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Easy Box Joints (Adjustable Tooth Widths)
By Make_Things (/member/Make_Things/) in Workshop (/workshop/) > Tools (/workshop/tools/projects/) 1,929 18 Featured

Published May 26th, 2020 Download Favorite

Easy Box Joint Jig // The Most Versatile Box Joint Jig!
(https://content instructables com/F7F/78FQ/KAPPEYTB/F7F78FQKAPPEYTB LARGE jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&width=1024&fit=bounds)

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By Make_Things
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Box joints jigs are one of those types of jigs that have been circling the internet for years. I've
seen large box joint jigs with extremely complicated plans (I even purchased and made that
one!) as well as thin blade kerf jigs that everyone seems to think they've invented. There are so
many di erent types of box joint jigs, how do you choose the one that will always work and
doesn't take up a lot of space?

I'm going to show you my approach to these strong, durable, beautiful joints and we're only
going to use 2 power tools. One, of course, will be your table saw. The other? A drill. And the cost
of this jig? We're going to keep it below $20. Yes, $20*!

If that isn't enough to get your undershorts in a knot, I'm also going to promise that even the
basic of woodworkers that have those two power tools and some basic other woodworking
things (and $20) can put this jig together. I can also promise that you will feel like a million bucks
after you make your rst box and show it o to the world!

*Of course, I don't know where you reside, but here in the midwest, I created this simple jig for
less than $20.

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Step 1: Gather Materials / Tools Needed and Used

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Material List

3/8"-16x24" Threaded rod

(3) 3/8"-16 Nuts
(5) 3/8" (it needs to t on the threaded rod) Washers
3/8" Brad t-nut
3/8" Pronged t-nut
1/4"x4" Carriage bolt
(2) 1/4" Nuts
(2) 1/4" Washers
 If you're using a miter gauge instead of a sled
a. (2) *1/4"x2 1/2" Bolts
b. (2) *1/4" (needs to t on the 1/4" bolts) washers
c. (2) *1/4" Wing Nuts (or knurled thumbscrews)

2x6x24" Construction grade lumber

1x4x20" Pine board
Wood glue
Epoxy
Sandpaper
Masking tape

Tools Needed and Used

Table saw
Drill
1/4", 1/8" Drill bit
3/8", 1/2" Forstner bit
5/8" Forstner bit (not really needed, but only if using a miter gauge)
Ruler / Tape measure
If using your own sled: (2) Bar clamps
The Advanced version uses a Bandsaw (absolutely not necessary for the main build)

*(Or whatever will t inside your miter gauge holes)

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Step 2: Figuring Out Our Jig Size

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First and foremost, let's decide how you're going to use this jig. Will you use the jig with a miter
gauge or with a table saw sled? If you're going to use a miter gauge, the 2x6x24" will be just ne.
If we're going to use a table saw sled that you've already built, we'll want to make it the length of
the front fence. And since it's going to clamp on to the front fence, we'll want it to be exactly the
same size so that the clamps will...obviously t on either side and...clamp.

How it will be connected. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=55)

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Step 3: Making a Dado

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Now we'll make a dado that your box joint mechanism will be housed in. This dado will be 1"
squared. As mentioned, we'll be using a 6 1/2" wide piece of construction lumber. We'll need to
set our blade 1" high o the table as well as 2 and 1/2" away from the table saw fence.

We'll make our rst cut and then move the table saw fence about a 1/16" closer to the blade.
We'll run the 2x6 through again, and move the blade closer, repeating the process until we've
cut out a 1" gap in our construction lumber.

I've left an image in this step that'll show the dimensions after we are done cutting, and a link
below to show me doing this step. Twofer!@!

Dado makin'. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=65)

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Step 4: Cutting the Kerf, Optionally Attaching to a Miter Gauge

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If using a sled:

In this step we'll make the kerf for our jig. This kerf is what we'll use to align our jig to our sled
before we make those beautiful box joints. And it's a pretty simple step.

We'll put our newly cut 2x6 with the 3" lower half pointed down against our fence and clamp
both sides with bar clamps. Raise the blade about an inch from the top of the sled and run it
through the blade.

If using a miter gauge:

If you haven't made a sled yet for your table saw, this part of this step is just for you. I will assume
you have a miter gauge, as they come with every table saw I've ever seen. You also won't need
to use clamps, but will need to use a couple 1/4"* bolts and a couple 1/4" wing nuts*, or knurled
thumbscrews (which I'll be using). The length of your bolts will need to be determined by you as
you measure the thickness of the board you're using and your miter gauge. Since my plans call
for a 2x6, and the kiln dried specs of a 2x6 are actually 1 1/2" x 5 1/2", and the metal fence on a
normal miter gauge is no more than an 1/8", adding a thumbscrew or wing nut should leave you
needing (2) 2 1/2" bolt.

First you'll want to line up your board so that your left edge is at least 13” from the center of the
blade. I used a sharpie marker to color the tips of my bolt, before pressing the bolt in and
marking my board, like a stamp. Once it's done, you can see the outline of the bolt on the wood.
If not, you might have to do it a few times. Use a brad point bit the size of your bolt and mark
where just the point protrudes, using tape on the drill bit as a depth gauge. Drill down to the
tape and ip the board over. You should see, on the opposite side, just a small point from your
brad bit. To nish it o , use a forstner bit the size of your bolt head. Since this instructable calls
for a 1/2" forstner bit, and most heads on a carriage bolt are 5/8" in diameter, you can tap the
carriage bolt in if you want to.

Insert (2) 2 1/2" bolts*, add 1/4" washers* and use (2) 1/4" wing nuts* or a thumb screws*.

*Or whatever size ts in your miter gauge.

Connecting to a miter gauge. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=100)

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Step 5: Cutting Stop Blocks and the Pin

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On either side of the threaded rod that strings through the center of the dado we cut, we'll need
to create blocks that keep the rod stabilized, allowing only the center pin that we align our
wood to movement. Since the pin is the only movement we want as we crank our handle, we'll
want everything else to stay exactly where it should.

The rst thing we'll do is cut our 1x4x20" board so that it ts nice and tight in the dado we
created. If you're following along, we cut a 1" square channel in our 2x6 and will cut our 1x4 to 1"
on the table saw.

After we've accomplished this we'll place the end of our newly cut board in the channel and
draw a line across the edge. Next we'll use a straight edge to draw an 'X' with all 4 corners.
Before cutting that section of wood and making a square, we'll pull out our drill and chuck a 3/8"
Forstner bit in and center it on the 'X'. Drilling with a drill press is easy. You put the stock on the
table and press the bit into the wood. Doing the same with a drill is obviously more di cult. To
accomplish this a bit more easily, watch the edges of the Forstner bit as it cuts downward. Note
the top of the bit and the top of the block of wood and make adjustments if you feel like it's not
straight. I could have suggested using a drill bit here instead, but a Forstner bit can be a bit more
helpful with this method, so long as you take your time and drill as straight as you can.

If you have a drill press, you will get a more precise holes, but I didn't re up my drill press with
both the miter gauge style and sled style jig (I did make both of them) and using just a drill
worked ne for me. Then again, skill does play into this with a hand drill (and believe me, I'm no
Bob Vila).

We'll want to cut the board so that that piece will sit ush in the channel. You can use either your
sled or the miter gauge to do so. Once we've cut the one, we'll repeat the process and cut 2
more, the exact way.

Next we'll cut our pin out, which is basically the same thing as the three blocks, except it will
extend another inch above the jig, giving it a measurement of 2" in length. Just as the previous
stop blocks, we'll want to measure and mark an 'X' on the lower 1" section. The hole in this block
will be drilled out with a 1/2" Forstner bit as it will need to house the 3/8" Brad t-nut.

Finally, we'll cut the pin (again, making sure we've added an inch) and move onto the next step.

Stop Blocked and Pinned. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=144)

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Step 6: Sanding and Epoxy, Oh Great Pin

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A couple points about our great, reliable pin. The actual size of the barrel on the brad t-nut is
7/16". But, if you remember, we drilled the hole at 1/2". Because it's important that it's both
straight on the threaded rod and in the right space, we gave ourselves a 1/16" extra. We'll now
center it exactly where it needs to be by allowing it to be threaded on and glued in place.

Before we do that, we'll want to make sure that it slides easily inside of the dado. To do that we'll
use a piece of sandpaper and do our best to sand both edges evenly. This is a simple a air that
doesn't need to be overdone or underdone...like a tasty, medium steak. In the video link I'm
providing here, you'll get the essential idea of how much it needs to slide.

Smooth slidin'. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=223)

(https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=223)After we've taken care to allow play in the pin's
movement, we'll work on epoxying the brad t-nut in place. To do that, we'll rst lay down three
strips of masking tape in the dado so that our epoxy doesn't somehow drip down into the
valley. Since we're only epoxying the pin, one might ask why we don't just use a strip of tape
under it instead of adding tape below both stop blocks. The reason is simple. Adding tape will
raise the pin a slight bit above the wood channel. We'll add pieces of tape on the underside of
the other 2 stop blocks to keep the same height.

We'll put the stop blocks about where they'll be when this is all assembled: one on the left side
and the other on the right side of the kerf cut we made in step 4. The 3rd block will play no part
in this step. The pin will need to be somewhere between the two pins and the brad t-nut will
need to be threaded on.

Adding tape. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=234)

(https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=234)Next we'll mix a little bit of epoxy up and place it on the

barrel of the brad t-nut being extremely careful not to get any on the threading. We'll squeeze
the block on and check to make sure its snug and give it about 30 minutes to harden. Note that
it won't be fully cured at that point, but enough for us to do the next step.

Last, but not least, mark both of the stop blocks with an arrow pointing up, just in case ipping
the blocks over in the future gives us a di erent angle.

Nature's magic glue. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=250)

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Step 7: Finishing Our Box Joint Mechanism

 5 More Images
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Now that our pin has somewhat cured (if you waited 30 minutes (if you waited longer, you're
better than I)), we'll move our mechanism out of the dado and remove the tape. Things are
about to get critically important.

Well, sort of. This is a simple project, but this part is important if we want our mechanism to
work.

We'll make sure that the stop block next to the kerf is about a half inch over to the right of the
kerf* and the stop block on the opposite side is about a nut's length away from the end. Also
make sure that the threaded rod is about a 1/2" outside of the jig as we'll be adding a crank to
the end. We'll add a washer and a 3/8" nut to both sides, leaving absolutely no space between
the wood and the washer. This mechanism (the threaded rod) needs to not move at all.

Once we've placed the rod exactly where it needs to be, we'll mark the rod next to the nut. This
mark will tell us how far to return the nut after we've put epoxy on the rod, so take some mental
pictures of the position.

Remove the mechanism, pushing both stop washers and stop blocks towards the center and roll
back the nuts about a half inch. We'll put epoxy where both nuts had been on the rod and roll
the nuts back, again, checking the marks we made to make sure they're where they need to be.
Now we'll wait another 30 minutes for the epoxy to semi-cure.

* By right, I mean if the cut dado is facing forward and you are behind the back of the board.
Positioning the mechanism. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=268)

(https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=268)After the initial set up time we'll add a little glue to the
blocks and reposition them back into the track. We'll now add the 3rd stop block at the far end
which will be used to close up the channel and prevent warping. You may nd that the stop
blocks are a bit more di cult to insert and may require a mallet or a hammer. Expansion and all.

Now give it about 5 hours before proceeding.

Gluing and allowing our mechanism break time. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=300)

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Step 8: Cranky Crank

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Technically speaking, this project is...done. So long as you don't mind moving the bolt with your
ngers to advance the pin. If tedious nger twisting and frustration due to lack of indexing isn't
your style, then let's add ourselves a crank. It'll be a simple, I promise!

We're heading back now to the 1" block we cut from the 1x4x20". We'll be cutting a 2" piece o
of this, but before we do we're going to drill out a hole for our 1/4" bolt and a pronged t-nut.
Both holes we'll drill will be 1/2" from the edge of the 2" piece. One, of course, will be a 1/4" hole,
the other we'll use the 1/2" forstner bit.
Once both are drilled, we'll put our pronged t-nut in the hole and give it a couple smacks to
imprint holes into the wood below it. Next we'll use an 1/8" drill bit and drill all 3 (sometimes 4
holes depending on your t-nut) holes. Afterwards, we'll bring it back to the table saw and cut the
2" crank segment o .

We'll add epoxy to the underside of the 1/4" carriage bolt head and hammer it into the 1/4" hole
we drilled. I added a little epoxy to the under side of the pronged t-nut just to make sure it was
at against the wood and gave it 30 minutes to set.

Next I turned the jig on its end and poured epoxy into the 1/2" hole, opposite of the t-nut
entrance. This will glue and permanently lock up the threaded rod to the crank. Be sure to wait
for the epoxy to cure before using.

Now, you could crank the cranky crank with just the 1/4" bolt, but it's not very ergonomically
pleasing on the ngers. So we'll build a tiny handle by once again going back to the 1" block we
cut from the 1x4x20". We'll cut o a 1" section (dimensions 1x1x 3/4" block) and turn it on it's
side, placing an 'X' and drilling through. We'll add a 1/4" washer between the 2" crank and the
handle for the crank, another washer on the opposite side of the handle, and then (2) 1/4" nuts
that are jammed together to form a lock. Alternatively, you could just use one, so long as you
use epoxy to set that one.

We're done!

Making and installing the cranky crank. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=362)

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Step 9: Operation
 3 More Images
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Just like every tool in your shop, there's a little bit of learning that's involved in making a perfect
box joint cut. Fortunately for you, I've spent a signi cant amount of time studying my jig to give
you the advice and information I'm going to give you to ne tune your jig.

In this step, I'm going to be as thorough as I know how to be. I'm not always the best when I
describe something, so PLEASE leave a message at the bottom of this instructable if you have
ANY questions. I want this to be a generally enjoyable experience for you and want it to work for
every person that puts this jig together. It's not a di cult jig at all to make (I've made 4 of these
jigs now, and each works beautifully), but I may have not made certain things clear that I'll clear
up as soon as I'm told.

If you haven't watched the video, here are the instructions for operation that I give in it:

Operation of your new box joint jig. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=451)

Now that you've seen it, there are a few corrections I'd like to give as explaining on videos can be
di cult due to attention spans and all. Using those full instructions will give you a box joint.
Absolutely! But it will be a very loose tting joint. For some people, that's great; other's, it could
be annoying. There are a few ways to x this annoyance. First, I'll give the basic operation and
then I'll ne tune it for you.
First and foremost, we'll need to line up the tooth of our blade to be on the inside of our board,
at the very beginning. In "Picture A", you can see how my stock is positioned according to the
blade. As soon as I made the right alignment, I marked a line on the pin and the jig itself for
quick future references (as seen in "Picture B"). I also made sure that my crank, at that line, was in
either an up or down position to make it easier for future turning. Now, I don't know if I
somehow got lucky and each of the 4 box joint jigs I've made have allowed me to, through some
cosmic randomness, have it line up in either the up or down position. (Pictures "Crank Position
Up/Down") above)

Now I'll start my saw and make my rst cut. I'll crank it again, and make a second cut. From here,
you can make any series of cuts, but you have to start o with at least 2 cuts. Once you've
decided the number of cranks you want to make each tooth, you'll put your second board on,
lined up to the last cut that was made ("Picture C").

Of course, for every cut group we make, we'll need to make a 'non cut' group. To start on this
new group, we'll add 2 turns. So the pattern is as follows

Cut group

Non cut group + 2 turns

For example, if I make my rst initial 2 cut pass, I'll need to do 2 non cuts, plus 2 more turns.

2 cutting turns

4 non cutting turns

For 7 cuts, I'll need to make 9 non cuts.

7 cutting turns

9 non cutting turns

Now back to the tting issue. If you nd that your cuts aren't tight enough for you, the last crank
you make before switching to a non cutting cycle should be a half turn.

Going back to the past examples:

2 cutting turns = 1 1/2 cranks

4 non cutting turns (stays the same)

7 cutting turns = 6 1/2 cutting turns

9 non cutting turns (stays the same)

But why is the joint loose? Since most 10" blades for table saws are roughly 3/32" in cutting
width (the kerf ), and our 3/8"-16 rod moves at a 1/16 of an inch with every crank rotation we
make, I used 2 turns to overcome the 3/32". Two turns of a 3/8"-16 rod actually comes to 4/16", or
1/8", leaving 1/16", or about 1/32" on either side of the tooth. To tighten the tooth, we could use
a 1/16" blade in place of our 3/32" blade, or go back to my last example by using a half crank.

Here I'm giving credit to Mathias Wandel for the idea of using a couple of 1/16" blades stacked
together.

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Step 10: Advanced!

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I've made a very sleek and rugged little table saw sled where I incorporated this mechanism into
the fence as well as adding additional details. If you'd like to see how I did that, check out the
link below.

Advanced Box Sled (https://youtu.be/ruQsRNsrCYU)

Another idea that I incorporated into my jig is a clamping board that allows you to clamp your
stock to a board that is glued to the pin. This makes it much easier to keep the boards straight as
you'll be removing the human error aspect to pushing the board along.

I've left a sketchup image I made that I used on my jig. Of course, this was cut on a bandsaw,
something I said you didn't need to make box joints. You, of course, could use a coping saw if
you don't have access to a bandsaw. The image I've left makes it very easy to make your own
clamping board to add to your jig.

Clamping board addition. (https://youtu.be/sRsawJSLE7o?t=564)

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 Step 11: Troubleshooting & Thank You!

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My joints aren't tight enough.

Check out my "Operation" step which will explain how to get tighter cuts.

I'm having trouble with my teeth not looking right/lining up when I'm done.
Be absolutely sure that your stock is perfectly straight (all corners are 90°) and that it is
aligned up properly to the pin. Also make sure that your sled is at and not sagging or
raised in the middle. I had di culty with one of my sleds until I found out it wasn't at.

Please leave me more problems (if you run into anything) so that I can add them to the
troubleshooting comments above!

Thank you so much for giving this idea of mine a look. I had a blast making this and would be
thrilled to hear that you've made it yourself, so please hit the "I made it!" button. If you choose to
make this project, please give me credit for the idea. Taking other people's ideas and calling
them your own is a super naughty b. A TON of time and energy went into this (at least a
month's worth of time) so I'd appreciate a mention when using it.

If you like my work, please follow me here and on Instagram, as well as a sub on Youtube. Thank
you!

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/c/makethings)

Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/makethingswithrob/)

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