International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010, 32, 304–312
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on
improvement in stratum corneum water permeability
barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion
stress test
G. Pennick*, S. Harrison*, D. Jones* and A.V. Rawlings 
*Croda Consumer Care Europe, Goole, East Yorkshire, U.K. and  AVR Consulting Ltd, Northwich, Cheshire, U.K.
Received 2 February 2010, Accepted 23 April 2010
Keywords: barrier, ceramides, isostearyl isostearate, orthorhombic, stratum corneum
Synopsis
Dry skin is a major dermatological problem and
consumer research indicates that although current
moisturizers are effective they are not completely
meeting consumer expectation. Several technologi-
cal approaches have been taken but influencing
stratum corneum (SC) lipid phase behaviour as a
novel water permeability barrier-enhancing and
moisturizing mechanism has only been started to
be investigated recently. Both the long periodicity
SC lipid lamellar phase and the orthorhombic lipid
packing state have been proposed to define optimal
SC water permeability barrier properties. Several
lipophillic moisturizers have been tested for their
ability to modify SC lipid lateral packing namely
glyceryl monoisostearate (GMIS), isopropyl isostea-
rate (IPIS) and isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) of
which IPIS and ISIS are reported to induce the
orthorhombic phase. Despite the improvements in
the lateral packing of SC lipids, these ingredients
have been shown not to improve transepidermal
water loss. However, using a novel skin surface
water loss method we have observed for the first
time significant improvements in SC water perme-
ability barrier function for ISIS compared with
IPIS, GMIS and petrolatum. However, using syn-
thetic membranes and measuring water vapour
Correspondence: Graham Pennick, Croda Consumer Care
Europe, Cowick Hall Snaith, Goole East Yorkshire, DN14
9AA, U.K. Tel.: +44 (0) 1405 860551; fax: +44
(0)1405 861767; e-mail: graham.pennick@croda.com
304 ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00604.
transport rates we showed that the isostearyl
esters were not occlusive like petrolatum. As the
effects of ISIS were not because of what would be
considered as true occlusion, we propose that the
differences in the SC water permeability barrier
properties from use of ISIS to the other ingredients
tested are because of its reported effects on SC lipid
phase behaviour. Further studies probably using
spectroscopic approaches, however, will be needed
to specifically test this hypothesis in vivo.
Introduction
Dry skin is a very common cosmetic problem and
recent surveys in Japan, America and France have
shown that as much as 40% of the population per-
ceive themselves to have a dry skin problem [1].
Equally, Matts et al. [2] have reported that dry
body skin is the number one unmet skincare need
in the U.S.A., U.K., Germany and China. In terms
of consumer habits to alleviate the condition Ertel
et al. [3] have reported that at least 85% of con-
sumers in the U.S.A. apply a body moisturizer and
more than half apply it once per day. However,
there are differences in use conditions around the
world. For instance, Fotoh et al. [4] reported that
Caucasians largely apply moisturizers for pleasure
whereas subjects with darker skin do this out of
necessity to combat skin dryness. In fact in that
study greater than 92% of subjects with a mixed
racial background, compared with only 16% of
Caucasians, applied a moisturizer daily. Clearly,
ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate
good moisturization is key for optimal stratum cor-
neum (SC) functioning and for the relief of dry
skin. Dry skin treatments can therefore be traced
back to 3000BC [2]. Nevertheless, despite even
21st century cosmetic science the consumer
research would suggest that we are still not com-
pletely meeting consumer needs for this condition.
Several years ago one of the current authors [5]
summarized, from a current understanding of the
compositional changes in dry skin, the aspects of
SC lipid biochemistry that need to be corrected.
One of these routes related to the use of long
chain fatty acids. As long chain fatty acids are
reduced in SLS-induced dry skin and these lipids
are important for inducing an orthorhombic lat-
eral packing state, the tightest possible barrier (see
below), it was proposed that these need to be sup-
plied to the skin to effectively correct barrier func-
tion. Nevertheless, these are expensive ingredients.
Clearly the treatment of dry skin is complex and
is probably one of the reasons why we still do not
fully meet consumer expectation. The work pre-
sented in this article focuses on the effects of isos-
tearyl esters on SC water permeability barrier
function as a new inexpensive technology which is
believed to be operating via its effects on influenc-
ing lipid phase behaviour.
Electron microscopy originally identified the
unusual lamellar packing of SC lipids [6] which
was further refined in X-Ray diffraction studies
[7]. Several models of the lipid packing states
have been proposed such as the stacked mono-
layer model [8], the domain mosaic model [9],
the single gel phase model [10], the armature
reinforcement model [11] and the ‘sandwich’ lipid
model proposed by Bouwstra et al. [12] This latter
model was proposed to take into account both
the periodicity frequencies in lamellar packing
that had been observed, the long periodicity
phase (LPP) and short periodicity phase (SPP),
together with the presence of a fluid phase. The
presence of the LPP is critical for permeability
barrier function.
It has been known for a long time that the
expected SC lipid lamellar phase is missing from
the outer layers of the SC, even in healthy skin
when examining tape strippings by electron
microscopy [13, 14] but other structural changes
are now known to occur. The most tightly packed
lipid barrier is known as the orthorhombically
packed state [7, 12]. The presence of long chain
fatty acids is needed to induce the formation of the
ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation
ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 304–312
G. Pennick et al.
orthorhombic lattice in ceramide & cholesterol
mixtures [15]. The orthorhombic packing together
with the presence of the LPP defines ultimate lipid
barrier functionality. However, a transition to a
less tightly packed hexagonal phase is reported to
occur towards the surface of the SC [16]. Lipids in
a hexagonal lateral packing state possess weaker
water permeability barrier characteristics than
those in an orthorhombic phase. This orthorhom-
bic to hexagonal phase transition can be induced
by sebum lipids and especially by shorter chain
length fatty acids resulting in greater hexagonal
lipid phases in the upper layers of the SC [17]. The
importance of the lateral packing of intercellular
lipids has become of interest over the last decade
especially as higher levels of hexagonally packed
lipids are found in the SC of subjects with atopic
dermatitis compared with normal subjects [18].
Nonetheless, the orthomobically packed state is
still present.
Recently, Joke Bouwstra and her teams have
been elucidating the effects of hydrophilic and
lipophillic moisturizing ingredients on the SC
[19–22]. Using cryo-scanning electron micros-
copy they have been following the swelling char-
acteristics of these different moisturizers on the
SC and from the effects of the lipophillic moistur-
izers examined, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS)
behaved very much like petrolatum compared
with isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glyceryl mo-
noisostearate (GMIS) [19]. However, addition of
ISIS & IPIS but not GMIS was later shown to
increase the thermotropic stability of the ortho-
rhombic lateral packing when added to equimo-
lar ceramide: cholesterol: fatty acid mixtures
[21]. Conversely, all three lipids influenced the
lamellar packing states of the SC lipids to varying
degrees. Subtle changes in the peak height distri-
butions of the ‘‘2nd and 3rd order peak height
distributions of sprayed lipid/moisturizer mixtures
as examined by small angle X-ray diffraction
[22]. The SPP was not detectable. Moreover,
analysis of immersed SC samples with the respec-
tive moisturizers revealed that only in the ISIS-
treated SC was the 1st order peak of the LPP
stronger. Clearly these changes in the lipid pack-
ing states should have dramatic effects on SC
water permeability barrier function. However,
very surprisingly this was not observed in vivo as
measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
[20]. As greater amounts of the hexagonally
packed lipids are present in the outermost layers
305
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate
of the SC compared with its inner layers and to
demonstrate the benefits of purported orthorhom-
bic lipid inducing agents, we decided to use a dif-
ferent approach by using the plastic occlusion
stress test (POST) [23]. In POST, the SC is
hydrated under a plastic chamber (or any occlu-
sive device) ideally for 24 h to give the best dis-
criminative power. When the occlusion is
removed, the excess water evaporates which has
been called skin surface water loss (SSWL). POST
gives information on SC hydration, integrity of
barrier function especially in the outer layers of
the SC and SC water-holding capacity. In its sim-
plest use the area under the curve for SSWL is
computed for a defined time on returning to
basal TEWL levels. Naturally, if the barrier is
more robust less water will evaporate from the
skin surface during the SSWL evaporative phase.
Thus, emollients that are capable of inducing the
hexagonal to orthorhombic phase transition in
the outer layers of the SC will produce a lower
SC SSWL. Equally, to demonstrate that the esters
used were not traditional occlusive agents we
determined their water vapour transmission rate
(WVTR) using in vitro standard methods [24].
Materials and methods
In vitro methods
WVTR measurements
WVTR was measured using a similar approach to
Rawlings et al. [24]. Testing was carried out in a
controlled humidity room, 50%RH ± 5% and
20C ± 1C. A uniform film (5 · 6 cm) of test
ingredient was drawn down onto a section
(8 · 6 cm) of Vitro-Skin (IMS Inc., Portland ME,
U.S.A.) using a draw down bar (Sheen bird type
applicator) with a 200 micron gap size and
impression bed (Sheen Instruments Ltd., Surrey,
England). To insure a uniform film thickness
between test ingredients, each section of Vitro-Skin
was weighed before and after application of the
film, average film deposition weight was
5.48 mg cm)2 ± 0.21. The Vitro-Skin was then
attached to a WVTR chamber containing 5 mL of
water and allowed to equilibrate for 1 h prior to
testing. The WVTR was then determined gravimet-
rically using a five point balance (AB135-S Met-
tler-Toledo Ltd., Leicester, England) by weighing at
the beginning of the experiment (Wo) and after
3 h (W3).
ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
306
G. Pennick et al.
WVTRðg m2 h1 Þ ¼ water loss (g)ðW0  W3 Þ=
area of membraneðm2 Þ  time (h)
Clinical Studies
Subjects
Studies were approved by the Croda Safety and
Regulatory group. All studies complied with the
Guidelines for Medical Experiments in non-patient
human volunteers published by the Association of
the British Pharmaceutical Industry (ABPI) and
the World Medical Association’s Declaration of
Helsinki (2000) concerning biomedical research
involving human subjects. Each subject received
written informed consent and a copy of the ingre-
dient list. The subjects were instructed not to use
any cosmetic products on their forearms for
2 weeks prior to and for the entire study duration.
SSWL measurements
SSWL measurements were made using a modified
procedure of Beradesca and Maibach [23]. Each
study was performed on both male and female
Caucasian subjects and one Asian male subject.
Test areas were marked using a template for
12 mm Finn chambers (Bio-diagnostics, Worces-
ter, U.K.) after which the panellists were acclima-
tized for 20 min in a humidity and temperature
controlled room (50%RH ± 5% and 20C ± 1C).
Following acclimatization, basal measurements of
TEWL were taken for all test sites using the Aqua
Flux (Biox Ltd, London, U.K.). Neat ingredients
(petrolatum, GMIS, IPIS, ISIS) were applied at
either 0.25 mg cm)2, 0.5 mg cm)2, 1.0 mg cm)2
or 2.0 mg cm)2 using a pipette (Finnpipette P.C.R
0.5–25 lL, Thermo Labsystems, Vantaa, Finland)
and massaged into the defined area using a finger
cott. We assumed that a similar amount of residue
was present on the finger cott for all emollients.
Twenty four hours following neat oil application
an occlusive patch was applied to each of the test
sites, including the untreated control site, for
24 h. The patch was then removed and any visible
surface water dapped away using a clean dry tis-
sue. TEWL measurements were taken every 2 s
following maximum TEWL. Routinely this was for
300 s although the first experiment was conducted
over 30 min. Taking the baseline values of each
panellist into account the area under the curve
(AUC) was calculated between the points of maxi-
mal TEWL to 300 s i.e. only the SSWL, the
ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 304–312
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate
increase in TEWL over basal TEWL, was integrated
for the AUC measurements. SSWL was recorded
for 300 s to allow its recovery to basal TEWL lev-
els after which the AUC was calculated in Micro-
soft Excel.
A number of separate studies were undertaken
to examine the effects of the test ingredients. In the
initial study, 2 mg cm)2 of the test ingredients
(ISIS, IPIS, GMIS and petrolatum) was applied neat
and SSWL (AUC) measurements taken every 5 min
for 30 min. In subsequent studies SSWL (AUC)
measurements for the initial 300 s were used to
compare between test ingredients applied neat.
IPIS, petrolatum and ISIS applied at 2 mg cm)2
were compared against a control (occlusive patch
only). Then a dose response comparison of ISIS to
petrolatum was performed (0.5, 1.0 & 2.0 mg
cm)2) and finally ISIS was compared to petrolatum
applied at 0.25 mg cm)2 over 3 days.
Statistical analysis
All data were collected and processed in Microsoft
Excel 2003 before transferring to GraphPad prism
for statistical analysis (5.00 for Windows, graph-
Pad Software, San Diego, CA, U.S.A.). Data were
checked for normality using the D’Agostino and
Pearson omnibus normality test; then ANOVA-
tests with subsequent post-hoc comparisons were
made using the Bonferroni test. Statistical signifi-
cance was set at 95%.
Results
WVTR results
The WVTR gave an insight into the occlusive
properties of the test ingredients. As can be seen
in Fig. 1 ISIS and IPIS both had significantly
higher WVTR values and were therefore less
occlusive in comparison with petrolatum
(P < 0.01).
SSWL results
A time course of SSWL was initially performed on
eight subjects (four men and four women) for
30 min comparing petrolatum, GMIS, IPIS, ISIS
(Fig. 2). As can be seen most of the product dis-
crimination on SSWL occurred within the first
300 s, but it was instantly clear that GMIS was
the least effective emollient in this test (P < 0.03
ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 304–312
G. Pennick et al.
Figure 1 Comparison of the effects of isostearyl isostea-
rate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and petrolatum
(PJ) on the water vapour transmission rate (WVTR)
across a synthetic membrane. Petrolatum was signifi-
cantly superior in its occlusive properties than the isoste-
aryl esters (P < 0.01).
compared with ISIS and P < 0.001 compared with
petrolatum). IPIS appeared to be behaving similar
to petrolatum whereas ISIS was the better per-
forming emollient.
Examining the early time course (300 s) of
SSWL on 11 subjects (seven men and four
women) it can be seen from Fig. 3 that IPIS actu-
ally offered no benefit over the control. Petrolatum
was marginally but not significantly more effec-
tive. ISIS was significantly superior to both treat-
ments and the control site in reducing SSWL
(P < 0.001 to petrolatum and P < 0.0001 to IPIS
and control). Furthermore, when comparing differ-
ent concentrations of ISIS and petrolatum (0.5,
1.0 and 2.0 mg application of neat emollients) on
11 subjects (2 mg cm)2: six male Caucasians and
one Asian and four female Caucasians;
1 mg cm)2: four male Caucasian and one Asian
male and eight female Caucasians; 0.5 mg cm)2:
three male Caucasian and seven female Caucasian
subjects) a very good dose response was observed
of increasing efficacy of ISIS to petrolatum (Fig. 4;
the delta values of SSWL were calculated between
the two ingredients). This difference was still
achieved using more realistic doses of the neat
ingredient applied over a 3 day period (Fig. 5; ISIS
better than petrolatum P < 0.05).
Discussion
Optimizing lipid structure/functionality is obvi-
ously a key route for moisturizing treatments and
improving barrier function [5, 25]. Previously, this
307
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate G. Pennick et al.

100
90
ISIS
80 IPIS
GMIS Figure 2 Time course comparison
TEWL (g m–2 h–1)

70 PJ of transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

60 following plastic occlusion stress test
50 (POST) of glyceryl monoisostearate
40 (GMIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS),
30
isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) and pet-
rolatum (PJ) applied at 2 mg cm)2.
20
GMIS is significantly inferior to the
10
other emollients (P < 0.03 com-
0 pared with ISIS and P < 0.001
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
Time (min) compared with petrolatum).

Figure 4 Dose response comparison of skin surface

Figure 3 Comparison of skin surface water loss (SSWL)
water loss (SSWL) area under the curve (AUC) of isostea-
area under the curve (AUC) of isopropyl isostearate
ryl isostearate (ISIS) to petrolatum (PJ). Delta SSWL was
(IPIS), isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) and petrolatum (PJ)
calculated between the ISIS and petrolatum values. ISIS
applied at 2 mg cm)2. ISIS is significantly superior to
is significantly superior to petrolatum at all dose levels
petrolatum (P < 0.001) and IPIS and control
(0.5 mg cm)2, 1 mg cm)2 and 2 mg cm)2).
(P < 0.0001).

has been achieved through application of cera-
mides [26, 27], pseudoceramides [28, 29] and
phospholipids [30] or their mixtures [31]. These
long chain lipids in cosmetic emulsions are more
likely to remain on the surface of the SC and form
their own lamellar-ordered lipid state dictated by
their own chemistry rather than penetrate into
the SC [32].
The importance of the lateral packing of inter-
cellular lipids has become of interest over the last
decade especially as the content of hexagonally
packed lipids is higher in the SC of subjects with
atopic dermatitis compared with normal skin.
Nonetheless, the orthorhombic phase is still pres-
ent. Atopic subjects also have a reduced LPP phase
as a result of their lowered levels of CER EOS lino-
leate [33–37]. Nothing as yet is known of the lat-
eral packing states of SC lipids in subjects with
cosmetic dry skin, but as examined by electron
microscopy clearly, abnormally packed lipids are
present in the outer layers of the SC [13, 14]. It is
also known that in subjects with dry skin who
have no LPP phase that they also have lowered
CER EOS and CER EOH levels [38].
Nevertheless, the packing of the lipids in the
outer layers of the SC in subjects with even clini-
cally normal appearing skin appears to lack lamel-
lar order as judged from electron microscopy of
tape strippings of the SC [13, 14] whereas other
studies have shown an increased presence of hex-
agonally packed SC lipids in the surface layers of
the SC in normal subjects [17, 18]. Most recently,
Damien and Boncheva [39] have demonstrated
that a direct correlation exists between orthorhom-
bical lipid phases and a lower TEWL in healthy
forearm skin. Presumably, less LPP also occurs in

ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation

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308 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 304–312
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate
Figure 5 Comparison of skin surface water loss (SSWL)
area under the curve (AUC) of isostearyl isostearate
(ISIS) and petrolatum (PJ) applied at 0.25 mg cm)2 over
3 days. ISIS is significantly superior to petrolatum
(P < 0.05).
the outer layers of the skin. Indeed, it is known
that hydrolysis of CER EOS linoleate, one of the
most important lipids for forming the LPP, occurs
in the SC [40].
To date only long acylceramides are known to
induce the LPP phase in native human SC lipids
[41]. However, in limited mixtures of synthetic
ceramides (CER EOS, NP, NS, AP) the addition of
fatty acids are still needed to induce the LPP [41].
Clearly, however, understanding the effects of
ingredients that can also influence the hexagonal-
orthorhombic lipid phase transition could be a
novel approach to moisturization. Indeed, Caussin
et al. [19–22] have clearly demonstrated the effects
of the interaction of lipophillic moisturizers on lipid
phase organization and SC moisturization ex vivo.
However, in one small scale study on four subjects
the authors found no effect on TEWL [20]. Never-
theless, from this study one might question the rel-
evance of changes the lateral packing states of the
SC and its water permeability characteristics. The
purpose of our study was to evaluate the effect of
the four lipophillic moisturizers tested in the Caus-
sin et al. [19–22] studies on SC water permeability
barrier properties in the outermost layers of the SC
rather than the total SC by using the POST. Defin-
ing their activities clinically may help to resolve
the importance of the purported effects of these
emollients ex vivo [19–22].
As in normal healthy SC, the hexagonally
packed lipid phase is present in larger quantities in
the outer layers of the SC [17, 18, 39] we felt that
conventional TEWL measurements that are an
average of the barrier properties of the total thick-
ª 2010 Croda Europe Ltd. Journal compilation
ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32, 304–312
G. Pennick et al.
ness of SC would not be sensitive enough to detect
improvements in SC barrier properties from
agents that are known to induce the hexagonal to
orthorhombic transition. As a result we chose to
use the SSWL approach taken by Rietschel [42]
and Wilson et al. [43] but using the POST method
[23, 41–47]. SSWL equals basal TEWL plus
additional water that is accumulated during occlu-
sion or after product application. Computing the
AUC allows a measure of the water handling
properties of the SC and naturally if less water is
lost then the water permeability barrier is more
robust.
When investigating the effects of moisturizers
using the SSWL method, investigators generally
wipe of the ingredients/emulsions. We felt that this
could suffer from reproducibility issues as a result
of the differences in substantivity of the ingredients
being used (e.g. ISIS is more substantive to the SC
than IPIS, unpublished results) and we chose to
use the non-wipe method of Watkinson et al. [48]
where a reduction of SSWL is observed if the
ingredient has occlusive or water permeability bar-
rier-enhancing properties.
Using this method we have clearly shown that
ISIS is superior in its water permeability barrier-
inducing properties compared with the other
isostearyl esters tested and it is in fact superior to
petrolatum. As we were able to demonstrate that
ISIS was not an occlusive like petrolatum in the
WVTR studies, and only marginally more occlu-
sive than IPIS, ISIS must be improving SC water
permeability barrier properties by other means.
The ex vivo studies conducted by others on these
ingredients indicated that they have the capability
of influencing SC lipid phases [20–22]. However,
of GMIS, IPIS & ISIS only ISIS seems to possess
some moisturizing effects based upon ‘occlusivity’
i.e. only this ingredient seemed to increased SC
moisturization similar to petrolatum in the cryo-
scanning electron microscopy experiments [19].
Equally, of the three isostearyl esters only ISIS had
an effect on both the hexagonal to orthorhombic
transition and influenced the LPP, the latter being
on ex vivo SC [20, 21]. From these results we
hypothesize that ISIS is modulating SC lipid phases
in vivo and delivering the improvement in SC
water permeability barrier function in the current
studies.
Wiechers and Barlow [49] had previously
investigated many emollients, including the four
tested in these studies, for their effects on
309
Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate
moisturization measured using a corneometer
after wiping off the emollient after a defined per-
iod of time. The removal of the emollient is nec-
essary as oils can act as insulators and reduce
capacitance readings. However, we have found
differences in the removal of these emollients
because of substantivity that can thereby give
erroneous capacitance results (unpublished data)
and could explain the differences in performance
between our own results and those reported
above. However, Wiechers et al. [50] more
recently in limited studies found no differences in
the moisturizing effects between IPIS and ISIS
using near infrared spectroscopy in a small scale
study. Equally, Caussin et al. [22] could find no
differences in moisturization performance. Clearly
more data are needed to substantiate these results
but based upon improving SC water permeability
barrier function as judged by POST ISIS is clearly
the best ingredient. We believe that ISIS, com-
pared with the other esters, functions most effec-
tively in vivo as it is clearly incorporated into the
LPP but it has no detrimental effect on the lamel-
lar ordering while increasing the thermotropic
stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing at
the same time. Further in vivo studies will be
needed to test this hypothesis precisely e.g. in vivo
confocal Raman or ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. How-
ever, this is the first study to our knowledge that
demonstrates the positive improvements in the SC
water permeability barrier by using an agent that
is reported to influence the lateral packing of the
SC lipids although not affecting the lamellar long
periodicity phase.
In summary, we have observed significant
improvements in SC water permeability barrier
function for ISIS compared with IPIS, GMIS and
petrolatum using a novel SSWL method (POST).
The effects of ISIS are not because of what
would be considered as true occlusion as petrola-
tum was shown to be vastly superior to ISIS in
WVTR studies. We propose that the improve-
ments in the SC water permeability barrier prop-
erties as measured by POST from use of ISIS is
because of its reported effects on SC lipid phase
behaviour.
Acknowledgements
This study was fully funded by Croda Consumer
Care Europe.
ª 2010 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
310
G. Pennick et al.
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