HAWASSA UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT OF CHEMICAL ENGINEERING

(PROCESS ENGINEERING STREAM)

EXTRACTION OF ESSENTIAL OIL FROM LEMONGRASS TO PRODUCE

PERFUME

Thesis submitted to Hawassa Institute of Technology Hawassa University in

partial fulfillment of the Bachelor of Science Degree in Chemical Engineering
(Process Stream).

By

Name ID No

1. Elsa Abiy -------------------------- 0418/05

2. Muluken Anteneh ---------------- 1047/06
3. Selam Aklilework---------------- 1038/05

June 1-2018 G.C

 HAWASSA UNIVERSITY - INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT OF CHEMICAL ENGINEERING

(PROCESS ENGINEERING STREAM)

EXTRACTION OF ESSENTIAL OIL FROM LEMONGRASS TO PRODUCE

PERFUME

By

Name

1. Elsa Abiy
2. Muluken Anteneh
3. Selam Aklilework

Approved by the Examining Board:

Name Date Signature

___________________________ _______________

Chairman, Department's Graduate Committee

___________________________ _______________

Advisor

___________________________ _______________

Examiner
DECLARATION
We declare that the thesis for the B.Sc. degree at Hawassa University, hereby submitted by us
titled “EXTRACTION OF ESSENTIAL OIL FROM LEMONGRASS TO PRODUCE
PERFUME”, is our original work and has not previously been submitted for a degree at this or
any other university, and that all reference materials contained therein have been duly
acknowledged.

Name Signature Date

Elsa Abiy ___________ June 1, 2018 GC

Muluken Anteneh ___________ June 1, 2018 GC

Selam Aklilework ___________ June 1, 2018 GC

ABSTRACT

Perfume is a fragrant liquid made from an extract of plants that has been distilled in alcohol and
water. In this work, essential oil, which is suitable for perfume formulation, is extracted from
lemongrass with the help of water boiling method. Because of this extraction method results in
the expected yield because of its less exposure to air and heat and this confirm the literature
value. The experiment was conducted by varying the time and temperature of extraction. The
yield of oil was measured for samples produced by setting the extraction time at 50min, 100min
and 150min. The temperature effect was determined by setting at 85oC, 100oC and 150oC. The
formulation of perfume was done by taking different ratio of notes; these notes are top notes,
middle note and base notes respectively. The highest yield we obtained from the experiment
(0.87%) conducted for the time duration of 100min and115°c. Another parameter which was
varying is the temperature of the extraction. The changes in temperature have shown a
significant effect on the composition of the extract (yield). In this project the essential oil which
was obtained for extraction time of 100min and extraction temperature of 115oC was
characterized for properties such as boiling point, active unsaturation and aromacity.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First of all, our greatest gratitude goes to God Almighty who permitted the success and
completion of this project. We also express our profound gratitude to our advisor Mr. Zelalem
Belay and Mr Tarekegn, who assists us by giving ideal and different technical supports until the
end of this project. After that want to express our great thanks to all lecturers and staff in the
Faculty of Chemical Engineering. Finally, Hawassa Agricultural campus nutrition laboratory
assistances for their encouragements and supports during this thesis work.

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Table of Contents
Abstract ............................................................................................................................................ i

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT .............................................................................................................. ii

list of Figures ................................................................................................................................. vi

List of table ................................................................................................................................... vii

Acronyms ..................................................................................................................................... viii

Chapter 1: Introduction ................................................................................................................... 1

1.1 Background ...................................................................................................................... 1

1.2 Statement of the problem ................................................................................................. 2

1.3 Objectives ......................................................................................................................... 3

1.3.1 General Objective ..................................................................................................... 3

1.3.2 Specific Objectives ................................................................................................... 3

1.4 Significance of the study .................................................................................................. 4

1.5 Scope of the study......................................................................................................... 5

Chapter 2: Literature Review .......................................................................................................... 6

2.1 Lemon grass .......................................................................................................................... 6

2.2 Essential oil ...................................................................................................................... 6

2.2.1 Chemical Constituents of Essential Oils ........................................................................ 7

2.2.2 Essential oil extraction ................................................................................................... 9

2.3 History of perfume ......................................................................................................... 11

2.3.1 Source of perfume ........................................................................................................ 12

2.3.2 Perfume concentration ................................................................................................. 14

2.3.3 Perfume Notes.............................................................................................................. 15

2.3.4 Uses of perfume ........................................................................................................... 16

Chapter 3: Material and Methods ................................................................................................. 17

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 3.1 Raw Materials ................................................................................................................ 17

3.2 Equipment‟s ................................................................................................................... 17

3.3 Procedures ...................................................................................................................... 17

3.4 Experimental set-up ............................................................................................................ 20

3.5 Processing methods ............................................................................................................. 21

3.6 Characterization of physio-chemical properties of essential oil ......................................... 22

Chapter 4: Results and Discussion ................................................................................................ 24

4.1 The quantitative analysis of the oil extracts ................................................................... 24

4.2 Formulation of perfume ................................................................................................. 26

4.2.1 Determination of mixing ratio ................................................................................ 26

Chapter 5: Material and Energy Balance ...................................................................................... 28

5.1 Material Balance ............................................................................................................ 28

5.1.1 Material balance on Mixer ...................................................................................... 28

Assumption ........................................................................................................................... 28

5.1.2 Material balance on Separator ..................................................................................... 29

5.1.2 Material balance on Steam distillation unit ............................................................ 30

5.2 Energy Balance .............................................................................................................. 32

5.2.1 Energy balance on distillation unit ......................................................................... 32

5.2.2 Energy balance on condenser.................................................................................. 32

Chapter 6: Equipment Design and Specification .......................................................................... 34

6.1 Sizing on distillation column.......................................................................................... 34

6.2 Sizing on mixing tank .................................................................................................... 35

6.3 Sizing on liquor storage tank .......................................................................................... 37

Chapter 7: Economic Evaluation of Perfume Production ............................................................. 38

7.1 Plant capacity and production program .......................................................................... 38

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 7.1.1 Production capacity of the plant ............................................................................. 38

7.1.2 Production Program ................................................................................................ 38

7.2 Purchased equipment cost .............................................................................................. 38

7.3 Cost of raw materials...................................................................................................... 40

7.4 Determination of production cost ................................................................................... 41

7.5 Financial Evaluation Breakeven Point ........................................................................... 42

7.6 Gross and net profit ........................................................................................................ 43

7.7 Plant location............................................................................................................. 45

Chapter 8: Conclusion and Recommendation............................................................................... 47

8.1 Conclusion ................................................................................................................. 47

8.2 Recommendation............................................................................................................ 48

References ..................................................................................................................................... 49

Appendix ....................................................................................................................................... 51

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 LIST OF FIGURES
2.3.1.1 Aromatics sources ........................................................................................................... 12
Figure 3.1: Raw material inside the distiller ................................................................................ 18
Figure 3.2: Separation of essential oil from water ....................................................................... 18
Figure 3.3: Process flow diagram ................................................................................................ 20
Figure 3.4: Set up of water distillation ........................................................................................ 21
Figure 4.1: Extracted result with pale yellow .............................................................................. 24
Figure 4.3: Sample after addition of NaOH ................................................................................. 25

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LIST OF TABLE
Table 2.1: Perfume type Vs. concentration .................................................................................. 15
Table 4.1: Result of yield by varying time and temperature ........................................................ 24
Table 4.2: Result on characterization of essential oil .................................................................. 25
Table 4.3: Overall result in percent .............................................................................................. 26
Table 5.1 material balance equation ............................................................................................. 31
Table 7.1: Purchased equipment cost ........................................................................................... 39
Table 7.2:Determination of total capital Investment (TCI) ......................................................... 39
Table 7.3: Cost of raw materials .................................................................................................. 41
Table 7.4: Determination of production cost ............................................................................... 41

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ACRONYMS
GDP –gross domestic product

SFE –super critical fluid extraction

TCI –total capital investment

FCI –fixed capital investment

WC –working capital

PEC –purchased equipment cost

R&D –research and design

TPC –total production cost

APC –annual production capacity

GP –gross profit

NP- net profit

I- income tax

ROR- rate on return

PBP- payback period

NPV- net present value

CF- cash flow

ID- profitability index

MSDSs- material safety data sheets

PPE- personal protective equipment

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 Thesis

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background
Lemongrass, commonly referred to as "tej sar", is one source of essential oil. It grows abundantly
in the north Ethiopia and can be cultivated commercially. Natural essential oils are volatile,
fragrant and pleasant tasting oils obtained from leaves, roots, flowers and fruits. Lemon grass
essential oil known to have anti-fungal, insecticidal, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Technique
involved in essential oil extraction from plants include; solvent extraction, steam distillation,
water distillation and so on. Oil from lemongrass have wide applications in pharmaceutical,
foods, perfumery and cosmetic.

Perfume comes from the Latin word “perfumer” meaning “to smoke through”. it is a fragrant
liquid made from an extract that will be distilled in to alcohol and water. Perfumery, as the art of
making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and roman. Many ancient perfumes
were made by extracting natural oils from plants through pressing and steaming. The oil was
then burned to scent the air. Since the beginning of recorded history, humans have attempted to
mask or enhance their own odor by using perfume, which emulates nature's pleasant smells.
Many natural and manmade materials have been used to make perfume to apply to the skin and
clothing, to put in cleaners and cosmetics, or to scent the air.

Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma
compounds such as vanillin or coumarin which allowed for the composition of perfumes with
smells. Today, most perfume is used to scent bar soaps. Some products are even perfumed with
industrial odorants to mask unpleasant smells or to appear “unscented”. Because of the oils all
evaporate at different rates perfumes smell different over time.

Perfume is an intricate blend of certain substances in appropriate proportions. The intensity and
longevity of a perfume is based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic
compounds (natural essential oils / perfume oils) used: As the percentage of aromatic compounds
increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent created. Different perfumeries or
perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes.

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1.2 Statement of the problem

Currently, in our country perfume is imported from the foreign countries and this is due to non-
availability of manufacturing sectors, the attention of the government to industrialization,
increment of foreign exchange due importing perfumes, the increment in demand of customers to
use perfumes as basic necessity not as a choice. But still the amount of perfume Ethiopia imports
increase rapidly from year to year. So we loss lots of foreign currency because the tax rate for
luxury goods such as perfume is very high. But if perfume is produced locally the selling price
will be minimized since there is no import taxation.

Most imported perfumes are synthetic odorant which are not pure chemical substance but are
mixture of organic compounds that are harmful. Perfume when applied the distortion of the odor
of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials, this is due to heat harsh solvent and
also through the exposure to oxygen which will denature the aromatic compounds. This
formation of perfume cause skin irritation.

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1.3 Objectives
1.3.1 General Objective
The general objective of this study was to extract essential oil from Lemmon grass and formulate
perfume from the extracted essential oil.

1.3.2 Specific Objectives

The specific objectives of this study were to:
 Extract essential oil

 To determine the optimum extraction parameters (time and temperature) during

extraction process.

 To characterize the essential oil.

 To formulate perfume from the extracted essential oil

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 Thesis

1.4 Significance of the study

This project focuses on the production of perfumes from natural/plant sources as against
synthetic chemicals thereby will reduce any side effect resulting from synthetic chemicals. It
helps to properly utilize lemongrass and will help the development of the perfume industry
locally because of the availability of raw materials. The establishment of perfume manufacturing
plant helps in improving our countries foreign currency and no import taxation, it also provides
job opportunities.

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 Thesis

1.5 Scope of the study

This work was on how essential oil extracted from lemongrass by water distillation method, also
deals the characterization of the essential oil extracted from the lemongrass essential oil and
perfume formulation processes using lemongrass essential oil, vodka, vanilla, frankincense and
distilled water in laboratory scale.

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 Thesis

CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 Lemon grass

Lemongrass mostly grown in winter season, need good climate and fertile soil. It commonly
grows in Asia, Europe and east African countries. In developed countries, by extracting its
fragrance it used for different purposes like perfume, lotion, bath salts, cosmetics, detergent and
soap production, in our country it growth in different regions but not used for any purpose.

2.2 Essential oil

Essential oils, or volatile oils, are found in many different plants. These oils are different from
fatty oils because they evaporate or volatilize on contact with the air and they possess a pleasant
taste and strong aromatic odor. They are readily removed from plant tissues without any change
in composition. Essential oils are very complex in their chemical nature. The two main groups
are the hydrocarbon terpenes, the oxygenated and sulphured oils.

These oils do not have any obvious physiological significance for the plant. They may represent
byproducts or metabolism rather than foods. The characteristic flavor and aroma that they impart
are probably to some advantage in attracting insects and other animals, which play a role in
pollination or in the dispersal of the fruits and seeds. When in high concentration, these same
odors may serve to repel enemies of the plants (pest). The oils may also have some antiseptic and
bactericidal value. There is some evidence that they play an even more vital role as hydrogen
donors in oxide reduction reactions, as potential sources of energy, or in affecting transpiration
and other physiological processes.

Some of the most important essential oils used in the manufacture of perfumes are as follows:

 Rosemary, (Rosmarinus officinalis)

 Violet
 Grass oil

Several important essential oils are derived from grasses and used in the perfume industry. The
genus Cymbopogon (formerly Andropogon) is especially rich in perfume species.

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 Lavender
 Jasmine
 Oak Moss
 Lemon-grass Oil

2.2.1 Chemical Constituents of Essential Oils

Pure essential oils are mixtures of more than 200 components, normally mixtures of terpenes or
phenylpropanic derivatives, in which the chemical and structural differences between
compounds are minimal. They can be essentially classified into two groups:

Volatile fraction: Essential oil containing the monoterpene and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, as
well as their oxygenated derivatives along with aliphatic aldehydes, alcohols, and esters.

Nonvolatile residue: containing hydrocarbons, fatty acids, sterols, carotenoids, waxes, and
flavonoids.

Important physical and chemical properties of essential oils

The chemical properties of essential oils depend on the natural factors such as type of species,
the geographical origin and the location of the plant, time of harvesting, plant parts from which
the oils are extracted. Essential oils components and percentage are different from oil to oil even
for the same botanic plant due to:

A. Weather and planting time

Most of herbs are planted but small amounts could also be wild grown or collected plants. The
oil percentage from a given summer could be different from a previous summer even from the
same field. The component analysis of the oil could also be different from one season to another.
B. Soil elements
C. Irrigation: the highest yield of plant material results from increasing the leaf area.
D. Time of harvest: the peppermint oil yield increases as the herb approaches maturity in
the full bloom stage.

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E. Length of distillation operation

To specify time for distillation operation you must consider whether the herbs (species) are
fresh, faded, or dry. It would take additional time for distillation if the herb is faded than if it
is fresh. Leaves take less time than seeds because leaves are thinner than seeds and cells are
more concentrated in leaves than seeds.
Physical properties of essential oil
Solubility
1. Solubility in alcohol: most essential oils are only slightly soluble in water and miscible with
absolute alcohol. The solubility of oil may change with age.
2. Solubility in water: most of essential oils of commercial interest are steam volatile,
reasonably stable action of heat and practically insoluble in water hence suitable for
processing by steam distillation.
Boiling range: In the case of isolates and synthetics, the boiling range is an important criterion
of purity.
Evaporation residue: An important criterion of purity is the evaporation residue; the percentage
of the oil which is not volatile at 100 oc. It is important to study the odor of oil as it volatizes
during the heating.
Flash point: The flash point may prove useful in the evaluation of an essential oil. The flash
point has value as an indication of adulteration: addition of adulterants such as alcohol and low
boiling mineral spirits will greatly lower the flash point.

Chemical properties

In general, essential oils consist of chemical compounds that have hydrogen, carbon, and oxygen
as their building blocks. These can be subdivided into two groups: the hydrocarbons, which are
made up almost exclusively of terpenes (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, and diterpenes); and the
oxygenated compounds, mainly esters, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, phenols, and oxides; acids,
lactones, sulphur and nitrogen compounds are sometimes also present.

Aldehydes: citral, citronellal, and neural are important aldehydes found notably in lemon-
scented oils such as Melissa, lemongrass, lemon verbena, citronella, etc.

Aldehydes in general have a sedative effect; citral has antiseptic properties.

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 Thesis

Phenols: These tend to have a bactericidal and strongly stimulating effect, but can be skin
irritants. Common phenols include eugenol (found in clove and West India bay), thymol (found
in thyme), carvacrol (found in oregano and savoury).

Terpenes: common terpene hydrocarbons include limonene (antiviral, found in 90 per cent of
citrus oils) and pinene (antiseptic, found in high proportions in pine and turpentine oils).
Sesquiterpenes have outstanding anti- inflammatory and bactericidal properties.

Ketones: some of the most common toxic constituents are ketones, such as thujone found in
mugwort, tansy, sage and wormwood; and pulegone found in pennyroyal and buchu. Non-toxic
ketones include jasmine (in Jasmine) and fenchone (in fennel oil).

Oxides: by far the most important oxide is cineol (or eucalyptol). It has an expectorant effect,
and is well known as the principal constituent of eucalyptus oil. It is also found in a wide range
of other oils, especially those of a camphoraceous nature such as rosemary, bay laurel, tea tree,
and cajuput.

Esters: probably the most widespread group found in essential oils, which includes linalyl
acetate (found in bergamot, clary sage, and lavender) and geranyl acetate (found in sweet
marjoram). They are characteristically fungicidal and sedative, often having a fruity aroma.

Alcohols: these compounds have good antiseptic and antiviral properties with an uplifting
quality; they are also generally non-toxic. Among the most common terpene alcohols are linalool
(in rosewood, linaloe, and lavender), citronellol (in rose, lemon, eucalyptus and geranium) and
geraniol.

2.2.2 Essential oil extraction

Fragrance extraction refers to the extraction of aromatic compounds from raw materials, using
methods such as water distillation, solvent extraction, expression or enfleurage. The results of the
extracts are essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in
the extracted product.

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 Thesis

To a certain extent, all of these techniques tend to distort the odor of the aromatic compounds
obtained from the raw materials. Heat, chemical solvents, or exposure to oxygen in the extraction
process denature the aromatic compounds, either changing their odor character or rendering them
odorless.

Some methods of extraction

A. Solvent Extraction

This is most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern
perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired
aromatic compounds. Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds
form woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics
from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for
distillation or easily denatured by heat. Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent
extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called a "concrete."

B. Steam Distillation

Distillation is the process in which a liquid or vapor mixture of two or more substances are
separated into its component fractions of desired purity, by the application and removal of heat.
In simpler term, implies vaporizing or liberating the oils from the trichomes / plant cell
membranes of the herb in presence of high temperature and moisture and then cooling the vapor
mixture to separate out the oil from water.

Distillation is a common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as
orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-
collected through condensation of the distilled vapor. Distilled products, whether through steam
or dry distillation are known either as essential oils or ottos.

Today, most common essential oils, such as lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus, are distilled.
Raw plant material, consisting of the flowers, leaves, wood, bark, roots, seeds, or peel, are put
into an alembic (distillation apparatus) over water.

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C. Expression (cold pressing)

It is also known, is confined to citrus oils. It is a description of any physical process in which the
essential oil glands in the peel are crushed or broken to release the oil.

D. Water Distillation

The principle of water distillation is to boil a suspension of an aromatic plant material and water
so that its vapors can be condensed and mostly used by small scale producers of essential oils. In
water distillation the plant material is almost entirely covered with water as suspension in the
still which is placed on a furnace.

Water is to boil and essential oil is carried over to the condenser along with the steam. The oil,
which is immiscible with the water, is then separated.

Most water distillations are performed in rural areas where no access to a steam boiler is
possible, or if a satellite boiler is available it complicates the process of oil production. In water
distillation the plant material is always in direct contact with water. An extremely important
factor is that in stills where the water is boiled by direct contact with the fire, the water present in
the still must always be more than enough to last throughout the distillation; otherwise the plant
material can overheat and char.

E Steam and Water Distillation

To overcome the drawbacks of the water distillation, the technique was modified and wet steam
distillation was developed. In steam distillation, the steam can either be generated in a satellite
boiler or within the still, although separated from the plant material. Direct contact of plat
material with hot furnace bottom is thus avoided. The water below the grid is heated by open fire
which produces saturated and wet steam which rises through the plant material vaporizing the
contained essential oil.

2.3 History of perfume

The word perfume used today derives from the Latin word „‟per fumes‟‟, meaning "through
smoke." Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and
was further refined by the Romans and Persians.

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 Thesis

The art of perfumery was known in Western Europe ever since 1221, considering the monks'
recipes of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy. In the east, the
Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at
the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, best known as Hungary Water. The art of
perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were
taken to France Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, Rene the Florentine (Renato oil
fiorentino). France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetic
manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th
century, grew into a major industry in the south of France.

Between the 16th and 17th century, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body
odors resulting from infrequent bathing. Partly due to this patronage, the perfumery industry was
created. In Germany, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created perfume water called Aqua
Adminabilis, today best known as eau de cologne.

Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma
compounds such as vanillin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells
previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics alone.

2.3.1 Source of perfume

2.3.1.1 Aromatics sources
Plant Sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds The
sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more
than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have
remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the
respective sources of petitgrain neroli, and orange oils.

Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest and most common source of perfume
aromatics.Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus,
plumeria, miosa, tuberose, narcissus, scented geranium, Cassie, ambrette as well as the blossoms
of citrus and ylang-ylang trees.

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Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected
odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic. Notable
exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry. The most commonly used fruits yield
their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, and limes

Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets
rosemary, and citrus leaves. Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to
perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf.

Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly
fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as
medicines for a large variety of ailments. Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum,
frankincense, myrrh, Perusbalsam, gum benzoin. Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued
source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring
aromatic compounds. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous
secretion of fossil conifers.

Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumers include iris
rhizomes, Vetiver roots, and various rhizomes of the ginger family.

Seeds: Commonly used seeds include Tonka bean, carrot seed, coriander, caraway, cocoa,
nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise.

Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are
indispensable in perfumery. Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, Agar wood,
birch, cedar, juniper, and pine. These are used in the form of macerations orry-distilled (rectified)
forms.

Animal Sources

Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and excelled
by the sperm whale. Ambergris should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in
jewelry. Because the harvesting of ambergris involves no harm to its animal source, it remains
one of the few animalic fragrance agents around which little controversy now exists.

Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver.

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Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in
the family Viverridaemongoose. The World Society for the Protection of Animals investigated
African civets caught for this purpose.

Hyraceum: Commonly known as "Africa Stone", is the petrified excrement of the Rock Hyrax.

Honeycomb: From the honeycomb of the honeybee. Both beeswax and honey can be solvent
extracted to produce an absolute. Beeswax is extracted with ethanol and the ethanol evaporated
to produce beeswax absolute.

Synthetic Source

Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which
are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh
ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic
aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from
natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that
can be inexpensively synthesized from a terapnes Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually
not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to march the
fragrant compounds found in various orchids

2.3.2 Perfume concentration

Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds. Various sources differ
considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a perfume is
based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic compounds (natural essential
oils / perfume oils) used: As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the
intensity and longevity of the scent created. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's
approximate concentration by percent/volume on perfume oil, which are typically vague or
imprecise. A list of common terms (Perfume-Classification) is as follows:

 Perfume extract, or simply perfume (Extract): 15-40% aromatic compounds.

 Esprit de Perfume (ESdP): 15-30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength
concentration in between EDP and perfume.
 Eau de Perfume (EDP), Perfume de Toilette (PDT): 10-20% (typical 15%) aromatic
compounds.

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 Eau de toilette (EDP): 5-15% (typical 10%) aromatic compounds.

 Eau de Cologne (EdC): Chypre citrus type perfumes with 3-8% (typical 5%) aromatic
compounds.
 Perfume mist: 3-8% aromatic compounds (typical non-alcohol solvent).
 Splash (EdS) and Aftershave: 1-3% aromatic compounds
.
Type Concentration
Oil Alcohol Water
Perfume 15-30 63-80.75 42.5-70
Eau De Perfume 8-15 68-82.8 9.2- 17
Eau De Toile 4-18 73-86.4 9.6- 18.4

Table 2.1: Perfume type Vs. concentration

2.3.3 Perfume Notes

Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious
scent accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading
to the keeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes
are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.

Top notes: The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes
consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial impression
of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Also called the head notes.

Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to when the top notes dissipate.
The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the
often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. They
are also called the heart notes.

Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The
base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and
solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are
usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application.

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The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes; as well the scents of the
base notes will be altered by the type of fragrance materials used as middle notes.

2.3.4 Uses of perfume

Perfumes have so many benefits, since it is extracted from different essential oils, which contains
a fragrance or a scent.
 The sense of smell is considered a right brain activity, which rules emotions,
memory and creativity.
 Perfumes are used to mask body odor.
 Used to make people feel good and can be used as a form of psychotherapy.
 To heal and cure physical and emotional problems
 Perfumes are being revived to help balance hormonal and body energy.
 It helps to bolster the immune system when inhaled or applied topically.

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Chapter 3: Material and Methods

3.1 Raw Materials

 Lemongrass (Essential oils)

 Vodka
 Distilled water

 Other ingredients

3.2 Equipment’s
 500ml Separation funnel
 250mlBeakers
 Electronics weighting balance
 Water bath (KW 1000DC)
 500ml Round bottom flask
 Electric heater
 Spoon
 Rotary grinder
 Small dark bottle (Perfume bottle)

3.3 Procedures
I. Extraction of essential oil
Fresh lemon grass leaves sample was collected from the market, with a mass of approximately
600g was prepared by loading on an electronic balance. which is then allowed to dry for about a
certain day in the Laboratory. On completion of the drying process, the grass was re-weighed
using the analytical balance to determine any potential mass loss as a result of the evaporation of
both moisture and volatile oil components due to the drying effect. After the drying process ends
size reduction in to smaller pieces will continues using electronic grinder. then Clean all
equipment‟s used in the experiment, arrange all the general set up of distillation units .Fill the
raw material into the distiller and Set the operating temperature at 130 °c. Fill the condenser with
water before we switched on the boiler and starts generating steam, collect data with in different
temperature and time. Finally, pour the product into the separation unit

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Figure 3.1: Raw material inside the distiller

II. Separation of oil from water

First fix a separating funnel in a stand. And Pour a mixture of oil and water through a filter
funnel into a separating funnel, Close the separating funnel using a lid. Now, open the
stopcock of the separating funnel to release the pressure inside the funnel. And Place the
funnel in the stand and allow the two liquids to separate completely in the beaker by pouring
the lower layer of water carefully, Close the stopcock of the separating funnel as the oil
reaches the separating funnel. Finally Place another beaker below the separating funnel to
collect oil from the separating funnel.

Figure 3.2: Separation of essential oil from water

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III. Mixing of oil and water

Since oil does not dissolve in water, the answer is simple: The oil floats on the top of water,
since its specific gravity is less than that of water. When oil and water are mixed together, there
is a brief moment when there will be a uniform mixture of oil and water, with drops of oil
equally dispersed in the water.

Note that we are not taking here about dissolving oil in water (and creating a solution that is
impossible, since oil is not soluble in water. We are referring to the even dispersion of oil
droplets in water. A mixture of oil and water is called an emulsion. When the mixing ceases, the
oil will once again float to the top of the water.

To maintain the situation with the oil and water remaining uniformly mixed, we will use a
substance called an emulsifier. An emulsifier stabilizes the emulsion: - the mixture of oil
dispersed in water or water in oil. so that the oil and water remain “mixed” for a long time.

There are two kinds of emulsions:

 When there is more water than oil, the oil is dispersed within the water.
 When there is more oil than water, the water is dispersed in the oil.
When the amount of water in the emulsion is relatively large, the end product is a liquid, and is
called a liquid emulsion. If the end product of the emulsion is a semi solid state, the product is
like a cream.

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Figure 3.3: Process flow diagram

3.4 Experimental set-up

According to what has been found and discussed in literature, a number of factors individually
play a significant role in the quantity and quality of essential oils extracted from plant materials.
These factors include the type of extraction method and operating conditions of the processing
methods, as has been mentioned and discussed.

It is therefore quite evident that for a given situation when all factors come into play, their
individual effect on the quantity and quality of the extracted oil cannot be quantified easily. This
section shows the experimental methods and techniques used for the extraction and formulation
of perfume lemon grass essential oils using water distillation.

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The experimental equipment of steam extraction of essential oils is illustrated schematically in

figure below.

Figure 3.4: Set up of water distillation

This type of experimental setup is classified as water distillation equipment which essentially
consists of a static bed. This batch equipment possesses advantages of the ease of operation,
simple construction and relatively low capital construction cost.

3.5 Processing methods

I. Water distillation process

The sample was placed in a mesh basket, which was positioned, in an erected position, in the
extraction chamber. The chopped grass would clump together when introduced to steam in the
distillation process, so the most effective method of extraction in this situation is to submerge
fragile plant material in pure boiling water instead. The water protects the extracted oil from
overheating. The condensed liquids cool down and separate from each other. The remaining
water, which can sometimes be fragrant, is referred to by several names including hydro late,
hydrosol, herbal water, essential water, floral water, or herbal distillate.

Condenser is provided up on still and connector. Condenser consists of two connecting tubes.
Water is passed through outer tube and mixture of steam and oil passes through inner spiral tube.
The condensed mixture of oil and water is collected in the collector.

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The exit line of the condenser was observed for the first condensate drop in the collector, at
which point a stop watch was started. The time the first drop was collected was taken to be the
initial extraction time of the oils from the plant material.

The whole apparatus is properly sealed to avoid leakage. Lemon grass (chopped) is filled in the
second still and its lid is fitted tightly, so that oil and vapor do not leak out. Steam is injected in
the second still with the help of connecting tube from the first still. The upcoming steam carries
away the oil from the plant material i.e. lemon grass and both oil as well steam pass.

The equipment had to be cleaned each time before the next run, by running steam through it to
ensure that all the extracts which could have condensed on the equipment were removed to avoid
contamination with the extracts of the runs that followed. Oil samples extracted were stored in a
dark glass bottles with suitable caps in cool place away from light.

3.6 Characterization of physio-chemical properties of essential oil

It is the responsibility of the distiller to produce essential oil that meets the international
standards of odor, color, chemical composition and overall quality at a competitive price. An oil
which meets the standards or conforms to the recognized specifications of the specific oil, can be
thought of as possessing a fitness for use in whatever industry it is needed.

This quality is checked by different parameters. Some of this which we test in laboratory are: -

A. Physical Properties (Appearance, color and odor).

 Color, Extracted result with pale yellow color.
 Odor,lemmen grass odorance
 Appearance, mobile liquid
B. Measuring it’s boiling point
By using the thermodynamic point of view firstly the temperature will raise and at some point it
will be constant and that point will be its boiling point. The standard boiling point of essential oil
is 80-160ºc.

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C. Acidic Determination

Testing for Acid base titration involves transfer of proton from the acid to the base. For acid
base titration, the end point is the condition at which the moles of the acid exactly cancel out the
moles of the base. Hence the solution is neutral. We shall use the color change of
phenolphthalein to determine the end point.
Finally, the concentration of titrate calculated by
V1C1=V2C2
V1 is volume of essential oil
C1 is concentration of essential oil
V2 is volume of titrate
C2 concentration of titrate
Procedure:
 First we measure the volume of both sodium hydroxide and the lemon grass(essential oil).
which is 1ml and 1.5 respectively.
 Sodium hydroxide is added drop by drop to the test compound, with shaking, until the
lemon grass oil changes its color.
 Then calculate for the concentration of the oil using the concentration of sodium
hydroxide
 Evaluate the acidic value.
D. Testing for PH
 Pour sample of essential oil/perfume in measuring cylinder
 Power on the device and deep the PH sensor into distilled water and wait
until the PH becomes neutral.
 Put PH meter in to the sample
 Read the PH measurement directly
E. Calculating its specific density
Once the volume and mass of essential oil is determined, then we can easily calculate
density of essential oil. To determine its specific gravity. We will define the density of
essential oil to density of water.

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Chapter 4: Results and Discussion

The effects of operating parameters such as temperature and types of sample on the quantity and
quality of essential oils extracted by means of water distillation method were studied using
lemon grass leaves as the plant material.

4.1 The quantitative analysis of the oil extracts

The yields of the extraction are calculated from the relation between the essential oil mass
obtained and the raw material mass used in the extraction (Y = extract/raw material, %). The
yield curve is constructed from oil mass extracted in relation to the amount sample used in the
extraction. In this work we used 600g of leaves and 800ml of distilled water.

Table 4.1: Result of yield by varying time and temperature

Temperature (0C)
Time (min) 85 100 115
50 0.23 0.4 0.48
100 0.33 0.67 0.87
150 0.44 0.51 0.64

Results on characterization of essential oil

 Physical characteristics, the essential is pale yellow, insoluble in water. And it is volatile
and has a cooling effect in the skin.

Figure 4.1: Extracted result with pale yellow

 PH determination, essential oil has 5.6 and 6.2 for perfume

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 Boiling point, the range of boiling point of lemongrass essential oil is 80-1600c. our
result is 1150c
 Acidic determination using volume and concentration we calculate the value as 12.86%
this simply implies that lemongrass essential oils are highly unsaturated and fell within
the range of edible oil.

Figure 4.2: Sample before addition of NaOH

Figure 4.3: Sample after addition of NaOH

 Specific gravity, taking the density of water as 1gm/ml then calculated the specific
gravity which is 0.95 kg/m3.

Table 4.2: Result on characterization of essential oil

Characteristics Experimental Result
Colour Pale Yellow
Physical characteristics Odour Lemongrass Odorant
Physical Appearance Mobile Liquid
Acidic value 12.86%
Boiling point 115 oc
PH value 5.6

Specific gravity 0.95

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4.2 Formulation of perfume

Formulation will be done by taking different ratio of the below notes. To make perfume, mix
different amount of frankincense, alcohol (vodka), distilled water to total of essential oil
extracted and divided them evenly between base, middle and top notes. Start with the base notes
then followed by middle notes and finally the top note is added.

4.2.1 Determination of mixing ratio

The Notes
Because the oils all evaporate at different rates perfumes smell different over time.as we
discussed in the above topics. Base notes are the smell staying the longest, middle notes, bridge
notes bringing base & top together and top notes as the smell that evaporates first. We selected
the following notes based on their notes as follows: -

Base note ingredients: vanilla, frankincense.

Middle note ingredients: lemongrass oil (essential oil) extracted.

Top notes: water, alcohol (vodka) respectively.

Mixing ratio
In percentage form:

1. 20% essential oil, 25% vanilla, 10%frankincense, 15%distilled water and 30% vodka
2. 30% essential oil, 15% vanilla, 25%frankincense, 20%distilled water and 10% vodka
3. 30% essential oil, 20% vanilla,20% frankincense, 20% distilled water and10%vodka

No of samples Excellent Very Good Good Bad

1 20% 80% 0% 0%
2 60% 40% 0% 0%
3 40% 60% 0% 0%
Table 4.3: Overall result in percent

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Discussion of formulated result

From table 4.2, these three experiments that sensed by different person shows that sample two is
best based on their sensory evaluation. More over its percent for excellent is 60% and that for
very good is 40% and also it does not show bad odor respectively. Due to high variation on base
note ratio difference the final result will also vary by its odor, flavor and aroma as evaluated
above.

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Chapter 5: Material and Energy Balance

5.1 Material Balance

5.1.1 Material balance on Mixer
Assumption
 The process is carried out in batch process
 The capacity of raw material and water in distillation tank is 250 gm/batch
 In the mixer the standard usage of vodka and water is 10% and 20% respectively
 In the separator the ratio of oil to water is 1:25

Accumulation and generation term should be neglected

Mass of essential oil in S-6 can be calculated as:

. [(s-4) + (S-5) +(S-6)] = mass of (S-3)

Mass of vodka in S-4= 0.1*250 gm=25gm

Mass of water in S-5= 0.2*250=50 gm

Mass of essential =Ms-3-((S-5) - (S-4))

250gm-(50gm+25gm) = 175gm

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5.1.2 Material balance on Separator

To perform the material balance on separator we neglect the accumulation and generation term.

From our assumption the amount of oil to water ratio is 1:25.since we have 175 gm of essential
oil which is entering to the mixer, the water leaves the separator is:

Input=out put

MS-8 = 175gm*25=4375gm

MS-7 = MS-6 + MS-8 solve for MS-7

MS-7 = 175gm +4375gmwhich implies MS-7 = 4550gm

MS-7 is the amount of oil and water condensate entering to the condenser

MS-8 =175gm*25=4375gm

MS-7 = MS-6 + MS-8 solve for MS-7

MS-7 = 175gm+4375 gm which implies MS-7 = 4550gm

MS-7 =4550gmis the amount of oil and water condensate entering to the condenser.

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5.1.2 Material balance on Steam distillation unit

Assumption:

 In the distillation the amount of steam entered to extract oil is assumed to be 3000
kg/batch.
 Accumulation and generation term should be neglected.
 Since our extraction method is water distillation, the Steam entering to the distillation
column has a direct intimate contact with lavender dried grass. Since we have 175gm of
essential oil, we have to use:

Mass of leave = =4375gm

(Mass in S-9)+ (mass in S-10) = mass in (S-7+S-11)), then we can calculate the amount of
sludge that exit from distillation column in stream 11.

MS-9 + MS-10= MS-11 +Ms-7

MS-11 = MS-9+ MS-10- MS-7

MS-11 = (4375+250+3000 – 4550) gm

MS-11=3075 gm

Therefore, the amount of sludge leaving from distillation column is 3075 gm.

Since,

, then we can calculate the

amount of sludge that exit from distillation column in stream 11.

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MS-9 + MS-10= MS-11 +Ms-7

MS-11 = MS-9+ MS-10- MS-7

MS-11 = (4375+250 – 4550) gm

MS-11= 75 gm

Therefore, the amount of sludge leaving from distillation column is 75 gm

Material Equipment
Hydro distiller separator mixer
Input Output input Out Input Output
(gm) (gm) (gm) put (gm) (gm)
(gm)
Chopped lemongrass 50 175
Distilled water 200 20 20
vodka 10 10
Frankincense oil 25 25
Vanilla oil 15 15
Lemongrass essential 3 30 30
oil
Oil and water 75 75
condensate
hydrosol 72

total 250 250 75 75 100 100

Table 5.1 material balance equation

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5.2 Energy Balance

5.2.1 Energy balance on distillation unit
Assumption

 The size reduced leaves and flowers of essentials enter to steam distillation at 30 oC and
heated by steam which enters at 115 oC and leave the distillation at 95 oC in the form of
vapors of oil and water.
 Also there is no reaction inside the steam distillation. As a result, there is no heat of
reaction inside the distillation. QR = 0

Q = H product – H Reactant + QR, QR =0 from our assumption

Since the temperature of oil and water inside the distillation is 95 oC which is the same as
temperature of the vapors in the outlet. But the temperature of the sludge inside the distiller is

86oc. As a result the energy balance becomes as follows. H Product= mCp∆Tp ,but,∆Tp =0 the same
principle applied to the sludge.

Which implies, Q = - H Reactant, Q = - (msCp∆Ts + mlCp∆Tl) + hfg where, s - steam and l- grass

Q= [(200gm*2.257(95-115) + (50gm*4.72 (95-30)] + (0.208*2172)

Q= 15.06 kJ/kg

And the latent heat of steam (hfg) at the mean temperature from thermodynamics table is 2.172
J/gm.(The process is endothermic)

5.2.2 Energy balance on condenser

Assumption
The vapor of oil of and water leaves from the distillation at 95 oc enters to the condenser and
leaves the condenser at 20oC also the cooling water enters to the condenser at 25 oc and leaves at
65oc. The energy balance becomes as follows. But we need 40kg of water for one batch and
specific gravity (cp) of water 4.2KJ/kg.

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Q = mCp∆T (oil) + mcp∆t (water)where

For oil, m =200gm, Cp = 4.18KJ/kg.k,

Q = [200 * 4.18(20-95)] + [40*4.18 (65-25)]

Q = -56 kJ/kg

Which implies heat is released in the condenser which is exothermic process. That is why heat
becomes negative.

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Chapter 6: Equipment Design and Specification

The size of the major equipment is calculated in the following ways

6.1 Sizing on distillation column

In distillation column the two mixtures entering are steam and essential oil leaves and flowers.

Since the density of essential oil and steam is differing from each other we take the average
density or mixture of density.

Density of mixture can be determined as,

mixture = (X steam * steam) + (X oil * essential oil)

Xlemmong

124g/mol

= 0.885 g/ml = 885kg/m3

=985 kg/m3

= 18 kg/kmol

Therefore, X

X steam

X steam

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So, mixture = (X steam * steam) + (X * )

Mixture = m3

The total mass in the column is the sum of essential leaves and steam.

Total mass = 3000 kg/batch+425 kg/batch =3425 kg/batch

So,

So the capacity of distillation column is 3.8 m 3 and when it is 90% full, its
actual volume becomes

V actual

And the distillation column must be made from stainless steel.

6.2 Sizing on mixing tank

In mixing tank the components entering into the tank are oil, vodka and water. Since
the densities of the three components vary we have to take the average of them or the mixture.

Density of mixture can be determined as,

= (X oil * ) + (X vodka *

Density of =885 kg/m3

Molecular weight of =124kg/kmol

Density of vodka =789 kg/m3

Molecular weight of ethanol=46 kg/kmol

Density of water =1000 kg/m3

Molecular weight of water =18 kg/kmol

X oil

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X oil

X ethanol

X ethanol

X water

X H2O

So the density of the mixture becomes

Mixture= (X oil * ) + (X ethanol * H2O

Mixture =

Mixture and the total mass in the mixing tank is = mass of slurry=114
kg/batch

So, 114 kg

V=

So the capacity of distillation column when it is 80% full, its actual volume
becomes

V actual And the distillation column must be made from stainless steel.

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6.3 Sizing on liquor storage tank

The size of the liquor storage tank is similar with the volume of homogenizer except the
difference in safety factor. I.e. the storage is assumed to be 95% full. As a result

V storage is the actual volume of the storage tank.

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Chapter 7: Economic Evaluation of Perfume Production

7.1 Plant capacity and production program

7.1.1 Production capacity of the plant
From the statistical agency recent data the average increment from imported perfume in the
consecutive year was 2,380,989kg. Our interest will be to cover 10% of the annual average
increment value of imported perfume. Which is nearly 238,098kg or 238 tons of perfume is our
annual production.

7.1.2 Production Program

The program is scheduled based on the consideration that the envisaged plant will work 300 days
in a year in 6 shifts, where the remaining days will be holidays and for maintenance. During the
first year of operation the plant will operate at 75 percent capacity and then to 85% in the 2 nd
year. The capacity will grow to 100 percent starting from the 3 rd year. This consideration is
developed based on the assumption that market and logistics barriers would take place for the
first three years of operation.

7.2 Purchased equipment cost

The purchased equipment cost can be determined using the size of equipment that we calculate
before.

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Table 7.1: Purchased equipment cost

Equipment Quantity Purchasing cost(USD)
Mixer (locally) 1 4,200
Rotary cutter 1 5400
Steam distillation unit 1 12,400
Condenser 1 1,560
Pump 3 2,400.00
Storage tank 2 4,200
Boiler 1 25,000
Vacuum dryer 1 2,400.00
Separator 1 2,500.00
Cooling tower 1 5550
Filter 1 1200
Homogenizer 1 3,880
Total 70,690

Determination of total capital Investment (TCI)

From the relation, TCI= FCI+ WC

Table 7.2:Determination of total capital Investment (TCI)

Component Basis for estimation Cost ($)
Direct cost

Total PEC ………………………… 70,690

Installation 40% PEC 28,276.00

Instrumentation 30% PEC 21,207

Piping installed 15% PEC 10,603.50
Electrical installed 10% PEC 7,069.00

Building 20% PEC 14,138.00

Yard improvement 15%PEC 10,603.50

Service facilities 45%PEC 31,811

Land 20% PEC 14,138.00

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Total Direct Cost 208,536

Indirect cost

Engineering 25%PEC 17,672.50

Construction 35%PEC 24,742
Legal expense 8% PEC 5,655.20
Contractors fee 20% PEC 14,138.00
Contingency 35% PEC 24,742
Total indirect
86,949
cost
Fixed capital
(Direct cost) + (Indirect cost) 295,484
investment (FCI)
Working capital 15% TCI 52,144
Total capital
FCI + WC 347,628
Investment

The working capital cost in the table determined using the following relation

but,

7.3 Cost of raw materials

We perform the cost analysis based on annual basis. So batch and annual quantities of basic raw
materials, their unit and annual prices needed for our project is given in the table below.

We have 2000batch/yr used as a conversion factor between batch and annual calculation.

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Table 7.3: Cost of raw materials

Raw materials Quantities in Quantities Unit price Total price($)

(kg/batch) (kg/yr) ($/kg)

vodka 91.2 182,400 0.335 61,104

Essential oil 17.1 34,200 - Extracted

Distilled H2O 5.7 11,400 - Treated water

Base oils 1.2 2,400 18.29 43,896

Total 105,000

7.4 Determination of production cost

The total production cost of the plant includes the manufacturing cost and the general expenses.

Manufacturing cost also divided in to two direct and indirect manufacturing costs.

Table 7.4: Determination of production cost

Component Basis for estimation Cost ($)
Manufacturing cost

I Direct production cost

Raw materials 105,000

Operating labor 30% FCI 42,834.00
Direct supervision 32%PEC 22,620.80
Utilities

Process electricity
6% of cost of raw materials 6,300.00
Facility electricity
Maintenance and repair 45% of Fixed capital cost 132,967.80
Safety installed 15% FCI 44,322.60
Laboratory charges 20% of cost of labor 8,566.80
Total direct production cost 362,612
II Indirect costs

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A- Fixed charges

Depreciation 10% Fixed capital investment 29,548.40

Local tax 2% Fixed capital investment 5,909.68

Insurance 1% FCI 2,954.84

plant overhead cost 50% PEC 35,345.00

B – General expense

15%(direct supervision +
Administration 29,763.40
maintenance + labor)
Distribution and selling 5% Total production cost 27,066

R&D 5% Direct production cost 18,130.60

Advertisement Determined by our selves 30,000

Total indirect production

178,718
cost
(Direct production cost) +
Total production cost (TPC) 541,330
(Indirect production cost)

7.5 Financial Evaluation Breakeven Point

Annual production capacity=238.1tone/yr

Let X is breakeven point

Where, Total production cost (TPC) = 541,330 ($/yr)

Annual production capacity (APC) = 238.1 tone/yr

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This breakeven point is the cost that we sell our product without any profit and loss and by
analyzes the data available in Ethiopian Central Statistics Agency we can Estimate our selling
price. So, according to the available data Ethiopia import perfume from foreign countries with
average cost of 3.5($/kg). But our objective is to provide our product with 15% discount to our
customers. Which is our selling price is nearly 3.0($/kg).

7.6 Gross and net profit

Gross profit after depreciation can be estimated as follows.

We assume that our plant will depreciate after 10 year, based on this assumption depreciation can
be calculated as:

And our unit selling price is 3.0($/kg). But our annual production is 238,098kg/yr.

So
reve
nue
or

selling price

GP =

GP = $143,415.6

Net Profit (NP)

Net profit after tax can be calculated as:

Net profit (NP) = Gross profit (GP) – Income tax (I)

NP = GP –I

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To calculate income tax after depreciation we assume our tax rate is 35%.

I.e. Income tax (I) =35% GP = 0.35 * 143,415.6 =$50,195.46

Now 50,195.46

Rate on return (ROR)

Rate on return (ROR) is the annualized effective compounded return rate that can be earned on
the invested capital, i.e., the yield on the investment. It is an indicator of the efficiency or
quality of an investment.

That is, ROR=27%

Pay pack period

It is the time elapsed that the cumulative discounted cash flow repays the total capital
investment. It is the time to recover the total investment cost.

Payback period (PBP)

Which implies the total investment can be recovered within four

years.

Net present value (NPV)

It is the final discounted cumulative cash flow value at the project conclusion. It is the time value
of many, which can be calculated as follows.

But, CF n = Cash inflow (CF in) + Cash outflow (CF o)

We take our cash outflow is our total capital investment (TCI) which is CF o = $ and we
can calculate our cash inflow as follows.

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CFin but CF is equal with net profit, i.e. CF =

CF in

NPV where, n…..no of years, r….is tax rate which is

10%.

Which is positive and implies the project is acceptable.

Profitability index

, which is greater than one and implies the project is

acceptable.

7.7 Plant location

The location of the plant can have a crucial effect on the profitability of a project, and the scope
for future expansion. Many factors must be considered when selecting a suitable site.

1) The principal factors to be considered are:

2) Location, with respect to the marketing area.
3) Raw material supply.
4) Transport facilities.
5) Availability of labor.

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6) Availability of utilities: water, fuel, power etc

7) Availability of suitable land.
8) Environmental impact, and effluent disposal.
9) Local community considerations.
10) Climate.
11) Political and strategic considerations.
By considering the factors listed above we decide our plant will be located at Modjo, this enables
we can easily distribute our product to the capital city Addis Ababa. Also the temperature of
Modjo is comfortable for cultivating plants such as, rosemary, geranium and lemon grass since
they need hot environment to grow and the accessibility of water due to the presence of many
lakes also one factor for selecting Modjo is our plant location site.

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Chapter 8: Conclusion and Recommendation

8.1 Conclusion
The experiment was carried out for the extraction of essential oil lemon grass which has high
essential oil content, which was used for perfume formulation. Analyses carried out were to
determine the various oil yields using lemongrass as raw materials and the formulation of
perfume with the essential oil produced.

The experiment was run at different parameters condition in order to identify the most
optimum condition to obtain a maximum yield of essential oil. Two main operating parameters
affecting the water distillation method on extraction of essential oil from Lemongrass were
determined based on the maximum yield extracted from the plant materials and the
formulation of perfume with the essential oil produced. Based on the result, the optimum
condition for the lab scale solvent water distillation method was obtained at 100 minutes and at
temperature of 115°C. The characteristics of essential oil of the experimental results are, palest
yellow color, mobile liquid, lemongrass like odor and also the standard boiling point of essential
oil is 80-160°C and the boiling point of our product is 115.5°C.

From these three experiments sample two which contains 30% essential oil, 15% vanilla, 25%
frankincense, 20% distilled water and 10% vodka and is best based on the sensory evaluation.
Since the product is high volatile based on this the storage temperature has to be stored at room
temperature. As the base note ratio differs the result will also differ due to their highest
percentage of other notes.

Extraction of essential oils using water distillation can be used on industrial scale to make
various finished products which includes body oils, cosmetic lotions, baths, hair rinses, soaps,
perfumes and room sprays. The result of the data analysis shows that the plant would be
possible and profitable while supplying a good quality. It can also be seen that there is a
large gap between demand and supply of a good quality perfume in our country.

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8.2 Recommendation
Production of perfume is a simple mixing process but the challenge is extraction of essential oil
from different plant sources, since the yield obtained is too small because of the effect of various
process conditions. So we recommend that:

 Effective extraction technology should be designed.

 Process parameters such as flow rate, temperature and pressures should

be adjusted properly and yields should be compared in different
extraction technology.
 Effective separation unit such as vertical gravity separator should be used
to separate essential oil from hydrosol.
 There should be instruments in order to perform quality analysis. Such as:
quality of perfume, refractive index which measures the PH and so on.

In general, the formulation of perfume, the appropriate quantity of essential oil and other
fixatives should be ensured to avoid skin reaction and to increase its intensity. Based on our
economic analysis calculation production of perfume is the most feasible manufacturing process
due to availability of raw materials. So we would like to recommend manufacturers to invest on
perfume production for the sake of profitability and to reduce foreign currency that we lost by
importing perfumes. Also the government should play a great role by motivating the
manufacturers by giving land for cultivation of those plants used to produce perfumes.

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REFERENCES
1. Carles sell, 2006.the chemistry of fragrances from perfumer to consumer, 2 nd
Edition

2. Ernst J parry, 1920. The chemistry of Essential oils, 25-37,D.Van Nostrand

company

3. Chemical Engineering, Volume 2, Fourth edition Particle Technology and

Separation Processes

4. http//:www.Ethiopian revenue and custom authorities.org.et

5. www.conciseoxford dictionary 10 th edition

6. Fox news:ancient perfumes recreated; put on display in Rome.

7. Accessed June 23, 2007."Pelargonium graveolens".Plants for A Future..

8. Organic facts.com

9. Accessed June 23, 2007.USDA ARS NPGS. "Pelargonium graveolens

information from NPGS/GRIN". United States Department of Agriculture
(USDA), Agricultural Research Service (ARS), National Plant Germplasm
System (NPGS).
10. Accessed June 23, 2007. USDA NCRS. "PLANTS Profile for Pelargonium
graveolens (sweet scented geranium)".United States Department of Agriculture
(USDA), Natural Resources Conservation Service (NCRS), PLANTS Database.
11. Accessed June 23, 2007."Pelargonium incrassatum".Plants for A Future..

12. Handbook on cosmetic industries (herbal &synthetic)-SIRI board

13. McMurry, Fundamentals of organic chemistry,

14. Robert.traybal, Mass transfer unit operations

15. Aroma plantea, civet, pheromones, Animalia, perfume sources from plants and
animals.

16. Luca Turin, 2006, The secret of fragrance

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17. J. Jeffrey Peirce, P. Aarne Vesilind, Ruth F. Weiner. Environmental Pollution

and Control, 4th ed.

18. By Ruth F. Weiner and Robin Matthews. Environmental pollution and

treatment

19. https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/chem_background/exsumpdf/lemonlimeoil
s_508.pdf

20. J M Coulson and J F Richardson, 1999, Coulson and Richardson‟s chemical

engineering,

21. Burr, chandler (2008). The perfect scent.

22. DonW.Green and Robert H.Perry, 2008, McGraw Hill, 8th edition. Perry‟s
chemical engineering handbook,

23. Richard M.Flder and Ronaldo W.Roussau, 3td edition. Elementary principles
of chemical process
24. Max S. Peters and Klaus D. Timmerhaus, 1991, McGraw Hill, 4 th edition.
Plant design and economics for chemical Engineers

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APPENDIX

Fig1 mixing process of our product

Fig 2 weight grinded raw material

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