COSMETIC AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCT

Dr. R. R. Thenge
Professor,
Department of Pharmaceutics,
Dr. Rajendra Gode College of Pharmacy,
Malkapur
COSMETIC AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

• Definition of Cosmetics as per Indian Regulation As per

D&C Act 1940 and rule 1945.
• "COSMETICS is defined as any article intended to be
rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced
into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any
part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes
any article intended for use as a component of
cosmetics"
• DRUG "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure,
mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and
"articles (other than food) intended to affect the
structure or any function of the body of man or other
animals.
COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICAL
PRODUCTS
 COSMETIC Vs COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
• A deodorant is a cosmetic but an antiperspirant is a drug.
• A shampoo is a cosmetic but an antidandruff shampoo is a
drug.
• A suntan product is a cosmetic but a sunscreen product is a
drug.
• A skin exfoliant is a cosmetic but a skin peel is a drug.
• A skin product to hide acne is cosmetic but an anti-acne
product is a drug.
• A skin moisturizer is a cosmetic but a wrinkle remover is a drug.
• An antibacterial deodorant soap is a cosmetic but an
antibacterial anti- infective soap is a drug.
• A lip softener is a cosmetic but a product for chapped lips is a
drug.
• A toothpaste is a cosmetic but an anti-caries toothpaste is drug.
• A mouthwash is cosmetic but an anti-gingivitis mouth wash is a
drug.
 Definition of Cosmetics as per European
Union Regulation

• The European Union Cosmetics Directive defines a

cosmetic as "any substance or preparation
intended to be placed in contact with the various
external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair
system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or
with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the
oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to
cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their
appearance and correcting body odors and
protecting them or keeping them in good
condition."
 CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS AND
COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
• Classification of Cosmetics
• I. According to their use.
• II. According to their functions.
• III. According to their physical nature.
Cosmetics according to their use
a) Use for skin: e.g. creams, powders, lotions,
deodorants, antiperspirants, etc.
b) Use for the nails: e.g. nail polish, nail polish
removers, manicure preparations etc.
c) Use for the teeth and mouth: e.g. dentifrices and
mouth washes.
d) Use for the eyes: e.g. eye creams, eye lashes and eye
liners.
e) Use for the hairs: e.g. shampoo, hair removers, hair
dyes, hair tonics and hair sprays.
 Cosmetics according to their function

a) Curative or therapeutic function: e,g.

antiperspirants and hair preparations.
b) Protective functions: e.g. face powders.
c) Corrective functions: e.g. face powders.
d) Decorative functions: e.g. lipsticks, nail polishes
and eye lashes etc.
 Cosmetics according to their physical nature
1) Aerosols: e.g. hair perfumes, after shave lotion.
2) Cakes: e.g. rouge compacts, make up compacts.
3) Emulsions: e.g. vanishing cream, cold cream,
cleansing cream, all-purpose cream.
4) Oils: e.g. hair oils.
5) Pastes: e.g. tooth paste, deodorant paste.
6) Powders: e.g.face powder, tooth powder, talcum
powder etc.
7) Solutions: e.g. after shave lotions, hand lotions,
astringent lotion.
8) Soaps: e.g. shaving soaps, toilet soap, and
shampoo soap.
9) Sticks: e.g. lipsticks, deodorant sticks
 Classification of Cosmeceutical Products
The term cosmeceuticals were introduced by Albert
Kligman in 1984 to refer to substances that exerted
both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Every day,
there seem to be more and more terms describing what
we are referring to as cosmeceuticals. They are
classified as follows:
a. Beauty supplements
b. Active cosmetics
c. Bio-active cosmetics
d. Performance cosmetics
e. Phytocosmetics
f. Functional cosmetics
g. Dermaceuticals
h. Skinceuticals
i. Cosmetic drugs
j. Therapeutic cosmetics
Another approach to classify cosmeceuticals is based
on the ingredient they contain which is enlisted
and explained in the following section.
1. Retinoids These are the most prevalent cosmeceuticals in the
market. Retinoids are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A.
These are premier evidence-based cosmeceuticals, as they function
through surface cell receptor interaction to produce a clinically
defined effect. Other retinoids such pro-B vitamins (niacinamide and
panthenol) function differently by physically enhancing barrier
properties of stratum corneum.
2. Sunscreens : They are regarded s dermatologists as single
most important formulation that should be applied daily.
UVA and UVB radiation contribute to the disruption of the
extracellular matrix, a hallmark of photoaging. Broad
spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreens are the cornerstone of
photoaging therapy. Enzophenones (dioxybenione,
oxybenzone, sulisobenzone) give protection in the UVB and
UVA II range.
3. Moisturizers : Moisturizers arc most useful products for
management of various skin conditions (e.g. atopic
dermatitis, psoriasis, aging). These products include
emollients, occlusives and humectants. Majority of
moisturizers enhance skin barrier function. These are useful
for hydrated skin. Moisturizers claim to make skin smoother,
softer, more radiant, less wrinkled and firmer. Moisturizers
based on some materials such as petrolatum, silicone,
mineral oil and glycerin enhance skin barrier functions.
 4. Antioxidants Enhance the skin's natural antioxidant
protection system with topical application. They reduce free-
radical damage by blocking the oxidative processes in cells.
These are used to protect skin from photo damage, cancer
and photo aging. Antioxidants inhibit inflammation that
causes collagen depletion. Some antioxidants include
vitamins A, C and E; alpha lipoic acid, lactobionic acid,
ubiquinone, idebenone, polyphenols (catechins and
flavonoids) etc.
 5. Hydroxy acids: These include a hydroxy acids (glycolic
acid, lactic acid) and hydroxy acids (salicylic acid).
Hydroxyacids are used worldwide as active dermatological
drug and cosmetic ingredient. The exact mechanism of action
of hydroxyacids is unknown. Some experts claim that AHAs
increase the synthesis of glucosaminoglycans which improve
quality of elastic fibers, and increase density of collagen.
Whereas BHAs have dermolytic properties and help in
various xerotic and ichthyotic disorders.
 6. Depigmentation Agents: Hydroquinone, aloesin,
arbutin, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acids are'
multple Depigmentation agents. Hydroquinone is
effective and widely used in treatment of melasma, post
inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It acts by inhibiting
conversion of tyrosine to melanin.
7. Protins and peptides: Cosmeceuticals peptides have the
potential to improve the apperance of aging skin. The various
types of cosmetic peptides include signal peptides, career
peptides and neurotransmitters inhibiting peptides.
Cosmeceutical peptides triggers wound healing mechanism
that that activate fibroblast in response to fragmented chain
of elastin and colllagen . Peptide increase collagen production
to improve skin appearance, resulting in smoother skin.
8. Growth Factors
• Epidermal growth factors (EGF) stimulate epidermal growth
and are useful in the treatment of burns and excision
wounds, where it accelerates re-epithelization. Transforming
growth factors (TGF) stimulate normal skin growth and
cellular growth and repair. TGF exerts positive regulatory
effects on the accumulation of the body's extracellular
matrix proteins. TGF is also a mediator of fibrosis (repair
tissue formation) and angiogenesis (development of new
blood cells)
 EVOLUTION OF COSMECEUTICALS FROM COSMETICS
Up to the 19th century, there was no clear distinction
between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals;
• The separation occurred when the first modern
pharmaceutical industry was developed.
• Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980s due to
hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants
against wrinkles.
• Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States
Society of Cosmetic Chemists, coined the term
'Cosmeceutical' in 1961.
• In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in
cosmeceuticals by developing a formula to improve the
appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using
retinoic acid.
• They are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain
ingredients that influence the skin's biological function.
• Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by
delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
• Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are
• efficacy,
• safety,
• formulation stability,
• novelty,
• and patent protection, metabolism within skin and
inexpensive to manufacture. Even though some other
products claim to be unique botanical extracts or
containing some rare ingredients with magic antiaging
properties, most of the cosmeceutical formulations use
fundamental ingredients such as peptides, retinol,
coenzyme Q-10, ceramides, alpha lipoic acid, alpha
hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, aloe vera, panthenol,
kinetin and vitamins A, C, E.
COSMETICS AS QUASI AND OTC DRUGS
• Quasi definition is - having some resemblance usually by
possession of certain a ttributes.
• OTC (over-the-counter) medicines are safe and effective
drugs used by the general public.
• Similarly, cosmetic products can be considered as OTCs.
Some products meet the definitions of
both cosmetics and drugs. Certain claims may cause a
product to be considered a drug, even if the product is
marketed as a cosmetic. Likewise, certain active ingredients
can cause a product to be considered a drug owing to their
therapeutics use. OTC product compliant with the OTC
drug monograph may be marked without prior FDA
approval. Antidandruf shampoo and sunscreen product
considerd to be OTC.
• OTC must be manufactured and controlled in accordance
with cGMP requirement for pharmaceuticals for human
consumption.