Ariaponics ltd.

Hydroponics Workshop.

PLANT NUTRIENTS

Nutrients are one of the basic requirements of any hydroponic system. In order for Nutrients to be incorporated into a
hydroponic system it must be soluble in water. If not, the plant cannot access it. The composition of the nutrients is
important and there are over twenty elements that are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen are
absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient
solution and need to be in the correct ratios. Any good Hydroponic nutrient should contain all of these elements;

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active
young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale
yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and
even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.

Phosphorus (P)
Phosphorus helps build strong roots. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and
flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant.
Leaves show brown or purple spots. NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.

Potassium (K)
It is especially important in the development of flowers then fruit. It activates the manufacture and movement of sugars
and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata
openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers
enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants
are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn
dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is
usually locked out by high salinity.

Magnesium (Mg)
it’s found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium
aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of
magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips
and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the
plant.

Calcium (Ca)
it’s fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in
roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new
growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also

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flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.

Sulphur (S)
is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. It is distributed relatively evenly
with largest amounts in leaves which affect the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within
plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and
stay narrower than normal.

Iron (Fe)
is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white
while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use
chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.

Manganese (Mg)
works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a
mottled yellow or brown.

Zinc (Z)
is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and
curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.

Copper (C)
is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and causes irregular growth. Excess of
copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this
property.

Boron (B)
is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in pollination and seed production.

Molybdenum (Mo)
helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and
fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.

Chlorine (Cl)
deficiencies begin with leaves wilting, and then become yellow before the wilted and yellow plant cells begin to die,
eventually turning bronze in color. The root tips also become stunted and get thicker than normal.

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 NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY

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 INTRODUCTION TO HYDROPONICS

Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture, which is the growing of plants in a soilless medium, or an aquatic based
environment. Hydroponic growing uses mineral nutrient solutions to feed the plants in water, without soil.

There are 3 Categories of Systems, Recirculating, Non Recirculating and Static Systems. Within these Categories there
are different designs and Methods.

WICK SYSTEM (Static System)

The Wick system is by far the simplest type of hydroponic system. This is a
passive system, which means there are no moving parts. The nutrient
solution is drawn into the growing medium from the reservoir with a wick.
Free plans for a simple wick system are available (click here for plans).
This system can use a variety of growing medium. Perlite, Vermiculite, Pro-
Mix and Coconut Fiber are among the most popular.
The biggest drawback of this system is that plants that are large or use large
amounts of water may use up the nutrient solution faster than the wick(s)
can supply it.

DEEP WATER CULTURE (Static System)

The water culture system is the simplest of all active hydroponic systems.
The platform that holds the plants is usually made of Styrofoam and floats
directly on the nutrient solution. An air pump supplies air to the air stone
that bubbles the nutrient solution and supplies oxygen to the roots of the
plants.
Water culture is the system of choice for growing leaf lettuce, which are
fast growing water loving plants, making them an ideal choice for this type
of hydroponic system. Very few plants other than lettuce will do well in this
type of system.
This type of hydroponic system is great for the classroom and is popular with teachers. A very inexpensive system can be
made out of an old aquarium or other water tight container. We have free plans and instructions for a simply water
culture system
The biggest drawback of this kind of system is that it doesn't work well with large plants or with long-term plants.

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N.F.T. (Recirculating System)
(Nutrient Film Technique)

This is the kind of hydroponic system most people think of when

they think about hydroponics. N.F.T. systems have a constant flow
of nutrient solution so no timer required for the submersible pump.
The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing tray (usually a
tube) and flows over the roots of the plants, and then drains back
into the reservoir.
There is usually no growing medium used other than air, which
saves the expense of replacing the growing medium after every
crop. Normally the plant is supported in a small plastic basket with
the roots dangling into the nutrient solution.
N.F.T. systems are very susceptible to power outages and pump failures. The roots dry out very rapidly when the flow of
nutrient solution is interrupted.

EBB & FLOW - (FLOOD AND DRAIN) (Recirculating System)

The Ebb and Flow system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray
with nutrient solution and then draining the solution back into the
reservoir. This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is
connected to a timer.
When the timer turns the pump on nutrient solution is pumped into
the grow tray. When the timer shuts the pump off the nutrient solution
flows back into the reservoir. The Timer is set to come on several times
a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and
humidity and the type of growing medium used.
The Ebb & Flow is a versatile system that can be used with a variety of growing mediums. The entire grow tray can be
filled with Grow Rocks, gravel or granular Rockwool. Many people like to use individual pots filled with growing medium,
this makes it easier to move plants around or even move them in or out of the system. The main disadvantage of this
type of system is that with some types of growing medium (Gravel, Growrocks, Perlite), there is a vulnerability to power
outages as well as pump and timer failures. The roots can dry out quickly when the watering cycles are interrupted. This
problem can be relieved somewhat by using growing media that retains more water (Rockwool, Vermiculite, coconut
fiber or a good soilless mix like Pro-mix).

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DRIP SYSTEMS (Recirculating)

Operation is simple; a timer controls a submersed pump. The timer

turns the pump on and nutrient solution is dripped onto the base
of each plant by a small drip line. In a Recirculating Drip System the
excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the
reservoir for re-use. The Non-Recirculating System does not collect
the run off.
A recirculating system uses nutrient solution a bit more efficiently,
as excess solution is reused, this also allows for the use of a more
inexpensive timer because a recirculating system doesn't require
precise control of the watering cycles.
A recirculating system can have large shifts in the pH and nutrient strength levels that require periodic checking and
adjusting.

DRIP TO WASTE SYSTEMS (Non-Recirculating)

The non-recirculating system requires less

maintenance due to the fact that the
excess nutrient solution isn't recycled back
into the reservoir, so the nutrient strength
and pH of the reservoir will not vary. This
means that you can fill the reservoir with
pH adjusted nutrient solution and then
forget it until you need to mix more.

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 COMPONENTS OF A HYDROPONICS SYSTEM

RESERVOIR
The reservoir is the part of the hydroponic system that holds the nutrient solution. The nutrient solution consists of
plant nutrients that are mixed in water. Depending on the type of hydroponic system, the nutrient solution can be
pumped from the reservoir up to the growing chamber (root zone) in cycles using a timer, as well as continually without
a timer, or the roots can even hang down into the reservoir 24/7, making the reservoir the growing chamber also.

You can make a reservoir out of just about anything plastic that holds water. As long as it doesn't leak, holds enough
water, and is cleaned out well first it can be used as reservoir. A reservoir also needs to be light proof. But it's easy to
make any container light proof by painting it, or wrapping it. Algae and microorganisms can begin growing with even low
light levels.

WATER PUMP
Most hydroponic systems use a submersible pump or Inline pump to pump the nutrient solution from the reservoir up
to the growing chamber/root zone for the plants. They will also come in a wide variety of sizes.
The submersible pumps are basically nothing more than an impeller that uses an electromagnet to spin it. They can also
easily be taken all apart to be cleaned thoroughly. You should clean both the pump and filter regularly to keep them
clean.
Inline Pumps are typically used for large Systems, require more plumbing and has higher power consumption.

DELIVERY SYSTEM
A hydroponic systems water/nutrient solution delivery system is really quite simple, as well as extremely customizable
when building your own hydro systems. Besides the pump, it's really nothing more than just the plumbing the
water/nutrient solution goes through to get to the plants roots in the growing chamber, and back to the reservoir again.
Typically the simplest and best materials to use for the nutrient delivery system are a combination of standard PVC
tubing and connectors, standard garden irrigation tubing and connectors, as well as blue or black vinyl tubing.

TIMER
Depending on the type of hydroponic system you build, and where you place the system to grow your plants. You may
need one or two simple timers. However we do recommend making sure the timer is rated for 15 amps rather than 10
amps. Fifteen amp timers are often called heavy duty; if not just check the back of the package or timer for the 15 amp
rating. Also try and get one for outdoor use, they usually have a cover and are usually water resistant.

AIR PUMP
Air pumps are optional in hydroponic systems. But using them has benefits. Air pumps supply air to the water and roots.
Air is pumped through an airline to air stones that create small bubbles that rise up through the nutrient solution.

For any other type of hydroponic system, the air pump is typically used in the reservoir. It helps to increase dissolved
oxygen levels in the water up and keep the water oxygenated.

Other advantages of using air pumps are that as the air bubbles rise, they keep the water and nutrients moving and
circulating, this keeps the nutrients evenly mixed all the time.

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 TESTING EQUIPMENT
pH Meter. Used to measure the Acidity or Alkalinity of the Nutrient Solution

TDS / Temp Meter. Used to measure the Total Dissolved Solids in the Nutrient Solution and also Temperature of the
Solution

TDS/EC Meter. Used to measure the TDS or the Electrical Conductivity of the Nutrient Solution

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 TESTS

pH
pH is very important in hydroponic and organic as well as regular soil gardening. pH is measured on a scale of 1-14 with 7
being neutral. Acids are lower than 7 and alkalis (bases) are above 7.

To be technical, the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen-hydroxyl ion content of a solution. Solutions ionize into
positive and negative ions. If the solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions then it is an
acid (1-6.9 on the pH scale). Conversely if the solution has more hydroxyl ions than hydrogen it is alkaline (or base), with
a range of 7.1-14 on the pH scale.

Pure water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (OH-) ions and is therefore pH neutral (pH 7). When the water is
less than pure it can have a pH either higher or lower than 7.

The pH scale is logarithmic, which means that each unit of change equals a tenfold change in the hydrogen/hydroxyl ion
concentration. To put it another way, a solution with a pH of 6.0 is 10 times more acidic than a solution with a value of
pH 7.0, and a solution with a pH value of 5.0 would be 10 times more acidic than the solution of 6.0 pH and 100 times
more acidic than the solution with a 7.0 ph. This means that when you are adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution and
you need to move it 2 points (example: 7.5 to 5.5) you would have to use 10 times more adjuster than if you were
moving the pH value just 1 point (7.5 to 6.5).

WHY IS pH IMPORTANT?

When the pH is not at the proper level the plant will lose its ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for
healthy growth. For all plants there is a particular pH level that will produce optimum results (see chart 1 below). This
pH level will vary from plant to plant, but in general most plants prefer a slightly acid growing environment (between
5.5-6.0), although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH of between 5.0 and 7.5.
When pH rises above 6.5 some of the nutrients and micro-nutrients begin to precipitate out of solution and can stick to
the walls of the reservoir and growing chambers. For example: Iron will be about half precipitated at the pH level of 7.3
and at about 8.0 there is virtually no iron left in solution at all. In order for your plants to use the nutrients they must be
dissolved in the solution. Once the nutrients have precipitated out of solution your plants can no longer absorb them
and will suffer deficiency and death if left uncorrected. Some nutrients will precipitate out of solution when the pH
drops also.

TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS)

Dissolved solids refer to any minerals, salts, metals, cat ions or anions dissolved in water. Total dissolved solids (TDS)
comprise inorganic salts (principally calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, bicarbonates, chlorides, and sulfates) and
some small amounts of organic matter that are dissolved in water. In Hydroponics the TDS in the Nutrient Solution, is
measured in parts per million (PPM).

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ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY (EC)

When a mineral fertilizer, such as potassium nitrate, is dissolved in water it splits into two changed entities called ions.
One of these has a positive charge, called a cation, in this case potassium ion, symbol K+. The other has a negative
charge, called an anion, in this case nitrate ion, symbol NO3-. Similarly, other fertilizers in solution also split into anions
and cations. The electrical strength of ionic fertilizer solutions can be detected by an electrical conductivity (EC) meter.
The higher the ionic concentration, the higher the level of EC, hence EC can be used as an indicator of solution strength.

NUTRIENT WATER TEMPERATURE

Hydroponic Water Temperature. Researchers have found the nutrient solution to be most effective if it is kept between
65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit OR 18 to 27 degrees Celsius

HYDROPONICS NUTRIENT GUIDELINE

Plants pH EC PPM
Broccoli 6.0-6.5 2.8-3.5 1960-2450
Cabbage 6.5-7.0 2.5-3.0 1750-2100
Carrots 6.3 1.6-2.0 1120-1400
Cauliflower 6.0-7.0 0.5-2.0 1050-1400
Celery 6.5 1.8- 2.4 1260-1680
Cucumber 5.8-6.0 1.7-2.5 1190-1750
Eggplant 5.5-6.5 2.5-3.5 1750-2450
Fodder 6.0 1.8-2.0 1260-1400
Garlic 6.0 1.4-1.8 980-1260
Lettuce 5.5-6.5 0.8-1.2 560-840
Okra 6.5 2.0-2.4 1400-1680
Onions 6.0-6.7 1.4-1.8 980-1260
Pak-choi 7.0 1.5-2.0 1050-1400
Peppers 5.8-6.3 2.0-3.0 1400-2100
Bell peppers 6.0-6.5 2.0-2.5 1400-1750
Hot Peppers 6.0-6.5 3.0-3.5 2100-2450
Potato 5.0-6.0 2.0-2.5 1400-1750
Pumpkin 5.5-7.5 1.8-2.4 1260-1680
Spinach 5.5-6.6 1.8-2.3 1260-1610
Swiss chard 6.0 6.5
Tomato 5.5-6.5 2.0-5.0 1400-3500

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