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Watch Escapement Desk Toy Download All Files

by LarkysPrints January 18, 2019

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velvetsanity
August 01, 2022
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Add two more gears to the train, and get everything to the correct gear ratios, and you'd only need the motion works,
dial, and hands to have a complete clock

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ianpan5083
June 23, 2022

Hi love, love your design! I am an ECPI University mechatronics engineering student and I would love to build this. My
school has a final project this term and I was considering approaching this for an assembly. Years ago I did the basic
train assembly in inventor. I don't know if it would be inappropriate, if you would be willing to share your dimensions so
I could attempt to recreate it. Awesome design either way! :)

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truong0vanchien
May 21, 2022

Hi thanks Mate. I had to struggle a little bit on balance wheel. The balance part, the hairspring part and the impact pin
housing part should be printed in 100% infill. Also I suggest using the remix the pallet fork which is more reliable on the
origin.

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mk53
March 23, 2022
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Thanks for this. I made one and it runs. A bit.

As I could not find 60mm M4 I used 60&50mm M5. Had to drill some of the holes a bit bigger.

Just want to mention that it works with this change also.

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Vinnygoodstuff
March 23, 2022

Thank you for posting this. It is truly an amazing!! The design, the schematics, the list of necessary parts, post printing
comments........it all great! I cannot imaging how many spring and coil designs it took to get this right. My printed model
works great. I gave it two minor tweaks not even worth mentioning and it works perfect and runs for a surprisingly long
amount of time. BTW, after this experience, you have sold me on using metric bolts. So much simpler. Thanks again.
Much appreciated!!

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MrLunk
March 11, 2022

Hello all :)

Has anyone tried to make a miniature of this perhaps ?

Im trying a 33% model today...

Some changes... to make 33.33% assembly a lot easier ;)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5296566/files

I combined the side parts and added a base.

PL
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Xyloph
October 29, 2021

Great model! I didn't have M3 and M4 stuff so I replaced it with #4-40 and #8-32. The fork needed a bit of love (cutting)
because it grabbed too much to move freely if the spring is loaded too much. I drilled all the hole a bit bigger and
melted the nuts with a lighter before inserting them into the holes (since the holes are smaller than the #8 and #4 nuts).
Also, I think my hairspring (the one of the right) is not filled enough so I might try to print one a bit heavier.

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Digitalpaul
July 05, 2021

I have been 3D printing for many years, I have always wanted to make a clock saw this as a good learning piece while
stuck at home with COVID lockdown. Boy what a lot of fun this is, this set of parts is very well done, the drawings are
excellent. At this moment I have only completed the main spring section I used PLA for the main parts and PETG for the
spring parts. So far I have found the tolerances perfect it has simply printed and gone together. What a joy to build,
great job setting this up. Thank you.

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Gerald-H
June 17, 2021
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I am new to 3D printing just 5 months so I am still learning this was the first thing I printed it worked first time I am so
pleased.

My printer is a Creality Ender 5 plus.

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malcolmgiles
June 06, 2021

Has anyone else had problems printing the escape barrel.stl file? It’s much bigger than all the other .stl files, despite
being of a similar size and complexity. I suspect this file is corrupt. have I got this wrong? Thanks

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MaxLeDude
June 05, 2021

Does the mainspring deform at all?

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malcolmgiles
May 31, 2021

what size nozzle, please?

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C l l
 Colral
April 21, 2021 Explore Education Create Sign Up

This was an excellent project. It worked exactly as built, with no modifications needed. I think it deserves a varnished
wooden base.

Thanks for your time and effort.

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MattyDredge
March 21, 2021

It worked pretty much straight off the printer for me, just a 30 second rub on some 400 grade wet n dry on the part of
the impact pin housing that contacts the pallet fork. Only modification was to remove the washer from behind the nut
on the gear train so the escape wheel didn't hit the nut. Obviously a bit of adjustment required of the pallet fork range
pins and impact pin angle to get it running smoothly but it then ran perfectly. With a squirt of silicone spray on the pivot
points and it runs even better. I decided to upgrade to a PETG main spring and it now runs 60% longer although I'm
sure it would run alot longer if I wound it up more than one single turn but I'm happy without pushing it to breaking
point.

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Jameswis
March 03, 2021

This design is very flawed. Requires a TON of tinkering and printed in Silk PLA, it doesn't work for S**T... Most people on
here talk about modifying the pallet fork and escape setup, but IDK what to modify and I'm not wasting anymore time
on this. BAD DESIGN!!! Most items I get off thingiverse either work right away or just don't print well. This prints great,
but the specs are all wrong imo.. I guess that's why there are 22 remixes. Lol...

Also, the base setup is VERY weak and causes it to flex like crazy which makes the main spring and gear slip.. it really
needs a brace length wise down both sides near the top.. and the fork fix.. Whatever that involves...

Wasted Silk Filament... Also, the bottom bracket snapped in 1/2 while I was trying an attempt at making it run with all
 , pp / y g p g
the stock parts. :(
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JoaquinDillen
January 30, 2021

Great Design!! Amazing work!!

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tplummer
November 28, 2020

This is a good kit. I used #8 hardware throughout and some smaller misc screws. I had to fix a serious defect in the pallet
fork spacing to the escape wheel, it is too far away from the wheel and crashes the pallet faces into the wheel teeth
instead of resting on the pallet sides. Now this will tick tock unchanged but is extremely rough and sounds like it is
tearing itself apart. So..... elongate the pallet fork mounting bracket screw holes, I just used a saw to cut a slot from each
end and file about 1/16 inch of the bottom away. The point is to move the bracket towards the escape wheel about 1/16
inch.

Now this will also effect the impulse pin fit to the fork but not critically. To test, wind a little and very slowly move the
balance wheel while watching the pallets engage the escape wheel. The moment a pallet is released the escape wheel
should jump and rest ON THE SIDE of the other pallet. The banking pins I found useless and set them wide. Also the
small click and spring may be tossed, they dont do anything. As a teaching tool and fun project this is a good one. Also
#8 nuts may be seated in existing too small nut holes by heating with a torch or cigarette lighter and pushing flush. This
melts the PLA and seats the nut very well. To keep it aligned use a long #8 screw to guide the hot nut into the hole with
the shaft in the screw hole. This work great and keeps cost down. Common sense gets the rest done.

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lukabrazi
July 25, 2020
My escape wheel hits the locknut on the gear train. Anyone else have this problem?
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Also my barrel ratchet isn't pulled tight enough to the spring barrel to catch. I printed the barrel spring with 100% infill
using Inland PLA +.

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Bender297
June 25, 2020

I just made this. First mistake I made was to buy partially threaded fasteners, which is standard at these lengths for
socket head cap screws. Make sure you get philips head or flat head screws to get the full thread length. Mine runs for
about 4 minutes. I printed the re-mix hairspring 6mm, but all it does is make the mechanism run faster, not longer. The
issue for me is the pallet fork binding on the upper prong. I will try the re-mix pallet fork and see the difference.

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