*WINTERIZING*

Here is PART 1 (the prep work)

You could take it to an RV center to have it winterized for $$$ or it can be easily done at home if you
have a few basic items. These items are all inexpensive and can be reused every year. They will
pay for themselves very quickly. This document will show you how to both winterize for the cold
weather and how to de-winterize in the spring.
To winterize your RV, you must get
as much water out of the plumbing as
possible. Just using gravity to drain
the tanks and plumbing is not
enough. Some of the water is caught
in low bends and will not drain. You
must blow the lines free of all water
using compressed air (MUST NOT
EXCEED 35PSI!!!).
(This sequence assumes the BLACK
and GREY water tanks have already
been emptied)

They are as follows

 Air Compressor that can be regulated down to 35PSI.
 A homemade blow-out adapter consisting of an air chuck clamped to a section of water hose
that has a male hose connector.
 A tool to CAREFULLY remove the nylon or brass
Water Heater Drain Plug.
Let's Begin...
1.) Turn off the gas and electric to the Hot Water Heater and
allow the water heater to cool down for several hours.

2.) Drain the fresh water tank.

(NOTE: We will deal with the FRESH WATER at the end of
PART 2)
3.) Place the ball valve for the Hot Water Heater in the By-Pass position. We will drain the Hot Water
Heater later in the process (in step 5).

4.) Run the pump and use the one of the facets to drain the water until water stops. Then turn the
pump off. (Note - some Rigs have an additional drain Ball Valve near the pump make sure to open
until the water flow stops, then close it)

5.) CAREFUL HERE!! YOU CAN GET BURNED by scalding hot water!!
If the Hot Water Heater has been off and the
water is cool, flip the lever of the
Pressure/Temperature (PT) Relief Valve lever
so it is horizontal so air can enter the
tank.(see water heater picture)

6.) Carefully remove the Water Heater Drain

Plug. Let the water drain and using the flush-
out tool rise out any debris and sediment in
the tank. If your drain plug has an anode rod
and it is corroded, you need to obtain a
replacement for next spring.

7.) Close the lever on the PT relief valve and apply plumbers tape to the Drain plug and install drain
plug. Turn off the Water Heater Circuit Breakers for the Winter and mark them with tape so they stay
off until next spring when there is water in the tank.
(Optional - if the drain plug is damaged, replace
with an Original "ATWOOD Brand" drain plug. I
would avoid the CamCo replacements found at
places like Walmart. They are of inferior
construction and crack very easily. If the tank
thread is damaged it needs to be carefully re-
tapped) part numbers can be provided for these
two items if someone needs them.

8.) CAUTION - Make sure your compressor is

set to no more than 35psi or you will blow every
plastic water fitting out of your rig. Now attach
your blow-out adapter (See picture) to the CITY
WATER connection.
Camco Water Heater drain plugs shown in
upper right are a thin wall design and crack
easily. They use a smaller size socket. The
Atwood plugs are worth the extra cost as they
are beefier and require the larger socket
9.) Hook up the compressor after verifying it is REGULATED to not more than 35psi. Turn the
compressor ON and enjoy the wonderful sounds of air pressurizing the water lines.

10.) Starting with the fixtures furthest away from the CITY WATER connection (...and listed here not
necessarily in that order.) drain the fresh water tank again to verify it is as empty as you can get it.
Turn hot/cold valves on each sink, shower, and toilet fixture and let the water blow completely out.

11.) If installed, remove the under sink water filter and install the by-pass plug. Open the tap and
verify all the water is out of this line.

12.) If equipped find the Washing Machine hot and cold taps and verify these lines are free of water
(Note: a section of hose and a water bucket are used for these).

13.) Blow out the hot and cold outside shower system. By now all water hot and cold lines should be
blowing air.

14.) Unhook your compressor and adapter.

OPTIONAL:
Drain your GREY WASTE WATER TANK one last time into a bucket to remove any accumulated
water and dispose in an appropriate location.

Next up PART 2

(Adding the nontoxic ANTIFREEZE)

 *WINTERIZING*
PART 2

This section assumes:

- You have already previously emptied your BLACK and GREY Water tanks.
- You have done all the prep work outlined in PART 1
- Your HOT WATER HEATER has been drained and the HOT WATER HEATER valve is in the BY-
PASS position (PART 1). WE ARE NOT ADDING ANTIFREEZE TO THE WATER HEATER!
- Your Fresh Water Tank and water plumbing has been drained and blow out (PART 1).
NOTE - We will NOT BE adding PINK NON-TOXIC RV ANTIFREEZE to your FRESH WATER
TANK (stay tuned for more info on the FRESH WATER TANK)
1.) Locate your water filter on the cold water line to kitchen sink faucet (if no filter under sink, then
skip to step #2). Remove and discard the water purifier
filter cartridge
• Raise the valve handle and turn the colored ring fully
clockwise.
• Twist the filter cartridge counterclockwise about a
quarter turn and pull down and out of the filter head.
• Place a container beneath the filter head and lower the
valve handle to drain any water remaining the filter lines.
Install the antifreeze diverter plug.
• Raise the valve handle and colored ring fully clockwise.
• Hold the diverter by the support bar and guide it up into
the filter head with bar end approximately centered in colored ring cutout.
• Push diverter up into the filter holder as far as possible and turn it clockwise approximately a
quarter-turn.
• Then turn colored ring fully counterclockwise. The diverter should be locked in position between the
head and colored ring.
• Lower valve handle to lock colored ring in place.
NOTE: Before using again the following spring:
• Flush out the pink anti freeze from all water lines WITH
THE DIVERTER IN PLACE.
• After the system has been thoroughly flushed, remove the
diverter and store for future use
• Install a new water filter cartridge (NEXT SPRING).

2.) Get yourself three to four gallons of PINK NON-TOXIC

RV ANTIFREEZE. DO NOT USE automotive ANTI FREEZE
in RV potable water systems. IT IS POISON!!!
3.) Locate the manufacturer installed siphon hose. This hose is usually located around your water
pump. If you have an older rig and do not have one, you can install a water pump converter kit, or
disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank).

4.) Remove cap from siphon intake hose in water pump compartment (or connect a piece of clear
tubing to the inlet side of the pump) and inset it into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV
antifreeze.

5.) Make sure the Water Heater Valve has been turned from Normal to the BY-PASS position, Turn
the water pump on and pressurize the system.

- Starting with the closest faucet, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears.
Replace the antifreeze containers as required as they empty.
- Repeat this process on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away.
- Don’t forget the outside shower, if equipped.
- (regardless if you have a washing machine or not) Go to the washing
machine water valves and using a hose into a bucket open until you see
pink anti freeze flowing into bucket.
- Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
- Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water
inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until
you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.

6.) Pour two cupfuls of antifreeze down each drain to replace any water left in the TRAPS.

7.) Pour 1/2 to 1 Gallon in the toilet and flush into the BLACK WATER
holding tank.

8.) If your water heater has an electric heating element make sure it is
turned off. This will protect the HOT WATER HEATER if the unit is
plugged in while being stored.

9.) Make sure all the faucets are closed.

*FRESH WATER WINTERIZING and what to do in the Spring.

Even though you have drained your Fresh Water Tank, there is still some water in there. Go to you
friendly local Liqueur Store. Buy one or two bottles of CHEAP (100% Proof or higher) VODKA. Using
a funnel and the outside Hose fill, pour the VODKA into the Fresh Water Holding Tank. Why use
VODKA? It won't freeze, it sanitizes the tank, and prevents molding (might make working of the
system next spring more fun too... never mind forget I said that).
To purge the Fresh Water Tank in the Spring, Hook up an hose and fill and DRAIN
the tank several times with fresh water. OPTIONAL - After you have flushed the Pink
ANTI-FREEZE out of all your lines, add some water to the fresh water tank and
vodka. Then using the water pump run some of the DILUTED vodka through the lines
to sanitize them. I would caution that Vodka is flammable and I would not suggest
running straight 100 proof vodka through an electrical pump.
Does this work? Yes - they do this in Canada and it gets a lot cooler there than here
in the lower 48. Did this to my Brave for the last few winters at -20 degree temps and
alcohol will not freeze. Make sure you get the 100% Proof or higher!
NOTE:
Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice-makers and washing machines.

The RV unit is NOW winterized.

*DE-WINTERIZING*
Here is what you need
These are the same items that were shown in PART 1

Items are as follows

 Air Compressor that can be regulated down to 35PSI. (optional)

 A homemade blow-out adapter consisting of an air chuck clamped to
a section of water hose that has a male hose connector. (optional)
 New under sink water filter cartridge (if installed)
 Clean potable water hose
 In-line water filter for end of hose
 Water Pressure Regulator Rated 45psi
 Brass 90 degree water fitting (optional - protects hose from stress)

Let's Begin

1.) Make sure the ball valve for the Water Heater is still in the By-Pass position.

2.) Make sure the water Heater breakers are off (there should have been no water in the water
heater (or antifreeze)!!
3.) Hopefully you remembered to remove the water filter under kitchen sink (if you have one there)
and installed the by-pass plug last fall. IF NOT, DO IT NOW!

NOTE - Steps 4 through 8 are optional. You do not have to use pressurized air. I feel it is more
thorough and efficient to do so as it also purges stale air out of the lines that could be trapped using
just water pressure alone.

4.) CAUTION - Make sure your compressor is set to no more than 35psi or you will blow every water
fitting out of your rig. Now attach your blow-out adapter to the CITY WATER connection.

5.) Hook up the compressor after verifying it is REGULATED to not more than 35psi. Turn the
compressor ON and enjoy the wonderful sounds of air pressurizing the water lines.

6.) Starting with the fixtures furthest away from the CITY WATER connection (...and listed here not
necessarily in that order.)Turn hot/cold valves on each sink, shower, and toilet fixture and let the pink
Anti freeze blow completely out.

7.) If equipped find the Washing Machine hot and cold taps and verify these lines are free of the Pink
Antifreeze (Note: a section of hose and a water bucket are used to purge these lines).

8.) Blow out the hot and cold outside shower system. By now all water hot and cold lines should be
blowing air and free of the Pink AntiFreeze.

9.) Now hook up your hose to the CITY WATER connection and flush all lines with clean fresh water

10.) Verify all lines are flowing fresh water. This includes all sinks, showers, toilet flush, washing
machine fixtures, and our side shower.

11.) fill and drain the fresh water tank until the water looks and smells fresh. *Warning* - you may
have to sanitize your water system at this point which is the subject of a different tip.

12.) Place the ball valve for the Water Heater from the
WATER HEATER BYPASS position to the NORMAL
position. l flip the lever the Pressure/Temperature
(PT) Relief Valve up and let the water heater fill up
until the BY-PASS valve flows water. Snap the
Pressure/Temperature (PT) Relief Valve closed
(NOTE: See picture for typical Water Heater details)

13.) OPTIONAL IF YOU HAVE A KITCHEN WATER

FILTER - Flush out the kitchen sink water system with
the water filter diverter in place.
• After the system has been thoroughly flushed,
remove the diverter and store for future use
• Install a new water filter cartridge

14.) If hot water is needed or you want to test the water heater you may apply power to the water
heater by flipping the appropriate circuit breakers (12VDC or 110VAC)

That is all you need to do... Happy Camping!