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by Emma Bermudez
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Gauge:
Stockinette Stitch on US 2s:
8 stitches & 10 Rows in 1”
Sizes in Pattern:
Materials Needed:
Glossary:
• K = Knit
• P = Purl
• Sl = Slip one (on right side, slip with yarn in back (knit wise), on wrong side, slip with
yarn in front (purl wise))
• Kfb = knit front and back
• Pfb = purl front and back
• P2tog = purl two together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (slip two stitches knit wise, knit the two slipped stitches together)
• K1tbl = Knit 1 stitch through the back loop
• K2tog = Knit two stitches together
• M1R = Make one right
• M1L = Make one left
Cuff/Jaw:
Two jaws are knit. The jaws are knit flat; do not join the stitches in the round. The first jaw
should remain on the DPN needle after being worked, or on scrap yarn if using circular needles.
It will be joined in the round with the second jaw at the Leg. Both jaws are knit separately, then
are joined in the round on R1 of the Leg.
Cast on 36 (40, 44) stitches in Color C on US 1 DPNs using a slip knot cast on.
Repeat R1-2 three more times. You are ending with a Purl row (ending with R2). You should
have 8 rows total. Break Color C.
Size Small: There should be 24 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and repeat work for second
jaw. When second jaw is finished, do not cut yarn of second jaw, continue to Leg instructions.
You should have the right side of the second jaw facing you.
Size Medium: There should be 26 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and repeat work for
second jaw. When second jaw is finished, do not cut yarn of second jaw, continue to Leg
instructions. You should have the right side of the second jaw facing you.
Size Large: There should be 28 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and repeat work for second
jaw. When second jaw is finished, do not cut yarn of second jaw, continue to Leg instructions.
You should have the right side of the second jaw facing you.
Leg:
Row 1 of the leg is connecting the jaws in the round. Place marker, or otherwise notate
beginning of round. Continue to work with Color A.
R1: Working across second jaw: Sl1, K23 (25, 27), Working across first jaw: K24 (26, 28), join in
round. (48, 52, 56 stitches)
R4: K2, M1L, K1, M1R, K18 (20, 22), M1L, K1, M1R, K26 (28, 30). (52, 56, 60 stitches)
R6: K2, M1L, K3, M1R, K18 (20, 22), M1L, K3, M1R, K26 (28, 30). (56, 60, 64 stitches)
R8: K2, M1L, K5, M1R, K18 (20, 22), M1L, K5, M1R, K26 (28, 30). (60, 64, 68 stitches)
R10: K1, SSK, K5, K2tog, K16 (18, 20), SSK, K5, K2tog, K25 (27, 29). (56, 60, 64 stitches)
R11: K1, SSK, K3, K2tog, K16 (18, 20), SSK, K3, K2tog, K25 (27, 29). (52, 56, 60 stitches)
R12: K1, SSK, K1, K2tog, K16 (18, 20), SSK, K1, K2tog, K25 (27, 29). (48, 52, 56 stitches)
Repeat R13 until work measures 3.75 (5, 5.5) inches from top of lip, or until desired length.
Then, continue onto heel flap.
Heel Flap:
You will be working the heel flap back and forth. All wrong sides are odd rows, and all right
sides are even rows. Heel flap is worked over 24 (26, 28) stitches.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until heel flap is at 1.5 (1.75, 2) inches or until desired length. Then work R1
one more time. When at desired length, continue to heel turn:
RS: Sl1, K12, K2tog, K1 turn RS: Sl1, K14, K2tog, K1 turn RS: Sl1, K14, K2tog, K1 turn
WS: Sl1, P3, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P5, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P3, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K4, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K6, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K4, K2Tog, K1, turn
WS: Sl1, P5, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P7, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P5, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K6, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K8, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K6, K2Tog, K1, turn
WS: Sl1, P7, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P9, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P7, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K8, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K10, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K8, K2Tog, K1, turn
WS: Sl1, P9, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P11, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P9, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K10, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K12, K2Tog, K1, turn RS: Sl1, K10, K2Tog, K1, turn
WS: Sl1, P11, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P13, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl1, P11, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K6 RS: Sl1, K7 RS: Sl1, K12, K2tog, K1, turn
WS: Sl1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl1, K7
Foot:
R1: Place marker or otherwise notate beginning of round. K7 (8, 8). Pick up 10 (12, 14) stitches
from the left side of the heel flap (approximately 1 stitch in every slipped stitch along the heel
flap), place marker, K24 (26, 28), pick up 10 (12, 14) stitches from the right side of heel flap
(approximately 1 stitch in every slipped stitch along the heel flap), K7 (8, 8).
R2: Knit until there are 3 stitches before the first marker, K2tog, K26 (28, 30), SSK, knit until end
of round.
Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 until stitch count has reached 48 (52, 56). After stitch count is reached,
work R4.
Repeat Round 4 until the foot, from back of heel flap, reaches 3.75, (4.5, 5.5) inches, or
approximately 2.5 inches less than desired length.
Remove beginning of round marker. K11 (12, 13). Place beginning of round marker. This will be
one stitch off from centered but will allow for the toe pattern to be centered. This will not
affect the fit of the sock.
This will leave 23 (25, 27) stitches on the sole, and 25 (27, 29) stitches on top of foot.
Cut Color A, and attach Color B. The toe is worked entirely in Color B.
R1: Place beginning of round marker, K25 (27, 29), place marker, K23 (25, 27)
R2-6: (K1tbl, P1) x 12 (13, 14), K1tbl, K23 (25, 27). This will establish the twisted rib pattern.
R7: SSK, (K1tbl, P1) x 10 (11, 12), K1tbl, K2tog, K23 (25, 27)
This will make top of foot stitches 23 (25, 27), matching the stitch count of the sole stitches.
R8: Work twisted rib pattern across top of foot, knit all sole stitches
R9: SSK, continue twisted rib pattern on top of foot until two stitches before first marker,
K2tog, SSK, knit until 2 stitches remain before beginning/end of round marker, K2tog
Repeat Rounds 8-9 until you have 18 stitches total (9 for sole, 9 for top of foot)
Cut yarn and graft all stitches together using the Kitchener stitch.
CO 16 on US 2 DPNs in Color B, join in round. Leave a 12-inch tail to sew on the fins.
R11: [K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, Pfb, P1, K1tbl, Pfb, P1, K1tbl, P3] x 2
If you would like a longer fin, repeat R16 until desired length.
When at desired length, graft the stitches together with 16 stitches on each side using the
Kitchener stitch.
CO 20 on US 2 DPNs in Color B, join in round. Leave a 12-inch tail to sew on the fins.
R7: [K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, Pfb, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, Pfb, K1tbl, P2] x 2
R8: [K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P2] x 2
R9: [K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, Pfb, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P2] x 2
R13: [K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, Pfb, P1, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, Pfb, P1, K1tbl, P3] x 2
R14: [K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, P2, K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, P3] x 2
R15: [K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, Pfb, P1, K1tbl, P3, K1tbl, P3] x 2
If you would like a longer fin, repeat R18 until desired length.
When at desired length, graft the stitches together with 20 stitches on each side using the
Kitchener stitch.
Finishing Details:
Sew buttons onto eye spots. Caution: Be careful about using buttons for little ones!! If you
think there might be any risk, ere on the side of caution and use felt cut to the same size
instead of buttons. Buttons are a choking hazard, especially when accessible on reachable little
feet to little hands. You can glue, then sew on the felt. It’ll still look great!
Sew on fins using cast on end. Sew about halfway between the eyes and the start of the heel
flap (or higher if you’re concerned about tripping).