Cosmaceuticals

UNIT 8 COSMACEUTICALS
Structure
8.1 Introduction
Objectives
8.2 Cosmetics and its History
8.3 Classification of Cosmetics
8.4 Skin
The Cosmetics for the Skin
Skin Colourants
8.5 Cosmetics for Hairs
8.6 Nail Cosmetics
8.7 Tooth and Dental Products
8.8 Summary
8.9 Key Words
8.10 Terminal Questions
8.11 Answers
Suggested Readings
Appendix A

8.1 INTRODUCTION
The marketing of pharmaceutical products includes marketing of all the
cosmetics known as cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics as defined in the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act, means articles meant to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part
thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance. All the cosmetics are covered as over the counter products. Unlike
the medicines, these cosmetics are marketed through the retail chemist shops as
well as through the general stores. Hence the cosmetics are distributed through
the pharmaceutical distribution channel as well as the FMCG distribution
channels. The information about the cosmetics can be advertised through the
mass media and differs in this respect from the advertising of drug
preparations.
Objectives
After studying this unit you should be able to:
• differentiate between the drugs and cosmetics;
• classify the cosmetics; and
• asses the importance of cosmetics in body care.

8.2 COSMETICS AND ITS HISTORY

The word ‘cosmetics’ arises from a Greek word ‘kosmeticos’ which means to
adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or improvement of 157
Pharmaceutics appearance is known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn one’s own body and look
beautiful has been an urge in the human race since the tribal days. Earlier both
males and females were equal competitors for improvement of appearance.
Males decorated themselves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while
women did so by wearing any coloured stones or flowers round their neck and
the wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and bodies
and still later coloured ointments. Bangles and necklaces made of backed earth
also became common in the early civilization as well as shells of various kinds
obtained from nature. In digging up ancient Egyptian tombs much light has
fallen on the ancient practices of beautification. Pharaohian tombs have
revealed that coloured earths were like malachite green. The copper ore was
used as eye shadows. Lamp black was common too for eyes. For dyeing of
hairs red was also practiced. The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed
with materials like myrrh to head so that when they danced the perfumed
ointment would flow down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. The
history also records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her
face and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile Caesar
and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare too stressed the
role of cosmetic wrote, “Had Cleopatara’s nose been longer, the shape of the
world would have been different.” The women of the world fee inspired when
they have a mental feeling that they are looking good. Hence, the practice of
adornment or improvement of appearance continued unabated across the
countries. In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be
essential commodities of life. The role of cosmetics in everyday life met
greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and medical
scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psychological effect
on users and especially on the skin. They keep the skin supple delaying the
onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin infections and prevention of
sunburns.

In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased exponentially not
only among the females but also the male population. Hair dyes, powders,
creams are as popular with males as with females. Most countries have now
laws to control, manufacture, labeling, sale etc. of cosmetics in such a way that
use of cosmetics harmful to health is prevented. In India the Drugs Act 1940,
has been renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act in 1962 and contains some
sections to exercise control over the manufacture, sale and use of cosmetics.

The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to be applied
to external parts of the body. In other words they may be applied to skin, hair
and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring, softening, cleansing,
nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and
protection. All cosmetics are formulated as solids, semi-solids or liquids. Like
the drugs, the cosmetics are also manufactured based on certain standard
formula. The cosmetics may be classified into four main groups namely:

1) Cosmetics for Skin

158 2) Cosmetics for Hair
3) Cosmetics for Nails Cosmaceuticals
4) Cosmetics for Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.)

8.3 CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS

The cosmetics may be broadly classified into 4 main groups namely:

i) Cosmetics for Skin

ii) Cosmetics for Hair
iii) Cosmetics for Nails
iv) Cosmetics for Hygiene

The cosmetics are formulated as similar as pharmaceutical dosage forms like

solids, semi-solids or liquids or aerosol sprays. These are broadly classified in
the following manner.

Classification of Cosmetics

Skin Hair Nail Hygienic

Laquers
Powder Creams Lotion Colourants Dental preparations
Laquer
compacts removers Tooth
Skin lotions, powders
astringent lotion Nail
Polish Pastes
Vanishing creams, Lipsticks, dentifices
Cuticle
Cold creams, All Rouges
removers
purpose creams Mouth
washes and
gargles

Face powder and compacts,

body powders, prickly heat
powder, face pack

Shaving prep Shampoos, Hair dyes, Hair conditioner,

Hair Lotion Dandruff Lotion Hair gel
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Pharmaceutics SAQ 1
Broadly classify the cosmetics used for beautification.

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8.4 SKIN

The majority of the cosmetics are applied to the skin. Skin is the external cover
of the body and the beauty of the skin contributes to the over all beauty of the
body. Before studying about the cosmetics for skin let us have a brief
discussion and basic knowledge of the skin and its function and the anatomy of
the skin which is very much important to design cosmetics for skin. Skin is the
outermost and the heaviest single organ of the body. It protects the internal
organs as well as limits the passage of substances into and out of the body. It
has many other important roles like protecting the body, from external stimuli
like, chemical, heat, light, cold radiation etc. It regulates body temperature and
takes part in many biochemical functions. The pH of the skin varies from 4.0 to
5.6. The skin secretions like sweat and fatty acids influence the pH of the body.
This acidic pH restricts the growth of pathogens on body surface. The skin has
three mutually interdependent tissues i.e. stratified, vascular, cellular epidermis
and underlaying dermis of connective tissue.

(Diagram of skin)
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A. Epidermis: Epidermis consists of five layers and has a thickness of 0.006 Cosmaceuticals
to 0.8 mm. The different layers have different functions. (Fig.8.2)

i) Stratum corneum: It is the superficial layer of the epidermis. This

horny layer of cells provides protection to the underlaying delicate
cells. This horny layers of the cells are found in highly organized
manner about 10 to 15 layers of much flattened, keratinized dead cells.
At normal relative humidity a normal stratum corneum can absorb
moisture upto 15-20% of its dry weight. When this layer dries out it
becomes brittle.

ii) Stratum lucidum: It is present in the palm and foot and anatomically
distinct. It forms a thin translucent layer. The cells are non-nucleated.
iii) Stratum granulosum: It is present above Keratinocytes. They produce
the basic staining particles called keratinohyaline granules and it is
region of intense biochemical activity many morphological changes
takes place in this layer.
iv) Stratum spinosum: These cells are produced by morphological and
histochemical alteration of the cells of the basal layer as they move
upward. These are polygonal cells and called prickle cells as they are
interconnected by fine prickles. These links are responsible for integrity
of the epidermis.
v) Stratum germinativum: These cells are non nucleated, columnar. It
constantly renews the epidermis. These are connected by cytoplasmic
intercellular bridges. The epidermis is constantly renewed by the
mitosis of the basal cells. The basal cells include melanocytes which
produce and distribute melanin granules to the keratinocytes which is
required for pigmentation. The dermoepidermal junction is present
below the basal cell layer which is an anatomical functional unit.The
junction works as three functions of dermal-epidermal adherence,
mechanical support to the epidermis, control of the passage of cells and
large molecules across the junction.

Fig.8.2: Diagram of epidermis

B. Dermis: It is below the epidermis and above the subcutaneous tissue and
consists of the dense network of structural protein fibers i.e. collagen,
reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semigel matrix of
mucopolysaccaride. The thickness is 0.2 to 0.3cm.The gel structure
provides the elastic nature of the skin. The fibrous tissue opens up below
the dermis and merges with the fat containing subcutaneous tissue. 161
Pharmaceutics C. Subcutaneous Tissue: It is a fat rich areolar tissue, attaching the dermis to
the underlaying structures. This layer is quite elastic and large arteries and
veins are present in the superficial region.

D. Skin Appendages: The skin appendages are referred to the collective

sweat gland, eccrine and apocrine glands. It also contains sweat gland
sebaceous glands, with hair follicles. Hair follicles are distributed all over
the body exceptsoles, palm, red portions of the lips and selected portions of
sex organs.

SAQ 2
What is responsible for the elastic nature of the skin?

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8.4.1 The Cosmetics for the Skin

The different types of cosmetics used for skin care are face powder, compact
face powder, body powder, skin colourants like lipsticks, rouge and various
body creams like moisturiors, vanishing cream, sun cream, cold cream,
cleansing cream, massage cream etc.
i) Face powders: Though these are called face powder but it is applied to
other parts of the body. Powders and compacts are one of the important
categories of skin care products. The body powders are also known as
dusting powder or talcum powder. Certain medicated powders are mixed
with active medicaments to prevent microbial growth on skin. Deodorant
powders and foot powders used for specific purposes. Face powders are
widely used for face and body care. These are very fine particles, shining
having absorbent property, adhere to skin and spreads over a large skin
surface area. These powders contain talc, colouring agents, perfumes etc. to
make the skin pleasant to look and touch and give smooth feeling. The
compact face powders are as same as face powders but made compact by
using a binding agent to form a loose cake. The powders used on body
surface should have good covering power and hide skin blemishes. It
should have good adherence, adsorbing property and keeps shining to give
an elegant look.

Preparation: The preparation is very simple mixing of the powders and

162 the perfumes is adsorbed to the calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate.
 Few compositions of face powder is given in the appendix and can be Cosmaceuticals
referred for better understanding.

SAQ 3

Write the use of the face powders.

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8.4.2 Skin Colourants

These are applied to skin on the face and lips and are called rouge and lipsticks.
Lipstick is used to impart an attractive colour and glossy and moist appearance
to the lips. These are basically dispersions of colouring matter in a base
consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats and wax suitably perfumed and
blended. The rouge is defined as the cosmetic preparation used to give a
desired colour to the cheeks. The usual colours are pale pink, blue, red, reddish
brown etc. The colours or tint is achieved by adding iron oxides, organic
pigments, water soluble organic colours etc. The rouge usually contains zinc
state, rice starch, talk, pigments, and perfume, however different other
combinations of materials like zink oxide, lanolin, Magnesium carbonate, talc,
pigments and perfume are added as per the requirements. The rouge is
available in form of powders and creams. Few compositions of lipsticks and
rouge are also given in the appendix for an idea about the lipsticks and rouge.

Apart from the powders and colourants skin creams are also used to beautify
and care of the skin. The major classifications of the creams are vanishing
cream, cold cream and all purpose cream. The skin care creams can also be
classified based on their functions:

i) Cleansing creams
ii) Foundation and vanishing creams
iii) Massage creams or vitamin creams
iv) Body creams and all purpose general
v) Sunscreen creams

i) Cleansing creams

These are applied to remove facial make up, surface grime, soil, surface oil
and water mainly from the face and throat. The cleansing cream removes
the above materials and does not makes the skin dry like soap. Unlike soap 163
Pharmaceutics the cleansing cream readily removes the chemical substances adhering to
the skin but keeping the skin naturally moisturized. The differ ingredients
of a cleansing cream are mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, acetoglyceride,
petroleum jelly, bees wax, borax, water, preservatives and perfumes as
required.

ii) Vanishing cream

These are the creams which disappear when applied and rubbed into the
skin. They provide emollient and protective action. The cream leaves a dry
and tacky residual film after application. The cream contains glycerine
which improves the consistency and good spreadability. The materials like
liquid paraffin, cocoa butter, almond oil are included to give pearliness to
skin. The ingredients of vanishing cream contains materials like searic acid,
cetyl alcohol, sorbitol syrup, propylene glycol, triehanolamine, glycerine,
water, preservatives and perfume as required. Each ingredient has its
cosmetic role to keep the skin natural.

iii) Massage creams

These creams are applied to preservation of normal skin and to supplement

food and vitamin like A,D,E including linoleic acid, aracchidonic acid etc.
Mineral oil forms the bulk of the cream. This type of cream is normally
applied during night, the time assigned to skin feeding. Hence these are
called night cream. It has emollient action and prevents water loss and
supplements water loss by presence of humactant materials in the formula.
When vitamins are added to the formula these are called vitamin creams.
The different materials included in this cream are mineral oil, petroleum
jelly, white bees wax, paraffin wax, lanolin, borax, water, perfume,
preservatives and antioxidants. This cream is easy to apply but not to be
rubbed. The stresses due to environmental cause changes or damage to the
skin. These creams help to maintain the normal skin by reversals of the
damage. These are sticky or greasy due to presence of oil or wax

iv) Body and all purpose creams

These are the creams used for softness of the skin and keep it conditioned.
Materials like oil-water creams, glycerine, sorbitol, poleneglycol are used.
Material like agar, acacia, karagene also used in these creams. Mineral oil,
waxes, lanolin used as film formers and emollient in form of cream, jelly or
non aqueous type. It replaces the water loss and provides an oily film to
protect the skin. It keeps the skin smooth and soft but not greasy. The
materials used for body creams are isopropylmyristate, mineraloil,
stearicacid, emulsifyingwax, lanolin, glycerine, triethanolamine, water,
perfume and preservatives. These creams are also available as jellies and
the formula contains tragacanth, boric acid, glycerine, alcohol, water
perfume and preservatives.

Apart from the body creams there are few creams available which can be
used for all purpose or called sports cream. These are oily non-greasy and
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 spreads easily. When applied in excess it acts as skin food or nourishing Cosmaceuticals
cream. The composition of these creams is such that it can act as
foundation cream, cleansing cream and also have emollient effect. The
materials used are wool alcohol, microcrystalline wax, mineral oil,
petroleum jelly, glycerine, magnesium sulphate, water, perfume, methyl
and propyl benzoate, butylated hydroxyl anisole.

v) Sunscreen preparations

The sun rays reaching the earth contain three types of rays visible, ultra
violet and infra red rays. Out of these rays the UV rays having a wave
length of 280 to 400 nm are harmful to the human skin. To protect against
these harmful rays the sun screen preparations are used. These preparations
protect the skin from the deleterious affect of UV rays of the sun light. In
skin the melanin content protects the skin from UV radiation. The sun
screen preparations absorb the light and scatter the light. It gives a
protective layer that prevents the UV rays to reach the skin either by
absorbing or by reflecting. There are materials which shows sun screen
effect are para aminobenzoic acid, its derivatives and glyceryl esters,
salicylates, cinnamic acid derivatives, tannic acid derivatives, few other
materials used are titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, kaolin, Calcium
carbonate.

Sunscreen preparations are also available in form of lotion containing

sunscreen agent, dihydroxyacetone, propylene glycol, alcohol, water,
perfume, methyl parahydroxy benzoate. The emulsion type contains
mineral oil, tween, dihydroxy acetone, propylene glycol, water, perfume
and preservatives. The gel type contains carboxy vinyl polymer, propylene
glycol, triethnolamine, filtrosol-B, water, perfume and preservatives.

SAQ 4

Write the use and content of massage cream.

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8.5 COSMETICS FOR HAIRS

Before going to cosmetics for hairs, let us have a brief discussion on hair. Hair
is a vital part of the body and an added attraction on head. They are known as
epidermal derivatives as they originate from the epidermis during 165
Pharmaceutics embryological development. It is an important component for the overall
appeal of the appearance and personality. Good and healthy hair on the head is
an attraction and beauty of the body.

However, hair has to be kept clean and maintained for good health. It requires
to clean the hair regularly with soap or shampoos, followed by conditioning
agent and hair lotion preparation. For beautification of the hair we use
shampoos, hair oils, hair waving devices or clips, hair tonics, hair removers,
various dyes and bleaching preparations.

The Functions of Hair

Hair protects the scalp from ultra violet light, cushion round the scalp and
insulates the skull. It is on the eye brows to protect the eye from insects or
foreign particle. It guards the nostril and ear canal from dust. It helps in
evaporation of perspiration. It is also a part of sensory function. The hairs
present on the head are of importance from cosmetics point of view.

Hair preparations

a) Shampoos

It is hair cleaning and glossing and conditioning agent. It mainly contains

anionic surfactants. These are basically water based products containing
surfactants and some additional substance. The water based products has
the advantage of easy removal. The shampoos have the side effect that the
hair gets dried; hence proper conditioning is required by adding a
conditioning agent. The shampoo should have the quality of cleaning the
dust, soil and fatty substances from the hair. It should give a pleasant
fragrance to the hair .The material should be non toxic to body. The
composition of the shampoo are anionic surfactants, di or monoalkyl
sulphosuccinates for conditioning, the other agents used are germisides,
antidandruff agents, perfumes, colours, preservatives, thickening agents etc.
The different types of shampoos are powder shampoo, clear liquids, lotion,
gel type shampoo, oil shampoo and medicated shampoo. These different
types of shampoos are made by changing the composition of the shampoo.
However the basic material anionic surfactant remains as one ingredient. In
medicated shampoo like antidandruff shampoo the anti fungal like
miconazole is added to kill the fungus. Few shampoo formulas are given in
the appendix for an idea about different shampoos.

SAQ 5

Write the materials used to prepare a shampoo. What are the different types of
shampoos?

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b) Hair colourants

A good hair on the head improves the over all beauty or personality of a
person. However when the hair turns grey it reflects the ageing of a person
and reduces the overall beauty of a person. Natural colour hairs improve
the personality. However the hair turns grey after certain age and to
maintain the colour hair colourants are necessary. Hair colours are used to
hide the grey hairs. Some times colours are used to change the hair colour
or improve the existing colour. A good hair dye or colour should have few
characteristic like nontoxic, stable, easy to apply and should give a natural
gloss. There are temporary colourants, semipermanent colorants, permanent
colorants and bleaches. Various shades like blue, pink, light golden colour
of hair can be produced by using different hair dyes. There are vegetable
colorants like henna ringe which contains dried powdered leaves of
lawsonia alba, lawsonia spinosa, lawsonia inemis. These colours are
available in different forms as powders, henna ringe etc. Few examples are
given below for an idea about hair colours:

c) Hair grooming aids

As hair is the important component of overall appearance of a person, the

hair grooming is very important to improve the personality. These are the
agents which give extra attraction to the hairs. These products include hair
oils, hair creams, hair setting lotions, hair sprays etc. The hair grooming
agents are very similar to the emollients preparations and produce natural
gloss and fix it in position. The hair oil contains mineral oil, isopropyl
myristate, perfume and preservatives. The hair lotion contains tragacanth,
alcohol, glycerine, water, perfume, colour and preservatives. The hair
creams contains bees wax, mineral oil, paraffin wax, lime water, perfume
and preservatives. The hair sprays contain film formers, plasticizers solvent
and perfume. The hair fixers or brilliantine contains petroleum jelly,
paraffin wax, perfume and preservatives.

d) Shaving preparations

Shaving preparations are purely men’s cosmetics. These preparations used

for shaving of a hair to soften the beard and produces foam to facilitate the
shaving by razor. Shaving creams or soap is used before the shaving to
moisten the hair and prevents skidding of razor due to oily materials on hair
and provides a good grip to the razor to cut the hair from the root. These
preparations give rich lather, helps to keep the hair erect and lubricating
effect permits smooth gliding of the razor over the skin without any injury
to it. These preparations are available in form of cream. Soap and aerosol
sprays. The creams contain searic acid, coconut oil, caustic potash, caustic
167
Pharmaceutics soda, watersod. Dioxystearate, sorbitol, glycerol, perfume andpreservatives.
The soap contains stearic acid, coconut oil, palmkernel oil, potassium
hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, glycerine, water, perfume and preservatives.
The aerosols contain a propellant and the foaming agents, perfume and
preservatives.

e) After shave lotion

After the shaving the after shave lotion is used to prevent sepsis and gives a
feel of freshness called after shave. These preparations give a pleasant cool
feeling after the shave. It contains sprit, glycerine, cetrimide, water,
perfume. In few cases these are also applied in form of a cream. The
contents are same kept in a creamy base. The lotions are clear solutions
containing 25-50% alcohol and additionally contain antiseptics,
haemostyptic substances. One example of after shave is given in the
appendix for an understanding.

8.6 NAIL COSMETICS

Before we discuss the cosmetics for nail, let us have an idea about nails. Nails
are formed at the dorsal surface as a protective cover of the tips of the finger
and toes. The nail functions as a protective to the exposed tips of the fingers
and toes. This helps to limit their distortion when they are subjected to different
mechanical stress. The natural colour of the nail is pinkish due to the presence
of underlaying blood vessels. The nail should receive regular care to maintain
its beauty. The nail is another part of body which enhances the beauty. The nail
should get regular care to maintain it. Apart from mending the nails in regular
intervals the nail care preparations should be used for beautification of the
nails.

The various preparations of nail care are nail polish or lacquers, removers, nail
creams, cuticle softeners and removers, nail whiteners and bleaches. The
materials used are nail polish, thinner, remover, nail creams etc .The lacquers
are the most widely used nail cosmetic. The product can vary from transparent
uncoloured to pink, metallic and many more shades of attraction. These are
also known as nail enamel or nail varnish. These materials give very good look
and should be glossy. These should be non-toxic and quick drying nature and
easy to apply with good adherence property and long lasting. The nail lacquers
contain materials like film formers, resins, solvents diluents and plasticizers,
colours, perfumes, pearlscent pigments etc. The lacquer removers are required
to remove the old lacquers to put new or to change the colour. These are also
called nail cleansers and it contains solvents like acetone, ethyl acetate, amyl
acetate, toluene along with some fatting agents. Nail creams are the agents
which protect the nail from brittleness. The composition of nail creams are
lanolin, beeswax, petroleum jelly, perfume and these agents give emollient
effect and retain the moisture to give a good shiny appearance. The cuticle is
the thin fold of skin which extend over the lunula at the base of the nail and
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due to its irregular growth it looks unpleasant. There are preparation known as
cuticle removers, which may be an vegetable oil or fatty acid esters. These Cosmaceuticals
agents loosen the cuticle and remove it. The materials used are lanolin, bees
wax, petroleum jelly and perfume. The composition of lotions used to remove
cuticle are alcohol, diethyl phthalate, water, perfume, preservative, steryl
dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. The agents used to whiten the nail at the
edge are called nail whiteners and contain titanium oxide, petroleum jelly and
bees wax. The preparations used to remove different stains and discoloration,
ink, tobacco, vegetable stains are called nail bleaches. It contains hydrogen
peroxide, ammonia, rose water, preservatives. Few example of the formula for
nail cream and lacquers are given in the appendix for an idea about them:

8.7 TOOTH AND DENTAL PRODUCTS

Good dental health is a symbol of good general health. Maintenance of teeth

and oral cavity clean and good health of gum is very important .A good shining
teeth improves the personality of a person. In the contrary a bad odour of the
mouth spoils the impression about good hygiene of a person. It is very much
necessary to maintain the oral hygiene. The materials used for oral and dental
health are tooth pastes, tooth powder, mouth wash, gargles etc.

Tooth paste and tooth powder

Maintenance of shining teeth is very much essential. The products used for
cleaning the teeth and oral cavity are called dentrifices which include tooth
paste and tooth powder. Apart from cleaning the tooth these agents prevent
formation of calculus, dental plaque, tooth decay, reduce mouth odour and
restore freshness of mouth.

The tooth cleansing agent when in a paste form is called tooth paste and when
in powder form it is tooth powder. The ingredients also vary accordingly.

These preparations contain agents like polishing materials, foaming agents,

humectants, binding agents, sweetening agents, flavours, and preservatives.
These agents some times include some medicinal agents to give some
therapeutic effect like clove oil in some paste. The materials widely used are
calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, aluminium sulphate, magnesium
trisilicate, dicalcium phosphate as polishing materials along with soap as
foaming agent and volatile oils extracted from clove or cardamom may be
added with other ingredients. These are available in the form of powder or
pastes. Few formulas are illustrated in the appendix for better understanding:

SAQ 6

Explain the role of Calcium carbonate used in tooth pastes.

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Mouth washes and gargles

As the nomenclature says these are the preparations used to wash the mouth
and throat. These are the agents used to clean the oral cavity and throat and to
prevent microbial infection in this area and to reduce the microbial population
producing bad odour. It is also used to treat against mouth and throat
infections. The materials used in these formulations are antibacterial
substances, antiseptics, astringents, deodourising agents, surfactants,
sweeteners, vehicle, colours and flavours. The antimicrobials may be phenol
and its derivatives, hexachlorophene, quaternary ammonium compounds,
thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic acid etc. These preparations
gives freshness to the mouth and contain good flavours to give good mouth
odour. It may contain menthol to give a cool feeling to the user. Few
illustrative formulas are given for a better understanding about these
preparations.

SAQ 7

Write down the different ingredients used in the mouth wash and their role.

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8.8 SUMMARY

Now-a-days the people spend a major amount on cosmetics and it is an

essential purchase of the modern society. The cosmetics like bathing soap,
shampoo, dental products are considered very essential products of every day
life. The manufacturer follows many marketing techniques to capture the
market. These products are pharmaceutical products but can be marketed like
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general FMCG products. These products can be distributed through any Cosmaceuticals
distribution channel and the market is also a high profit market. All the
methods of advertising and promotion can be used to promote the product in
the market. The buyers are also spread over the entire income group and the
products are also manufactured and available fitting to each income group.
Over all it is a huge market. The selling techniques are followed considering all
the above factors.

8.9 KEY WORDS

Dentrifice : These are the products used to clean and

give therapeutic effect in case of dental
disorders.

Foundation creams : These are the agents applied to the skin to

provide a smooth emmolient base.

Rouges : These are the preparations applied to the

cheek to give a colour cheek.

Peach like finish : The face powders can give skin a peach
like finish if more rice starch is added to the
powder composition.

Frosted-look : When bimuth oxychloride is added to

powder it gives frost like look.

Mettalic powder : When mica, aluminium, bronze is added it

gives metallic luster.

Conditioner : Conditioners are the substances added to

shampoo to give hair more luster after
shampoo wash i.e. lanolin, mineral oil.

Hair setting lotion : These are agents which form an elastic film
after application and keep the hair firmly
positioned. It contains tragacanth, alcohol,
glycerine, water and perfume.

8.10 TERMINAL QUESTIONS

1. Write the importance of cosmetics.
2. What are different types of cosmetics?
3. What are dental products?
4. What are the skin care products?
5. What are hair care products?
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Pharmaceutics
8.11 ANSWERS

Self Assessment Questions

1. Cosmetics are the substances used to improve the appearance and add to
the beauty and personality of a person. The broad classification of the
cosmetics is cosmetics for the skin, cosmetics for hair, cosmetics for nails,
cosmetics for tooth and oral hygiene.
2. The dermis present below the epidermis and above the subcutaneous tissue
and consists of the dense network of structural protein fibers i.e. collagen,
reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semigel matrix of
mucopolysaccaride. The thickness is 0.2 to 0.3cm.This gel structure
provides the elastic nature of the skin.
3. Face powders are widely used for face and body care. These are very fine
particles, shining having absorbent property, adhere to skin and spreads
over a large skin surface area. These powders contain talc, colouring
agents, perfumes etc. to make the skin pleasant to look and touch and give
smooth feeling.
4. These creams are applied for preservation of normal skin and to
supplement food and vitamin like A,D,E including linoleic acid,
aracchidonic acid etc. Mineral oil forms the bulk of the cream. This type of
cream is normally applied during night, the time assigned to skin feeding.
Hence these are called night cream. It has emollient action and prevents
water loss and supplements water loss by presence of humactant materials
in the formula. When vitamins are added to the formula these are called
vitamin creams. The different materials included in this cream are mineral
oil, petroleum jelly, white bees wax, paraffin wax, lanolin, borax, water,
perfume, preservatives and antioxidants. This cream is easy to apply but
not to be rubbed. The stresses due to environmental cause changes or
damage to the skin. These creams help to maintain the normal skin by
reversals of the damage.

5. The composition of the shampoo are anionic surfactants, di or monoalkyl

sulphosuccinates for conditioning, the other agents used are germisides,
antidandruff agents, perfumes, colours, preservatives, thickening agents etc.
The different types of shampoos are powder shampoo, clear liquids, lotion,
gel type shampoo, oil shampoo and medicated shampoo.

6. The materials widely used in the tooth paste are calcium carbonate,
tricalcium phosphate, aluminium sulphate, magnesium trisilicate, dicalcium
phosphate as polishing materials along with soap as foaming agent. The
role of calcium carbonate is to polish the tooth.

7. The materials used in mouth wash formulations are antibacterial

substances, antiseptics, astringents, deodourising agents, surfactants,
sweeteners, vehicle, colours and flavours. The antimicrobials may be
phenol and its derivatives, hexachlorophene, quaternary ammonium
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 compounds, thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic acid etc Cosmaceuticals
which kill the microorganisms in the mouth and keeps odour free. These
preparations give freshness to the mouth and contain good flavours to give
good mouth fragrance. It may contain menthol to give a cool feeling to the
user.

Terminal Questions

1. Cosmetics are the products used to beautify oneself and it is used since
time immemorial. Refer history of cosmetics.

2. The different types of cosmetics used are broadly classified as cosmetics

for the skin, for hair, cosmetics for nail and cosmetics for tooth and oral
hygiene. Refer classification.

3. Dental care products are the substances used for cleaning the teeth and for a
good breathe. Refer 8.7.

4. The skin care products improve the texture of the skin and gives a shining
look. It also protects the skin from drying and gives a protection against
hazardous materials like irritants. Refer 8.4.

5. These are the products which groom the hair and condition it. The hair
colours give the desired colour of the hair. Refer 8.5.

SUGGESTED READINGS

The Theory and Practice of Industrial Pharmacy, Third edition, Lachman,

Liberman, Kanig.

Bentlys Textbook of Pharmaceutics, Eighth edition.

Text book of cosmetics, B.M. Mithal, R.N. Saha.

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Pharmaceutics
APPENDIX A

Composition of face powder

Composition-I

Zinc stearate 5.0gm

Zinc oxide 10.0gm
Calcium Carbonate (light) 20gm
Talc 57.3gm
Titanium dioxide 2.0gm
Magnesium carbonate (light) 5.0gm
Colour 0.2gm
Perfumes 0.5gm

Composition-II

Talc 63.0gm
Kaolin 20.0gm
Calcium Carbonate (light) 5.0gm
Zinc Oxide 5.0gm
Zinc Stearate 5.0gm
Magnesium carbonate 1.0gm
Colour 0.5gm
Perfumes 0.5gm

Composition of lipstick-I

Castor oil 54.0gm

Lanolin,anhydrous 11.0gm
Candelilla Wax 9.0gm
Isopropyl myristate 8.0gm
White beeswax 5.0gm
Carnauba wax 3.0gm
Ozokerite wax 3.0gm
Eosin 2.0gm
Lakes 5.0gm
Rose flavour quantity sufficient
Antioxitant quantity sufficient
174 Preservative quantity sufficient
Composition of rouge-I Powder form Cosmaceuticals

Zinc stearate 14.5gm

Rice starch 14.5gm
Talc 55.0gm
Pigments 14.0gm
Perfumes 2.0gm

Composition-II Rouge creams

Beeswax 16.0gm
Petrolatum (short fiber) 4.0gm
Castor oil (semi hydrogenated) 54.0gm
Paraffin oil 11.0gm
Lanolin (light) 5.0gm
Lakes 10.0gm
Perfumes Quantity sufficient

1) Powder shampoos

Henna powder 5gm

Borax 15gm
Sodium carbonate 25gm
Pot. Carbonate 5gm
Soap powder 50gm
Perfumes quantity sufficient

2) Liquid Shampoo

Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate 45.0gm

Coconut monoethanolamide 2.0gm
Water 53.0gm
Colour quantity sufficient
Perfume quantity sufficient
Preservative quantity sufficient

3) Liquid cream shampoo

Sodium amyl sulphate 30% 25.0gm

PEG 400 distearate 5.0gm
Magnesium stearate 2.0gm
Water 68.0gm 175
Pharmaceutics Ninol AB21 (thickening agent)
Oleyl alcohol quantity sufficient
Perfume quantity sufficient

Gel shampoo

Sodium lauryl sulphate 20.00gm

Coconut monoethanolamide 1.0gm
Propylene glycol monostearate 2.0gm
Stearic acid 5.0gm
Sodium Hydroxide 0.75gm
Water 71.25gm
Perfume quantity sufficient

4) Oil Shampoo

Sulphonated olive oil 16.0gm

Sulphonated castor oil 16.0gm
Water 68.0gm
Perfume quantity sufficient
Preservative quantity sufficient
Colour quantity sufficient

Hair colour Powders

Certified colours 5gm

Tartaric acid 95gm
Ringer solution
Acid dye 6gm
Alcohol 10gm
Acetic acid 10gm
Water 74gm

Henna rinse

Henna leaves 10gm

Alcohol 10gm
Water 45.75gm
Perfumes 0.25gm
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SHAVING PREPARATIONS Cosmaceuticals

Shaving cream

Stearic acid 30gm

Coconut oil 10gm
Palm kerneloil 5 gm
NaOH 1.5gm
KOH 7gm
Glycerine 10gm
Water 40 gm
Perfume and preservative quantity sufficient

After shave lotion

Glycerine 2 gms
Chlorohexidene diacetate 0.2 gm
Menthol 0.1 gm
Alcohol 40 gms
Water 53.1 gms
Perfume quantity sufficient

NAIL COSMETICS

Lacquers

Nitrocellulose 16gms
Resin 9 gms
Plasticizers 4.8 gms
Solvent 60.5 gms
Colour 0.5 gms
Perfume quantity sufficient

Nail cream

Bees wax 15 gms

Ozokerite 2.5 gms
Montan wax 2.5 gms
Mineral oil 40 gms
Cetyl alcohol 2 gms
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Pharmaceutics Borax 1.5 gms
Aluminium stearate 10 gms
Water 26.5 gms
Perfume quantity sufficient
Preservative quantity sufficient

DENTAL PRODUCTS
Tooth Paste
Calcium carbonate 56 gms
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1 gm
Glyserine 22 gms
Gum tragacanth 1.5 gm
Water 19.5 gm
Saccarine 0.1 gm
Flavour quantity sufficient
Preservative quantity sufficient

TOOTH POWDER
The formula of one tooth powder:
Calcium carbonate 76.0gms
Kaolin 11.9gms
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 2.0 gms
Powdered pumice 10.0 gms
Saccarine sodium 0.1 gms
Flavour quantity sufficient
Colour quantity sufficient

Mouth wash and gargle

Benzoic acid 1 gm
Cetyl triethyl ammonium bromide 0.60 gm
Resorcinol 1 gm
Thymol 0.15 gm
Methyl salisylate 0.35 gm
Eucalyptus oil 0.15 gm
Menthol 0.15 gm
Alcohol 22 gms

178
Water 74.60 gms