Running head: TROPICAL DRESS

Sewing of Tropical Dress

Abbas Jamil

Roll# 15-211

Department of Fashion Design

Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design

October 23, 2017

Running head: TROPICAL DRESS

Abstract

The report is mainly about sewing of tropical dress with the help of pattern that was made
in pattern class. This dress is named tropical as it is worn in tropical areas. It is knee length flared
dress that have different lengths according to choices. The dress that is stitched has certain
design elements like front and back yoke is attached, belt is added with a stainless steel buckle in
front, collar is constructed while using double fusing just to give a stand look. The assignment is
all about to learn about complicated stitching of panels and incorporated hand sewing. Buttons,
hooks and eyes that were hand made through hand sewing and some other stiches to give it a
finished look.
Running head: TROPICAL DRESS

Contents

1. Introduction.............................................................................................................................................1
1.1 Materials............................................................................................................................................1
2. Method....................................................................................................................................................1
2.1 Ironing...............................................................................................................................................2
2.2 Cutting...............................................................................................................................................2
2.3 Fusing................................................................................................................................................3
2.4 Over Locking......................................................................................................................................3
2.5 Machine Sewing.................................................................................................................................3
2.6 Hand Sewing......................................................................................................................................5
2.7 Final Pressing.....................................................................................................................................6
3. Final Look of the Tropical Dress...............................................................................................................6
4. Conclusion...............................................................................................................................................7
4.1 Strengths...........................................................................................................................................7
4.2 Weaknesses.......................................................................................................................................7
4.3 Suggestions........................................................................................................................................7
TROPICAL DRESS 1

1. Introduction

"Tropical" is sometimes used in a general sense for a tropical climate to mean warm to
hot. According to normal understanding tropical dress is usually used in western countries that’s
why it is knee length in order to protect oneself from cool atmosphere.

1.1 Materials

Following material list was displayed in sewing class for making of tropical dress.
These are the mandatory things that were used for its formation.

Material name Size Color Quantity

Karandi Fabric 3.5 meter Tea-pink 1
Fusing (woolen) 1 meter white 1
Buttons 2 cm Tea-pink 3
Hook and Eye small ___ 4-5
Invisible zipper 60cm Tea-pink 1
Buckle 6cm Wooden or steel 1

 Stitching materials (scissors, chalks, pins, bobbin and bobbin case, threads etc)
 Pattern of the dress

2. Method

Following are the steps that were followed for the formation of tropical dress:

 Ironing
 Cutting
 Fusing
 Over locking
 Machine sewing
 Hand sewing
 Final pressing

2.1 Ironing a
TROPICAL DRESS 2

In the very first step, fabric was placed on ironing table for steam press. Steam press was
required to avoid shrinkage and for removing crimps.aa

Fig. 1.1 ironing of fabric

2.2 Cutting

After the ironing step, the fabric was placed on a large table for cutting where pieces of
pattern are arranged for cutting. The patterns are of standard size and made by standard
measurements. Bigger pieces will be traced first and smaller pieces afterwards just to handle
fabric wastage. After that cutting is done with the help of scissors, marking chalks and pins we
get following pieces:

 ten panels
 Front and back yoke
 Facings of yokes
 Front and back collars
 Belt
 6 loops
 Jets for buttons

Fig. 1.2 shows cutting

TROPICAL DRESS 3

2.3 Fusing

After cutting, fabric needs to be fused on some parts so that it will be easy to handle.
Panels, front and back yoke, hemline, collars and sleeve’s hem are fused. Basically fusing is used
to hold the fabric stretch.

Fig. 1.3 fusing the outer parts

2.4 Over Locking

Over locking is done on certain ends of the fabric in order to secure them from fraying.
Such layers that will visible after stitching from the wrong side of the garment will be overlocked
and the sides that will be visible needs overlocking. Arm holes, hemline, sleeve’s hemline,
yokes, all panel lines and one edge of collar needs overlocking.

Fig. 1.4 over locking

2.5 Machine Sewing

In the very first step of stitching, all the basic panels are stitched and press opening from
the wrong side is done. Then front and back yokes are stitched from the shoulder line and press
opening is done. Facings are sandwiched in between and then collar’s stand is attached.
TROPICAL DRESS 4

Fig. 1.5 panels attachment and press opening of dress

For sleeves attachment, first of all gathers are made according to the measurements that
were transferred from the pattern. Gathers are done through passing the loose running stitch and
then pulling it out in between the notches. After making the gathers sleeves are attached with the
yoke through running stitch at 1cm allowance.

Fig. 1.6 attachment of the

sleeve to arm hole.

Loops at the waist level are attached on the markings that were transferred from the
pattern. Make sure that all the loops are at same level.

Stitching of an invisible zip is a tricky phase. A zipper foot is needed to attach the zip.
Complete attention is required while stitching of zip because only a single stitch that will pass
through the zipper extreme edge can block the whole zip. After the stitching of one side the other
side is aligned with the reference of yoke level so that both parts of yokes will not distort.

Sewing of jets is also another technical part of it. Jets are made according to the
size of buttons which is 2cma in width. A rectangular box measuring 2.2cm * 1cm is cut
and another small piece is attached to flip it inside out. Next step is to do hand sewing
TROPICAL DRESS 5

from the back of the jets to make it functional. Little snip to the size of jet is done and
with hand, turn it outside in and blind hem stitch by hand will be done to secure its edges.

Fig. 1.7 jets and its attachments

2.6 Hand Sewing

Hand sewing includes all the finishing that are done by hand. Turning the hem of the
tropical dress at 4cm and then herring bone stitch is done. Same stitch is done on sleeve’s hem
and inside facings supposed to be attached with front and back yoke and at armhole level with
herring bone stitch.

Fig. 1.8 shows herring bone stitch at hem

Zipper end needs to be finish by hand, a piece of fabric of 4*4cm is placed at the end
point and blind hem stitch is done to secure the end of zipper.

Buckle of 5cm width is placed on the belt through blind hem stitch from the back side.
Buckle size is supposed to be the size of belt that is 5cm that’s why the buckle of 5cm is used.
Shape and color of the buckle can be of any type depends upon someone’s choice. Here it is
circular buckle.

Collar’s stand is divided into five equal parts where the four hooks are stitched at one
side of the stand. On the other side hook’s eyes are made through blanket stitches that are done y
hand.
TROPICAL DRESS 6

Buttons were placed by observing their right place and then they are stitched through
hand stiches with the garment. Placement was in the middle point of the jets. Number of the
buttons to be stitched with the yoke is 3.

2.7 Final Pressing

After all steps of machine sewing and hand sewing the final phase is final pressing. Final
pressing of the garment is mandatory to give it a finished and presentable look. All the panels are
supposed to be neatly press with proper seam allowances and press opening. Hemline needs a
proper pressing as it has a curve in round. Gathers on arm holes are not supposed to be iron. All
the panels, yokes, collar, facings and sleeves are pressed neatly for the final presentation.

Fig. 1.9 shows the final pressing of the tropical dress

3. Final Look of the Tropical Dress

The tropical dress’s final presentable look is shown below:

Fig. 1.10 shows the front view of

stitched tropical dress
TROPICAL DRESS 7

4. Conclusion

The tropical dress is the basic ten panels long dress which looks decent. The stitching is
done neatly. Final outcome looks adorable in this light tea-pink color. Such tasks helps to
understand the stitching and cutting of a technical garment.

4.1 Strengths

Stitching of tropical dress aids to understand the complete interlinked procedure from
design development to pattern making and from pattern making till final sewing e.g. stitching of
jets, attachment of sleeve to the garment with accurate measurement, hand sewing to give it
presentable look.

4.2 Weaknesses

This dress don’t have major issues but some minor issues are always seen. For example
stitching threads, unequal gathers, unequal seams etc. have major weaknesses but minor
problems may occur while stitching. Fabric quality also matters like if the fabric is not of good
quality then the seams will leave their impressions if they will rip.

4.3 Suggestions

 Tables for cutting areas should be increase.

 Number of irons should be increase.
 There should be more than 5 over locking machines.
 Required materials should be available at campus’s material shop.