B.Sc.

in Fashion Design and Apparel Engineering

Level-4, Term-1
Course Name: Garment Surface Ornamentation
Course Code: FAD – 404
Lecture-10-11  Introduction to Quilting and pin tucks.
 How to do all this techniques.
 Introduction to Mirror, beads, button, metal works.
 How to do all this techniques.

Quilting is the term given to the process of joining a minimum of three layers of fabric together
either through stitching manually by hand using a needle and thread, or mechanically with
a sewing machine or specialised longarm quilting system. An array of stitches is passed through
all layers of the fabric to create a three dimensional padded surface. The three layers are typically
referred to as the top fabric or quilt top, batting or insulating material and the backing.
Quilting varies from a purely functional fabric joinery technique to highly elaborate, decorative
three dimensional surface treatments. A wide variety of textile products are traditionally
associated with quilting that includes bed coverings, soft home furnishings, garments and
costumes, wall hangings, artistic objects and cultural artefacts.
A wide range of effects can be employed by the quilter that contribute to the final surface quality
and utility of the quilted material. The quilter controls these effects through the manipulation of
elements such as material type and thickness, stitch length and style, pattern design, piecing and
cutting. Two dimensional effects such as optical illusions can be achieved through aesthetic
choices regarding colour, texture and print.

Quilting techniques
Many types of quilting exist today. The two most widely used are hand-quilting and machine
quilting.
Hand quilting is the process of using a needle and thread to sew a running stitch by hand across
the entire area to be quilted. This binds the layers together. A quilting frame or hoop is often
used to assist in holding the piece being quilted off the quilter's lap. A quilter can make one stitch
at a time by first driving the needle through the fabric from the right side, then pushing it back
up through the material from the wrong side to complete the stitch; this is called a stab
stitch. Another option is called a rocking stitch, where the quilter has one hand, usually with a
finger wearing a thimble, on top of the quilt, while the other hand is located beneath the piece
to push the needle back up. A third option is called "loading the needle" and involves doing four
or more stitches before pulling the needle through the cloth. Hand quilting is still practiced by
the Amish and Mennonites within the United States and Canada, and is enjoying a resurgence
worldwide.
Machine quilting is the process of using a home sewing machine or a longarm machine to sew
the layers together. With the home sewing machine, the layers are tacked together before
quilting. This involves laying the top, batting, and backing out on a flat surface and either pinning
(using large safety pins) or tacking the layers together. Longarm quilting involves placing the
layers to be quilted on a special frame. The frame has bars on which the layers are rolled, keeping
these together without the need for tacking or pinning. These frames are used with a professional
sewing machine mounted on a platform. The platform rides along tracks so that the machine can
be moved across the layers on the frame. A longarm machine is moved across the fabric. In
contrast, the fabric is moved through a home sewing machine.

WHAT IS A PINTUCK?

Pintucks are simply a small tuck in the fabric. Most commonly they are stitched in place
but they can also be folded and pressed without stitching. Here I will show you the
stitched pintuck version.

Pintuck formed by folding and stitching the fabric on the right side (much like a pleat) and are
typically created in a group and are parallel to each other. This succession of folds creates sublime
volume and gives decorative effect.
Using a pintuck is purely decorative and doesn't have a function in sewing. A pi ntuck is
different from sewing a dart which creates shape in a garment. Create pintucks just for
fun!

The best fabrics for sewing a pintuck is thin to mediumweight. Heavier fabrics tend to add
to much bulk for multiple tucks. Think about using silk, satin, cotton voile, light cotton or
rayon. A heavily pin-tucked pattern will add stiffness to your design so think about how
that will affect your final product.

HOW TO SEW A PINTUCK EASILY

Pintuck and how to sew pintucks

SPECIAL FEET FOR SEWING A PINTUCK

Many machines come with a seam guide foot and you could also use a ¼ inch presser foot.
Both of these sewing machine feet simply make it easier to sew in a straight line as they
have a guide on the side that touches the edge of the fabric.
The seam guide foot on the left of the photo can adjust to different widths by screwing
the guide at different distances so has greater flexibility.

CUTTING PATTERNS FOR A PINTUCK

If you are only sewing one or two pintucks, it is easy to add a little extra to your pattern
piece by measuring the width of the pintuck and multiplying it by two (x2 since it is folded
over).

For heavily decorated pintuck pieces it is easiest to sew the p intucks in a large piece of
fabric first before cutting the actual pattern piece. Once you have a piece of fabric with a
pintuck sewn into it, you can lay your pattern piece on top and cut out your desired piece.

MARK THE LINES FOR PINTUCKS

Mark your pintuck lines on your fabric with either a removable pen or tailor's chalk on
the right side of the fabric. Marking enables you to get nice even, symmetrical lines.
Decide on the width you would like between the tucks. You may want the tucks to
completely overlap each other or you may want a nice space between the pintucks. It can
take a little experimenting to get the look you would like.

I experimented with ¾ inch (2cm), 1 inch (2.5cm) and 1 ½ inch (3.8cm) marked lines.

OPTIONAL: After I have marked the lines to sew along, I often like to press a crease into
each one. This increases accuracy for me as there is little chance of the tuck slipping in
the sewing machine but this is not traditionally done so may just be an extra step for you.
Press the creases with the fabric with wrong sides together and use steam or some water
spray to sharpen the folds.

HOW TO SEW A PINTUCK

I have used a contrast thread in this tutorial so you can see the stitching, but a matching
thread is amazingly forgiving of any crooked stitching or uneven pintucks.
Fold the fabric along the first mark with the wrong sides together and put it under your
presser foot.

Start stitching ¼ inch (6mm) or your desired width from the fold. You can see how my ¼
inch (6mm) foot guide is right on the edge of the folded fabric.

After you have finished the first tuck, keep repeating along all the marked lines until you
have enough pintucks for your project.
Personally, I quite like the texture of all the pintucks standing up straight but it make s it
harder to put into a garment.

So grab your iron and press all the pintucks to the one side.

PHOTO - From left to right you can see the ¾ inch (2cm), 1 ½ inch (3.8cm) and 1
inch (2.5cm) pintucks.

The ¾ inch (far left) ones were really hard to sew as they were almost on top of each
other. My preference is the look of the 1 inch apart ones which are on the far right.
SEWING PINTUCKS THAT ARE FANCY

This dress by Preen was worn by Kate Bosworth. Notice the beautiful pintucks in the side
panel which add texture and interest to an otherwise plain dress.
 MIRROR WORK

The basic purpose of mirror work was decoration on a plain fabric. Traditional belief of the evil
eye being warded off, through the deflection of the evil gaze from the wearer’s body, was also
partly responsible for the popularity of mirror work fabrics in certain regions. Today even the
fabric would be offended if it is not rewarded with multiple gazes.

Known as Shisheh (Persian) or Abhala Bharat embroidery it involves the affixing of small mirrors
or other reflecting metal in different shapes, on clothes or apparel, hangings, tapestries, and
other uses on cloth.

HOW IT IS DONE

Mirrors are fixed to the fabric by placing the mirrors in the desired places and putting cross
stitches over them in a pattern. The patterned stitches not only hold the mirrors in place but
additionally contribute to the beauty of the saree as designs. Stitches that are made to hold the
mirrors in place are generally chain stitch and herringbone stitch, though sometimes you could
see the spot step stitch, satin stitch or the blanket stitch being used.

Beadwork is the art or craft of attaching beads to one another by stringing them onto a thread
or thin wire with a sewing or beading needle or sewing them to cloth.Beads are produced in a
diverse range of materials, shapes, and sizes, and vary by the kind of art produced. Most often,
beadwork is a form of personal adornment (e.g. jewelry), but it also commonly makes up other
artworks.
Metal works