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UN T O U R DU M O N D E A WORLD TOUR
DES M A T I E R E S OF FRAGRANT RAW
A PARFUM MATERIALS

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?Creating a beautiful
perfume requires beautiful
ingredients?
Welcome to a fascinating exploration o f
the 30 most emblematic raw materials i n
perfumery.
The book was born o f the desire to celebrate
30 years o f recurring encounters between
the producers o f essential oils and synthetic
molecules and the perfumers who use their
creations. These are encounters that have
benefited from the framework provided
by the International Exhibition o f Raw
Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR), now
a key event for all who share a passion for
fragrances. Perfumers and their suppliers
often work together hand in hand, united
by a crucial bond: Creating a beautiful
p e r f u m e requires beautiful ingredients.
W hile essential oils bring magical vibra-
tions to formulas, synthetic molecules have
expanded the scope ofperfumers? creativity
in areas where naturals were lacking, such
as fruity and marine notes. There is constant
progress in growing and processing plants,
with new extraction methods and research
into innovative synthetic compounds
emerging, consistently driven by a respect
for quality, the environment and people.
The professions involved in perfumery,
EOITORIAL §
i n all their variety, are a treasure trove o f
expertise, as demonstrated by the inclusion
o f the skills related to perfume in Pays de
Grasse on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural
Heritage of Humanity list i n 2018. Passion
and patience are two o f the qualities that
l i n k perfumers and producers i n t h e i r
shared quest to create the finest fragrances
and to convey an abundance of emotions
to consumers.
As a perfume lover, you have certainly
already enjoyed these magnificent mate-
rials, old and new, wafted to you on a wave
o f scent worn by the people around you,
friends and family alike. They will always
conjure up the memories and feelings that
are inextricably intertwined with them.
Enjoy the journey as you plunge into the
world o f plants, scents and emotions.
Véronique Dupont, President o f
the French Society o f Perfumers (SFP)
 EDITORIAL LE CEDRE DE VIRGINIE
3 0 ans, VIRGINIA CEDARWOOD
FOREWORD
p a r / b y Véronique Dupont, 30 ingrédients p o r / b y Liuch Essence
P. 72
SFP
P.4 30 years,
LE C I S T E - L A B D A N U M
L E S R O U T E S DES E S S E N C E S
30 ingredients CISTUS/LABDANUM
P, 28
T H E S C E N T ROUTES por/byA l b e r t Vieille ~ Givaudan
p a r /by M a t h i l d e C o c o u a l P. 78
L A BAIE ROSE
P.10 PINK PEPPER
LE C I T R O N
p a r / b y Quimdis
GENESE DE LA SYNTHESE E n t r e t i e n a v e/ c I n t e r v i e w w i t h
LEMON
THE GENESIS OF SYNTHETICS p a r / b y Simone Gatto
Mark Buxton
p a r / by Eugénie Briot P. 84
P, 30
P.16
L?'ENCENS
LA B E R G A M O T E
SIMPPAR: 30 ANS FRANKINCENSE
BERGAMOT
DE R E N C O N T R E S p a r / b y Payan Bertrand
p a r / b y Capua
SIMPPAR: 3 0 YEARS Entretien avec / Interview w i t h
P. 36
OF M E E T I N G S Frédéric Badie
Entretien a v e c / LES BOIS AMBRES P. 90
Interview with
WOODY AMBERS
Sylvie J o u r d e t LA FLEUR D?ORANGER
p a r / b y Symrise
P, 22 ORANGE BLOSSOM
P. 42
p a r / b y A , F a k h r &y C o .

LE BOIS D?AGAR
P. 96

AGARWOOD
LEXIQUE LE GAIAC
p a r / b y Agroforex Company
GLOSSARY P. 48 GUAIAC WOOD
P. 230 p a r / by Nelixia
P. 1 0 2
L E B O U R G E O N DE C A S S I S
BIBLIOGRAPHIE BLACKCURRANT BUD
BIBLIOGRAPHY LE G E R A N I U M
p a r / b y LMR N a t u r a l s b y IFF
P. 234 ROSE G E R A N I U M
P. 54
p a r / b y Hashem Brothers
LES AUTEURS LA C A M O M I L L E R O M A I N E P. 108
THE A U T H O R S ROMAN CHAMOMILE
P. 235 LE G I N G E M B R E
p a r / b y A l b e r t Vieille - G i v a u d a n
P. 60 GINGER
p a r / b y Symrise

LA C A R D A M O M E E n t r e t i e n a v e /c I n t e r v i e w w i t h

CARDAMOM Alexandra Carlin

p a r / b y Givaudan P.114

P. 66
Historical background
Natural aromatic materials have been burned,
transported, traded, mixed, extracted and distilled
for thousands o f years in the never-ending quest for
their precious essence. But it wasn?t until the turn
o f the 20th century, when synthetic molecules first
appeared in the perfumer?s palette, that what we
know as ?modern? perfumery was born.
The following pages offer a glimpse o f the different
journeys taken by perfume plants, from antiquity to
the present day, and address the arrival o f synthetic
compounds in perfume formulas, a development
that revolutionized an entire industry.

Le p a t c h o u l i
Patchouli
PAR / BY V A N A R O M A
INDONESIE / I N D O N E S I A
Van A r o m a , s i t u é e en I n d o n é s i e , est le p r e m i e r
p r o d u c t e u r m o n d i a l des dérivés d u p a t c h o u l i ,
huile essentielle en téte. C e t t e jeune entreprise
allie p r o x i m i t é avec les p r o d u c t e u r s l o c a u x et
r e s p e c t des t e r r e s c u l t i v é e s .
« l i n?est pas f a c i l e p o u r le p a t c h o u l i d e r e v e n i r la
o t il est d é j a a l l é > , r é s u m e Aayush Tekriwal, d i r e c -
t e u r d e Van A r o m a , qui e n p r o d u i t 6 0 0 a 750 t o n n e s
( s u r les 1 2 0 0 & 1 4 0 0 t o n n e s a n n u e l l e s m o n d i a l e s ) ,
sous f o r m e d?huile e s s e n t i e l l e e t d e d é r i v é s . « E n
c e m o m e n t , p l u s d e 8 0 % des r é c o l t e s p r o v i e n n e n t
d e Sulawesi, l ' u n e des c i n g iles p r i n c i p a l e s de I?ar-
c h i p e l i n d o n é s i e n . D e m a i n ? Le p a t c h o u l i p o u r r a i t
&étre cultivé 4 B o r n é o , ou alors plus a l e s t , la o une
poignée d e f e r m i e r s o n t c o m m e n c é al e cultiver. »
En q u e l q u e s m o t s , le d i r i g e a n t esquisse les défis qu?il
d o i t relever chaque j o u r : rester « a g i l e » p o u r s?adap-
t e r a u n e c u l t u r e qui é p u i s e les sols, c o n s e r v e r un
c o n t a c t p e r m a n e n t avec d e s p r o d u c t e u r s situés a
des c e n t a i n e s d e k i l o m é t r e s d e son b u r e a u , le t o u t
e n d é v e l o p p a n t des n o r m e s é t h i q u e s e t durables.
« V a n A r o m a , c?est u n e a f f a i r e de f a m i l l e . Elle a é t é
l a n c é e en 2 0 0 6 p a r m o n p é r e e t ses p a r t e n a i r e s ,
dans le b u t qu?elle d e v i e n n e l e f o u r n i s s e u r d?huiles
e s s e n t i e l l e s d?origine i n d i e n n e l e p l u s f i a b l e e t
le plus durable. Auparavant, m o n p é r e revendait
des é p i c e s et des h e r b e s en t a n t q u e grossiste, et
Van A r o m a est n a t u r e l l e m e n t v e n u e a j o u t e r de la
valeur a c e t t e a c t i v i t é », e x p l i q u e Aayush. En p a r a l -
fale d e la t r a n s f o r m a t i o n d u p a t c h o u l i , Van A r o m a
p r o d u i t d?autres huiles essentielles ( c a n a n g a , noix
d e m u s c a d e , c l o u de g i r o f l e , c i t r o n n e l l e , g i n g e m -
163
b r e , vétiver) e t des extraits (café, c a c a o , g i n g e m b r e ,
p o i v r e n o i r o u e n c o r e c u b é b e ) . En p r o p o s a n t c e s
matiéres p r e m i é r e s aux s e c t e u r s d e ? a r o m a t h é r a p i e ,
de la p a r f u m e r i e e t de I?alimentaire, la s o c i é t é a su
s?imposer e n u n e quinzaine d?années s e u l e m e n t . Elle
c o m p t e 160 e m p l o y é s p e r m a n e n t s , r é p a r t i s s u r six
sites: d e u x a Sumatra, trois & Sulawesi, l e siége é t a n t
situé dans la v i l l e de Bogor, p r é s d e J a k a r t a , a Java.
U n e h u i l e p a r m i les p l u s c l a i r e s d u m a r c h é
« M e s chemises s e n t e n t m e i l l e u r avant d?étre lavées,
t a n t elles s o n t i m p r é g n é e s de I?odeur d u p a t c h o u l i
q u a n d je r e n t r e a la m a i s o n » , s o u r i t l e d i r i g e a n t , q u i
avoue p r é f é r e r les séances d?évaluation, a u x q u e l l e s
il p a r t i c i p e v o l o n t i e r s , a la l e c t u r e de ses e - m a i l s e t
a la gestion d e la p a r t i e c o m m e r c i a l e . Van A r o m a
est c a p a b l e d e livrer plusieurs q u a l i t é s d e p a t c h o u l i
standardisées en a s s e m b l a n t des huiles e s s e n t i e l l e s
de différentes zones de p r o d u c t i o n -l a d i s t i l l a t i o n
é t a n t le p l u s s o u v e n t f a i t e d i r e c t e m e n t d a n s l e s
f e r m e s p a r les p r o d u c t e u r s . Au c h a p i t r e des i n n o -
v a t i o n s t e c h n i q u e s , Van A r o m a a mis au p o i n t u n e
huile essentielle de patchouli p a r m i les plus claires du
m a r c h é , sans d é n a t u r e r ses p r o p r i é t é s o l f a c t i v e s , au
m o y e n d?une d i s t i l l a t i o n m o l é c u l a i r e u n i q u e classée
« s e c r e t i n t e r n e > . Elle est e n o u t r e l?une des s e u l e s
e n t r e p r i s e s 4 p r o d u i r e du c r i s t a l d e p a t c h o u l o l , ta
m o l é c u l e r e s p o n s a b l e des n o t e s c a r a c t é r i s t i q u e s
boisées et c a m p h r é e s d e l?ingrédient.
Entraide e t pratiques vertueuses sur YouTube
Les f e u i l l e s de p a t c h o u l i s o n t r é c o l t é e s p a r des
p r o d u c t e u r s fidélisés g r a c e 4 d e s c o n t r a t s a l o n g
t e r m e . Plus des trois q u a r t s d?entre e u x s o n t situés
164 DE L A P L A N T E A L ? E S S E N C E

F I C H E D ? I D E N T I T E IDENTITY SHEET

NOM LATIN LATIN NAME ETYMOLOGIE C T .

Pogostemon cablin Du tamoul p a c c a l ( « v e r t » ) et /lal
(«feuille >»), peut-étre par le biais -
NOM COMMUN COMMON NAME
de l'anglais patch-leaf. Le t e r m e latin
Patchouli cablin viendrait de cablam, n o m
Patchouli de la plante aux Philippines.
F r o m the Tamil paccai (?green?) and
FAMILLE FAMILY
ilai (?leaf?), possibly via the English
Lamiacées
?patch-leaf.? The Latin term cablin
Lamiaceae
is said to come from cablam, the name
o f the plant i n the Philippines.
RECOLTE
HARVEST
? ? ? S i ? ? ?
Originaire des Philippines, Pogostemon
c a b l i n aime la c h a l e u r et I?humidité PRINCIPAUX COMPOSANTS
PRINCIPAL COMPOUNDS
des t r o p i q u e s a s i a t i q u e s . Entamée
en Malaisie au XIX° siécle, sa c u l t u r e ,
Patchoulol Norpatchouténol
qui a t e n d a n c e & é p u i s e r les sols, se
Patchoulol Norpatchoulenol
déplace au fil des d é c e n n i e s sur I?ar-
EXTRACTION chipel indonésien. L?Europe découvre Nortetracyclo- Alpha-
A c e t t e é p o q u e son sillage g r a c e a u x
Hydrodistillation patchoulol patchouléne
Hydrodistillation chales en cachemire importés d?Inde, Nortetracyclo- Alpha-
e n t r e lesquels on glisse des f e u i l l e s patchoulol patchoulene
d e p a t c h o u l i , r é p u t é e s antimites. Les

8-12 h étoffes p a r f u m é e s ayant p l u s d e s u c c é s

D u r é e d e la d i s t i l l a t i o n
Distillation time
R E N D E M E N T YIELD
feuilles seches essence
d r y leaves essential oil
ODEUR DE L?HUILE ESSENTIELLE
ESSENTIAL OIL NOTES
Boisée, terreuse, fumée, liquoreuse,
avec des facettes de betterave,
d e p o m m e , de moisi ou de cave, elle
p e u t aussi bien évoquer le chocolat,
le cuir, la m e n t h e ou la réglisse.
Woody, earthy, smoky and liqueur-like
with beetroot, apple, m i l d e w and cellar
facets, i t can also evoke chocolate,
leather, m i n t and licorice.
q u e les autres, l?ingrédient intégre la
palette des parfumeurs.
Native to the Philippines, Pogostemon
cablin is f o n d o f the heat a n d h u m i d i t y
o f the Asian tropics. Patchouli c u l t i v a -
tion, w h i c h tends to deplete soil, began
i n Malaysia in the 19th century, gradually
m o v i n g to the Indonesian archipelago
over the decades. This was also when
Europe discovered its unusual fragrance,
thanks to the cashmere shawls imported
f r o m India: Patchouli leaves were placed
between the shawls to protect t h e m from
moths. Since the scented fabrics were far
more popular than the others, the ingredi-
ent became part o f the perfumer?s palette.
2-3
ans / y e a r s
Durée moyenne d?exploitation
d?un plant de patchouli
Average length o f time a patchouli
plant is cultivated
Au XIX° siacle, les demi-mondaines
adorent cette odeur tapageuse
qui colle aux vétements et
qui indique aux femmes légitimes
dans quels bras leur maria passé
la soirée. Le patchouli acquiert
ainsi la réputation d?un «parfum
de c o c o t t e » , avant de devenir
celui des hippies al a fin des
années 1960, son sillage masquant
bien celui de fa marijuana.
In the 19th century, demimondaines
loved the fragrance that clung to
their clothes, an ostentatious smell
that told wives exactly whose arms
their husbands had spent the night
in. Patchouli was thus seen as a cheap
perfume worn by loose womenbefore
being appropriated by hippies"
the late 1960s, its fragrance masking
the smell o f marijuana.
sur I'lle de Sulawesi, les autres é t a n t répartis entre
Sumatra e t Java. Le prix d?achat moyen au kilo de
I"huile essentielle varie entre 50 et 55 dollars. « E n t a n t
que leader mondial d e la p r o d u c t i o n e t de Vexporta-
tion d?huile essentielle de patchouli, nous faisons de
notre mieux p o u r maintenir la disponibilité des stocks
e t stabiliser les prix. Nous ne sommes pas que des
acheteurs. Notre travail consiste, en amont, arésoudre
les p r o b l é m e s des p r o d u c t e u r s . La p l u p a r t d?entre
eux p r a t i q u e n t la polyculture, le patchouli excédant
rarement un hectare. Il faut les encourager, les a c c o m -
pagner.>» La plante, qui d e m a n d e de ?attention, se
révéle en o u t r e é t r e g o u r m a n d e en n u t r i m e n t s : en
deux a trois ans d e culture d u patchouli, fa terre est
anémiée. II s?agit d o n c de soutenir les fermiers p o u r
é v i t e r qu?ils ne se c o n v e r t i s s e n t t o t a l e m e n t ou en
alternance a une p r o d u c t i o n plus pérenne, c o m m e la
banane, le mais, le gingembre, le curcuma etla c i t r o n -
nelle. Dans c e t t e o p t i q u e de d u r a b i l i t é « g a g n a n t -
Sagnant>, Van Aromaa lancé en juin 2 0 2 0 le groupe
Facebook Nilampedia (nilam signifiant <« p a t c h o u l i »
en i n d o n é s i e n ) . En p a r t e n a r i a t avec Symrise, ce
Carrefour d?échanges rassemble aujourd'hui plus de
2 0 0 0 m e m b r e s , presque tous fermiers. Accessible
gratuitement, il p r o p o s e un fil de discussion sur les
pratiques agricoles vertueuses. Recettes de f e r t i l i -
Sants biodynamiques, soin des semis, prévention des
maladies de la plante... Une chaine YouTube spécifique
reprend l'ensemble des tutoriels vidéo réalisés « p a r
les cultivateurs pour les cultivateurs >, dans lesquels
chaque geste est facile & m e t t r e en place et s?avere
financiérement peu coditeux. Au-dela de la pédagogie,
il s?agit de préserver l'avenir du patchouli en r e s p e c -
tant le sol et I'écosystéme.
R e s p e c t e r la t e r r e e n r e t o u r
Parmi les différentes initiatives, la gestion des eaux
usées est un c r i t é r e e n v i r o n n e m e n t a l clé p o u r u n e
entreprise c o m m e Van Aroma. C e l l e s - c i sont p u r i -
fiées par un b i o r é a c t e u r a bactéries aérobies et a n a é -
robies, par un t r a i t e m e n t a l?ozone, puis par différents
filtres. O u t r e les relevés d?analyse q u o t i d i e n s , les
l a n c e u r s d?alerte, e n cas d e s o u c i , s o n t des P o i s s o n s
nageant dans des bassins remplis de c e t t e eau filtrée.
Pour alléger son e m p r e i n t e c a r b o n e , la s o c i é t é a
mis en place plusieurs pratiques: elle s?appuie sur
des échangeurs de c h a l e u r e t u n e f a i b l e c o n s o m m a -
tion en carburant, a recours a un p r o c é d é labellisé
d?extraction au CO, supercritique pour les é p i c e s et
utilise c o m m e solvant d e I?éthanol d e q u a l i t é a l i m e n -
taire. « Cette t e r r e volcanique t r é s fertile, bénie, nous
donne beaucoup. C?est la m o i n d r e des choses q u e
d e lui t é m o i g n e r n o t r e r e s p e c t e t d e lui d o n n e r e n
r e t o u r » , c o n c l u t Aayush Tekriwal.
 166 DE L A P L A AL ? N
E S STE NEC E

EN produce patchoulol, the molecule Tesponsible for the

V a n A r o m a , based i n I n d o n e s i a , is the world?s ingredient?s distinctive woody, camphoraceous notes
leading producer of patchouli derivatives,
p r i m a r i l y essential oil. T h e y o u n g c o m p a n y has M u t u a l aid a n d g o o d practices o n YouTube
b u i l t aclose relationship w i t h local producers a n d The patchouli leaves are harvested by growers who
is f u l l y c o m m i t t e d to respecting t h e l a n d w h e r e have been given long-term contracts. More than
its p r o d u c t s are g r o w n . three-quarters o f them are located on the islando f
?It is not easy for patchouli to go back to where it used Sulawesi, with the rest divided between Sumatra and
to be,? says Aayush Tekriwal, director o f Van Aroma, Java. The average purchase price per kilo o ef ssential
which produces 6 0 0 to 750 metric tons of patchouli (of oil varies between $50 and $55. ?We don?t buy lower or
the 1,200 to 1,400 metric tons produced per year world- higher, to avoid any devaluation or price hikes. As the
wide) in the form of an essential oil and derivatives. ?At leading producer and exporter o f patchouli oil, we do
the moment, more than 80% of the harvest comes from our best to maintain stability in availability and pric-
Sulawesi, one o f the five main islands in the Indonesian ing. Because we are not just buyers. Our work consists,
archipelago. Tomorrow? Patchouli may potentially be upstream, in solving the farmers? problems.? Most of
cultivated in Borneo, or to the east, where a handful o f them practice mixed farming, with patchoulir a r e l y
farmers have started growing it.? He briefly outlines exceeding 1 hectare. They need to be encouraged and
the challenges he faces every day: staying flexible and supported. The plant requires plenty o f attention and
adapting to a crop that exhausts the soil, maintaining is nutrient-hungry: In two to three years o fc ultivating
permanent contact with producers located hundreds patchouli, the soil is depleted. The farmers therefore
of kilometers away from his office, all while developing need support so they don?t switch between crops or
ethical and sustainable standards. convert completely to a more long-lasting crop, such
?van Aroma is a f a m i l y business. It was started in as banana, corn, ginger, turmeric and lemongrass.
2 0 0 6 by m y father and his partners in a quest to W i t h this win-win approach to durability in mind,
become the trusted and most sustainable source of Van Aroma launched the Facebook group Nilampedia
indonesian origin essential oils. Prior to Van Aroma, (nilam means ?patchouli? in Indonesian) in June 2020,
m y father traded spices and herbs globally, and Van Created in partnership with Symrise, the platform for
Aroma made for a natural course o f value addition sharing information and ideas now has more than
in his line o f business,? Aayush Tekriwal explains. In 2,000 members, almost all o f whom are farmers. I t
addition to processing patchouli, Van Aroma produces is free and offers a discussion thread on good agricul-
other essential oils (citronella, cananga, nutmeg, clove, tural practices, with recipes for biodynamic fertilizers,
lemongrass, ginger and vetiver), as well as extracts advice on seedling care and the prevention of plant
(coffee, cocoa, ginger, black pepper and cubeb). By diseases, and more. A dedicated YouTube channel
supplying these raw materials to the aromather- features all the video tutorials ?made by farmers for
apy, perfumery and food sectors, the company has farmers,? with suggestions that are easy to implement
succeeded in making its mark i n just 15 years. Van and low-cost. Beyond the educational aspect, the aim
Aroma has 160 permanent employees in six locations: is to preserve the future of patchouli by respecting the
two in Sumatra, three in Sulawesi and the headquar- soil and the ecosystem.
ters in Bogor, near Jakarta, in Java.
G i v i n g b a c k to the l a n d by respecting i t
One o f t h e l i g h t e s t oils o n the m a r k e t Among a range o f different factors, wastewater
?My shirts smell better before they?re washed because management is a key environmental criterion for
they?re drenched in the smell of patchouli by the time I a company like Van Aroma. Wastewater is purified
get home,? smiles Aayush Tekriwal, who confesses that with a combination of bioreactors with aerobic and
he prefers the testing sessions he loves to take part in anaerobic bacteria processes, ozone processes, and
to reading his emails and attending to the commercial then through carbon filters. In addition to daily anal-
aspects of business. Van Aroma can deliver several yses, the fish swimming in pools filled with the filtered
standardized grades o f patchouli by assembling essen- water raise the alarm in the event of a problem. The
tial oils from different production areas, with produc- company has implemented several practices to reduce
ers usually distilling directly at the farms. In terms o f its carbon footprint, using heat exchangers and low
technical innovations, Van Aroma has developed one fuel consumption, clean label supercritical CO, extrac-
o f the lightest patchouli essential oils on the market, tion for spices and food-grade ethanol as a solvent.
without altering its olfactory properties, by means o f ?This highly fertile, blessed, volcanic land gives us a
a unique type o f molecular distillation, classified as a lot. It?s only fair that we show it respect and give back,?
company secret. It is also one of the only companies to concludes Aayush Tekriwal.

Le p a t c h o u l i en 3 parfums
Patchouli in 3 fragrances
PATCHOULI
warque | Reminiscence
Parfumeur | Maurice Sozio
Sortie 1970
Ce grand classique m e t en valeur
toutes les facettes du patchouli,
jusque dans ses dimensions
terreuses, voire moisies. En
ouverture, un a c c o r d liquoreux
introduit un santal presque a m e r
et un cédre a la fois sec et fumé.
Puis le patchouli se révéle avec
des accents d?humus, d e foin,
de vétiver et méme de sueur.
Enfin, le labdanum et le baume
de Told apportent leur caractére
résineux médicinal, tandis q u e la
vanille et la feve tonka c o n f é r e n t
au fond du parfum une légére
touche gustative.
This great classic highlights
all the facets o f patchouli, d o w n
to its earthy, moldy dimensions.
In the opening, a liquor-like
accord introduces an almost bitter
sandalwood and a touch o f cedar,
at once dry and smoky. T h e n the
Patchouli is revealed w i t h accents
of humus, hay, vetiver and even
Sweat. Finally, labdanum and T o l
balsam establish their resinous,
v a character, while vanilla
a bean confer a slightly
Bustatory touch to the base accord.
v
ANGEL
Marque [Mugler
Parfumeur| OlivierCresp .
Sortie 1992
Lorsqu?il imagina son étoile
bleue, Thierry Mugler voulait
une fragrance qui lui rappelle fes
fétes foraines de son enfance.
Considéré comme le parfum
inaugural de la famille des gour-
mands, Angel souligne ainsi, avec
son overdose d?éthyl-maltol
- molécule au parfum de caramel,
de praline et de pain grillé - , la
facette chocolatée du patchouli.
Ce dernier, noir et terreux,
provoque une f o r m e de choc
olfactif, signant le sillage puissant
et étrange qui fit le succés
du parfum.
When he first dreamed up what
w o u l d become his famous ?blue
star,? Thierry Mugler wanted
a fragrance that would remind
h i m o f the fairs o f his childhood.
W i t h its overdose o f ethyl maltol
- a molecule w i t h the scent o f
caramel, praline and toast - Angel
is considered to be the fragrance
that started the gourmand family,
emphasizing the chocolatey
facet o f patchouli. The latter,
black and earthy, creates a f o r m
o f olfactory clash, signing the
powerful and strange sillage that
resulted in the perfume?s success.
PATCHOULI 167
|
TEMPO
Marque Diptyque -
Parfumeur Olivier Pescheux
Sortie 2018
Lancé pour c é l é b r e r les 5 0 ans
du p r e m i e r p a r f u m d e l a m a i s o n ,
T e m p o rend h o m m a g e a la
matiére c u l t e des a n n é e s 1960.
Le p a t c h o u l i se r e t r o u v e a i n s i au
c e n t r e d e la c o m p o s i t i o n , d é v o i -
l a n t t o u r & t o u r les f a c e t t e s d e s a
personnalité multiple: baie rose,
sauge s c i a r é e e t m a t é s o u l i g n e n t
son c a r a c t é r e a r o m a t i q u e et
6picé, tandis q u e b a u m e s et
feuille d e v i o l e t t e le r e n d e n t p l u s
l a n g o u r e u x . It p r e n d a l o r s d e s
airs d e c h y p r e m o u s s u , c l a s s i q u e
e t f e u t r é , au s i l l a g e s e c , b o i s é
et vibrant.
Created to celebrate the s o t h
anniversary o f the brand?s first
fragrance, Tempo pays homage
to the iconic material o f the
1960s. Patchouli is thus f o u n d
at the heart o f the composition,
successively revealing the various
facets o f its m u l t i p l e personalities:
Pink pepper, clary sage a n d yerba
maté underline its aromatic and
spicy character, while balsams
and violet leaf make it more
languid. It then takes on the
appearance o f a mossy, classic
and felted chypre, w i t h a dry,
woody and vibrant sillage.
The p e r f u m e r y o f t o m o r r o w
Since the perfume industry must prepare for
the future, it places great emphasis on research
and development, inventing techniques and
frameworks that it can use to produce fragrances
aligned with the times. These four innovative
approaches embody the future of perfumery,
each in their own way.
234

BIBLIOGRAPHIE
BIBLIOGRAPHY

LIVRES BOOKS SITES WEBSITES

Atlas de b o t a n i q u e Auparfum.com
parfumée, Osmotheque.fr
J e a n - C l a u d e Ellena, Parfumeurs-createurs.org
Arthaud, 2020 Perfumer-creators.com
Scentree.co
Les Huiles essentielles,
vertus et applications, Afakhry.com
Xavier Fernandez, Albertvieille.com
Farid C h e m a t , Biolandes.com
Thi Kieu Tién Do, Bontoux.com
V u i b e r t , 2015 Capual880.com
Firmenich.com
Collection « Les Cahiers Givaudan.com
des naturels Nez+LMR » Hashembrothers.com
?The Naturals notebook Iff.com
Nez+LMR? Liuche.com
Nez é d i t i o n s Keva.co.in
Mane.com
Nez, Ia revue olfactive Nelixia.com
Nez, the olfactory magazine Payanbertrand.com
Nez éditions Quimdis.com
Quintis.com.au
Robertet.com
Simonegatto.com
Symrise.com
Takasago.com
Vanaroma.com

L E S A U T E U R S , M E M B R E S DU C O L L E C T I F N E Z
T H E A U T H O R S : M E M B E R S O F THE NEZ C O L L E C T I V E
B é a t r i c e Boisserie
Les b o i s a m b r é s
W o o d y ambers
La c a m o m i l l e r o m a i n e
Roman chamomile
La c a r d a m o m e C a r d a m o m
Le c i s t e - l a b d a n u m
Cistus/Labdanum
Le gingembre Ginger
Madagascar, une t e r r e
d?innovation pour Symrise
Madagascar, a land o f
innovation f o r Symrise
Sarah Bouasse
La b e r g a m o t e B e r g a m o t
Le c i t r o n L e m o n
La l a v a n d e L a v e n d e r
La m a n d a r i n e M a n d a r i n
Eugénie Briot
Genése de /a synthése
The genesis o f synthetics
Mathilde Cocoual
Les r o u t e s des e s s e n c e s
T h e scent r o u t e s
235
O l i v i e r R. P. D a v i d Anne-Sophie Hojlo
Fiches d?identité des Simppar: 30 ans de
bois ambrés, lactones, rencontres
muscs et notes m u g u e t SIMPPAR: 3 0 years
I d e n t i t y sheets f o r w o o d y o f meetings
ambers, lactones, musks Le bourgeon de cassis
and lily o f t h e valley notes Blackcurrant bud
Le bois d?agar Agarwood
Aurélie Dematons La fleur d?oranger
La baie rose Pink pepper Orange blossom
Vencens Frankincense Le géranium Rose geranium
Le g a i a c G u a i a c w o o d Le jasmin grandiflorum
L i r i s Iris Jasmine grandifiorum
La r o s e d e D a m a s Les lactones Lactones
D a m a s k rose Les muscs Musks
Uextraction naturelle Les n o t e s m u g u e t
d e la p r o c h a i n e d é c e n n i e Lily o f the valley notes
par Firmenich La tubéreuse Tuberose
Natural extraction over the La vanille Vanilla
next decade by Firmenich Le v é t i v e r V e t i v e r
L?ylang-ylang Y l a n g - y l a n g
Jeanne Doré Les E - P u r e J u n g l e
Textes p a r f u m s Essence: Mane réinvente
T e x t s on f r a g r a n c e s Yenfleurage
Mane's reinvention o f
enfleurage with its E-Pure
Jungle Essence extracts
Le FiveCarbon Path
par Givaudan
FiveCarbon Path
by Givaudan
Clara M u l l e r
Textes p a r f u m s
Texts o n fragrances
G u i l l a u m e Tesson
Le cédre de Virginie
Virginia cedarwood
Le patchoull Patchouli
Le poivre noir Black pepper
Le santal Sandalwood
 237

REMERCIEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Nous remercions Hashem Brothers Quintis

les personnes Nazly Foda, A n n a b e l Davy, V a n e s s a

Ligovich
suivantes qui o n t Moustafa Hashem

r e n d u p o s s i b l e la Keva Robertet
réalisation de ce livre: Amit Gulati, Gopalkrishnan Stéphanie Groult,
Krishnan, Carlos Llorca, Alina Horhul, Julien M a u b e r t ,
We w o u l d like to
Avani Mainkar, Luc Malfait, Joséphine Roux
t h a n k the f o l l o w i n g L a u r e Shalgian, V i n o d
individuals w h o made Tandon, Kedar Vaze Simone Gatto

this book possible: Rovena Raymo,

Lluch Essence Vilfredo Raymo
C é c i l e F a b r e , Eva L i u c h ,
Agroforex Company Sofia L l u c h , J o r g e M i r a l l e s , Symrise
A d r i a n o Chagnaud, G a b r i e l Puig Alain B o u r d o n , C l é m e n t
Francis Chagnaud Cabrol, Alexandra Carlin,
LMR N a t u r a l s by I F F Sandrine Caubel, Catherine
A l b e r t V i e i l l e - Givauden C é l i n e Barel, Yves Cassar, Dolisi, A l e x a n d r e tilan,
Aurélie Autric, Christophe J u d i t h Gross, Sophie Palatan, Benoit Join, Daniela Knoop,
Delshsye, Dominique B e r t r a n d d e Préville, Ricardo Omorl,
ttalieno, Maria Lavao, Bernard Toulemonde Fanny Rakotoarivelo
Lés Septier
Mane Takasago
Blolandes Olivier Bachelet, J e n n i f e r Sylvain E y r a u d ,
C o m i t e Stecul-Carette B e h a r , R o x a n e Bessou, Auréllen Guichard,
Cyril Gallardo, Rolph Sébastien H e n r l e t ,
Borntouz Gasparlian, F a n n y L a m b e r t , HongJoo Lee
R é m y Bontous, Laure Lapeyronnie, Serge
Bénédicte Chenuet, M a j o u l l i e r , J u l i e Massé, Van A r o m a
Nicolas Herve Eléa N o y a n t , C y r i l l R o l l a n d , Aayush Tekriwal,
C l é m e n t Toussaint, J o n a t h a n Sandeep Tekriwal
Capua Valentin, Mathilde Voisin
G i a n f r a n c oC a p u a ,
RoccoCapua Mark Buxton Perfumes J u l l e t t e Allaire
Mark Buxton Patrice Reviliard
A . F a k h& rC o y.
H u s s e i n Fakhry, Nelixia
A m a n y Ragab Etisa A r a g o n , Ce livre est dédié
Jean-Marie Maizener 4 Philippe Anglade,
Firmenich fidele c o m p a g n o n dans
Xavier Brochet, Virginie Payan S e r t r a n d Yorganisation du Simppar.
Gervason, R o b e r t Fridovich, F r é d é r i c Badie, A n n e - S o p h l i e This book is dedicated
Sophie Lavoine, Claire Beyts, M a r i e - E u g é n i e B o u g e , to Philippe Anglade,
Savoure Alexia Glolivo, V i n c e n t Proal a loyal companion in the
organization o f SIMPPAR.
Ghvaudan Quimdis
Pierre A m o u x , Jeremy Thierry Ductos,
C o m p t o n , Fabien D u r a n d , Emmanuel Linares
Valérie d e la P e s c h a r d i é r e
 258
CREDITS PHOTOS
P H O T O CREDITS
p. 2 5 : © Simppar
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/ p. 129, 130: © Courtesy of
A l a m y b a n q u e d?images
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s y n t h é s»e e s t sdeptée d?una r t i c l e
paru e n 2018 dans Nez, fo revug
p. 2 2 0 , 2 2 2 : © Mane o l f a c t i v e #5, Le corps & Fesprit,
The t e x t ?The genesis o f
synthetics? is a d a p t e d from
p. 2 2 4 , 2 2 6 , 2 2 7 : a n a r t i c l e published in 2018 in
© Mat J a c o b / S y m r i s e Nez, the o l f a c t o r y magazine #5,
M i n d & body.
p. 2 2 8 : © Romain
Le t e x t e « L e s routes des
B a s s e n n/ e Symrise Paris e s s e n c e s » est paru en 2 0 2 0
dans Nez, /o revue olfactive #9,
A u t o u r d u monde.
The text ?The scent routes?
was previously published in 2020
i n Nez, the o l f a c t o r y magazine
# 9 , A r o u n d t h e world.
Les m e n t i o n s ® ou T M
n?apparalssent pas dans c e
livre. Pour a u t a n t , les produits
des sociétés b é n é f i c i a n t d e ces
a p p e l l a t i o n s r e s t e n t protégés
par la loi.
Registered names, trademarks,
etc. u s e d in this book, even
w h e n n o t specifically m a r k e d or
i n d i c a t e d as such, are not t o b e
c o n s i d e r e d u n p r o t e c t e d by law.
De la p l a n t e
a l?essence
From plant to essence

U n t o u r d u m o n d e des m a t i é r e s & p e r f u r n A w o r l d t o u r o f f r a g r a n t r a w materials

De |e Sictle au Laos, d u Paraguay &
Madagascar, partez p o u r un voyage o l f a c t i f
inédit & la r e n c o n t r e des plantes & parfum,
des p r o d u c t e u r s qui ceuvrent a la fabrication
e s s e n c e s , d?extraits et de molécules,
m a i s a u s s i d e s p a r f u m e u r s q u i les u t i l i s e n t
e t des compositions e m b l é m a t i q u e s dans
f e s q u e l i e s v o u s p o u v e z les r e t r o u v e r .
Vanilte, j a s m i n , b e r g a m o t e , m u s c s . . . a t r a v e r s
t r e n t e c h a p i t r e s , c e t o u v r a g e e x p l o r e fa
d i v e r s i t é e t la r i c h e s s e d e s i n g r é d i e n t s d e
p a r f u m e r i e : leur origine, leur culture, leur
t r a n s f o r m a t i o n , f e u r usage, ainsi q u e les
innovations qui permettent de répondre
aux enjeux environnementaux, économiques
e t s o c i é t a u x d?aujourd?hul.
A o c c a s i o n d e son t r e n t i a m e a n n i v e r s a i r e ,
te S a i o n i n t e r n a t i o n a l des m a t i é r e s p r e m i é r e s
p o u r la p a r f u m e r i e ( S i m p p a r ) s?associe avec
Nez é d i t i o n s p o u r m e t t r e a I?honneur t o u s c e u x
et toutes celles qui p e r p é t u e n t par leur savoir-faire
une filiére t r o p souvent méconnue.
From Sicily to Laos, Paraguay to
Madagascar, this book takes you on an
incredible olfactory journey for a series of
fascinating encounters with perfume plants,
the producers who create fragrance essences,
extracts and molecules, the perfumers
w h o use them, and the iconic compositions
i n which you w i l l find them.
Vanilla, jasmine, bergamot, musks...
T h i r t y chapters explore the diversity and
richness o f perfumery ingredients: their
origins, cultivation, transformation and
usage, as well as the innovations devised
toaddress the environmental, economic
and social challenges of today.
In honor o f its 30th anniversary, the International
Exhibition o f Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR)
has teamed up with Nez éditions to pay tribute to
the people whose expertise sustains a sector that
is all to0 often overlooked.

SOUS LA DIRECTION DE ILLUSTRATIONS

~ cette nex Mathilde Cocoual UNOER THE DIRECTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS
AUTHORS IN THE O l i v i e r R. P. David Jeanne Doré Marta Signori
NEY COLLECTIVE Aurélie Dematons
Béatrice Boissearie Anne-Sophie Hojlo
Sarah Bouasse Clara Muller
Eugénie B r i o t G u i l l a u m e Tesson