than in men. These results may be related to markedly more frequent Sprague-Dawley rats significantly increased. Although these results
use of a greater number of personal care and make-up products by cannot be directly extrapolated to humans exposed to parabens via
females than by males (Biesterbos et al., 2013; Manová et al., 2013). their application with cosmetics to the skin, the concentration of MP
(17635 ± 5592 ng/mL) in the urine of rats treated with the same dose
of MP (20 mg/kg bw/day), in which in vivo estrogenic effects were
7 | U N F A V O R A B LE H E A L T H E FF E C T S O F observed (Sun et al., 2016), was similar to the highest urinary level of
E X P O S U R E T O P A R A B E N S V I A C O S M ET I C S MP reported in woman (15 100 ng/mL) and in men (23 200 ng/mL)
(Smith et al., 2012). The authors using molecular docking simulation,
Many results of in vitro and in vivo studies (summarized by Harvey & showed the interaction between parabens and the pocket that binds
Everett, 2006; Darbre & Harvey, 2008, 2014; Boberg et al., 2010; to the human α-ER (hERα) agonist. They suggested that estrogenic
ska, 2018) indicate that
Nowak, Ratajczak-Wrona, Górska, & Jabłon activity of MP and EP demonstrated in vivo at doses close to the
parabens possess estrogenic activity. The estrogen activity of para- acceptable daily intake in humans may be associated with estrogen-
bens increases with increasing alkyl chain length, branching in the related diseases (Smith et al., 2012).
alkyl chain, and the presence of an aromatic ring in the chain There are many reports suggesting a relationship between the
(Darbre & Harvey, 2008). Exposure of estrogen-dependent human presence of parabens in the breast tissue in their intact form and the
breast cancer cells (MCF-7) to parabens (MP, EP, PP, and BP) at con- increased risk of the breast tumor development (Darbre, 2001, 2006;
centrations of ≥10−6 M resulted in increased expression of estrogen- Harvey, 3003; Darbre et al., 2004, Harvey & Everett, 2006, 2012;
regulated genes and cell proliferation to a similar extent as 17β- Darbre & Harvey, 2008, 2014). Because of the area (the upper outer
estradiol (E2) at a concentration of 10−10 M, and these effects were quadrant of the breast) of tumor development and a lot of evidence
mediated through estrogen receptors (ERs) (Byford et al., 2002). The that intact parabens accumulated in the body come from cosmetics, it
196 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

has been speculated that the presence of parabens in the breast T A B L E 9 Calculated estrogenic potential of parabens:
tumor is associated with the application of antiperspirant/deodorant methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and
butylparaben (BP) detected in the breast tissue
products under the arms and on the adjacent area of the breast. The
concentrations of parabens detected in breast tumor tissues differ sig- Range of concentrations*
nificantly depending on the ethnicity of women and the method used
Estrogen equivalents of
for measurement of these compounds. The concentration of parabens Breast tissue Paraben ng/g tissue measured paraben, pg/g
determined in Indian and Chinese women dramatically exceeded the Normal MP 0.2–5102.9 2 × 10−4–5.1
concentration determined in English women (Table 6). For example,
EP 0.3–499.7 1.8 × 10−3–3.0
the maximum concentration of BP in English women (n = 20) was
PP 1.2–2052.7 1.2 × 10−2–20.5
11.5 ng/g (Darbre et al., 2004), whereas in Chinese (n = 102) and
BP 0.2–95.4 6.1 × 10−3–2.9
Indian (n = 9) women the maximum BP concentrations were 4 533.7
Tumor MP 0.8–1719 8 × 10−4–1.7
and 26 469 ng/g, respectively (Shanmugan et al., 2010; Shen et al.,
EP 0.2–10 608 1.2 × 10−3–63.5
2018). The authors included in their study one healthy breast tissue
sample (Shanmugan et al., 2010) in which they detected only MP at a PP 0.2–4490 2 × 10−3–44.9

relatively low concentration (26.5 ng/g) compared to the concentra- BP 0.5–26 496 0.015–802.1

tions found in tumor tissues (range 41.0–1719 ng/g). Barr et al. (2012) Estrogenic potency of MP, EP, PP, and BP is lower than that of estradiol
measured the concentration of parabens in unaffected breast tissues by 1 000 000, 167 000, 100 000, and 33 000, respectively (Darbre &
adjacent to tumor (n = 160) and found a wide range of concentrations Harvey, 2014; Harvey & Everett, 2006). Calculated values are estrogen
equivalents comparing the concentrations measured in the human breast
especially for MP (0.2–5102.9 ng/g) and PP (1.2–2052.7 ng/g), while
tissue. Estrogenous concentration of estradiol in normal breast tissue is
the concentration of BP was the lowest (0.2–95.4 ng/g). As estrogenic 55.3 pg/g, whereas its concentration in human breast tumor tissue is
activity of parabens is known to increase with an increase in the 348 pg/g (Clarke, Leonessa, Welch, & Skaar, 2001).
*
length of the linear alkyl chain from MP to BP, the presence of BP at the range of concentration was estimated on the basis of results
presented in Table 6
the highest concentration in cancerous tissues (Shen et al., 2018;
Shanmugam et al., 2010) and its lack in the healthy breast tissue
(Shanmugan et al., 2010), as well as the lowest amount (in comparison account. However, considering the more frequent use of the body
to other parabens) in unaffected breast tissues adjacent to tumor care lotion together with many other cosmetic products such as body
(Barr et al., 2012) (Table 6) suggest it may be involved in tumor sprays, breast-firming creams, breast-enhancing creams, shaving cre-
development. ams, aftershave lotions, depilators, cellulite reducing creams all con-
Based on the comparison analysis of the concentrations of partic- taining parabens, the estrogenic potential could be much higher.
ular paraben esters measured in unaffected breast tissues and in According to a study by Fisher et al. (2017) pregnant Canadian women
breast cancer tissues, converted to estrogen equivalents (Table 9), recorded the use of 1653 cosmetic products (the minimum number
according to the previously published calculations (Darbre & Harvey, was three and the maximum was 82 per person) during 48 h. Thus,
2014; Harvey & Everett, 2006), it may be concluded that the highest based on the above evaluations of the estrogenic potential of para-
concentrations of BP (802.1 pg/g tissue) detected in breast tumor tis- bens and taking into account the possible real daily cosmetics applica-
sue exceeds 14.5-times the endogenous estrogen level of 55.3 pg/g tion, it can be concluded that the use of cosmetic preparations by
reported by Clarke et al. (2001) in human breast tissue. According to women may be a source of exposure to parabens in amounts
calculations performed by Harvey and Everett (2006) and Darbre and possessing estrogenic action. Despite many published controversial
Harvey (2014) significant estrogenic potential of parabens (>20% of articles on the lack of a direct relationship between the use of cos-
the endogenous estrogen level) can be achieved from a single applica- metics containing parabens on the breast and the increased risk of
tion of body care lotion to the breast/chest area. In the present paper, breast cancer, the growing amount of data on the presence of para-
these calculations have been expanded to include basic hygiene prod- bens in breast tissue in the recent years (determined with the use of
ucts used on the breast and underarms such as shower gel and deo much more sensitive methods) should be recognized as alarming
non-spray, as well as sunscreen lotion/creams with addition to body regarding the safety of the common use of these compounds as pre-
lotions (Table 10). The evaluated estrogenic potential of MP, EP, PP, servatives in cosmetics. The high concentrations of parabens present
and BP (Table 10) was comparable or even markedly higher of that in the blood of pregnant women (Shekhar et al., 2017), as well as in
reported by Darbre and Harvey (2014). It is important to underline umbilical cord blood (Geer et al., 2017; Pycke et al., 2015), placenta
that estrogenic potential of parabens may be reached even if it is cal- (Jiménez-Díaz et al., 2011; Vela-Soria et al., 2017), or amniotic fluid
culated based on the use of only chosen cosmetics applied on the (Philippat et al., 2013; Shekhar et al., 2017) (the highest concentration
chest and around the armpits (Table 10). It should be added that the of 2130 ng/mL for PP was noted in the amniotic fluid of American
calculations presented in the present review were carried out women) (Table 6) may be associated with the unconscious exposure
according to the recommendations of the SCCS (2018) for estimation of fetuses in the womb of mothers to the adverse action of parabens.
of the daily exposure to cosmetic products and the minimum number It should be considered that estrogenic potential of parabens present
of cosmetics used by average women populations was taken into at the same concentration may be about 30-times higher in children
T A B L E 1 0 Calculated estrogenic potential for human dermal absorption of parabens: methylparaben (MP), ethylparaben (EP), propylparaben (PP), and butylparaben (BP) in cosmetics most often
applied to the breasts and around them5

Estrogen equivalents absorber

Estrogen equivalents absorbed per


Range of paraben concentration Amount of paraben daily Estrogen equivalents of day assuming on area 500 cm3,
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS

Paraben Type of cosmetic in cosmetics. %6 applied to the breast, mg Dermal absorption, mg absorbed paraben, ng pg/g breast tissue
MP body lotion 0.000035–0.63 0.0399–718.2 0.01995–359.1 0.01995–359.1 0.0399–718.2
deo non-spray 0.000042–0.3 0.042–300 0.021–150 0.021–150 0.042–300
sunscreen 0.000036–0.26 0.036–260 0.018–130 0.018–130 0.036–260
shower gel 0.00005–0.4 0.00036–2.86 0.00018–1.43 0.00018–1.43 0.00036–2.86
EP body lotion 0.000018–0.54 0.02052–615.6 0.01026–307.8 0.0614–1843.1 0.1228–3686.2
deo non-spray 0.002–0.1 2–100 1–50 5.988–299.4 11.976–598.8
sunscreen 0.0213–0.54 21.3–540 10.65–270 63,77–1616.8 127.54–3233.6
shower gel 0.00001–0.015 0.0000715–0.10725 0.000036–0.0536 0.00021–0.321 0.00042–0.642
PP body lotion 0.000014–0.4 0.01596–456 0.008–228 0.08–2280 0.16–4560
deo non-spray 0.000036–0.4 0.036–400 0.018–200 0.18–2000 0.36–4000
sunscreen 0.00005–0.3 0.05–300 0.025–150 0.25–1500 0.5–3000
shower gel 0.0002–0.097 0.00143–0.69355 0.0007–0.347 0.007–3.47 0.014–6.94
BP body lotion 0.00001–0.24 0.0114–273.6 0.0057–136.8 0.1727–4145 0.3454–8290
deo non-spray 0.00004–0.09 0.04–90 0.02–45 0.6061–1363.64 1.212–2727.3
sunscreen 0.00001–0.54 0.01–540 0.005–270 0.1515–8181.82 0.303–16363.6
shower gel 0.0022–0.0286 0.01573–0.2045 0.0079–0.1023 0.2394–3.1 0.479–6.2
5
To evaluate the amount of particular parabens applied daily to the skin it has been recognized according to the RIVM (2006; available at: https://www.rivm.nl/bibliotheek/rapporten/320104001.pdf) that 1 mg
of body lotion, deo non-spray, sunscreen, and shower gel is applied to the 1 cm2 of the skin. Taking into account that body lotion, deo non-spray, and sunscreen are leave-on-the-skin products (retention
factor = 1), whereas shower gel is a rinse-off-the skin product (retention factor = 0.01), and the daily frequency of their application is 2.28, 2, 2, and 1.43 (SCCS, 2018), respectively, it has been estimated that
the daily application of these cosmetics on the breast area (500 cm2; Darbre & Harvey, 2014) reaches 1140, 1000, 1000, and 715 mg, respectively. Estrogenic potency of MP, EP, PP, and BP is lower than that
of estradiol by 1 000 000-, 167 000-, 100 000-, and 33 000-times, respectively (Darbre & Harvey, 2014; Harvey & Everett, 2006). Calculated values are estrogen equivalents comparing the concentrations
measured in human breast tissue. Estrogenous concentration of estradiol in normal breast tissue is 55.3 pg/g, whereas its concentration in human breast tumor tissue is 348 pg/g (Clarke et al., 2001).
6
The ranges of concentrations of parabens in body lotion, deo non-spray, sunscreen and shower gel were taken from the published literature (CIR, 2008; Melo & Queiroz, 2010; Haunschmidt, Buchberger,
Christian, Klampfl, & Hertsens, 2011; Sanchez-Prado et al., 2011; Baranowska et al., 2014; Youngvises et al., 2013; Wang & Zhou, 2013; Alvarez-Rivera et al., 2014; Guo et al., 2014; Norseyrihan et al., 2018)
197
198 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

than in adults when the concentration of endogenous estradiol in the encoding proteins involved in the stress response, cell cycle, DNA
blood of women (180 pM) exceeds 32-times the child's concentration damage, inflammation, and fatty acid metabolism. Therefore, parabens
(5 pM) (Boberg et al., 2010). Except from fetal exposure to parabens can induce oxidative stress, DNA damage, cell apoptosis, and disrup-
through the transport of these compounds via the umbilical cord, the tions of lipid and endocrine metabolisms (Bereketoglu & Pradhan,
risk of parabens reaching infants via breast milk can also be high. The 2019).
concentrations of parabens in the milk of lactating women are col- Parabens with estrogenic and anti-androgenic properties (Boberg
lected in Table 6. et al., 2010; Chen et al., 2007; Darbre & Harvey, 2008; Oishi, 2001,
In addition to ERs, parabens can act as antagonists of androgen 2002) influencing the level of thyroid hormones (Berger et al., 2018;
receptors (Chen et al., 2007; Satoh, Nonaka, Ohyama, & Nagai, 2005). Koeppe, Ferguson, Colacino, & Meeker, 2013) can also promote
MP, PP, and BP at 10 μM, inhibited testosterone-induced transcrip- adipogenesis. Hu et al. (2013) reported the adipogenic effect of para-
tional activity in HEK-293 cells by 40%, 33%, and 19%, respectively bens (BP and BzP) on murine 3 T3-L1 and human adipose-derived
(Chen et al., 2007). Anti-androgenic properties of parabens may be multipotent stromal cells (hADSC) mediated through glucocorticoid
the cause of male reproductive disorders observed under the influ- receptor and/or peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma
ence of these compounds in animal models (Oishi, 2001, 2002) (PPARγ). Parabens were also shown to modulate the mRNA expres-
because androgens play an important role in the development of the sion of adipokines, adiponectin, and leptin and to promote adipose
male reproductive system, and in spermatogenesis and maturation of conversion of human adipose-derived multipotent stromal cells
spermatozoa. In rats exposed to PP in a dose comparable to the (Hu et al., 2013). The same authors reported that in an in vitro mouse
upper-limit of daily paraben intake (10 mg/kg bw/day) acceptable in experimental model, MP and BP also induced changes in gene expres-
the EU and Japan, the serum testosterone concentration and daily sion related to adipocyte differentiation and lipogenesis in adipose tis-
sperm production were decreased (Oishi, 2002). The changes in the sue (Hu et al., 2016). Moreover, exposure to both parabens
concentration of testosterone in the serum and in daily sperm produc- significantly decreased procollagen type 1 N-terminal propeptide
tion, as well as the decrease in the absolute and relative weights of (P1NP) level in the serum but had no effect on C-terminal telopeptide
epididymides were detected in rats exposed to 0.1% BP (Oishi, 2001). of type I collagen (CTX-I) level, which suggests their negative influ-
Oral exposure of adult male Sprague-Dawley rats to BP in the doses ence on bone formation, but not on bone resorption. Kolatorova et al.
of 0, 10, 100, and 1000 mg/kg/day for 28 days induced an epigenetic (2018) found significantly higher concentrations of parabens in the
effect on spermatogenic germ cells in the testis (Park, Nah, Lee, Oh, & plasma of healthy women with a high body mass index (BMI) (median
Gye, 2012). The subcutaneous exposure of young male rats to BP had MP 353 pg/mL and PP 84 pg/mL) as compared to those with lower
a toxic impact on the reproductive system, including an increase in BMI (median MP 255 pg/mL and PP 59 pg/mL). Positive associations
the prostate relative weight and changes in sperm morphology, as well were found between the plasma concentration of MP and adipsin
as in the histology of the sexual organs (Garcia et al., 2017). These level, and negative associations between MP and glucagon, leptin, and
alterations could affect the capacity for fertilization of the animals. plasminogen activator inhibitor 1 (PAI-1) levels. The above results sug-
The relationship between BP concentration in the urine and damage gest that parabens may play a role in the development of obesity,
to sperm DNA was also demonstrated in American male partners which is a risk factor for GDM. Parabens may influence glucose
(n = 137) attending an infertility clinic (Meeker et al., 2011). Similarly, metabolism through estrogen-dependent signaling and alter the func-
among 501 male partners of couples planning to become pregnant tion of pancreatic β cells. Exposure to these compounds during preg-
the urinary concentrations of MP, EP, and BP were associated with nancy can increase insulin resistance and subsequently the risk of
diminished sperm count and several sperm motility parameters (Smarr GDM. According to Li et al. (2019), higher urinary levels of PP and
et al., 2018). Furthermore, the positive association between the uri- summed estrogenic activity of parabens (MP, EP, PP, BP, and BzP)
nary level of BP and XY18 disomy and between PP and chromosome were significantly associated with an increasing prevalence of GDM in
13 disomy was found in 156 Polish men who attended an infertility overweight/obese pregnant women.
clinic for diagnostic purposes (Jurewicz et al., 2017). The In addition, in some cases exposure to parabens via cosmetics
aneuploidogenic properties of BP and its ability to induce polyploidy may cause allergic reactions (Cashman & Warshaw, 2005; Lee-Sarwar
were shown in CHO-K1 Chinese hamster ovary cells (Tayama, et al., 2018;Savage et al., 2012 ; Spanier et al., 2014). In the partici-
Nakagawa, & Tayama, 2008). pants (aged 6–18 years) of the National Health and Nutrition Exami-
Recently, research involving zebrafish, which is genetically similar nation Survey (NHANES), performed in the USA, the urinary
to humans, are becoming very popular. The comprehensive study con- concentrations of MP, PP, and BP were positively associated with aer-
ducted by Bereketoglu and Pradhan (2019) showed many significant oallergen sensitization (Savage et al., 2012; Spanier et al., 2014). Fur-
adverse outcomes of MP and PP on early developmental stages of thermore, there was a negative correlation between the
zebrafish. Both MP at a concentration of ≥100 μM and PP at ≥10 μM concentration of MP and nonatopic asthma or wheeze and lack of
were toxic to the embryos in a concentration-dose manner and led to association between PP concentration and atopic asthma or wheeze
developmental abnormalities such as spinal defects, pericardial edema, (Savage et al., 2012). There was no consistent relationship in a study
and pigmentation defects, but PP showed higher toxicity. Further- of mother–child pairs (n = 467) between the concentration of paraben
more, 1 μM MP and 10 μM PP affected the expression of genes in the maternal plasma or in the urine of children at age 3 and 4 years
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 199

and pediatric asthma, recurrent wheezing or allergic sensitization 0.05%) as compared to the ones used by other authors (Dubey et al.,
(Lee-Sarwar et al., 2018). In a more recently published review article, 2017; Handa et al., 2006; Ishiwatari et al., 2007). In our more recent
the authors recognized parabens as one of the least allergenic preser- study, lower MP concentrations of parabens (MP in combination with
vatives (Fransway et al., 2019). PP to reflect more real exposure of the skin to these compounds)
were used and we also found a significant impact on cell survival and
proliferation, as well as on collagen biosynthesis in human skin fibro-
8 | E F F EC T O F P A RA B E N S O N CU L T U R ED blasts (results in preparation for publication).
SKIN CELLS: KERATINOCYTES AND The topical application of MP (400 mg/mL) to mouse dorsal skin
FIBROBLASTS for 8 weeks (3 times/week) resulted in a cell senescence phenotype
(Cha et al., 2015). The skin in MP-treated mice was dry and pale, with
To date, there have been few reports on the effect of MP on increased fine wrinkles and roughness compared with the control
human skin cells cultures and the main components of the skin mice, which could be associated with a decrease in collagen type I.
(Table 11). Most studies conducted on skin keratinocytes and fibro- Handa et al. (2006) proved that MP (0.003–0.3%) may intensify
blasts demonstrated toxic effects of MP used in the concentrations the harmful influence of UVB radiation on human skin keratinocytes,
range of 0.001% to 0.3%, on cell viability and proliferation (Cha which leads to increased production of free radicals, synthesis of nitric
et al., 2015; Dubey et al., 2017; Handa et al., 2006; Ishiwatari oxide, lipid peroxidation, and oxidative stress (Fisher et al., 2002;
et al., 2007; Majewska et al., 2017; Smith & Alexander, 2005). An Matsumura & Ananthaswamy, 2004). Furthemore, MP can also con-
increase in the number of apoptotic and necrotic cells was noted tribute to pigmentation changes in the skin, which in turn can even
with exposure to MP (Dubey et al., 2017; Ishiwatari et al., 2007; lead to skin cancer (Alexiades-Armenakas, 2008). Similar results were
Majewska et al., 2017). In turn, Carvalho et al. (2012) and Spindola observed in keratinocyte cultures treated with MP (concentration in
et al. (2018) reported a slight toxic effect of MP on fibroblasts at a the range of 5 × 10−4–0.01%) exposed to UVB (0.6 mW/cm2) (Dubey
concentration <1%. et al., 2017) (Table 11).
Ishiwatari et al. (2007) treated neonatal human epidermal The above results suggest that long-term skin exposure to para-
keratinocytes with 0.001% and 0.003% MP and reported, in addition bens alone, and especially together with UVB, to which the general
to the decreased cell viability and proliferation, reduced expression of population is exposed during the lifetime, may lead to the develop-
hyaluronan 1 and 2 synthases and type IV collagen at the mRNA level. ment of different unfavorable changes in the skin.
It can therefore be assumed that synthesis of HA, the key molecule
responsible for maintaining skin moisture (Papakonstantinou et al.,
2012) and collagen, which is the most abundant structural protein 9 | STRATEGIES TO REDUCE ADVERSE
responsible for the skin's tensile strength and mechanical properties H E A L T H E F F E C T S D U E T O S K I N E X P OS U R E
(Frantz et al., 2010; Gelse et al., 2003; Quan & Fisher, 2015; Varani TO COSMETICS CONTAINING PARABENS
et al., 2006), can be also reduced. In the studies on the influence of
MP on the human skin fibroblasts, conducted by our research team, Today, not only researchers but also a rising number of consumers
we also found a significant decrease in the expression of the main skin question the safety of parabens in cosmetics. Much attention has
collagen types I, III and VI at both the gene and protein levels been attracted to cosmetics that do not contain parabens and are
(Majewska et al., 2017). The inhibition of collagen biosynthesis dem- marked as paraben free. Harley et al. (2016) reported a reduction in
onstrated in our study could be caused, at least partially, by the MP- the urinary concentrations of MP (by 43.9%) and PP (by 45.4%) in
induced inhibition (in a dose-dependent manner) of the activity of 100 adolescent girls who switched cosmetics containing parabens to
prolidase, which catalyzes the last step in collagen degradation pro- paraben-free products for just 3 days. However, despite being
cess and recovers proline to collagen re-synthesis (Surazynski, Miltyk, unmarked, cosmetic products may contain parabens (Dodson et al.,
Palka, & Phang, 2008). Furthermore, activation of pro-matrix 2012; Makkliang et al., 2018) or other chemical preservatives, such as
metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 under the influence of MP suggests isothiazolinones, formaldehyde or halogen organic compounds, with
increased collagen degradation (Majewska et al., 2017). Cha et al. undesirable effects on the skin (Halla et al., 2018; Hectorne &
(2015) reported a relationship between decreased collagen type I Franshway, 2006; Jong et al., 2007). These compounds can more
expression and the increased expression of MMP-1 in MP-treated often cause allergic reactions, and some of them, like formaldehyde,
human fibroblasts (at a concentration of 0.01–0.04%) and in mouse can be dangerous to health because of its causal relationship with
skin after topical application of MP (400 mg/mL). Although MMP-1 cancer (Sasseville, 2004). In order to minimize the use of harmful syn-
possesses specific activity against collagen type I, it was reported that thetic substances, natural preservatives of plant origin have been the
also MMP-2, in addition to its capacity to degrade gelatin, is involved subject of intensive scientific research and attract the attention of the
in degradation of native type I collagen (Aimes & Quigley, 1995). cosmetics industry.
Therefore, increased activity of MMP-2, under the influence of MP, Plant extracts and essential oils are added to many cosmetics and
may be associated with decreased collagen concentration in skin cells. personal hygiene products aimed at purifying, nutrition, beautifying,
The concentrations used in our study were higher (0.01%, 0.03%, and and perfuming of the human body mainly because of their well-known
200 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

TABLE 11 The impact of methylparaben (MP) on cultured skin cells

Skin cells MP concentration, % Main results References


Neonatal keratinocytes (NHEKs) 0.001 # cell proliferation Ishiwatari et al.,
0.003 " number of apoptotic and necrotic cells, cell 2007
aging process
# expression of hyaluronian synthase (−1 and
−2) and type IV collagen mRNA
" expression of HSP27 and involucrin mRNA
Keratinocytes (HaCaT) exposed to UVB 0.003 # cell viability Handa et al., 2006
0.03 " oxidative stress, NO production, lipid
peroxidation, activity of transcription
0.3 factors NF-κB and AP-1
Keratinocytes (HaCaT) 5 × 10−4–0.01 MP # cell viability Dubey et al., 2017
irradiated with UVB " number of apoptotic cells: "expression of
(0.6 mW/cm2) pro-apoptotic (Bax, Apaf-1,
cytochrome C, caspase-3, caspase-12) and
#expression of anti-apoptotic Bcl-2
" intracellular ROS generation, disruption of
mitochondrial membrane integrity, lipid
peroxidation and DNA damage
Fibroblasts (CRL1747) 0.01 # cell viability and proliferation Majewska et al.,
0.03 " expression of pro-apoptotic caspase-3 and 2017
Bax
0.05 # expression of anti-apoptotic Bcl-2
# collagen biosynthesis, expression of
collagen type I, III and VI mRNA
# prolidase activity
" MMP-2 activity
Fibroblasts (CCD1072Sk) 0.01 no significant cytotoxic effects on cells Spindola et al., 2018
0.1
1.0
Fibroblasts (HDFs) 0.001 # cell viability (>0.01% MP) Carvalho et al., 2012
0.01 " number of apoptotic and necrotic cells
(1.0% MP)
0.1 " level of genotoxicity (1.0% MP)
1.0
Fibroblasts (nHDFs) 0.01 # the growth capability Cha et al., 2015
0.02 " expression of cellular senescence markers:
p53, p21WAF1, and p16INK4A
0.04 " intracellular ROS levels
# antioxidant enzymes, GPx1 (due to the
reduction of c-Jun expression) and SOD
mRNA
# ARE activity (anti-oxidant response
element)
# COL1A1 expression
" MMP1 expression
Embryonic mouse fibroblasts (Balb/C 3 T3 0.2 # cell viability Smith & Alexander,
clone A31) 0.4 2005
0.6

AP-1, activating protein 1; Apaf-1, apoptotic protease-activating factor-1; ARE, anti-oxidant response element; COL1A1, collagen type I α1 chain; GPx1,
glutathione peroxidase; (n)HDF, (neonatal) human dermal fibroblasts; HSP27, Heat shock protein 27; NHEKs, normal human epidermal keratinocytes; NF-κ
B, nuclear factor κ-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells; NO, nitric oxide; p53, tumor protein 53; ROS, reactive oxygen species; SOD, superoxide
dismutase

properties such as: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, protective against Ribeiro et al., 2015). In addition to their many beneficial properties,
UV, anti-aging, softening, maintaining skin moisture, reducing skin dis- the main advantage of many of them is their antibacterial activity.
coloration, stimulating wound healing, and having a pleasant aroma Several studies have shown the preservative effectiveness of natural
(Fatima, Alok, Agarwal, Singh, & Verma, 2013; Pawar et al., 2011; products such as: thymol, cinnamaldehyde, allyl isothiocyanate, citric
SAFETY OF PARABENS IN COSMETICS 201

acid, ascorbic acid, rosemary extract or rosemary acid, lavender, tea Krętowski, Nazaruk, & Cechowska-Pasko, 2014). Furthermore,
tree, lemon oil, and chamomile oil, in cosmetic preparations (Dreger & anethole, as for many other components of essential oils, is a lipophilic
 ska, Sikora, &
Wielgus, 2013; Fatima et al., 2013; Kunicka-Styczyn small and non-polar molecule that can easily penetrate the skin
Kalemba, 2009; Sarkic & Stappen, 2018). Among various mechanisms (Sarkic & Stappen, 2018).
of essential oils antibacterial activity, disruption of permeabilization of Plant extracts are a valuable source of many other natural anti-
membranes is the most known (Dreger & Wielgus, 2013). The oils and microbial substances such as polyphenols and flavonoids (Cowan,
their components are often used externally in skin creams, lotions, 1999; Mukherjee, Maity, Nema, & Sarkar, 2011). In addition to their
cleansers and oils, mouthwash products, toothpastes, decorative cos- preservative and antioxidant properties, our research team found
metics, lipsticks, shampoos, soaps, and perfumes. Some of them have that some of them also have the ability to stimulate collagen bio-
been proven to be effective preservatives and others act synergisti- synthesis in human skin fibroblasts (Galicka & Nazaruk, 2007;
cally with synthetic preservatives (Herman, Herman, Domagalska, & Nazaruk & Galicka, 2014), and what is more, to prevent the nega-
ska et al., 2009; Kunicka-
Młynarczyk, 2013; Kunicka-Styczyn tive effects of MP on collagen expression at the mRNA and protein
 ska, Sikora, & Kalemba, 2011; Maccioni, Anchisi, Sanna,
Styczyn levels (results in preparation for publication), which have been dem-
Sardu, & Dessi, 2002; Muyima, Zulu, Bhengu, & Popplewell, 2002; onstrated in our previous study (Majewska et al., 2017) and by Cha
Nostro et al., 2002, 2004). Cinnamon oil, used at the concentration of et al. (2015).
2.5%, has been shown to have 3.5-times stronger antimicrobial activ- Seo et al. (2002) proposed chitosan and Inula helenium L. extract
ity than 0.4% MP against S. aureus, E. coli, and C. albicans growth as a good natural preservative system, which could be used in cos-
(Herman et al., 2013). However, when oil is applied alone, its antimi- metic formulations. However, the use of natural substances has cer-
crobial activity is usually specific and insufficient. To achieve better tain limitations such as a possible loss of activity after dilution,
efficacy it is necessary to use higher concentrations of the oil, which dependence on pH, volatility, and strong odor of essential oils or the
may cause allergenic reactions of the skin or other health problems. limited spectrum of activity depending on the target species and the
The synergistic action of oils with chemical preservatives character- form of microorganisms (Gram− bacteria, Gram+ bacteria,
ized by numerous beneficial properties such as: broad spectrum activ- mycobacteria, yeasts, molds) (Halla et al., 2018). The promoted natural
ity, physical and chemical stability, solubility in water/insolubility in preservative (grapefruit seed extract) was reported to interact with
oil, low production cost, and low frequency of sensitization or irrita- medicines mainly due to disturbing their metabolism (Brandin,
tion, makes it possible to minimize their concentration and at the Myrberg, Rundlöf, Arvidsson, & Brenning, 2007).
same time their undesirable effects on the skin. It was demonstrated Antimicrobial peptides are a rich and diverse group of natural
that MP used at 20- and 200-times lower concentrations than is usu- molecules that have been discovered in various plants and animals
ally used in cosmetic preparations, in combination with essential oils (Kim, Jeong, Cho, Lee, & Kim, 2018; Mahlapuu, Håkansson, Ringstad, &
exerted a preserving effect but not against all microorganisms Björn, 2016). Peptides, such as defensins, cathelicidin, dermcidin, and
(Maccioni et al., 2002). However, this effect can be increased by the lactoferrin naturally occurring in the human skin play an important
combination of two or more essential oils. The addition of lavender, role in the innate and/or adaptive immunity skin resistance and partic-
tea tree and lemon oil to body milk made it possible to decrease ipate in the repair of injured skin (Bardan, Nizet, & Gallo, 2004;
ska
8.5-fold the level of synthetic preservatives (Kunicka-Styczyn Yamasaki & Gallo, 2008). They possess antibacterial activity against a
et al., 2009). Natural products can be used as free, microencapsulated, wide range of microorganisms, including Gram−/Gram+ bacteria and
or transported by nanostructured carriers (Halla et al., 2018). The use fungi (Hancock & Sahl, 2006) and belong to the new generation of
of nanotechnology can provide promising solutions. Encapsulated thy- promising antimicrobials for use as food additives and in the pharma-
mol used at 12–25-times lower concentrations in cosmetic formula- ceutical and cosmetic industries. They can be used as natural preser-
tions (lotion, gel, and cream) was as effective a preservative as MP at vatives in personal care products, such as balms and creams
the concentration of 4 mg/mL (Wattanasatcha, Rengpipat, & Wan- (Rahnamaeian & Vilcinskas, 2015).
ichwecharungruang, 2012). In the light of the evidence presented in the present review,
Essential oils consist of terpenes with terpenoids, as well as aro- indicating the possibility of adverse health effects due to the use of
matic and aliphatic compounds with a low molecular weight. There cosmetics containing parabens, it seems very important to look for
are mostly two or three main compounds that determine the biologi- effective ways to reduce the use of parabens in cosmetology and
cal properties of essential oils (Dreger & Wielgus, 2013; Sarkic & their concentration in cosmetics. As preservatives cannot be
Stappen, 2018). Anethole, with well-documented antibacterial and completely eliminated from cosmetics and due to the concern of
antifungal properties, was reported as one of the major components consumers that alternative compounds may also have adverse
of anise and fennel fruit essential oils (De, De, Sen, & Banerjee, 2002), effects on their health, strategies aimed at decreasing the unfavor-
possessing a number of valuable properties useful in cosmetology. able outcomes of the widespread use of parabens not only in cos-
Anethole at low concentrations is able to induce collagen synthesis in metics, but also in food and medicine, is of great importance. It
human skin fibroblasts and to protect collagen and glycosaminogly- should be underlined that other synthetic preservatives or natural
cans against changes caused by hydrogen peroxide (Andrulewicz-Bot- alternatives to parabens are not completely safe or fully effective in
 ska, Kuźmicz, Nazaruk, Wosek, & Galicka, 2019; Galicka,
ulin protecting cosmetics against the development of microorganisms,
202 MATWIEJCZUK ET AL.

which guarantees its safety in this respect. The best solution seems from cosmetics applied to the skin and mucous membrane, as well as
to be searching for natural remedies that, when added in a small the research for alternative solutions to minimize the exposure of the
safe amount, would allow either lowering the concentration of par- organism to these preservatives should be continued.
abens used in cosmetics or lowering their unfavorable outcomes Summarizing the review of the available knowledge in the field of
noted at the concentration necessary to provide the microbiological safety of cosmetics containing parabens, it should be clearly empha-
purity for cosmetic products. sized that the use of single products of this kind should not pose a
hazard for human health. However, as the available data show, a sig-
nificant part of the general population use cosmetic products in exces-
10 | CO NC LUSIO NS sive quantities, which may cause exposure to parabens exceeding the
limit of safety and leading to the development of unfavorable health
Although cosmetics have become part of our daily routine and their outcomes. The assessment of the estrogenic potential of parabens
use has increased significantly in recent years, their continuous long- derived from cosmetics applied to the breasts and around them, per-
term use can cause various undesirable effects associated even with formed in the present review, confirms the possibility of an occur-
serious health risks. Many studies conducted on the absorption, bio- rence of such effects in humans. Particular attention should therefore
transformation, and accumulation of parabens with the use of animal be paid to the estrogenic potential of these compounds. Due to the
and human skin sections and with the participation of volunteers, real risk of estrogenic effects as a result of exposure to parabens from
prove their existence in the body in a non-metabolized form. Consid- cosmetics, consumers out of concern for their own health should
ering their wide and extensive use over a large part of the human avoid the simultaneous use of many products containing these
lifespan and the new cosmetic products continuously being intro- preservatives.
duced to the market, it is difficult to predict their possible negative
long-term outcomes. Apart from adults, this problem also concerns CONFLIC T OF INT ER E ST
children, adolescents, pregnant women and, above all, newborns Authors declare none of conflicts of interest.
whose skin may be more sensitive to the action of parabens. Despite
the safety of children's cosmetics provided by the manufacturers, the OR CID
dermal intake of parabens from children's cosmetics was estimated to Natalia Matwiejczuk https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2970-1508
be even higher than in adults. Most consumers do not know the com- Anna Galicka https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4027-989X
position of cosmetics and the action of their ingredients because they Małgorzata M. Brzóska https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3023-0056
pay more attention to the active ingredients that aim to improve the
appearance of the skin. Penetration enhancers added to increase the
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