Flashv 1

www.flashbike.
io
Model: FLASHV1
FCC ID: 2AMLO-FLASH1
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and
2) this device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired operation.
This equipment should be operated with minimum distance
of 20cm between the radiator and the human body.
READ THIS MANUAL FIRST

IMPORTANT BEFORE YOU START TO RIDE YOUR BIKE
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Contents
Learn About Flash 01-02
Read Me First 03
Assembling Flash 04-05
Completing Account Setup 06-07
Riding Flash 08-11
Limited Warranty 12-13
Bicycle Owner's Manual 14-56
Frequently Asked Questions 57

Learn About Flash Turn signals
Lights
Stem Handlebar
Horn
Shifters Pedal assist
Saddle Touchscreen (TFT)
Brakes
Seat post quick release

Front LED Headlight
Rear LED brake light
Front disc brake
Rear disc brake
Charge port Front wheel
Quick release
Rear wheel
motor
Right pedal
Kickstand
Derailleur & cassette Schrader Tire Valve

Learn About Flash
7-Speed Shifter
Front Brake Lever Rear Brake Lever
Throttle
Horn
Pedal Assist Level
Headlight
Left Turn Signal Right Turn Signal

Read Me First
We have provided YouTube videos at http://support.flashbike.io with detailed
instructions on how to setup your Flash with the free Flash smartphone App.
Unwrapping the bike Download the Flash APP

• Ask a friend to help remove the bike from the box. • Download free smartphone APP for iOS and Android
• Open the box with the TOP side up. • Follow detailed instructions at http://support.flashbike.io
• Remove the bike from the carton. Required tools
• Locate the user manual if you have not already. • 4mm allen wrench (included)
• Then carefully remove all foam, paper and tie-strap • 5mm allen wrench (included)
wrapping materials from the bike. • Adjustable crescent wrench or 15mm wrench
• Locate the battery charger box and kit box containing • Philips screwdriver
the tools, pedals, skewer and reflectors. What’s included in the box
• 1x Flash
• 1x user manual
• 2x pedals
• 1x front skewer
• 1x 36V lithium ion battery pack (inside the bike frame)
• 1x 110V battery charger
• 2x reflectors (front and rear)
3

Assembling Flash
We have provided YouTube videos at http://support.flashbike.io with detailed
instructions on how to assemble your bike. Written instructions are below.
How to assemble the bike 3. Assemble the handlebar on the stem using a provided
1. Start first by attaching the skewer to the front hub and 4mm allen key. Remove the (4x) 4mm screws from the
wheel. stem. Then attached the handlebar as shown in the
image. Then angle the brakes on the handlebar at 45
degrees towards the front of the bike. Then tighten the
4x 4mm screws on the stem at 7Nm - 8Nm of torque.
2. Assemble the front wheel on the bike’s front fork.

4. Assemble and center the stem so the handlebar is per 6. Assemble the clear front reflector on the front of the
pendicularly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the handlebar and the red reflector on the seatpost facing
(2x) 5mm hex screws on the stem to 8Nm - 9Nm of the rear.
torque.
7. Add 40 P.S.I. (min) to 65 P.S.I. (max.) to both the front and
rear tire if your tire is a Kenda 26” x 2.10” tire. We recom-
mend to use a hand pump or foot pump with a schrader
valve that is similar to an auto tire valve. Note: Always
check the tire pressure indicated on the outside wall of
your tire before each ride.
5. Use a 15mm wrench to assemble the pedals. NOTE:

the right pedal must be attached to the right crank arm
(chainring side) and tighten the pedal in a clockwise
rotation. The left pedal must be attached to the opposite
side and tighten by counter clockwise. Do not reverse
the pedals or you will damage the bike. Apply 35Nm of
torque.
5 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

Completing Account Setup
1. Downloading the free smartphone APP 3. Create your unique 5-digit security PIN code. Save
Please download the Flash APP available in iOS App this code in a safe place as you will need it to turn
store or Android Google Play Store or visit http://sup- on the bike or turn the bike from ARM to OFF. If you
port.flashbike.io choose not to create a PIN code you can enter the
default PIN code 11111 on the LCD screen.
2. Create your Account
The first time you open your newly downloaded Flash
APP, you will be asked to register and create a profile
with your email address. You can register your Flash
during the registration process.
3. Pairing your bike with your Flash APP on your

smartphone
1. Make sure to turn on your Bluetooth under your
smartphone’s settings.
2. After you create your user profile you will receive
a Bluetooth pairing code. You will need to enter this
code when you pair your Flash APP on your smart-
phone with your Flash bike.

4. First charge the battery in your Flash
You must first connect the battery charger to a 110V
wall outlet and then to the charge port found on the
underside of your main tube of the bike. Remove the
rubber flap to insert the charger plug to the charge
port. The battery charger LED will indicate red when
the battery is charging. The TFT screen will indicate
when the battery is being charged. The battery is fully
charged when the LED light turns green on the battery
charger. To fully charge a battery typically takes 4-7
hours. Charge the bike until it turns green before your
first ride.

Riding Flash
How to turn the bike on for the very first time you will have 4 more tries before the bike is locked and
Once your bike is fully charged tap the touchscreen with unable to turn on. If this happens you will need to unlock
your finger to turn on the TFT screen. The Flash logo will ap- the bike with your APP. Please contact Flash support if
pear on the screen. Note: make sure the bike is fully charged you encounter any issues.
and the charger plug is removed from the bike’s charge port.
How to turn the bike off
How to turn your bike On and start riding Swipe the touch screen from the right edge of the screen to
1. Tap the touch screen with your finger to turn on the TFT the left edge of the screen. Then touch the OFF button to
screen and the Flash logo will appear on the screen. turn the bike to its OFF state. The motor will be turned off in
2. Enter your unique 5-digit security PIN code to unlock this state. The throttle and PAS will not work in this state. All
and turn on Flash. If your bike is armed use this same electrical features such as the lights and horn and motor will
PIN code to disarm the bike. Note: if you did not create be turned off in this state. You can continue to ride the bike
a unique PIN code during the profile setup process on like any traditional bike in the OFF state.
your Flash smartphone APP, you can enter the factory
default PIN code 11111. How to Arm the bike
3. The screen will then show 0 mph and Pedal Assist Level 1. To ARM the bike you will need to turn on the TFT by
0. If your bike is armed you will need to enter your touching or swiping the screen.
5-digit security code by touching the numbers on the 2. Then select by touching Off & Arm button. Your bike is
TFT screen. If you entered your security code incorrectly now in the Armed mode. You can track the status of your

bike with your APP in this mode. This will turn on the front headlight. To turn off the main
headlight hold down the headlight button for 2-3 sec-
How to Disarm the bike onds.
To disarm the bike touch the screen twice until you see the 6 3. To select the three levels of brightness on the main
digit passcode screen. Then enter your 5-digit security code center headlight you will need to push the light button
to unlock the bike. Your bike is now ready to ride or you can quickly to toggle between the 3 modes which includes
turn off the bike by swiping the screen and touching the OFF low to mid to high intensity.
button.
How to turn on the horn
How to turn on or off the front LED headlight Push the Horn button on the right side of the handlebar to
1. Turn on your bike by touching the TFT screen. If your trigger the horn.
bike is armed you will need to enter your 5-digit security
code.
2. Then hold down the light button for 2-3 seconds on the
right side of the handlebar to turn on the headlight as
show in the image below.

How to select the Pedal Assist Level (PAS) Throttle on Demand
1. First turn your bike to the On state. To use the throttle make sure your bike is in the On state and
2. Press the + button on the left side of your handlebar to PAS is between 1-4. Then twist the throttle back with your
select 0,1, 2, 3, or 4 PAS levels. right hand as show in the image below.
3. Press the - button on the left side of your handlebar to
select 4, 3, 2, 1, or 0 PAS levels.
How to use 7 speed shifter

Note: you must pedal in order to use your mechanical
shifter.
1. To climb a hill, use your right thumb to shift from gear
7 to 1.
2. To ride faster, press the + sign with your right thumb

to reach up to the 7th gear. How to disengage the motor
To disengage the motor pull back on either the left or right
side of the brake lever. This will cut off the power to the mo-
tor. Letting go the throttle will also disengage the motor.

Managing the Battery the battery needs to be charged. It is recommended
• It is recommended to always charge your battery after to store your bike in a dry location within the follow-
each ride. This will help extend the life of your battery ing temperatures: 41F to 95F (5C to 35C) at 65 relative
and keep your system active. humidity.
• We do not recommend to charge the battery pack under
10 degrees celsius.
• Never charge the battery pack under direct sunlight.
• Never charge the battery pack under the rain. If the bike
is wet, always wipe down the bike and wait until it is fully
dry prior to plugging the charger into the bike’s charge
port.
• Never leave the charger plugged into the bike’s charge
port for more than 24 hours.
• The battery can go into sleep mode if unused for a pe-
riod of time. To wake the battery out of sleep mode you
have to plug the charger into the bike’s charge port with
the charger plugged into the AC wall outlet.
How to Maintain & Service

• Recommended Service Intervals -see page 47
• Storing the bike for extended periods
Prior to storing your bike always charge your battery
pack to its full capacity. Your App will notify you when

Limited Warranty
LIMITED WARRANTY A bicycle must be registered with Flash within 30 days of
KPZ, Inc., DBA (“Flash”) provides the following warranty purchase or this warranty is void
against defects in materials and workmanship:
This warranty, or any implied warranty, does not cover
Two Years from the Date of Purchase: Frame, Wheels, claimed defects, malfunctions, or failures that result from
Fenders, Racks, Brakes, Shifters, Crank, Pedals, and Seat, normal wear and tear, accidents, misuse, abuse, neglect,
(but not including grips, tires, tubes, cables, brake shoes, and commercial use, any modifications (other than the addi-
seat covering). tion of Flash-approved accessories as published on Flash’s
website), improper assembly, improper maintenance, ship-
One Year from the Date of Purchase: Battery, Battery Char- ping, or acts of God.
ger, Motor, Touchscreen, Lights, and Handlebar Controls
Except as expressly set forth above, Flash disclaims all
LIMITATIONS other warranties, expressed or implied, including implied
This warranty, or any implied warranty, is expressly limited to warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular
the repair or replacement of defective parts. This warranty purpose.
is offered only to the original purchasers of Flash bikes and
is not transferable. This warranty only applies to new Flash Some states or countries do not allow limitations on how
bikes purchased through Flash’s website or Flash’s Indiego- long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may
go campaigns. not apply to you.
12

Flash is not responsible for incidental or consequential the original credit card used in the purchase transaction.
damages, including, damages for personal injury, property
damage, or economic losses, whether based on contract,
warranty, negligence, product liability, or any other theory.
Some states or countries do not allow exclusions of inciden-
tal or consequential damages, so the above exclusion may
not apply to you.
Any claim against this warranty must be made through Flash.

To initiate a warranty claim please contact Flash at
support@flashbike.io.
RETURN POLICY
Bikes may be returned within 30 days of bike user account
setup, or within 90 days of receiving the bike, whichever
occurs first.
Accessory items purchased as standalone products may be

returned within 30 days of receiving shipment.
To qualify for a full refund, all products must be in new, un-

used condition with its original packaging. Proof of purchase
is required with original receipt. Any refund will be applied to
13

Bicycle Owner’s Manual
IMPORTANT: NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensive
This manual contains important safety, performance and use, service, repair or maintenance manual. Please see your
service information. Read it before you take the first ride on dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer
your new bicycle, and keep it for reference. may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics or books on
bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
Additional safety, performance and service information
for specific components such as suspension or pedals on
your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights
that you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that
your dealer has given you all the manufacturers’ literature
that was included with your bicycle or accessories. In case
of a conflict between the instructions in this manual and
information provided by a component manufacturer, always
follow the component manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something,

take responsibility for your safety and consult with your
dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
14

GENERAL WARNING serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your war-
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. ranty.
By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility
for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose con-
rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and trol and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious injury or
maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible
reduces risk of injury. injury or death.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” con- Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or
cerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes
your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices. no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under
all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any
The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are
WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, the sole responsibility of the rider.
if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
A special note for parents:
The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities
CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, and safety of your minor child, and that includes making sure
if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good
alert against unsafe practices. repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child
have learned and understand the safe operation of the bi-
The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol cycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand
indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could result in and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle,

bicycle and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of 1. First
safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its en-
this manual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s tirety before your first ride. At the very least, read and make
functions and operating procedures with your child, before sure that you understand each point in this section, and refer
letting your child ride the bicycle. to the cited sections on any issue which you don’t complete-
ly understand. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an features described in this Manual. Ask your dealer to point
approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also make sure out the features of your bicycle.
that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for
bicycling only, and must be removed when not riding. A A. Bike fit
helmet must not be worn while playing, in play areas, on 1. Is your bike the right size? If your bicycle is too large or
playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time too small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your
while not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning new bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to ex-
could result in serious injury or death. change it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see SeIf you
WARNING: If you intend to put a child-seat on your Bicycle, adjust your saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion
you will need to completely enclose any coil springs under instructions in Section 3.B
the saddle with a suitable covering to prevent the pinching 3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctly
or trapping of the child passenger’s fingers. tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any
direction. See Section 3.B
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you?
If not, see Section 3.C
16

5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for
may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See Section use, adjustment and care.
3.D and 3.E 5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicy- your toe or toe clip may be able to contact the front
cle? If not, before your first ride, have your dealer explain wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel
any functions or features which you do not understand. is turned. Read Section 4.E. to check whether you have
toeclip overlap.
B. Safety first 6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, 4.F. Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs.
and follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, Follow the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for
use and care. use, adjustment and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended
safety equipment? See Section 2. It’s your responsibility C. Mechanical Safety Check
to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every
you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws. ride. Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manu-
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear facturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes
wheels? Check Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with made in a variety of materials, often differing by model and
an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be
wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause seri- generalized. To make sure that the many fasteners on your
ous injury or death. bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque
4. f your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) Specifications in Appendix C of this manual or to the torque
pedals, make sure you know how they work (see Sec- specifications in the instructions provided by the manufac-
tion 4.E). These pedals require special techniques and turer of the component in question. Correctly tightening a
17

fastener requires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated. Check
bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should torque the by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection
fasteners on you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on
bicycle, you must use a torque wrench and the correct tight- the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what you
ening torque specifications from the bicycle or component see with how it looks when you know the tires are correctly
manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an inflated; and adjust if necessary. Tires in good shape? Spin
adjustment at home or in the field, we urge you to exercise each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and side-
care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by wall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike. Wheels
your dealer as soon as possible. true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and
side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even
WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners –nuts, slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike
bolts, screws– on your bicycle is important. Too little to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
force, and the fastener may not hold securely. Too much
force, and the fastener can strip threads, stretch, deform CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work
or break. Either way, incorrect tightening force can result effectively. Wheel trueing is a skill which requires spe-
in component failure, which can cause you to lose control cial tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel
and fall. Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off unless you have the knowledge, experience and tools
the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on needed to do the job correctly.
the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual
and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are
or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, if you have rim
someone with experience to check. brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that
any rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on
18

the wheel rim. Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear
wheels are correctly secured.
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask seatpost: If your seatpost has an over-center cam action
your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims have a fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it is properly
rim wear indicator which becomes visible as the rim’s brak- adjusted and in the locked position.
ing surface wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle
of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel rim has and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s center line and
reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at clamped tight enough so that you can’t twist them out of
the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which alignment.
can cause you to lose control and fall. Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure
and in good condition. If not, have your dealer replace them.
Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation Squeeze Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged.
the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All If not, have your dealer plug them before you ride. If the
control cables seated and securely engaged? If you have rim handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they are
brakes, do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
and make full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin to
engage within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or exten-
apply full braking force at the levers without having them sions can cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged
touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. handlebars or extensions can cut you and cause serious
Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by injury in an otherwise minor accident.
a professional bicycle mechanic.
19

VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
important information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its
components in Appendix B. Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check
the comfort. If you have any questions, or if you feel anything
D. First ride about the bike is not as it should be, consult your dealer
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first famil- before you ride again.
iarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick a con-
trolled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles
or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls,
features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike. Test

the brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the
rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden
or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you
over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a
wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skid-
ding is an example of what can happen when a wheel locks
up.
Practice shifting the gears. Remember to never move the

shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards
20

2. Safety 2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
A. The Basics before you get on a Bike.
WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specific 3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle:
safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals (Section 4.E.); shifting (Sec-
with the laws of the area where you ride and to comply with tion 4.D.)
all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and 4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away
your bike as the law requires. from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the moving chain, the
turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe your bicycle.
regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding 5. Always wear:
on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, helmet • Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle traffic laws. It’s your pedals. Make sure that shoe laces cannot get into
responsibility to know and obey the law movin parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at
certification standards and is appropriate for the type of the side of the road or trail.
riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s • Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt,
instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most dust and bugs — tinted when the sun is bright, clear-
serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might when it’s not.
have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate
helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may
result in serious injury or death.
21

6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a • Potholes, sewer grates, railroad tracks, expansion
BMX or mountain bike, can be fun; but it can put huge joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and
and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and its compo- other obstructions that could cause you to swerve
nents. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk seri- into traffic, catch your wheel or cause you to have an
ous damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. accident.
Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with • The many other hazards and distractions which can
your bike, read and understand Section 2.F. occur on a bicycle ride.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed 5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths
means higher risk. or as close to the edge of the road as possible, in the
direction of traffic flow or as directed by local governing
B. Riding Safety laws.
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local traffic laws. 6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motor- both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bi-
ists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights. cycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
you. 7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid: 8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concen-
your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you. trating on what’s going on around you, and their wires
• Parked car doors opening. can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing
• Pedestrians stepping out. you to lose control.
• Children or pets playing near the road. 9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing
an approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted
22

child carrier or a child-carrying trailer. C. Off Road Safety
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless
complete control of the bicycle, or which could become they are accompanied by an adult.
entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle. 1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do require close attention and specific skills. Start slowly
stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bike de- on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike
spite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill, Stunt has suspension, the increased speed you may develop
or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your also increases your risk of losing control and falling. Get
skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with to know how to handle your bike safely before trying
this kind of riding. increased speed or more difficult terrain.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may 2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you
surprise people with whom you are sharing the road. plan to do.
14. Observe and yield the right of way. 3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of others, make sure that someone knows where you’re
alcohol or drugs. going and when you expect to be back.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is 4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that
obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when ex- people know who you are in case of an accident; and
tremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk take along some cash for food, a cool drink or an emer-
of accident. gency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a
way that does not frighten or endanger them, and give
them enough room so that their unexpected moves
23

don’t endanger you. brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re rid- road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly
ing off-road, help may not be close. as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop
your bike, read and understand Section 2.F. safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your
brakes earlier and more gradually than you would under
Off Road Respect normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride
off-road, and respect private property. You may be sharing E. Night Riding
the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists. Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding
Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and
contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at
sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the
or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is your respon- greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night
sibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Leave need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized
things as you found them; and always take out everything equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer
you brought in. about night riding safety equipment.
D. Wet Weather Riding WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and vis- lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of
ibility, both for the bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the poor visibility without an adequate bicycle lighting system
road. The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in wet and without reflectors is dangerous and may result in seri-
conditions. Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your ous injury or death. Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick
24

up and reflect car lights and street lights in a way that may If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility,
help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. check and be sure you comply with all local laws about night
riding, and take the following strongly recommended a
CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets ditional precautions:
regularly to make sure that they are clean, straight, un-
broken and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace • Purchase and install battery or generator powered head
damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are and tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements
bent or loose. The mounting brackets of front and rear re- and provide adequate visibility.
flectors are often designed as brake straddle cable safety • Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories,
catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands,
the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks. reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached
to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device
WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or or light source that moves will help you get the attention
reflector brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
part of the bicycle’s safety system. Removing the reflectors • Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying
reduces your visibility to others using the roadway. Be- on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light.
ing struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or • Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly
death. The reflector brackets may protect you from a brake positioned and securely mounted reflectors.
straddle cable catching on the tire in the event of brake
cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to lose • Ride slowly.
control and fall. • Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traf-
fic.
25

• Avoid road hazards. When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved
• If possible, ride on familiar routes. by motorcycles, and therefore face similar hazards and
risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected
If riding in traffic: by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condi-
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and tion. Consult with expert riders, area site personnel and
predict your movements. race officials on conditions and equipment advisable at the
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected site where you plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear,
• If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask your dealer about including an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and
traffic safety classes or a good book on bicycle traffic body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper
safety. equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, articles about bicycling depict riders engaged in extreme
Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing or something else: if riding, this activity is extremely dangerous, increases your
you engage in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding you will risk of injury or death, and increases the severity of any
get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk injury. Remember that the action depicted is being per-
of injury or death. formed by professionals with many years of training and
experience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and and other appropriate safety gear. Even with state-of-the-
those that are may not be suitable for all types of aggressive art protective safety gear, you could be seriously injured or
riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed
about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in ex- or in competition.
treme riding.
26

WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
regard to strength and integrity, and this type of riding can There are many components and accessories available to
exceed those limitations. enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your
bicycle. However, if you change components or add ac-
We recommend against this type of riding because of the cessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manu-
increased risks; but if you choose to take the risk, at least: facturer may not have tested that component or accessory
• Take lessons from a competent instructor first. for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop installing any component or accessory, including a different
your skills before trying more difficult or dangerous rid- size tire, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by
ing. checking with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or follow the instructions that accompany the products you
fast downhill riding. purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix A.
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety
gear. WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install,
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on operate and maintain any component or accessory can
your bike by this kind of activity may break or damage result in serious injury or death.
parts of the bicycle and void the warranty.
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or WARNING: Changing the components on your bike with
bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is dam- other than genuine replacement parts may compromise
aged. the safety of your bicycle and may void the warranty.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in com- Check with your dealer before changing the components
petition, know the limits of your skill and experience. Ulti- on your bike.
mately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
27

3. Fit only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling you a minimum standover height clearance of two inches (5
safety, performance and comfort. Making the adjustments cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give
to your bicycle which result in correct fit for your body and you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height
riding conditions requires experience, skill and special clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off road should give you
tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools,
have your dealer check your work before riding. 2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-
WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension is determined
lose control and fall. If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your
dealer to exchange it before you ride it. saddle position as described in B without exceeding the
limits set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the
A. Standover height ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark on the
1. Diamond frame bicycles seatpost.
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see ). It
is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle’s
frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the
bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike
while wearing the kind of shoes in which
you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your
crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t
even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride
28

B. Saddle position • re-tighten the seatpost clamp to the recommend-
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting edtorque.
the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the • Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure
saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer. that the seatpost does not project from the frame
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions: beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Exten-
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct sadddle- sion” mark.
height:
• sit on the saddle; WARNING: If your seatpost is not inserted in the seat tube as
• place one heel on a pedal; described in B.1 above, the seatpost may break, which could
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is cause you to lose control and fall.
in the down position and the crank arm is parallel to
the seat tube. If your leg is not completely straight, 2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted
your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips forward or back to help you get the optimal position
must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your
is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this
heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low. Ask your adjustment. If you choose to make your own front and
dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding posi- back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism
tion and to show you how to make this adjustment. is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and
If you choose to make your own saddle height adjustment: is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you
• loosen the seatpost clamp are using the recommended torque on the clamping
• raise or lower the seatpost in the seat tube fastener(s).
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
29

3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat-
saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up post, the suspension mechanism may require periodic
or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended
or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your service intervals for your suspension seatpost.
own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single
bolt saddle clamp on your seatpost, it is critical that you Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial ef-
loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations fect on performance and comfort. To find your best saddle
on the mechanism to disengage before changing the position, make only one adjustment at a time.
saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-
engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recom- WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that
mended torque. the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly seated and
tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or seatpost
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a clamp can cause damage to the seatpost, or can cause
single bolt saddle clamp, always check to make sure that you to lose control and fall. A correctly tightened saddle
the serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp are not adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement in
worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the
to move, causing you to lose control and fall. Always tight- saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
en fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight
can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and
and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you
the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall. may need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people,
come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your
dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly
30

adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable. self, as it requires special knowledge.
WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended rid- WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem
ing with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, lock-
does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause ing the front brake or creating excess cable slack which
short-term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels, can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake
or even impotence. If your saddle causes you pain, numb- pads move in towards the wheel rim or out away from
ness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop rid- the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is changed,
ing until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the
different saddle. bicycle.
C. Handlebar height and angle Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem.
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer
clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, or with a “quill” to show you how to adjust if. Do not attempt to make the ad-
stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an ex- justment yourself, as changing stem angle may also require
panding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which type adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
of stem your bike has, ask your dealer.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem your dealer may be able Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that
to change handlebar height by moving height adjustment are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can
spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose
versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different length control and fall. Your dealer can also change the angle of
or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this your the handlebar or bar end extensions.
31

WARNING: An insufficiently tightened stem clamp bolt, WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more criti-
handlebar clamp bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt cal it is to have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking
may compromise steering action, which could cause you power can be applied within available brake lever travel.
to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle Brake lever travel insufficient to apply full braking power can
between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/ result in loss of control, which may result in serious injury or
stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the death.
front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or
turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar,
the bolts are insufficiently tightened.
D. Control position adjustments

The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their posi-
tion on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to
make the adjustments for you. If you choose to make your
own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to retighten the
clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix C or
the manufacturer’s instructions).
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for
reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze
the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit
shorter reach brake levers.
32

4. Tech It is very important that you understand the type of wheel
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to securing method on your bicycle, that you know how to
understand how things work on your bicycle. We urge you secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply
to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel.
section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and
your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you installation, and ask him to give you any available manufac-
have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand turer’s Instructions.
something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer.
See also Appendix A, B, and C. WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can
allow the wheel to wobble or fall off the bicycle, which can
A. Wheels cause serious injury or death. Therefore, it is essential that
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier you:
transportation and for repair of a tire puncture. In most cases,
the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in 1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to
the fork and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes use install and remove your wheels safely.
what is called a “through axle” wheel mounting system. 2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping
your wheel in place.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways: 3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it is securely clamped. The clamping action of a correctly
which has an adjustable tension nut on one end and an secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of the drop-
over-center cam on the other (cam action system) outs.
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded onto or
into the hub axle (bolton wheel)
33

1. Secondary Retention Devices 2. Wheels with cam action systems
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel re-
wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel tention mechanisms: the traditional over-center cam and the
disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. cam-and-cup system. Both use an over-center cam action to
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly clamp the bike’s wheel in place.
securing your front wheel. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories: • The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the
• The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the over-center cam pushing against one dropout and
outer faces of the front fork dropouts. Ask your dealer pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,
to explain the particular secondary retention device on against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force
your bike. is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the
tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary reten- lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning
tion device. As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from
critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured correctly, the rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of
secondary retention device can reduce the risk of the wheel the tension adjusting nut can make the difference be-
disengaging from the fork. Removing or tween safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
disabling the secondary retention device may also void the
warranty. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to
for correctly securing your wheel. Failure to properly secure clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand
the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until
which could cause you to lose control and fall, resulting in everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp a cam
serious injury or death. action wheel safely in the dropouts.
34

3. Removing and Installing wheels b. Installing a disk brake Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be
touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, careful not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when
and both rotor and caliper can get very hot during use. re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk
brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in
a. Removing a disk brake Front Wheel the caliper.
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the (1) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasten-
cam lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN ers to the torque specifications in Appendix C or the hub
position. If your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel manufacturer’s instructions.
retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns counter-clock- NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot
wise using an appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade,
lever. return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
(2). If your front fork has an integral secondary retention de- adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tight-
vice, and a traditional cam action system loosen the tension ening the lever again.
adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel from the (2) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasten-
dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, ers to the torque specifications in Appendix C or the hub
squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing the manufacturer’s instructions. WARNING: Securely clamping
wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and- the wheel with a cam action retention device takes con-
cup system. You may need to tap the top of the wheel with siderable force. If you can fully close the cam lever without
the palm of your hand to release the wheel from the front wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, the
fork. lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand,
and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the
surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the
35

lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
then try again. CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be
(3) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the careful not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when
frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk
lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly. brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in
the caliper.
c. Removing a disk brake Rear Wheel (1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to the
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear OPEN position. The lever should be on the side of the wheel
system: shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
outermost rear sprocket). (2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is
(2) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back still in its outermost, high gear, position; then pull the derail-
with your right hand. leur body back with your right hand. Put the chain on top of
(3) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release the smallest freewheel sprocket.
lever to the OPEN position. With a through bolt or bolt on (3) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it
mechanism, loosen the fastener(s) with an appropriate all the way into the dropouts.
wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push the wheel (4) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards
forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the and swing it into the CLOSED position. The lever should now
rear sprocket. be parallel to the seat stay or chain stay and curved toward
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and re- the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have
move it from the rear dropouts. to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and
the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand.
(5) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasten-
36

ers to the torque specifications in Appendix C or the hub B. Seatpost cam action clamp
manufacturer’s instructions. Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seatpost binder.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot The seatpost cam action binder works exactly like the tradi-
be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the seat stay tional wheel cam action fastener. While a cam action binder
or chain stay, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on
turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to firmly
turn and try tightening the lever again. clamp the seatpost. WARNING: Riding with an improperly
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action tightened seatpost can allow the saddle to turn or move and
retention device takes considerable force. If you can fully cause you to lose control and fall.
close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around Therefore:
the seat stay or chain stay for leverage, the lever does not 1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to
leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serra- correctly clamp your seatpost.
tions on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of 2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamp-
the dropouts, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn ing your seatpost.
the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try 3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is
again. securely clamped.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in Adjusting the seatpost cam action mechanism
3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to- The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the
rim clearance. seatpost to hold the seatpost securely in place. The amount
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut.
frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly. the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
37

turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from C. Brakes
rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes,
tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe which operate by squeezing the wheel rim between two
and unsafe clamping force. brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by squeezing a
hub-mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to hub brakes. All three can be operated by way of a handlebar
clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand mounted lever.
and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand WARNING:
until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp 1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn brake
the seatpost safely. WARNING: If you can fully close the cam pads, or wheels on which the rim wear mark is visible is
lever without wrapping your fingers around the seatpost or a dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear 2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up
imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may
quarter turn; then try again. pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in
serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes are extremely
powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with these
brakes and exercise particular care when using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake force
modulator, as mall, cylindrical device through which the
brake control cable runs and which is designed to pro-
vide a more progressive application of braking force.
38

A modulator makes the initial brake lever force more engages. Now do the same with the other brake lever.
gentle, progressively increasing force until full force is
achieved. If your bike is equipped with a brake force Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake
modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar with its levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate
performance characteristics. the levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a
Be careful not to touch a disc brake until it has had different brake lever design.
plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for opera- 2. How brakes work
tion and care of your brakes, and for when brake pads The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction
must be replaced. If you do not have the manufacturer’s between the braking surfaces. To make sure that you have
instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake manu- maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake
facturer. pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and free of dirt,
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufac- lubricants, waxes or polishes. Brakes are designed to control
turer-approved genuine replacement parts. your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force
for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel
1. Brake controls and features “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remem- skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
ber which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. directional control. You need to practice slowing and stop-
Traditionally, the right brake lever controls the rear brake ping smoothly without locking up a wheel.
and the left brake lever controls the front brake; but, to make
sure your bike’s brakes are set up this way, squeeze one The technique is called progressive brake modulation. In-
brake lever and look to see which brake, front or rear, stead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you
39

think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the. Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are
lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weight
the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front
keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. suspension fork. Practice braking and weight transfer tech-
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever niques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distrac-
pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on tions. Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces
different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a or in wet weather. It will take longer to stop on loose surfaces
little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels
pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks. have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up
with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on
but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel
(or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which D. Shifting gears
could send you flying over the handlebars). A wheel with Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain or, in
more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before some special cases, a combination of the two.
lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake How a derailleur drivetrain works
pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is trans- If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing
ferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear mechanism will have:
of the bike, to transfer weight back onto the rear wheel; • a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear brak- • a rear derailleur
ing and increase front braking force. This is even more im- • usually a front derailleur
portant on descents, because descents shift weight forward. • one or two shifters
40

• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them
• a drive chain requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter dis-
tance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain
a. Shifting Gears from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprock-
There are several different types and styles of shifting con- et results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger
trols: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shift/brake con- sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order
trols and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to explain the type of for the derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket to
shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show you how another, the rider must be pedaling forward.
they work. The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confus-
ing. A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or “slower” gear, one c. What if it won’t shift gears?
which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “higher” or If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result
“faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer
happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instruc- to have it adjusted.
tions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur.
d. Which gear should I be in?
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest speed. Shifting
function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear
one gear sprocket to another. The smaller sprockets on (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster”
the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not
higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “start-
greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. ing gear” for the conditions — a gear which is hard enough
41

for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a
a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting turn.
and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose con-
practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or trol and fall. Ask your dealer to help you determine if
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal
anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before design and shoes you will use results in pedal overlap.
the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the
problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when mak-
for help. ing sharp turns.
e. What if it won’t shift gears? 2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These
in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip
mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle
to have it adjusted. has this type of high performance pedal, you must take
extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp
E. Pedals surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to
when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number
in the forwardmost position. This is common on small- of options and make suitable recommendations.
framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside
pedal up and the outside pedal down when making 3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly
sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip
42

positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, 4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are
which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, another means to keep feet securely in the correct posi-
when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout tion for maximum pedaling efficiency. They have a plate,
the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into
give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only
effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with engage or disengage with a very specific motion which
toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Clipless-
work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts which pedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible
might make it more difficult for you to insert or remove with the make and model pedal being used. Many clip-
your foot should not be used with toeclips and straps. less pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the
amount of force needed to engage or disengage the
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask
and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment.
practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengag-
requires concentration which can distract your attention ing becomes a reflex action, but always make sure that
and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice the use there is sufficient tension to prevent unintended release
of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, haz- of your foot from the pedal.
ards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten
them until your technique and confidence in getting in WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust
and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic the suspension system may result in suspension mal-
with your toe straps tight. function, which may cause you to lose control and fall.If
your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may
develop also increases your risk of injury. For example,
43

when braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You tire. The part of this information which is most important
could lose control and fall if you do not have experience to you is Tire Pressure.
with this system.
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum
WARNING: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the
some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting recommended maximum pressure may blow the tire
a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and
manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is injury to the rider and bystanders. The best and safest
compatible with the bicycle’s design. Failing to do so can way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with
result in catastrophic frame failure. a bicycle pump which has a built-in pressure gauge.
F. Tires and Tubes WARNING: There is a safety risk in using gas station air
1. Tires hoses or other air compressors. They are not made for
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifi- bicycle tires. They move a large volume of air very rap-
cations, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires idly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly,
designed to perform best under very specific weather which could cause the tube to explode. Tire pressure
or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure
with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might range. How a tire performs under different terrain or
better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure.
select the most appropriate design. The size, pressure Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended
rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance; but also
recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on
smooth, dry pavement. Very low pressures, at the
44

bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the 2. Tires Valves
best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard- There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The
packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump
dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve
and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the stems on your bicycle.
tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch
the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface. The Schraeder valve is like the valve on a car tire. To in-
flate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be clamp the pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem.
inaccurate and should not be relied upon for consistent, To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the
accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other ap-
dial gauge. Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire propriate object.
pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do, and
have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then, The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only
check inflation so you’ll know how correctly inflated found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube
tires should look and feel when you don’t have access using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve
to a gauge. Some tires may need to be brought up to cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock
pressure every week or two, so it is important to check nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then
your tire pressures before every ride. Some special high- push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate.
performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread To inflate a Presta valve with a Schraeder pump fitting,
pattern is designed to work better in one direction than you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop)
in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up
will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. the valve. The adapter fits into the Schraeder pump
45

fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of maintenance requirements.
a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and
dpress the valve stem. WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require
special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments
WARNING: We highly recommend that you carry a spare or service on your bicycle until you have learned from your
inner tube when you ride your bike. Patching a tube is an dealer how to properly complete them. Improper adjustment
emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch correctly or service may result in damage to the bicycle or in an ac-
or apply several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in cident which can cause serious injury or death.
possible tube failure, which could cause you to lose con- If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on
trol and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as possible. your bike:
5. Service 1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installa-

WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and tion and service instructions for the components on your
bicycle components more complex, and the pace of innova- bike, or contact the component manufacturer.
tion is increasing. It is impossible for this manual to provide 2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
all the information required to properly repair and/or maintain 3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair
your bicycle. In order to help minimize the chances of an courses in your area.
accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have any re-
pair or maintenance which is not specifically described in this We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality
manual performed by your dealer. Equally important is that of your work the first time you work on something and before
your individual maintenance requirements will be determined you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did everything
by everything from your riding style to geographic location. correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there
Consult your dealer for help in determining your may be a modest charge for this service.
46

parts, such as inner tubes, light bulbs, etc. it would be appro- perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and repair
priate for you to have once you have learned how to replace should be per formed in a properly equipped facility by a
such parts when they require replacement. qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and proce
dures specified by the manufacturer.
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installa- 1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better
tion and service instructions for the components on your if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and
bike, or contact the component manufacturer. wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair. used and may require readjustment by your dealer. Your
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair Mechanical Safety Check will help you identify some things
courses in your area. that need readjustment. But even if everything seems fine
to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the dealer for a
We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality checkup. Dealers typically suggest you bring the bike in for
of your work the first time you work on something and before a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for
you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did everything the first check up is to bring the bike in after three to five
correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there hours of hard off-road use,or about 10 to 15 hours of on-road
may be a modest charge for this service. or more casual off-road use. But if you think something is
wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer before riding it
A. Service Intervals again.
Some service and maintenance can and should be per
formed by the owner, and require no special tools or knowl 2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check
edge beyond what is presented in this manual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should
47

3. After every long or hard ride: If the bike has been ex • Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or
posed to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the
bike and lightly lubricate the chain’s rollers with a good qual dealer adjust or replace them.
ity bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant with a • Carefully check the control cables and cable housings.
lint free cloth. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace
dealer about the best lubricants and the recommended lubri them.
cation frequency for your area. • Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of
each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, have your
hours of riding: dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness.
• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and • Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have
back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each your dealer replace them if necessary.
forward or backward movement of the bike, you prob- • Check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and
ably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it. scratches. Consult your dealer if you see any rim dam-
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side age.
to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or rough- • Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are
ness in the steering, you may have a tight headset. Have still secure, and tighten any which are not.
your dealer check it. • Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the joints; the handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any
centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other deep scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs
pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the
it. end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also
48

Appendix A Industry usage conditions are generalized and evolving.
Intended use of your bicycle Consult yourdealer about how you intend to use your bike.
WARNING: Understand your bike and its intended use.
Choosing the wrong bicycle for your purpose can be hazard High-Performance Road
ous. Using your bike the wrong way is dangerous. CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires
No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer do not lose ground contact.
can help you pick the “right tool for the job” and help you INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only.
understand its limitations. There are many types of bicycles NOT INTENDED For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with
and many variations within each type. There are many types racks or panniers.
of mountain, road, racing, hybrid, touring, cyclocross and TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver both
tandem bicycles. There are also bicycles that mix features. light weight and specific performance. You must understand
For example, there are road/racing bikes with triple cranks. that (1) these types of bikes are intended to give an aggres
These bikes have the low gearing of a touring bike, the sive racer or competitive cyclist a performance advantage
quick handling of a racing bike, but are not well suited for over a relatively short product life, (2) a less aggressive
carrying heavy loads on a tour. For that purpose you want a rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing light
touring bike. Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize weight (shorter frame life) over more frame weight and a
for certain purposes. Visit your bicycle shop and find some longer frame life, (4) you are choosing light weight over more
one with expertise in the area that interests you. Do your dent resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All frames
own homework. Seemingly small changes such as the that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames
choice of tires can improve or diminish the performance of a are likely to be damaged or broken in a crash. They are not
bicycle for a certain purpose. On the following pages, we designed to take abuse or be a rugged workhorse. See also
generally outline the intended uses of various types of bikes. Appendix B.
49

General Purpose Riding Appendix B
CONDITION 2 The lifespan of your bike and its components
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel 1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike.
roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the When the useful life of your bike or its components is
tires do not lose ground contact. over, continued use is hazardous. Every bicycle and its
INTENDED For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The
good condition, and bike paths. length of that life will vary with the construction and
NOT INTENDED For off-road or mountain bike use, or for materials used in the frame and components; the mainte-
any kind of jumping. Some of these bikes have suspension nance and care the frame and components receive over
features, but these features are designed to add comfort, not their life; and the type and amount of use to which the
off-road capability. Some come with relatively wide tires that frame and components are subjected. Use in competi-
are well suited to gravel or dirt paths. Some come with rela tive events, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive
tively narrow tires that are best suited to faster riding on riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates,
pavement. If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other
loads or want more tire durability talk to your dealer about types of non-standard use can dramatically shorten the
wider tires. life of the frame and components. Any one or a combi-
nation of these conditions may result in an unpredictable
failure. All aspects of use being identical, lightweight
bicycles and their components will usually have a shorter
life than heavier bicycles and their components. In
selecting a lightweight bicycle or components you are
making a tradeoff, favoring the higher performance that
comes with lighter weight over longevity. So, If you
50

choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be A. Understanding metals
sure to have it inspected frequently. You should have Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It
your bicycle and its components checked periodically has good characteristics, but in high performance bicycles,
by your dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential steel has been largely replaced by aluminum and some tita
failure, including cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint nium. The main factor driving this change is interest by cy
peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential cling enthusiasts in lighter bicycles.
problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are impor-
tant safety checks and very important to help prevent ac- Properties of Metals
cidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened product Please understand that there is no simple statement that can
life. be made that characterizes the use of different metals for
bicycles. What is true is how the metal chosen is applied is
2. Perspective much more important than the material alone. One must look
Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and at the way the bike is designed, tested, manufactured, sup
careful inspection and service. In this Appendix we try ported along with the characteristics of the metal rather than
to explain some underlying material science basics and seeking a simplistic answer. Metals vary widely in their resis
how they relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the tance to corrosion. Steel must be protected or rust will attack
trade-offs made in designing your bicycle and what you it. Aluminum and Titanium quickly develop an oxide film that
can expect from your bicycle; and we provide important, protects the metal from further corrosion. Both are therefore
basic guidelines on how to maintain and inspect it. We quite resistant to corrosion. Aluminum is not perfectly corro
cannot teach you everything you need to know to prop- sion resistant, and particular care must be used where it con
erly inspect and service your bicycle; and that is why we tacts other metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to your dealer Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending,
for professional care and attention. buckling and stretching before breaking. Generally speaking,
51

of the common bicycle frame building materials steel is the bike, the steel fork may be severely bent and the frame
most ductile, titanium less ductile, followed by aluminum. undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile than steel, but you can
expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit harder
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. and the top tube may be broken in tension and the down
Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), tube buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken,
titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Con the down tube buckled and broken, leaving the head tub
trast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 and fork separated from the main triangle.
grams/Cm3. Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough
cycles of use, at high enough loads, metals will eventually When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some ev
develop cracks that lead to failure. It is very important that dence of this ductility in bent, buckled or folded metal. It is
you read The basics of metal fatigue below. now common for the main frame to be made of metal and
the fork of carbon fiber. See Section B, Understanding com
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or posites below. The relative ductility of metals and the lack of
other object. At any speed above a fast walk, your body will ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash scenario you
continue to move forward, momentum carrying you over can expect some bending or bucking in the metal but none
the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike, in the carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be
and what happens to the frame, fork and other components intact even though the frame is damaged. Above some load
is irrelevant to what happens to your body. the carbon fork will be completely broken.
What should you expect from your metal frame? It depends
on many complex factors, which is why we tell you that The basics of metal fatigue
crashworthiness cannot be a design criteria. With that im Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever.
portant note, we can tell you that if the impact is hard The more you use something, and the harder you use it, and
enough the fork or frame may be bent or buckled. On a steel the worse the conditions you use it in, the shorter its life.
52

Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to sold today. So we all make a tradeoff: the wonderful, light
a part caused by repeated loading. To cause fatigue dam weight performance we want requires that we inspect the
age, the load the part receives must be great enough. A structure.
crude, often-used example is bending a paper clip back and
forth (repeated loading) until it breaks. This simple definition What to look for
will help you understand that fatigue has nothing to do with • ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND GROW
time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not fatigue. Fatigue FAST. Think about the crack as forming a pathway to
happens only through use. failure. This means that any crack is potentially danger-
ous and will only become more dangerous.
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On a micro SIMPLE RULE 1 : If you find crack, replace the part.
scopic level, a crack forms in a highly stressed area. As the
load is repeatedly applied, the crack grows. At some point • CORROSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow more
the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it quickly when they are in a corrosive environment. Think
becomes so large that the part is too weak to carry the load about the corrosive solution as further weakening
that it could carry without the crack. At that point there can and extending the crack.
be a complete and immediate failure of the part. SIMPLE RULE 2 : Clean your bike, lubricate your bike,
protect your bike from salt, remove any salt
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is \\ as soon as you can
nearly infinite. This requires a lot of material and a lot of
weight. Any structure that must be light and strong will have • STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEAR
a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all have A CRACK. Such staining may be a warning sign that a
parts with finite fatigue lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an crack exists.
infinite fatigue life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle
53

SIMPLE RULE 3 : Inspect and investigate any staining to In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that
see if it is associated with a crack. the part has been worn out, a sign the part has reached the
end of its useful life. When your car tires wear down to the
• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS OR point that the tread bars are contacting the road, those tires
SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS FOR CRACKS. are not defective. Those tires are worn out and the tread bar
Think about the cut surface as a focal point for says “time for replacement.” When a metal part shows a
stress (in fact engineers call such areas “stress ris- fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “time for replace
ers,” areas where the stress is increased). Perhaps ment.”
you have seen glass cut? Recall how the glass
was scored and then broke on the scored line. Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science
SIMPLE RULE 4 : Do not scratch, gouge or score any Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here a
surface. If you do, pay frequent re some general factors to help you and your dealer deter
mine how often your bicycle should be inspected. The
• SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY more you fit the “shorten product life” profile, the more
MAKECREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE. Think frequent your need to inspect. The more you fit the “length
about such a noise as a serious warning sig- en product life” profile, the less frequent your need to in
nal. Note that a wellmaintained bicycle will be spect.
very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.
SIMPLE RULE 5 : Investigate and find the source of any Factors that shorten product life:
noise. It may not a be a crack, but whatever is causing • Hard, harsh riding style
the noise should be fixed promptly. • “Hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
• High mileage
54

• Higher body weight C. Understanding components
• Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider It is often necessary to remove and disassemble compo
• Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road salt, ac- nents in order to properly and carefully inspect them. This is
cumulated sweat) a job for a professional bicycle mechanic with the special
• Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding envi- tools, skills and experience to inspect and service today’s
ronment high-tech high-performance bicycles and their components.
• Factors that lengthen product life:
• Smooth, fluid riding style Aftermarket “Super Light” components
• No “hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike Think carefully about your rider profile as outlined above.
• Low mileage The more you fit the “shorten product life” profile, the more
• Lower body weight you must question the use of super light components. The
• Less aggressive rider more you fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the more
• Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air) likely it is that lighter components may be suitable for you.
• Clean riding environment Discuss your needs and your profile very honestly with your
dealer. Take these choices seriously and understand that
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any you are responsible for the changes.
crack, bulge or dent, even a small one. Riding a cracked A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contem
frame, fork or component could lead to complete failure, with plate changing components is “Strong, Light, Cheap –pick
risk of serious injury or death. two.”
Original Equipment components

Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life
of the components that are original equipment on your bike.
55

This means that they have met test criteria and have rea Appendix C
sonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the original com Fastener Torque Specifications
ponents will last forever. They won’t. Correct tightening torque of threaded fasteners is very
important to yours safety. Always tighten fastener to the cor
rect torque. In case of a conflict between the instructions in
this manual and information provided by a component manu
facturer, consult with your dealer or the manufacturer’s cus
tomer service representative for clarification. Bolts that are
too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can
move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure
of the bolt. Always use a correctly calibrated torque wrench
to tighten critical fasteners on your bike. Carefully follow the
torque wrench manufacturer’s instructions on the correct way
to set and use the torque wrench for accurate results.
FASTENER RECOMMENDED TORQUE

REAR HUB WHEELS = 44Nm
PEDALS = 35Nm
SEATPOST CLAMP = 7-8Nm
SADDLE CLAMP = 17-25Nm
STEERER CLAMP = 8-9Nm
HANDLEBAR CLAMP = 7-8Nm
CONTROL LEVER CLAMPS = 6-8Nm
56

Frequently Asked Questions
Please visit the Flash Help Center
http://support.flashbike.io for the most recent frequently
asked questions, how to videos and popular articles.
57

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READ THIS MANUAL FIRST

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Learn About Flash 01-02

Assembling Flash 04-05

Completing Account Setup 06-07

Riding Flash 08-11

Limited Warranty 12-13

Bicycle Owner's Manual 14-56

Frequently Asked Questions 57

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Seat post quick release

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Unwrapping the bike Download the Flash APP

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2. Assemble the front wheel on the bike’s front fork.

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5. Use a 15mm wrench to assemble the pedals. NOTE:

5 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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3. Pairing your bike with your Flash APP on your

6 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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7 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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8 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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9 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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How to use 7 speed shifter

2. To ride faster, press the + sign with your right thumb

10 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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How to Maintain & Service

11 It's easy: how to videos at http://support.flashbike.io

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Any claim against this warranty must be made through Flash.

Accessory items purchased as standalone products may be

To qualify for a full refund, all products must be in new, un-

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If you have any questions or do not understand something,

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Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike. Test

Practice shifting the gears. Remember to never move the

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