Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Table of Contents
PAGE
I. Purpose Of Guide SA-1
The purpose of the Snap Standard Operation Procedures is to ensure that all snaps
are securely attached on the seam and to verify each snap attachment machine is
correctly adjusted as per snap fastener data sheet.
Purchasing of 12-18 ligne (light duty) snaps for infant garments is currently
restricted to the following preferred suppliers (see contact list at end of this section):
Prym International
Schaeffer Fasteners
Scovill
Stocko
Universal Fasteners
While these are suggested suppliers, the vendor is still responsible for ensuring that
the products actually supplied by these suppliers meet all Gap Inc. performance
requirements.
All light duty snaps meet the following minimum physical performance
requirements:
Minimum Maximum
Snapping Force 2 pounds 8 pounds
Unsnapping Force 2 pounds 8 pounds
Later Holding Force 2 pounds 8 pounds
Medium and heavy duties snaps range from 20 – 24 ligne and are available in
parallel-spring (post) and ring-spring (prong) configurations. Medium and heavy
duty snaps, rivets, burrs and shank-type buttons must applied using electric or
Pneumatically assisted presses fitted with cycle control cams and variable die
clearance adjustment. Typical application of medium and heavy duty snaps include,
but are not limited to, outwear, pant waist closures and luggage.
* Application Equipment
• Supplied to the garment maker
• Semi or fully automatic presses
* Technical Support
• Frequent application and maintenance training
• On-site set-up and maintenance service
• Emergency response
• Component selection support
* Component Selection
• Sourcing channel submits pre-production sample to snap supplier
• Snap supplier issues snap fastener data sheet
• Components ordered
* Component Inspection
• Garment maker conducts random inspection components upon receipt
* Pre-production
• Verify foundation thickness
• Apply 50 snaps to a mock seam
• Verify machine pinch setting
• Verify snap attachment strength
• Verify performance per machine
* Scope
• Light duty snaps (16 ligne or below), e.g., Gripper, Snapet, Knipper
* Interim Auditing
• Samples drawn at random by auditor (Mil Std 105E S-2 Sampling
Plan)
• Garment maker submits samples to local laboratory
• Lab evaluates pinch setting and attachment strength
• Results faxed within 24 hours of receipt
* Failure Analysis
• One sample <17 lbs., but >15 lbs., draw additional samples
• One or more samples < 15 lbs., stop production contact snap supplier
for technical support forward samples of defective garments to snap
supplier.
4a) Procedures
* Pre-production
• Apply 50 snaps to mock seams
• Create chart to each area of application
• Measure / record pinch setting of each snap
* Production
• Ten pinch setting measurements (am / pm)
• Ten attachment measurements (am / pm)
• Determine average
• Plot results
Remarks:
• If female and male parts are ring prong socket and stud, then both sides
need to take pinch setting and attachment measurements.
• If female part is ring prong or cap prong socket, and male part is post/
stud, then only female part needs to take pinch setting and attachment
measurements. Male part just conduct attachment measurements.
❖ Generate By
❖ When
Apply strength test to each snap attachment machine when new order
starts.
❖ Why
❖ Generate By
❖ When
❖ Why
The purpose is to ensure all snaps are security attached on the seam
without following failure
• Protruding the leg of the prong
• Snap seat on stitch line
• Snap seat on uneven foundation thickness
• No space (gap) between material and component
• Rough surface and sharp edges.
• Procedure
* Souring Channel
• Complete form, submit samples to snap supplier
* Snap supplier
• Evaluates garment, determine appropriate snaps, completes form, return
to sourcing channel.
* Sourcing Channel
• Forwards form to garment maker
* Garment Maker
• Orders components
* Foundation Thickness
• The foundation thickness is the measurement of the fabric / seam or area
to which the snap is to be applied.
a) Lubrication schedule
The plant technician must service the snap machine once a week
• Remove productive cover and lubricate with a drop of sewing machine
oil;
• Clean the areas not marked in red paint with a dust cloth.
Note :
Do not adjust the parts that are “marked in red paint” as they are
critical areas which will affect the performance of the machine if
handled improperly.
• Dies for different snap ligne and machines must be clearly marked
and kept segregated to prevent mix-up;
• Unless an operator has been trained, only designated technicians are
allowed to change dies or have access to them.
• Operator must not be allowed to fiddle with the settings on the
machines and any setting changes must be made by the appropriate
snap suppliers’ technician.
First part = upper part “marked in red paint” on plunger is used to control
pressure on attachment. Mishandling and fiddling with the setting will
result in poor snap attachment. Only authorized personnel from the snap
suppliers may make the necessary adjustment.
Note : In both cases, if the areas sealed with red paint are tampered with,
the snap supplier has the right to refute all claims on poor snap attachment
from a vendor.
Note : All of the above steps must be strictly followed to prevent the
machine failure or break down.
c) Thickness (foundation)
• Make sure that the snaps are not attached over two different foundation
thickness.
GARMENT MANUFACTURER
SNAP SUPPLIER
Records
Records 1. Snap fastener data sheet Records
1. Snap fastener data sheet 2. One pc pre-production sample return from 1. Snap fastener data sheet
2. One pc pre-production sample snap supplier with snap attachment 2. Garment check & recommendation
3. Garment check & recommendation form 3. Garment check & recommendation form form
SNAP SUPPLIER
• Snap attaching machine delivery
Machine guidance & • Snap attaching die delivery
services • Snap delivery
GARMENT MANUFACTURER
• Component inspection
• Pre-production set up (With Snap attachment strength test – Pre-production control form)
SA -11
Snap Attachment Standard Operating Procedures
COMMENTS _____________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________
SIGNATURES DATE
FASTENER SUPPLLIER
GARMENT MAKER
SOURCING CHANNEL
A.________________________ D._________________________
B._____________________________ E._____________________________
C._____________________________ F._____________________________
*Remarks
Please advise us in case you made any alternation to the above garment
construction.
We are always happy to re-check your garments.
Thank you very much for your kind cooperation.
Best regards,
B.____________________________ E._____________________________
C._____________________________ F._____________________________
-To be continued-
Ref. No.
Page: /
The specific locations of the problems:
KIND OF GARMENTS: X XX ATTACHING LOCATION STATUS
Thank you very much for your kind attention and cooperation.
Scovill
M130
M140 NO.___________________________ DATE:__________________
____________________ . . . .
__________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________ . . . .
____________________ . . . .
STOP PRODUCTION
NG
OK
Measure attachment Fill up M&G check sheet and
strength of snaps in fax to snap supplier call for
Measure attachment question service
strength of snaps in
question
RE-START PRODUCTION
SA - 17
Snap Attachment Standard Operating Procedures
FROM: DATE:
3) GARMENT CHECK
GARMENT IN QUESTION
PRE-PRODUCTION SETTING PER STYLE – 50 individual male/female components to a mock / faux seam which is same construction as the
production.
Maintain 17 LBS for 10 Pull up until Maintain 17 LBS for 10 Pull up until
seconds detachment point or seconds detachment point or
Pass Fail Nature of up to Max. capacity Pass Fail Nature of up to Max. capacity
detachment of tester detachment of tester
1. Socket 1. Stud
2. Socket 2. Stud
3. Socket 3. Stud
4. Socket 4. Stud
5. Socket 5. Stud
6. Socket 6. Stud
7. Socket 7. Stud
8. Socket 8. Stud
9. Socket 9. Stud
Snap Description No. Of Snap Position Of garment Fabric Thickness Pinch Setting Tolerance
[12]
2 12 22 32 42
3 13 23 33 43
4 14 24 34 44
5 15 25 35 45
6 16 26 36 46
7 17 27 37 47
8 18 28 38 48
9 19 29 39 49
10 20 30 40 50
Total Total Total Total Total
[7] Average ([6] / 50) [7] Check whether [7] average is within
[12] Pinch Setting Tolerance. If not,
call SCOVILL
[8] Pinch Setting MAX [8]
(1,2,3,4,5)
[7] Average ([6] / 50) [7] Check whether [7] average is within [12] Pinch
154.5/50 = 3.09 Setting Tolerance. If not, call SCOVILL
Production Control – apply 100 % check every two hours for A) Snap function – open /closure pressure, B) Snap placement / seating – seat on parallel
surface, not over seams. No space (gap) between material and component C) Visual Check – exposed prongs, rough surfaces on snaps.
Production Control – apply 100 % check every two hours for A) Snap function – open /closure pressure, B) Snap placement / seating – seat on parallel
surface, not over seams. No space (gap) between material and component C) Visual Check – exposed prongs, rough surfaces on snaps.
Vendor : Factory :
Garment Description : Machine Model / Number :
Gap Style Number/Division : Operator :
Snap Description/Size : Foundation Thickness :
No. of Snaps on Garments : Pinch Setting Tolerance :
Task Force Coordinator : Date :
PRODUCTION CONTROL - Monitoring machines pinch setting (5 readings) and snap attachment strength (5 readings) twice per eight hour shift, once in the morning and
once in the afternoon to a mock/faux seam which is same construction as the production. Noted : washed items mock up should be submitted after washed.
AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM
Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment
Date
Time 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm
1 Stud
2 Stud
3 Stud
4 Stud
5 Stud
Total 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Avg 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Results below
15 lbs
Results > 15
lbs, <17 lbs
Results <17
lbs for 10 s
Nature of
detachment
SA-27 2000
PINCH SETTING CHART INDIVIDUAL (DAILY)
4.5
3.5
MILIMETERS
AM
3 PM
2.5
1.5
1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-28 2000
SNAP ATTACHMENT STRENGTH CHART (DAILY)
1.2
0.8
PULLING FORCE
AM
0.6 PM
0.4
0.2
0
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-29 2000
PRODUCT SAFETY
Snap Attachment Strength Test - Production Control (Daily)
Vendor : Factory :
Garment Description : Machine Model / Number :
Gap Style Number/Division : Operator :
Snap Description/Size : Foundation Thickness :
No. of Snaps on Garments : Pinch Setting Tolerance :
Task Force Coordinator : Date :
PRODUCTION CONTROL - Monitoring machines pinch setting (5 readings) and snap attachment strength (5 readings) twice per eight hour shift, once in the morning and
once in the afternoon to a mock/faux seam which is same construction as the production. Noted : washed items mock up should be submitted after washed.
AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM
Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment
Date
Time 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm
SA-30 2000
PINCH SETTING CHART INDIVIDUAL (DAILY)
4.5
3.5
MILIMETERS
AM
3 PM
2.5
1.5
1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-31 2000
SNAP ATTACHMENT STRENGTH CHART (DAILY)
35
30
25
PULLING FORCE
20
AM
PM
15
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-32 2000
PRODUCT SAFETY
Snap Attachment Strength Test - Production Control (Daily)
Vendor : Factory :
Garment Description : Machine Model / Number :
Gap Style Number/Division : Operator :
Snap Description/Size : Foundation Thickness :
No. of Snaps on Garments : Pinch Setting Tolerance :
Task Force Coordinator : Date :
PRODUCTION CONTROL - Monitoring machines pinch setting (5 readings) and snap attachment strength (5 readings) twice per eight hour shift, once in the morning and
once in the afternoon to a mock/faux seam which is same construction as the production. Noted : washed items mock up should be submitted after washed.
AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM
Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment
Date
Time 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm
1 Socket
2 Socket
3 Socket
4 Socket
5 Socket
Total 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Avg 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Results below
15 lbs
Results > 15
lbs, <17 lbs
Results <17
lbs for 10 s
Nature of
detachment
SA-33 2000
PINCH SETTING CHART INDIVIDUAL (DAILY)
4.5
3.5
MILIMETERS
AM
3 PM
2.5
1.5
1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-34 2000
SNAP ATTACHMENT STRENGTH CHART (DAILY)
1.20
1.00
0.80
PULLING FORCE
AM
0.60 PM
0.40
0.20
0.00
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-35 2000
PRODUCT SAFETY
Snap Attachment Strength Test - Production Control (Daily)
Vendor : Factory :
Garment Description : Machine Model / Number :
Gap Style Number/Division : Operator :
Snap Description/Size : Foundation Thickness :
No. of Snaps on Garments : Pinch Setting Tolerance :
Task Force Coordinator : Date :
PRODUCTION CONTROL - Monitoring machines pinch setting (5 readings) and snap attachment strength (5 readings) twice per eight hour shift, once in the morning and
once in the afternoon to a mock/faux seam which is same construction as the production. Noted : washed items mock up should be submitted after washed.
AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM AM PM
Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment Pinch Attachment
Date
Time 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm 9:00 am 3:00 pm
SA-36 2000
PINCH SETTING CHART INDIVIDUAL (DAILY)
4.5
3.5
MILIMETERS
AM
3 PM
2.5
1.5
1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-37 2000
SNAP ATTACHMENT STRENGTH CHART (DAILY)
35
30
25
PULLING FORCE
20
AM
PM
15
10
0
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
SA-38 2000
GAP Lab report #
SOP 2000C
VENDOR: CONTACT:
PLANT ADDRESS:
PHONE #:
FAX #:
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
socket
stud
RESULTS SUMMARY:
9 July 98 11 July 98
DATE SUBMITTED: RESULTS SENT:
Page _____ of _____ Technician: __________ Laboratory: Intertek Testing Services (Singapore) Pte. Ltd
Page _____ of _____ Technician: __________ Laboratory: INTERTEK TESTING SERVICES (SINGAPORE) PTE LTD
Schaffer
Germany United States United States
Schaffer GmbH Schaeffer USA Inc. Schaeffer USA Inc.
Schuetzenstrasse 23 950 Brisack Road 5800 Monroe Road
D-42281 Wuppertal Spartanburg, SC 29303 Charlotte, NC 28212
Germany Tel: 864-587-5220 Tel: 704-531-5850
Tel: 49-202-518231 Fax: 864-587-5222 Fax: 704-531-5801
Fax: 49-202-507281 Contact: Claudia Poppe Contact: Karen Kropp
Contact: Ana-Rosa Rafael
YKK Newmax
Hong Kong Japan
YKK Newmax YKK Newmax Co., Ltd
Unit D, 2/F Yeoung Yiu Chung Ichibancho Central Building 22-1
No.8 Industrial Building Ichibancho, Cheyoda-Ku Tokoyo 102-0082
20 Wang Hoi Road, Tel: 81-3-265-2634
Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong Contact: Mr E Saito
Tel: 852-2796-1193
Stocko
Singapore United States
YKK Zippers (Singapore) Pte Ltd. Universal Fasteners Inc.
No. 1 Joo Yee Road 302 Factory Ave.
Jurong Town, Singapore 619197 Lawerenceburg, KY 40502
Tel: 65-265-1875 Tel: 502-839-2231
Fax: 65-268-9446 Fax: 502-839-6525
Contact: Tsuyoshi Fujita Contact: Richard Harlow
Alan Fong Mickey Kubota
Universal Fasteners
United States Hong Kong
Universal Fasteners YKK Hong Kong Ltd.
PO Box 240 14F/ Silver Cord Tower 2
Lawerenceburg, KY 40502 30 Canton Road
Tel: 502-839-2231 Kowloon, Hong Kong
Fax: 502-839-6525 Tel: 852-237-88477
Contact: Richard Harlow Fax: 852-237-56088
Morito
Hong Kong Singapore
Morito Industrial Co., (H.K.) Ltd. Morito (S'pore) Pte. Ltd
Rm. 1805 Tower 6 15 Mccallum Street,
China Hong Kong City, #13-02, Natwest Centre,
33 Canton Road, Hong Kong Singapore 069045
Tel: 852-27366212 Tel: 65-2262563
Fax: 852-27366207 Fax: 65-2260274
Contact: Sammy Somekawa Contact: Hiro Mori
! Mechanical stand
! Imada FB 30 kg scale
! Imada scale mounting plate
! Upper snap clamp, or stud clamp
! Lower fabric clamping device
! A manual lever arm
! A top flywheel handle
Principle
! Design of upper snap clamp & stud clamp to avoid damage caused to the snap
specimen during clamping.
! Design of lower fabric clamping device to avoid induced error by operator in
terms of different clamping practice of fabric; uneven fabric tension.
! Increase repeatability & reproducibility
! 17 lbs.-applied force with holding 10 seconds is designed to evaluate whether
material fatigue occurs from the snap.
! Real attachment force of snap on fabric is measured with minimized the induced
fabric tension.
Result expected
Snap clamp
for Female-type
snap only.
Stud clamp
Stud clamp
INCORRECT #
CORRECT "
(2) By rotation of
the knurled lock
(arm adjust dial)
A. Alignment test
B. Clamping test
C. Weight test
A. Alignment test
Reason:
Misalignment between upper & lower clamping devices will induce error in
the reading.
Procedure:
1) To lower the “Upper Snap Clamp” nearly in touch with the “Lower Fabric
Clamp”, rotate the Flywheel.
2) To verify the center alignment between the “Upper Snap Clamp” and the
“Lower Fabric Clamp” visually.
screw
3) If misalignment is observed, loose all the four locking nuts on the screws by
spanner, moves until the alignment is obtained, then secured it.
$ For prolong used, the washers will deform, thus the sample can no longer
be clamped firmly.
Procedure:
Paper
Level horizontally
Concave
washers
Spindle
b
c Anvil
d Concave
washer
a Retaining ring
Procedure:
3) Hang the 15 lbs. calibration dead weight on the hook of the scale and
verify the accuracy of the force scale.
(Acceptable tolerance, 0.5% of full scale reading e.g. for 30lbs. scale,
tolerance should be 30 x 0.5% = 0.15 lb.)