Dyeing Basics – Dyeing Process & Machines (Part- 1) 

Dyeing Process

Dyeing
Process

Batch/Dis- Semi-
Continuous
Continuous Continuous

The Basic Concept:

Before we get into the technical side of it let’s apply our common concepts first. We watch various TV
commercials everyday which claim that their products are produced without the use of hand. What they
mean is from start to finish no manual material handling is needed i.e. they feed the Raw Materials as
input & receive the final product as output without any intervention. This is called Continuous Process &
Batch/Dis-continuous project is exactly it’s opposite. In semi-continuous process both concept is
implemented.

The above mentioned concept can also be applied to Dyeing processes as well. If we consider fibres as in
input & garments as output than we would have to agree that the over-all process is Batch process.

Batch/Dis-continuous:

 Here a certain/known amount of material/fabric is brought under repeated contact with dye
liquor & then transported to carry out the subsequent processes.
 This type of machines allow processing in rope form (e.g. winches, jets, etc.) or in open width
form (e.g. jigger)
 For knit dyeing this process is used almost everywhere in our country

Semi-continuous:

 Here dye solution is applied by padding & then it’s batched/stored in certain conditions for
fixation.
 The subsequent processes (washing, drying, etc) are done afterwards
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Dyeing Basics – Dyeing Process & Machines (Part- 1) 

Continuous:

 This type of process is aimed at higher production.

 Here dry undyed fabric enters at one end & dry coloured fabric is leaves at the other end. This is
why it’s also called dry-to-dry process.
 All the units for example padding, steaming, washing, drying etc. are just set one after another
A typical diagram is shown below:

Fig: Continuous Dyeing/Dry-to-Dry Process

Dyeing Machines

Fig: Classification of Dyeing Machines According to Their Working Process

Principles of Batch/Discontinuous Machines:

In the following chart the principles, form in which they are fed into the different Batch machines
are given -
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Dyeing Basics – Dyeing Process & Machines (Part- 1) 

Batch
Process

Moving Material & Moving Material Stationar Material

Stationary Liquor & Moving Liquor & Moving Liquor

Rope Open Width Rope Open Width Open Width

Jigger with
Winch Jigger Jet Liquor Beam Dyeing
Circulation Yarn Machine

Q. Why Rope form is used/what are the advantages of rope form processing?

Ans:
 It’s the easiest method of processing.
 Handling & Storage is easy.
 Ease of transportation as it can be transported to virtually any distance and any direction by
passing it through circular guides.
 The fabric doesn’t undergo much tension widthwise which is a very significant factor as
winch machine is extensively used for knits which has low dimensional stability.

Now, I will try to discuss about some batch dyeing machines very shortly as it would be impossible to
write about them in details in a single article.
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Dyeing Basics – Dyeing Process & Machines (Part- 1) 

Winch/Beck Dyeing Machine

Q. Why it’s called winch?

Ans: A horizontal rotor/reel is used to circulate the fabric endlessly. This rotor/reel is known as winch.
The winch maybe elliptical or circular in cross-section. The elliptical winches exerts minimum tension but
high mechanical action by giving long & short folds when the fabric rotates.

Fig: Winch Dyeing Machine Fig: Schematic Diagram of Winch Dyeing Machine

 We can learn from the chart that the fabric moves in Rope Form through the dye liquor
(stationary) repeatedly.
 It’s used for all processes including scouring, bleaching, dyeing, washing-off & softening.
 The liquor ratio is typically about 20:1 but for small winches it may be as high as 1:40.
 The most modern machines have the winch drive which can spped upto 500 m/min depending
on the fabric properties.
 The nominal chamber capacities are 100Kg, 200Kg & 250Kg.
 Operating temperature can be extended upto 140℃ (for closed systems).
 A number (1-40) of endless ropes or loops of fabrics of equal length (about 50-100m) are loaded
with much of their length immersed in folded form inside the dyebath.
 The rate of dyeing is controlled by the number of fabric cycles in a given time.

Advantages:
 Simple construction & therefore economical to purchase and operate.
 Suitable for all types of fabric specially lightweights.
 It imposes much less tension than Jigger so it’s suitable for delicate fabrics.
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Dyeing Basics – Dyeing Process & Machines (Part- 1) 

 Scouring efficiency is high due to greater mechanical action caused by constant reformation of
lengthways folds.
 Tubular knitted fabrics are scoured & dyed extensive because of the low tension.
 Crimps are developed due to greater mechanical action & low tension.
 The dyed fabric is thicker with fuller handle, more fabric cover & better crease recovery.

Disadvantages:

 The temperature varies in different parts. The heating unit is present only in one compartment
so when the fabric leaves that compartment it cools & then re-enters. So, for temperature
sensitive dyes it’s a major drawback.
 Excessive movement may lead to undesirable felting in Wool fabrics.
 The fabric is irregularly piled & uneven dyeing may occur unless suitable dyes & levelling agents
are used.
 Due to high liquor ratio, dye exhaustion is poor & considerable amount of dye remains in the
bath which hampers the economy.
 Formation of running creases during dyeing may not be removable even after stentering.
 Elongation & deformation may occur due to longitudinal tension.
 Longer rope may cause entanglement at the bottom.

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