Processing Technology of Plant

Material for Cosmetic Application

Erna Subroto, PhD
(9 August 2021)
 CONTENTS

1. PLANTS FOR COSMETIC APPLICATION

2. EXTRACTION TECHNOLOGY
 Cosmetics
“Cosmetics are substances or preparations intended to
used on external parts of the human body (epidermis,
hair, nails, lips, and external genital organs), or teeth and
mucous membranes mouth, especially for cleaning,
perfuming, changing appearance, and/or improve body
odor or protect or keep the body in good condition”

“Cosmetic Ingredients are ingredients or mixtures of

(PerKa BPOM no 23 year 2019) ingredients derived from natural and/or synthetic
which are components of Cosmetics”

List of Cosmetic Ingredients refers to: The European Commission database for
information on cosmetic substances and ingredients contained.
https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en
 Introduction

Cosmetic Ingredients According to ISO 16128 2: 2017

• Natural Ingredients: ingredients obtained from living

organisms such as plants, animals, microorganisms or mineral
origin either by physical process (grinding, drying, distillation
etc), fermentation, extraction without intentional chemical
modification.
• Natural origin: ingredient with greater than 50% by molecular
weight is natural origin, obtained through defined chemical and
or biological process with the intention of chemical modification.
• Synthetic/non natural: are substances with certain chemical
structures obtained from fossil fuel or ingredients having more
than 50% non natural.
 Indonesia is rich
with natural resources which can
be exploited for cosmetic ingredients
 Selection of Herbal Material for
Cosmetic (1)
• Ethnobotany (traditional usage)

• Scientific point of view

• Trends

10
 Selection of Herbal Material for
Cosmetic (2)
• Sustainable resource (not from endangered or threatened list)
• Sustainable supply (not from roots or barks especially for annual
plant, fair trade with farmers)
• Traceability
• Easy to cultivate or growing
• Safe for health
• Waste utilization (plus point)
 Natural Ingredients Used in Cosmetic
Vegetable oil/ butter/wax Essential oils Extracts
- Coconut oil - Rose - Aloe vera
- Candlenut oil - Ylang-ylang - Yam bean
- Neem oil - Kaffir lime - False daisy
- Cocoa butter - Patchouli - Mangosteen
- Shea butter - Citronella - Green coffee
- Illipe butter - Sandalwood - Green Tea
- Nutmeg butter - Vetiver - Sea grapes
- Rice bran wax - Mint - Sea lettuce
Natural colors Natural exfoliants
- Bixa (annato) - Apricot seed pericarp
- Turmeric (curcumins) - Corn cob
- Beetroot (betalins) - Loofah
- Butterfly pea (anthocyanins) - Rice grain
- Green vegetables (chlorophylls)
- Algae (ficoeritrin)
 Application of Natural Ingredients
in Cosmetics

Skin care Hair care Others

Dry skin treatment Dry hair treatment Fragrance
Antioxidant Dandruff Flavor
Sunscreen Hair growth Decorative
Lightening Anti grey hair
Soothing Cooling effect
Anti-inflammatory Fragrance
Astringent
Exfoliants
Fragrance
 Introduction
Plant Metabolites
Metabolites : compounds synthesized by plants for both essential functions and
specific function

Type of plant metabolites:

• Primary metabolites: essential for survival of plant organism as these are
directly involved in growth, development, reproduction of plant organism.
Example: carbohydrates, lipids, proteins, nucleic acids and hormones.
• Secondary metabolites: not essential for survival of plant organism
however it required for interaction of plant with environment. It function such as
defense against abiotic stress (e.g. UV-B exposure), pollinator attraction or
defense against herbivory or microbes. Example: alkaloids, phenolics and
terpenoids.
NATURAL INGREDIENTS PROCESSING
1. Sortation and Cleaning
2. Size reduction (if needed)
3. Drying (if needed)
4. Milling
5. Extraction
6. Purification
 Herbal material milling
Plant material
Leaves, flowers, herbs
Wood, bark, and roots
Fruit and seeds
Simplicia containing alkaloids fine powder (particle size 0.5 mm)
and saponins
Particle Size
coarsely chopped to almost smooth
(particle size 4 mm)
finely chopped to coarse powder
(particle size of 2.5 mm)
crushed or made of rough powder immediately before use
(particle size 2 mm)
 Introduction
Extraction

• Extract: Concentrated preparation of plant material obtained

from the withdrawal of the constituents needed from the plant
using suitable solvent

• Extraction: is the methods of separation of medicinally active

portions of plant from the inactive or inert component.
(mechanical extraction, solvent extraction, etc)
 Solvent Extraction
Solvent Extraction
• Extraction of active compound by using suitable solvent
• Based on solubility of solute (like dissolve like) from the in
the solvent.
• Diffusion of the solvent enters the matrix and dissolves
compounds that can dissolve from the cell. The rate
depends on the location of the compound in the cell and
the permeability of the cell wall to certain solvents
 Solvent Extraction
Compounds Polarity

Relative polarity index

Non-Polar Semi-Polar Polar

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1

Lipids, Waxes, Terpenoids Glycosides, Carbohydrates, Protein, Alkaloids

polyphenols

Besides solvent polarity, other factor such as temperature, pH, and salts
influence extraction capability
 Extraction Solvent Solvent Extraction

INDONESIA (PERMENKES RI NOMOR 007 TAHUN 2012 )

Etanol, water dan Etanol-Water mixtures ; Max concentration of ethanol in residue is 1%
Conventional Solvent Extraction
 Extraction methods for Extracts
Industrial Solvent Extraction
 Extraction methods for Essential oil
Steam Distillation
Extraction of
essential oils from
most of plant
materials

https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
newdirectionsaromatics.com
 Extraction methods for Essential oil
Water Distillation
Extraction of
essential oils
from delicate
flowers / plant
materials

https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
newdirectionsaromatics.com
 Extraction methods for Essential oil
Cold Press Extraction
Extraction of
essential oils for
citrus peels

Separator

Essential oil

2. The fruit is 3. Separation of oil

pressed, and the oil and juice from fine
and juice is particles by
squeezed out centrifugation
newdirectionsaromatics.com
 Extraction methods for Essential oil
Solvent Extraction
Extraction of
essential oils
from resinous
plant materials

https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
newdirectionsaromatics.com
 Extraction methods
Extraction methods for Lipids
Mechanical extraction

Extraction of oils/lipid
from plant materials
contain > 20% lipid

Extraction of oils/lipid
Solvent extraction
from plant materials
ethanol or 2-methyloxolane as extracting solvent contain < 20% lipid

Note: for lipid extraction Plant material contain no / limit water

 Novel Green Extraction
Technology
• Enzyme-assisted Extraction
• Ultrasonic-assisted Extraction
• Microwave-assisted Extraction
• Pressurized Solvent Extraction
• Supercritical CO2 Extraction
• Pulse Electric Field Extraction
 STANDARDIZED COMMERCIAL
NATURAL INGREDIENTS
Things needed to be addressed:
1. Species /variety has been
validation 7. Harvesting methods
2. Where it grow 8. Post harvesting methods
3. Cultivation method/How it grow 9. Storage conditions
4. Which part of plant 10. Extraction/processing methods
5. Harvesting time 11. Drug Extract Ratio (for extract)
6. Plant age
 Specifications of Herbal Material
• Definition: qualitative statement of botanical source, part of plant, and its
state (e.g. Whole, crushed, powdered, dried or fresh)
• Characteristic : appearance, color, odor, taste
• Identifications: specific profile to differentiate with other herbal material
• Test: Foreign matter, particle size, water content, extractable matter, ash
• Phytochemical characterization: constituent with known therapeutic activity
as well as constituent as active marker
• Impurities : heavy metals, residue of pesticide, microbial contaminants,
mycotoxins etc
 Specification of Natural Ingredients
• Definition qualitative statement of botanical source, part of plant, and its
state (liquid or powder)
• Characteristic : appearance, color, odor, taste
• Identifications : specific profile to differentiate with other natural ingredients
• Test: pH, relative density, refractive index, viscosity, solubility, particle size,
loss on drying (for powdered product).
• Phytochemical characterization: constituent with known therapeutic activity
as well as constituent as active marker
• Impurities : heavy metals, residue of pesticide, microbial contaminants,
mycotoxins etc
 Challenges in using natural
ingredient in cosmetic formulation

• Diffrent sensorial performance

• Reproducibility
• Microbiological contamination
• Shorter shelf life
• Price
• Availability