Textile Internship Report 2022

Textile Internship Report
at
Premier Mills Spg & Wvg Private Ltd.
(Belathur- 635 124, Hosur TK
Krishnagiri District, Tamilnadu,India)

Submitted
By

Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/625)

Rohit Raj (BFT/20/90)
Shrashwat Shailesh (BFT/20/60)

Under the Guidance of

Ms. Nanika Kaushal
Dr. Renjini G
Ms. Sweta Jain

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology
Bengaluru
June, 2022
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We are overwhelmed in all humbleness and gratefulness to acknowledge our depth to all those
who have helped us to put these ideas, well above the level of simplicity and into something
concrete.
We would like to express our special thanks of gratitude to our college mentors Ms Nanika
Kaushal, Dr Renjini G, Ms Sweta Jain and our industry mentor Mr K Socrates who gave us the
golden opportunity to do this wonderful project on Textile Manufacturing Mill i.e. Premier Spg &
Wvg Mills Pvt Ltd. which also helped us in doing a lot of research and we came to know about so
many new things. we are thankful to them.
Any attempt at any level can't be satisfactorily completed without the support and guidance of our
parents and friends.
We would like to thank Mrs Saraswathi Kiran ma'am who helped us a lot in gathering different
information, getting an understanding of different processes, and guiding us from time to time in
making this project, despite her busy schedule, and gave us different ideas in making this project
unique.
DECLARATION
We hereby declare that this report is submitted to the National Institute of Fashion Technology,
Bengaluru thereof has not been submitted in any form for any other degree/diploma/company.
This internship project report, submitted towards the fulfillment of a two-week internship is our
original work and no part of the project has been copied from any other reports or any other work
carried by someone else which has been submitted for any other degree or award.
Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/625)

Rohit Raj (BFT/20/90)
Shrashwat Shailesh (BFT/20/60)

Date: 08-09-2022 Department of Fashion Technology

Place: Bengaluru National Institute of Fashion Technology
ABSTRACT
The textile internship of 13 days dated from 13th June 2022 to 27th June 2022 covered
different departments - Spinning (3 days), Weaving (3 days), Processing (4 days), and the
Utility Departments (3 days) that included ETRP, IT, Boiler, PDC, PPC, and the Excess
Bonded Office.
The different departments mentioned above focus on the processes starting from bale import in
cotton godown to spinning and making cones which are conditioned for either import or further
sending to the weaving department for fabric manufacturing and final processing adding
multiple varieties of finish depending on the requirement or demand.
The utility departments tendered with the processes involved in the treatment of waste or
production of steam and heat, the supply chain, and the development & planning processes as
well.
CONTENTS
1. Introduction & Objectives 25

2. Company Overview 27
3. Sourcing 31
3.1 Cotton and Polyester Bales
3.2 Chemicals for dyeing
3.3 Colors for dyeing
3.4 Chemicals for sizing
3.5 Shipping Terms
4. Storage 37
4.1 Cotton Godown 1
5. Inspection 39
5.1 Inspection Checkpoints
5.2 Poor Test Results
6. Spinning 43
6.1 Plant Layout - Blowroom to Simplex
6.2 Blowroom
6.3 Carding
6.4 Breaker Drawing
6.5 Lap Former
6.6 Combing
6.7 Finisher Drawing
6.8 Simplex
6.9 Plant Layout - Ring Frame & Autoconer
6.10 Ring Frame
6.11 Autoconer
6.12 Autoconer 6x
6.13 Electronic Yarn Clearer
6.14 Double Yarn Winding
6.15 Singeing
6.16 Conditioning
6.17 Pre-Humidification
6.18 Yarn Packaging
6.19 Lab Testing
7. Weaving 95
7.1 Plant Layout - Weaving

7.2 Preparatory Process (Warping)
7.3 Warping
7.4 Sizing
7.5 Looms
8. Processing 111
8.1 Plant Layout - Processing

8.2 Yarn Dyeing
8.3 Fabric Singeing & Desizing
8.4 Bleaching Process
8.5 Fabric Mercerization
8.6 Fabric Dyeing
8.7 Color Kitchen
8.8 Screen Printing
8.9 CAD Department
8.10 Digital Printing
8.11 Stentering
8.12 Sanforization
8.13 Calendering
8.14 Lab Testing
8.15 Fabric Inspection
9. Finished Warehouse 145
9.1 Finished Warehouse
10. Utility Departments 149
10.1 Excess Bonded Office
10.2 IT Department
10.3 PPC
10.4 Safety Department
10.5 PDC
10.6 Marketing Department
10.7 Boiler
10.8 ETRP
10.9 Filter Room - Blowroom
10.10 Cotton Godown 2
11. Cost Comparision 165

12. Machine Tables 167
13. Conclusion 171
LIST OF FIGURES
Chapter Page
Fig No. Description
No. No.
2 2.1 Premier Inauguaration Board 20
2 2.2 Premier Brand Vision 21
2 2.3 Premier Product Range 21
2 2.4 5-S followed by Premier Pvt. Ltd. 22
3 3.1 Cotton Feeding Inlet 30
4 4.1 Cotton Godown 34
5 5.1 Hand Mixing 38
5 5.2 SITRA 38
6 6.1 Plant Layout of Spinning Unit 44
6 6.2 Process Flow of Spinning 45
6 6.3 Blowroom 46
6 6.4 Blowroom Process Flow Chart 47
6 6.5 70s Dhotis fabric 48
6 6.6 70s Blouse Fabric 48

Chapter Page
Fig No. Description
No. No.
6 6.7 40s suiting fabric 48
6 6.8 60s Kurta Fabric 48
6 6.9 60s Shirt Fabric 48
6 6.10 Hand Plucking and Mixing 49
6 6.11 Blendomat Trutzschler 50
6 6..12 Laskshmi Vario Cleaner 52
6 6.13 Premier Xeni F 53
6 6.14 Trutzschler Condenser 54
6 6.15 Unimix 55
6 6.16 Premier I Qube 56
6 6.17 Premier Xeni 2 56
6 6.18 Step Cleaner 57
6 6.19 Premier UniQ 58
6 6.20 Dustex 59
Chapter Page
Fig No. Description
No. No.
6 6.21 Trutzschler TC 5 Carding Machine 60
6 6.22 Delivery and feeding Can 62
6 6.23 Rieter Sb S 20 63
6 6.24 Lakshmi LMW LH 15 65
6 6.25 Trutzschler TCO 12 66
6 6.26 Trutzschler TD 8 68
6 6.27 Lakshmi LFi 400A 69
6 6.28 Plant Layout Spinning Unit 2 70
6 6.29 Ring Frame 71
6 6.30 Working of Ring Frame 71
6 6.31 Cop Winding 72
6 6.32 Drafting Arrangement 73
6 6.33 Drafting Arrangement of Compact Yarns 74
6 6.34 Parts of Ring Frame 75
6 6.35 LED Indicator 76

Chapter Page
Fig No. Description
No. No.
6 6.36 Ring and C Traveller 76
6 6.37 Spindle 76
6 6.38 Apron 76
6 6.39 Roller 76
6 6.40 Rollers with Cot 76
6 6.41 Laper Hook 76
6 6.42 Ring Tubes 76
6 6.43 Belt 76
6 6.44 Autoconer Machine 78
6 6.45 Muratec Process Autoconer II 79
6 6.46 Manual Feeding 80
6 6.47 Rewinding Units 81
6 6.48 Doffer Head 82
6 6.49 Manual Repair 83
6 6.50 Capacitor Plate Effect 84

Chapter Page
Fig No. Description
No. No.
6 6.51 Doubling and Twisting 85
6 6.52 RITE Singeing Machine 86
6 6.53 Singed Cone 87
6 6.54 Yarn Knotting Equipment 87
6 6.55 Conditional Yarn 88
6 6.56 Sara ELGI Profix 89
6 6.57 Yarn Caddy 90
6 6.58 Premier IQ 3 91
6 6.59 Premier Tenso 91
6 6.60 Premier aQuara 2 91
6 6.61 Ele Twist 92
6 6.62 Ele Stretch XT 93
7 7.1 Plant Layout of Weaving Unit 96
7 7.2 Weaving Process Flow 97
7 7.3 SSM Auto Propeller 98

Chapter No. Fig No. Description Page No.
7 7.4 Pilot Motor Winder 99
7 7.5 Direct Warping 99
7 7.6 Sectional Warping 100
7 7.7 Benninger Zell Sizing Machine 101
7 7.8 Chemicals for sizing 102
7 7.11 Manual Drawing 104
7 7.12 Loading of Warp Beam 105
7 7.13 Staubli SawAFIR S60 Auto Drawing Machine 106
7 7.14 Shuttle Loom 107
7 7.15 Airjet Loom 108
7 7.16 Rapier LOOM 109
7 7.17 Projectile Loom 110

8 8.1 Plant Layout of Processing Unit 112
8 8.2 Tank for continous dyeing range 113
8 8.3 Dyeing Bath Preperation Tanks 114
8 8.4 Dyeing Bath Preperation Tanks 115
8 8.5 RFD 116
8 8.6 Dyeing Process Flow 116
8 8.7 Kusters Singeing & Desizing Machine 117
8 8.8 Kusters Singeing & Desizing Machine 118
8 8.11 Kusters Bleaching Machine 119
8 8.12 Chemical Process flow in bleaching machine 120
8 8.13 Manforts CDR 123
8 8.14 Color Swatch Book 126
8 8.15 Process Flow of Screen Printing 127
8 8.16 Process Flow of Screen Printing 127

8 8.17 Digital Printing 130
8 8.18 MS Orange 132
8 8.19 Efi Reggiani Vogue 132
8 8.20 Digital Printing 133
8 8.21 Stenteing Machine Parts 136
8 8.22 Calendering Machine 139
8 8.23 Stenter Testing Machine 142
8 8.24 Hot Plate 143
9 9.1 Fabric Inspection 147
9 9.2 Packaged Rolls 148
10 10.1 Excess Bonded Office 150
10 10.2 IT 151
10 10.3 Premier Ultimo 151
10 10.4 Classic Loom Data 152

8 10.5 Dustex 153
8 10.6 ETRP Flow Process 162
8 10.7 Filter Room 163
8 10.8 Cotton Godown 2 163

LIST OF TABLES
3 3.1 List of sourced chemicals for dyeing 27
3 3.2 List of Chemicals for dyeing 28
3 3.3 List of Sizing Chemicals 29
5 5.1 Sitra Testing 39
6 6.1 Mixing Ratio of diffferent types of bales 50
6 6.2 RITE Machine Details 86
6 6.3 PEASS Details 87
8 8.1 Recipe for pigment paste 124
8 8.2 Recipe for discharge paste 124
8 8.3 Recipe for reactive paste 124
11 11.1 Rate Card of Fibre Sourcing 166
12 12.1 Machine List of Spinning Units 168
12 12.2 Machine List of Looms 169
12 12.3 Machine List of Processing Unit 169

CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES
18
19
The main objective of the textile industry was to understand the structural and functional
constituents of the industry.
To get an in-depth understanding of various processes and operations being carried out in
the textile industry and to be able to connect with the practical aspects.
To study the machinery and the equipment used during the processes
To be able to learn to adapt to the working culture of the industry and gain experience that
would build in decision-making in the realistic environment
To study the safety equipment and the measures carried out in the industry
To provide possible solutions to the frequently occurring problems in the various processes.
20
21
CHAPTER 2
COMPANY OVERVIEW
22
22
Premier Spg & Wvg Mills Pvt Ltd (PSW) is an institution incorporated in 1945 and we
have been guided by the same ethos since its inception. It is part of the US$ 250 million
Premier Mills Group headquartered in Coimbatore.
Management has been disciplined, systematic, and continuously reinvested in the

business. PSW is a vertically integrated operation that manufactures apparel fabric and
cotton yarn.
Fig- 2.1 Premier Inauguration Board
Sri V N Ramachandran was the founder of Premier Mills. We have been a well-run
company since our inception and continue to have one of the best reputations in the
textile industry. We have enjoyed sustained success for six decades.
Premier is India's largest Fabric Manufacturer which produces Top Premium Dothis and
Blouse in the country. Operates on Yearly Turn over of INR 360+ Cores and there are 4
Factories with advanced machinery of capacities 240 lakhs meters of fabric per annum
operating in Yarn, Grey fabrics, Dyed Fabric, Printed Fabric etc. Employees 2500
Associates covering 67 villages
20
Fig- 2.2 Premier Brand Vision
In Spg. they have state of art machinery like - Truetzscheler, LMW, Rieter, Murata,
Savrer, Savio, etc., capable of producing year to meet the global standard.
In Wvg. they have all ranges of Auto looms - Rapier, Projectile, Airjet, Jacquard,
Dobby with name selvedge facility.
In Process house they have - Monfort Stenter, MonfogMercheiser, Digital printing,
Rotary printing, Continuous dyeing range, Yarn dyeing etc.
The mill is running with their own green energy derived from their wind Mills.
With world class latest technology in recycling, there is 0% discharge.
Staff colony with around 200 individual houses with park, recreation club,
playground, indoor play kits etc,
PRODUCTS MANUFACTURED
Cotton Yarn Grey Fabric Printed Fabric Yarn Dyed Fabric
Fig- 2.3 Premier Product Range
COMMITTEES
Canteen Committee Safety Committee

Works Committee Internal Complaint Committee
Grievance Committee
21
Fig- 2.4 5-S followed by Premier Pvt. Ltd.
The company follows 5S and gives proper training to all the workers. The audits are
done every month for 3 days which is done by QCFI. 5th of every month is Seiri Day
and cleaning is done for which 1 hr is given
Every Thursday of the week is self-audit day, when all workers audit themselves and
give marks
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)
Free education till PG courses for all women workers

Nursing, Beautician, Craft, Typewriting, Computer, and Tailoring Courses are free
for all women
Govt. exams are held and a certificate of completion is given.
Integration with Annamalai University for final degree exam.
Constructed police station's compound wall
Donation to Trivira Village festival
Plantation of 1100 saplings on environment day
Women wellness program
2 teachers' salaries are paid by the organization at govt school
Organized Uniforms
Spinning Department Staff

Women- Pink Kurta and Pants Women- White and Grey Stripped
Men- Pink Shirt Saree or Kurta and Pants
Weaving Department Men- White and Grey Stripped Shirt
Women- Green Kurta and Pants and Grey Pants
Men- Green Shirt Piece Rate Employees-
Processing Women- Pista Green Kurta and Pants
Women- Lavender Kurta and Pants Men- Pista Green Shirt
22
23
CHAPTER 3
SOURCING
24
25
3.1 COTTON & POLYESTER BALES
Premier Mills sources different types of cotton depending on the needs and consumption. There are three
types of cotton that the mill sources. They are as follows -
DCH Variety
MCU5 Variety
Australian Cotton
DCH Variety – DCH stands for Dharwad Cotton Hybrid. It is a hybrid seed that produces a high-
yielding, superior, long-staple variety of cotton. Further depending on where these cotton are cultivated,
they can be further classified as –
KDCH – Karnatka DCH

MP DCH – Madhya Pradesh DCH
MCU5 Variety - MCU5 cotton is used for spinning finer yarn counts and increasing the spinnability of
coarser yarn counts, which determines the yarn quality. Again depending on where the cotton is
cultivated, it can be further divided into various types –
TNMCU5 - Tamil Nadu MCU5

MH MCU5 - Maharashtra MCU5
Australian Cotton - They are very fine quality contamination-free cotton. Australian cotton leads the
world in contamination-free cotton due to a number of factors including the careful ways it's grown,
machine picked, ginned, and shipped.
Premier Mills sources low-contamination cotton in large cotton (for the fabrics that they export globally)
because it not only produces high quality, fault-free yarns but also reduces stoppages and breakages
during the spinning process.
Besides cotton, polyester is also sourced from Mumbai, Maharashtra
Minimum Order Quantity
A total of around 3000 bales of cotton and 50-60 bales of polyester are consumed in a month.
1 bale of polyester - 410 kg

1 bale of Australia cotton - 220 kg
1 bale of Indian cotton - 170 kg
26
3.2 CHEMICALS FOR DYEING
Table- 3.1 List of Sourced Chemicals
Gross
S No. Chemicals Vendor Wt./
Bag
Rucolase (KAT) - A peroxide Rudolf Atul Chemicals Ltd.,

1 60 kgs
killer Gujarat
Rudolf Atul Chemicals Ltd.,

2 Rucothickner FSTN-MDX 60 kgs
Gujarat
3 Sarasoft (Yarn Lubricant) - -
Leucophor BMB Lew liquid Archroma India, Pvt. ltd., Mumbai,

4 60 kgs
(Brightening Agent) Maharashtra
Rudolf Atul Chemicals Ltd.,

5 Rucoflow AIA 50 kgs
Gujarat
Dasaldhan Chemicals Pvt. ltd.,

6 Vreolan (NBO) -
Mumbai, Maharashtra
Mirachem Industries, Mumbai,

7 Emfix (NF) -
Maharashtra
Mirachem Industries, Mumbai,

8 Mirafinish (VP) 53 kgs
Maharashtra
Sodium Solvay Light - Solvay Chemicals International SA,

9 -
Sodium Carbonate Soda Ash Bulgaria, Belgium
10 Globber Salt Grasim (Aditya Birla) -
11 BevaSodt TSI Beva Silicon Pvt. Ltd, Tamil Nadu -
27
3.3 COLORS FOR DYEING
Table- 3.2 List of Colours for Dyeing
Gross
S No. Color Vendor
Wt./Bag
1 Novatic Yellow 3R MD Atul Limited 7.66 kgs
2 Novatic Blue RCL - -
3 Novacron Yellow S3R Pidilite Industries Limited -
Sarvana Chemical Deys, Tamil

4 Avitera Blue SE 30 kgs
Nadu
5 Novcron Black NN - -

6 Jackzot Black CECL 35 kgs
Nadu
7 Novacron Ruby S38 - 35 kgs

8 Avitera Brill Yellow 30 kgs
Nadu

9 Avitera Red SE 35 kgs
Nadu
10 Novacron Blue ECGC Pidilite Industries Limited 35 kgs

11 CBfix T. Blue BF2G 25 kgs
Nadu
28
3.4 CHEMICAS FOR SIZING
Table 3.3 List of Sizing Chemicals
Gross
S No. Color Vendor
Wt./Bag
Crosfield Textile Chemicals pvt.

1 Cel Size PVR 25 kgs
ltd., Mumbai, Maharashtra
2 Kirlon Jet - -
3 PVA 613 - 20 kgs
4 Sico 12 Indokem Limited, Tamil Nadu -
5 PR 30 - -
6 Textile Wax - 50 kgs
7 EUL- PC - -
8 Sizoloan 5 - -
Alpenol Sizing Materials Pvt.

9 Alpenol -
Ltd.
10 FIN A5 - -
29
3.5 SHIPPING TERMS
The shipping term of the Mill is EXW. When importing on Ex Works terms the buyer is responsible for
the whole shipment from door to door. All costs and liabilities are with the buyer.
The total leap time for international orders is 3 to 4 months at least whereas for Indian orders it is 15
days.
Fig- 3.1 Cotton Feeding Inlet
30
31
CHAPTER 4
STORAGE
32
33
4.1 COTTON GODOWN 1
Once the cotton and polyester bales are sourced, it is then stored and inspection is done.
The cotton godown 1 is used for storing cotton and polyester bales. The maximum
capacity of Cotton godown is that it is able to store the total stocks for 6 months. A
maximum of about 20,000 bales can be stored in the godown.
Area of the godown - 35 X 35 m
The three types of cotton and polyester were stored at different places in the godown with
cotton bales occupying the maximum amount of the area.
Every month, over 3000 bales are sourced and then stored in the godown.
Fig- 4.1 Cotton Godown
24
35
CHAPTER 5
INSPECTION
36
37
5.1 INSPECTION CHECKPOINTS
The bales after arriving go through different inspections. There are 4 inspection checkpoints.
They are as follows -
Hand Stapling
Lab Testing
Central Office Testing
SITRA
Fig- 5.1 Hand Mixing Fig- 5.2 SITRA
Hand Stapling - It is a process in which the fibers are plucked to check the strength, air
permeability, color, length etc. It is a manual inspection process, hence requires an
experienced operator for the work. One bale is selected for inspection out of all the bales in
the lot inspection. This gives a basic overview for the further testing checkpoints
Premier Mill Lab Testing - For checking the chemical properties of the fibers, samples for
each lot are sent to a lab for inspection. The chemical and physical tests for cotton include
the tests for neps, length, and strength.
Central Office - The samples are also sent to the Premier Mills Head Office, Coimbatore. 10
percent of the samples are sent to the Head Office.
For example, if a lot contains 150 bales, samples for 15 bales are sent.
Various physical and chemical tests such as tests for micronaire, length, strength, color, neps,
stickiness, and trash are conducted.
38
SITRA - In case of some doubts, samples are sent to SITRA. Sitra stands for 'South India
Textile Research Association. It was established in the year 1956. SITRA has testing,
electronics, and calibration laboratories, as well as libraries, among other things.
SITRA is one of the best-equipped textile research facilities, with a full range of sophisticated
textile testing instruments and modern machines.
Table- 5.1 Sitra Testing Results
INFLUENCE INFLUENCE
FIBRE INFLUENCE
IN YARN IN FUTHER TEXTILE
PROPERTIES IN SPINNING
QUALITY PROCESSING
Micronaire

Color

Length

Neps

Strength

Stickness

5.2 POOR TEST RESULTS
In case of poor tests, and results, there can be two possible situations -
First, if the defects are fewer, then still production can be continued but only if the
supplier is ready to pay more for the losses that the mill may suffer due to decreased
quality.
If the quality is very poor, then the whole lot is rejected irrespective of how much the
supplier is ready to pay. The rejected lots are then collected by the suppliers and are
replaced by whatever possible amount along with the compensation.
39
40
41
CHAPTER 6
SPINNING
42
43
6.1 PLANT LAYOUT - BLOWROOM TO SIMPLEX
Fig- 6.1 Plant Layout of Spinning Unit
Note - The plant layout is not up to the scale.
44
Process Flow Of Spinning
Cotton Bales (Cotton Godown)
Hand Plucking & Hand Mixing
Blowroom
Carding
Breaker Drawing
Lap Formation
Combing
Finisher Drawing
Simplex
Ring Frame
Autoconer
Yarn Singeing
Conditioning & Pre Humidification
Fig 6.2- Process Flow of Spinning
45
6.2 BLOWROOM
The blow room carries out different processes to open and clean cotton and other fibers. There can be a
sequence of machines
Objective
The various objectives of the blow room include -
Opening the bales of fibers and making cotton tufts as small as possible.
Cleaning the fiber, removing all dirt, dust, and waste materials from it.
Blending and mixing are essential to improve yarn quality and reduce production costs.
Removal of microdust particles
Feeding to the carding machine
The blow room had a different variety of machines with a variety of uses. They are as follows -
Blendomat
Material Fan
Metal Detector
Xeni - F
Condenser
Vario Cleaner
Step Cleaner
Unimix
Dustex
Xeni- A
I-Qube
Ventilation Fan
Fig 6.3- Blowroom
Now according to the count of cotton fibers, three lines were used. The 80s, 60s, and 50s were different
counts of cotton. lower the count, the thicker the outcome (i.e. fabric). Also, each of the cotton lines had
different machines.
BLOWROOM
INPUT Bales
OUTPUT Sliver
46
Hand Plucking and mixing
Blendomat Trutzschler
Trutzschler Material Fan
Vetal Metal Detector
Vario Cleaner
Premier Xeni-F
Condensor
80s 60s 50s
I Qube I Qube Xeni 2
Xeni 2 UNIQ LMW- LA 21
Step Cleaner Condenser
Dustex Dustex
Fig 6.4- Blowroom Process Flow Chart
47
Different Products from various sizes of cotton
80s - export
70s - blouse, dhotis
60s - shirt, kurtas
50s - trousers,
40s - suitings
Fig 6.5- 70s Dhotis fabric
Fig 6.6- 70s Blouse fabric
Fig 6.7- 40s Suiting fabric
Fig 6.8- 60s Kurta fabric Fig 6.9- 60s Shirt fabric
48
6.2.1 HAND PLUCKING
The process of spinning starts with the mixing and plucking of the cotton bales. The main reason behind
this is to increase the air permeability and reduce the compressibility of the bales so that they can go
through various machines in the blow room.
Process specification:
No of operators - 20 to 25
No. of tables required - 10 to 12
Time-taken - 8 hrs for 1 bale (1 shift)
PPE for hand plucking:
Hairnet
Body Apron
Boots
Masks
Fig 6.10- Hand Plucking and Mixing

Ergonomics and Working Condition-
Enough place for ventilation.

ACs were installed to keep the place cool.
Appropriate and suitable PPE kits were given to ensure their safety of the operators
Yellow lines were marked on the ground highlighting the area for hand plucking.
Above each table, there were two tube lights for the proper visibility
Lux - 356
6.2.2 Hand Mixing
After hand plucking, a mix of 20 bales is created from different lots of the bales depending on the
quality of each lot.
This is basically done to increase the homogeneity else the bad quality bales may get completely
rejected.
This process is predecided by the quality inspector who ensures the proper mixing of different bales in
different quantities.
49
Table 6.1- Mixing Ratio of different types of bales
6.2.3 Blendomat Trurzschler
Cotton bales have different fibre properties, and no two bales will have the same staple length,
micronaire, strength, and so on. As a result, we must blend various cotton bales to create homogeneous
blends with acceptable average fibre properties.
Cotton bales are not processed at one time, but rather in batches. This is known as a "Bale Laydown."
A bale laydown may consist of 20 different bale mixes that are processed sequentially and blended at the
same time. The fibre properties of the bale laydown are provided by blending.
The following machine is used for blending purposes: Trutzschler BO-A Blendomat
Machine - Blendomat Trutzschler

Model - BO -A
Fig 6.11- Blendomat Trutzschler
50
Machine Features
Power consumption: 12.6 kW

Raw material: cotton, polyester, viscose, blends
Production speed: 1600 kg/hr
Working width - 2300 mm,
Machine length - 50 m
Max Production capacity - 2,000 kg/hr
No. of Bales - 150
Max number of bales - 180
Working Principle
Blendomat works on the principle of a Unique Inversion Mechanism. The blendomat is

equipped with rotating blades rotating in the opposite direction. Depending on the direction of
the travel, one roll is always working against the direction and one always with the direction.
Small tufts are picked from the blades of the rolls and are sucked into the suction zone. The
basic function is to open the fiber from the bale where fibers are in a very compressed and
disoriented state. The opening device must penetrate the bale and pick up the tuft of fibre
while simultaneously releasing it from multiple bales. Thus blending the cotton bales for
further processes of the blowroom and for homogeneity. Further, the tufts are cleaned are
moved further to other machines in blowroom
6.2.4 Material Fan & Metal Detector
The cotton fibers then pass through a tunnel with a material fan and a metal detector inbuilt
into it. The metal detector then detects any kind of metal and removes it before the fiber passes
through the vario cleaner.
6.2.5 Vario Cleaner
After the Blendomat, the cotton tufts move to the Vario Cleaner. The main objective of Vario
Cleaner is gentle cleaning and effective opening. Also, it removes microdust and the seeds. 30 to 40
% of the cotton bale waste is removed by the Vario Cleaner.
51
Machine - Lakshmi Vario Cleaner
Model - LMW LB 9/2
Features :
Higher Production up to 1600 kg /hr

Twin Element beater for gentle cleaning and
effective opening
Opening, cleaning, and de-dusting combined
Effective micro-dust and seeds removal
A roller-type waste collection system
Cleaning efficiency up to 40%
Programmable grid adjustment and Beater Speed
Individually adjustable traversing grid
Dynamic setting changes for different assortments
In-built intelligent display system with fault
annunciation and mimic display
Fig 6.12- Lakshmi Vario Cleaner

Working Principle
Vario cleaner works on friction cleaning mechanism. The cotton bales pass through the grid
bars and the seeds are hence removed by the striking off by the bars and the friction. The seeds
are then passed through a tube and collected.
6.2.6 Premier Xeni F
After the cotton bales are passed through the Vario Cleaner, it is passed through Xeni F. Xeni F
contamination sorters are specifically designed for the beginning of the Blow Room line. It
demonstrates the power of intelligent technology in providing high operating performance and
superior reliability.
Its main objective is to detect larger particles at the beginning of the Blow Room line.
Working Principle
Premier Xeni F works on the CCD array principle, i.e. it uses CCD to detect contamination. A
charge-coupled device (CCD) is an integrated circuit containing an array of linked or coupled,
capacitors. Under the control of an external circuit, each capacitor can transfer its
52
electric charge to a neighboring capacitor. CCD sensors are a major technology used in
contamination. The detected contamination is then transferred through Transferred Zone and
ejected.
Machine - Premier Xeni F

Model - Xeni F
Features :
Xeni F contamination sorters are now specifically designed for the beginning of the Blow
Room line.
It demonstrates the power of intelligent technology in providing high operating
performance and superior reliability
Xeni F is designed to detect larger particles at the beginning of the Blow Room line. This
versatile contamination sorter employs the “CCD” arrays and a patented “Transfer zone”
ejection system.
Fig 6.13- Premier Xeni F
53
6.2.7 Condenser
The fibers are taken through the condenser, which creates the suction and then feeds them to the
unmix for homogenous mixing.
The condenser is a very important part of the blow room. Its main function is to take the fibers
from the back part and supply them to the next part. All this operation is done on the bases of
the sucking function of the condenser. The condenser also divides the blowroom into three lines
depending on the count of cotton - 50s Aus, 60s, and 80s cotton. Each line has different sets of
machines because o different contamination percentages and the size of the cotton.
Machine - Condenser
Model - Trutzschler Condenser
Features :
It moves the cotton bales forward with great

speed.
It divides the line of the cotton depending on
the different count of the cotton.
Working Principle Fig 6.14- Trutzschler Condenser
Basically, the condenser consists of a fan, stripping roller, and perforated roller. The fan is
connected to a high-speed motor, which rotates it at a high speed. The grid roller has holes on its
surface, which helps it to suck the fibers from the back machine. When the fan and the grid roller
rotate with the help of the motor, an air vacuum is generated which sucks the fibers from the
back rollers through the holes of the grid roller.
Now the cotton line gets divided into three different lines -
80s 60s 50s
54
6.2.8 Unimix
It is a mixing machine with approximately 7-8 chambers. This mixing machine's regulation aids in
the homogeneous, intimate mixing of the opened cotton fibre. This results in long-term fibre mixing
or blending that is uniform. Unimix, in turn, contributes to the production of yarns of comparable
quality.
Machine - Unimix
Model - LB 7/4 R for 60s line
B 7/3 for 80s line
Unimix 3 for 50s Australian Line
Features:
Production on up to 800 Kg/hr with opening and cleaning

Larger buffer volume
High throughput coupled with a minimum space requirement
Combined Blending and Cleaning
An extremely good, homogenous, and consistent blend of material
Saving power by the combined blending and cleaning
All types of cotton, man-made fibers and their blends can be processed with or without cleaning
point.
Fig 6.15- Unimix
55
Working Principle
The unimix picks up the cotton stocks and transports them via conveyor belts through various
chambers. Cotton bales are passed through various spiked rollers to aid in long-term blending.
6.2.9 80s COUNT COTTON LINE
Premier i Qube
After unimix, the 80s count cotton passes through Premier I Qube which sorts the contamination
and hence it is also known as the contamination detector of the blowroom.
Fig 6.16- Premier I Qube Fig 6.17- Xeni 2
Xeni 2
Xeni 2 contamination sorters are specifically designed for the end of the Blow Rom line. Xeni 2 is
optimized for smaller tufts and higher speeds at the end of the Blow Room line.
56
Step Cleaner
After the Xeni 2, the cotton bales moves to step cleaner. Step Cleaner is designed to remove dust
and vegetable impurities from the fibres.
Machine - Step Cleaner Trutzschler

Model - CL - SC Trutzschler
Features:
Self-optimisation of the cleaning quality

Effective fine dust removal
4 roll feed for high productivity
Standard waste control
Available in stainless steel - for flexible
raw material use or recycling
applications
Continuous card feeding without stop
and go
Fig 6.18- Step Cleaner Tutzschler
Working Principle
The working principle is based on the opening of the fibre and its beating against special
contrast grids via 6 round-pinned rollers assembled in an inclined position (step). Dust collecting
conveyor connected to a suction system collects vegetable impurities and rejects dust and
transports it to a filtering and collecting system. A feed condenser usually feeds the fibres to the
machine.
Dustex
The Truetzschler Dustex DX is a high-efficiency dust separator that effectively removes

micro-dust particles at the end of the cleaning line installation.
The Dustex improves the efficiency of downstream processes and ensures longer lives of
clothing and spinning components, thus increasing the economic efficiency of the overall
installation.
57
6.2.10 50s AUSTRALIAN COTTON
Since Australian cotton is contamination-free, so it does not have to go through a lot of machines.
Xeni 2
Xeni contamination sorters are specifically designed for the end of the Blow Rom line. Xeni 2 is
optimized for smaller tufts and higher speeds at the end of the Blow Room line.
LMW LA 2/1
It is used for Final opening and the cleaning of the of the cotton line
6.2.11 60s AUSTRALIAN COTTON
Premier I Qube
After unimix, the 60s count cotton passes through Premier I Qube which sorts the contamination
and hence it is also known as the contamination detector of the blowroom.
Premier UniQ
Premier Uniq is a contamination sorter for efficient elimination of foreign matter inBlowroom
line.
Machine - Premier Uniq

Model - UniQ
Features:
Self-optimisation of the cleaning quality

Effective fine dust removal
4 roll feed for high productivity
Standard waste control
Available in stainless steel - for flexible
raw material use or recycling applications
Continuous card feeding without stop and
go
Fig 6.19- Premier UniQ
58
Condenser
The fibers are taken through the condenser, which creates the suction and then feeds them to the Dustex
machine. The condenser is a very important part of the blow room. Its main function is to take the fibers
from the back part and supply them to the next part. All this operation is done on the bases of the sucking
function of the condenser.
Dustex
At the end of the cleaning line installation, the Truetzschler Dustex DX is a high-efficiency dust
separator that effectively removes micro-dust particles.
The Dustex improves the efficiency of downstream processes and ensures that clothing and
spinning components last longer, increasing the overall economic efficiency of the installation.
Fig 6.20- Dustex
59
6.3 Carding
One of the most important processes in the spinning department is carding. It is also known as the
Spinning Heart. The carding machine is known as the mother or heart of spinning because it prepares the
fibre to be ready for yarn production by disentangling, cleaning, and intermixing fibre. This is the process
of preparing fibres for yarn production. Fibers are opened in this process, and dust, trash, neps, and short
fibre are removed to produce a continuous strand of fibre known as a sliver.
Objectives of carding:
Carding
separating tufts into individual fibres
Getting rid of all the impurities in the fibres
Neps extraction
Blending and orientation of fibres
INPUT Sliver
Short fibre removal
Fiber parallelization and stretching
OUTPUT Carded Sliver
Fig 6.21- Trutzschler TC 5 Carding Machine
60
Working Principle
After blow room chute is fed into carding machine through pipe. Tufts fiber transfer by transfer roller to
feed arrangement Tuft fiber open in licker-in. These tuft fibers are passed over grid equipment to the main
cylinder. While fiber pass through the grid removes impurities that wastage carries through suction ducts.
In the main cylinder tufts, fibers open individually when fiber passes through between flats and cylinder.
The flats contain 80-116 individual carding bars combined into a belt moving on an endless path. 30-46
carding bars are located in the carding position relative to the main cylinder rest are on the return run.
When flats return, the cleaning unit cleans the flats. After carding fibers carry along. Fiber becomes loose
and lies parallel without hooks. Then the fiber goes to offer. Doffer converts fiber into the web form. The
stripping device draws the web from the doffer. And then the sliver comes out
Carding Machines
There are different machines that are used in carding. A total of 34 machines have been used for carding.
A list of different types of machines along with their models are mentioned below
Trutzschler TC 5 Carding Machine

Trutzschler TC 10 Carding Machine
Trutzschler DK800 Carding Machine
Lakshmi LC 30 A Carding Machine
Lakshmi LC 300 A-V3 Carding Machine
Machine Specification
Feed Speed - 27.4 kg/hr

Pressure - 100 to 180 Pa
Deliivery Speed - 100 to 120 m/min
Draft Deviation - It should be less than 30 %
Machine Breakdowns and Stoppage
Sliver Breakage
Detection of Metal particles
Draft Deviationmore than 30 %
The cylinder did not start
Faulty Feed In
Bulky Sliver
61
Quality Control
All the carding machines follow Green- Red light system. In case of any breakage, the carding
machine stops on its own and starts indicating the red light highlighting that the machine is stopped
due to some defect. Orange light shows that the process is about to complete. The green light
indicates that everything is fine and the machine is working properly.
The cleaning of the machine is done with help of the air pump and manual cleaning is also done.
Output Storage
The output of the carding machine is sliver. Generally, the set length is 6000m which takes around
10-15 mins to be completed.
The 6000m sliver is stored in a can with a diameter of 40 inches and a height of 48 inches.
Fig 6.22- Delivery and Feeding Can
62
6.4 Breaker Drawing
Breaker Drawing is a process of blending, leveling, and increasing the length of the slivers. Different
slivers of carding are mixed together for homogenous production. It is an additional preparation process.
Here are slivers of 6 carding cans mixed together and the output is breaker drawing slivers.
BREAKER DWG.
Objectives
Fibre Parallelisation
Increasing Homogeneity INPUT Carded Slivers
Blending of slivers
Equalizing the slivers
Dust Removals
OUTPUT Slivers
(Braker Drawing)
Breaker Drawing Machines
Rieter SB 20
Fig 6.23- Rieter SB 20
63
Working Principle
6 carded slivers are fed into the Dawing Frame. These slivers go through various processes inside
the machine which include parallelization and blending. After the process, the slivers are collected
into the drawing cans,
Efficiency- 80 to 85 %
Set Length - 6000m
Delivery Speed - 420 m/min
Double System
Delivery Time - 10 to 12 mins
Quality and Inspection
All the Drawing Machines follow the Green- Red light system. In case of any breakage, the
machine stops on its own and starts indicating the red light highlighting that the machine is
stopped due to some defect.
When the machines run smoothly, it shows the green light which means there is no issue in the
machine as of now.
The cleaning of the machine is done with help of the air pump and manual cleaning is also done.
Output Storage
The output of the Breaker Drawing machine is sliver. Generally, the set length is 6000m
which takes around 10-12 mins to be completed.
The 6000m sliver is stored in a can with a diameter of 40 inches and a height of 48 inches.
From each carded sliver cans, 1000m of slivers goes for drawing
64
6.5 Lap Former
In the Lapformer machine, slivers are fed to form a lap of 20 inches wide condensed with a slight draft
and weighing as per set length. Here 20 breaker drawn slivers and fed together into the machine to
form a lap.
Objective and Characteristics
Reduce fibre Damage

Reduce short fiber from going into waste
Preparation for combing
Level the slivers
LAP
FORMATION
INPUT Slivers
OUTPUT Lap
Lap Former Machines
Lakshmi LMW LH 15 - total 4 machines
Machine and Process Specification
Feed Speed - 110 m/min

Delivery Speed - 120 m/min
1m of lap weighs 68 grams
1 lap weighs - 250 grams
In 6000m - 24 laps can be formed
Delivery Time - Below 5 mins
Fig 6.24- Lakshmi LMW LH 15
65
Woring Principle
Generally, twenty cans of drawn sliver from the first draw frame are placed under the two creel rails of the
lap former. Creel rollers withdraw the slivers from the cans and feed them to the drafting system. The two
webs created by the drafting system pass over two deflecting plates onto the web table. These webs are
superimposed or placed one above the other. The calender rollers draw these superimposed webs from the
table and compact them to make a lap and deliver it to the lap winding assembly.
6.6 Combing
The combing is a process that eliminates the short fibres, impurities, naps, and immature fibres from the
sliver, straightens the fibres, and make them parallel along the sliver length. 8 laps are formed into one
sliver again
COMBING
Objectives of Combing
Remove short fibers INPUT Lap

Remove impurities with a comb
Remove neps
Fiber parallelization Combed

OUTPUT Sliver
Produce uniform sliver per unit length
Fig 6.25- Trutzschler TCO 12
66
Woring Principle
The lap prepared for combing is fed into the machine between the feed roller and the bottom nipper. The
protruding fibres beyond the nipping point are combed. The comb further combs the lap and the output is
the combed sliver
Combing Machines
A total of 8 combing machines were with the company
Trutzschler TCO 12 - 1 machine

Rieter E-80 - 7 machine
Machine and Process Specification:
Deliver speed - 140 m/min

Feed speed - 72m/min
Delivery Time - 40 to 50 mins
The bulb is used over the lap in case of cold weather because heat prevents entanglement.
Machine Breakdowns
Sliver Jam at delivery

Inserting empty cans
machine stop (cleaning required)
Table funnel choked
Detaching rollers lapped
Coiler chocked
Quality and Inspection
All the machines follow Green- Red light system. In case of any breakage, the machine stops on its
own and starts indicating the red light highlighting that the machine is stopped due to some defect.
When the machines run smoothly, it shows the green light which means there is no issue in the
machine as of now
67
6.7 Finisher Drawing
The main objective of finisher drawing is to level the combed fibers and prepare it for roving. Here 8
sliver cans are fed and the output is the finished sliver ready for roving.
Objectives of Finisher Drawing
Auto leveling
Preparing the sliver for roving
Finish Drawing Machine
Trutzschler TD-8
Rieter RSB-D 40C
Machine Speed - 350 m/min

Machine set at 6000m
Delivery Time - 15-20 mins
Fig 6.26- Trutzschler TD-8
Machine Breakdowns
Sliver breakage
Needs new can
Maximum draft exceed
FINISH DWG.
Combed
INPUT
Sliver
Sliver
OUTPUT
(ready for roving)
68
6.8 Simplex
Simplex machines help in the roving process. Here the prepared slivers are fed which are then roved. A
roving is a long and narrow bundle of fibre. Rovings are produced during the process of making spun
yarn from, raw cotton, or other fibres.
Machines
Lakshmi LF1400-A
SIMPLEX
Temp - 33 to 34 degrees Celsius Sliver

INPUT
Speed - 950 rpm
Delivery Time - 2 hrs
One machine has 120 spindles
OUTPUT Roving
Machine Stoppage
Sliver breakage
Needs new can
Roving breakage
Fig 6.27- Lakshmi LF1400-A
69
6.9 Ring frame & Autoconer Department Layout
Fig 6.28- Plant Layout of Spinning Unit-2
NOTE - The plant layout is not to the scale
70
6.10 RING FRAME
The most important process in the yarn manufacturing process is the ring frame process. "The ring
frame is the machine that converts the roving into the desired yarn count." It is the most widely
used method in the yarn production process. On the ring frame machine, the final yarn of the required
count is spun. The simplex machine roving is used as input material in the ring frame process. In the
ring frame process, three actions (drafting, twisting, and package formation) are carried out
simultaneously and continuously. The material is drafted so many times along its length that the yarn
count can be spun. Following drafting, the required amount of twist is inserted into the fibres strand
to strongly hold the fibres together. This yarn is now wound onto the ring bobbin. Because these ring
bobbins have very little yarn on them, the yarn from these bobbins is transferred onto the large
package known as the cone, cheese, or spool. This machine can efficiently spin cotton, synthetic, and
a variety of other fibres. On the ring frame, the widest range of yarn counts can be spun. The yarn
produced on the ring frame machine has extremely high tensile strength, elongation percentage, yarn
evenness, and hairiness. The cost of ring-spun yarn is higher than that of open-end yarn.
Source:https://textilelearner.net
Fig 6.29- Ring Frame Fig 6.30- Working of Ring-Frame
The following are the objectives of the ring frame process:
1. Drafting the roving to the required level based on the yarn count to be spun
2. Adding the required amount of twist to the fibre strand to keep the fibres together in the
yarn while also preventing slippage.
3. While spinning, wind the yarn onto the ring bobbin at the same time.
4. Finally, spin the desired yarn count.
71
The roving bobbins produced by the simplex technique are used as the input material for the ring
frame. These roving bobbins are attached to the bobbin holders on the creel. The creel is mounted on
the top of the ring frame machine. After passing through the guide bar, the roving will move in the
direction of the drafting system. The creel is equipped with an autonomous wandering break stop
motion feature.
When a roving break occurs in a process spindle, the stop motion is immediately activated,
effectively stopping the spindle's operation. The roving from the guide bar is guided by drafting
rollers. These rollers are rotated at various speeds. The speed of the rollers increases from back to
front. In this zone, the material is drafted. Using drafting rollers, the weight per unit length of
material is reduced to the desired limit.
Loading arrangements are installed on the drafting rollers. There are three kinds of loading systems
used: spring loading, pneumatic pressure loading, and magnetic pressure loading.
When the material exits the drafting zone, it is negatively rotated at the ring around the revolving
spindle at high speed. Traveller aids in the twisting of the yarn.
The spun yarn is wound onto the ring bobbin at the same time. The ring bobbin is attached to the
spindle. A traverse guide is attached to the ring, which aids in moving the yarn up and down the
length of the bobbin. This yarn traverse motion makes the bobbin uniform and prevents yarn
entanglement during unwinding. A cam controls the traverse guide's up and down movement. The
spindle is rotated by a belt connected to the main power shaft. The spindles are attached to the fixed
rail, while the rings containing the yarn traverse guide are attached to the movable rail.
A cam is used to operate this rail. In a traditional ring frame, the machine is powered by a single
motor. The main shaft is connected to this motor.
Fig 6.31- Cop Winding
72
Working Procedures
1. Roving bobbins are grouped in suitable holders. This process is also known as creeling.
2. Guide rod leaves roving with draft system
3. The draft arrangement keeps the roving moist until the final count.
4. The drafting system is tilted at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees.
5. The fiber strands are twisted to impart strength upon exiting the front roller.
6. Each rotation of the spindle adds a twist to the strand.
7. Torsion occurs when the spindle rotates at high speed.
8. "S" or "Z" rotation direction(S-Twist in case of doubling and Z-twist in single ply twisting).
9. Yarn spinning is now complete.
10. Thread winding is done at the same time as twisting.
11. The yarn is wound onto the bobbin due to the speed difference between the rotor and the
spindle.
12. The ring diameter limits bobbin size. Increasing the spindle speed at the same runner speed
requires a smaller ring diameter.
13. After winding is finished, these cops are placed on a continuously moving winding cop. This is
done manually by the operator.
14. The wound yarn cops are automatically collected in a container at the end of the ring frame
spinning machine.
Fig. 4.1
Fig 6.32- Drafting Arrangement
73
TYPES OF RING FRAME MACHINE
1. Compact
2. Non-compact
Compact Ring Frame Machine
Compact spinning is a process where a fiber strand drawn by the drafting system is condensed before twisting
it. A compact spinning system reduces the size of the spinning triangle to a minimum. This is achieved
through a condensing of the fibers after the main draft by using a perforated roller in combination with a
suction unit. The hairiness of the yarn is thus reduced, and the tenacity is higher when compared to ring-spun
yarns. The yarn evenness is also improved.
LMW-proven spinning geometry enhances quality and productivity. LMW Ringframes with robust design
help in less maintenance cost, machines with inbuilt Energy saving solution to ensure less Spinning cost and
boosts Profitability to Spinners.
No. of cots: 3 No. of Apron: 2
Features:
LR9A up to 1824 spindles helps in less space requirement, less humidification comparatively
Hook Lock Low Decibel (HLLD) spindles with less Vibration & Noise
In-built Energy saver with IE4 main motor, Inverter Controlled IE3 suction motor, Inclined
suction tube to improve effective suction
4Q-2M drive for drafting
T-Flex drive system for quality consistency.
Fig 6.33- Drafting Arrangement of Compact Yarn
74
Non-Compact Ring Frame Machine
Brand: Laxshmi
Model: LR6/S
No. of cots: 2 No. of Aprons: 1

Doffing: Manual
No of Spindle: 1008
Spindle Gauge mm: 70
Bobbin Length mm: 200
Speed: 17731 m/min
Traveller: 19/0 EL, UDR
Cradle Size in mm Medium - 43
The machine has a bottom clearer roller on the other hand it doesn't have a top clearer roller. The dia of ring
is 38mm and it has a 4-spindle drive. The doffer is not available in this machine.
Parts Of Ring Frame Machine
The main parts of ring frame spinning machine are:
1. Creel
2. Roving Bobbin
3. Drafting Unit
4. Aprons
5. Ring Rail
6. Traveler
7. Ring
8. Spindle
9. Ring Flange
10. Pigtail Guide
Doubling Ring Frame Machine
Brand: Laxshmi LMW

Model: Elite compact set LR 6/S
RPM: 16926 - 17074

No of Spindle: 1344
Spindle Gauge mm: 70
Bobbin Length mm: 200 Source:https://textilelearner.net
Traveller: 10/o EL- UDR
Fig 6.34- Parts of Ring Frame
SPL Tape : 2557x 11mm HS -5
75
This machine works the same as other ring frame machines the difference is that the yarn produced by this
machine is through two roving bobbins. The S- type twist is happening here in this case.
The machine has an LED light system for each winding head. if yarn breaks then the red light will
automatically light up. There is an inbuilt sensor for that.
Fig. 6.35 LED indicator (Yarn breakage indicator)

Time is taken to produce one cop(bobbin):
1. Count - 43s - 50s : 3 hrs
2. Count - 60s : 4 hrs
3. Count - 80s : 6-7 hrs
4. Count - 100s : 8 hrs
Parts of Ring frame machine
Fig. 6.36- Ring and C Traveller Fig. 6.37- Spindle Fig. 6.38- Apron
Fig. 6.39- Roller Fig. 6.40- Rollers with cot Fig. 6.41- Lappet hook
Source: google images
Fig. 6.42- Ring tubes Fig. 6.43- Belt
76
Idle Spindles
Idle Types:
1. Mechanical (Tape Break)
2. Electronic (Sensors Problem, Power Consume Board)
3. Production (Yarn Break)
Attending the roving break at the creel
The following steps can be followed:

1. Check the creels to determine which roving is broken;
2. Determine whether the roving is broken at the creel or has exhausted itself in the roving bobbin.
3. Take the least amount of time possible when piecing the roving and ensure proper passage of the
material from the creel to the drafting zone.
4. Place the roving waste in the waste collection box after keeping it in the hip bag or apron pocket.
Attending yarn breakage
1. To ensure that Ring spun yarn is produced properly, patrol the machine.
2. Apply the knee break to stop the spindle if any yarn breaks.
3. Take the cop's yarn and feed it through the ring traveller and lappet hook.
4. Cut the yarn (10mm) and begin piecing, being careful not to stain it.
5. To ensure that the thickness of the pieced portion is neither thick nor thin, piecing should be quick
and high-quality.
6. Spend the least amount of time piecing the yarn.
7. After piecing the yarn, make sure the cops are properly seated in the spindle and release the knee
break.
8. Verify the correct traveller running.
9. Make sure that ring cops are handled properly.
10. Make sure the pieced yarn is properly tensioned.
11. Check that the material is moving properly from the drafting zone to the yarn wound in the cop.
12. Take out the yarn and pneumafil waste and place it in the corresponding waste collection bags.
13. While performing piecing activities, ensure safety.
14. Attend to the end breaks as they happen.
Sound/vibration and Lux at ring frame department
Sound/Noise: 80.2 db
Minimum: 72.9 db
Maximum: 82.9 db
Average: 78.4 db
LUX: 310
Minimum: 21
Maximum: 369
Average: 195
77
6.11 AUTOCONER
The primary goal of spinning is to create yarn from fiber for the textile industry; at the very end, a winding
machine forms a larger package of yarn. If the speed or efficiency of the cheese and cone-forming process
(i.e., winding) is slower, it will eventually result in a loss in production. In order to meet all the requirements,
autoconer must operate effectively. If we remove the factors that are to blame for the autoconer machine's
decreased efficiency, the issue won't arise. Technical or non-technical fixes cannot solve the problems. It was
discovered during my internship that employing a straightforward device with the lowest feasible cost and an
excellent working mechanism is an efficient way to increase productivity.
Objectives of Autoconer:
Increasing the autoconer m/c's efficiency will enhance production.
In order to maintain efficiency, the red light percentage is at its lowest in m/c.
The employee should pay attention to the equipment and go toward the red light as soon as possible.
Functions of Autoconer:
Cone package from cops.
Eliminate the yarn error (Thick & thin place, naps, foreign materials, etc)
By using auto splicing, untangle a yarn knot.
Waxing the components
Minimize any yarn flaws
Waxing yarn
Better yarn quality
Give the cone package the proper shape.
Creating uniform yarn
Increase production while reducing power consumption
Fig 6.44- Autoconer Machine
78
List of Autoconer available in Premier Spinning and Weaving Pvt Ltd.
1. Autoconer Schlafhorst Aerlikon x5 - 3 units (50 winding units and 10 rewinding units)
2. Muratec Process Coner II QPRO EX - 3 units
3. Savio Polar Evolution E - 4 units
4. Gainners Autoconer Solution - 1 unit
5. Saurer Schalfhorst x6 - 1 unit
6. Savio Orion L Autoconer - 4 units
7. Schlafhorst 338 Rm Autoconer - 2 units
The autoconer is highly automated. It winds spun cotton yarn from cops to cones, analysing it as it
winds. Any faults are detected by the machine and cut before the yarn is spliced back together.
There are 18 autoconer in the mill out of which 5 are controlled by automatic doffer while the rest 13
were manually loaded and replaced.
The weight of each cop is 40 gms
Out of 18, only one was loaded with polyester yarn rest were cotton varieties
One of 18 had a row of 10 re-winding units in which the faulty cones are first manually corrected and
then loaded for rewinding.
Fig 6.45- Muratec Process Coner II QPRO EX
79
Manual Feeding and Doffing (13 units)
Each winding unit has 9 ports for cops in a circular magazine

Each cop takes 6 minutes to unwind
Speed of the blower- 0.27 m/sec
No. of splicing in one minute
New fine cop- 1-2
New not fine cop- More than 5
Speed of Overhead Travelling Cleaner- 0.27 m/sec
Fig 6.46- Manual Feeding
Automatic Feeding and Doffing (4 units)
Cone Winding (AUTOCONER Automatic)

Starts at 8:42:08 and ends at 11:37:43 ~ 3 hrs per cone
New Cop Started at 9:10:13 and ends at 9:15:22 ~ 5 mins per cop
Joins the thread and if it breaks due to faults in the cop yarn then again joins it. If there are 5 such
repetitions happens then it discards that cop and starts winding a new one
Speed of the doffer head- 0.4 m/sec
The width of one winding unit- 30 cm
Time taken by the suction arm to go to the cone- 0.9 sec
Take taken to find the thread- 3.1 sec, 4.9 sec, 17.3 sec (the end was stuck to the winded cone so wasn't
able to find the open end easily), 10.01 sec (the thread got cut near the cone so the roller unwinds a certain
length ~1m and then takes it to the splicer), 3.12 sec.
80
Therefore, takes
3-5 seconds for usual finding when the thread is cut near the splicer or the cop
10-12 seconds for finding the open end and unwinding when gets cut near the cone
16-20 seconds for finding the open end and unwinding when threads get stuck to the cone and are
not easy to find by the suction arm
Time taken by the bottom end to be brought to the splicer- 0.64 sec (The suction tube takes the open
end of the cop thread and holds it till the time top cone thread is found and taken back to the splicer.
Once the suction arm passes across the splicer the bottom arm picks the cop thread and takes it to the
other side of the splicer)
Time taken to twist both ends- 1.46 sec
No. of times threads were joined per minute
1 when everything is fine
1-2 when a new cone is introduced
1-2 when a new cop is introduced
>5 when a cop is not fine (which gets rejected)
No. of thread joining in 1 cop- 4-5
Takes 3 hrs for one cone to win
Speed of SARA ELGI NUGEN'S Automatic Overhead Travelling Cleaner- 0.18 m/sec
No. of operators required-
2 for filling cops
1 for cleaning winding head
Fig 6.47- Rewinding Units
AUTOCONER 6X
New cop introduced- 9:46:22 and ends at 9:49:13 ~ 3 minutes

No. of threads joined in 1 min
0-1 when everything is fine
Up to 5 when a new cop is not fine
81
If not able to find an open end in 10 seconds doffer head comes to track it with laser light and thus
takes it out for the suction arm
Overhead Travelling Cleaner- 0.17 m/sec
No. of thread joining in 1 cop- 2-3
New cone replacement time (doffing time)- 15 sec
Takes 2.5 hrs for one cone to wind
Speed of doffer head- 0.4 m/sec
No. of operators required- 1 for feeding the cops
Note- More the count more time it will take complete one cone. Here the considerations are related to the
60s
Fig 6.48- Doffer Head
Machine Breakdown
Broken yarns get stuck in the passage of the rollers and the suction arm thus leading to jamming of the arm
and the rollers leading to rolling of yarns directly onto the roller and not the cone.
The doffing head gets stuck when the yarn end can't be detected due to which it stops and expects the
operator to rectify the same.
The doffing head at times stops at times due to no maintenance and thus some were not capable of doffing
and feeding the new cone efficiently
The efficiency of the manual feeding and doffing machines was very low due to the regular cuts and joints
which take time and thus lower the efficiency
82
Fig 6.49- Manual Repair
Trainee's input
If the yarns are cut more often (after very small intervals) then there is a fault in the simplex part of the
process thus leading to knotted or poorly spun yarn which could be rectified at the simplex stage.
If yarn cuts are longer then it should be rectified at the ring frame as the yarns are not twisted properly
Due to RH% (60%), the open end of the cone thread gets stuck and is not easily detectable by the
suction arm so to ease the process, the operator could use a brush to locate the open end faster and
efficiently.
High watt light source could be used to lower the humidity and avoid sticking the yarn on the cone,
thus would help is easier picking of yarn.
83
6.13 Electronic Yarn Clearer
In order to improve the quality of the yarn and the effectiveness of weaving, a yarn clearer is a tool that is used
to eliminate the following flaws in the yarn. The step of winding yarn includes clearing the yarn. In the current
textile industry, the clearer removes the flawed yarn from the fabric after finding the flaws, and the piecing
machine then stitches the ends together.
Faults of yarn
Thick and thin places
Slab and neps
Loose fabric
Foreign material
Mill requirement of yarn clearing controls has been developed for various stages in the spinning process to
improve the quality of the end product, i. E. Yarn. For this, piano-type auto leveller at blow-room, giving more
uniform lap, auto levellers at carding and draw frames to give more uniform sliver etc. But even with all these
controls, it is not possible to get 100% uniform yarn. The present concept of the yarn depends upon various
parameters like count, twist, strength, evenness and nepiness. The definition of quality yarn is incomplete until
the yarn faults are taken into consideration and eliminated.
Mechanism used- Premier iQON
Unique and Innovative InfraRed technology to detect non-cotton material, viz; White PP
First of its kind Classification for White PP into 12 classes to analyse and optimize the setting process
High-Resolution sampling at 1mm length and 1% amplitude for accurate yarn clearing
The fundamental concept of Classify and Clear is a single process which first classifies the fault and then
clears, greatly enhancing the reliability of the system
Zoom in each class into 9 sub-classes to visualize the exact distribution of faults for accurate and quicker
optimisation of the clearing curve
Flexible and Fine Curve setting enables end-use-based optimisation of clearing curve
Unique comparison across Winding groups helps identify the exceptions rapidly
An Intelligent technology avoids erroneous operation due to fluff accumulation
Two parallel plate capacitor is used in which air and material of yarn is used as dielectric medium.The
variation in capacitance is proportional to the mass of the short length of moving yarn between the plates of
the capacitor.
Fig 6.50- Capacitor plates effect
84
Operator cleaning takes ~30 seconds to clean one winding unit and takes 6-7 hrs to clean all the winding units
of the Autoconers
Cradle- For holding the cone while winding

Splicer- For knotting the two ends of the threads
Suction- For finding the open end of the cone
6.14 DOUBLE YARN WINDING

The yarn doubling technique involves grouping (combining) two separate yarns and then twisting the resulting
yarns and winding them around another cone attached to the winding unit.
Objectives of yarn doubling process:
To increase the yarn's tensile strength.

To boost the yarn's suppleness
in order to make the yarn less hairy.
To increase the yarn's capacity for absorbing moisture.
To shorten the weaving process of sizing.
To increase the yarn's evenness.
Machine used for the same:

SW 002 (D/W-2) - 2 units.
EliTwist - 2 units (1334 winding units)
Types of Yarn Doubling Process
Ring doubling machine

Two for one doubling machine (TFO)
Fig 6.51- Doubling and Twisting
TFO Doubling Machine
It is divided into two steps:

Two yarns are grouped together without any twist with the help of a parallel winding machine i.e. SW
002 (D/W) with 762 rpm
The yarn obtained is then converted into cops which are loaded into a doubling machine for cone
formation with the desired twist
Ring Doubling Machine

The procedure of doubling rings is one stage. Twisted together are two or more yarn packets. The ring frame
uses the same twisting mechanism.
Machine Used: EliTwist
⦁ 12 hrs for 1 cop to wind
⦁ The weight of 1 cop is 145 gms and the thread on it is 100 gms
⦁ The weight of 1 bobbin is 500 gm and the thread wound is 420 gms
85
6.15 SINGEING
Singeing or gassing is the process which involves burning of protruding or projecting fibers from the surface of
the yarn for achieving following mentioned objectives:
Singeing of yarn makes it more compact and makes the yarn surface lustrous.
Singeing or gassing removes the bulk of protruding fibers from the surface of the yarn smoother and finer.
Fig 6.52- RITE Singeing Machine
After yarn winding is done some yarn cones are sent for singeing. Not all yarn go under this process, only for
making voile fabric.
TYPE I
No. of machines: 2
Table 6.2- RITE Machine Details
86
TYPE II
No. of machines: 2 Machines (Single row)
Table 6.3- PEASS Details
In order to make the worker’s job easier and save time, these machines have been equipped with an automatic
device that lifts the feeding package up when the empty tube has to be replaced with a new package or there is
a simple knot to be made after a breakage. By pressing the start button, it will be subsequently lowered. In
order to keep the feeding packages clean, a spindle separator that can also eliminate the balloon has been
studied.
Each Spindle consists of:

Grooved drum with 5 porcelains treated with chromium superficially.
• Package holder arm with removable centers for conicity grade from 0° up to 5°57’: the new design allows to
pass from P to Q type packages easily.
• Pneumatic control of counterweight pressure to produce soft packages.
• Cleaning system for the just singed yarn: when the yarn has just come out of the burner, the cleaning unit
removes ash and dust from the yarn and they are then sucked by the ash suction unit set at the end of the
machine.
Fig 6.53- Singed Cone Fig 6.54- Yarn Knotting Equipment
87
6.16 CONDITIONING
Before selling to clients, the yarn must undergo a process called conditioning to rehydrate it. For all forms of
yarn, yarn conditioning serves as a heat setting that promotes elasticity and improves performance in
subsequent processes. These are done to the yarns that are to be exported or shipped.
Why it is required:
Moisture lost due to high-speed spinning
Fibre strength and elasticity are increased with an increase in humidity
Weight gaining
Curing of nepiness and protruding fibres
Process:
Low-temperature, vacuum-saturated steam is used in thermal conditioning. The yarn is handled extremely
carefully in a completely saturated steam environment using the vacuum principle and indirect steam. To
ensure faster steam penetration and to prevent oxidation, the vacuum first removes air pockets from the yarn
bundle. It also removes atmospheric oxygen. The physical characteristics of saturated steam or wet steam are
utilised in the conditioning process (100 per cent moisture in gas-state). The gas moistens the yarn equally. The
main benefit of this method is that the gaseous moisture is spread very evenly throughout the yarn package and
doesn't adhere to the yarn in the form of drips. Whether the yarn packets are packaged on open pallets or in
cardboard boxes, this is accomplished in any cross-wound bobbin.
Conditions required:
1 hr conditioning for cones
1/2 hr conditioning for cops that are to be double winded
1 1/2 hr conditioning for singed cone
75 C for Cones
95 C for Singed Cones
60 C for Cops
Fig 6.55- Conditioned Yarn
88
Machine used: SARA ELGI PROFIX- 2 units
Fig 6.56- Sara Elgi Profix
6..17 PRE-HUMIDIFICATION
Before the yarns are to be sent for weaving, it is set in a pre-humidification room for 3 hours where the
temperature is 25-35 degree celsius with 65% RH.
The capacity of the room is to accommodate 80 boxes i.e. around 200-300 cones.
Pre-humidification is very similar to conditioning used for to rehydrate the yarn at the finish line before
selling it to buyers. For all types of yarn, yarn conditioning simultaneously functions as a heat setting that
gives flexibility and improved performance in the next procedure.
After the yarns are conditioned they are sent to the yarn packing area via a trolley with 192 cones in
batches.
89
Inspection in yarn packaging area
Shade Variation
Count Variation under UV Light
Tip Damage
Plastic tip cover
Weight check of cones and the box
If any defect is recognized then it is either rectified there itself or to the source of error i.e. winding section.
6.18 YARN PACKAGING
Yarn Packaging Box Information
40s- 1.89 kg, 24 Cones Box- 45.36 kg

50s- 1.89 kg, 24 Cones Box- 45.36 kg
60s Compact- 1.89kg, 24 Cones Box- 45.36 kg
60s Non compact- 1.5kg, 32 Cones Box- 48 kg
67s- 1.15 kg, 52 Cones Box- 55 kg
91s- 1.5 kg, 50 Cones Box- 75 kg
76 Polyester- 1.5 kg, 40 Cones Box- 60 kg
2/60s Australian Cotton- 1.89 kg
504 Cone= 1 Pallet= 952.56 kg
12 Cone = 1 Box= 22.68 kg
1 Caddy= 20 pallete Fig 6.57- Yarn Caddy
Plastic hoops are attached to the cone tips to prevent damage and then they are loaded into the box. After
loading the cones the weight of the box is checked and then sealed with a label attached
The number of operators required:

1 for checking and putting slips using gum
1 for attaching plastic tips and putting in plastic covers
1 for putting it in the box placed on the weighing scale.
1 for keeping the note of the cones and entering it into a file
In a day about 80 boxes are packed for shipping or exports etc. Depending upon the quantity, the number
varies.
90
6.19 LAB TESTING
After every stage in yarn formation, tests are performed for checking consistent quality assurance. There are a
number of tests that happen. Following are the machines used and their purpose.
Condition: RH: 65% and Temp 27 degrees Celsius.
6.19.1 Premier iQ3

Module to test all Evenness properties
Simple Bobbin Carrier for Yarn & Unwinding device
for Roving and Sliver
Computer and Peripherals, Printer
Measuring principle (Total of 10 readings are taken)

Evenness: Capacitance
Hairiness Index: Optical
Ambient Condition
Relative Humidity: 65 ± 2%
Temperature: 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F)
Power · Single Phase 1.0 kVA UPS
Compressed air -13 m /hr at 6 bar Fig 6.58- Premier iQ3
6.19.2 Premier Tensomaxx
Temperature- 21 Degree C
Compressed Air- 26 m3/hr at 6 bar
Phase- Single Phase
Test Length- 500 mm (Yarn),200 mm (Fabric)
Total 10 readings are taken
Yarn Test Speed- 5000 mm/min
Lea and Fabric Test Speed- 500 mm/min
6.19.3 Premier aQura2 Fig 6.59- Premier Tensomaxx
Relative Humidity- 65 +- 2%
Compressed Air- 16.5 m3/he at 6 bar
Testing Time- 3 Minutes
Measuring Principle (Total 3 readings are taken)
Nep : Through a coherent LASER device
Length : Optical LED array measurement on an end-aligned sample
Fig 6.60- Premier aQuara2
91
Classification of Neps into Fibre and Seed Coat
Neps/ gram
Nep size in microns (um)
aQura Length and User defined length
Effective Length
Short Fibre Content (SFC by number and weight)
Key Technology
Aero Mechanical Individualiser (AMI)
Laser based Nep detection
End aligned Length measurement
6.19.4 EleTwist
Gauge Length: 1 to 20 inches (1 to 50 cm)
Counting system: Direct result; In-built calculations; Readout in dot-matrix display
Control system : Microcomputer-based pre-selectable.
Programmable Parameters: Measurement unit, Sample length & type, Twist direction and Speed index,
etc.
Elongation setting range: - 10 to + 100 mm
Tensioning range: 1 to 90 grams (By calibrated augment weights)
Power supply: Single phase 220vAC @ 50Hz;
Consumption: 100 watts
Fig 6.61- Ele Twist
Determine yarn twist in single or plied yarn.

Works under the principle of single & triple untwist-retwist method and direct-counting method.
Direct TPI and TPM results in digital display
92
6.19.5 EleStretch XT
Accuracy : ± 0.1 lbf / ± 0.05 kgf / 0.5 Nf

Rate of Extension : 300 ± 10 mm / min
Result storage capacity : 500 test results ( Total 10 readings are taken)
Control system: Detachable microcomputer-based solid-state electronic
control system
Drive System : Integrated, inline induction motor and directly coupled gearing
mechanism
Display : Alphanumeric back-lighted LCD display
Power supply : Single phase 220vAC @ 50Hz;
Consumption : 300 watts
Applicable Standard(s) : ASTM D1578 & IS 1671
Fig 6.62- EleStrech XT
93
CHAPTER 7
WEAVING
95
Folding and
Packaging
Weaving Looms-02
Warp Winfinf
Final Inspection
NOTE - The plant layout is not to the scale.

Fig 7.1- Plant Layout of Weaving Unit
96
Warping Sizing-02
Weaving Looms-01
7.1 PLANT LAYOUT - WEAVING
Reliable
Storeroom
PDC Department
Drawing Manual Drawing
WEAVING PROCESS FLOW
Preperatory Process (Warping)

Autopropeller
Warping
Sizing
Auto Drawing Manual Drawing Gating
Looms
Fig. 7.2 Weaving Process Flow
97
7.2 PREPARATORY PROCESS(WARPING)
Auto Propeller Machine (3 units)
Brand: SSM
Model: TWX-D
Winding Unit: 84
Speed: 700m/min
Layout: Doube sided
The yarn gets blackened due to incorrect the new modular winding machine platform, available with all three
leading SSM winding technologies.
Fig 7.3- SSM Auto Propeller

Working
The SSM TWX is a precision assembly winder for all kind of staple yarns. The machine is equipped with the
latest edition of counter-rotating blades for gentlest yarn treatment.
Precision winding by counter rotating blades for highest possible densities, best unwinding properties 15"
touch-screen machine terminal for ease of use Optional automatic doffer system for maximum productivity
optional integrated 3-ply creel with individual yarn detection sensor for each ply
Package shape: cylindrical or conical

Traverse length: 155 mm, mechanically adjustable ± 5 mm. Take-up package diameter up to 300 mm
Package weight up to 8 kg .
Supply package diameter 2-plies up to 280 mm / 3-plies up to 240 mm (with balloon separators)
Brand: VIJAYA Auto Propeller m/c

Winding Unit: 120
Layout: Doube sided
Speed: from 300 to 1200 MPM depends on the count of yarn
This machine has an easily adjustable anti-pattern device with a cast iron structure. It is suitable for plastic as
well as paper cones. There is an adjustable slub catcher with ceramic Blades for abrasion-free yarn passage.
There is a proven double disc type tension device. The tension can be increased simply by adding and
removing weight washers. There is also standard overhead to and fro type suction and blowing type.
98
Brand: Pilot Motor
Type: High speed cone/cheese winder
Winding Unit: 120
Layout: Doube sided
Speed: 600 m/min
Fig 7.4- Pilot Motor Winder

7.3 WARPING
The next step in the procedures utilised after winding is warping. The procedure is putting yarn onto a warper's
beam or a weaver's beam from a predetermined number of tubes, cones, or cheeses placed on the creel. Either
a weaver's beam, a package that is set up on the rear of the weaving machine, or a number of warper's beams,
packages that are delivered to the sizing process after being prepared during winding. There are typically two
ways to warp using various technologies:
Direct warping, also known as direct beaming (or beaming), and

Indirect warping, also known as sectional warping.
Depending on the specification of fabric to be created, either method can be employed with spun or continuous
filament yarns. Here, the yarn-dyed are used for sectional warping while greige yarns are used for direct
warping
Fig 7.5- Direct Warping
99
The next step is to place the cones on the furnace, In sectional warping, it is a very important step and it
determines the pattern to be formed. It is an odd-even system that is followed.
1
2
3
4
Fig 7.5- Odd-Even System of Cone Arrangement

In the above schematic diagram, it shows the 1st and the 5th creel have the same color and so is the
combination of 2nd,6th ; 3rd,7th ; 4th,8th. If there are more colours to be incorporated or an irregular pattern
is followed then it is possible to be done following the same process and so on. In warping, two
mechanisms are present:
Yarn breakage sensor
Creel moving system- increasing yarn tension when the thread breaks and the machine stops. And
releasing tension after some seconds of smooth running.
Fig 7.6- Warping
100
7.4 SIZING
Sizing is a weaving preparatory process that occurs after warping. It is a critical and time-consuming
preparatory process. "The sizing process is the application of a thin film of adhesive and binder on the yarn
surface to improve weavability." It is required when weaving with single-ply spun yarn. The sizing process has
a direct impact on the loom's performance and the quality of the fabric to be woven. The warp sheet is
immersed in an adhesive and binder paste during this process, and then the warp is squeezed properly to
remove excess adhesive. The warp has now dried and the ends have been separated. The warp ends are now
wound around the weaver's beam. After the sizing process, the strength of the warp yarn is increased. The
hairiness of the yarn is also reduced. Warp yarn is passed under moderate tension during the sizing process.
This tension causes some stretch in the yarn, reducing elongation after sizing. This is a disadvantage of the
sizing procedure.
Fig 7.7- Benninger Zell Sizing Machine
Many different types of sizing agents are used in the sizing process to improve the yarn's various properties.
This procedure is carried out with care and precision. Many difficulties in weaving result in improper and poor
sizing. An excessive amount of sizing also causes problems. The amount of size pick-up is determined by the
yarn parameters used in the warp yarn. The correct sizing ingredient selection is critical to the quality
performance of sizing. Better process control and quality control in sizing always result in the best sizing
process performance.
Objective of sizing
• To improve the weavability of warp yarn.

• To improve the fibre to fibre adhesion force in the yarn.
• To prevent slippage of fibres in the yarn during weaving.
To make the yarn twist permanent by applying adhesive film on the yarn surface. The twist in unsized yarn
tends to untwist due to rolling action during weaving so that it necessitates to be fixed.
• To strengthen the warp yarn.
• To improve the abrasion resistance of warp yarn.
• To protect the yarn from being ruptured during passing through drop pin, the eye of heald wire and dent of
reed.
• To reduce the hairiness of warp yarn.
• To improve the smoothness of warp yarn.
• To ensure maximum efficiency of the weaving process.
• To prevent the development of electrostatic charges in the yarn during weaving.
101
SIZING MACHINES
Wrap speed at slow run – 3 to 7 meter/min.

Warp speed at work – 40 to 65 meter/min.
Maximum length in the drying part – 15 to 25 meters.
Maximum temperature of the drying cylinder surface – 110-135 C.
Warping beam diameter – 600 to 800 mm.
Size beam diameter – 600 to 700 mm.
Cylinder sizing machine – In which the warp is dried by contact with the hot surface of the cylinder
Chemical used for sizing

For Polyester:-
1. CEL Size PVR
2. KIRLON JET
3. PVA -631
4. SICO -12
5. PR 30
6. TEXTILE WAX
7. EUL- PC
8. SIZOLOAN 5
9. WATER
For cotton :-
1. ALPENOL -128kg
2. FIN A5
3. WATER -625 KG
Fig 7.8- Chemicals Used
Brand : BENNINGER Zell sizing machine(1 unit)
M/c Model: BEN SIZETEK ZB – 20 SWA TKDZT4/6BB
Creel capacity: 1 Sectional warp beam, Extra – 20 capacity
Others: Single size box, Double dip, 10 drying cylinder.
Both the machine is equipped with BEN SIZEMIX size cooking and storage apparatus. A total of 20
(maximum) direct warp beam can be combined and sized to make weavers beam. Moreover an additional
unwinding frame provides the facility to size sectional warped beam (beam to beam)
Fig 7.9- Benninger Zell Sizing Machine
102
Brand: Benninger Zell Sizing Machine
Model: BEN-SIZETEC
Width: 2400 mm
Composed of :
-Benninger beams creel model ZA20 for 12 fractional beams
each width 1800 mm (flange to flange)
max flange diam 1250 mm , with air pneumatic barking system.
Maintenance of sizing machinery
Problem 1: Creel housing vibration.

Solve – Change the key of creel housing. Fig 7.10- Benninger Zell Sizing Machine
Problem 2: Pressure does not adjust properly.

Result: Uneven sizing.
Cause: Worn out pressure roller.
Remedies: Grinding the roller/ Change the roller.
Problem 3: Winding tension does not correct

Result: Hard/loose warp beam.
Cause: PVI box does not work correctly.
Remedies: Maintenance of PVI box of Sizing Machine
For Dyed Yarn (Benninger)
⦁ Weight of one beam is about 150 kg (Tare Weight)

⦁ Weight of the fabric rolled is around 60 kg (60s), 80 kg (40s) etc
⦁ Length of the fabric is around 720m
⦁ Moisture control for cotton is 6% while for polyester is 7%
⦁ 3 operators can complete 8 beams of 700m in one shift
⦁ 2 operatos can complete 5 beams of 700m in one shift
For Grey Fabric (Benninger)
⦁ 5 beams in one shift

⦁ 80m/min is the speed which remain almost the same
⦁ 11 beam is about 4000m long
⦁ If the winding beam is to be done less than 8000m then only one sizing box is required else 2 sizing box.
⦁ The temperature of the sizing chemical mixture is 90 degree celcius
⦁ There are 4 cylinders in total and for one size box 2 cylinders are required
TEMPERATURE:
Temp of cylinders is 110 degree for higher count i.e. 80s
Temp of cylinders is 130-135 degree for lesser count i.e. 30s
103
MANUAL DRAWING
The PDC information sheet is received by the weaving department. The information sheet is then used by the
operators at different working stations for manual drawing. The weave pattern and the number of ends to be
passed through the dent are checked and accordingly, the beam received from sectional warping is fed into
the machine through the dents. Each dent is individually filled and the process requires at least two operators.
PDC information sheet received
Weave Pattern Checked
Beam received from sectional warping
Beam fed into the machine individuallly
Fig 7.11 - Manual Drawing
104
AUTO DRAWING
The warp beam after the sizing process is kept on a stand. The tapes attached to the ends are fixed through the
top. The tapes are removed and the combing of fibers is done using the metal comber having thin and close
bristles. Once the combing is done, the warp beam is then taken to the Auto Drawing Machine along with the
stand. The beam is fed into the machine and the machine is switched on. The machine then pulls the beam
through the dopper. This is called drafting. Once the drafting is done, it is then taken to the looms where
denting is done.
Warp Beam is kept on the stand
The ends of the beam fixed to the top of the

stand
Combing of the ends using the metal comber
Beam fed into the machine
Drafting
Denting
Fig 7.12 - Loading of warp beam
105
Machine used - Staubli SAFIR S60 Auto Drawing Machine
Machine Feature and specifications -

Yarn Type - Cotton and blends (combed and carded)
Minimal Space Requirement, Ergonomically built
Suitable Yarn Size Range - 1.1 - 67 tex
Working Width - 2.3 m
Fig 7.13 - Staubli SAFIR S60 Auto Drawing Machine
106
7.5 LOOMS
A loom is a device used for weaving. It converts the prepared yarn and weaves them into the greige fabric.
There are different types of looms used in the mill -

Airjet loom
Projectile loom
Rapier loom
Shuttle Loom
7.5.1 SHUTTLE LOOMS
Warp yarns (the vertical yarns) are set in the loom, the pattern is programmed in, and a shuttle carrying the
weft yarn (the horizontal filler yarns) is shuttled horizontally across the loom which is then beaten together
with the warp yarns to begin creating the fabric.
The shuttle makes numerous continuous passes back and forth with that single weft yarn which is what
creates the finished edges.
Fig 7.14- Shuttle Loom
Shuttle Looms (Machines)

Lakshmi Ruti C (80machines)
Ruti machines can also be used for dobby patterns
Machine specification
Machine efficiency - 70 to 80 %
Speed - 180 m/min
In case of any machine breakdowns, the machine stops on its own preventing the fabric to be wove further
and thus helps to increase the quality.
107
7.5.2 AIRJET LOOMS
An air-jet loom is a shuttleless loom that uses a jet of air to propel the weft yarn through the warp shed.
In an air-jet loom, yarn is pulled from the supply package, and the measuring disc removes a length of
yarn from the width of the fabric being woven.
A clamp holds the yarn and an auxiliary air nozzle forms it into the shape of a hairpin.
The main nozzle blows the yarn, the clamp opens, and the yarn is carried through the shed.
At the end of the insertion cycle, the clamp closes, the yarn is beaten in and cut, and the shed is
closed.The jets are electronically controlled, with an integrated database
Fig 7.15- Airjet Loom

Airjet Looms (Machines) Tsudakoma Zax - N
Tsudakoma ZaX Master 9200 i Machine Speed - 650 rpm
Tsudakoma Zan X Width - 360 cm
Tsudakoma Zax Professional 9100 Volatage - 380 V
Tsudakoma Airjet Jacquard COI - Japan
A total of 41 airjet looms are there
Tsudakoma Zax Master 9200 Tsudakoma Professional 9100

Efficiency - 80 to 90 %
Speed - 650 rpm Loom Dimension -190cm
4 Nozzles Machine Speed - 850 RPM
Each loom equipped with 4 weft accumulator Power Source - Electricity
10 heald frame
1.5 cloth roller
Tsudakoma Airjet Jaquard
1.5 warp beam ø800mm
Metal of Construction - Metal Speed - 750 to 900 Rpm
Working Width - 230 cm Working Width - 190 cm, 230 cm, 280 cm
Electronic independent selvage motion Machine dimension - 3.2m~4.7m X 1.8m X
1.7m (L x W x H)
108
7.5.3 RAPIER LOOMS
Rapier loom is a shuttleless loom machine. Here, filling yarn is carried through the shed of the warp yarns
into another side of the loom by finger-like carriers.
The rapier head picks up the filling yarn and carries it through the shed. After reaching the destination, the
rapier head returns empty to pick up the next filling yarn.  In some versions of the loom, two rapiers are
used, each half the width of the fabric in size. One rapier carries the yarn to the centre of the shed, where the
opposing rapier picks up the yarn and which carries the filling the rest of the way across the loom
Parts of Rapier Loom
Motor
Crank shaft
Bottom shaft
Grippers tapes
Rapier Loom Sensors
Rapier Loom Cutters
Rapier Loom Driving Wheel
Rapier Loom Tapes
Advantages of a Rapier Loom Fig 7.16- Rapier Loom
1. The main advantages of rapier loom machine have presented in the following:
2. Rapier loom is too much perfect for weft patterning.
3. Rapier loom has a simple mechanism.
4. Fancy fabric is produced here.
5. Higher production cost than others loom machine.
6. Production speed of rapier loom machine varies from 200-260 ppm.
7. This type of loom machine consumes moderate power than others
Rapier Looms (Machines)
Vamatex Leonardo
A total of 35 rapier were used in the mill
Vamatex Leonardo Rapier Loom
Power - 5.5 kW
Loom Size - 260 cm
Speed - 400 rpm
Efficiency - 95 5
Voltage - 220 V
109
7.5.4 PROJECTILE LOOM
A projectile weaving machine is a shuttleless loom method for filling yarn insertion using a small metal
device resembling a bullet in appearance with a clamp for gripping the yarn at one end, which is then
propelled into and through the shed.
In this weaving machine, the weft insertion is carried out by small clamp projectiles, which number
depends on the weaving width and which with their grippers take out the weft yarn from big cross-wound
bobbins and insert it into the shed always in the same direction.
Projectile Looms (Machine)

Sulzer PU
Sulzer P7300
Piconal Optimax
Fig 7.17- Projectile Loom; Light and Sound readings
110
CHAPTER 8
PROCESSING
111
CAD
Printing
Testing Engraving
LAB Print
Washer
Printing
Fig 8.1- Plant Layout of Processing Unit

Mercerization
Finishing
112
Bleaching Dyeing
Finishing
Desizing
8.1 PLANT LAYOUT - PROCESSING
Bleaching
Jet Dyeing Yarn Dyeing
PROCESS FLOW - PROCESSING
Greige Fabric
Desizing/ Singeing
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Fabric Dyeing Printing
Finished
Fabric Rotation Digital Screen (Rotary)
Sanforization
Ageing
Calendering
Stentering Washing
Fig. Flow Process Processing

8.2 YARN DYEING
Process:
⦁ Receives recipe from colour kitchen approved by the head of the department and the winding plan which
includes the weight and type of yarn to be dyed
⦁ The recipe consists of the composition of colour as well as the preparatory bath that is to be done for that
yarn type
⦁ A 3gm yarn is taken out from the dyed roll and is sent for confirmation to the yarn dyeing department
head
Data Collected:
⦁ Glauber salt is used for all kinds of yarn

⦁ Reactive dyes are used irrespective of the yarn type.
⦁ Vat is used for selvedges i.e. 45 cones (1.2 kg each ~ 54 kg)
⦁ The weight of yarn(warp and weft individually) is divided by 1.2 kg and we get the number of cheese i.e.
cone number to be dyed the remaining is done in the same bath as well
⦁ Minimum is 500gm of one cone
⦁ A perforated tube is used to exert even pressure, while soda is used so that it spreads evenly in to out of
the tube(cone)
⦁ Primary 12 colours are used
⦁ Pressure is constantly at 4kgP
⦁ Earlier soda ash was used which is now replaced with LSN as it is 1/6th consumed
Fig 8.2- Tank for Continuous Dyeing Range
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Preparatory Process
Tubes are loaded

Chemicals(AIA, NBO, Acetic Acid, GKS, H202, KAT, LSN and Sarasoft are loaded into one tank,
dyes in one and one remain empty for extracting extra(in any) mixed
Is left at 90-93 degrees Celcius for 2-2.5 kgs
Is taken out and kept aside
To check absorbency, whiteness and pH
Dyeing Process
⦁ Dyeing preparation is done which takes 10 minutes
⦁ Then tubes are loaded for dyeing at 60 degrees and takes
6 hrs for Light shade
7.5 hrs for Medium shade
9-9.5 hrs for a Darker shade
⦁ The bath consists of- Dyes, Glauber's salt, Buffer LSN, AIA, Acetic Acid, NBO and Sarasoft.
⦁ Lyogen DFT is a levelling agent (equal dispersal of dye) for polyester
⦁ SETAMOL WL is a dispersing agent for dyes (mostly for polyester)
⦁ AB-45 is used for maintaining pH levels of some dyes (not widely used)
⦁ Hydros for Vat dyes as a reduction agent
⦁ ECO is fixing agent
⦁ Caustic is a reduction agent
⦁ LSN is softener for polyester
Fig 8.3- Dyeing Bath Preparation Tanks

Hydroextractor
After the dyeing is done is it sent to a hydroextractor which has a capacity of 24 cones at one time as there are
8 spindles with 3 cone capacity each
The process takes 5 minutes for each extraction. Here about 55% of water is removed.
114
SOP Control Parameter
Carrier Cone Check

Count check
Machine Check
Absorbency
Whitening
Before Dyeing Ph (6-6.5)
Dyes Weight
Heating Rate
Cooling Rate
Pressure check (in to out and out to in)
Soda Ash Ph (10-11)
Cycle Time (in to out and out to in)
Soaping Ph (8-8.5)
Before softener Ph (6-6.5)
After Softener Ph (6.5 - 7)
Fig 8.4- Dyeing Bath Preparation Tanks
115
Radio Frequency Drier
After hydro extraction, it is sent to an RF Dryer where the cones are kept on a cathode platform with a capacity
of 36 cones in 1m. It goes into the machine where the anode is placed on top and about 40%-45% of the water
is evaporated under the temperature of 95 degrees Celsius. It take 1 hour for it to complete.
Fig 8.5- RFD
Greige Stage
Preparatory Process (Scouring cum Bleaching)
Check pH, Absorbency and Whiteness
Dyeing
All process completed
Hydroextraction
Removes 55% moisture
RF Drier
Takes it down to 7% moisture
Go for winding
Handover to dyed yarn godown
Distributes to dL wise loom
Fig 8.6- Dyeing Process Flow
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8.3 FABRIC SINGEING & DESIZING
The fibres sticking out from yarns or textiles are eliminated during the dry singeing and desizing procedure
applied to woven goods. By passing the fibres over a flame or heated copper plates, these are destroyed.
Desizing and singeing enhance the woven items' external look and lessen pilling. For fabrics that will be
printed or where a smooth finish is sought, it is really helpful. Relatively modest volumes of exhaust gases
from the burners are among the pollutants produced during singeing.
As randomly projecting fibres are eliminated during singeing, which could produce a dispersed reflection
of light, the likelihood of skittery dyeings with singed products colored in dark colors is significantly
decreased.
Machine Used- Kusters Calico Continuous Singeing and Desizing Machine
Fig 8.7- Kusters Calico Continuous Singeing and Desizing Machine
Singeing position- Flame meets at right angle onto densely woven fabric freely guided between 2
rollers.
Onto water-cooled roller- Flame meets at right-angle onto the fabric passing over the water-cooled
roller, recommended for fabrics made of temperature-sensitive fibres
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Onto water-cooled roller- Flame meets at right-angle onto the fabric passing over the water-cooled
roller, recommended for fabrics made of temperature-sensitive fibres
Tangential singeing- Flame passes tangentially over the fabric guided over a water-cooled roller,
recommendable for fabrics that cannot tolerate direct exposure to flame and for the repair of
filamentation.
Conditions Required for Singeing and Desizing:
Speed- 60-80 m/min

The temperature of the steam- is 70 degree Celsius
The temperature of the water- is 84 degree Celsius
List of chemicals used-
WBL- 4.0 ml/l
NBO- 4.0 ml/l
HEH- 5.0 ml/l
Acetic Acid- 100gm or 50 gm
Pressure- 14 kPa
Gas used- LPG
Fabric Width (mm) : 2000
Roller Width (mm) : 2200
After desizing is done it is kept for 8-12 hrs on a rotation stand (enzymes turn starch into glucose).
Fig 8.8- Kusters Calico Continuous Singeing and Desizing Machine
118
8.4 BLEACHING PROCESS
Bleaching is the 3rd step of wet processing. The process by which the natural color of a fibre can be
removed and make the textile material pure white and bright is called bleaching.
Objectives Of Bleaching
There are many objects as follows –

To remove the natural color.
To make the fabric permanent white and bright.
To increase the absorbency power of the cloth.
To increase dye affinity.
To ensure level dyeing property.
To make the fabric suitable for the next subsequent process.
Fig 8.11- Kuster Bleaching Machine
PROCESS:
First required fabric is loaded in the fabric loading stand then it is passed through different rollers to the
cold water then it is passed to the steam chamber and it is steamed for 14 min. Then passed to the
washer chamber at 95 deg Celsius then to the acid tank(acetic acid is used) then to the VDR (vertical
Drying Range). There is total of 16 cylinders 14 are hot cylinders with temp. 125⁰ c and 2 cylinders are
cold for cooling down the bleached fabric then finally it is passed through again cold water then it is
rolled to fabric rolling stand
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M/C Name: KUSTER
Fabric: Greige Fabric

Capacity: 27000m/ 8 hrs
Speed: 65 m/min
Pressure: 1.3 bar
Steamer temp: 100 deg celsius
Time(in steamer chamber): 14 min
PH Control
PH(White for printing section)- 5.5
PH(for dyeing section) -6.0
Water: 7 l/kg
Dwelling section pulling device, plaiter, reversing drum for plaiting on roller bed.
Roller bed with driven pulling rollers.
Exit the section with the sensible blade.
By-pass device for the roller bed. (Optional)
For Dyed fabric: Bleaching - 80 deg celsius
For grey fabric: Bleaching - 95 deg celsius
Fig 8.12- Chemical Process Flow in Bleaching Machine
CHEMICALS USED
H2O2 - 55ml/kg
Sequestering agent -3ml/kg
Wetting agent - 9 ml/kg
Caustic soda(NaOH) - 18ml/kg
Stablizer - 7 ml/kg
BMB(OBA) - For Full white(Cotton Polyester)
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8.5 FABRIC MERCERISATION
Mercerization is a chemical process used to permanently give cotton fibres and fabrics a higher affinity for
dyes and other chemical finishes. Depending on the process, mercerizing also increases the tensile
strength, absorptive capacity, and, typically, the degree of the shine of the cotton fabric.
The procedure is briefly submerging the yarn or fibre in a sodium hydroxide solution (caustic soda)—
typically for less than four minutes. The sodium hydroxide is subsequently neutralized by treating the
substance with either acid or water.
Material may shrink by up to one-fourth if no strain is applied; however, if tension is applied, the material
is prevented from shrinking noticeably.
Machine Used- Benninger Mercerizing Machine
Conditions Required for Mercerization:

Pressure- 0.18 MPa
Chemical used- Acetic Acid and Caustic Soda
10 rollers are used for drying
Speed- 40m/min
Temperatures
60-degree celsius for caustic IP chamber
70-degree celsius for stabilizer
90 degrees for washers
150-degree celsius for drying
Fig 8.9- Benninger Mercerizing Machine
121
Application of Caustic Soda and 2
Pinning Conveyor
mangles present to remove excess
To stretch the fabric by 15 cm approx in

Caustic IP Chamber
order to avoid shrinkage due to caustic
Washes off 50% Caustic Soda at 70

Stabilizer
degree celsius at 0.18 MPa
Removes the Caustic Soda by 90% at 90

Washer
degree celsius at 0.18 MPa
Application of Acetic Acid, neutralizes the

Acetic Acid Chamber
remaining Caustic Soda
To remove Acetic Acid at 90 degree

Washer
celsius temperature
To dry the fabric at 150 degree celsius

BDR Cylinders
temperature without any pressure
Fig 8.10- Flow Process of Mercerization
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8.6 FABRIC DYEING
Dyeing is a method that imparts beauty to the textile by applying various colors and shades to fabric.
Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile- fiber, yarn, fabric. The property of color
fastness depends upon two factors- selection of proper dye according to the textile material to be dyed and
selection of the method for dyeing the fiber, yarn, or fabric.
Types of dyes used:

Reactive dyes for the fabric.
Pad dyeing: Padding is also done while holding the fabric at full width. The fabric is passed through a
trough having dye in it. Then it is passed between two heavy rollers which force the dye into the cloth and
squeeze out the excess dye. Then it is passed through a heat chamber for letting the dye to set. After that, it
is passed through the washer, rinser, and dryer for completing the process.
M/C Name: Monforts continuous dyeing range

Fabric: suiting, shirting
Mangle pressure: L: 2.35 bar; M: 1.97bar ; R: 2.05bar
COLOR KITCHEN:
There are total 6 CDR tanks.

Capacity of tank: 250 L, 500 L, 1000 L
CHEMICAL USED:
Caustic and soda

Silicate
CPB GRASP
TEMPERATURE: Suiting fabric - 210 Deg. Celsius & recontroll 120 Deg. Celsius
Source: https://Monforts.com
Fig 8.13- Monforts CDR
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8.7 COLOR KITCHEN
In colour kitchen, the sampling in charge gets the colour paper printed of the design which is then made
into recipes along with the concentration. He decides whether the design has to be pigment, reactive or
discharge base which is then given to the colour kitchen for sample creation. The operators in the colour
kitchen make the recipes according to the standard chart provided. They put a drop of each color on a
100% cotton fabric and then folded in half which is then sent to the dryer machine for 4 to 5 minutes at a
temperature of 80-degree celsius then. They again check with the Pantone TCX number shade which
passed is then washed and checked the same. The samples are then sent to the incharge for approval which
is finally sent to the CAD department for design on the same TCX shade number. The design made is then
sent to the digital printing department (if) which creates sample and checks with the original. If the shades
are darker or lighter than they change the RGB values to get the right shade. Then it is mass-produced.
Table 8.1- Recipe for Pigment Paste Table 8.2- Recipe for Discharge Paste
Type of color is dependent on
Coverage of color in accordance with design Table 8.3- Recipe for Reactive Paste
The nature of fabric used
Type of color used with respect to fabric
Pigments for polycotton (60/40)
Reactive for cotton
Discharge for dyed based
Process
Pigment- Ageing>Curing
Reactive- Ageing>Washing>Drying
Discharge- Ageing>Curing>Washing
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8.8 SCREEN PRINTING
We can comprehend what is meant by the term "textile printing," which refers to designs and colours
printed on fabric. Printing is the process of using a variety of chemicals and dyes to paint a design created
by an artist and transferring it to a cloth or other material with the aid of various types of apparatus and
technology.
The flat screen in flat screen printing technology slides up and down. In addition, the Rotary screen
revolves and is a circle in size.
The Squeeze is used in flat screen printing. Only a roller is utilised in rotary screen printing.
Flat screen printing is used on fabric with a narrow width (45–50′′). On the other side, Rotary screen
printing is used to print huge-width fabric.
There are only 6 to 8 colours available for flat screen printing patterns. However, you can employ 16
to 24 shades in a pattern if you use Rotary Screen printing.
Nickel prices went high due to the Russia-Ukraine war, LME stopped taking bets on Nickel and
increase in demand by world manufacturers as Russia manufactures 10% of the world's nickel.
Time of Rotary Screen Inspection
3sec to load
4sec to tape on one side
4sec to tape on another side
16-20sec to inspect
3sec to offload
Nickel Rotary Cylinders
⦁ Imported from Austria via an Indian supplier

⦁ Different colour designs are engraved on different screens
⦁ Screens are set from the darkest to the lightest colour.
⦁ The maximum number is 16 but nowadays not more than 8 screens are prefered for rotary printing.
⦁ The circumference of the screen is 640 mm so the maximum size of the design repeat could be 640 mm.
⦁ The length of the rotary varies from 1.4 m to 2 m with a printable area of 1.25 m to 1.8 m.
⦁ Endings are nickel made with printed code
Process
Nickel rotary cylinders are first coated with photo-sensitive material i.e. Stork SCR 110 emulsion or
Jemkon High-Performance Flooring Solution which is then kept in Stork Climatizer RSE- 3210 at 38
degrees Celcius for 15-20 minutes. It is then either
125
Taken to curing machine i.e. Stork RSE 3511 Polymerizer for 2 hours at about PV 78 and SV 180 if
has to be taken to laser engraver (SPG Laser Engraving Machine) which takes around 25 minutes or
Directly taken to Inkjet which takes about 40 minutes to complete one screen and then it is washed
after which it is taken to Polymerizer for 2 hours at about PV 78 and SV 180.
After which it is then taken to a touching stand for filling or opening of pores if left undone. For the
opening, a pores needle is used and for filling retouching SCR 166 is used. Which is then taken to
Polymerizer for 5-10 mins
Quality Aspect of Rotary Screen Printing
Crop marks are placed at the non-printable area (one on each rotary) to ensure that each rotary prints the
crop mark superimposed on the previous one.
Flat Bed Screen
Less Investment Cost: Because hand screen printing does not require a machine and can be done in a
smaller area, the overall investment is less than that of other screen printing methods.
Risk-Free: Hand screen printing uses no heavy equipment or automated machinery. There is
therefore no risk.
The hand screen printing process allows for the effective use of multiple colours in multicolour
designs.
Less Floor Area Is Needed: Since hand screen printing uses lighter, bigger, and less complex
equipment, it takes up less space to set up.
Suitable for Small-Scale Production: Hand screen printing is a good starting option if you plan to
construct a screen printing factory for your small local business because it costs less money upfront.
Fig 8.14- Colour Swatch Book
126
Fabric is fed into the printer section
↓
The fabric passes under the rotating screens
↓
Pumping of printing paste
↓
Squeezing of print paste
↓
The fabric passes into drying woven
↓
Curing and Washing
Fig 8.15- Flowprocess of rotary screen printing
Mesh fabric tight with frame

↓
Applied chemical autosol and potassium
dichromate on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.
↓
Light passes through the design paper & mesh
fabric for 3-4 min.
↓
Remove the colored TXR from the design area
by water spraying.
↓
Cleaning and Drying
Fig 8.16- Flowprocess of flat screen printing
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SOPs for Printing Screen Stripping

Yardage screens are developed for rotary printing. The machine should not be stripped unless gets
approval for marketing.
If yardage-developed screens are kept pending for 60 days then the engraving department should tell the
marketing department.
The engraving department will retain the exposed screen for 6 days from the order confirmed date.
The engraving department should communicate with FWH regarding packed printed designs for the
stripping of the screens
In case, retaining the exposed screens is high new screens can be used for running the designs.
In case of repeated orders, shortfall quantity is to be printed prior. Prior intimation needs to be given from
FWH, marketing, PPC, and printing to engraving.
All the screens need to be stored separately and need to be identified.
If screens are engraved outside, they should be stored for more than 3 weeks.
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8.9 CAD Department
CAD stands for computer-aided design. It is a department responsible for creating the designs for rotary
print and preparing the various designs that are to be digitally printed. CAD department uses various types
of software. They are as follows-
Photoshop
Corel Draw
Best Image
Illustrator
Workflow of Cad Department
The cad department receives the design from the customer

The design is converted into the digital form
The design is then printed on paper.
Shades are changed accordingly and adjusted depending on the needs
The design is then printed onto the fabric
The shades are then changed again depending on the needs
A final print is done on the fabric for final inspection
Adobe Photoshop
Adobe Photoshop is a raster graphics editor developed and published by Adobe Inc. for Windows and
macOS. In the CAD department, it is used for creating various designs to be printed through digital
printing
Corel Draw
CorelDRAW is a vector graphics editor developed and marketed by Corel Corporation. It is also the name
of the Corel graphics suite, which includes the bitmap-image editor Corel Photo-Paint as well as other
graphics-related programs. It is used for creating the seals and tags of the company.
Best Image
Best Image to used to identify different types of colors and shades used in a design. It helps in identifying
the RGB shades for digital print and Pantone Shades for rotary print. A total of 30 different types of shades
can be identified in one go for printing
Adobe Illustrator
Adobe Illustrator is a vector graphics editor and design program developed and marketed by Adobe Inc. In
the CAD department, it is used for creating various designs to be printed through digital printing
129
8.10 Digital Printing
Digital Textile Printing (DTP) is the most modern technique of textile printing. By this technique, we can
print textile material without using any block or engraved roller or screen but with better prominence of
images. There is a lot of flexibility in working as we can easily change the colors if it does not match with
the sample within a few seconds.
The digital textile printing process flow is very short compared with the rotary screen printing. But printing
cost is very high compared to other textile printing methods. So this process is not yet accepted as an
option for mass production. This technique is generally used to produce samples for new designs and used
for designer’s costumes. But recent years garment and textile printing facilities preferring to have digital
textile printing in-house to reduce the sampling lead time.
Process flow:
Order received from the buyers or clients
Scanning of design and design development
Fabric preparation
Printer setting
Printing
Curing or Dye fixing
Final washing
Fig 8.17- Digital Printing
Design development: First the design or motif is converted into a soft file from the paper. Designs can be
developed in two ways. Firstly, by digitization process and secondly, pictures may be scanned directly if
no change is required. Then the created file is saved in printer-compatible format. Whatever changes is
needed in terms of color combinations, the brightness of the images is done in this stage.
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Fabric preparation: Fabric needs to be processed before going for printing. In this stage fabrics are
padded with chemicals, generally, sizing materials are used. It helps to remove the fabric crushes and
makes it stiffer for better feeding during printing. Padding is done on the flat bed with the help of a
scrapper.
Printing: With the help of the printer server images are printed on the substrate by using proper dye
classes and the printed fabric is then properly dried. First, the fabric is set properly without any looseness
and creases. Then the head of the printers is set according to the fabric thickness.
Dye Fixation: During the time of printing dyes only remain on the surface of the fabric, not fixed
permanently and if we use this material the dye will be washed out during its use. So, it is necessary to
fix the dyes for the good fastness property. For the fixation printed material is kept into the steam
chamber. Here dye molecules enter into the fibers from the fabric surface and they are fixed permanently.
This process is called the Fixation process.
Washing: After completion of the fixation the material is washed and dried properly.
Digital Printing Machines
Machine Name: MS ORANGE

Model: MS JP5 EVO
Speed: 25-45 linear m/hr
Adhesives: Permanent Adhesives and thermoplastic glue coating
Heads: 4 heads color: CMYK
Dryer: Electrical dryer
Aligned to its principle of ‘Same Print Result’ which implies that the quality of printing is constant
irrespective of whether it is an entry-level machine or a high-speed machine, MS Orange
Technologies would be displaying their new entry-level digital printerJP5 EVO at the GTE.
This machine can print with a maximum speed of 130 square meters per hour.
The MS-JP5 Evo is among the first MS Digital printing products using new two-color Kyocera print
heads that can print 40 to 60 linear yards per hour and is equipped with the famous Diva roller fabric
handling system, which allows printing of the widest range of fabrics usually possible under Class I
printers, at the speed of a Class II printer.
MS has used its extensive knowledge in screen printing and incorporated it into digital printer
technology.
The printing blanket with glue (“sticky belt”) holds the fabric in place while printing.
131
Fig 8.18- MS Orange
M/c name: EFI Reggiani VOGUE
16 printing heads
Maximum media width: 71 in (180cm)
Media weight: 30-350 gr/m2 (woven and knitted)
Fabric feed (entry)
Roll unwinder up to 15.75 in (400mm)
Fabric take-up (exit)
Fold
Roll winder up to 15.75 in (400mm)
Fold and roll winder up to 1575 in (400mm) (optional)
Dryer
One industrial chamber with a conveyor belt with 1 or 3 passages
Drop size from 4 to 72 pl
Up to 2400 DPI
Productivity
Production speed: Up to 3,498 ft2/h (325 m2/hr)

Typical speed: 2,153 ft2/h (200 m2/hr)
Standard: CMYK+OBRV
High-precision transportation belt
Ink management: in line, continuous degassing and filtering
Ink supply system with feeding by tanks max 12 liters
Self-cleaning
Adhesion method: thermoplastic, permanent, resin
Fig 8.19- EFI Reggiani Vogue
132
SOP for Digital Printing and steaming and ageing
Clean machine before the start

Check Rolls for color accumulation
Check Blanket Sticking
Ensure No crease
Clean all the rolls ( winding rolls)
Check the front side of the fabric
Check defects while unwinding
Keep separate trolley for dark and light matching
Dry rotary machine after thorough cleaning of the machine
Clean the ager before ageing
Pass white cloth to see for defects
First age light cloth, then go for the darker ones
Clean print washes before washing
Pass white cloth and check for any defects
Check the fabric and discharge to finish.
Quality Control in Digital Printing
Both the machines had sensors, the printing operation would only start once all the factors are correct.
Trial white fabrics are passed through the printing machine before the actual printing to check the
leakage and bleed.
Fig 8.20- Digital Printing
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8.11 AGEING
Ageing is the process in which the printed fabrics are exposed to warm and moist steam and the
atmosphere The main objective of ageing is to fix the mordants and colors used for printing to avoid
any type of bleeding. And also for the prints to last longer.
The procedure is carried out in a chamber filled with saturated steam at atmospheric pressure. The
necessary conditions are created in an ageing machine outfitted with controls that keep a specific
temperature on the fabric for a set period of time. An ager can hold and release the cloth with constant
feeding.
Machine Used - Texcom
Machine Specification -
Type of fabric - knitted/ woven

Machine Speed - 20- 30 m/ min
Time taken - 5 to 10 mins (depending on the length of fabric)
Max. Cloth Working Width - 185 cm
Roller width - 200 cm
Temp - 90 to 110 degree celsius
Steam Pressure - 4Kg/cm^2
134
8.11 WASHING
Washing is generally done to remove the impurities from the fabric making the fabric free from any kind
of foreign material. Washing is typically done in hot water (40-100°C) with a wetting agent and
detergent. The detergent dissolves the undissolved pigments and emulsifies the mineral oils. The
surfactants used may differ depending on the type of fiber. Anionic and nonionic surfactant mixtures are
commonly used. The effectiveness of a surfactant in strong alkaline conditions is an important
consideration when choosing one . Washing ends with a final rinsing step to remove the emulsified
impurities. Fabric washing can be done in rope or open-width form, and in both discontinuous and
continuous mode. Continuous mode in open-width is the most commonly used technique.
Machine - KCM Vertical drying and washing machine -
Machine Specification -
Max no. of Rollers - 24

Max Working Width - 360 cm
Water temperature - 40 degrees Celsius
Roller material - Stainless steel
135
8.11 STENTERING
Stenter is a machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine
is to bring the length and width to pre-determine dimensions and also for heat setting it is used for
applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to
stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width. It also increases the quality of the hand
feel of the fabric. It also increases the tensile strength of the fabric. It has skew and bow rolls to prevent
skewing and bowing into the fabric. The machine has different chambers with different or same
temperatures depending on the required settings. There are different chemicals used depending on
different fabrics depending on the finish required.
Working Mechanisms
The fabric is first passed through the roller and is dipped into the chemicals depending on the finish
required.
It then passes through the chambers.
In each of the chambers the width of the chains increases which helps to increase the width of the
required fabric.
Continuous drying is done in a stenter frame by convection. Blowers impinge hot air on both the
top and bottom of the fabric as the fabric passes through the chamber of the machine. Its frames are
equipped with an endless chain on each side to grip the fabric by both selvages as it enters the
chamber. The distance between the chains can be increased or decreased. In every chamber, there
are burners and blowers. The temperature of each chamber can be controlled individually.
Machines
Manfongs Montex 6500

Harish Deluxe Stenter DLXiN
Manfongs Montex 5000 8k Twinair
Fig 8.21- Stentering Machine Parts
136
MANFONGS MONTEX 6500
Selvage gumming unit with reservoir

TwinAir with inverters
Separately controlled airflow for top and bottom air
Short controlled fabric guidance for optimum feeding
Chambers with modular and space-saving design
Fabric transport drives with frequency-controlled 3-phase AC motors
Pin and combi chain with maintenance free width adjustment spindle
Hercules horizontal chain with long time lubrication
Machine speeds: 5 - 100 m/min (other speeds upon request)
Maximum chamber temperature: 220°C
Minimum working width: 60 cm
Working width range: 180 cm and 240 cm
Number of chambers available: 4 - 10
Double layer lint filter Secuclean
HARISH DELUXE STENTER
Double jacketed sealed chambers providing dual insulation

Seasoned cast iron lubricated rail provides friction-free movement of the chain
All pipeline are installed inside the chambers to cut out conduction losses
High-energy blower fans to displace larger volumes of air
Use of elongated oval Nozzle slits for higher air velocity
The lowest gap between top and bottom Nozzle faces prevents drop in enthalpy
Manfongs Montex 5000 8k Twinair
Selvage gumming unit with reservoir

TwinAir with inverters
Separately controlled airflow for top and bottom air
Short controlled fabric guidance for optimum feeding
Chambers with modular and space-saving design
Fabric transport drives with frequency-controlled 3-phase AC motors
Pin and combi chain with maintenance free width adjustment spindle
Hercules horizontal chain with long time lubrication
Machine speeds: 5 - 100 m/min (other speeds upon request)
Maximum chamber temperature: 220°C
Minimum working width: 60 cm
Working width range: 180 cm and 240 cm
Number of chambers available: 4 - 10
Double layer lint filter Secuclean
137
8.12 SANFORIZATION
Sanforization is a process of pre-shrinking fabric before it is made into a garment. When a fabric has
been treated with the sanforization process, it's referred to as 'sanforized' or 'pre-shrunk
Working Principle
The sanforizing process is based on the principle that when an elastic felt blanket is passed around a
metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface is
contracted. So the process is called the controlled compressive shrinkage process.
The process of sanforizing includes the stretching and manipulation of the fabric before it is washed.
During the sanforization process, the fabric is fed into a sanforizing machine where it is treated with
water or steam to promote shrinkage, then pressed against a heated rubber band to relax and re-
contract the fibers.
The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrink. A full-width sample is
wash-tested according to the test method. After the lengthwise and width-wise shrinkage has been
determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.
The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein moistened with either water or
steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber sleeve against another, heated, rotating cylinder. Thereby
the sleeve briefly gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterward relaxing to its normal thickness.
The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to
follow this brief compression and lateral expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk.
The greater the pressure applied to the rubber sleeve, the bigger the shrinking afterward
Sanforization Machine: Monforts Fongs - Monfortex 8000
Large Shrinkage Diameter

Improved Residual Shrinkage
Better Blanket Life
Automatic Grinding of Rubber Blanket
138
8.13 CALENDERING
Calendering is the process of smoothing and compressing a material (notably paper) during
production by passing a single continuous sheet through a number of pairs of heated rolls. The rolls
in combination is called calenders.
A total of 5 calender rolls were used. Two of them were made of steel. Two were made up of PVA
and one was made up of fibers
Working Principle
The basic principle of calendaring is to expose the cloth to the combined effect of moisture, heat, and
pressure until the fabric acquires a very smooth and light reflecting surface and gets a good luster.
The calendaring effect on the fabric is usually temporary and disappears after the first washing
Calendering Machines
Gayatri Calendering Machine
A total of 3 machines were used
Fig 8.22- Calendering Machine
139
8.14 LAB TESTING (FABRICS)
Gsm cutter
GSM stands for Gram per Square Meter and as the name suggests, is the identification of the weight of the
fabric. It is a simple instrument which is used to cut a fabric sample for calculating the gsm of the fabric.
The cutting diameter of the fabric sample is of 11.2 cm. After cutting the sample is then weighed and
calculated for GSM.
Elma tear strength
Test methods: ASTM-D1424-96

WP: ASTM D1424 & ISO 13937
WT: ASTM D1424 & ISO 13937
Autolab Dispenser (Datacolor)
Color is made in the some amount.

These colors are transferred to the machine flask.
Two types of colors are being made 1st for yarn and the other for fabric.
Tensile strength:
Test methods: ASTMD1424
Bow/Skew:
Test methods: ASTM 179
Seam slippage:
Test methods: ASTM-D 434
Shade checking cabinet
Verivide light cabin

shade of the fabric is checked here. based on the variation the fabric is dyed again until the required shade
came.
140
LAB TESTING (FABRICS)
Color fastness to rubbing
Test methods: AATCC 8 ISO 105- x12

Dry rub and wet rub both are taken.
Color fastness to Washing
Test methods: AATCC 261

Time: 45 min
Perspiration:

For Water, Alkali & Acid
Time: 4hr temp. 37 deg celsius
Fabric PH:

sample: 10 gm ph 5.5 to 6.0
DP rating for ETI Finish:
Color fastness to sublimation for PC:

Rating: 2-3
141
Fabric Dyeing:
M/C: Mathis padder

Fabric sample is dyed in this machine.
Stenter machine:
After sample of fabric is dyed then it is passed to the stenter machine for drying the fabric. temperature of
the m/c is around 120 deg celsius for cotton and 200 for polyester
Fig 8.23- Stenter Testing Machine
1 KG Dyeing machine:
Here 1kg of dye is made for the test fabric sample.
RBE Machine:
This is for hank dyeing.
RBE Fastness testing equipment:
This is used for checking the fastness of the fabric.
XW Machine
After yarn is dyed then it goes for the drying then it comes to the soaping process. there is beaker for this
apparatus where dyed yarn is put under the beaker and then soap solution is transferred. then it is set in the
machine with temperature of 90 degree celsius.
142
Beaker Dyeing Machine:
This is used for yarn dyeing.
Hot plate
20 gm of fabric is taken as a sample.

for ph value 5.5 to 6.0 is taken as an average.
the maximum temperature for this is 100 deg celsius.
Fig 8.24- Hot Plate
143
FABRIC INSPECTION
After fabric processing, the fabric is then. Here again, the fabric goes through a number of
processes like 4-point inspection, shade check, etc,
4 point inspection
According to the size of defects in the warp direction, points are allocated and final points are calculated
per 100 linear meters. The points are as follows -
0 to 3 inches - 1 point
3 to 6 inches - 2 points
Above 9 inches- 4 points
Holes of size less than 1 inch - 1 point
Holes of size more than 1 inch - 2 points
Now, these points are calculated per 100 linear meters or per 100 square yards. The formula is shown
below -
Common Defects
1. Puckering 11.Selvedge Cut

2. Broken Pick 12.Selvedge Float
3. Double Pick 13.Snarls
4. Slaugh Off 14.Thick Place
5. Round Pick 15.Weft Pashing
6. End Out 16.Wrong denting
7. Float 17.Wrong Drawing
8. Oil Stain 18.Weft Loops
9. Holes 19.Double End
10. Starting Mark 20.Reed Line
144
CHAPTER 9
FINISHED WAREHOUSE
145
9.1 FINISHED WAREHOUSE
Fabric Inspection (4 Point inspection)
Shade Checking Room
Punching Room
Inspection/ Cutting Table
Packaging
After fabric processing and inspection, the fabric is taken to the finished warehouse. Here again, the
fabric goes through a number of processes like 4-point inspection, shade check, etc,
4 point inspection
According to the size of defects in the warp direction, points are allocated and final points are calculated
per 100 linear meters. The points are as follows -
0 to 3 inches - 1 point
Above 9 inches- 4 points
Holes of size less than 1 inch - 1 point
Holes of size more than 1 inch - 2 points
Now, these points are calculated per 100 linear meters or per 100 square yards. The formula is shown
below -
146
Fig 9.1- Fabric Inspection
The accepted point for the final inspection is 25 points. The accepted fabrics are called sound fabrics and
the rejected ones are known as rejected fabrics.
9.1.1 SOUND FABRICS
The sound fabrics are of three types depending on the number of defects.
Customer Accepted Sound Quality (A-grade fabric) - The fabric in this category has very few defects
and is used for export purposes.
Good Fabric (B-grade fabric) - These are fabrics with a mild number of defects and can not be used for
export purposes and hence are sent into the domestic market.
Local Sound Quality (C-grade fabric) - They have a large number of defects but still can be sold to the
local markets at cheap rates of discounts.
147
9.1.2 REJECTED FABRICS
The rejected fabrics have a lot of defects and can not be used either for export, domestic or local markets.
These fabrics are generally sold to Baby garment industries or made into garments and embroidered. The
garments are then sold by the Premier Mills at cheap rates.
Shade Grouping Room
Once the 100 percent inspection of the fabric is done, the fabric then moves for shade checking. Here the
shade of the fabric is checked. For this, the start of 15 cm and the end of 15 cm of the fabric is tested. CSV
is also checked here.
Punching Room
In the punching room, the barcodes are generated which are then given to each fabric roll for fabric
management.
Inspection Table
After the approval, a final inspection is done visually and the fabrics are also cut depending on the
customer's requirements. There are separate lines for domestic and export orders. The company details are
also printed on the selvage of the fabric with the help of gold paste.
Packaging
The fabrics are then packed and sent to new cotton godown for storage. There are two types of packaging
- rolls
-square cartons
The longer length of fabric is packed in the form of rolls whereas the shorter ones are in cartons.
Fig 9.2- Packaged Rolls
148
CHAPTER 10
UTILITY DEPARTMENTS
149
10.1 Excess Bonded Office
Fig 10.1- Excess Bonded Office
EB stands for excess bonded room. The export dealings are done by the head office in Coimbatore. They
send the allocations to the plants where a particular product needs to be sent.
There are two ports near the plant- Chennai Port and Toothukudi Port. These two ports are used for the
export of foreign orders.
Based on where the product is to be sent and the quantity, the head office generates a plant invoice in ERP.
The software used for the ERP Data text.
The plant then prepares the IGST invoice.
The export orders are sent through a consignee. A GST of 5 percent is imposed on all the goods whether
for international or domestic orders.
For local orders, either the product is sent through a consignee or it is directly delivered to the customer.
For international export, the product is sent through a consignee, and till the ship port, it is the mill's
responsibility for the product.
The different products that are sold are -

Yarn
Greige Fabric
Finished Fabric
Waste Management Materials
150
10.2 IT DEPARTMENT
IT stands for Information Technology. IT is the creation, processing, storage, secure transmission, and
exchange of all types of electronic data. IT encompasses computer use, networking, storage, and other
physical devices.
In the whole plant, there are about 200 to 250 computers. All the computers are centralized through a server
and controlled in one room. This server connects all the computers.
Fig 10.2- IT
This server helps in controlling the access of the various computers and software used in the mill.
Each department - spinning, process and finishing has its own IT department which is headed by the central
IT Department.
There are different systems and software used for maintaining and tracking records and data. They are as
follows -
Spinning - Premier Ultimo

Weaving - Datalog and Classic Loom Data
Finsihing - ERP Softwares
EB4 - ERP Software
HR Department - Payroll Software
10.2.1 Premier Ultimo

PREMIER Ultimo is the spindle monitoring system for Ring
Frames. PREMIER Ultimo provides key information to
various levels of management through e-services like emails,
SMS, and Mobile application. The light indication at
individual Spindle and displays at Ringframe end assits
Supervisors, Maintenance persons and operators to focusing
on the areas which need quick attention. The Large TV
display helps users monitor the shed's overall performance
regarding production, efficiency, improvement, etc. Fig 10.3- Premier Ultimo
151
10.2.2 Classic Loom Data
Classic Loom Data is a leading manufacturer of Data Acquisition systems based in Coimbatore, which
enables to gather the of parameter information such as machine speed, Yarn breakage, and efficiency data
from the machine to the factory decision-making authorities.
Fig 10.4- Classic Loom Data
10.2.3 ERP Softwares
ERP stands for enterprise resource planning. Enterprise resource planning is the integrated management of
main business processes, often in real-time and mediated by software and technology.
The system collects data from different parts of the business. It puts the data into a central location where
employees who need it can access it. It dismantles the silos that many businesses suffer from and ensures that
adequate information is available to those who need it.
Suppose your company’s ERP system is almost fully automated. ERP does the data entry for you in the back-
end and also exchanges the information with other units that need it.
For instance, when a shipment order is initiated for the last item in stock, the inventory management modules
must record this information and inform relevant departments so that the inventory can be replenished.
10.2.4 Payroll Software
Payroll, as the name suggests, is associated with employee compensation and benefits. Payroll software, like
HR software, is a web-based payroll management solution for managing, maintaining and automating
payments to employees. It assists organizations in accurately calculating and processing the payroll of each
employee, eliminating the need for manual handling. Automating payroll functions, it eliminates the human
error.
152
10.3 PPC DEPARTMENT
PPC stands for Production Planning and Control. It is the department that plans, directs, and controls the
company's material supply and processing activities so that specified products are produced using
specified methods to meet an approved sales program while maximizing the use of available resources.
Department is responsible for the efficient working of various departments such as spinning, weaving,,
finishing, etc.
Careful planning required to coordinate production with sales, inventory levels, purchasing,
engineering, and financing operations becomes extremely important because of the high and
continuous rate of production.
As customer bases expand, so do style variations within product groups. Style differences also create
situations in which lines should be loaded in hours rather than days. Changing demands make it more
difficult for lines to maintain balance and meet deadlines.
PPC department uses Datatex ERP software.
Fig 10.5- Dattex
PPC is basically responsible for -
Job Scheduling - Job scheduling entails creating a time and action calendar for each order, from
receipt to shipment. The job schedule includes a list of tasks that must be completed for the styles. The
planner notes when to start each task and what the deadline is for that task.
Material Resource Planning - Material resource planning entails creating a material requirement
sheet based on a sample product.
Deciding the turnaround time - Working with the marketing team, the PPC determines the total
turnaround time while keeping tolerances in mind.
Follow-up and execution - The PPC department puts the plan into action. The PPC department
keeps a close eye on whether everything is going as planned. On a daily basis, chasing other
department heads to keep the plan on track. They
153
10.4 SAFETY DEPARTMENT
Safety Department consists of a safety officer who is responsible for maintaining the safety of
various operators, teaching them the safety rules, and conducting regular safety drills.
New operators and employees are first taught various risks and the safety protocols required for
that.
There are emergency controls such as Safety sensors, pulling the rope, MCB, etc. The
administrative controls consist of Signs, SOPs, and Training drills.
There is an occupational health center in case of minor injuries.
Different Types of Hazards:

Electrical
Mechanical
Chemical
Heat, noise, vibrations, etc
LPG
High Work
Slippery Floor
Fire
Biological Hazards
Different Safety Methods:

Fire Safety - Fire Extinguisher
Chemical Safety - MSDS
PPEs., Goggles, Earbuds
Mask, Boots, Gloves, Apron
NOTE- The safety department ensures that each operator gets the required PPE kits which is
needed for the safety of the operator for working in a particular department,
154
10.5 PDC DEPARTMENT
In general, the process of conceptualizing, designing, producing, introducing, and providing new products
and services to consumers (new product development) or improving upon the existing ones may be
referred to as product development (product improvements). This technique may be used to deliver a
novel user experience, attend to demand, offer answers to issues, expand the client base and market share,
as well as enhance sales and profit for the organization.
PDC receives the order from the marketing department which is discussed further. the department first
enters it into the ERP system of the organization and then proceeds with the product development
There are fives types of product development

Analytics- Creating a layout with the basic information and specification such as epi, ppi,
count, etc. This is just for ideation and not actual implementation. For it, samples are taken
from the market and then analyzed.
Lab Dips- Fabric Dyed sample creation. Here the PDC department creates the technical data
sheet which is then tallied with the stock available there. If the required fabric is there then it
is sent to PPC Quality Lab for dyeing. After which is it passed through a stenting machine. It
is then sent for testing such as color fastness, shade variation, etc. After which it is sent to the
PDC department which updates the customer via the marketing department. Which if
approved is sent for yardage making and so on.
Strike Offs- It is a sampling of printed designs on fabric depending upon the details given by
the marketing department. In this, either customers themselves give the CAD design of the
print of a sample or an inspiration. Which accordingly is then made into a technical sheet by
the PDC department. The designing part is executed by the CAD department of the digital
printing area. After then it is sampled in the digital printing machine i.e. MS J5. After then it is
given to the PDC department which takes approval from the marketing department after the
customer's approval.
Deskloom- It is for the sampling of yarn-dyed fabrics. For this, the yarns is made using a
winding machine from hanks after which it is sized and then warped in a low-scale machine.
The resultant warps are then fitted into the desk loom which takes 2 hours approx to finish the
same. Here all the weaves are possible except jacquard. For jacquard sampling. Tsudakoma
Airjet ZAX 9100 is used. The resultant fabric is then tested for various parameters which is
again sent for approval.
Yardages- After the sample (lab dips, strike offs or desk loom) gets approved, yardages are
made of 15-20 metres. In the PDC department itself, yarn-dyed warping happens and the
weaving takes place on the main weaving floor. After which it is sent for approval to the
marketing department. The same procedure is followed for lab dips and strike offs yardages
but all the processes happen on the main production floor.
155
PDC Samples
10.5.1 YARN DYED
Weave - Plain Weave - Dobby Weave - 2/2 Twill
Weave - Fancy Twill Weave - Jacquard Weave - Plain + Dobby
Weave - Plain + Satin Weave - Creep Weave - Creep
156
10.5.2 FABRIC DYED
Weave - Satin Strip Weave - Dobby Weave - 4/1 Satin
Weave - Missdent Weave - Matt Weave - Plain
10.5.3 YARN DYED CHAMBRAY
Weave - Plain Weave - Plain
157
10.5.4 PRINT
Weave - Satin Strip Weave - Plain Weave - Plain
Weave - 2/1 Twill Weave - Plain Weave - Matt
10.5.5 WHITE PRINT
Weave - Dobby Weave - Dobby Weave - Double Cloth
158
10.5.6 WEFT CHAMBRAY
Weave - Royal Oxford Weave - RIB Weave - Oxford
DIGITAL PRINT FABRIC DYED + PRINT
Weave - Plain Weave - Dobby

YARNDYED + PRINT
Weave - Normal
159
10.6 MARKETING DEPARTMENT
Simply put, the marketing division serves as the factory's public face. The marketing team will be in charge of
growing the company's business while the other departments will be in charge of producing the items.
The marketing division is in charge of marketing the product on the market, promoting the factory's
products, and bringing in more business for the sector.
Because they are tasked with creating a business for the sector, the marketing department is sometimes
known as the business development department.
This division displays the factory's capacity for creating innovative designs, quality standards, and quality
performance.
One of the crucial duties of this department is to keep the current consumers. But it all depends on giving
customers what they want by delivering high-quality goods on schedule.
Advertising, research, branding, strategies, and other operations are handled by the marketing
department.
Premier produces RMG, OTC and Export based products, Their mostly customers are in southern India,
basically 5 states:
Tamil Nadu
Telangana
Kerala
Andra Pradesh
Karnataka
Out of them, Tamil Nadu and Kerala are the major customers.
The marketing department in association with PDC and PPC makes new designs (basically yarn-dyed and
printed) and make presentations that are showcased to the customers. The customer could be garment
factories or directly brands themselves. If taken to the garment industry, they ask for yardages, if liked. They
construct garments out of them and then put a roadshow, where different buyers collect and eventually place
orders of the garments or design collection or ask for even modifications. Which on a contract basis is then
sent to the mill for bulk production (if no changes are asked). Else samples and yardages are made according
to the changes and sent for approval, eventually if passed through are produced in bulk.
There are dyed yarn and printed design-creating designers which develop new designs every second day. The
designs are then taken out in yardages of 20 metres and kept in Design Archive for future reference or
presentations etc.
International brands like GAP, Peter England and Next as well as domestic brands like Aditya Birla,
Celebrity, and Indian Terrain are associated with the mill.
USP
Voile and printed fabric exports to Sudan etc (Middle-east countries)
Dhotis and blouses for the southern states
MOQ
OTC (Over the counter)- 600m
Export- 2500m
Domestic- 1000m
160
10.7 BOILER
The textile business cannot function without boilers. Whether you're talking about textile engineering, bulk
fabric production, garment manufacturing, or other textile operations, a large portion of the manufacturing
process needs the use of steam or hot water provided by industrial boilers.
Pre-Treatment
Preparing the raw materials or fabric for dyeing and finishing by eliminating any dirt or other impurities that
could impair the fabric's quality during the process is the pre-treatment phase, which is perhaps the most
crucial in the processing of textiles. This procedure involves a number of phases, some of which necessitate
both steam and hot water that is clean and pure, necessitating an effective steam boiler.
Dyeing
To give fabrics their colour, the dyeing process requires adding pigments or dyes. Numerous types of textile
textiles, including cotton, rayon, jute, nylon, wool, silk, and even synthetic fibres, can be successfully dyed.
Although dyeing can potentially happen at any point of the textile processing chain, it is typically carried out
during the manufacture of textile fibres, yarn, or woven fabrics. Without steam boilers, it would not be
feasible to accomplish this crucial step in giving textiles their preferred appearance. A specific amount of heat
and moisture, delivered by steam, is needed to transfer the dye to the fabric. There are many variables when
dying textiles, depending on different colours, fibres, and other elements.
Printing
In contrast to dyeing, which produces a single uniform colour over an entire sheet or collection of textile
materials, printing adds designs or patterns to fabrics. Similar to dyeing, the printing process employs a
variety of techniques based on the type of fabric and the final output.The precise heat and moisture conditions
needed to print on a variety of cloth types are provided in part by boilers.
Finishing
There are a number of steps involved in the finishing stage of textile production, which can be complicated.
One of these procedures entails steaming the fabrics to remove creases. Another popular technique for
eliminating wrinkles from garments and other textiles is to use dry heat or a conventional iron.
Machines Requiring Steam

Sizing Machine- 7300 kg/day
Conditioning Machine- 5000 kg/day Wood usage- 45 tonnes/day
Dye Evaporation Plant- 17600 kg/day Water Usage- 12000 l/day
CRP- 20000 kg/day Steam Output- 6-8 TPH
CBR- 12000 kg/day Temperature of the boiler- 800 degree celsius
Pad Steamer- 16000 kg/day Temperature of the steam- 96 degree celsius
Monforts Zero Zero- 5000 kg/day Pressure of the steam- 6-8 bar
Ageing Machine- 15400 kg/day Power requirement- 3500 units/day
161
10.8 EFFLUENT TREATMENT AND RECOVERY PLANT (ETRP)
The procedures used by the textile industry

utilise a lot of water, which results in a lot 100 KLD
of wastewater that needs to be treated
before being released into the Collection Tank
environment. Different kinds of chemicals
are utilised in various sectors for dyeing
Equalization Tank
and other processes. They produce
hazardous compounds in their wastewater.
To reduce the amount of dirty wastewater, Aeration Tank
these companies are required to install
wastewater treatment facilities, known as
ETP
Clarifier
ETRP Plants for Textile Industry. In these
industries, wastewater treatment is crucial
and beneficial for the industries Chemical Treatment
themselves.
Clarifier
Cleans up wastewater by removing debris,
pollutants, polymers, etc.
For treatment, these frameworks use Quartz Filter
filtering and evaporation methods.
Modern wastewater treatment is another Ultra Filtration (UF)
name for this process.
It includes many therapy phases that
include physical, chemical, and biological RO-I
treatment.
The amount of effluent produced will RO-II
RO
determine where it is installed.

This system's primary goal is to
completely eliminate a big amount of RO-III
effluent by using its own method to
separate the water and salt. RO-IV
Through this procedure, it eliminates
COB/BOD and satisfies the requirement
EVAPORATION SYS.
for clean water. Falling Film Evaporation
The processed water is again sent to Forced Circulation

various departments for usage thus cutting
down the major need for water every day.
Agitated Thin Filter Dryer
100 KLD is required out of which 97% is
recycled leading to 0% liquid waste.
Fig. 10.6- ETRP Flow Process
162
10.9 FILTER ROOM-BLOWROOM
After the waste collection and processing in the boiler, it is then directly taken into the filter toom.
The Filter rooms help in waste management and sustainability. The wastes are processed and are again reused
for making low-quality fabric.
The waste generated from the filter machines is stored in Cotton Godown 2.
The machines are as follows -

Perfect Buffering Machine
Bailing Press
Comber VXL Filter Room
Blow room VXL Filter Room Compactor
Cutter Ply
Spinpact
Now Compact
Fig. 10.7- Filter-Room
10.10 COTTON GODOWN 02

Cotton Godown 2 is the area that stores the waste of the filter room from the blow room. These wastes are
then sold to various places like Tirupur at cheap rates.
The different wastes are as follows -

GutterFlux
Cotton Fard Waste
Seed Waste
Fan Waste
LikerinDroppings
Flat Stripes Carding Waste
Comber Noils
Damage Spring Cans
These are collected and sold to various places which
are decided by the head office in Coimbatore.
Fig. 10.8- Cotton Godown 02
163
CHAPTER 11
COST ANALYSIS AND COMPARISON
165
167
Table 10.1- Rate Card of Fibre Sourcing
S No. Type Rate (Rs./kg)
1. T DCH-32 Cotton 328.4
2. MP DCH 282.6
3. TN TVKM 291.3
4. Australian Cotton -
5. Polyester 112
166
CHAPTER 12
MACHINE LIST
167
Table 10.2- Machine List of Spinning Unit
168
169
Table 10.3- Machine List of Looms
Table 10.4- Machine List of Processing Unit
170
CHAPTER 13
CONCLUSION
In this Period of internship, we attempted to observe and understand major departments –

spinning, weaving, processing and other utility departments. This exercise bridged the gap
between the theoretical aspects that we studied on our end and the practical experience. Overall, it
was observed that the factory is equipped with a large number of machinery and technology. The
process awareness was high among employees and they were being followed methodically to a
large extent. The company has shown tremendous growth over the years and has significant
expansion plans further.
171
OUR EXPERIENCE
The textile internship at Premier Mills Private Limited was full of ample opportunities. Different
departments - Spinning, Weaving, Processing, and the utility departments such as ETRP, boiler,
Marketing, PPC, PDC, learning Cell, Excess Bonded Office, etc, were covered throughout the
tenure of 14 days.
The mill sourced various varieties of cotton from different parts of India. Even the
contamination less cotton was sourced from Australia. Besides cotton, polyester was also
sourced in small quantities.
The experience in the spinning department was quite unique. The depart was equipped with
various advanced machines. There were proper aisle spacing and enough operators for each
machine. The Safety department made sure each operator was equipped with different PPE kits
used in the respective departments they work in.
The weaving department was equipped with various types of looms - Shuttle, Rapier, Airjet, and
Projectile Loom. A total of 241 machines were there with each machine working 24*7 in three
shifts
The processing department was the largest which covered printing, dyeing, and different types of
treatments available for different finishes.
The overall experience was nice. The managers, workers, and operators were quite keen to help
irrespective of the language barrier. . The process awareness was high among employees and
they were being followed methodically to a large extent. The company has shown tremendous
growth over the years and has significant expansion plans further.
172
REFERENCES
Corbman, Bernard P.,(1983). Textiles Fiber to Fabric, Sixth Edition. (10-07-2022)

Price, Arthur, Cohen, Allen C., (1994). Fabric Science, Sixth Edition. (10-07-2022)
Dr. Talukdar, M. K., et al.(1998). Weaving: Machines, Mechanism and Management, 2nd
Edition. (26-07-2022)
Palmer, John W., (1996). Textile Processing and Finishing Aids. Recent Advances. (5-08-
2022)
Goswami, B.C., et al., (MARCH 1995). Textile Yarns: Technology, Structure and
Applications. (5-08-2022)
Eberle, Hannelore, et al., (1995). Clothing Technology: Europa Lehrmittel. (5-08-2022)
173

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Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/625)

Under the Guidance of

Department of Fashion Technology

Chandan Kumar (BFT/20/625)

Date: 08-09-2022 Department of Fashion Technology

1. Introduction & Objectives 25

7.1 Plant Layout - Weaving

8.1 Plant Layout - Processing

11. Cost Comparision 165

2 2.1 Premier Inauguaration Board 20

2 2.2 Premier Brand Vision 21

2 2.3 Premier Product Range 21

2 2.4 5-S followed by Premier Pvt. Ltd. 22

3 3.1 Cotton Feeding Inlet 30

4 4.1 Cotton Godown 34

5 5.1 Hand Mixing 38

6 6.1 Plant Layout of Spinning Unit 44

6 6.2 Process Flow of Spinning 45

6 6.4 Blowroom Process Flow Chart 47

6 6.5 70s Dhotis fabric 48

6 6.6 70s Blouse Fabric 48

6 6.7 40s suiting fabric 48

6 6.8 60s Kurta Fabric 48

6 6.9 60s Shirt Fabric 48

6 6.10 Hand Plucking and Mixing 49

6 6.11 Blendomat Trutzschler 50

6 6..12 Laskshmi Vario Cleaner 52

6 6.13 Premier Xeni F 53

6 6.14 Trutzschler Condenser 54

6 6.16 Premier I Qube 56

6 6.17 Premier Xeni 2 56

6 6.18 Step Cleaner 57

6 6.19 Premier UniQ 58

6 6.21 Trutzschler TC 5 Carding Machine 60

6 6.22 Delivery and feeding Can 62

6 6.24 Lakshmi LMW LH 15 65

6 6.25 Trutzschler TCO 12 66

6 6.27 Lakshmi LFi 400A 69

6 6.28 Plant Layout Spinning Unit 2 70

6 6.29 Ring Frame 71

6 6.30 Working of Ring Frame 71

6 6.31 Cop Winding 72

6 6.32 Drafting Arrangement 73

6 6.33 Drafting Arrangement of Compact Yarns 74

6 6.34 Parts of Ring Frame 75

6 6.35 LED Indicator 76

6 6.36 Ring and C Traveller 76

6 6.40 Rollers with Cot 76

6 6.41 Laper Hook 76

6 6.42 Ring Tubes 76

6 6.44 Autoconer Machine 78

6 6.45 Muratec Process Autoconer II 79

6 6.46 Manual Feeding 80

6 6.47 Rewinding Units 81

6 6.48 Doffer Head 82

6 6.49 Manual Repair 83

6 6.50 Capacitor Plate Effect 84

6 6.51 Doubling and Twisting 85

6 6.52 RITE Singeing Machine 86

6 6.53 Singed Cone 87

6 6.54 Yarn Knotting Equipment 87