Fashionable farming - the people growing their

own clothes
By Katherine Latham
Business reporter

Image caption,
Fashion designer Patrick Grant
has helped to lead the project
to grow flax in Blackburn and
turn it into linen
Back in April a team of about 30
volunteers started work on a
grand plan - to grow their own
clothes.
On a patch of unused land in
the Lancashire town of
Blackburn, they planted the seeds of two crops - flax and woad.
Fast-forward to early August and they harvested the small field beside the Leeds &
Liverpool Canal.
The flax has since been broken, scutched, hackled, spun, and woven to create the
fabric linen.
Meanwhile, the woad leaves were heated and then cooled in water to create natural
indigo dye to colour the linen blue.

Image caption,
The flax was harvested in August

 Sewing Bee judge to showcase homespun jeans

This Saturday, a portion of the linen will go on display at Blackburn Museum and Art
Gallery.
This is taking place as part of the month-long British Textile Biennial 2021 festival of
UK fabric and clothing production, being held at 13 venues across east Lancashire.
The flax and woad were grown and turned into linen and dye by a fashion
collaborative called Homegrown Homespun.
This comprises Community Clothing, a fashion company and social enterprise that
does all its manufacturing in the UK; North West England Fibreshed, an association
of textile professionals; and The Super Slow Way, the organisers of the
aforementioned textile festival.
Blackburn, Manchester, and Lancashire in general were once at the centre of global
textile manufacturing. But after World War Two the industry went into sharp decline,
as production shifted overseas to countries with cheaper manufacturing set-ups.
 Image caption,
A portion of Homegrown Homespun's first
linen, pictured, will be put on display this
weekend
Homegrown Homespun hopes to help
revive Blackburn's textile industry, by
producing linen clothes locally - from
growing the flax to making the garments.
"The idea with Homegrown Homespun is to rebuild the entire supply chain," says
Patrick Grant, fashion designer and founder of Community Clothing, who is also a
judge on long-running BBC TV show The Great British Sewing Bee.
"In this country we used to be completely self-sufficient in clothing. Most clothes
were linen or wool, and flax was grown all across the UK. In fact, in the 16th Century,
it was law that every landowner had to dedicate a portion of their land to growing
flax."
Flax is sometimes called "Britain's forgotten crop". It is considered to have first been
cultivated in the British Isles for the production of linen during the Bronze Age - some
4,000 years ago.
By the 18th Century around 50 million yards of linen was produced in the UK, but
during the 19th Century it was replaced by imported cotton, and linen production fell
away.
Flax is still grown commercially in the UK to produce linseeds, which you can eat,
and linseed oil, which is used as a wood treatment and in paint. However, flax hasn't
been grown commercially for the plant's fibre since the 1950s.
"We want to see if it's possible to rebuild the UK flax and linen industry," says Mr
Grant.
"So, we can have locally-grown fibre going into our clothes for the first time in a long
time. We want to demonstrate that flax can be grown viably, for linen, in the UK."

Image caption,
Flax plants have blue flowers
Justine Aldersey-Williams, founder of North
West England Fibreshed, says that flax is a
good crop to grow in the UK because it is so
hardy - it doesn't require watering, pesticides
or fertiliser.
The only downside, she says, is that it is
labour intensive to harvest and process into linen, making it more expensive than
imported cotton.
"There are no mechanised flax processing facilities in the UK, so we're learning from
our pre-industrial ancestors and doing everything by hand," she says.
Despite this handmade scale at present, Mr Grant adds: "More and more consumers
are buying linen because of its environmental benefits. They know it's good for the
planet."
This is in contrast to global cotton production, which the World Wildlife Fund
describes as "environmentally unsustainable".
Growing more flax in the UK to make British-made linen clothing would also cut
down on the carbon emissions, and cost, of shipping and flying fabric and finished
garments into the country.
There is one clothing fabric that the UK is not short of - sheep's wool.
Babs Behan runs Bristol Cloth Project, which sells scarves, cloth and knitting yarn
made from wool sourced from farms within 15 miles of the city. She and her team
colour the wool with dyes made from plants foraged locally.
"It's simple," she says. "We need to make less, make it well, and make it last. We
must make sure the things we bring into our lives - and wardrobes - are appreciated,
looked after, and go back into the soil as food, not poison."
Oxfordshire-based fashion designer Justine Tabak also uses a lot of UK wool,
specifically from Yorkshire sheep, at her eponymous clothing company.
In addition, she buys Irish-made linen, cotton lace woven in Nottingham, and also
uses "deadstock fabric" - discarded ends of rolls from other manufacturers and
designers.
"It goes some way to limiting over-consumption," she says. "My clothes aren't cheap,
but I know that my customers wear [them] time and time again over many years,
meaning price-per-wear is low."

Image caption,
Designer Justine Tabak and her
daughter Daisy model clothing she made
from fabric that may otherwise have been
wasted
Almost half of UK consumers are now
consciously buying locally-produced
goods to try to be more sustainable, a
report by accountancy group Deloitte found earlier this year.
This tallies with what Kate Hills has seen at her organisation Make It British, which
promotes UK brands, and helps businesses get their products manufactured in the
UK.
"The majority of our members recorded their best year ever in 2020 [despite the
pandemic]," she says. "People were looking for something that wasn't made in
China.
"[And] when you're flying products all around the world you're making a big carbon
footprint."