1:130 Harvey Making Tutorial

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HARVEY1847 Harvey (2011 version) ship model kit

For the convenience of everyone's production is a reference, we will post the
large drawings of the Harvey number for everyone to make in the production, upgrade
reference, the picture can be clicked to enlarge to view the details.
 The following picture shows the manufacturer's production guide. The
combination of the front support and the bow has obvious errors. Please see the post
below. The picture can be clicked to enlarge to view the details.
Description of the components of the pressurized water well (above):
The instructions in the kit are drawn in the original ship structure, which is
intended to provide the manufacturer with detailed structural reference, but H-1, H-2
and H in the figure. -4 is not in the kit, you don't have to find it. H-1 can be made of
0.5 fine wire, H-2 can be made with toothpick, H-4 can be made with 0.05mm thin
copper. Of course, also Can be ignored or omitted, after all, the ratio of Harvey
number is 1:130, the overall details do not have to be too high, please ask the
producer to combine their own hands-on ability to make reference.
1、Open box:
Please check if the following plates and parts are included in your package (if
you do not agree, please contact the seller immediately)

Remove the cut part from the board, and recommend which part to make the part
of the part to avoid missing parts:

Use the utility knife to remove Harvey's keel and ribs (because each part is
laser-cut beforehand, so we only need to use a utility knife to make a few knives on
both sides of the connection point between the part and the slab. Easy to remove), on
the basis of ensuring the straight line of the keel, insert the ribs into the corresponding
keel position by number, and then fix it with glue.
 See the 2 small triangles on the right side? Please put them symmetrically on
both sides of the keel before the No. 1 rib. He will help you to paste the hull strip (see
the third picture below for the specific location).

After the combination of the dragon ribs is completed, the edges of the three ribs
in the direction of the bow and the edges of the three ribs in the stern direction are
sanded according to the hull curve to increase the bonding area with the hull strip.
2、Bonding of hull wood strips:
Since this kit is a low-cost universal kit, there is only one layer of hull, and only
one layer of the hull can be completed to complete the hull fitting work. It should be
noted that: 1. The location near the bow due to the curvature Larger, so it is not easy
to directly paste the hull wood strip, forcibly bending easily causes the wooden strip
to break. At this time, it is necessary to use the electric iron to bend the wood strip to
adapt to the hull curvature, and successfully complete the hull labeling; 2. The order
of the packaging : 3-5 sticks from top to bottom, 3-5 sticks from bottom to top, and
then filled with wood strips that have been trimmed with sandpaper to the middle of
both ends; 3, the wooden strip and keel of the bow The pasted part should be sanded
to increase the bonding area with the keel.
First, you need a 50 watt electric soldering iron. Before using it, you need to
carefully check whether the wire connection is safe, whether the handle is completely
insulated, then find a jar, put in water, soak one end of the wood in the water,
completely soaked. Take out the wooden strip and use the electric iron that has been
heated and heated to slowly iron the place where the wooden strip needs to be bent. At
the same time, the wooden strip is shaped by hand, and the wooden strip can be
placed on a thick wooden board. The soldering iron is ironed on it. He can tilt the
soldering iron with a bracket, then grab the strip with both hands and place it on the
left and right to make the strip deform. It should be noted that no matter how it is
processed, it is necessary to pay attention to safety and prevent burns. In the process
of bending the wooden strips, it is necessary to constantly compare with the hull, do
not bend excessively, and at the same time, constantly move the wooden strips to
prevent the local temperature of the wooden strips from being high-temperature
carbonized and cannot be used.

Once the strips are bent, they can be glued together, starting with the head. Place
the finished end on the edge of the deck and place it on the fillet and hold it against
the keel. Hold it with your fingers and look at the trailing strips. It should be roughly
parallel to the deck, if the front end is not unattached. Place, you can use 502 glue to
stick the front

.
 Again, the order of the hull strips is 3-5 sticks from top to bottom, 3-5 sticks
from bottom to top, and then the middle is finished with sandpaper that has been
trimmed with two sandpapers. filling.

After the hull of the small boat is finished, it is difficult to ensure that there is no
difference in the thickness of the wooden strip. If it cannot be done, it can only be
reduced as much as possible;

After sanding and various types of water sandpaper, the grinding is completed
from coarse to fine.
 It’s hard, you should have finished the hull decoration at this time.
Congratulations, the prototype of Little Harvey can be clearly seen, but there is a very
necessary small “surgery” to do, the keel boat The "spike" of the head part is moved
down to the correct position, otherwise the insertion of the front support and the bow
will be difficult.
Surgical purpose: Move the keel's bow section down as a whole to allow the front
branch to be inserted into the hull space.
Specific operations:
1. Use a utility knife to cut the keel's bow section (up to 8 mm above and below)
(close to the outer edge of the joint between the hull and the keel);
2. Cut the lower end of the cut part of the keel by 4 mm (this is the extra useless part,
cut and throw away);
3. Bond the remaining part back to the cut off above the bow section of the hull keel;
4, the grinding joint is uneven as a whole.

See the next picture for the completion of the map:

3、Armored:
I believe that even if you have not made the ancient sail model, you have at least
made a plastic model, so the deck construction and small parts of the armor are not
much to say, everyone is "construction" according to the picture, huh, oh, right,
for Keep the overall cleanliness of the finished product and lay a good foundation for
the subsequent painting. Please polish the laser-cut carbon black of each part with fine
sandpaper as much as possible. The benefits are not mentioned for the time being.
You will know why you want to get rid of the work. A lot, of course, if you are lazy,
don't blame me for not saying.
4、Mast:
Mast and rigging are the life and important features of the ancient sail model, so
this part can not be neglected. Below is the length data of each mast measured by our
finished ship according to the drawings. Please make a reference in the production:

All the mast making materials (round sticks of different diameters) are provided in
the kit. Simply say the mast making process:

1. Refer to the dimensions in the mast data diagram below to find the size of the
round bar provided by the kit to be processed;
2.Trimming the round bar with a pliers, a utility knife, and sandpaper to exactly
match the dimensions marked in the figure;
3.Do not forget that under the main mast is to pass through the deck of the mast
seat reserved hole into the hull of the dragon ribs under the hull combination, to
reserve the part of the length of the mast to be inserted into the hull;
4.The mast is not as thick as the head to the tail, the vertical mast is generally fine
and thick, the horizontal mast is generally thick in the middle of the two ends, from
thick to thin is a gradual, gentle transition, not a sudden Thick to thin (the look of a
needle is old and ugly, pay special attention).
 Everyone needs to pay attention to the production. Some masts are thick and thin.
They are not suddenly excessive from coarse to fine, but gradually over-exposed. Pay
special attention to avoid making your mother's needle for knitting sweaters. The
shape is too unreliable.
 Because Harvey is relatively small, the details of the mast are not many. After all,
it is a set of hand-level kits, so please let us know the simple structure of the mast
through this kit.
5、Advice on adding a detail rope to the boat:
The original kit does not have the details of the rope net, so don't imagine that
the thread given in the kit will be enough for you to make the rope net. Ask the
mother to have a roll of black cotton thread. It won't be used much. After using it,
remember it.
In fact, the weaving of the rope net on the boat is much easier than that of the big
ship, because even if it is woven according to the method of the big ship rope net, the
knot of each knot will be very large because of the high proportion of the ship, thus
losing the truth, so we It is recommended that you do not weave. First, position the
longitudinal cable according to the position of the drawing, as shown below:

Then straighten the cotton thread and soak it with 502 glue. Soon you will get a
long and firm cotton thread. Cut it into small pieces according to the width of the rope.
Use a toothpick to pick up the gel 502 and glue it into place. Please see the picture
below:
 After the bonding is completed, use a sharp nail clipper to cut and cut the
exposed rope head, OK, finished, huh, look at the picture below, the effect is good?
6、sail:
When I got here, it is estimated that your friend saw the boat in your production
process. You should have a surprised and envious expression on your face. Yes, I
think you are enjoying this feeling too, huh, but it’s not finished yet. We will continue
to add icing on the cake and let the boats we made ourselves sail.
The first thing: dyeing the sails, the boat traveled on the sea after years of trekking,
the color is often not snow white, but the yellow color of the old color, this color can
be easily used to get tea, find some tea ( No good tea, huh, huh, whatever tea is all
right, the following dyeing is the jasmine of 2 yuan in our supermarket downstairs,
put it in the pot and boil it, then put the cloth into it and cook it, the color of the
canvas It will get deeper and deeper. When you feel the color meets your requirements,
you can remove it and dry it.
One thing to remind everyone, after the boiled sail is out of the water, don't screw it
too dry, because there will be many wrinkles after the cotton cloth is squirted and
dried. This is not what we want, so use a simple method to smash it from the pot.
When you don't get hot, just stick it on your window glass. After you have done it,
don't wrinkle any more. Remember to wipe the water traces down. Otherwise, don't
look for me.

Let's talk about the cutting of the canvas. There is nothing to say about this step.
According to the drawings, the sails can be cut with sharp scissors. What you want to
say is the connection between the sail and the cable and the mast:
The sail of the large ancient sail model is to be trimmed, but Harvey is too small.
If it is curled, it will make the sail look unnatural, and it will feel very thick and
unreliable, so it will not roll. . But not lazy, it is for the sake of truth.

Use gel 502 glue to circle around the sail block. The less the better, the sail will
not fly, and then the edges will be glued (or gel 502) cable, the cable must be set aside.
Ah, it’s not good to be on the mast.

After that, it is simple. According to the figure, the sails are tied to the mast, and
they are all alive. Turn over the picture below to see if you have done what I am doing,
huh, huh, talk again next time.
Oh, yes, forgot to say, the shallow texture on the sail is the HB pencil road, you
know, OK, come on!