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Restaurant review: TOZI Grand Cafe – Battersea Power Station,

London
 29 December, 2022 (https://vadamagazine.com/lifestyle/food/restaurant-review-tozi-grand-cafe-battersea-power-

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 About Latest Posts

Tim Firmager (Http://Www.Seasonseatings.Net) Follow me

(http:
Tim divides his time being a Digital Consultant in The City and as a food and
travel writer across the globe. When he's not working as one of the Lifestyle Editors here at Vada,
he's planning his next trip, or on the lookout for the latest food crazes or unusual foods in London's
(http://www.seasonseatings.net)
markets.

Part of the new art’otel London Battersea Power Station, we were invited to visit the newly opened TOZI
Grand Cafe offering a menu rooted in northern Italian traditions. Here’s our review.

TOZI Grand Cafe

In a circular venue, TOZI Grand Cafe continues the stylings of its parent building art’otel London Battersea
Power Station, with artworks hung throughout including incorporating these as dividers between tables.
In the centre, integrated into the fabric of the space is a mobile of red shapes, some with integrated
lights, that, if aligned would appear to recreate a Picasso-style face. The outward facing part of the
circular room has floor to ceiling windows, which in warmer months we are told will open onto an
alfresco terrace.

On arrival (via the hotel rather than the direct hotel restaurant entrance, which is currently less-than-
obvious with the terrace not yet open), we were greeted by restaurant manager, Julian, who seated us,
and offered us a cocktail.
 (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4711)

Menu

Guests can choose from an aperitivo menu that includes barrel-aged Negronis, Bellinis or seasonal
spritzes, as well as an all-Italian wine list, perfectly matched to the food offering. We opted for the Olive
oil Negroni (£13), Italian Marmellata (£15), made with gin, lillet, Campari, marmalade and bitters. Both
were very clean and well-presented though with only one member of staff behind the bar at that point in
time, we did have rather a long wait for drinks.

(https://vadamagazine.com/img_4698) (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4700)
Olive oil Negroni Italian Marmellata

After eventually getting a menu, we had a look across the antipasti, cicchetti, pasta, and secondi
courses. We selected some Rosemary focacia (£5.50) as a small plate to share, which arrived promptly
with our pasta dishes of Pappardelle (£12.50) with braised wild boar and Paccheri (£12.50) with
cuttlefish, squid and olives. Both pastas were perfectly cooked (just a touch past al-dente), holding their
sauces well with rich flavours. With advice from Julian, we also ordered a bottle of red wine: Primitivo
Salento, from Puglia (£29) to share alongside our food.
 (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4704) (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4703)
Pappardelle Paccheri

For main courses, we both chose meat in the form of Veal Milanese (£26.50) with marinated tomatoes,
and Chicken breast (£22.50) served on polenta, with woodland mushrooms and kale, and a sharing side
of tenderstem broccoli (£5). As expected with good Italian food, the veal was simple, but very well done,
crispy on the outside but tender meat within. The chicken dish will appeal to both Italians and Brits alike,
reminiscent of a Sunday roast textures, but with creamy polenta and the earthy tastes of the
mushrooms.

(https://vadamagazine.com/img_4705) (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4706)
Veal Milanese Chicken breast

For dessert, we chose a Sfogliatelle Napoletane pastry each (£4.50) plus a Gianduiotto (chocolate) tart
(£8.75) to share. The former were light, crisp, and have no elegant way of eating them, so we suggest to
dive in and enjoy full immersion into puff pastry and cream. The latter was rich and smooth.

(https://vadamagazine.com/img_4709) (https://vadamagazine.com/img_4708)
Sfogliatelle Napoletane pastry Gianduiotto (chocolate) tart
Service

We visited on the first Friday after the restaurant launch, so the venue was at full capacity throughout
most of our service. There were plenty of serving staff, but clearly they have not yet got into the high-
performing rhythm that Julian has developed in his previous locations. We had a long wait to get a menu
and to place orders, and for the first hour there was only one person behind the bar when definitely two
were needed. Hopefully these points will iron themselves out over the coming weeks, as the team gets
into a steady routine of service. That said, Julian and the team were all friendly and approachable, and
when we did ask for something, we always received it with a smile.

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Overall thoughts

TOZI have a strong offering, adding to the rapidly growing restaurant scene in the new Battersea Power
Station development. This will be immediately noticeable to locals, but for those visiting (from both
London or beyond), we recommend TOZI as a comfortable, relaxed venue from the busyness of
Battersea Power Station and for those with an interest in art installations whilst dining – dining at TOZI
feels almost like guests themselves become part of the work of art that is the venue. Our meal would
cost about £80pp for three courses including cocktails and wine.

We are keen to go back in summer 2023 when we can get the full experience of a Bellini or Hugo Spritz
on the outdoor terrace in the sunshine, as a break from shopping at Aesop and the like inside Battersea
Power Station.

TOZI Grand Cafe is located at: 3A Electric Boulevard, London, SW11 8BJ

For more information on TOZI, the menus or to book, visit tozigrandcafe.co.uk

(http://tozigrandcafe.co.uk)

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About Tim Firmager

Tim divides his time being a Digital Consultant in The City and as a food and travel writer
across the globe. When he's not working as one of the Lifestyle Editors here at Vada, he's
planning his next trip, or on the lookout for the latest food crazes or unusual foods in London's
markets.

 (https://twitter.com/timmy_uk)
 (https://www.facebook.com/timfirmager)
 (http://google.com/+TimFirmager)
View all posts by Tim Firmager → (https://vadamagazine.com/author/tim-
firmager)

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