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First Edition: 2020

ISBN: 978-93-88901-14-7

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Research Interventions and Advancements in Plant Sciences
ISBN: 978-93-88901-14-7

COMPARATIVE STUDY ON DYEING OF


COTTON AND SILK BY USING NATURAL
DYE OBTAINED FROM THE FLOWERS OF
PYROSTEGIA VENUSTA (KER GAWL.) MIERS
Aniruddha S. Deshpande, D. D. More and S. N. Malode*
Department of Botany,
Government Vidarbha Institute of Science and Humanities,
Amravati - 444604, India
*Corresponding author E-mail: satishmalode17@gmail.com

Introduction:
Indian prehistoric times, use of natural dyes in coloring of food substrate, leather as well
as natural protein fibers like wool, silk and cotton were known as major areas of application.
However, growing concern due to environmental pollution caused by the synthetic dyes, a
number of commercial dyers and small textile export houses have started looking at the
possibilities of using natural dyes (Agarwal, 2009).
Natural dyes can be obtained from plant, minerals and animal sources Most of these
sources produce very colorful effects that are so wonderful. Dye matter extracted from the
different parts of the plants like roots, stems, leaves or berries and flowers lift up expectations for
their use to develop various color shades (Vankar, 2007). The roots, nuts, berries, leaves, young
shoots, flowers, outer, inner bark, heart wood and even seeds of plants can be the sources of
natural dyes. Until the early 1900s, existence of over 1000 sources of plants based dyes have
been discovered with some common sources (Korankye, 2010).
Pyrostegia venusta is scandent shrub with angled stem and opposite leaves. Flower of
crimson-bright orange color born in corymbose cymes or racemes (Singh et al., 2001). In
present study, efficiency of dye extracted from flowers of Pyrostegia venusta was evaluated for
development of variety of colors.

Materials and Methods:


The study is carried out in following steps:
a. Flowers of Pyrostegia venusta (Ker Gawl.) Miers. were collected from campus of the
Government Vidarbha Institute of Science and Humanities, Amravati and identified by using

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standard flora (Dhore, 2002). Fresh flower petals of Pyrostegia venusta (Orange color) were
used for dye extraction and dyeing process (Figure 1).

b. 2% Ferrous ammonium sulphate (Mohr‘s salt) and 5% Copper sulphate solutions were used
as a chemical mordants.
c. Extraction of dye was carried out using three solvents – water, ethanol and alcohol. About 10
gm of fresh flowers petals were crushed in mortar and pestle with 50 ml of solvent and the
solution was filtered through muslin cloth to obtain dye.
d. The process of dyeing and mordanting done simultaneously. Dyeing was done by two
methods: i.e. without mordanting and with mordanting. In first case Cotton and silk fabrics
were directly dipped in a dye bath solution containing dye while in later case cotton and silk
fabrics were first treated with either 2% Ferrous ammonium sulpahte or 5% Copper sulphate
and then further dipped in a dye bath solution containing dye. After dyeing, the dyed material
was dried at room temperature.
e. Dyed fabrics were washed with tap water and dried in air at room temperature.
f. Pantone shade color charts system was used for matching the natural colorants shade.

Results and Discussions:


Present study aimed to evaluate the efficiency of dye extracted from Pyrostegia venusta
to generate variety of colors on cotton and silk fiber. Four colors were obtained in total by dyeing
of cotton and silk without mordant (Table I). Ethanolic extract of Pyrostegia venusta found to
exhibit darkest color on cotton (Colonial sage, Panton paint shade no. 615) while aqueous extract
exhibit most lighter shade on silk (Ivory, Panton paint shade no.480) (Figure 2). Whereas
alcoholic extract does not generate any color.

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Research Interventions and Advancements in Plant Sciences
ISBN: 978-93-88901-14-7

Table 1: Effect of aqueous and ethanolic extracts of Pyrostegia venusta on cotton and silk
without mordant
Sr. Color shade
Materials Extract Color
No. (Panton paints color chart)
1 Cotton Aqueous 468 Parchment
2 Silk Aqueous 480 Ivory
3 Cotton Ethanolic 615 Colonial sage
4 Silk Ethanolic 453 Topaz bulsh

Different color shades obtained from aqueous, alcoholic and ethanolic extracts of
Pyrostegia venusta with mordants ferrous ammonium sulphate (FAS) and Copper sulphate
(CuSO4.5H2O) were tabulated in Table II (Figure 2).
Dark husk gold (Panton paint Shade No.5845) was the darkest shade obtained on cotton
dyed with ethanol extract using mordant ferrous ammonium sulphate. Two most lighter shades
obtained on silk dyed with ethanol extract and aqueous extract by using common mordant
Copper sulphate were Light sand (Panton paint shade no.4545) and Coconut (Panton paint shade
no. 481). Alcoholic extract does not yield any color shade on cotton or silk fiber with any
mordant.

Table 2: Effects of aqueous and ethanolic extracts of Pyrostegia venusta on cotton and silk
with mordant
Sr. Color shade
Material Mordant Extract Color
No. (Panton paints color chart)
1 Cotton FAS Aqueous 454 Tan
2 Silk FAS Aqueous 482 Linen
3 Cotton CuSO4.5H2O Aqueous 207 Bone
4 Silk CuSO4.5H2O Aqueous 481 Coconut
5 Cotton FAS Ethanolic 5845 Dark husk gold
6 Silk FAS Ethanolic 5865 Bean sprout
7 Cotton CuSO4.5H2O Ethanolic 5855 Light husk gold
8 Silk CuSO4.5H2O Ethanolic 4545 Light sand

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Indian subcontinent is rich in biodiversity and hence very little resources were evaluated
for their possible dye yielding properties so far. Chavan and Ghosh (2015) evaluated dyeing
capacity of floral parts of African marigold (Tagetes erecta) and found that color obtained on
silk was excellent. Ghurde et al. (2013) obtained 10 wonderful shades when dye extracted from
Ixora coccinea flowers was used as source of dye with Alum, Copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate
and Stannous chloride as a mordant for cotton coloration. Tiwari and Bharat (2008) reviewed
dye yielding potential of more than thirty plants Achanakmar-Amarkantak biosphere reserve.
Many workers found that dyes even possess antimicrobial properties. Das et al. (2011)
reported antimicrobial activity of dyes obtained from Acacia catechu, Pterocarpus marsupium,
Toddalia asiatica and Ventilago denticulate against four bacterial strains Bacillus cereus,
Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Vibrio cholerae. Beiki et al., (2017) successfully
utilized main waste product obtained from walnut i.e. walnut husk as a source of dye which is
capable of inhibiting growth of bacteria and fungus, proving its antimicrobial ability.
Many workers carry out successful dyeing practices by evaluating dye yielding potential
of different plants like – Hibiscus mutabilis by Shanker and Vanker (2006), Tecoma stans by
Chandra et al. (2012), Holarrhena antidysentrica by Deshmukh (2012), Woodfordia fruticose
by Grover and Patni (2011), Red calico (Alternanthera bittzickiana) by Khan et al. (2014), Butea
monosperma by Mall et al. (2017), mangrove bark (Rhizophora apiculata) by Punrattanasin et
al. (2013) etc.

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Research Interventions and Advancements in Plant Sciences
ISBN: 978-93-88901-14-7

As compared to aqueous extract, ethanolic extract exhibit darker color shade. Alcoholic
extract fails to generate any color shade in both dyeing procedures i.e. with and without mordant.
Darker coloration obtained on cotton fiber as compare to silk in both cases. Four colors obtained
when cotton and silk fabrics were directly immersed in dye solution out of which Colonial sage
was the darkest one while Ivory was the most lighter shade obtained. About eight different color
shades were obtained in dyeing with mordant treatment. It was found that Ferrrous ammonium
sulphate exhibit darker coloration on cotton than the Copper sulphate. Dark husk gold was the
darkest shade obtained by dyeing with mordant Ferrous ammonium sulphate. Silk exhibit two
lighter coloration i.e. Light sand and Coconut by dyeing with mordant Copper sulphate.

Conclusion:
Plants has become more reliable sources for extraction of dye due to increased attention
gain by polluting effects and health-hazards of synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are non-toxic and
low pollution resources with minimum side effects which made them usable even in day to day
food products.

References:
Agarwal, K. (2009): Application of natural dyes on textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile
Research, 34, 384-399.
Beiki, T., Najafpour, G. and Hosseini, M. (2017): Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing
properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics, Color. Technol.,
134, 71–81.
Chandra, M. S., Thiripura, S. S., Senthil, K. R. and Thiyagarajan, A. (2012): Dyeing of Cotton
with Natural Dye Obtained from Flower of Tecoma stans, Universal Journal of
Environmental Research and Technology, Vol. 2, (1): 41-46.
Chavan, S. and Ghosh, E. (2015): Cotton and silk dyeing with Natural dye extracted from floral
parts of African marigold (Tagetes erecta), International Journal of Research in Advent
Technology, Special Issue National Conference ―ACGT 2015‖, pp.16-19.
Das, P., Mondal, A. and Parui, S. (2011): Antibacterial activity of some selected dye yielding
plants in Eastern India, African Journal of Plant Science Vol. 5(9), pp. 510-520.
Deshmukh, A. (2012): Color gamut of Holarrhena antidysentrica Linn. dyed silk, International
Journal on Emerging Technologies, 3(2): 32-37.

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Book available online at: https://www.bhumipublishing.com/books/

Dhore, M. A. (2002): Flora of Amravati District with special reference to the distribution of Tree
species, Ph. D. Thesis, submitted to the Faculty of Science, Nagpur University, Nagpur.
Grover, N. and Patni, V. (2011): Extraction and application of natural dye preparations from the
floral parts of Woodfordia fruticosa (Linn.) Kurz, Indian Journal of Natural Products and
Resources, Vol. 2, (4): 403-408.
Khan, A. A., Iqbal, N., Adeel, S., Azeem, M., Batool, F. and Bhatti, I. A. (2014): Extraction of
natural dye from red calico leaves: Gamma ray assisted improvements in color strength
and fastness properties, Dyes and Pigments, 103, pp. 50-54.
Korankye, O. (2010): Extraction and Application of plant dyes to serve as colorants for food and
textiles, Ph.D. thesis submitted to School of Graduate Studies, Kwame Nkrumah
University of Science and Technology, Kumasi.
Mall, A., Saxena, H., Agrawal, N. and Sarkar, N. (2017): Natural dyes from leaves of Butea
monosperma and its application on cotton fabric, using chemical and natural mordants,
International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, Vol. 7, (5): 27- 38.
Punrattanasina, N., Nakpathomb, M., Somboonb, B., Narumolb, N., Rungruangkitkraic, N. and
Mongkholrattanasitd, R. (2013): Silk fabric dyeing with natural dye from mangrove bark
(Rhizophora apiculata Blume) extract, Industrial Crops and Products, 49: 122– 129.
Shanker, R. and Vankar, P. (2007): Dyeing cotton, wool and silk with Hibiscus mutabilis
(Gulzuba), Dyes and Pigments, 74: 464-469.
Singh, N., Lakshminarasimhan, P., Karthikeyan, S. and Prasanna, P. (2001): Flora of
Maharashtra state, Dicotyledones, Vol. 2, (Combretaceae to Ceratophyllaceae), Botanical
Survey of India, Calcutta.
Tiwari, S., and Bharat, A. (2008): Natural dye-yielding plants and indigenous knowledge of dye
preparation in Achanakmar- Amarkantak Biosphere Reserve, Central India, Natural
Product Radiance, Vol. 7(1): 82-87.
Vankar, P. S. (2007): Handbook on natural dyes for industrial applications, National Institute of
Industrial Research.

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