Crikey

Crikey!
by Emma Bermudez
If you have questions, you can email me at: emmabermudezdesigns@gmail.com
Please include the size you are working on and the pattern name in your email.
If your question is related to knitting term or technique, please try Googling it prior
to emailing me.
© Emma Bermudez Designs 1

BEFORE YOU KNIT:
Gauge:
Stockinette Stitch on US 2s:

22 stitches x 33 rows in 3 inches
Sizes in Pattern:
• Child’s Large/Woman's Small (approximately women’s shoe size US 5-7)

• Woman's Medium (approximately women’s shoe size US 7.5-9)
• Woman's Large/Men's Small (approximately women’s shoe size US 9.5-10)
Materials Needed:
• 400 - 550 yards in sock weight yarn

o Pattern uses Palette Tonal in Sherwood
• (4) 5/8th inch yellow buttons with four holes
• (4) US 1 DPN
• (4) US 2 DPN
• Tapestry/Yarn Needle
• Felt for teeth
• (3) stitch markers – one beginning of round marker, two standard markers
Glossary:
• K = Knit
• P = Purl
• Sl1 = slip one with yarn in back (Knit wise) when working on the right side, and
slip one with yarn in front (Purl wise) when working on the wrong side
• SSK = slip, slip, Knit (slip two stitches Knit wise, Knit the two slipped stitches
together)
• K2tog = Knit two stitches together
• MB = Make bobble stitch
o [K1, P1, K1] in 1 stitch, turn
o P3, turn
o K3, turn
o P3, turn
o K3tog, continue with pattern instructions
• Wrap and turn = Slip 1 stitch, wrap yarn around stitch, place stitch back on other
needle, turn
• Kfb = knit front back
• M1L = make one left
• M1R = make one right

PATTERN:
Cuff/Mouth:
The cuff/mouth includes both the Upper Jaw, and the Lower Jaw. The Upper Jaw
should remain on the DPN needle after being worked, or on scrap yarn if using circular
needles. It will be joined in the round with the second jaw at the Leg. Both jaws are knit
separately then are joined in the round on R1 of the Leg.
Upper Jaw: (includes nose, up to just before the eyes begin):
Working flat on US 1 double pointed needles:
CO 64 (68, 72)
R1: Sl1, K63 (67, 71), turn
R2: Sl1, P63 (67, 71), turn
Repeat R1-2 two more times, then work R1 one more time. You are ending with a KNIT
row (ending with R1). You should have 7 rows total. The lip is reverse stockinette stitch.
Switch to US 2 double pointed needles
R3: Sl1, K32 (34, 36), K2tog, K1, turn
R4: Sl1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn
R5: Sl1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn
R7: Sl1, K1, MB, K2, MB, K1, K2tog, K1, turn

Size Small: There should be 34 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and continue to
lower jaw!

Size Medium: There should be 36 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and continue to
lower jaw!
Size Large: There should be 38 stitches left on the needle. Cut yarn and continue to
lower jaw!
Lower Jaw:
Working flat with US 1 double pointed needles:
CO 52 (56, 60)
R1: Sl1, K51 (55, 59), turn
R2: Sl1, P51 (55, 59), turn
Repeat R1-2 two more times, then work R1 one more time. You are ending with a KNIT
row (ending with R1). You should have 7 rows total. The lip is reverse stockinette stitch.
Switch to US 2 double pointed needles
R3: Sl1, K25 (27, 29), K2tog, K1, turn

R13: Sl1, K10, K2tog, K0 (1, 1), turn
R14: Sl1, P10 (11, 11), P2tog, P0 (1, 1), turn
R15: Sl1, K10 (12, 12), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn
R16: Sl1, P11 (12, 13), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn
R17: Sl1, K12 (12, 14), K2tog, K0 (1, 0), turn
R18: Sl1, P12 (13, 14), P2tog, P0 (1, 0), turn
R19: Sl1, K12 (14, 14), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn
R20: Sl1, P13 (14, 15), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn
R21: Sl1, K14 (14, 16), K2tog, K0 (1, 0), turn
R22: Sl1, P14 (15, 16), P2tog, P0 (1, 0), turn
R23: Sl1, K14 (16, 16), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn
R24: Sl1, P15 (16, 17), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn
R25: Sl1, K16 (16, 18), K2tog, K0 (1, 0), turn
R26: Sl1, P16 (17, 18), P2tog, P0 (1, 0), turn
R27: Sl1, K16 (18, 18), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn
R28: Sl1, P17 (18, 19), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn
R29: Sl1, K18 (18, 20), K2tog, K0 (1, 0), turn
R30: Sl1, P18 (19, 20), P2tog, P0 (1, 0), turn
R31: Sl1, K18 (20, 20), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn

R32: Sl1, P19 (20, 21), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn
Size Small: 22 stitches should be left on the needle. Do not break yarn. Stop here and
continue to the Leg
R33: Sl1, K20 (22), K2tog, K1 (0), turn
R34: Sl1, P21 (22), P2tog, P1 (0), turn
Size Medium: 24 stitches should be left on the needle. Do not break yarn. Stop here
and continue with the Leg
Size Large:
26 stitches should be left on the needle. Do not break yarn. Stop here and continue
with the Leg
Leg: Row 1 of the leg is connecting Upper and Lower jaws in the round. Place marker,
or otherwise notate beginning of round.
R1: Working across Lower Jaw: Sl1, K21 (23, 25), Working across Upper Jaw: K12 (13,
13), M1L, K2, M1R, K6 (6, 8), M1L, K2, M1R, K12 (13, 13), join in round. (60, 64, 68
stitches)
R2: K35 (38, 40), M1L, K2, M1R, K8 (8, 10), M1L, K2, M1R, K13 (14, 14). (64, 68, 72
stitches)
R3: K33 (36, 38), P1, K2, M1L, K2, M1R, K10 (10, 12), M1L, K2, M1R, K2, P1, K11 (12,
12). (68, 72, 76 stitches)
12). (72, 76, 80 stitches)

12). (76, 80, 84 stitches)
12). (80, 84, 88 stitches)
R7-9: K33 (36, 38), P1, K34 (34, 36), P1, K11 (12, 12). (80, 84, 88 stitches)
R10: K33 (36, 38), P1, K5, K2tog, SSK, K16 (16, 18), K2tog, SSK, K5, P1, K11 (12, 12).
(76, 80, 84 stitches)
(72, 76, 80 stitches)
(68, 72, 76 stitches)
(64, 68, 72 stitches)
(60, 64, 68 stitches)
R15: Knit all stitches
R16: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), P1, K4, P1, K34, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R17: K3 (2, 1), P2, K12 (16, 20), P2, K3, P2, K34, P2, K0 (1, 2)
R18: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), P1, K4, P1, K34, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R19-21: Knit all stitches
R22: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), (P1, K4) x 3 , P1, K14, (P1, K4) x 2, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R23: K3 (2, 1), P2, K12 (16, 20), (P2, K3) x 3, P2, K14, (P2, K3) x 2, P2, K0 (1, 2)
R24: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), (P1, K4) x 3, P1, K14, (P1, K4) x 2, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R29: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), (P1, K4) x 8, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R30: K3 (2, 1), P2, K12 (16, 20), P2, (K3, P2) x 4, K4, (P2, K3) x 3, P2, K0 (1, 2)

R31: K3 (2, 1), P1, K14 (18, 22), (P1, K4) x 8, P1, K1 (2, 3)
Repeat rounds 25-31 5 more times or until desired length ending with round 31, then
continue with the heel flap.
Heel Flap:
The heel flap will work back and forth over 30 (32, 34) stitches.
R1: K26 (28, 30), turn
R2: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
R3: Sl1, K29 (31, 33), turn
R4: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
R5: Sl1, K1 (0, 0), P1, K4, P1, K14 (18, 20), P1, K4, P1, K2 (1, 1), turn
R6: Sl1, P1 (0, 0), K2, P3, K2, P12 (16, 18), K2, P3, K2, P2 (1, 1), turn
R8: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
R9: Sl1, K29 (31, 33), turn
R10: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
R11: Sl1, K29 (31, 33), turn
R15: Sl1, K29 (31, 33), turn
R16: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
R17: Sl1, K29 (31, 33), turn

R18: Sl1, P29 (31, 33), turn
Repeat rows 5-18 until heal flap is at 2.5 inches or until desired length. Reference sock
has 2 repeats. When at desired length continue onto heel turn:
Heel turn:
Small: Medium: Large:

RS: Sl, K15, SSK, K1, turn RS: Sl, K16, SSK, K1, turn RS: Sl, K18, SSK, K1, turn
WS: Sl, P3, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl, P3, P2Tog, P1, turn WS: Sl, P5, P2Tog, P1, turn
RS: Sl, K8 RS: Sl, K8 RS: Sl, K9
Foot:
R1: Place marker or otherwise notate beginning of round. K9 (9, 10). Pick up 13 (15,
17) stitches from the left side of the heel flap (approximately 1 stitch in every slipped
stitch along the heel flap), place marker, work across the top of foot in pattern, pick up
13 (15, 17) stitches from the right side of heel flap (approximately 1 stitch in every
slipped stitch along the heel flap), K9 (9, 10).
Gusset decreases:
Note: The top of foot pattern will include the last 4 picked up stitches on the left side of
the gusset, and the first 4 picked up stitches on the right side of the gusset. Placing a
stitch marker at these points may be helpful in differentiating stitches that are used in
top of foot pattern. (8 total sole stitches will be used in the top of foot pattern, 4 on
each side)
R2: Knit until there are 6 stitches before the first marker, K2tog, work top of foot in
pattern (see below), SSK, Knit till end of round.
R3: Knit until there are 4 stitches before marker, work top of foot in pattern (see
below), Knit till end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 & 3 until stitch count has reached 58 (62, 66).
Once gusset decreases are completed, work R4.
R4: K10 (11, 12), work top of foot in pattern (see below), knit till end of round.
Repeat R4 until work measures 3.5 inches from end of foot. This should be
approximately 4.75 (5.5, 6.25) inches.
Top of foot pattern:
R5: K1 (2, 3), (P1, K4) x 7, P1, K1 (2, 3)
R6: K0 (1, 2), (P2, K3) x 3, P2, K4, (P2, K3) x 3, P2, K0 (1, 2)
R7: K1 (2, 3), (P1, K4) x 7, P1, K1 (2, 3)
Repeat rounds 1-7 for the top of foot pattern until addressed above ending with R7.
On last repeat round, do not knit last 14 (15, 16) stitches.
Toe:
Remove current stitch markers. Place all sole stitches on one needle, and all top of foot
stitches on one needle, or continue with the knowledge that they are being treated as
such. New beginning of round will be at the start of sole stitches. Place beginning of
round marker here, if desired.
This will leave 28 (30, 32) stitches on the sole, and 30 (32, 34) stitches on top of foot.

R1: K1 (0, 0), K2tog, M1R, K22 (26, 28), M1L, SSK, K31 (32, 34)
For Medium and Large:
At the end of round 3, do not knit last stitch and slip onto needle with sole
stitches. This will be the new start of round. Place beginning of round marker
here.
R4: K2tog, M1R, K24 (28, 30), M1L, SSK, K30 (30, 32)
R5: K30 (34, 37), (P1, K4) x 5, P1, K2 (2, 3)
R6: K29 (33, 36), (P2, K3) x 2, P2, K4, (P2, K3) x 2, P2, K1 (1, 2)
At the end of R6, knit one extra stitch. This will be the new start of round. Place
beginning of round marker here.
R7: K26 (30, 32), M1L, SSK, K1 (1, 2), (P1, K4) x 5, P1, K1 (1, 2) K2tog, M1R
R10: K27 (31, 33), M1L, SSK, K26 (26, 28), K2tog, M1R, K1
R12: K29 (33, 35), (P1, K4) x 5, P1, K3 (3, 5)
R13:
For Small and Medium:
K28 (32), M1L, SSK, (K3, P2) x 2, K4, P2, K3, P2, K3, K2tog, M1R, K2
For Large:
K34, M1L, SSK, (P1, K4) x 5, P1, K2tog, M1R, K2
R14:
For Small and Medium:
K34 (38), (P1, K4) x 4, K4

For Large:
K36, P1, (K3, P2) x 2, K4, (P2, K3) x 2, P1, K4
R15: K29 (33, 35), SSK, K22 (22, 24), K2tog, K3. (56, 60, 64 sts)
R17: SSK, K22 (26, 28), K2tog, K3, SSK, K20 (20, 22), K2tog, K3. (52, 56, 60 sts)
R19: SSK, K20 (24, 26), K2tog, K3, SSK, K1 (1, 2), (P1, K4) x 3, P1, K1 (1, 2), K2tog,
K3. (48, 52, 56 sts)
R20: K26 (30, 33), P2, K3, P2, K4, P2, K3, P2, K4 (4, 5)
R21: SSK, K18 (22, 24), K2tog, K3, SSK, K0 (0, 1), (P1, K4) x 3, P1, K0 (0, 1), K2tog,
K3. (44, 48, 52 sts)
R26: K21 (25, 27) P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K2, P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K5
R27: SSK, K12 (16, 18), K2tog, K3, SSK, P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K2, P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K2tog,
K3. (32, 36, 40 sts)
R28: K18 (22, 24), P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K2, P1, K2 (2, 3), P1, K4
R32: K15 (19, 22), P1, K2, P1, K5 (5, 6)
R33: SSK, K6 (10, 12), K2tog, K3, SSK, K0 (0, 1), P1, K2, P1, K0 (0, 1), K2tog, K3. (20,
24, 28 sts)

R34: K12 (16, 19), P1, K2, P1, K4 (4, 5)
Size Small
At the end of row 38, do not knit last stitch of row. Instead, move it to needle
with sole stitches.
Size Small and Medium
Cut yarn.
Size Large:
R39: SSK, K6, K2tog, K3, SSK, K2tog, K3
Cut yarn.
Arrange stitches so that the sole stitches include the K1 (0, 0), SSK, K2 (6, 6), K2tog,
K1 (0, 0) and so the top of foot stitches include the K2 (3, 3), SSK, K2tog, K2 (3, 3).
There should be 6 (8, 8) stitches for the sole, and 6 (8, 8) stitches for the top of foot.
Graft all stitches together using the Kitchener stitch.
Front Legs: Make four front legs. Note: Beginning of round does not really matter for
this. The rounds are stated to orient where you are when knitting the legs. If you follow
the directions, the legs will work out.
CO 14 on US 2 DPNs, join in round
R1-8: Knit 14
R9: K4, wrap and turn
R10: P8, wrap and turn
R15: K4, (pick up wrapped stitches and knit them as one with the wrapped stitch) x 3,
K4, (pick up wrapped stitches and knit them as one with wrapped stitch) x 3, K2
R16-27: Knit 14
R34: K4, (pick up wrapped stitches and knit them as one with the wrapped stitch) x 3,
K4, (pick up wrapped stitches and knit them as one with wrapped stitch) x 3, K2
R35: K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K3, K2tog, SSK, K3, M1R, K1, M1L, K1
R36: Knit 16

R38: Knit 18
R40-41: Knit 20
R42: K5, (P1, K1) x 2, P1, Kfb, (K1, P1) x 2, K5
R43-45: K5, (P1, K1) x 5, P1, K5
R46: K4, P2tog, (K1, P1) x 4, K1, P2tog, K4
Note: for the following slipped stitches, pull working yarn tight between them to draw
stitches together.
R47: K2tog, K2, (Sl1) x 2, (P1, K1) x 3, P1, (Sl1) x2, K4
R48: K2, (Sl1) x 4, (K1, P1) x 2, K1, (Sl1) x 4, K3
R49: K1, (Sl1) x 6, P1, K1, P1, (Sl1) x 6, K2
R50: K3, P1, cut yarn
Top of foot stitches should include Slipped 3, P1, K1, P1, slipped 3. Bottom of foot
stitches should include, the next slipped 3, K2, K3, P1. This will leave 9 on top and 9 on
the bottom.
Graft stitches together using the Kitchener stitch.

Back Legs: Make four back legs. Note: Beginning of round does not really matter for
this. The rounds are stated to orient where you are when knitting the legs. If you follow
the directions, the legs will work out.
CO 18 stitches on US 2 DPNs, join in round
R1: Knit 18
R2: Knit 18
R3: SSK, K14, K2tog

R16: K2, (pick up wrapped stitch and knit them together) x 6, K2, (pick up wrapped
stitch and knit them together) x 6, K1
R17: repeat rows R4-16
R18-28: Knit 16
R29: K6, K2tog, SSK, K6
R36: K4, (pick up wrapped stitch and knit them together) x 3, K4, (pick up wrapped
stitch and knit them together) x 3, K2
R38: Knit 16
R40: Knit 18
R42-43: Knit 20

R44: K5, (P1, K1) x 2, P1, Kfb, (K1, P1) x 2, K5
R45-46: K5, (P1, K1) x 5, P1, K5
R47: K4, P2tog, (K1, P1) x 4, K1, P2tog, K4
Note: for the following slipped stitches, pull working yarn tight between them to draw
sides together and to flatten the foot.
R48: K2tog, K2, (Sl1) x 2, (P1, K1) x 3, P1, (Sl1) x 2, K4
R49: K2, (Sl1) x 4, (K1, P1) x 2, K1, (Sl1) x 4, K3
R50: K1, (Sl1) x 6, P1, K1, P1, (Sl1) x 6, K2
R51: K3, P1, cut yarn
Top of foot stitches should include Slipped 3, P1, K1, P1, slipped 3. Bottom of foot
stitches should include, the next slipped 3, K2, K3, P1. This will leave 9 on top and 9 on
the bottom.
Graft stitches together using the Kitchener stitch.
Finishings:
Sew corner of mouth together so the upper jaw slightly overlaps the lower jaw. Sew
buttons onto eye flaps. Completely sew the button on to the outside/first layer of the

eye flap. Once sewn on, sew thread through both front and back layer of the eye flap,
twice, to make the eye flap stand up straight.
To make the eyes more pupil like, sew buttons as instructed in the illustrations above -
following the dark red line. Repeat this pattern until button is attached and eye appears
complete.
Leg placement:
Sew on front legs about 1 inch behind the eyes and about half an inch above the corner
of the mouth.
Back leg placement may depend on how long you make the body, but if following the
pattern length as specified, sew back legs at the start of heel flap and about an inch
higher than the corner of the mouth.
Teeth:
Take your white felt and trace the design below.
Or, feel free to design your own teeth!
If using tooth template, measure the 1-inch x 1-inch box after printing page to make
sure the design is the right size.
Sew into mouth under the curled flap with thread.
Weave in ends, wash, block and enjoy!

1 inch
x
1 inch
box

Crikey

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Crikey!

If you have questions, you can email me at: emmabermudezdesigns@gmail.com

© Emma Bermudez Designs 1

Stockinette Stitch on US 2s:

• Child’s Large/Woman's Small (approximately women’s shoe size US 5-7)

• 400 - 550 yards in sock weight yarn

© Emma Bermudez Designs 2

Upper Jaw: (includes nose, up to just before the eyes begin):

Working flat on US 1 double pointed needles:

R1: Sl1, K63 (67, 71), turn

R2: Sl1, P63 (67, 71), turn

Switch to US 2 double pointed needles

R3: Sl1, K32 (34, 36), K2tog, K1, turn

R4: Sl1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn

R5: Sl1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn

R6: Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn

R8: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn

R9: Sl1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn

R10: Sl1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn

R11: Sl1, K10, K2tog, K1, turn

© Emma Bermudez Designs 3

R13: Sl1, K12, K2tog, K1, turn

R14: Sl1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn

R15: Sl1, K14, K2tog, K1, turn

R16: Sl1, P15, P2tog, P1, turn

R17: Sl1, K16, K2tog, K1, turn

R18: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn

R19: Sl1, K18, K2tog, K1, turn

R20: Sl1, P19, P2tog, P1, turn

R21: Sl1, K20, K2tog, K1, turn

R22: Sl1, P21, P2tog, P1, turn

R23: Sl1, K22, K2tog, K1, turn

R24: Sl1, P23, P2tog, P1, turn

R25: Sl1, K24, K2tog, K1, turn

R26: Sl1, P25, P2tog, P1, turn

R27: Sl1, K26, K2tog, K1, turn

R28: Sl1, P27, P2tog, P1, turn

R29: Sl1, K28, K2tog, K1, turn

R30: Sl1, P29, P2tog, P1, turn

R31: Sl1, K30, K2tog, K1, turn

R32: Sl1, P31, P2tog, P1, turn

© Emma Bermudez Designs 4

R34: Sl1, P33, P2tog, P1, turn

R35: Sl1, K34, K2tog, K1, turn

R36: Sl1, P35, P2tog, P1, turn

Working flat with US 1 double pointed needles:

R1: Sl1, K51 (55, 59), turn

R2: Sl1, P51 (55, 59), turn

Switch to US 2 double pointed needles

R3: Sl1, K25 (27, 29), K2tog, K1, turn

R4: Sl1, P1, P2tog, P1, turn

R5: Sl1, K2, K2tog, K1, turn

R6: Sl1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn

R7: Sl1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn

R8: Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn

© Emma Bermudez Designs 5

R10: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn

R11: Sl1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn

R12: Sl1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn

R13: Sl1, K10, K2tog, K0 (1, 1), turn

R14: Sl1, P10 (11, 11), P2tog, P0 (1, 1), turn

R15: Sl1, K10 (12, 12), K2tog, K1 (0, 1), turn

R16: Sl1, P11 (12, 13), P2tog, P1 (0, 1), turn

R17: Sl1, K12 (12, 14), K2tog, K0 (1, 0), turn