F o r m 20001

Form 20001
(347)
(347)

INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
F O R USING
FOR USING

SINGER
SINGER
ELECTRIC SEWING
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
MACHINE
15-90
15-90
R E V E R S I B L E FEED
REVERSIBLE FEED
L O C K STITCH,
LOCK S T I T C H , FOR
F O R FAMILY
F A M I L Y USE
USE

When Requiring
When Reqmring Look far
Look for the
the
Needles, Oil, Red "S"
Red "S"
Parts or
Parts or There are
There are
Repairs for
Repairs for Singer Shops
Singer Shops in
in
Yo«r Machine
Your MachiBe Every City
Every City

THE SINGER
THE SINGER MANUFACTURING
MANUFACTURING CO.

PRINTED I IN
PRINTED N UU.
. 8,
S.A.
•.
 THE IMPORTANCE
THE IMPORTANCE OF
OF USING
USING
SINGER'MUBRICANTS
"SINGER" FOR YOUR
LUBRICANTS FOR YOUR
ELECTRIC SEWING
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
MACHINE

"The Best
"The Best is
is the
the Cheapest"
Cheapest"

Use "SINGER"
Use "SINGER'* Oil
Oil on
on Machine
Machine
Knowing from
Knowing from many
many years'
years* experience
experience
the great
the great importance
importance ofof using
using good
good oil,
oil,
we put
we put upupan anextra
extraquality
qualitymachine
machine
oil, in
oil, in cans,
cans, especially
especially prepared
prepared for
for
sewing machines.
sewing machines.

Use "SINGER"
Use "SINGER'' Motor
Motor Lubricant
Lubricant on
on Motor
Motor
The "SINGER"
The " S I N G E R " Motor
Motor Lubricant
Lubricant isis
especially prepared
especially prepared for lubricating the
for lubricating the
bearings of
bearings of the
the electric.
electricmotor. This
motor. This
is aa pure
is pure non-flowing
non-flowing compound
compound which
which
retains its
retains its consistency
consistency andand possesses
possesses
high lubricating
high lubricating qualities.
qualities.

Copyright, TJ.
Copyright, 11 S.
S. A.,
A.,
1915, 1920,
1915, 1920. 1921,
1921, 1923,
1923, 1924,
1924, 1926,
1926, 1928,
1928, 1931,
1931, 1932,
1932,
1933, 1935,
1933, 1935, 1936,
1936, 1937,
1937, 1938,
1938, 1940,
1940, 1941
1941 and
and1946
1946
by The
by The Singer
Singer Manufacturing
Manufacturing Co.
Co.
All Rights
All Rights Reserved
Reserved for
for All
All Countries
Countries
 2^m

f INSTRUCTIONS F
INSTRUCTIONS

SINGER
SINGER
O R USING
FOR USING

ELECTRIC SEWING
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
MACHINE

15-90
15-90
REVERSIBLE FEED
REVERSIBLE FEED
OSCILLATING SHUTTLE.
OSCILLATING SHUTTLE, FOR FAMILY U
FOR FAMILY SE
USE

MACHINE 15-90|
MACHINE 15-90

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY
COMPANY
TO ALL
TO ALL WHOM
WHOM IT
I T MAY
M A YCONCERN:
CONCERN:

The placing
The placing or
or renewal
renewal of
of the
the Trade-Mark
Trade-Mark
**SINGER** or
"SINGER" or any
any other
other of
of the
the Trade-Marks
Trade-Marksof
of
The Singer
The Singer Manufacturing
Manufacturing Company
Company (all
(all of
of
which are
which are duly
duly Registered
Registered Trade-Marks) on any
Trade-Marks) on any
machine that
machine that has
has been
been repaired,
repaired, rebuilt,
rebuilt, recon-
recon-
ditioned, or
ditioned, or altered
altered in
in any
anyway
waywhatsoever
whatsoever
outside aa Singer
outside Singer factory
factory or
or an
an authorized Singer
authorized Singer
agency is
agency is forbidden.
forbidden.

Genuine "SINGER"
Genuine ^^SINGER'^ Needles
Needles should
should
be used
be used in
in "SINGER"
**SINGER'» Machines.
Machines.
These Needles
These Needles and
and their Containers
their Containers
are marked
are marked with
with the
the
Company^s Trade-Mark
Company's Trade-Mark "SIMANCO"
^^SIMANCO*^ 11

Needles in
Needles in Containers marked
Containers marked
" F O R SINGER
"FOR S I N G E R MACHINES"
MACHINES*'
are NOT
are NOT **SINGER''
"SINGER" mademade needles.
needles. 22
 DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Machine15-90,
Machine 15-90,for
forfamily
familyuse,
use,has
hasan anoscillating
oscillating
shuttleonona ahorizontal
shuttle horizontalaxisaxisand
andmakes
makesthethelock
lockstitch.
stitch.
ItI thashasreverse
reversefeeding
feedingmechanism
mechanism by bymeans
meansofof
which the
which themachine
machine stitches
stitches as
as readily
readilyinina areverse
reverse
directionas
direction asititdoes
doesininaaforward
forwarddirection.
direction.
ItI tisisespecially
especiallydesigned
designed forforoperation
operation by byelec-
elec-
tricity, having
tricity, having an an electric
electric motor
motor attached
attached to to the
the
upright part
upright partofofits
itsarm.
arm.TheThemotor
motordrives
drivesthethema-ma-
chine through
chine through aabelt.
belt.

ItI tisisalso
alsoequipped
equipped withwithananelectric
electricSingerlight.
Singeriight.
Before starting to darn
Before starting to darn ororembroider, embroider, makemake thethe
simple adjustment
simple adjustment on on the
themachine,
machine, as asinstructed
instructed
on page
on page33. 33.

" S I N G E R " SERVICE

"SINGER" SERVICE
Now that
Now thatyou
youhave have purchased
purchased youryour new
new ""SINGER,"
SINGER,"
we do
we do not
not want
want you you toto feel
feel that
thatyour
yourrelations
relations with
with
us have
us have come
come to to ananend.
end.You Y o uare
arecordially
cordiallyinvited
invited
to visit
to visit your
your "SINGER"
" S I N G E R "Shop Shopatatanyanytime
timefor
forassis-
assis-
tance in
tance inyour
yoursewing
sewing problems.
problems. You Y o u will
will be
be most
most
welcome.
welcome.
We hope,
We hope, too,
too, that you will
that you will make
make the "SINGER"
the "SINGER"
Shop your
Shop your headquarters
headquarters for forsewing
sewing supplies
supplies and
and ser-
ser-
vice. Only
vice. Only there
there ororthrough
throughauthorized
authorized bonded
bonded
" S I N G E R "representatives
"SINGER" representatives can canyou
yousecure
secure genuine
genuine
" S I N G E R " oil,
"SINGER" oil, needles,
needles, belts,
belts, parts,
parts, etc.,
etc., so
so im-
im-
portant in
portant in getting
getting the thebest
bestresults
resultsfrom
from your
your machine.
machine.
And remember,
And remember, only only anan authorized
authorized ""SINGER"
S I N G E R " rep-
rep-
resentative should
resentative should be be allowed
allowed to to touch
touch your
your machine
machine
when repairs
when repairs or or adjustments
adjustments are are required.
required.
World-wide " S I N G E R "
World-wide "SINGER" Service has no Service has no equal.
equal. Use
Use it!
it!
 44

Motor Canbe
Motor Can on Either
Operatedon
beOperated Alternating
Either Alternating
or Direct
Current or
Current Current
Direct Current

The electric
The 'motor,which
electric motor, located at
whichisislocated at the back
the back
of the
of machine,can
the machine, on either
operated on
be operated
canbe alternat-
either alternat-
current or
ing current
ing direct current,
or direct desired. The
as desired.
current, as The
standard windings
standard the motor
windingsofof the motor are for 110
are for volts,
110 volts,
and can be
motors can
and motors furnished for
be furnished for any voltage be-
any voltage be-
100 and
tween 100
tween 250.
and 250.
motorsfor
Special motors
Special 32 volts
for 32 direct current,
volts direct and
current, and
for 50
for volts alternating
50 volts current and
alternating current and direct current,
direct current,
have also been
have also developed and
been developed and are available.
are available.

to Determine
Points to
Points Connecting
Before Connecting
Determine Before
to Electric
Motor to
Motor Line
Service Line
Electric Service

Obtain the
Obtain following information from
the following'information Elec-
the Elec-
from the
tric Light
tric Company which
Light Company supphes the
which supplies electric
the electric
current for the
current for circuit to
the circuit to which motor is
the motor
which the to
is to
connected:
be connected:
be
If current
1. If
1. direct, what
is direct,
cui^rent is the voltage?
is the
what is The
voltage? The
voltage must
voltage must be within the
be within stamped on
range stamped
the range the
on the
plate of
name plate
name motor.
the motor.
of the
current is
If current
2. If
2. is alternating, addition to
in addition
alternating, in the
to the
what is
voltage, what
voltage, number of
the number
is the cycles? The
of cycles? number
Thenumber
of cycles must
of cycles must be within the
be within the range stamped on
range stamped the
on the
plate of
name plate
name motor.
the motor.
of the
voltage of
The voltage
The of any circuit and,
any circuit alternating
and, ififalternating
number of
the number
current, the
current, of cycles, be verified
can be
cycles, can by
verified by
at the
looking at
looking name plate
the name service watt
on service
plate on meter
wattmeter
installed by
installed the local
by the Electric Light
local Electric Company.
LightCompany.
 55
To Connect
To Connect thethe Machine
Machine to
to
Electric Service
Electric Service Line
Line
Push the
Push theterminal
terminalplug plug atatone
oneend
endofofthe
theelectric
electric
cord as
cord as fy,r
far as
as itit will
will go
go on
on the
thethree-pin
three-pinterminal
terminal
block at
block at the
the right
right ofof the
the machine.
machine. Attach
Attachthetheplug
plug
at the
at theother
otherendendofofthethecord
cordtotothethenearest
nearestelectric
electric
light socket
light socket and
and the themachine
machineisis ready
ready for
for operation.
operation.

To Insure
To Insure Perfect
Perfect Action
Action of
of the
the Machine
Machine
The balance
The balance wheel
wheel must
must always
always turn
turn over
over toward
toward
the operator.
the operator.
Do not
Do not run
runthethemachine
machine with
with the
the presser
presser foot
foot
resting on
resting on the
the feed
feed without
without cloth
cloth under
under the
thepresser.
presser
foot.
foot.
Do not
Do not run
runthe
themachine
machinewhen
when both
bothbobbin
bobbin case
case
and needle
and needle are
are threaded,
threaded, unless
unless there
there isis material
material
under the
under the presser
presser foot.
foot.
Do not
Do not try
tryto
tohelp
helpthethemachine
machine byby pulling
pulhng the
the
fabric, lest
fabric, lest you
you bend
bend the
the needle.
needle. The
Themachine
machinefeeds
feeds
the work
the work without
withoutassistance.
assistance.
The slide
The shde over
over the
the bobbin
bobbin case
case should
should be,
be kept
kept
closed when
closed when the machine is
the machine is in
in operation.
operation.

To Turn
To T u r n Singerlight
Singeriight "On"
" O n ' ' or
or "Off"
"Off"
Reach under
Reach under the
the machine
machine arm
arm andand move
move thethe
switch (A,
switch (A, Fig.
Fig. 2)
2) to
to the
the right
right or
or left
left as
as desired.
desired.

CAUTION
CAUTION
When you
When you have
have finished
finished your
your sewing,
sewing, always
always dis-
dis-
connect the
connect the plug
plug from
from the
the electric
electric socket.
socket.
 66

To Remove
To Remove and
and Replace
Replace the Bulb
the Bulb
Do not
Do not attempt
attempt to
to unscrew
unscrewthe
the bulb. I t is
bulb. It is of
of the
the
bayonet and
bayonet and socket
socket type
type and does not
and does not unscrew.
unscrew.

F I G . 22
FIG.

To remove
To remove thethe bulb. Having turned
bulb. Having turned the
the shade
shade
slightly, hold
slightly, hold the Singeriight socket
the Singerlight with one
socket with one hand
hand
and with
and with the other hand
the other hand press
press the bulb into
the bulb into the
the
socket and
socket and at the same
at the same time turn the
time turn the bulb
bulb over
over from
from
the machine
the machine as as far as itit will
far as will go,
go, then
thenwithdraw
withdraw
the bulb.
the bulb.
To insert
To insert aa new
new bulb.
bulb. Hold
Hold the
the socket
socket with
with oneone
hand and
hand and atat the
the same
same time
time with
with the
the other
other handhand
press the
press bulb into
the bulb into the socket and
the socket turn itit over
and turn over
toward the
toward the machine
machine until
until the bulb pin
the bulb pin (B,
( B , Fig.
Fig. 2)
2)
enters the
enters notch in
the notch in the socket, then
the socket, return the
then return the shade
shade
to its
to its normal
normal position,
position, as
as shown
shown in
in Fig.
Fig. 2.
2.
 7
To Operate
To Operate the
the Machine
Machine
Raisethe
Raise thepresser
presser foot
foot (B)
(B)by
bymeans
means of of the
thepresser
presser
bar lifter
bar hfter (C)
(C) to
to prevent
prevent injury
injury to
to the
the foot
foot (B)
(B) and
and
feed (A).
feed (A).

F I G . 3. FRONT
FIG. 3. FRONT VIEW
V I E W OF
OFTHE
THEMACHINE
IMACHINE

Place aa piece
Place piece of
cf cloth
cloth under
under the
the presser
presser foot
foot and
and
let the
let the foot
foot down
down upon
upon it.
it.
Turn on
Turn on the
the electric
electric current
current and
and press
press the
the knee
knee
controller to
controller to the
the right,
right, or
or press
press down
doAvn on
on the
the pedal
pedal of
of
the foot
the foot controller.
controller. AsAs the
thepressure
pressure on
on the
the controller
controller
is increased,
is increased, the speed of
the speed of the
the machine
machine isis increased,
increased,
the speed
the speed being
being controlled
controlled entirely
entirely by the amount
by the amount
of pressure
of pressure on on the controller. Operate
the controller. Operate the
the machine
machine
in this
in this way,
way, without
without being
being threaded, until you
threaded, until you have
have
become accustomed
become accustomedtoto guiding
guiding the material and
the material and
operating the
operating the controller.
controller.
 8
Remove the
To Remove
To Bobbin
the Bobbin
Turn the
Turn wheel over
balance wheel
the balance toward you
over toward until
you until
the thread
the (5, Fig.
lever (5,
take-up lever
thread take-up Fig. 12) is raised
12) is to
raised to

FIG. REMOVING
FIG.4.4.REMOVING THE CASE
BOBBINCABE
THEBOBBIN

position. Draw
highest position.
itshighest
its Draw to to the theslide
left the
the left in
slide in
bed of
the bed
the machine. Reach
themachine.
of the Reachdown downwith% the
with the
thumband
thumb forefinger of
andforefinger the left
of the open the
hand,open
left hand, bob-
thebob-
case latch
bin case
bin Fig. 4)
(A, Fig.
latch (A, outthe
lift out
and lift
4) and bobbin
thebobbin
While the
case. While
case. latchremains
the latch open, the
remains open, bobbin isis
thebobbin
inthe
retained in
retained bobbin case.
the bobbin Release the
case. Release the latch, turn
latch,turn
endof
openend
theopen
the thebobbin
of the downward and
casedownward
bobbin case the
and the
will drop
bobbinwill
bobbin out.
drop out.
Wind the
To Wind
To Bobbin
theBobbin
understand the
necessary totounderstand
ItI tisisnecessary motion
stopmotion
thestop
(C,Fig.
(C, Fig.5)5)by whichthe
bywhich wheel(B,
balance wheel
thebalance Fig.5)5)
( B ,Fig.
canbe
can bereleased when required,
released when permittingthe
thus permitting
required, thus the
winding of
winding bobbins without
of bobbins runningthe
without running stitching
thestitching
mechanism.
mechanism.
 99
Release
Release the
the balance
balance wheel
wheelbyby turning
turning the stop
the stop
motion
motion screw
screw (C)
(C) over
overtoward
towardyou. I t is
you. It is necessary
necessary
to hold
to hold the
the balance
balance wheel
wheel while
while loosening
loosening the the stop
stop
motion screw.
motion screw.

F I G . 5.
FIG. 5. WINDING
WINDINGTHE
THEBOBBIN
BOBBIN

Place
Place the bobbin on
the bobbin on the
the bobbin
bol)bin winder
wdnder spindle
spindle
and push
and push it it up
up closely
closely against
against the
the shoulder,
shoulder, having
having
the 'small
the small pin pin in
in the
the shoulder
shoulder enter
enter the
the hole
hole in the
in the
side of
side of the
the bobbin.
bobbin. Put Put the
the spool
spool of
of thread
thread on the
on the
spool pin
spool pin (1). Draw the
(1). Draw the thread
thread under
under andand between
between
the tension
the tension discs
discs (2)
(2) on the bed
on the bed ofof the
the machine,
machine,
then pass the thread up and through one
then pass the thread up and through one of the holes of the holes
(3) in
(3) the left
in the left side
side ofof the
the bobbin,
bobbin, from
from the
the inside.
inside.
Press down
Press down on on the bobbin and
the bobbin and the
the bobbin
bobbin winder
winder
latch (A)
latch ( A ) will
will drop
drop down
downand and hold
holdthe
the bobbin
bobbin winder
winder
pulley
pulley against
against the the hub
hub ofof the balance wheel.
the balance Then
wheel. Then
press the knee controller or the foot controller
press the knee controller or the foot controller the the
same as
same as for
for sewing.
sewing.
 10 10
The end of the thread must be i. :d by hand until
The
a fewend
coilsofare
the thread must be I. .d by hand until '.
wound
a few coils are wound andshould
and shouldthen
then
bebe broken
broken off.off.
When sufficient thread has been
been wound
wound upon
upon the
When sufficient thread has
bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically release the •
bobbin,
from the bobbin winder is automatically releasedd •
thebalance
from the balance wheel. wheel.

FIG. 6. ADJUSTMENT OP BOBBIN WINDER

FIGI. 6. ADJUSTMENT OF BOBBIN WINDER

If the pressur eof

of the
thebobbin
bobbinwinder
winderpulley
pulleyagainst
against
If the
the hubpressure
of the balanc
the ewheel
wheelisisinsufficient
insufficientfor for wind-
ing the bobbin, press down the bobbin windewind-
hub of the balance
ing
thethe bobbin,
latch press down the bobbin winderruntil
(A) drops
until
the down and andholds
holds it,it,then
thenloosen
loosen
thelatch
adjusti (A)ng drops
screwdown( F ) . With the forefinger, push
back
the adjusting
the upper screw
end (F).
of the With the forefinger, push
the slotted
slotted plate
plate (E)( E )as
as far
as it will
back the go,upper end of far
as shown in Fig. 6, and at the same
sametime
astime press the bobbin winder pulley against the tmie
it will go, as shown in Fig. 6, and at the
hub
of the
time press the ebobbin
balanc wheel,winder pulley against the hub
then tighten
tighten thethe adjusting
adjusting
screw
of the (balance
F). wheel, then
screwIf the(F).thread does
If thethethread does notnot wind
wind evenly
evenly onon the
the bobbin,
bobbin,
loosen screw which holds the tension
tension bracket
bracket
loosen
(2, Fig. 5) in position on the bedthe
the screw which holds
(2, Fig. of the machine and and
shde the5)tension
iri position
bracke on the bed of the machine
t to
slide the tension
be require d, thenbracket to the right or
the right
tighten the screw.
or left,
left, as
as may
may
be Bobbin
required, s canthenalso
tighten the screw.
be wound while the machin
sewing. can also be wound while the machinee
is Bobbins
is sewing.
 11 11

ToToThread
Threadthethe Bobbin
Bobbin Case
Case

Hold
Hold thethe
between the
bobbin
bobbin
thumb
between the thumb
and forefing er of
and
the right hand, of
forefinger with
the right
the hand,on
thread withtop
the thread on top
drawing from right
drawing from right
to left, as shown in
t9Fig.
left, as shown in
Fig. 7.7.

F I G7. 7
FIG.

Withthe
With theleft
lefthand,
hand,
holdthe
hold thebobbin
bobbincasecaseasas
shown in
shown inFig.
Fig.7,7,thethe
slotininthe
slot theedge
edgebeing
being
atatthe
thetop,
top,and
andplace
place
the bobbin
the bobbin intointo the
the
bobbincase.
bobbin case.

FIG. 88
FIG.

T hen pull the

Then
thread pull
into the the
slot
thread
as shownintointhe slot
Fig. 8,
as
andshown
back in Fig.
under the8,
and backspring
tension underinto
the
tension
the slot spring
at the into
end
the slot
of the at thespring
tension end
of
as the tension
shown spring
in Fig. 9.
as shown in Fig. 9. FIG 9
FIG. 9
 12
12
To Replace
To Replace the
the Bobbin
Bobbin Case
Case
After threading,
After threading, take
take the bobbin case
the bobbin case by
by the
the
latch, holding it between the thumb and forefinger
latch, holding it between the thumb and forefinger

FIG. 10.
FIG. 10. BOBBIN
BOBBIN CASE
CASE THREADED
THREADEDAND
AND REPLACED
REPLACED

of the
of the left
left hand. Place the
hand. Place the bobbin
bobbin case
case on
on the center
the center
stud (B,
stud (B, Fig.
Fig. 10)
10) of
of the shuttle body
the shuttle body with
with the
the posi-
posi-
tion finger
tion finger (A,
(A, Fig.
Fig. 10)
10)opposite
oppositethethenotch
notch atat the top
the top
of the
of the shuttle
shuttle race. Release the
race. Release latch and
the latch and press
press thethe
bobbin case
bobbin case back
back until
until the latch catches
the latch catches the
the groove
groove
near
near the end of
the end of the stud. Allow
the stud. Allow about
about three
three inches
inches
of thread
of thread to to hang
hang free
free from
from thethe bobbin
bobbin case
case andand
close the
close the shde
slideinin the
the bed
bed of
of the machine.
the machine.
 13
13

To Set
To Set the
theNeedle
Needle
Select aaneedle
Select needle totosuit
suitthe
thesize
sizeofofthread
threadbeing
being
used. See
used. Seeinside
inside cover
cover page
page at
atback
back ofofbook.
book.
Turnthethe
' Turn balancewheel
balance wheelover
overtoward
towardyou
you until
until
theneedle
the needle bar
barisisatatits
itshighest
highestposition,
position,and
andloosen
loosen
the thumb
the thumbscrew
screw (A,(A,Fig.
Fig.11)
11)in
inthe
theneedle
needle clamp.
clamp.

FIG. 11.
FIG. 11. POSITIONING
POSITIONING OF
OFNEEDLE
NEEDLE
IN NEEDLE
IN N E E D L E CLAMP
CLAMP

H a v e the
Have the flat
flat side
side ofofthe
theshank
shank ofof the
the
needle toward
needle toward the theleft
left as
asshown
s h o w n above
above and
and
put the
put theneedle
needle up upinto
into the
theclamp
clamp as asfar as i
far as
it will
it will go.
go. Then
T h e n tighten
tighten the
thethumb
thumb screw.
screw.
 14
14

Upper Threading
Upper Threading
(SEE FIG.
(SEL F I G . 12)
12)

Turn the
Turn the balance
balance wheel
wheel over
over toward
toward you you until
until
the thread
the thread take-up
take-up lever
lever (5)
(5) is
is raised
raised to to its
its highest
highest
position. Place
position. Place the
the spool
spool of
of thread
thread on on the
the spool
spool pin
pin
at the
at the top
top ofof the
the machine
machine andand passpass the
the thread
thread to to
the left
the left through
through the the thread
thread guide
guide (1) (1) at
at the
the rear
rear ofof
the face
the face plate,
plate, down,
down, under
under and
and from
from back
back to to front
front
between the
between the tension
tension discs
discs (2),
(2), the
the thread guard (L)
thread guard (L)
guiding the
guiding the thread between the
thread between discs. (See
the discs. (See insert
insert inin
Fig. 12).
Fig. 12). With
With thetheright
righthand
handhold
holdthe thespool
spool toto pre-
pre-
vent it
vent it from
from turning, and with
turning, and with the
the left
left hand
hand draw
draw the the
thread up
thread up into
into the
the take-up
take-up spring
spring (4)(4) until
until the thread
the thread
enters the
enters the retaining
retaining fork
fork (3),
(3), then pass the
then pass the thread
thread up up
and from
and from back back toto front
front through
through the hole in
the hole in the
the thread
thread
tale-up lever
tare-up lever (5),
(5),down
down through
through the the guide
guide (6)(6) on
on the
the
face plate, into the
face plate, into the guide guide (7)
(7) on
on the
the needle
needle clamp
clamp and and
from right
from right to to left
left through
through the
the eye
eye (8)(8) of
of the
the needle.
needle.

Draw about
Draw about two
two inches
inches of
of thread
thread through the eye
through the eye
of the
of the needle
needle with
with which
which to
to commence
commence sewing.
sewing.
 15
15

1- ) 5
1\ f-A_-----
-:-..
fraaggi
:-
..0-

8
E;13531

F I G . 12.
FIG. 12. UPPER
UPPERTHREADING
THREAD ING
 16
16
Prepare for
To Prepare
To Sewing
for Sewing
With the
With left hand,
the left hand, holdhold the end of
the end of the needle
the needle
thread, leaving
thread, slackfrom
leavingititslack fromthe hand to
thehand to the needle.
the needle.
T u r n the
Turn bal-
the bal-
fA •^^^HHP^ f'/ f V |||||B^^|| a n c e wheel
ance wheel
f)k
liK.: ji^pBii;i toward you
over toward
over you
I \A% M r until the
until needle
theneedle
moves down
moves down and and
again to
up again
up its
to its
position,
highest position,
highest
catching the
thuscatching
thus the
bobbin thread.
bobbin thread.
D r a w up
Draw u p thethe
needle thread
needle thread
THREAD
BOBBINTHREAD
and the
and bobbin
thebobbin
DRAWINGUP
13.DRAWING
FIG. 13. U PBOBBIN
FIG.
threadwill
thread come
willcome
up with it
up with through the
it through in the
hole in,
the 'hole throat plate,
the throat plate,
as shown in
as shown Fig. 13.
in Fig. 13. Lay boththreads
L a yboth threadsback back
underthe,
under the presser foot di-
presser foot di-
across the
agonally across
agonally feed,
the feed,
as shown in
as shown inFig. 13A, to
Fig.13A, to
the rightor
theright depend-
left,depend-
orleft,
inging upon whichside
uponwhich sideof the
of the
needle the
needle material is
the material is toto
be located, so
belocated, when
thatwhen
so that
thethepresser lowered,
footisislowered,
presserfoot £/7403
E/7 OJ
the threadswill
thethreads willbe firmly
befirmly THREADSIN
13A.THREADS
F I G .13A. IN
and
F/G.
betweenthe
heldbetween
held feedand
thefeed POSITIONTO
POSITION TO COMMENCE
COMAIENCE
the presserfoot.
thepresser foot. SEWING
SEWING
ToCommence
To Sewing
CommenceSewing
Placethe
Place materialbeneath
thematerial the
beneaththe presserfoot,
presser fower
foot,Power
thepresser
the footand
presserfoot sew.
commence totosew.
andcommence
Whensewing
When thick material,
sewing thick necessary
maybebenecessary
material,ititmay
thebalance
turnthe
tototurn wheelover
balancewheel toward you
over toward by hand
you byhand
themachine.
startthe
totostart Thisshould
machine.This alsobe
shouldalso doneifif
bedone
machinestops
themachine
the whensewing
stopswhen acrossthick
sewingacross seams.
thickseams.
 17
To Remove
To Removethe
theWork
Work
Stopthe
Stop themachine
machinewith withthe
thethread
threadtake-up
take-uplever
lever
(5,Fig.
(5, Fig.12)
12)atatits
itshighest
highestposition,
position,raise
raisethe
thepresser
presser
footand
foot anddraw
drawthe thefabric
fabricback
back and
andtotothe
theleft,
left,pass
pass
thethreads
the threadsover
overthe thethread
threadcutter
cutter(A,
(A,Fig.
Fig.13)
13)and
and
pulldown
pull down lightly
lightlyto to sever
sever them.
them.Leave
Leavethetheends
endsofof
thethreads
the threadsunder
underthe thepresser
presserfoot.
foot.

To Turn
To T u r n aaCorner
Corner
'Stopthe
'Stop themachine
machinewhen
whenthetheneedle
needleisiscommencing
commencing
itsupward
its upward stroke.
stroke. Raise
Raisethe
thepresser
presser foot
foot and
and turn
turn
the work
the work asas desired,
desired, using
using the
the needle
needle as as aapivot,
pivot,
thenlower
then lower the
thepresser
presser foot.
foot.

To Regulate
To Regulate the
the Pressure
Pressure on
on the
the Material
Material
For ordinary
For ordinaryfamily
familysewing,
sewing,ititisisseldom
seldom necessary
necessary
to change
to change the
the pressure
pressure on on the
the material.
material. IfI fsewin
sewing
fine silk
fine silk or
or flimsy
flimsy material;
material, lighten
lighten the
the pressure
pressure bby
turning the
turning the thumb
thumb screw
screw (A,
(A, Fig.
Fig. 24)
24) on
on the
the top
top oof
the machine over
the machine over toto the
the left
left so
so that
thatititscrews
screws up.
up. Tc
Tc
increase the
increase pressure, turn
the pressure, turn this
this thumb
thumb screw
screw over
over ttc
the right
the right soso that
that ititscrews
screws down.
down. The Thepressur
pressure
should be
should be only
only heavy
heavy enough
enough to to prevent
prevent the materia!
the materia
from rising
from rising with
with thethe needle
needle and
and to to enable
enable the
the feed
feed tt(
move the
move work along
the work along evenly.
evenly. The The heavier
heavier the
the mama:
terial, the
terial, the heavier
heavier the the pressure;
pressure; the the lighter
lighter thth(
material, the
material, the lighter
lighter the
the pressure.
pressure.
 18
18

To Regulate the
To Regulate the Direction Feed
of Feed
Directi on of

feed the
To feed
To goods from
the goods down the
push down
you, push
from you, the
stitch regulator
stitch r lever (B, Fig. 14) as far as it will
regulato lever (B, Fig. 14) as far as it will go.go.

FIG.14.14.
FIG. SHOWING
SHOWING LEVER R FOR
L E V EFOR REVERSING
G DIRECTIO N
REVERSIN DIRECTION
OF FEED
OFFEED AND
AND REGULATI NGLENGTH
REGULATING
OF STITCH
LENGTHOF STITCH

feedthe
Tofeed
n To goodstoward
thegoods raisethe
you,raise
towardyou, stitch
thestitch
lever (B) as high as it will
cgulatorlever (B) as high as it will go.
egulator go.
7
The directionofoffeed
Thedirection canbe
feedcan reversedatatany
bereversed point
anypoint
a seam
f >af seam without removin g the work
without removing the work from the from the
aachine.
`achine.

Back
, Back tacking
tacking is therefore
is therefore readily
readily accomphshed
accomplished
thethe
ndnd the
fasteningofofthe
fastening ends of of
ends seams
seams made
is ismade easy.
easy.
 1919
ToRegulate
To Regulatethe
theLength
LengthofofStitch
Stitch
Themachine
The machinecan canbe beadjusted
adjustedtotomake makefrom from6 6toto
30stitches
30on stitchestotothe theinch-
inchasasindicated
indicatedby bythe
thenumerals
numerals
on the thestitch
stitchindicator
indicatorplateplate(C,(C,Fig.
Fig.14).
14).
Thenumber
The numberof ofstitches
stitches totothe
theinch
inch that
thatthe thema-ma-
chine isisset
chine settotomake makeisisindicated
indicatedby bythethenumber
number
which
which isis ininline with the
line with theupper
upper side
sideof of the
thestitch
stitch
regulatinglever
regulating lever(B,(B,Fig.
Fig.14).
14).
ToTochange
changethe thelength
lengthofofstitch,
stitch,loosen
loosen the thethumb
thumb
screw(A,
screw (A,Fig.Fig.14) 14)andandmove
move itittotothe
thebottom
bottomofofthe the
slot.
slot. Then
Then move movethe thestitch
stitchregulating
regulatingleverlever(B) (B)until
until
its
its upper
upper side sideisisininline hnewithwiththethenumber
number of of the
the
desiredlength
desired lengthofofstitch.
stitch.NowNowmovemovethe thethumb
thumbscrew screw
(A)
(A) until
until the
the stitchstitchregulating
regulating plateplatetouches
touches the the
lever(B),
lever ( B ) ,then
thentighten
tightenthe thethumb
thumbscrew screw(A).
(A).
Themachine
The machinewill will now
now make
make thetheindicated
indicatednumbernumber
ofstitches
stitches to
ofdirection, tothe
theinch
inchinineither
eithera aforward
forwardororreversereverse
direction, depending
depending on on whether
whether the the lever
lever (B) (B) is
is atat
its lowest or highest
its lowest or highest position. position.

Basting
Basting
The longest
The longest stitch
stitch made
made byby the
themachine,
machine. No.
No. 66
on the
on the stitch
stitchindicator,
indicator, isisfound
foundsatisfactory
satisfactory for
for
basting, after loosening the
basting, after loosening the tension
tension on
on the
the needle
needle
thread
thread so that
so that thethestitches
stitchesmay
maybebeeasily
easilypulled
pulledfrom
from
the material.
the material.
Machine basting
Machine basting is
is firmer
firmer and
and more
more even
even than
than
thatdone
that doneby
by hand
handin
inaddition
additionto
tobeing
being much
much quicker.
quicker.

To Sew
To Sew Flannel or Bias
Flannel or Bias Seams
Seams
Use aa short
Use short stitch
stitchand
and as
as light
lightaa tension
tension asas possible
possible
on the
on the needle
needle thread
thread so
so as
as to
to leave
leave the
the thread
thread loose
loose
enough
enough in the seam to allow the goods
in the seam to allow the goods to stretchto stretch
if necessary
if necessary. .
 20
20
Tension s
Tensions
For ordinary stitching
For ordinary , the
stitching, needle and
the needle bobbin
and bobbin
threads should
threads lockedin
be locked
should be of the
center of
the center
inthe thick-
the thick-
of the
ness of
ness the material, thus:
material, thus:

Oar717
15.PERFECT
FIG. 15.
FIG. STITCH
P E R F E C TSTITCH

IfIf the on the

tension on
the tension needle thread
the needle thread is too tight,
is too or
tight, or
that on
ifif that on the bobbin thread
the bobbin loose, the
too loose,
thread isis too needle
theneedle
thread will
thread will lie along the
straight along
lie straight surface of
upper surface
the upper of
thematerial,
the thus:
material, thus:

E1J3J9
ElINS
TIGHT
16.TIGHT
FIG. 16. TENSION
THREADTENSION
N E E D L ETHREAD
FIG. NEEDLE
tension on
thetension
IfIf the the bobbin
on the thread isis too
bobbin thread tight,
too tight,
on the
thaton
oror ifif that needle thread
the needle loose, the
too loose,
threadisistoo bobbin
the bobbin
threadwill
thread will lie along the
straight along
lie straight sideof
under side
the under the
of the
thus:
material, thus:
material,

$11329

FIG.
,FIG. LOOSE NEEDLE
17. LOOSE TENSION
THREADTENSION
N E E D L ETHREAD

ToRegulate
To the Needle
Regulatethe Tension
Thread Tension
NeedleThread
The tensionon
The tension onthe theneedle threadcan
needle thread canbe regulated
beregulated
onlywhen
only whenthe presserfoot
thepresser down.
footisisdown.
. The numbered
T h enumbered
A Q . I/I dial(C,
dial Fig.18)
(C,Fig. 18)isis
markedwith
marked withnum- num-
rangingfrom
bersranging
bers from0 0
indicate
whichindicate
toto9,9,which
degreesofof
differentdegrees
different
tension
tension whichcan
which canbebe
producedThe
produced. . Thenum-num-
bersdo
bers donot denote
notdenote
particulasize
a aparticular r sizeofof
thread.
thread.
E13356 I l
813356 By n o t i n gthe
B y noting the
8 . NEKULK
i . 1NEEDLE
o.H18. THREAD u TENSION
l H K b : ATENSION -
- number
number which
which op-
is isop-
 21
21
posite the
posite the center
center line line (Q) (Q) on on the the indicator
indicator (G) (G)
when set
when set for for aa satisfactory
satisfactory tension tension on on the the work work
being stitched, the number
being number can can be be readily
readily reverted reverted
to when
to w h e n aa change
change is is made
made in i n the
the tension
tension or or size
size of of
thread.
T o Increase
To I n c r e a s e the
t h e Tension, t u r n the
T e n s i o n , turn the thumb t h u m b nut nut
( A ) over
(A) over ttoward
o w a r d yyouo u (over
(over to to the right) until
the right) u n t i l the
the
desired number
desired number on on the numbered
numbered dial dial (C) ( C ) isis oppo-
oppo-
site the
site the center
center lineline (Q),
( Q ) , the
the higher
higher numbers
numbers denoting denoting
increased tension.
increased tension.
T o Decrease
To D e c r e a s e tthe
h e Tension, t u r n the
T e n s i o n , turn the thumb t h u m b nut nut
( A ) over
(A) over aaway w a y from
from yyou o u (over
(over to to the left),
l e f t ) , the
the lower
lower
indicating less
numbers indicating less tension.
tension.
T h e tension
The tension indicator (G) ( G ) is
is marked
m a r k e d withw i t h the signs signs
-|-and
+ and—, — , which
w h i c h indicate
indicate the the direction
direction in i n which
w h i c h to
to
t u r n the
turn the thumb
t h u m b nutn u t (A)( A ) for
for more
more or or less
less tension.
tension.
C A U T I O N — I t is important for the tension
CAUTION--It tension thumb thumb
n u t (A,
nut ( A , Fig.
F i g . 18)
18) toto have
have aa firm firm fit fit on
on tension
tension stud stud
( N , Fig.
(N, F i g . 19),
19), to to keep
keep the numberednumbered dial dial (C) ( C ) in
i n the
the
position set
position set for
for the required tension.
the required tension. To T o remedy
remedy aa
loose fit
loose fit of
of the
the nnut,
u t , remove
remove parts parts A A,, CC,, D D,, FF and G, G,
F i g . 20, aand
Fig. n d shghtly
slightly spread
spread the the sstud,
t u d , then re-assemble
re-assemble
parts as
the parts as instructed
instructed on on pages
pages 22 22 to to 24 24 inclusive.
inclusive.

T o Regulate
To R e g u l a t e the
t h e Bobbin
B o b b i n Thread
Thread T ension
Tension
T h e tension
The tension on on the bobbin thread is regulated
the bobbin regulated by by
the screw
the screw (0, (O, Fig.
F i g . 8)
8) ini nthe thebobbin
bobbin case case tension
tension
spring. To T o increase
increase the the tension,
tension, turn t u r n this
thisscrew
screw over
over
to the right. To T o decrease
decrease the tension, tension, turn t u r n the
the screw
screw
over to
over to the left.left.
W h e n the
When tension on
the tension on the bobbin thread has
the bobbin has once
once
been properly
been properly adjusted,
adjusted, iitt is is seldom
seldom necessary
necessary to to
change iit,
change t , as a correct
correct stitch
s t i t c h can
can usually
u s u a l l y be
be obtained
obtained
b y varying
by v a r y i n g the tension
tension on on the needleneedle thread.
thread.
T o Disassemble
To D i s a s s e m b l e ttheh e Needle
Needle Thread Thread T ension
Tension
NOTE: T
NOTE: Theh e needle
needle tthreadh r e a d tension,
t e n s i o n , Figs.
F i g s . 18
18
t o 20
to 20 iinclusive,
n c l u s i v e , iis
s ccorrectly
o r r e c t l y aadjusted
d j u s t e d aat
t tthe
h e ffac-
ac-
t o r y to
tory p r o d u c e tthe
to produce h e ccomplete
o m p l e t e range
r a n g e ofof ttensions
ensions
w i t h one
with one revolution
r e v o l u t i o n of of ttheh e thumb
t h u m b nut n u t (A).
(A).
 22
There sshould
There h o u l d bebe nno o n e c e s s i t y for
necessity r e m o v i n g or
for removing
taking
taking tthish i s tension
t e n s i o n apart. H o w e v e r if,
a p a r t . However if, for
for any
any
reason,
reason, iitt becomes
becomesnecessarynecessarytoto remove remove the the tension,
proceed
proceed as follows:
as follows:
T u r n the
Turn the thumb
thumb nut n u t (A,( A , Fig.
F i g . 19)
19) away
a w a y from
from youyou
(toward the
(toward theleft)
left)uuntil
n t i l i titstops
stopsatat ""0" 0 " onon the
the num-
num-

A cs F \
rHh
ta
41/
D F2 G
FIG.
FiG. 19.
1 9 , NEEDLE
N E E D L ETHREAD
T H R E A D TENSION
T E N S I O N DISASSEMBLED
DISASSEMBLED

bered
bered dial dial ((C);
C ) ; then press iin
then press n the dialdial to to disengage
disengage
the pinpin (B) ( B ) iin
n the
the thumb
thumb nnut u t and remove
remove the thumb
the thumb
nut, dial,
nut, dial, stop washer (D), ( D ) , tension
tension spring-
spring ((F), F ) , indi-
indi-
cator (G),
cator ( G ) , the two tension
the two tension discs
discs ((H),H ) , tthread
h r e a d guard
guard
plate (L), ( L ) , and
and the tension
tension releasing
releasing ppin i n (J),
( J ) , as shown
shown
in FFig.
in i g . 19.
19. TTo o remove
removethethe ppini n ((J)
J ) from
from the the stud (N),
stud (N),
take
take off off the the face
faceplate
plateaand
n d t itilt
l t iit
t so
so tthath a t the
the pinpin
w i l l drop
will drop out.
T o Reassemble
To R e a s s e m b l e tthe
h e Needle
Needle Thread
T h r e a d Tension
Tension
Replace
Replace the the face
face plate,
plate, insert the tension releasing
pin iin
pin n the
the sstud,
t u d , place
place the
the thread
thread guard
guard plate
plate on
on the

N F2 F G n
Fic;. 20.
FIG. fii:\-si:\iHi,l\<: AND
2 0 . REASSEMBLING w u REPLACING
i I ij'i.\r! NCJ THE
T H E TENSION
TENSION
 23
23

s t u d , being
stud, being sure sure tthat h a t thethe lug
l u g (M,( M , Fig.F i g .19)19) engages
engages
the
the short recess recess ((P) P ) to prevent the
to prevent the plateplate fromfrom turn- turn-
ing on
ing on the the stud.
s t u d . Next,
N e x t , place
place the the two two tension
tension discs discs
( H ) on
(H) on the stud, having h a v i n g the flat fiat thread-bearing
thread-bearing sides sides
of the
of discs together;
the discs together; then replace replace the the indicator
indicator (G) (G)
w i t h the large
with large open open sideside facing
facing end end ofof sstud t u d soso tthat
hat
plus and
the plus a n d minus
m i n u s signs
signs willw i l l be
be readily seen seen fromfrom a
sewing position
sewing position as as shown
showni ninFFig. i g . 20.20. IInsert
n s e r t the
the tten-
en-
sion spring
sion spring ((F) F ) iin n the indicator so
the indicator so tthath a t the firstfirst half
half
tturn
u r n ofof this
t h i s spring
spring will w i l l straddle the lower lower half half of of the
the
tension sstud.
tension t u d . Guide
Guide the the stop
stop washer
washer ((D) D ) onto
onto the the
s t u d so
stud so thatt h a t thethe extension
extension (S) ( S ) will
w i l l be be above
above the the
tension
tension stud s t u d asas shown_
shown iin n F i g . 20.
Fig. 20.
I f the spring
If spring and a n d stop
stop washer
washer are are in i n correct
correct posi- posi-
tion, the the extension
extension will w i l l clear
clear the first first halfhalf coil
coil ofof the
spring as
spring as shown
shown in in
F i g . 21.
Fig. 21.
N
Nexte x t place
p l a c e thethe
s n u m b e r e d dial
numbered d i a l onon
the
the stud stud so so tthat
h a t the
n umeral 2
numeral 2 is oppo-
oppo-
site the stop washer washer
extension
extension ((S), S ) , then
then
E 1 2 769 push
push the the dial d i a l toto
compress
compress the the spring
F I G . 21
FIG. 21
so that
so t h a t the
the thumb
thumb
nut
nut can can be be turned
turned
onto the stud, carefully carefully guiding guiding the the pin pin iin n the thumb
the thumb
nut into one
nut one of of the the holes
holesiin n thethenumbered
numbereddial. Then
dial. Then
lower the
lower presser bar
the presser bar aand n d tturn
u r n the thumb t h u m b nut (A) (A)
to
to the left left until
u n t i l iitt stops
stops at at '^0."
"0." Thread T h r e a d the the tension
tension
and pull
and p u l l the
the thread
thread through
through the the tension
tension discs discs to to test
test
the amount
the amount of of tension
tension at the the "0" " 0 " position.
position. At A t this
 24
pointthere
point thereshould
shouldbe beaabarely
barelyperceptible
perceptib lepull p u l on
l onthe
the
threadtotoindicate
thread indicatethatt h a there
t thereisis a m i n i m u mtension
a minimum tension
ononthethethread,
thread,which
w h i c hgradually
graduall yincreases
increaseswith with the the
turnofofthe
turn thethumb
t h u m bnut
n u ttotothe
t h eright,
r i g h tproviding
, providin ga afullfull
range of tensions from light to h e a v y w i t h i n one r e v o -
range of tensions from light to heavy within one revo-
lution of the t h u m b n u t . I f t h e p u l l i s too strong for
lution of the thumb nut. If the pull is too strong for
a aminimum
minimum tension, press i n the numbere d d i a l to dis-
tension, press in the numbered dial to dis-
engage the p i n i n t h e t h u m b n u t f r o m the d i a l a n d
engage the pin in the thumb nut from the dial and
reset the pin i n one of the holes to the left of the pre-
reset the pin in one of the holes to the left of the pre-
vious setting. T h i s resetting of the p i n w i l l produce
vious setting. This resetting of the pin will produce
less tension a t zero. R e p e a t t h i s process u n t i l the
less tension at zero. Repeat this process until the
desired m i n i m u m tension is obtained . O n the other
desired minimum tension is obtained. On the other
hand, should there be insufficie nt tension a t zero,
hand, should there be insufficient tension at zero,
press i n the dial a n d reset the p i n i n one of the holes
press in the dial and reset the pin in one of the holes
to the r i g h t of the previous setting, repeatin g this
to the right of the previous setting, repeating this
process u n t i l the desired m i n i m u m tension is
process until the desired minimum tension is
obtained.
obtained.
IfIf Correct
C o r r e c t Stitching
S t i t c h i n g is
i s Not
Not Obtained:
Obtained:

IfI f the
thebobbin
bobbin thread
threadtension
tension has
hasbeenbeen disturbed,
disturbe d,
or a correct s t i t c h cannot be obtained w i t h o u t a
or a correct stitch cannot be obtained without a
v e r y heavy
very h e a v y or
or very
v e r y light
light needle
needle thread
t h r e a d tension,
tension, then
then
the following procedur e is recomme nded:
the following procedure is recommended:
U s i n g No.
Using N o . 50
50 thread
thread in i n the
the needle
needle and a n d on
on the
the bob-
bob-
bin, adjust the needle t h r e a d tension as i n s t r u c t e d
bin, adjust the needle thread tension as instructed
above. T h e n t u r n the tension t h u m b n u t to " 3 ' ^
above. Then turn the tension thumb nut to "3"
and, w i t h two thicknes ses of t h i n m a t e r i a l i n the
and, with two thicknesses of thin material in the
machine, adjust the b o b b i n t h r e a d t e n s i o n , as
machine, adjust the bobbin thread tension, as
instructe d on page 2 1 , u n t i l the s t i t c h is correctly
instructed on page 21, until the stitch is correctly
locked i n the m a t e r i a l as shown i n F i g . 15.
locked in the material as shown in Fig. 15.
AA widewide range
range of of material
materialss aand
n d threads
threads can c a n now
now bebe
accommo dated without further a d j u s t m e n t of the
accommodated without further adjustment of the
bobbin thread tension.
bobbin thread tension.
 25
25

T o Oil
To O i lthe
t h eMachine
Machine

T o insure
To insureeasy easyrunning,
running,the
themachine
machinerequires
requires
oiHng and
oiling a n d ififused
usedcontinuously
continuously iti tshould
should be
beoiled
oiled

FIG.
FIG. 22.
22. F R O N T VIZTW,
FRONT V I E W , SHOWING
S H O W I N G OILING
O I L I N G POINTS
POINTS

each day.
each day. With
W i t hmoderate
moderate use, use,an
a noccasional
occasional oilingoiling
is sufficient.
is sufficient. Oil
O i l should
should be be applied
apphed at each of
at each of the
the
places shown
places shown bby y unlettered
unlettered arrows
arrows in
i n Figs.
F i g s . 22
22 to
to 25,
25,
inclusive. One
inclusive. One drop
drop ofof oil
oil at
a teach
each point
point isissufficient.
sufficient.
O i l holes
Oil holes are
are provided
provided in i n the
the machine
machine for for bearings
bearings
w h i c h cannot
which cannot bebe directly
directly reached.
reached.

D r a w to
Draw to the
the left
left the
the slide
shde in
i n the
the bed
bed of
of the machine
machine
a n d after
and after removing
removing the h n t and
the lint a n d dust
dust which
w h i c h maymay
have accumulated
have accumulated (see (see instructions
instructions on on pages
pages 30 30
a n d 31),
and 3 1 ) , apply
apply oilo i l to
to the
the shuttle
shuttle racerace (A,
( A , Fig.
F i g . 27).
27).
T h e slide
The shde should
should then
t h e n be
be closed.
closed.
 26

A t the
At the back
back of
of •the
the machine
machine is round cover
is a round cover
plate, fastened
plate, fastenedbyby aa thumb
t h u m b scrkw;
scre^jv; loosen
loosen the
the

F I G . 23.
FIG. 2 3 . OILING
O I L I N GPOINTS
P O I N T SAT
A TTHE
T H KBACK
B A C K OF
O F THE
T H EMACHINE
MACHINE

thumb screw,
thumb screw, tturn u r n thethe plateplate upward
u p w a r d and
a n d fasten
fasten
by tightening
by tightening the the screw.
screw. Turn T u r n thethebalance
balance wheelwheel
over toward
over toward you you until
u n t i l the
the connecting
connecting rod rod (A,
( A , Fig.
F i g .23)
23)
is at
is at its
itshighest
highest position.
position. Then T h e n apply
a p p l y aa few
few drops
drops
of oil
of oil through
through the the holehole in i n the
the top top of of the
the machine
machine
to the
to the wick
w i c k which
w h i c h is
is retained
retained in i n the
the cap
cap of of the
the con-
con-
necting rod,
necting rod, asas shown
shown in i n Fig.
F i g . 23.
23. Also
Also oil oil the
the other
other
moving parts
moving inside, tturn
parts inside, u r n the
the cover
cover plate
plate down
down and and
fasten it
fasten i t as
as before.
before.
 27
27

L o o s e n tthe
Loosen h e screw
s c r e w (B,(B,
FFig.
i g . 24,
24, near
near the upper end
the upper end
of
of the face plate,
the face plate, raise
raise the
plate a n d slip it
plate and i t off
off over
over the
head
head of of the
the screw.
screw. Apply Apply
aa drop
drop of of oil
oil at at each
each of of
the places indicated
the places indicated bby y the
unlettered arrowsarrows in i n Fig.
F i g . 24,
then replace the
then replace face plate
the face plate
and fasten it
and i t as
as before.
before.

1 K, 24.
Fli;. J4 END
] \ VIEW,
\
SHOWING OILING POINTS'
MiowiNo «_*iMNc; POINTS

T o reach
To reach the parts underneath
the parts underneath the bed of
the bed of the
the
machine,
machine, tturn
u r n the machine
machine backback on on its
its hinges
hinges and
and
apply oil
apply oil to the
the oil
oil holes
holes and
a n d bearings
bearings indicated
indicated
b y the arrows
by arrows ini n Fig.
F i g . 25.
25.

F I G . 25.
FIG. 2 5 . OILING
O I L I N GPOINTS
POINTS N
I NBASE
B A S E OF
O F MACHINE
MACHINE
 28
28

T o Lubricate
To L u b r i c a t e the
t h e Motor
Motor

U S E ONLY
USE O N L Y "SINGER"
" S I N G E R " MOTOR
M O T O R LUBRICANT
LUBRICANT
F O R LUBRICATING
FOR L U B R I C A T I N G THE
T H E MOTOR.
MOTOR. A A tube
tube
of this lubricant
of lubricant is is sent w i t h the machine.
sent with machine.

T h e "SINGER"
The "SINGER** M o t o r LLubricant
Motor u b r i c a n t is
is aa sspecially
pecially
prepared non-flowing
prepared non-flowingccompound o m p o u n d wwhich h i c h iiss not
not
affected by
affected by vvarying
a r y i n g t etemperatures.
m p e r a t u r e s . IIt t is the
is the
only lubricant
only lubricant w h i c h will
which w i l l positively
positively lubricate
lubricate
the motor.
the motor. Other O t h e r lubricants,
l u b r i c a n t s , including
i n c l u d i n g oil,
oil,
vaseline or
vaseline or oordinary
r d i n a r y grease
greasemmust u s t nnoto t bebe used
used
for llubricating
for u b r i c a t i n g tthe
he m o t o r , aas
motor, s tthey
h e y are
a r e harmful
harmful
for this
for t h i s purpose.
purpose.

When the
When machine is
the machine is shipped
shipped from
from the factory,
the factory,
the two
the two motor
motor grease
grease cups cups ((G,
G , Fig.
F i g . 26)
2 6 ) are
are filled
filled
with sufficient
with sufficient ' "SINGER"
' S I N G E R " Motor
M o t o r Lubricant
L u b r i c a n t for
for
approximately six
approximately six months
months use, under ordinary
use, under ordinary
circumstances.
circumstances.

A t least
At least once
once every
every sixsix months thereafter, these
months thereafter, these
grease cups
cups should
should be
berefilled
refilledwwith
i t h ' ' "S SINGER"
INGER" M otor
Motor
Lubricant. Insert
Lubricant. Insert the
the tip of of the
the motor motor lubricant
lubricant
into the grease
tube into grease cups
cups and squeeze into
and squeeze each cup
into each cup
smaU quantity
a small of the
quantity of lubricant.
the lubricant.
 29
29

FIG.
FIG. 26.
26. L U B R I C A T I N G TTHE
LUBRICATING H E MOTOR
MOTOR
 30
To C
To l e a n tthe
Clean Forming M
t i t c h Forming
h e SStitch echanism
Mechanism

After considerable
After use, the
considerableuse, t i t c h forming
the sstitch mechan-
forming mechan-
n the
ism iin
ism the bed of the
bed of machine may
the machine m a y become clogged
become clogged
lint and
with lint
with this may
and this interfere with
m a y interfere w i t h the perfect
the perfect
operation of
operation of the machine.
the machine.
Occasionally removethe
Occasionally remove the shuttle,
shuttle, as instructed
as instructed
below, and
below, removethe
and remove i n t , etc.,
the llint, w h i c h has
etc., which accumu-
has accumu-
i n the
lated in
lated machine.
the machine.

T o Remove
To he S
R e m o v e tthe huttle
Shuttle

to the
D r a w to
Draw the left shde iin
left the slide bed of
the bed
n the ma-
the ma-
of the
T u r n the
chine. Turn
chine. balance wheel
the balance over toward
wheel over you
t o w a r d you

F I G . 27.
Fie. S H O W I N GPOSITION
2 7 .SHOWING O FSHUTTLE
P O S I T I O NOF FOR
S H U T T L E FOR

R E M O V A L FROM
REMOVAL MACHINE
F R O M MACHINE

the needle
until the
until is at
needle is atits a n d the
position and
highestposition
i t shighest the
pointof
point of the atthe
shuttleisisat
theshuttle shownin
positionshown
theposition 27.
F i g . 27.
i nFig.
 31
31
R e m o v e the
Remove bobbin case
the bobbin case and bobbin. Take
a n d bobbin. out
T a k e out
screw (D,
t h u m b screw
the thumb
the F i g . 27),
( D , Fig. also the
2 7 ) , also spring (C,
the spring (C,
27) and
F i g . 27)
Fig. shuttle race
a n d the shuttle race backback (B, F i g s . 27
( B , Figs. and
27 and
28). The
28). shuttle(A,
T h eshuttle 27 and
F i g s . 27
( A ,Figs. m a y now
28) may
a n d 28) now bebe
removed and
easily removed
easily a n d the cleaned.
partscleaned.
the parts

R e p l a c e the
T o Replace
To Shuttle
t h e Shuttle

; See that
See needle is
theneedle
t h a tthe is at i t shighest
a t its Re-
position. Re-
highest position.
I place the
place w i t h its
shuttle with
the shuttle point (A)
i t spoint ( A ) in position
theposition
i nthe

F I G 28.
. 2 8 . SHUTTLE A N DPARTS
S H U T T L EAND FROM M A C H I N E
R E M O V E DFROM
P A R T SREMOVED
PIG. MACHINE

F i g 28,
shownini nFig.
shown replacethe
thenreplace
. 28,then otherparts
theother the
partsini nthe
order illustrated i n F i g . 28. R e p l
order illustrated in Fig. 28. Replace and tighten thea c e a n d tighten the
thumb screw(D).
t h u m bscrew . Replacethe
( D ) Replace the bobbinand
bobbin and bobbin
bobbin
caseand
case closethe
a n dclose slideini nthe
theslide thebedbedofofthe the machine.
machine.
 32
HINTS
HINTS
Belt. See
Belt. See that
t h a t the
the beltbelthashasthe thecorrect
correct tension. tension.
T h i s tension
This tension should
should be only only enough to keep keep the the beltbelt
from slipping.
from slipping. If I f the
thebelt
belttension
tensionisisincorrect,
incorrect,loosen loosen
the screw
the screw (D, ( D , Fig.
F i g . 5)
5 ) about one one turn t u r n and
a n d allow
allow the the
motor to
motor to drop
drop downward
downward uuntil n t i l thethe belt belt has has the the
correct tension,
correct tension, then then tighten the the screwscrew (D). (D).
M a c h i n e Working
Machine W o r k i n g Heavily.
H e a v i l y . If I f thethemachinemachine
runs hard
runs hard afterafter standing
standing idle idle for
for some some time, t i m e , use
use aa
little kerosene
little kerosene in i n the oiling
oihng places,
-places, run r u n thethe machine
machine
rapidly, then
rapidly, then wipewipe cleanclean and a n d oil.
oil.
T o Avoid
To Avoid Breaking
B r e a k i n g thet h e Needles.
Needles. See See thatt h a t the
the
presser foot
presser foot or or attachments
attachments are are securely
securely fastened fastened by by
the thumb
the thumb screw. screw. Do D o notnot sewsew heavy
h e a v y seamsseams or or very
very
thick goods
thick goods w i t h too
with fine a needle.
too fine needle. A large needle
A large needle
and thread
and thread to to correspond
correspond should should be be used
used on on heavy
heavy
work (see
work (see inside
inside covercover page page aatt back
back of of book).
book).
See that
•See t h a t the
the needle
needle is not bent, bent, and a n d avoid
a v o i d pulling
pulling
the material
the material when when stitching.
stitching.
B r e a k i n g of
Breaking of NeedleNeedle Thread.T h r e a d . If I f thethe needle
needle
thread breaks it
thread i t may
m a y be be caused
caused by: by:
Improper threading.
Improper threading.
Tension being
Tension being too tight.
too tight.
T h e thread
The thread being being too too coarse
coarse for for sizesize of of needle.
needle.
T h e needle
The needle being being bent,bent, hhaving
a v i n g aa blunt b l u n t point,
point,
or being
or being set set incorrectly.
incorrectly.
B e n t thread
Bent thread take-uptake-up spring.
spring.
B r e a k i n g of
Breaking B o b b i n Thread.
of Bobbin T h r e a d . If I f thethe bobbin
bobbin
thread breaks
thread breaks it i t may
m a y be be caused
caused by: by:
Improper threading
Improper threading of of the bobbin
bobbin case. case.
Tension being
Tension being too too tight.
tight.
S k i p p i n g of
Skipping S t i t c h e s . The
of Stitches. T h e needle
needle m maya y notnot be be
accurately set
accurately set into
into the needle bar bar or the needle needle may may
be blunt
be blunt or or bent.
bent. The T h e needle
needle may m a y be be tootoo smalls m a l l for
for
the thread
the thread in i n use.
use.
F r e e Instruction
Free I n s t r u c t i o n for
for using the machine is gladly
the machine gladly
given aatt any
given a n y Singer
Singer Shop. Shop.
 33
33
D a r n i n g or
Darning or Embroidering
Embroidering
T u r nthe
Turn themachine
machineback backononitsi thinges.d.Unscrew
s hinges.«»Unscrew as as
far as
far aspossible
possible the
the thumb
t h u m b screw
screw (B,
( B ,Fig.
F i g .29)
29) which
which

A B

E16992
E16992
FIG.
Flo. 29.29. A DTUSTMENT
A J U S T M E N T FOR
F O RDARNING
D A R N I N G 'OR
O R EMBROIDERING
EMBROIDERING
V
is
is located
located in i n the
the lowerlower end end of of the
the slot
slot of the feed
of the feed
lifting
lifting crank crank (A, ( A , Fig.
F i g . 29).
2 9 ) . The
T h e feed
feed isis thus
thus rendered
rendered
inoperative
inoperative aand n d will not interfere
w i l l not interfere with w i t h thethe free
free
movement
movement of of the
the work.w o r k . Bring
B r i n g the
the machine
machine forward forward
into
into place.place.
Move
M o v e the the stitchs t i t c h regulating
regulating lever lever (B,( B , Fig.
F i g . 14)
14) toto
its
its n e u t r a l position
neutral position iin the center
n the center of of the
the slotslot at at the
the
front of of the
the machine.
machine.
Remove
R e m o v e the the presser
presser foot foot and a n d let
let down
down the the presser
presser
bar lifter to restore restore the the tension
tension on on the
the needle
needle threadthread
which
w h i c h is released
released w when
h e n thethe lifter
lifter isis raised.
raised.
Draw
D r a w up the bobbin t h r e a d as instructed on
up the bobbin thread as instructed on
page 16. 16.
Instructions for embroidering are
I n s t r u c t i o n s for embroidering are contained i n the contained in the
"Singer
' ' S i n g e r Instructions
I n s t r u c t i o n s for for ArtA r t Embroidery,"
E m b r o i d e r y , " sold
sold by by
Singer
Singer S Sewing
ewing M Machine
a c h i n e Co. Co. at at aa reasonable
reasonable price. price.
r 34
darning
W h e n darning
When
flat work,
flat is
w o r k , iitt is
advisable to
advisable use
to use
embroidery
embroidery
h o o p s to
hoops hold
t o hold
the
the work.w o r k .
Place the
Place work
the work
i n the
in the machine, machine,
h a v i n g the
having un-
t h e un-
w o r n p
worn part near a r t n ear
t h e hole
the under
h o l e under
needle. Com-
theneedle.
the Com-
mence the
mence darn-
the darn-
D A R N I N GIN
3 0 .DARNING
F I G . 30. IN PROCESS
FIG. PROCESS
ing by
ing m a k i n gaa
b y making
line of
line stitches across
of stitches across thethe hole longer than
little longer
hole aa little than
width of the hole. Continue
the width of the hole. Continue making parallel
the m a k i n g parallel
lines of
lines stitches across
of stitches across the moving the
hole, moving
the hole, thework work
. backward
backward and forward and at the same
and forward and at the same time grad- time grad-
uallymoving
ually movingthe the
sidewise
w o r k sidewise
work
untilthe
until thehole holeisis I
c o v e r e d with
covered with
linesofofstitches
lines stitches
r u n n i n gacross
running across
the hole.Then
t h ehole. Then
c o m m e n c e asa s
commence
beforeand
before andmove move
thethework worklength- length-
wisewiseofofthe thehole hole
untilthe
until stitches
thestitches
a c r o s sthe
across e hole
t h hole
are completely
arecompletely
coveredand
,eovered andthe the
FIG. 31. DARNING FINISHED
Fm. 31. DARNING FINISHED
'darndarn is is finished.
finished.
 35
35

W h e n you
When y o u have
have finished
finished the the darning
darning or or embroidery,
embroidery,
raise the
raise the presser
presser bar bar lifter
lifter anda n d replace
replace the the presser
presscM'
foot. Turn
foot. T u r n the
the machine
machine back back on on itsitshinges
hinges and a n d move
move
the thumb
the t h u m b screw
screw (B, ( B , Fig.
F i g . 29)
2 9 ) down
down to to the
the bottom
bottom
of the
of the slot
slot ofof the
the feed
feed lifting
lifting crank
c r a n k (A,
( A , Fig.
F i g . 29)
2 9 ) and
and
make sure
make sure that
t h a t the
the thumb
t h u m bscrew
screw is is firmly
firmly tightened.
tightened.
B r i n g the
Bring the machine
machine forwardforward into place, return
into place, r e t u r n the
the
s t i t c h regulating
stitch regulating lever lever (B, ( B , Fig.
F i g . 14)
14) to to its
itsoriginal
original
position and
position a n d the
the machine
machine is is ready
ready for for regular
regular stitching.
stitching.

Stockings and
Stockings and socks,
socks, underwear,
underwear, etc., etc., can
can be
be more
more
c o n v e n i e n t l y darned
conveniently d a r n e d onon thet h e machine
m a c h i n e with
w i t h the
the
' ' S I N G E R " Darner,
"SINGER" D a r n e r which
, w h i c hcan
can be'
be purchased
purchased at at any
any
" S I N G E R " Shop
"SINGER" Shop or or from
from anya n y ""SINGER"
S I N G E R " salesman.
salesman.

G e n u i n e "SINGER"
Genuine " S I N G E R " Needles
Needles should
s h o u l d be
be
u s e d in
used i n "SINGER"
" S I N G E R " Machines.
Machines.
T h e s e Needles
These Needles aand n d ttheir
h e i r Containers
Containers
are marked
are m a r k e d with
w i t h the
the
C o m p a n y ^ s Trade-Mark
Company's T r a d e - M a r k "SIMANCO"
"SIMANCO" 1 1

Needles iin
Needles n C ontainers m
Containers arked
marked
" F O R SINGER
"FOR S I N G E R MACHINES"
MACHINES"
a r e NOT
are N O T ""SINGER"
SINGER" m needles. 22
a d e needles.
made
 36

INSTRUCTIONS
I N S T R U C T I O N S FFOR
O R UUSING
S I N G THE
T H E
ATTACHMENTS
A T T A C H M E N T S

T h e Foot
The F o o t Hemmer
Hemmer

T h e Foot
The F o o t Hemmer
H e m m e r (Fig.
( F i g . 32)
32)
attached to
is attached to the
the machine
machine in in
place of
place of the
the presser
presser foot. Raise
foot. Raise
needle to its
the needle i t s highest
highest posi- posi-
tion, loosen
tion, loosen the thumb t h u m b screw
screw
which clamps the presser foot to to
the presser bar and a n d remove
remove the
presser foot.
presser A t t a c h the Foot
foot. Attach Foot
Hemmer to
Hemmer the bar,
to the bar, taking
taking
tighten the
care to tighten the screw
screw firmly
firmly
so that
so t h a t the
the Hemmer
H e m m e r willw i l l not
not
FIG. 32.
FIG. 3 2 , THE
T H E FOOT
FOOT
become loose loose wwhenh e n the
the machine
HEMMER
HEMMER
is running.
is running. Turn T u r n the
the balance
balance
wheel slowly
wheel slowlytoto make make suresure tthat
h a t the
the needle
needle goes goes
through the
through the center
center of
of the
the needle
needle hole holeaand n d tthat
h a t thethe
lower thread
lower thread is is properly
properly pulled
pulled up.

How to
How to S t a r t tthe
Start h e Hem
H e m at
a t the
t h e Very
V e r y Edge
Edge

H o w to
How to start
start the the hem
hem at
a t the
the very
v e r y edge
edge of of the
the
material is
material is of great importance
of great importance iin n learning
learning to use
to use
Hemmer. If
the Hemmer. I f the
the hem
hem is not
not sstarted
t a r t e d at
a t the
the edge
edge
a n d the material
and m a t e r i a lis
is pulled
pulled bias
bias aa perfect
perfect hem hem cannot
cannot
be made.
be made.
 37
37

T h e r e are
There are several
several ways
w a y s of of starting
starting the hemhem ata t the
the
edge, but
edge, but thethemost
mostpractical
p r a c t i c a one
l one isisas
asfollows:
follows:

F I G . 33.
FIG. 3 3 .STARTING
S T A R T I N G AA HEM
H E MAT
A T THE
T H EEDGE
EDGE

1. Fold
1. F o l d over
over about N" of the edge
f / s " of edge of
of the material
material
at the
at the starting
starting point
point for
for aa distance
distance of
of about
about one
one inch.
inch.

2. Place
2. Place the
the material
m a t e r i a l in
i n the Hemmer
H e m m e r at
a t an
a n angle
angle
leading to
leading the right
to the right at a t aa point
point just
j u s t beyond
beyond the
the fold.
fold.

3. Draw
3. D r a w the
the material
material toward
t o w a r d you
y o u through
through the the
H e m m e r , as
Hemmer, as shown
showni inn FFig.
i g . 33,
33, aatt the
the same
same time time
m a k i n g the
making second fold
the second fold at
at the
the vvery
e r y edge. Continue
edge. Continue
to draw
to draw the the material
material through
through the H e m m e r uuntil
the Hemmer n t i l the
edge is
edge is just
just under
under the needle. Place
the needle. Place thethe upper
upper and and
lower threads
lower threads together
together under
under the the Hemmer
H e m m e r foot
foot and and
assist iin
assist n starting
starting of
of the
the hem
hem by b y slightly
slightly pulling
pulling the
threads from
threads from the back as
the back as the
the machine
machine is is rrun.
un.
 38
38
Making a
Making a Hem
H e m with
w i t h the
t h eFoot
F o o tHemmer
Hemmer
The same
The same width
w i d t h of
of material
m a t e r i a l must
m u s t be be kept
k e p t in
i n the
the
Hemmer aat
Hemmer t all
a l l times.
times. After
A f t e r placing
p l a c i n g the
thecorrect
correct

F I G . 34.
FIG. 3 4 .MAKING
M A K I N GA AHEM
H E M W I T HTHE
WITH T H E F O O THEMMER
FOOT HEMMER

idth of
width m a t e r i a l iin
of material n tthe h e Hemmer,
H e m m e r , hold
hold iitt in
i n aa
: raightline
straight line and
a n d youyou will
w i l l find
find it
i t quite
quite easy
easy to
to make
make
i i)erfect hem.
a perfect hem. See Fig. See F i g .34.
34.
Making a
Making aH e m m e d S e a m wwith
Hemmed•Seam i t h tthe
h e Foot
F o o t Hemmer
Hemmer
T h e hemmed
The hemmed seam seam iiss vvery
e r y practical
p r a c t i c a l to use
use on
on
underwear, oror i in
underwear, n fact
fact onon any
a n y garment
g a r m e n t where
where aa
straight seam is used
straight seam is used anda n d where
where aa small
s m a l l double
double seam
seam
would be
would be suitable.
suitable.

F I G . 35.
FIG. 3 5 . MAKING
M A K I N GAAHEMMED
H E M M E D SEAM
REAM
 39
39
W
When h e n using
using tthis h i s seam,
seam,the the garment
garment m u s t first
must first be
fitted and
fitted a n d the edge edge of of tthehe m a t e r i a l ttrimmed,
material r i m m e d , allow-
allow-
ing
ing for for about one-eighth iinch
about one-eighth n c h seam.
seam. The T h e two
two edges
edges
are placed
are placed together
together aand n d inserted
inserted iin n the Hemmer
H e m m e r iin n
the samesame manner
manner as as aa single
singlehhem. e m . IIff tthe h e material
m a t e r i a l is
is
bbulky,
u l k y , tthe
h e edge
edge of of the upper upper piecepiece of of m aterial m
material may ay
be
be placed
placed about one-eighth iinch
about one-eighth n c h ini n from
from the t h e edge
edge of of
the lower
the lower piece.
piece. See See Fig. F i g . 35.
35.
T h e free
The free edge
edge of of a hemmed
hemmed seam seam m maya y be
be stitched
fiat to
flat garment if desired.
to the garment desired. First F i r s t open
open the t h e work
work
out flat,
out flat, then
t h e n place
place the the hem h e m in i n thet h e scroll
scroll of of tthe he
Hemmer, w
Hemmer, h i c h acts
which acts as a guide, guide, holding
holding tthe h e edge
edge
of the
of t h e hem
h e m in i n position
position while while iitt is is being
being stitched.
stitched.
I f the
If t h e seam is sstitched
t i t c h e d flat
flat to thethe garment
garment one one row
of stitching is
of i s visible
visible on on the
the right side. side.
T h e hemmed
The hemmed seam seam may m a y be used on on muslin,
muslin, lawn,lawn,
percale, organdie
percale, organdie or or other
other fine fine materials
materials where where a
narrow seam
narrow seam is i s desirable.
desirable.

H e m m i n g and
Hemming a n d Sewing
Sewing o
onnL a c e iin
Lace nO ne O
One peration
Operation
S t a r t the
Start the hem
h e m in
i n the
the regular
regular way
w a y and
a n d with
w i t h the
needle holding
needle holding tthe
he h e m iin
hem n position,
position, raise tthe
h e presser
presser

F I G . 36.
FIG. 3 6 . HEMMING
H E M M I N G AND
A N DSEWING
S E W I N G ON
O N LACE
L A C E

bar sufficiently to
bar sufficiently to allow
allowthe the edge
edge ofof tthe
h e lace
lace to be
to be,
shpped iin
slipped n under
under tthe
he F oot H
Foot emmer, a
Hemmer, att the
the same
same time
bringing
bringingiit t uup
p through
through t.theh e slot
slot aat
t the
the right of tthe
right of he
H e m m e r . See
Hemmer. See FFig.
i g . 36. L o w e r the
36. Lower the bar,
bar, tturn
u r n the
the
 4040
balance wheel
balance wheel and a n d catchc a t c h the
t h eedge
edgeof ofthe t h elace
lacewith with
theneedle.
the needle. Guide
Guide the thehem h e mwithw i t h the
t h eright
r i g h thand
h a n dand
and
the lace w i t h t h e left.
the lace with the left. Care should be taken C a r e should be t a k e nnotnottoto
stretch the lace as i t i
stretch the lace as it is being fed into thes being fed into t h eHemmer.
Hemmer.
ItI tisisnot
notpractical
practicaltotosew sewgathered
gatheredlace laceon onwith with
the Foot H e m m e r , as
the Foot Hemmer, as the fulled lace catches the fulled lace catches in i nthe
the
Hemmer
Hemmer slot. slot.
A very a t t r a c t i v
A very attractive way of applyinge w a y of a p p l y i n glace
lace so so that
t h a tthe
the
stitchingof
stitching ofthe
thehem h e mis i snot
notvisible
visible is i s to
to start
s t a r tthe
t h ehem
hem
i n the regular w a y ,
in the regular way, slipping the lace slipping t h e lacein i nfrom
f r o m thet h eleft
left
asasyouyouwouldwould the t h esecond
second piece piece of ofmaterial
m a t e r i a when
l when
making a hemmed
making a hemmed seam. seam.

A D J U S T A B L E HEMMER—Hemming
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER—Hemming
Remove the
Remove the presser
presser foot
foot a n d attach
and a t t a c h the
t h eadjustable
adjustabl e
hemmer iin
hemmer n its
i t s place,
place, as
as shown
shown in i n Fig.
F i g .37.
37. This
This

F I G . 37
Fie. 37

hemmer will
hemmer w i l l tturn
u r n hems
hems fromfrom ,A ^ iinch
n c h to
to fj f inch
i n c h wide.
wide.
T h e adjustment
The adjustme nt is i s made
made by b y loosening
loosening tthe h e thumb
thumb
screw on t h e H e m
screw on the Hemmer andd moving m e r a n m o v i n g tthe h e scale
scale to to the
the
right or
right or left
left untilu n t i l the
t h e hem
h e m turned
t u r n e d is
i s of
of the
thedesired
desired
w i d t h . Place the cloth under t h e H e m m e r a n d d r a w
width. Place the cloth under the Hemmer and draw
the edge toward the left under t h e scale, as shown
the edge toward the left under the scale, as shown
 41
41
37. Draw
F i g . 37.
i n Fig.
in edge of
the edge
D r a w the the cloth
of the and
back and
cloth back
forth until hem is
the hem
u n t i l the stopping w
formed, stopping
is formed, i t h the
with end
the end
under the needle.
under needle. Lower the presser
L o w e r the bar and
presser bar com-
and com-
mence to
mence sew, being
to sew, careful to
being careful to so guide the
so guide the cloth as
cloth as
keep the
to keep the Hemmer full.
H e m m e r full.

ADJUSTABLE H
ADJUSTABLE EMMER—Wide H
HEMMER—Wide emming
Hemming
m a k e aa hem
T o make
To more than
hem more i n c hwide,
t h a n fly finch loosen
wide,loosen
t h u m b screw
the thumb
the H e m m e r and
the Hemmer
i n the
screw in move the
a n d move scale
the scale

,£93301

Fin.
F I G . 38
38

rightasasfar
theright
to the
to farasasiti twill t h e nswing
go, then
w i l lgo, toward
swing iti ttoward
y o u as
you shown in
as shown 38 and
F i g . 38
i n Fig. tighten the
a n d tighten thumb
the thumb
screw. Fold
screw. F o l dand creasedown
a n dcrease down aahem hemof of the desired
thedesired
passthe
w i d t h ;pass
width; under the
fold under
thefold extension at
theextension atthe right
theright
the Hemmer,
of the
of a n d the
H e m m e r , and the edgeedge intointo the folder as
thefolder as
shown in
shown i n Fig. proceed to
and proceed
38, and
F i g .38, s t i t c hthe
to stitch hem.
thehem.
 42
A t t a c h i n g tthe
Attaching he B i n d e r to the
Binder t h e Machine
Machine

Raise the
Raise the needle
needle to
to its
its highest
highest position
position aand
n d remove
remove
presser foot
the presser foot from
from ttheh e machine
machine by
b y loosening
loosening the
the

ADJUSTING
SCREW

OUTSIDE
SLOT OF
SCROLL
APRON-
APRON
BINDER
CENTER SLOT-^-
CENTER SLOT ,
tJ3595
SCROLL

F I G . 39
FIG. 39

thumb screw
thumb screw w h i c h holds
which holdsi it t iin
n place. Compare the
place. Compare
foot of
foot of the Binder
Binder a n d the
and the presser
presser footfoot and
a n dyou
y o u will
will
see that they
see they are are attached
attached to to the
t h e machine
machine in i n the
same manner.
same manner. AAttach t t a c h tthe
h e Binder
B i n d e r to the
t h e presser
presser bar.
bar.
T u r n the
Turn t h e balance
b a l a n c e wheel
w h e e l slowly
slowly
toward y
toward o u to
you make sure
to make sure tthath a t the
the
Binder is properly
Binder properly attachedattached to the the
bar and
bar and that
t h a tthe
the needle
needle goes goes through
through
the center
the center of of the
theneedle
needle hole.
hole.

I n s e r t i n g the
Inserting t h eBinding
B i n d i n g in
in
t h e Binder
the Binder

C u t the
Cut the binding
binding to to aa longlong point
point
to left,
to left, as
as shown.
shown. IInsert
n s e r t the
the pointed
pointed
end in
end i n the
thebinder
binder scroll
scroll (Fig.
( F i g .41)
41)
Fla. 40
u n t i l the
until t h e pointed
p o i n t e d end e n d comes
comes CUTTING POINT
CUTTING POINT
through the
through thelower
lower end end of of the
thescroll.
scroll. O N BINDING
ON BINDING
 43
43
P u l l the
Pull the binding
binding through
through under
under the the presser
presser foot
foot
before sstarting
before t a r t i n g to sew. Note
to sew. Note that
t h a t as
as the
the binding
binding
passes through
passes through the the scroll
scroll of
of the
the Binder
B i n d e r the
the edges
edges are
are
turned in.
turned in.

F I G . 41.
FIG. 4 1 . INSERTING
I X S E H T I X G BINDING
B I X D I X G IN
I N BINDER
BINDER

B i n d i n g May
Binding M a y be
be Purchased
P u r c h a s e d Cut
C u t and
a n d Folded
Folded
for Use
for U s e with
w i t h the
t h e Binder
Binder
F o l d e d bias
Folded bias binding
binding
m a y be
may be purchased
purchased for for
use with
use w i t h the the Binder.
Binder.
T h e binding
The binding comes comes in in
aa variety
v a r i e t y ofof materials
materials
a n d colors.
and c o l o r s . 'Folded
Folded
bindings for
bindings for useuse withwith
the Binder
the B i n d e r must
m u s t meas-
meas- FIG.
F I G . 42.
4 2 . INSERT
I N S E R TFOLDED
FOLDED
BINDING IN OUT-
ure 2" in
ure i nwidth.
w i d t h . The
The "'^''^i^^
SIDE SLOT
No. 5
No. 5 width
w i d t h ini n stand-
stand-
a r d brands
ard brands usually usually measures
measures y^", M", but but it i t is
i s always
always
well to
well to bebe suresure ofof this
t h i s before
before purchasing.
purchasing.
F o l d e d binding
Folded binding is is inserted
inserted iin n the
the outside
outside slot slot ofof
the Binder,
the B i n d e r , as as shown
shown iin n F i g . 42.
Fig. 42. The T h e Binder
B i n d e r is
is
adjusted a n d operated
adjusted and operated in the same manner as i n the same manner as when
when
using unfolded binding.
using unfolded binding. One-half inch One-half i n ch b r a i d or
braid or
ribbon may
ribbon m a y be be used
used iin n the same manner.
the same manner.
A binding inserted i n the
A binding inserted in the outside slot of outside of the
the B inder
Binder
w i l l be
will he tturned
u r n e d only
only once.
once. It I tisistherefore
therefore necessary necessary
to have finished edges
to have finished edges when using bindingwhen using binding iin n this
this slot.
 4444
T h e A d j u s t m e n t a n d O p e r a t i o n of t h e B i n d e r
The Adjustment and Operation of the Binder
T h e edge to be bound should be held w e l l w i t h i n
The edge to be bound should be held well within
the center slot of the scroll (A, F i g . 4 3 ) . I f the
the center slot of the scroll (A, Fig. 43). If the

FIG. 43. ADJUSTING T H E BINDER

FIG. 43. ADJUSTING THE BINDER

material is allowed to slip a w a y from the scroll

material is allowed to slip away from the scroll
when near the needle, the edge w i l l not. be caught
when near the needle, the edge will not be caught
ini n the
the binding.
binding. With W i t h aa little
little practice
practice iti tisisquite
quite easy
easy
toto hold
hold thethe edge
edge ini nthe
thescroll.
scroll.
Various materials
Various materia ls and a n d conditions
conditio ns require
require different
different
adjustm ents of the B i n d e r to bring the stitchin g
adjustments of the Binder to bring the stitching
close to the edge. A wider a d j u s t m e n t of the B i n d e r
close to the edge. A wider adjustment of the Binder
is required w h e n binding curves t h a n is necessar y
is required when binding curves than is necessary
when binding a straight edge.
when binding a straight edge.
T o adjust
To adjust the theBinder
B i n d e rfor
forstitching,
stitchin g,loosen
loosen screw
screw
( B , F i g . 4 3 ) , a n d move scroll to the right for nar-
(B, Fig. 43), and move scroll to the right for a nar-
rower a d j u s t m e n t a n d to the left for a wider a d j u s t -
rower adjustment and to the left for a wider adjust-
ment. C a r e should be t a k e n to see t h a t the screw
ment. Care should be taken to see that the screw
is w e l l tightene d after m a k i n g a n adjustm ent. T o
is well tightened after making an adjustment. To
become perfectly f a m i l i a r w i t h the adjustm ent of
become perfectly familiar with the adjustment of
the B i n d e r , practice is necessar y.
the Binder, practice is necessary.
 45
4.5
B i n d i n g Outside
Binding Curves
O u t s i d e Curves
curved edge
Practice is required to bind aa curved properly.
edge properly.
edge to be bound must
T h e edge
The be allowed
m u s t be to pass
allowed to freely
pass freely

F I G . 44.
FIG. B I N D I N GAN
4 4 .BINDING CURVE
O U T S I D E CURVE
A NOUTSIDE

through the
through t h escroll a n dshould
scroll and be crowded
notbe
should not against
crowded against
w a l l of
the wall
the G u i d i n g should
i t .Guiding
of it. from the
be from
should be back
theback

F I G . 45.
FIG. OF
. S A M P L EOF
4 5 SAMPLE FIG. 4 6 SAMPLE.
F I G . 46. OF
. S A M P L E OF

CURVE
O U T S I D E CURVE
OUTSIDE INSIDE CURVE
I N S I D E CURVE
 4646

ofofthetheBinder
Binder and
and to to
thethe left,left, allowinunfinished
allowing g unfinis hed
edges to swing n a t u r a l l y into the scroll of the B
edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the Binder. inder.
Never pull the binding as i t feeds through
Never pull the binding as it feeds through thethe
Binder, as bias materi al is v e r y easily stretch ed
Binder, as bias material is very easily stretched and and
will be too narrow when i t reaches the needle.
will be too narrow when it reaches the needle. When When
this occurs the edges w i l l not be turned .
this occurs the edges will not be turned.
When binding a curved edge (see F i g . 44), t
When binding a curved edge (see Fig. 44), turn urn
the materia l only as fast as the machin e sews.
the material only as fast as the machine sews. ItI is t is
not possible to hold the m a t e r i a l i n the entire length
not possible to hold the material in the entire length
ofofthe
the scroll when binding a s m a l l curve.
scroll when binding a small curve.
Do not push the m a t e r i a l i n too fast, as the edge
Do not push the material in too fast, as the edge
will then become pucker ed, and do not stretch
will then become puckered, and do not stretch the the
materia l or the curve w i l l not be the proper
material or the curve will not be the proper shape shape
when finished . I f the stitchin g does not catch
when finished. If the stitching does not catch the the
edge of the binding , the scroll should be adjuste
edge of the binding, the scroll should be adjusted d
aatrifle
trifle to the left.
to the left.

B i n d i n g Inside
Binding I n s i d eCurves
Curves

ItI twill
w i l l be necessa ry to practic e binding a n inside
be necessary to practice binding an inside
curve on various kinds of m a t e r i a l , as this curve
curve on various kinds of material, as this curve isis
found on nearly a l l garmen ts w h i c h m a y be finished
found on nearly all garments which may be finished
w i t h a bound edge.
with a bound edge.
W h e n binding an inside curve w i t h the B i n d
When binding an inside curve with the Binder, er,
straigh ten out the edge as i t is being fed into
straighten out the edge as it is being fed into the the
attachm ent. W h e n doing this, care should be
attachment. taken
When doing this, care should be taken
not to stretch the edge of the m a t e r i a l .
not to stretch the edge of the material.
I f the materi al is soft, like batiste or crepe
If the material is soft, like batiste or crepe dede
chine, add a row of machin e stitchin g close to
chine, add a row of machine stitching close 'to thethe
edge of the curve before binding .
edge of the curve before binding.
 47
47
F r e n c h Fold
A p p l y i n g a French
Applying Curve
F o l d to aa Curve

A fold is
F r e n c h fold
A French applied bby
is applied placing the
y placing material
the material
under the attachment
under a n d stitching
a t t a c h m e n t and the binding
stitching the in
binding in

4 7 . APPLYING
F I G . 47.
FIG. FOLDS
F R E N C H FOLDS
A P P L Y I N GFRENCH

position as
position nF
shown iin
as shown Fig. hne made
47. AA line
i g . 47. basting
by basting
made by
w i t h chalk
or with
or pencil may
or pencil
chalk or used as
be used
m a y be in
guide in
as aa guide
applying rows
applying rows where wanted.
where wanted.

T H E EDGE
THE STITCHER
E D G E STITCHER

attachment is
useful attachment
T h i s useful
This is
fastened to
fastened to the machine in
the machine in
place of
place presser foot,
the presser
of the and
foot, and
found an
be found
wiU be
will indispensable
a n indispensable
whenever stitching
aid whenever
' aid stitching mustmust
be kept
be accuratelyon
kept accurately ex-
theex-
on the
treme edge
treme edge of piece of
of aapiece ma-
of ma-
^terial.
terial. The T h eslots, numbered
slots,numbered
from11to
from to55in i nFig. serveas
48,serve
F i g . 48, as
guides for
guides for sewing together
s e w i n g together
insertionsand
laces, insertions
laces, embroid-
a n dembroid-
sewing in
eries,sewing
eries, position hem-
i n position hem-
medor
med foldededges,
orfolded pipingor
edges,piping or ^la, 4 8
FIG. 48
sewingflat
sewing braid to
fiat braid garment.
to aa garment. EDGE-STITCHEB
T H EEDGE-STITCHER
THE
 48
48
A d j u s t i n g tthe
Adjusting he E dge-Stitcher
Edge-Stitcher
After attaching the
After the edge-stitcher
edge-stitcher to the the machine,
machine,
t u r n the
turn the balance
balance wheel wheel slowly
slowlybby y hand
hand to see tthat
to see hat
the needle
needle goes through
through the center of of the needle hole.
hole.
T h e distance
The distance of of the
the line
lineof of stitching
stitching from
from the edge
of the
of m a t e r i a l in
the material i n the
the slots
slots can
can bebe regulated
regulated by by
pushing the
pushing the luglug (A, (A, FFig.i g . 48)
48) to the right
to the right or
or left.
left. !
I f iitt moves
If moves hard,
hard,put put aa drop
drop of of oil under the
oil under the blue
blue
spring, then
spring, wipe iitt dry.
then wipe

Sewing L
Sewing a c e TTogether
Lace ogether w i t h tthe
with h e EEdge-Stitcher
dge-Stitcher
I t is
It is difficult
difficult to sew
sew two
two lace
lace edges
edges together even
even
after basting,
after basting, but
b u t the
the edge-stitcher
edge-stitcher makes
makes iitt pos-
pos-

FIG.
FiG. 449.
9 . SEWING
S E W I N G LACE
L A C E . TOGETHER
TOGETHER

sible to
sible to sstitch
t i t c h on
on the very
v e r y edge.
edge. Place
P l a c e one
one edge
edge inin
slot 1 and
slot a n d thethe other
other in
i n slot
slot 4,
4, and
a n d adjust
adjust lug lug (A,
(A,
F i g . 48)
Fig. 48) uuntil
n t i l both edges
edges areare caught
caught bby y the
the stitching.
H o l d the two
Hold two pieces
pieces slightly
slightly overlapped
overlapped to keep
to keep
t h e m against
them against the the ends
ends ofof the
the slots.
slots. T Theh e thread ten-
thread ten-
sions should
sions should be be loose
loose to avoid puckering of
to avoid of fine
fine lace.
lace.;
 49
49
Lace and ribbon or other insertions can be set in
by using the same slots (1 and 4, Fig. 48). The ma-

FIG. rSKTxixGINixLACE
5 0 .SETTING
F I G . 50. ].a.ceINSERTION
IXSERTION

m a y be
terial may
terial over before
folded over
be folded placing it
before placing i t in the
i n the
so that
slot so
slot doublethickness
t h a ta adouble stitchedand
thicknessisisstitched a n dwillwill
out. The
pull out.
not pull
not T h esurplus l istrimmed
m a t e r i a is
surplusmaterial away
t r i m m e daway
to the
close to
close stitchingas
the stitching shown in
asshown i nFig. 50.
F i g .50.

w i t h the
P i p i n g with
Piping Edge-Stitcher
t h eEdge-Stitcher
P i p i n g is
Piping isvery e if thecorrect
a t t r a c t i v if the
v e r y attractive contrasting
correct contrasting
color is
color chosen for
is chosen for the material. Place
piping material.
the piping the
P l a c e the
piping, with
piping, w i t h its finished edge
itsfinished edge to left, in
the left,
to the slot 33
i n slot
( F i g . 48).
(Fig. Placethe
4 8 ) . Place theedge edge to to be piped in
be piped slot 4,
i nslot as
4, as
shown in
shown i nFig. . 51.
F i g 51.
preferably be
should preferably
P i p i n g should
Piping be cut bias,and
cutbias, should
a n dshould
becut
be cuttototwice twicethe w i d t hofofthe
thewidth (3,Fig.
slot(3,
theslot . 48)ini n
F i g 48)
edge-stitcher so
theedge-stitcher
the so that t canbebefolded
t h a titi can once.
foldedonce.

A p p l y i n g Bias
Applying w i t hthe
F o l d s with
B i a s Folds Edge-Stitcher
t h eEdge-Stitcher
Folded biastape
F o l d e d bias br a
m i l i t a r ybraid,
tapeorormilitary i d used forneat
, usedfor neat
colorful trimming,
andcolorful
and m a ybe
t r i m m i n g ,may sewnon
besewn onby placing
b yplacing
garmentunder
thegarment
the underthe edge-stitcher the
theedge-stitcher same asas
thesame
presserfoot,
undera apresser
under foot,and placingthe
a n dplacing thetape slot1 1
tapeini nslot
( F i g48).
oror4 4(Fig. maka
. 4 8 ) .ToT omake a square
e square corner,sew
corner, until
sewuntil
turningpoint
theturning
the reached,then
pointisisreached, remove the
thenremove thetapetape
 50
50
from the
from the attachment
attachment and a n dform
form the
thecorner
corner by
b y hand,
hand,
replace it
replace i t in
i n the
the slot
slotanda n dcontinue
continue stitching,
stitching, asas

F I G . 51.
FIG. 5 1 .PIPING
P I P I N WITH
G WITH T H EDGE-STITCHER
THE E EDGE-STITCHER

shown iin
shown n Fig.
F i g . 52.
52. To
T o space
space two
two or
ormore
more parallel
parallel
rows, a
rows, a guide
guide line such such as aa crease,
crease, chalk
chalk mark
m a r k or
or
basting t h r e a d should
basting thread should bebe used.
used.

F I G . 52.
FIG. 5 2 . APPLYING
A P P L Y I N GBIAS
B I A SFOLDS
F O L D S WITH
W I T H THE
T H EEDGE-STITCHER
EDGE-STITCHER
 51

S t i t c h i n g aaWide
Stitching W i d e Hem
H e m with
w i t h the
t h eEdge-Stitcher
Edge-Stitcher
AA wide
wide hem h e m on
on sheets,
sheets, pillow
pihow slips,
shps, etc., may
m a y be
be
stitched evenly
stitched evenly with
w i t h the
the edge-stitcher
edge-stitcher after
after the
the hem
hem

F I G . 53.
FIG. 5 3 .• MAKING
MAKING A
A WIDE
W I D E HEM
H E M

has been measured and

has a n d the
the
edge turned.
edge t u r n e d . Insert
I n s e r t the
the
edge in
edge i n slot
slot 55 as as shown
shown in in
F i g . 53
Fig. 53 aand n d adjust
adjust to to sstitch
titch
a s close
as c l o s e to t o the
t h e edge
e d g e asas
desired.
desired.
Making a
Making a French
F r e n c h SeamSeam
A n even
An e v e n French
F r e n c h seamseam
m a y be made by
may b y inserting
the two
the two edges
edges to be be joined,
joined,
w r o n g sides
wrong s i d e s together,
together, in in
slot 11 or
slot or 22 and a n d stitching
stitching
close to
close to the
the edge;
edge; then fold-
then fold-
i n g both
ing b o t h right
r i g h t sides
s i d e s to-
to-
gether and
gether a n d inserting
i n s e r t i n g the
the
back of
back of the
the seam
seam into into slot
slot
11 again
again and a n d stitching
stitching with with
E49.5
j u s t enough
just enough marginmargin to to con-
con-
c e a l tthe
ceal h e raw
r a w edges.
e d g e s . See
See
F i g . 54.
Fig. 54. FFIG.
I G . 54.
54. A
A FRENCH
F R E N C H SEAM
SEAM
 52
52
Tucking w
Tucking with Edge-Stitcher
t h e Edge-Stitcher
i t h the

D a i n t y narrow
Dainty t u c k i n g may
narrow tucking produced on
be produced
m a y be on the
the
edge-stitcher bby
edge-stitcher y inserting
inserting creased folds iin
creased folds slot 11 as
n slot as

FIG. 5 5TUCKING
F I G . 55. WITH
. T U C K I N GWITH THE E EDGE-STITCHER
T H EDGE-STITCHER

shown in
shown i nFig. 55,and
F i g .55, adjustingthe
a n dadjusting edge-stitcher to
theedge-stitcher to
right or
right leftfor
orleft forthe thedesired w i d t h of
desired width of tuck, upto
tuck., up to 3^
Successive tucks
i n c h . Successive
inch. m a ybe
t u c k s may creased by
easilycreased
beeasily by
folding the
folding m a t e r i a lata tthe
t h e material desireddistance
thedesired distancefrom from
previous tuck,
theprevious
the a n dthen
t u c k , and r u n n i n gthe
thenrunning lengthofof
thelength
thefold
the foldover straightedge
over aastraight suchas
edgesuch asthe edgeof
theedge the
of the
sewing machine cabinet. T h
sewing machine cabinet. The secret of good tuckinge secret of good t u c k ing
hes in
lies i naalight tension,short
lighttension, stitch,and
shortstitch, a n dfine thread
finethread
needle.
and needle.
and
 53
63
W I T H THE
S H I R R I N G WITH
SHIRRING GATHERER
T H EGATHERER

T h e gatherer
The fastened to
gatherer is fastened to the machine iin
the machine the
n the
manner as the
same manner
same the presser foot. Material
presser foot. placed
M a t e r i a l placed
gatherer and
under the gatherer
under stitched in
a n d stitched usual way
the usual
i n the way
be slightly
w i l l be
will gathered. Any
slightly gathered. fabric that
A n y fabric drapes
t h a t drapes
well is especially
well suited for
especially suited shirring wwith
for shirring i t h the gath-
the gath-
Most shirring
erer. Most
erer. w i t h the
shirring with gatherer is
thegatherer done with
isdone w i t h aa
long stitch and
long a n d tight tension. To
tight tension. increase the
T oincrease full-
the full-
ness of
ness of the
the gathers, lengthen the
gathers, lengthen stitch. To
the stitch. decrease
T odecrease
shorten the
fullness, shorten
the fullness,
the stitch.
the stitch.

F I G . 56.
FIG. T H E
5 6 .THE GATHERER I N
G A T H E R E R IN OPERATION
OPERATION

gatherer,iti is
thegatherer,
W i t hthe
With possibleto
t ispossible toshirr narrow
shirrini nnarrow
rows as
rows shown in
as shown F i g .56.
i n Fig. 56. The m a t e r i a lmay
T h ematerial be
m a ybe
guided as
guided easilyas
aseasily aswhenw h e nsewingsewing withw i t h the presser
thepresser
foot. Fine
foot. materials,such
F i n ematerials, such as batiste,silk
asbatiste, silk or net,
ornet,
m a y be
may beveryv e r yattractively shirred. Where
a t t r a c t i v e l yshirred. Where onlyonly aa
fullness is
slightfullness
slight required, as
isrequired, thetop
a tthe
as at sleeve
topofofa asleeve
aroundthe
ororaround neck,the
theneck, gathererwill
thegatherer foundvery
befound
w i l lbe very
convenient.
convenient.
 54

FIG.
F I G . 57. SHIRRING
5 7 . SHIRRING

A very
A effect m
pleasing effect
v e r y pleasing may gained by
be gained
a y be using
b y using
thread or
thread embroidery silk
or embroidery silk of color on
contrasting color
of contrasting on
bobbin. Fig.
the bobbin. shows aawhite
58 shows
F i g .58 white organdie collar
organdie collar
cuff set
a n d cuff
and red and
w i t h red
set with smocking made
green smocking
and green with
made with
gatherer, using
the gatherer, using fine cotton or
crochet cotton
fine crochet tatting
or tatting
t h r e a d on
thread on the a n d white
top and
the top on the
cotton on
w h i t e cotton bobbin.
the bobbin.

F I G . 58.
FIG. SMOCKING
5 8 .SMOCKING
 5555

RUFFLER
RUFFLER
L i n e s 1,1,2,2,3,3,4 4and
Lines a n d5 5shown
shownini nFig.
F i g 59
. 59indicate
indicate
where the
where the material
m a t e r i a l isistotobebeplaced
placedfor forvarious
various
operations
operations asasfollows:follows:

F I G . 59. T H E R U F F L E R AND ITS PARTS

FIG. 59. THE RUFFLER AND ITS PARTS

L i n e 1—the
Line 1—the correct
correct position
position forfor the the material
m a t e r i a l to,
to
w h i c h the
which the ruffled
ruffled material
m a t e r i a l is
is applied.
applied.
L i n e 2—material
Line 2 — m a t e r i a l to
to be
be ruffled.
ruffled.
L i n e 3—the
Line 3—the facing
facing for for the
the ruffle.
ruffle.
L i n e 4—the
Line 4 — t h e strip
s t r i p of
of piping
piping material.
material.
L i n e 5—the
Line 5—the edgeedge to to be
be piped.
piped.
Refer to
Refer to Fig.
F i g . 59
59 when
w h e n inserting
inserting the
the material
m a t e r i a l in
in
the miller.
the ruffler.
 56
56
The names
The names and
a n d uses
uses of
of the
t h e principal
principal parts
parts of
of the
the
ruffler are
ruffler areas
asfollows:
follows:
( S E E REFERENCES
(SEE R E F E R E X C E S IN
I X FIG. 59)
F I G .5 9)

A — F O O T ——the
A—Fool ^ t h e partpart by b y which
w h i c h the
the ruffler
ruffler is attached
attached
to the
to thepresserpresser bar. bar.
B—Foax
B — F O R A R M — t h e section
K ARM----the sectiont hthat at m u s t be
must be placedplaced
astride the
astride theneedleneedle clamp. clamp.
C—ADJUSTING
C — A D J U S T I N G SCREW
S C R E W—the screw that
— t h e screw t h a t regulates
regulates the the
fullness of
fullness of thethe gather.gather.
D — P
D—PROJECTIONR O J E C T I O N — t—the h e part partt hthat
a t projects
projectsthrough
through the the
slots in
slots i n the
the adjusting
adjusting lever. lever.
E —
E—ADJUSTING
A D J U S T I N G LEVER-L E V E R -the leverthat
— t h elever t h a tsets
setsthe theruffler
ruffler
for gathering
for gathering or for for making
m a k i n g a plait
plait onceonce at at
every six
every six stitches, stitches, or or once
once at a t every
every twelve twelve
stitches, as
stitches, as desired; also desired; also forfor disengaging
disengaging the the
ruffler, w
ruffler, h e n either
when either plaiting
plaiting or or gathering
gathering is is
not desired.
not desired.
F — A D J U
F—ADJUSTING FINGER-S T I N G F I N G E R-the partwhich
— t h e part w h i c hregulates
regulates
the width
the w i d t h or or size size of of the
the plaits.
plaits.
G—SEPARATOR GUIDE --the
G — S E P A R A T O R G U I D E t h eguide
guide on on thetheunderside
underside
of the
of the ruffler,
ruffler, containing
containing slots slots into which w h i c h the
edge of the
edge of the material is placed material is placed to keep keep the
heading of
heading of the the ruffleruffle even;
even; alsoalso forfor separating
the m a t e r i a l to be ruffled
the material to be ruffled from the material from the m a t e r i a l to
w h i c h the
which the ruffle
ruffle is is to be attached.
to be attached.
H — R U F F
H—RUFFLING BLADE—theL I N G B L A D E — upper blue
t h e upper blue steel
steel blade blade
° w i t h the
with the teeth
teeth at a t the
theendend to to push
push the t h e material
material
in plaits up
in plaits up to the needle. to the needle.
J — S E P A R A T O R BLADE—the
J—SEPARATOR B L A D E — t h e lower lower blue blue steel
steel blade blade
w i t h o u t teeth,
without teeth, which w h i c h prevents
prevents the the teeth of of the
ruffling blade coming
ruffling blade coming into contact w into contact i t h the
with the
feed of
feed of the machine, or
the machine, or the m a t e r i a l to
the material to which
which
ruffle or plaiting
ruffle or plaiting is to be applied. is to be applied.
T o Attach
To A t t a c h the
t h e Ruffler
R u f f l e r tto
o the
t h e Machine
Machine
R a i s e the
Raise t h e needle
needle bar bar toto its
i t shighest
highest position
position and
and
remove tthe
remove h e presser
presser foot. A t t a c h the
foot. Attach the ruffler
ruffler foot
foot
(A, Fig.
(A, F i g . 59)
59) to to the
t h e presser
presser bar b a r by
b y means
means ofof the
the
t h u m b screw,
thumb screw, a att the
t h e same
same timetime placing
placing the forkfork
a r m (B,
arm ( B , Fig.
F i g .59)
59)astride
astridethe theneedle
needleclamp
clamp as
asshown
shown
i n Fig.
in F i g . 60.
60.
 5757
T o Adjust
To A d j u s tthe
t h eRuffler
R u f f l e rfor
for Gathering
Gathering

T h e adjusting
The adjustingfinger
finger (F,
( F ,Fig.
F i g .60)
60) is
is not
not intended
intended
forgathering
for gatheringand andshould
shouldbe bemoved
movedforwardforward or oraway
away
from the
from theneedle,
needle,asasshown
shown ini nFig.
F i g 60.
. 60.

F I G . 60
FIG. 60

R a i s e the
Raise the adjusting
adjusting lever lever (E, ( E ,Fig.
F i g . 60)
60) andand movemove itit
to the
to the left
left soso that
t h a tthe theprojection
projection (D, ( D , Fig.
F i g .60)
60) will
wih
enter the
enter the slot
slot marked
m a r k e d "1" " V in i n the
the adjusting
adjusting lever lever (E)
(E)
when the
when the lever
lever is is released.
released. The T h e ruffling
ruffling bladeblade willwill
then move
then move forward
forward and a n d back
back once once at every stitch.
at every stitch.
I n s e r t the
Insert the material
m a t e r i a l toto be be ruffled
ruffled between
between the the two
two
blue blades,
blue blades, following
followingthe thelineline22 iin n F i g . 59.
Fig. 59. Draw
Draw
the m a t e r i a l slightly back of the needle, lower the
the material slightly back of the needle, lower the
presser bar a n d commence to sew.
presser bar and commence to sew.
T o make
To make fine fine gathering,
gathering, shorten shorten the the stroke
stroke of of the
the
ruffling blade
ruffling blade by by tturning
u r n i n g the adjusting screw
the adjusting screw (C, (C, F ig.
Fig.
60) upward;
60) u p w a r d ; also
also shorten
shorten the the sstitch.
t i t c h . To
T o make
make fullfull
gathering,
gathering, lengthen lengthen the stroke of
the stroke of the the ruffling
ruffling blade
blade
b y turning
by turning the the adjusting
adjusting screw screw (C) ( C ) downward;
d o w n w a r d ; also
also
lengthen the
lengthen s t i t c h . By
the stitch. B y varying
v a r y i n g these
these adjustments,
adjustments ,
m a n y pleasing
many pleasing varieties
varieties of of work
work can can be be accomplished.
accomplished .
 58
58
T o Make
To M a k e aa Ruffle
Ruffle aand
n d Sew
Sew iitt to
to a
G a r m e n t in
Garment i n One
O n e Operation
Operation

Insert the material

Insert material to
to bebe ruffled
ruffled between
between the two
two
blue
blue blades,
blades, as shoAvn iin
as shown n Fig.
F i g . 61,
6 1 , following
following the fin
line

FIG.
F I G . 61
61

2, in
2, i n Fig.
F i g . 59.
59. Place
Place thethe garment
garment toto which
w h i c h the
the
ruffle is
ruffle is to
to be
be attached,
attached, under
under the separator blade,
the separator blade,
following the
following theline
line1,1,i in
n FFig.
i g . 59. Proceed the same
59. Proceed same
for gathering.
as for
T h e edge
The edge of of the
the ruffled
ruffled,seam
.seam can
can be bound by
be bound by
using the
using binder.
the binder.

T o Ruffle
To Ruffle aand
nd S e w oon
Sew n a Facing
Facing
i n One
in O n e Operation
Operation

I n s e r t the material
Insert material to to be
be ruffled
ruffled between
between the two
the two
blue blades, following
blue blades, followingthe theline
line22i inn FFig.
i g . 59. Place
59. Place
garment to which
the garment w h i c h the ruffle
ruffle isis to
to be be attached,
attached,
under
under the separatorseparator blade, blade, following
following the the line in
line 1, in
F i g . 59.
Fig. 59. Place
P l a c e the
the material
material for for the
the facing
facing over over the
upper blue
upper blue blade,
blade, as as shown
shown in i n Fig.
F i g .62,
62,following
following
the lineline 3, 3, in
i n Fig.
F i g . 59.
59. TheT h e facing
facing maym a y be be straight
or bias
or bias material.
m a t e r i a l . IIff the
the facing
facing is is toto be be on on the
the
right side
right side of of the garment,
garment, placeplace thethe garment
garment and and
 59
59
the ruffle so
he ruffle so tthat
h a t the
the wrong
wrong sidessides are
are together. If
together. If
facing is to be
the facing be on
on the wrong
wrong side,
side, place
place the right
right
sides of
sides of the garment and a n d the
the ruffle
ruffle together.
together.

FIG.
F I G . 62
62

P i p i n g aa Ruffle
Piping Ruffle

I n s e r t the
Insert the material
m a t e r i a lto
to be
be ruffled
ruffled between
between the twotwo
blue blades,
blue blades, following
followingthe theline
line2,2,i in
n FFig.
i g . 59. This
59. This

F I G . (3a
FIG. 63

material must
material must not be over
not be over 11134 inches wide,
/1 inches wide, as
as
is carried
it is carried through
through the
the ruffler
ruffler with
w i t h the
the finished
finished
 6060
edge of
edge of the
the ruffle
ruffle to to the
the right
right of of the
theattachment
attachment
asasshown
shown in i nFig.
F i g 63.
. ,63.
The material
The material for for piping
piping mustm u s t measure
measure about about 14 3^
inch wide
inch wide when
when folded
folded in i n the
the center
center and a n disisusually
usuaUy
cut on
cut on the
the bias.
bias. Place
Place the thepiping
piping material
m a t e r i a l in
i n the
the
1 ruffler, following
ruffler, following the the line
line 4,4, iinn Fig.
F i g . 59,
59, withw i t h the
the
folded edge
folded edge ofof the piping to
the piping to the
the right.
right. TheT h e material
material
toto which
which thethe piping
piping and and ruffling
ruffling are are toto be besewn sewn
should be
should be folded
folded on on the
the edge
edge andand inserted
inserted in i n the
the
ruffler, following
ruffler, following the line 5,
the line 5, in
i n Fig.
F i g .59.
59.

T o Adjust
To A d j u s t the
t h e Ruffler
Ruffler for
for Plaiting
Plaiting
Raise the
Raise the adjusting
adjusting lever lever (E,
( E ,Fig.
F i g .64)
64) and
andmovemove
itit toto the
the right
right so
so that
t h a tthe
theprojection
projection (D, ( D ,Fig.
F i g .64)
64)

F I G . 64
FIG. 64

w i l l enter
will enter the
the slot
slot marked
marked '"6" ' 6 " in
i n the
the adjusting
adjusting lever
lever
when the
when the lever
lever isis released.
released. The T h e ruffling
ruffling blade
blade will
will
then move
then move forward
forward and back once.
and back once at every six
at every six
stitches.
stitches. To T o adjust
adjust the the ruffling
ruffling bladeblade to m a k e aa
to make
plait
plait onceonce at every twelve
at every twelve stitches,
stitches, placeplace the adjust-
the adjust-
ing lever
ing lever (E,
( E , Fig.
F i g . 64)
64) so
so that
t h a t the
the projection
projection (D) (D)
enters
enters the the slot
slot marked
marked "12" "12" in i n the
the adjusting
adjusting lever.
lever.
Insert the material to
Insert the material to be
be plaited
plaited between
between the the twotwo
blue blades,
blue blades, foUowing
followingthe the line
line (2,(2, FFig.
i g . 59). T h e size
59). The size
or width of plaits
or width of plaits is is regulated
regulated bby y the
the adjusting screw
adjusting screw
 6161
( C , Fig.
F i g .64) 64) and
a n dthetheadjusting
adjustingfinger
finger (F, ( F Fig.
, F i g 64).
. 64).
Toomake makea awider widerplait,
plait,move
movethe theadjusting
adjustingfinger finger
( F )
(F) back back or ortoward
t o w a r d the
theneedle
needle and
and turn
t u r n the
theadjust-
adjust-
ing screw
ing screw (C) ( C ) downward.
downward. To T o make
make a asmaller smaller
plait, turn
plait, t u r nthe
theadjusting
adjustingscrewscrew (C)( C ) upward.
u p w a r d . The The
distance
distance between between plaitsplaits is
is regulated
regulated by b y the
thelength
length
of s t
of stitch. i t c h .

ToT o Adjust
A d j u s tthe t h eRuffler
Rufflerfor
for
G r o u p Plaiting
Group P l a i t i n g and
a n dGathering
Gathering
T h e ruffier
The ruffler can
can be
be adjusted
adjusted for for group
group plaiting
plaiting by
by
lifting the
lifting the adjusting
adjusting lever
lever (E,
( E ,Fig.
F i g .65)
65) and
andmoving
moving

Fla.
F I G . 65
65

i t to
it to the
the right
right so so thatt h a tthe
thetoptopofofthe theprojection
projection
( D , Fig.
(D, F i g . 65)
65) enters
enters the the small
s m a h slot
slot indicated
indicated by b y the
the
star on
star on thethe adjusting
adjusting lever. lever. ThisT h i s should
should be be done
done at at
the points
the points where
where you y o u wish
w i s h to
to make
make the the space
space be- be-
tween the
tween plaits. The
the plaits. T h e ruffler
ruffler willw i l l then
then stop stop and
and
3lain stitching
plain stitching will w i l l be
be made.
made. When W h e n the the desired
desired space
space
las been
has been made,
made, adjust adjust the the lever
lever ((E) E ) soso tthat
h a t the
the pro-
pro-
jection ((D)
jection D ) enters
enters either either the the slot
slot m a r k e d "Q"
marked "6" or or the
the
slot m a r k e d "12."
slot marked "12." By B y alternately
alternatelymaking m a k i n g groups
groups of of
plaits
plaits and and plain
p l a i n spaces,
spaces, as as shown
shown iin n Fig.
F i g . 65,
65, very
very
attractive
attractive work work can can be be produced.
produced.
 62
62
T o Oil
To O i l the
t h e Ruffler
Ruffler

Occasionally apply
Occasionally applyaa drop drop of of oil
oil toto the the working
working
parts of
parts of the
the ruffler
rafter ata t each
each of of the
the places
places indicated
indicated by hy
the unlettered
the unlettered arrows
arrows in i n Fig.
F i g . 65.
65. After
A f t e r oiling,
oiHng, open•
oper-
ruffler on
ate the ruffier on aa waste
waste piece
piece ofof mmaterial
a t e r i a l to
to prevent
the oil
the oil soiling
soiling the
the work.
work. If I f the
the ruffler
ruffler does
does not plait
not plait
evenly, aa drop
evenly, drop ofof oil
oil mmaya y remedy
remedy the the trouble.

G e n u i n e "SINGER"
Genuine " S I N G E R ' * Needles
Needles sshould
h o u l d be
be
u s e d in
used i n "SINGER"
* * S I N G E R " Machines.
Machines.
T h e s e Needles
These Needles aand n d ttheir
h e i r Containers
Containers
are m
are arked w
marked i t h the
with the
C o m p a n y ^ s Trade-Mark
Company's T r a d e - M a r k "SIMANCO"
**SIMANCO" 1

Needles iin
Needles n Containers
C o n t a i n e r s marked
marked
* T O R SINGER
"FOR S I N G E R MACHINES"
MACHINES''
are NOT
are N O T ""SINGER"
SINGER" m a d e needles.
made needles. 2
 63

The "SINGER" Universal Threader and

Seam Ripper
Makes Threading Easy

T h i s useful
This useful little
little accessory
accessory enables
enables you
y o u to thread
t h r e a daa
handsewing
hand sewing needle
needle or or aa machine
machine needle
needle without
w i t h o u t eye-
eye-
strain.As
strain. A sshown
shown on on the
thefollowing
following page,
page, iti talso
also serves
serves

THREADING
NEEDLE
WITH
"SINGER"
N E E D L E
NEEDLE
THREADER
THREADER

as a
as a seam
seam ripper,
ripper, wwith i t h aa blade
blade set set aatt just
j u s t the right
right
angle for
angle for qquickly
u i c k l y ppicking
i c k i n g out
out stitches.
stitches. Both B o t h ends
ends fold
fold
into the
into the handle
handle llike i k e aa jack-knife.
j a c k - k n i f e . It
I t is
is sold
sold by
b y all
all
S I N G E R " Shops
"SINGER" Shops at a t aa reasonable
reasonable price. price.
 64
64

T h e "SINGER"
The " S I N G E R "Material
M a t e r i a l Gripper
Gripper

T a k i n gout
Taking outstitches
stitchesisisno
nolonger
longera atedious
tediousjobjobwhe:
when
you use
you use thethe "SINGER"
' ' S I N G E R "Seam
S e a mRipper
R i p p e rand
a n dMaterial
Material

O P E N I N G SEAM
OPENING S E A M WITH
WITH
" S I N G E R SEAM
"SINGER" " S E A M RIPPER
RIPPER
MATERIAL GRIPPER HOLDS CLOTH
MATERIAL GRIPPER HOLDS CLOTH

Gripper, as
Gripper, as shown
shown above. T h e gripper
above. The gripper acts
acts as
as aa third
third
hand, holding
hand, holding your your material
material while,
while yyou
o u pin,
p i n , sew
sew oror
rip. ItI tisissold
rip. sold by
by all
a h "SINGER"
" S I N G E R "Shops
Shops atat aa reason-
reason-
able price.
able price.
 R E L A T I V E SIZES
RELATIVE S I Z E SOF
O FNEEDLES
N E E D L E S AND
A N D THREAD
THREAD
(Classand
(Class a n dVariety
V a r i e t yofofNeedles
NeedlesUsed,
U s e d15x1)
, 15x1)
SIZE
SIZES S S I Z E SOF
SIZES O COTTON,
F COTTON,
OF C L A S S E SOF
OF WORK S I L KOROR
OF CLASSES WORK SILK
NEEDLES L I N E NTHREAD
THREAD
NEEDLES LINEN
G e o r g e t t e , chiffon,
Georgette, c h i f f o n , net, n e t , light
light
w e i g h t synthetic
weight s y n t h e t i c fabrics,
f a b r i c s , finefine
d i m i t y ,lawn,
dimity, l a w n ,batiste,
b a t i s t e ,anda n dotherother
f e a t h e r w e i g h t or s h e e r f a b r i 1 0 0 to
c s . 100 t o150
1 5 0Cotton
Cotton
99 featherweight or sheer fabrics.
O O&&000
F o r infants'
i n f a n t s ' clothes
c l o t h e s and a n d for for 00 0 0 0Silk
Silk
For
d a i n t y l i n g e r i e ; a l s o fine l a c e Twist
Twist
dainty lingerie; also fine lace
a n d all
and a l delicate
l d e l i c a t eorogossamer r gossamer
fabrics.
fabrics.
A l l medium,
All m e d i u m , light
l i g h tweight
w e i g h tsum- sum-
8
m e r t i m e fabrics.
mertime f a b r i c s . For c h i l d r e n ' s 800 to
F o rchildren's t o100 1 0 0Cotton
Cotton
11
11 c l o t h e s , d a i n t y w a s h a b l e d r e sses 00 Silk
S i l kTwist
Twist
clothes, dainty washable dresses 5
56-36 - 3 N y
Nylon lon
a n daprons,
and a p r o n s , glass
g l a s scurtains.
curtains.

L i g h tweight
Light w e i g h twoolens,
w o o l e n s , firmfirm dress
dress
s i l k s and
silks a n d cottons,
c o t t o n s , draperies
d r a p e r i e sand
and
14
f a b r i c furnishings.
fabrio f u r n i s h i n g s . For F o rsmocks
s m o c k s 606 0 to
t o 80
8 0 Cotton
Cotton
14 a n d m e n ' s fine s h i r t s . F o r g en- A A && B B Silk
S i l k Twist
and men's fine shirts. For gen- Twist
e r a l h o u s e h o l d s e w i n g ; for fine
eral household sewing; for fine
quilting
quilting
H e a v y cretonne,
Heavy c r e t o n n e ,madras,
m a d r a s ,muslin,
muslin,
d a m a s k s anda n d quilts.
q u i l t s . For 4 0 to
40 to 60
6 0 Cotton
Cotton
16
16 damasks F o r stitch-
stitch-
i n g a p r o n s a n d m e n ' s w o r k shirts. CC Silk
S i l kTwist
Twist
ing aprons and men's work shirts.
H e a v yweav
Heavy w e a ves e s of
of coating,
c o a t i n g , canvas,
canvas,
b e d ticking,
bed t i c k i n g , awnings,
a w n i n g s , porch
p o r c h fur-
fur- 3 0 to
30 to 40
4 0 Cotton
Cotton
18
18 n i t u r e c o v e r s , b
niture covers, boys' duck suits, o y s ' d u c k suits, DD Silk
S i l k Twist
Twist
w o r k or
work or sports
s p o r t s uniforms.
uniforms.

S u i t i n g , t i c k i n g , sacking,
Suiting, ticking, s a c k i n g , tar-
tar-
2 4 to
24 to 303 0 Cotton
Cotton
19 paulin, duck, drilling. F o r wash
19 paulin, duck, drilling. For wash EE Silk
S i l k Twist
Twist
uniforms a n d bedding supplies
uniforms and bedding supplies 6 0 to
60 t o 80
8 0 Linen
Linen
for hospitals
for h o s p i t a l s and
a n d hotels.
hotels.

B a g s , Coarse
Bags, C o a r s e Cloths
C l o t h s and
a n d Heavy
Heavy 4 0 to
40 to 606 0 Linen
Linen
21
21 Goods.
Goods, or very
or v e r y.
C o a r s e Cotton
Coarse Cotton

W h e n sending
When sending orders
orders for
for needles
needles be
be sure
sure to
to specify
specify
the size
the size required.
required.
 This Trade
This T r a d e Mark
Mark
is on
is on the A r m of
the Arm of Every
Every
S i n g e r Sewing
Singer S e w i n g Machine
Machine