Vogue India - Jan Feb 2023

J A N
F E B
2023
₹200
Your Guide
to Solar
Awakening
Avanti Nagrath
Strike a Pose
This PDF was uploade To Teligram channel_ LBS Newspaper platform (https://t.me/LBSNEWSPAPER) @LBSNEWSPAPER
BEFORE IT’S IN FASHION, IT’S IN VOGUE!
PHOTO: BIKRAMJIT BOSE/VOGUE INDIA

VOGUE
DRESS, SUPRIYA LELE
82 ALL ABOUT AVANTI

The first Indian model to open the
Versace runway, Avanti Nagrath
makes her Vogue India cover debut.
Divya Bala meets the girl of the
moment blazing a trail through the
international fashion scene.
Photographed by Nick Sethi TOP, BRALETTE, SKIRT; ALL SUPRIYA LELE (S/S 2020)
Styled by Megha Kapoor
96 DAYDREAM BELIEVER
Diaphanous tiers, cascades of silk, subcontinent are ushering in a new
mirror-ball minis—when it comes to wave of beach style.
dusk-to-dawn dressing, let your Photographed by James Tolich
imagination be your guide. Styled by Megha Kapoor
Photographed by Renell Medrano
Styled by Stella Greenspan 114 WORK FORCE
The secrets of success this season?
104 HIGH TIDE Confidence, precision, flashes of
The summer state of mind? Bright brilliance—and a wardrobe to
silks, brighter jewels, and mono- back it up.
NICK SETHI
grammed luxury stamped across your Photographed by Craig McDean

swim kit. The sartorial icons of the Styled by Kate Phelan
vogue india, january-february 2023 3
VOGUE
8 EDITOR’S LETTER 38 NEW LIFE
Focused on cultivating the next generation of
9 CONTRIBUTORS eco-conscious craftsmen and designers,
Gucci’s ArtLab is the melting pot where
creativity meets technology, says Bryan Ho
STYLE
40 DREAM TEAM
10 HIGH VOLTAGE A heritage cantonment house in Bengaluru,
A concoction of electric neons will effectively restored by designer Vinita Chaitanya, is home
stylise your main-character energy to couturier Tarun Tahiliani’s new boutique.
By Komal Basith and Ritupriya Basu
12 HEAVY PETAL
Capture the first crop of spring in a campy 42 SKIN OF THE MOON
carry-all plucked straight off the runway Mysterious, romantic and historically
scandalous, jamdani is Injiri’s choice of canvas,
13 TOP OF THE WORLD finds Vinita Makhija
Bypass grounded soles for a few extra inches
with platform heels that take things to a whole 46 LOVE IN THE AIR
new level From a shagun thaal to remind them of home,
and garlands strung together with fresh
14 GOODWILL HUNTING flowers, Jagvir Matharoo and Martino
Hindu myths, Afghan folklore and everything Caramia’s intimate wedding in Copenhagen
in between—whether places near or far, there was all heart, writes Akanksha Kamath
resides a way to conjure good hope, intentions
and manifestations. This year, we’re all for
cleansing our orbits with an emblematic nazar
battu. From Bikaner’s amulets to the bold
midnight hues found in kohl-spiced eyes,
ruffles, lace and tulle—we’re looking at the
trinkets with the ultimate power to filter good
vibrations and safeguard destinies
20 MEET MADHULIKA
From the bucolic Indian northeast to the buzz
of New York, model, philanthropist (and
movie star in the making) Madhulika Sharma
is a whip-smart multi-hyphenate proving that
her beauty comes bolstered with brains, says
Divya Bala.
Photographed by Katherine Goguen
Styled by Rupangi Grover
30 DESK SELF FORWARD

Rukaiya Daud, the woman behind the New
Zealand-based luxury homeware destination
Fourth Street and the Sydney-based bedwear
label Sutram, gives Sadaf Shaikh a peek into
her corner of creativity
32 SPOT ON
Louis Vuitton’s newest collaboration with
Yayoi Kusama gives an artsy and hypnotic
twist to the classics. By Shriya Zamindar
36 GREATEST OF ALL TIME

As the James Bond franchise celebrates 60
years, Vogue India reflects on the Omega
watches that equipped the legendary spy and
his leading ladies on their secret missions.
GOURAB GANGULI
By Rishna Shah
‘SKIN OF THE MOON’, PAGE 42
4 vogue india, january-february 2023

WELLNESS
& BEAUTY
50 SUN WORSHIP
Life on earth evolved with sunlight. It
energises our body, syncs our biological rhythm
and keeps us strong. Yet we shy away from it.
Perhaps it’s time to face the sunshine again,
if only for 20 minutes every day, writes
Sneha Mankani.
Photographed by Anai Bharucha
58 A CLEAN BREAK
From head to toe, inside and out, everything’s
better with a touch of salt. By Vasudha Rai
60 OUT OF THE WOODS

Experience a passage into the healing spirit and
strength of sacred woods through fragrances,
notes and memories. By Meher Jadhwani
CULTURE
62 CRAFTING A LEGACY
The Chanakya School of Craft is making some
of the most coveted couture found anywhere in
the world. Samar Rajput walks the halls to
investigate the narrative of needle and cloth.
Photographed by Tenzing Dakpa
70 STEEPED IN MEMORY
In the hands of Ali Monis Naqvi, simple
photographs come alive with meaning and
intention, almost like a soothing antidote to
the fraught times we live in. By Sadaf Shaikh ‘STEEPED IN MEMORY’, PAGE 70
71 LOVE UNBOUND
Meena Kandasamy’s translation of Tiruvallu-
var’s treatise on desire is a work of eloquent HOROSCOPE
protest, finds Avantika Shankar
124 See what the month has in store for you
72 NURTURE THE FUTURE
Climate activist Archana Soreng speaks with 128 DIARY
Anmol Arora about the significance ofindige-
nous influence and local perspectives in climate 132 SHOPLIST
action
74 THE RIGHT TO REST RSVP

Through a project that captures women in
various states of fun and frolic, Surabhi Yadav 134 FORCES OF FASHION
makes a case for why female leisure lies at the A November evening saw the fashion
heart of feminist liberation. Five image-makers community dressed to the nines for the Indian
peruse their photographic oeuvres for Vogue edition of the internationally renowned event
India to present portraits of quiet pleasure
IN LIST
80 BREAKING THE MOULD
ALI MONIS NAQVI
The firmly reticent Konkona Sen Sharma 138 FORTUNE COOKIE

speaks to Avantika Shankar on working with Gucci mules with a splash of red—and
her mother, digging deeper into storylines and sparkling crystals—to summon good luck in
the future of the film industry the new year

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VOGUE Editor’s letter
A SHOW OF HANDS
Avanti Nagrath on the set of our cover shoot
A CLEAN SLATE
SURRENDER, FLOW, HEART-BASED logic, equanim- Bikaner, accessorising with Dali-esque eye-shaped motifs or
ity, sleep, nature, connection, purpose, play and, dare I say it, channelling your inner Wednesday Addams, cleansing one’s
even woo woo… I’m not one for specific resolutions, but there orbit as we look to the new year has never looked so chic.
was certainly an energy I was hoping to harness as I woke up Any meditation on the idea of renewal or resetting conjures
on 1 January. Stepping into 2023 with our first issue of the up the most elemental imagery: waking to the sun. In this
year, the message is clear: good vibes only. issue, we explore the rituals, reasons and routes to restoring
I love nothing more than a model moment; give me an one’s sattva (mental clarity and positivity) be it via the rhyth-
editorial face any day. South Asian models, from the upcoming mic flow of the surya namaskar, the ancient wisdom of brahma
to the well-established, have been key in connecting the sub- muhurta (waking before sunrise to greet the sun) or the simple
continent to the runways of Paris, campaigns, billboards and act of facing the sun with our bare skin for a period of the day,
the pages of magazines, and remain, in my opinion, one of our the last being a notion one would be forgiven to be reticent
most exciting contributions to the global fashion stage. In our about given the PSAs regarding sun damage.
cover story, shot by Nick Sethi in the gardens of Mumbai, In the same vein, Vasudha Rai makes a strong case for salt.
Delhi native Avanti Nagrath is all cheekbones, limbs wrapped Be it for purposes of soaking, scrubbing, cleaning or protecting,
in Supriya Lele, Bloni and Louis Vuitton with a kohl-rimmed this ancient mineral—whether Epsom, Himalayan or procured
gaze to rival Rekha’s and hands stained red with henna as she from the Dead Sea—makes for a compelling component of
strikes a pose for our first new-age self-care at a refreshingly accessible buy-in. Surabhi
MEGHA KAPOOR. SHIRT (USED AS SCARF), DRESS; BOTH AKAARO
cover of the year. Yadav’s eloquent essay highlighting her ongoing project on
We open the issue women at leisure and how rest and relaxation are crucial to
with the idea of nazar feminine liberation particularly resonated with me. To know
battu (as it is known in yourself when you can just be… “A culture of leisure could be
India and Pakistan) or an antidote to [these] oppressive structures; a state of just ex-
cheshm nazar (Afghan isting without having to earn the right to exist.” A case, if ever
and Persian folklore) there was one, for more time spent in the sun.
which means introducing Wishing you all a very Happy New Year.
a token of “imperfection”
to ward off bad juju.
Whether that involves
using ample amounts of
dark kohl to line your
eyes (à la Nagrath), lay-
er ing amulets from

Contributors VOGUE
Laura
Gavrilenko
Burman
Paris-based model and creative director
Gavrilenko Burman has worked with various
prestigious houses and publications across the
globe, including Vogue. In ‘Sun worship’ she
visually manifests the human connection with
the source of life on earth. Page 50
SURABHI
YADAV
Yadav is a gender and rural development
practitioner, and the founder of Sajhe Sapne, a
rural women-focused social enterprise. She is also
the creator of the internationally praised project
Basanti: Women At Leisure. In ‘The right to rest’,
Yadav makes a case for why leisure lies
at the heart of feminist liberation. Page 74
James
Tolich
An Auckland native, Tolich refined his artistic
sensibility while working in New York, Paris,
London and Sydney, moving freely between
photographic modes. In ‘High tide’, he lenses
bright silks, brighter jewels and the sartorial icon
of the subcontinent: the sari. Page 104
NICK
SETHI
Florida-born Sethi’s photography focuses
on capturing the essence of the human spirit.
MARTON KECSKES (LAURA)
In ‘All about Avanti’, he shoots model-of-

the-moment and cover star Avanti Nagrath
against the varied cityscape of Mumbai.
Page 82

VOGUE Style

HIGH
VOLTAGE
A concoction of electric neons will effectively
stylise your main-character energy
1. ‘Degrade Impatiens Earrings’,

OSCAR DE LA RENTA,
₹32,284 2. CLINIQUE ‘High
Impact Custom Black Kajal’,
₹1,600 3. CHANEL ‘Les Beiges
Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream’,
₹4,100 4. KEVYN AUCOIN
‘Loose Setting Powder’ price on
request 5. ‘Baguette’, FENDI,
price on request
2
5
NICK SETHI

VOGUE Style
THOM BROWNE
1. Floral necklace,
MIU MIU, price on
INDIGITAL MEDIA
request 2. ‘Essential
Tea Rose Bag Charm’,
COACH, ₹ 6,212
3. MARC JACOBS
‘Daisy Love’, ₹9,937
HEAVY PETAL
Capture the first crop of spring in a campy
carry-all plucked straight off the runway

Style VOGUE
TOP OF
THE WORLD
Bypass grounded soles for a few extra
inches with platform heels that take
things to a whole new level 1
2
1. ‘Tan-Go Pumps With Crystals’, VALEN-

INDIGITAL MEDIA
TINO GARAVANI, ₹2,07,844 2. ‘Mostra

Mary-Jane Pumps’, BOTTEGA VENETA,
price on request 3. ‘Gucci Cut Platform
FENDI Sandals’, GUCCI, price on request

VOGUE Style
GOODWILL HUNTING
ILLUSTRATION BY RITHIKA MERCHANT
Hindu myths, Afghan folklore and everything in between—whether places

near or far, there resides a way to conjure good hope, intentions and
manifestations. This year, we’re all for cleansing our orbits with emblematic
nazar battu. From Bikaner’s amulets to the bold midnight hues found in kohl-
spiced eyes, ruffles, lace and tulle—we’re looking at the trinkets with the
ultimate power to filter good vibrations and safeguard destinies
PHOTO: BIKRAMJIT BOSE/VOGUE INDIA

VOGUE Style
Blind spot 3
A surrealist twist to grand 1. ‘Magdalena Necklace’, JENNIFER

symbolism, apply a Dali-esque ZEUNER JEWELRY, ₹1,65,740 2. ‘Petit
Jaune Earrings’, LITO, ₹ 1,25,605 3. ‘Dawn
eye to everyday trinkets Pendant’, ILEANA MAKRI, ₹4,43,860
Heavenly
bodies
Align with the moon’s many moods and
recharge your totemic trinkets which
promise to never let your light be eclipsed
GETTY IMAGES. MEGHA KAPOOR
NEW PHASES OF the moon bring different energies that can

help cleanse and charge your crystals. So if you’re going to be work-
ing with the moon, understanding the energies each phase brings
is key, as lunar energy can help you enhance the intentions you pull
into your talismans. For example, the full moon’s waning phase
moving into the blackness of the new moon instigates release.

1
1. KIKO MILANO
‘Ultimate Pen Eyeliner’, Eye speak
BIKRAMJIT BOSE
₹ 850 2. CHANEL ‘Stylo

Yeux Waterproof Long-Last-
ing Eyeliner’, ₹ 2400
Age-old rituals that redress style with intention, a strong
hand of classic kohl shields in more ways than one
VOGUE Style
1 2 3 4
Lady luck
Tales from dune-capped Bikaner’s by-lanes uncover a shining amulet:
the mandaliya is just the old-world version of luck-proofed charms
LATURIA
1. ‘Be In Love’ charm, COLETTE, ₹ 2,64,500 2. ‘Loverglyphs Femme Power Earring’, DYNE, ₹ 49,34,990 3. ‘Enamel Clover Love Token’,
ASHLEY ZHANG, ₹1,45,146 4. ‘Four Heart Clover with Pave True Love Knot’, FOUNDRAE, price on request

2
Dark pursuits
Good fortune and lace look
favourable if brewed in inky black
1
to match the midnight hour
3
1. ‘Cosmic Compass
Pendant’, SYNA,
₹ 1,74,175 2. ‘Studded Tulle
Top’, PRADA, price on
request 3. ‘Naughtily-D
Boots’, DIOR, price on
request 4. ‘Fendi Roma
Placemat’, FENDI, price
MARTIN MAE
on request

VOGUE Style
Meet Madhulika
From India’s bucolic northeast to the buzz of New York City,
model, philanthropist (and movie star in the making) Madhulika
Sharma is a whip-smart multi-hyphenate proving that her beauty
comes bolstered with brains, says DIVYA BALA. Photographed by
KATHERINE GOGUEN. Styled by RUPANGI GROVER
E
veryone’s like, ‘who’s this clown boots, Assam-born Sharma’s sartorial between the Himalayan mountains. There,
walking?!’” laughs Madhulika effervescence makes her easy to spot. her childhood consisted of school and
Sharma. The model, reflecting on However, anyone in the 24-year-old’s coming home to “dilly dally” with her
how her buttoned-up neighbours presence could note that it’s not simply sister, making dolls, reading, picking or-
might perceive her flamboyant her dynamic flair that catches the atten- anges and hand-churning milk to make
style, lives right on Wall Street in New tion but her razor-sharp, determined mind. ghee, and playing Hindustani music and
York City’s financial district. “My per- Sharma was born and raised in As- classical Western piano (Sharma played
sonal style is very colourful, so I always sam, south of the eastern Himalayas, for 12 years, including a stint training at
stand out as I’m by the Stock Exchange.” where she and her family lived before the Trinity College of London). After six
Indeed, in a sea of men in suits and moving to Arunachal Pradesh, tucked years, the family returned to Assam, where

FLY AWAY
Top, GANNI. Skirt,
vintage PRADA from
No Standing NYC.
Opposite page: Shirt,
URA. Jacket, KSENIA
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Dress Articles

VOGUE Style
LAY YOUR HEAD DOWN

Sweater, LAPONTE

Sharma began to grow into herself.
After being discovered through Ins-
tagram, Sharma politely turned down a
major international modelling agency in
Mumbai at 18 to continue her studies on
home soil. “I value my education. So I
started with three years of working [as a
model] in Delhi and studying Econom-
ics and Political Science at Miranda
House.” Whilst studying, Sharma debut-
ed with Anju Modi’s ‘Bajirao Mastani’
collection, after which a Fabindia ‘Ra-
jwada’ campaign made her a household
name domestically. She went on to com-
plete approximately 40 editorials in three
years, landing major covers, campaigns,
and spreads with the likes of Tarun Ta-
hilliani and Anita Dongre. Scattered in
between were a few three-day round trips
to the US to shoot for brands like Shop-
bop, finishing her homework on the
flights back home.
Despite having lived in the US for
only three years (2023 will be her fourth),
“I like androgynous,
cross-gender dressing,
so I love wearing Helmut
Lang and Hervé Leger. I
wear a lot of my close
friends’ labels, from New
York and South Asia”
—MADHULIKA
SHARMA
she has already mastered downtown New
York cool (think more Soho than Stock
Exchange), tempered with local design-
ers and pieces from home. “I wear Suket
[Dhir’s] double-sided reversible bomber
jacket that he gave me when I was leav-
ing India. One of the sides has a depiction
from the Gita, showing Krishna playing
with the gopi, his whole little posse,” Shar-
ma describes. “And my mum and my
grandma have given me a lot of tradi-
tional tribal jewellery. Some of it is from
Arunachal and some of it is actual tradi-
tional Assamese jewellery that we wear
during festive occasions like Bihu, which
is our New Year’s, in April.”
“I like androgynous, cross-gender
dressing, so I love wearing Helmut Lang
and Hervé Leger. I wear a lot of my close
friends’ labels, from New York and South
Asia. One of them is Sheena [Sood] who
has a brand called Abacaxi. I have a Chi-

VOGUE Style
COP A SQUAT
Top, ANNA SUI. Trousers,
DKNY from No Standing
NYC. Opposite page: Dress,
boots; both CHLOÉ

1.‘Sardine Top Handle
Silver Streak
Bag’, BOTTEGA
VENETA, price on
With a touch of metallic, Sharma shows us how
request 2. ‘Basket Weave
Pencil Skirt’, ISA
to do sleek whites—from accessories to dresses
BOULDER, ₹ 59,008
3. ‘Crown Me Woven
Belt’, ETRO, price on
request 4. ‘Saint Delaney’
hand woven heels,
SAINT G, ₹11,500

VOGUE Style
FULL CIRCLE
Dress, vintage OSCAR
DE LA RENTA from
No Standing NYC

CRAFTED WITH CARE
A hand-embroidered indigo-dyed jacket made in Eri silk from
Assam, where the embroidery shows rural women swimming in
a pond under palm and wild “kosu” trees. Left: A colour swatch
card of stoles from Yarn Glory
INSIDE LOOK
From left: A Daisy Street jacket from Buffalo Exchange where
Sharma trades worn clothes and picks up pre-loved items. A clutch
from L Train Vintage—one of the model’s most visited thrift stores
in New York. Traditional Assamese Dholbiri and Jonbiri jewellery,
including pieces she has inherited from her mother, and coin
necklaces made by the Apatani tribe of Arunachal Pradesh
nese friend, Danica Zheng, who has a Vogue India’s February 2021 cover]. Dur- my style now.”
label called DANZ. A friend of mine ing wedding season, or if I’m going for Buying secondhand and thrifting is
called Waleed Mian runs a brand called an event, I will have a little handmade also key to her consumer philosophy.
Profound, who now retail at Bergdorf ’s piece from an Indian designer with a pair Around the time she walked her first
—and they’re from Lahore. I also like a of denim and a pair of stilettos. So, I guess, runway show in New York, Sharma made
lot of Indian home-grown designers like kind of incorporating Western and East- a declaration on her Instagram that she
Suket [Dhir] and Ura [who featured on ern: that’s definitely become more of would no longer be wearing fast fashion,

VOGUE Style
1. ‘Fynn Handcrafted Collar’,
MOONRAY, ₹ 4,350
2. ‘Scalloped collar’, VIVETTA,
₹ 20,197 3.‘Bead-Embellished
Draped Collar’, ALCHEMY,
₹29,047
TOP FORM
Shirt, CELINE. Sheer top,
THE BREAK. Skirt,
WOODROSE DELI
HAIR: SIRSA PONCIANO AT ART DEPARTMENT USING L’ORÉAL PRO. MAKE-UP: JEWELS GROGAN AT THE WALL GROUP
Final Flourish 3
USING CHARLOTTE TILBURY. PHOTO ASSISTANT AND LIGHTING DESIGN: SERGIO AVELLANEDA
A bib around the collar is both
bold and elegant
a philosophy she is careful to honour— branding, taking on the work as some- pandemic), she has once again returned
even going so far as to decline work with thing of a passion project that grew into to academics—this time adding a Masters
certain brands due to her stance. something more rewarding. “In 2020, we at the prestigious Stella Adler Studio of
Never one to do one thing at a time, found out that almost 12 women in a Acting, reading lines every night.
Sharma has supplemented her fashion certain village now had a bank account “I’ve always felt like I have the need
work in the US by working with Yarn for the first time,” explains Sharma. “They or the urgency to say something really
Glory, a clothing brand and foundation were perhaps in their 30s and 40s and loud,” explains Sharma of her decision to
begun by Sharma’s mother, Anannya, in they’d never had a bank account [before study film and theatre. When asked
2004. Yarn Glory works with rural arti- working with Yarn Glory], never had whether she’d like to be in front of or
sans across Assam and the Northeast of money or savings.” behind the camera, she offers, “It’s both,
India to create feather-light Ahimsa silk Nowadays, alongside jumping planes I think; because I come from such a small
(made without killing the silkworm), for modelling gigs, working with Yarn part of India. I think I really just want to
coloured with vegetable and fruit dyes. Glory and offering her platform to phil- be able to share my story as well as kind
Yarn Glory supplies scarves and separates anthropic organisations such as Mum- of uplift other creatives from Assam and
to Anthropologie and DKNY Home. bai-based NGO Earthangels Welfare around the Northeast. I think that’s re-
Since the pandemic, Sharma has helped Foundation (who feed daily wage earners ally, like, my primary goal for now. Yeah,
her mother with photography and re- who have lost their livelihoods due to the so it feels very important to me.”

NOV AUG
2019 2019
150 150
THE VOGUE
WATCH
REPORT
2019
Timepieces
to binge on
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BEAUTY
CARBON
FOOTPRINT?
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WOMEN of the YEAR
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2019 U N F I L T E R E D
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68
2019 2018 2018
150 150 150
SRIDEVI: YOU CAN

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Everything KYLIE
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Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Pharrell Williams
and the art of playing it cool HYDARI*
* we’ll have what she’s having
GUEST EDITED BY SABYASACHI
STARRING PRIYANKA CHOPRA JONAS
VOGUE Style
Desk self forward

Rukaiya Daud, the woman behind the New Zealand-based luxury
homeware destination Fourth Street and the Sydney-based bedwear label
Sutram, gives SADAF SHAIKH a peek into her corner of creativity
“Living in Bondi allows for a morning dip in the ocean,

a sauna, or an ice plunge in the ocean pool before work”
“My workspace is at home.
I guess it’s where I am most in my
element. It’s quiet and I mostly
operate in solitude. Although I am
social, I am quite introverted when
it comes to my job. I do my deepest
work early in the morning or late
at night when it is silent and
distractions are at a minimum”
“My work desk is very minimal.

I just need my laptop, notebook and
pen. Although I operate digitally for
the most part, I do rely on the more
tactile and analogue moments as
well. Putting pen to paper is
important to me and I find that it
allows me to process thoughts and
ideas in a way that a screen doesn’t”

VOGUE Style
Spot on
Louis Vuitton’s newest collaboration with Yayoi
Kusama gives an artsy and hypnotic twist to the
classics. By SHRIYA ZAMINDAR
YAYOI KUSAMA
I
f seen through the lens of creativity, Yayoi Kusama’s spot-cov- the goal for each has always been to create something infinite
ered beautiful anomalies—seen on unusually large pumpkins, in its essence.
tentacles, and hypnotic spotted surfaces—have a lot in com- Kusama’s body of work references a new form of minimal-
mon with Louis Vuitton, the luxury lover’s go-to name. On ism, an idea that is ingrained in the country’s subcultures. The
the surface, these two strong entities may seem to stand philosophy behind creating these avant-garde installations,
poles apart—one drenches its luggage in an emblematic four- encrypted with Morse code-like symbolism, reveals more about
point star and a quartet-petalled flower, while the other uses the inner workings of the artist’s mind. “I used to live in pov-
polka dots. But under these attractively packaged masterpieces, erty, not even having enough to eat, but now I am in the best

ALL-OVER
The heritage French
brand’s newest
collaboration with
Kusama explores its
emblematic bags and
other ephemera
in a new light

POLKA POWER
Spots knitted over suits
and skirt sets, on metal
hardware and
accessories— Kusama’s
artwork features in the
collection through
different variations
PHOTOS (COLLECTION): OLIVER HADLEE PEARCH; BOBBY DOHERTY (STILL-LIFE). STYLED BY: CARINE ROITFELD

Style VOGUE
“I have been making my clothes since I was a teenager.

I also ran a fashion company in the 1960s. At that
time, fashion and art were two completely different
genres, but I have never made a distinction between
them. I don’t think of them as separate because that
way I can explore new fields”
time of my life because I am in an environment where I can around, she returns to the heritage brand’s ateliers to transform
devote myself to painting from morning to night,” answers an entire range of items—from a line for womenswear and
Kusama when asked about her happiest moments. menswear to accessories and more.
This dedication to her craft also demonstrates her penchant Kusama’s artistic brilliance has also extended to fashion in
for the recurring expression of ‘Infinity’ in her work. The con- the past. “I have been making my clothes since I was a teenag-
nection is clear with the heritage French brand, whose acces- er. I also ran a fashion company in the 1960s. At that time,
sories have an evergreen quality and are eternally loved, result- fashion and art were two completely different genres, but I have
ing in visibility in the fashion strata for decades. Art has also never made a distinction between them. I don’t think of them
consistently been a genre Louis Vuitton has explored over the as separate because that way I can explore new fields,” she ex-
years, fostering collaborations with artists such as Jeff Koons, plains. For Louis Vuitton, her floral patterns have been stippled
Sol LeWitt, Richard Prince and Takashi Murakami, among in jacquard over men’s suits and embroidered over blouses, while
others. So to have one of the most successful and wildly popu- they come embossed over men’s accessories like the Keepall.
lar female artists right now is very well a prophesied success. For women, the artwork takes over as the main attraction, with
This is the second time Kusama has made Louis Vuitton’s spots enlarged to cover the surfaces of Capucines and wrap
beloved creations the canvas for her art. In 2012, she refashioned skirts. Clothing, shoes and bags have all been enveloped into
the Louis Vuitton trunk with her signature spots, laying the her universe with careful deliberation, where the spots are wo-
foundation for this burgeoning relationship. “During my last ven into 3D knits printed onto silks and embossed. Not to miss
project, I received a great response from people all over the the little details, the spots proliferate on the soles of loafers as
world. In this one too, I would like to share my artistic philos- well as on the metal hardware—strong signatures of the brand
ophy and thoughts with everyone,” says Kusama. This time that fit into their new versions with natural ease.

VOGUE Style
Greatest of all time

As the James Bond franchise celebrates 60 years, Vogue India
reflects on the Omega watches that equipped the legendary spy and
his leading ladies on their secret missions. By RISHNA SHAH
IN 1995, OSCAR-WINNING costume beyond was everything you’d expect from a lollipop seconds hand and a 12-hour
designer Lindy Hemming decided that a secret agent, and more. Since its first bezel scale were also added, and a new
James Bond would wear an Omega cameo sighting in GoldenEye, the ‘Sea- Master Co-Axial calibre 8400 was fitted
watch. She selected a ‘Seamaster’ model master’ took a larger supporting role in inside. While the latter didn’t have much
from the Swiss horologers with a marine the storylines of future sequels. For ex- cinematic presence, the impressive in-
blue bezel, wave patterned dial and steel ample, in Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), novation allowed for magnetism up to
bracelet to elevate his look. “I was the timepiece was fitted with a detona- 15,000 gauss, a utilitarian feat for a spy
convinced that Commander Bond, a tor. In The World Is Not Enough (1999), about town. By this time in history the
naval man, a diver and a discreet gentle- the handy accessory was upgraded with ‘Seamaster’ had such a cult following that
man of the world would wear this watch,” flashing LED lights and a grappling Omega decided to reproduce this Spec-
explained Hemming on Pierce Brosnan’s hook with a 50ft microfilament line be- tre edition for 7,007 lucky clients.
debut in GoldenEye (1995). Her astute cause frankly, why not? In Die Another
decision catapulted the ‘Seamaster’ into Day (2002), a built-in laser was deemed 2012: ‘Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m’
stardom—not only did it become a best- necessary in the device as well as a det- watch
seller (who wouldn’t want to get their onating pin activated by a twist of the By Skyfall (2012), an Omega watch was
hands on a Bond watch?) but an impor- bezel. The ‘Seamaster’ was truly in its a logical choice for Miss Moneypenny
tant tool in the wardrobe of the spy and element here, and its capabilities during too. For this blockbuster, actor Naomie
the film’s female protagonist as well as this time period never failed to entertain. Harris rolled up her sleeves and got down
the script, assisting them on their ad- to business wearing her very first ‘Sea-
ventures and sometimes even keeping 2002-2015: ‘Seamaster 300m’ watch master’ in steel with a grey dial and div-
them alive. Here are six important ver- With the departure of Brosnan, a new ing depths up to 150 metres. The time-
sions of the heroic his and hers ‘Sea- Bond era began with Daniel Craig in piece got its camera close-up during the
master’ timepiece you need to know. Casino Royale (2006). While most of pivotal scene when Moneypenny shoots
Craig’s on-screen watches were limited Bond atop a speeding train in Turkey.
1995-2002: ‘Seamaster Professional to time-telling, the MI6 agent’s ‘Sea- Dressed in soldier khakis and decked
300m’ watch master’ in Spectre (2015) did in fact come with war weapons, Harris (and her
Is a Bond watch even a Bond watch with explosive capabilities (finally!) and watch) looked as cool as a cucumber,
without all the gadgets and gizmos? a military style nylon NATO strap brace- fearless and fabulous in equal doses. “I
Brosnan’s arm candy from the 1990s and let instead of the usual steel. Details like wore a very classic watch that had a beau-
1995 2002 2008

TIME TELLER
The first ‘Seamaster’ was spotted on Pierce Brosnan in GoldenEye (1995). Since then, several
iterations of the timepiece evolved on and off screen

Omega’s ‘Seamaster’ watch is an important tool in the
spy’s (and his female protagonist’s) wardrobe and script,
assisting them on their adventures and sometimes even
keeping them alive
tiful pattern, like the deck of a luxury army engravings instead. “When work- Omega’s most recent novelty isn’t
sailboat. It was the perfect watch for ing with Omega, we decided that a light- aligned with a fi lm release, rather to
Moneypenny as she is elegant but also weight watch would be key for a military highlight a milestone in the 007 time-
very grounded and practical,” admitted man like 007. I also suggested some line. Dedicated to all the previous iter-
Harris, who still wears the watch off- vintage touches and colours to give the ations of the beloved timepiece, it comes
screen and isn’t afraid to experiment with watch a unique edge,” he explained. with nostalgic characteristics that will
her Omegas. For the Spectre premiere spark joy for Bond buff s. The steel and
she switched things up by sourcing a 2021: ‘Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m’ blue anodised aluminium dial with a
diamond encrusted vintage watch from watch laser-engraved waves motif is reminis-
the brand’s museum in Zurich to wear Craig wasn’t the only one with a strong cent of the Brosnan days. The lollipop
with a tangerine Stella McCartney dress. wrist game in No Time To Die. Field central seconds hand is a throwback to
For her appearance in No Time To Die agent Nomi (played by Lashana Lynch) Spectre and the steel mesh bracelet is a
(2021) Harris swapped the ‘Seamaster’ buckled up Bond’s signature watch for nod to No Time To Die. And there are
(gasp!) for a ‘De Ville Prestige’ with a her role as the first black woman to play extra thematic touches to zoom into: a
27.4mm opaline dial, Roman numerals a 00 agent in the franchise. Lynch’s ver- ‘60’ at 12 o’clock, instead of a tradition-
and a gutsy hunter green leather strap. sion came in steel with a robust 38mm al triangle (to symbolize 60 years of
teak-patterned dial, rhodium-plated Bond) and seven screws on the caseback
2021: ‘Seamaster 300m Co-Axial Chro- hands, a date window at 6 o’clock and a (for 007). However, the most interesting
nometer’ watch durable NATO strap that matched per- feature is the animation on the flip side.
For Craig’s final Bond performance in fectly with her combat gear. She battled Just like in the opening credits, Bond’s
No Time To Die (2021), the actor rolled baddies (in this case, the villainous Ly- silhouette framed by the iconic gun
up his sleeves and got hands-on (liter- utsifer Safin) armed with the technical barrel, is recreated into a moving graph-
ally) in designing his first watch with ingenuity of the Master Chronometer ic for the wrist. This marvellous gim-
Omega. Craig got his creative juices calibre 8800 mechanism (a godsend for mick is the result of the patent-pending
flowing by selecting a brushed titanium magnetic resistance) ticking away at her ‘moire’ technique, powered by the watch
case, a mesh bracelet, a dark brown alu- left wrist. movement itself. Now that’s some se-
minium dial and bezel. The star opted rious main character energy. As for the
for a more rugged aesthetic, toning down 2022: ‘Seamaster Diver 300m 60 Years next Bond? We think it ’s time for
on 007 branding and replacing it with Of Bond’ watch a woman.
2015 2021 2022

MILE STONES
By Spectre (2015) we were in the Daniel Craig era, and the beloved watch was tweaked with NATO and mesh straps
(No Time To Die, 2021), and even an animated caseback to celebrate 60 years of the franchise

VOGUE Style
INCUBATING CREATIVITY
Vibrant cool colours paint the exterior of the Gucci ArtLab, breathing life into the space that inspires makers and creators alike
New life
Focused on cultivating the next generation of eco-conscious
craftsmen and designers, Gucci’s ArtLab is the melting pot
where creativity meets technology, says BRYAN HO
vibrant array of colours decorates the ex- providing unique training experiences. This includes the crafts-
terior walls of an industrial-looking build- manship school, factory school and technical academy. These
ing. Pink and purple street art plaster one courses are taught by a pool of staff which consists of world-class
side, with turquoise and lime green art- artisans, managers who run day-to-day operations, as well as
works displaying flora and fauna occupy- retired former colleagues, all dedicated to educating the next gen-
ing the other. eration on the unique savoir faire and house codes of the brand.
Housed in Florence, Italy, and spanning Antonella Centra, executive vice president general counsel
an area of over 37,000 square metres, Guc- of corporate affairs and sustainability at Gucci, credits part of
ci ArtLab is where a certain sort of magic happens. Located near the house’s success to the lab’s ability to transform an idea into
the headquarters of the company in Casellina, ArtLab has been reality. “ArtLab epitomises our desire to connect dots and cre-
active since 2018 and currently boasts a staff of over 950. A hub ate a collaborative ecosystem. It is an incredible place where
for in-house prototyping and sampling new products, it’s a centre designers enter with a dream and leave with a physical product.
for experimentation and innovation. ArtLab’s mission is to meld art and industrial craftsmanship
EDWARD HENDRICKS
together to generate a unique combination capable of nurturing

THE COMING TOGETHER OF KNOWLEDGE AND our designers, and letting them unfold their creativity through
TRADITION innovative products.”
ArtLab features an artisan school with various programmes, each So how exactly has Gucci achieved this? To date, ArtLab is

A LOOK INSIDE
A showroom inside
Gucci Artlab. Below:
Experimentation meets
innovation at the Artlab
“ArtLab epitomises our

desire to connect dots and
create a collaborative
ecosystem. It is an incredible
place where designers enter
with a dream and leave with a
physical product”
— ANTONELLA CENTRA,
EVP General Counsel,
Corporate Affairs &
Sustainability, Gucci
renowned for the meticulous yet environmentally-conscious pro- materials. The main fabric and lining are made in Econyl, a re-
cesses used during manufacturing. Introduced in 2018, ‘scrap-less generated nylon. Another example of the work done at the lab
leather’, an innovative solution used to reduce leather wastage, was would be Demetria, an animal-free material that’s part of Guc-
implemented. The programme has seen tremendous success, with ci’s Off The Grid luggage collection. Demetria combines quality,
13 tanneries participating and over 450 tons of leather scraps softness and durability with an eco-friendly ethos. Furthermore,
reduced to date. there are no impediments to scalability or limitations on volume,
Another pillar that has proved successful is Gucci Up, also rarely seen in the majority of new materials produced.
launched in 2018. Introduced as a way to give life to scrap ma- The brand has also made changes to its packaging for retail
terials post-manufacturing (such as leather and textile leftovers), and e-commerce, introducing green packaging made from pa-
the programme has committed upcycled or discontinued fabrics per and cardboard from responsibly managed sources. Previous
and leathers to social cooperatives. This has simultaneously cre- freight packaging fillers have been replaced with reusable tote
ated new opportunities for women and marginalised socioeco- bags and adaptable freight packaging.
nomic groups. All these changes, however, have only enhanced what mat-
Innovative products developed from research and development ters to the brand, which Centra perfectly describes: “The features
at ArtLab have helped reduce Gucci’s plastic footprint, such as inherent to Gucci’s products are quality, durability, aesthetics:
the Gucci Circular Lines collection that features over 70 products our products are made to last, to be passed on from generation
all made of recycled, regenerated, organic and sustainably sourced to generation.”

VOGUE Style
Dream team
A heritage cantonment house in Bengaluru,
restored by designer Vinita Chaitanya, is home
to couturier Tarun Tahiliani’s new boutique. By
KOMAL BASITH and RITUPRIYA BASU
TARUN TAHILIANI HAS a new ad- gable roofs, known as monkey tops, fea- ceilings, so walking in felt wonderfully
PHOTOS: GOKUL RAO KADAM
dress in the south with his latest flagship turing lattices punctuated by embellish- familiar,” says Tahiliani. “We wanted to
store in Bengaluru. Nestled in the heart ments and traditional terrazzo tiles. It is keep things as intact as we could,” he says
of the city, the store is housed in a herit- the tiles which first drew the designer to
age home of a kind rarely seen in Ben- the property. “I grew up in a building right OLD WORLD
The new Tarun Tahiliani store drops a
galuru anymore—a cantonment house next to the Taj in Bombay, which featured pin in Bengaluru with a heritage home
with traditional, instantly recognisable the exact same tiles and the same high as the location

OPULENT ELEGANCE
Emroidered wallpapers, a smattering of
Swarovski crystals, and a ‘tree of life’
depiction take centre stage at the new
Tarun Tahiliani store
of his latest project, designed in collabo-

ration with his friend, interior designer
Vinita Chaitanya.
His collections flow through the
home in much the same way its inhabit-
ants would walk through it, with each
room housing one of its own—accessories
on the left, ready-to-wear on the right,
the traditional aangan (courtyard) with
its high ceilings housing Tahiliani’s cou-
ture collection. There are private rooms
upstairs for fittings—and as for the fitting
rooms downstairs, they flow into the
home just like everything else, housed as “I grew up in a building right next to the Taj in
they are in the original alcoves of the
property. “We didn’t want to add parti-
Bombay, which featured the same tiles and high
tions of any kind because that would’ve ceilings, so walking in felt wonderfully familiar”
broken the symmetry of the tiles,” says
Tahiliani, and it’s symbolic of just how
— TARUN TAHILIANI
true the designer-decorator duo have
stayed to the original bones of the house. mansion, Tahiliani and Chaitanya too ed ability to gently balance the old and
As for his venture into the city, Ta- laced the space with their own identities the new. “The first time Tarun and I saw
hiliani mentions a previous project that and language. Tahiliani’s singular com- the space, we both knew exactly what we
brought him to Bengaluru often. He re- mitment to craftsmanship shines through wanted to do. We retained the stunning
calls seeing incredibly stylish develop- the embroidered wallpapers, dotted with floors, and added a tonal wainscoting,
ments all the way from Hosur, where his hand-cut abalone and a smattering of using the motifs from the floors as ac-
project was, to the airport two-and-a- Swarovski crystals, originally made for cents.” This echo of patterns and motifs
half-hours away. “That, to me, was a sign a commission for Chaitanya. A “tree of runs through the space—the four-petalled
that we needed to be here,” he says. “Be- life” takes centre stage in the dou- flower in the antique tiles is mirrored in
sides, some of our chicest clients in Bom- ble-height hallway; a great banyan tree, the wainscoting, as well the custom-made
bay come from [Bengaluru].” It’s some- a silent sentinel, becomes home to an carpets, designed by Tahiliani and craft-
thing he sees in the architecture of the explosion of life. Blooming flowers, liz- ed by Obeetee. It is these considered
city as well. “Nobody’s trying to copy an ards, and butterflies with wings embroi- details that become a quiet hat-tip to the
Italian villa here,” he says with his trade- dered in filigree-like patterns come alive deep collaborative spirit between the two
mark wry grin. “People have their own through techniques pulled from Tahil- creative forces who, together, have turned
unique sense of identity.” iani’s repertoire. a run-down mansion into an enchanting
In restoring this once-dilapidated Chaitanya too brings her light-hand- portal to the world of Tarun Tahiliani.

CHECK IT OUT
Jamdani dresses from designer label
Injiri, which holds a long-time
association with 200 jamdani
weavers. Opposite page: The
supplementary weft, unique to the
jamdani weave, makes the floral
patterns look like embroidery

Style VOGUE
Skin of the moon

Mysterious, romantic and historically scandalous, jamdani
is Injiri’s choice of canvas, finds VINITA MAKHIJA
ANKIT LODH; GOURAB GANGULI
PICTURE A ROMANTIC setting cloth. The same breeze passes through the alike. In the first century BC, Roman
during the Mughal era. An emperor has weft lock of the weave. The fabric is author Petronius in Satyricon called it
fought a long, hard battle and conquered opaque, but one wonders if it would dis- “woven wind” and waxed eloquent on the
land and gold. On his return, he only solve at the slightest touch. fabric’s beauty: “Thy bride might as well
wishes to see his beloved. Society rules Jamdani certainly could. clothe herself with a garment of the wind
dictate decorum—the empress can only Rarely has a fabric captured the im- as stand forth publicly naked under her
see him behind gossamer, wispy layers of agination of poets, romantics and royalty clouds of muslin.” In Hindi and Urdu it

VOGUE Style
Rarely has a fabric captured the imagination of poets, romantics and

royalty alike. Jamdani’s diaphanous quality is so elusive that the Sufi
poet Amir Khusro called it “the skin of the moon”
is often referred to as ose ki boondein or Jamdani is thought to originate from takes someone of a certain sensitive bent
shabnam (morning dew) and aberawan two words—jama as in flower, and dani to work with jamdani. Thoughtful and
(running water). In its finest thread count, as in vase—to denote the abundance of restrained, 43-year-old Chinar Farooqui
it was believed a whole sari could fit into floral motifs found in its make. In the is certainly up for the challenge. She has
a matchbox. Its diaphanous quality is so olden days, the famous jamdani weaving ensured Injiri, her 13-year-old textile-fo-
elusive that the Sufi poet Amir Khusro centres were largely in Machilipatnam cused label, stands for her true commit-
called it “the skin of the moon”. in Andhra Pradesh, in Odisha, and in ment to Indian craft. Jamas, cholas and
However, its history isn’t entirely ro- undivided India’s Dhaka. The weave itself dhoti trousers in kala cotton, Bhujodi
mantic. Several oral and written accounts was referred to as ‘dakhai jamdani’. Now, weaves, chikankari and jamdani are made
allude to Indian weavers cutting off their West Bengal is home to the most skilled by master weavers for her brand, often
thumbs during the British Raj to escape jamdani weavers—even though its in- times entirely in shades of white. Faroo-
penalty and rules levied on regional digenous seeds may be lost today, as qui’s playful side can be noticed via tiny
weaves. Jamdani, unlike many other os- climate change does not allow the same
tentatious Indian textiles, may not be gossamer yarn to be spun. However, in-
shiny, but it requires the most deft hands dependent makers and designers contin- WHISPER-THIN
and keenest eyes to make. In its quiet ue to persevere in preserving what they Clothes made in kala cotton, Bhujodi
weaves, chikankari and jamdani, often
elegance, it was truly fit for a queen and can of this textile art form. entirely in shades of white, are the focus at
affordable only to royalty. It goes without saying, then, that it the 13-year-old textile focused label

“The final point in my association and work with textiles

and artisans cannot be a sale, it has to be something bigger”
—CHINAR FAROOQUI, Director, Injiri
additions of neon threads in her favour- collection. Instead of going the usual sari question, “How much skill exists in our
ite jamdani motifs—panna hajar (thou- route, Injiri showcased separates, contain- country?” To honour her long-time as-
sand emeralds), kalka (paisley), fulwar ing woven borders broken up and decon- sociation with the 200 jamdani weavers
(flowers arranged in straight rows), terchi structed in muslin khadi. she employs on 75-100 pit looms, she is
(diagonal patterns) and dhuria (polka “The final point in my association and also working on a documentary on In-
spots). In fine cotton yarn, jamdani pat- work with textiles and artisans cannot be dian muslin.
terns are inserted by hand through an a sale, it has to be something bigger,” The supplementary weft, unique to
extra weft, using either a shuttle or a confesses Farooqui. To that end, in 2021 the jamdani weave, makes the floral pat-
needle. This allows for a specific, artistic, she set up the Injiri Art Initiative, under terns look like embroidery as the inlay
human touch that is impossible to repli- which panels in jamdani and chikankari designs reflect on the garments in a scat-
cate on machines. were made to explore and nurture the tered format. For Farooqui, it is always
ANKIT LODH; GOURAB GANGULI
After years of studying jamdani piec- highest skill set that exists in our country. craft first.
es at the famed Calico Museum, trips to The panels were displayed at Music of
the Victoria & Albert Museum in Lon- Muslin in Mallorca, Spain in June 2022
don, and her own time as a textile design as a part of the heritage textile festival WEAVING STORIES
student at National Institute of Design, XTANT. Despite the honours at art fes- Farooqui’s playful side can be seen in
jamdani pieces that incorporate neon
Ahmedabad, Farooqui launched ‘Guler’ tivals, Farooqui insists they are still ex- colours and motifs such as polka dots,
in 2013, her first independent jamdani plorations, an evolving answer to the flowers and paisley

VOGUE Wedding
LOVE IN THE AIR

From a shagun thaal to remind them of home, and garlands strung together
with fresh flowers, Jagvir Matharoo and Martino Caramia’s intimate
wedding in Copenhagen was all heart, writes AKANKSHA KAMATH
H
ow would you imagine a an—its culture, textiles, and architec- means to lay back, take in the sun, and
meet-cute between two ture—brought him to Goa, which he calls let life take over.
incredibly stylish and tal- home now. Matharoo, meanwhile, comes “Since our design philosophies and ide-
ented fashion designers? from a fashion background: he studied at ologies synchronised from the very start,
Jagvir Matharoo and NIFT (National Institute of Fashion working together brought in growth;
Martino Caramia met in Mumbai over a Technology) and worked in Mumbai at personal and professional,” says Matharoo,
decade ago, at a fashion week cocktail an esteemed fashion house, with offices who along with Caramia, in a quiet coup,
party. The two found love instantly—their in Europe and India, for almost a decade left for Copenhagen, Denmark to regis-
shared interest for design, architecture, before moving to Goa. ter their marriage in a small exchange of
culture and fashion culminating in a busi- In Goa, where they now share a home vows and rings with their nearest and
ness relationship many years later. and run a fashion, accessories, and home
Caramia, south Italian with German decor concept store called The Flame
roots, spent his formative years in Europe Store, the couple lives and breathes the LEANING IN
The newly-weds share a kiss outside
and the United States working in fashion. ‘susegad’ way of life—a term borrowed the Copenhagen City Hall after
15 years ago, his love for all things Indi- from the state’s Portuguese lineage, which registering their marriage

THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL
PHOTO: ATHUL PRASAD/CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER INDIA
THE COLOUR OF LOVE
Clockwise from below: Newly-weds
Martino Caramia and Jagvir Matharoo.
The wedding invites peppered with
pictures of lovers as an ode to their
community. The couple and their closest
friends from around the world at the
wedding venue
“This was both an

emotional and
overwhelming feeling, to
understand how far we
have come and what a
long road waits
ahead”—JAGVIR
MATHAROO
dearest as witnesses. “Compared to other
European countries, Denmark makes it
much easier for international couples to
get married. Hence, we chose Copenha-
gen,” explains Matharoo on the destina-
tion of the wedding. Denmark was the
first country in the world to grant recog-
nition to same-sex unions in 1989, which
has now been replaced by a new marriage
law, making it popular among same-sex
couples who wish to marry.
“Once we had the date, we had a short
period of about six weeks to plan
everything. We both wanted an intimate
wedding with our close friends from
across the globe. So the hardest part was
getting our friends together with this brief
notice. They all made it. Almost all. The
ones who couldn’t, were dearly missed,”
explains Matharoo. The day was split in
three parts—the wedding ceremony at the
historic Copenhagen City Hall built in
1893. Built in the National Romantic
style, the place encapsulated everything
the couple loved, in terms of architecture

Wedding VOGUE
and design. This was followed by a cham-
pagne breakfast at the Art Deco-inspired
Hotel Coco in the hip Vesterbrogade
neighbourhood.
The wedding lunch was at a restaurant
that was typically Danish. Sans Souci,
which translates to “no worries”, was just
perfect in the Frederiksberg area of the
city. Here, a few rounds of typical Danish
Smørrebrød with never-ending cham-
pagne set the tone for the afternoon. In
the evening, the wedding party headed
to the new and chic Brasserie Prins for a
sit-down dinner. Emerald green walls
adorned with art and lush mustard velvet
curtains made this place intimate and
absolutely stylish. A dinner followed,
featuring a delectable, curated menu with
Scandinavian and French influences, and
wines selected by a sommelier. The couple
and their closest ended the day with some
good old dancing.
Colour was at the heart of all cele-
brations. “For the wedding we both wore
classic Nehru jackets: I, in an Indian aus-
picious red, and Martino was in a cardi-
nal vociferous pink. For the evening the
theme was classic black and gold. Mar-
tino was in a beautiful handwoven silk
jacquard suit with a Celtic Roman pattern
and I wore a classic twin button in a vin-
tage floral rose motif. These small but
significant connotations were a nod to
GILDED MEMORIES the culture we were both brought up in.”
For the wedding dinner, Caramia wore a handwoven silk Think of it as a merging of cultures,
jacquard suit and Matharoo wore a classic twin button in a colours and the couple’s shared love for
vintage floral rose motif
vintage.
Details, too, were delicately thought
through—for example, the vintage pho-
tographs of same-sex people in love from
the early 19th century, that personalised
the wedding invites. “This was both an
emotional and overwhelming feeling, to
understand how far we have come and
what a long road waits ahead…” Each
invite also had a set of custom hand-rolled
incense sticks with Matharoo and Cara-
mia’s most-loved scents—vetiver and
patchouli. At dinner, a small envelope
with beautiful foulards awaited guests,
handmade from fabrics that the couple
wore for the wedding dinner. “This was
our way of sharing a part of us with our
dear friends who have been such an
important part of both our lives in the
last decade.”
ALL HEART
The couple’s nearest and dearest at the
wedding dinner at Copenhagen’s
Brasserie Prins

VOGUE Wellness & Beauty
SUN WORSHIP
Life on earth evolved with sunlight. It energises our body, syncs our
biological rhythm and keeps us strong. Yet we shy away from it. Perhaps
it’s time to face the sunshine again, if only for 20 minutes every day,
writes SNEHA MANKANI. Photographed by ANAI BHARUCHA
THE MOST VIVID memory I have of yoga, followed by sun rituals—started at most sacred time of the day, not even the
my grandfather—one that in hindsight 4am, or brahma muhurta, the pe-dawn fear of the mighty U V R.
shaped my own life and how I perceive period where your mind is at its sharpest,
nature for its healing abilities—was the oxygen nascent. Mine may be a con-
watching him stare at the rising sun as it densed 30-minute version of it today that REFLECTIVE MOMENTS
painted the tall trees that surrounded our starts with meditating, raw and bare- One of the best ways to increase sattva
concrete building, and him, with its glo- skinned in cool cotton clothing in the (mental clarity and positivity) and connect
with the sun—a symbol of our eternal,
rious light. His morning routine, always morning sunlight, but just like him, I expansive, unlimited being—is to wake up
unhindered—an hour of meditation and never let anything come in the way of my before sunrise, the brahma muhurta

THE ULTIMATE ASANA
Beginning the day by practising
surya namaskar, the ultimate
body workout. It helps with
balancing hormones, optimising
digestion and improving mental
health (when facing the sun)

Shirt, URVASHI KAUR

“Ever wondered why we get ‘winter blues’, or
why ‘gloomy’ often denotes sunless days?
Sunlight nourishes everything in its path”
Significance of the Sun

Without the sun, earth would be a frozen,
dark, lifeless planet. “Ayurvedic science
considers the sun as the ultimate source
of power and energy,” says Dr Manoj
Kutteri, CEO and medical director of
Atmantan Wellness Centre. “Being ex-
posed to nature and its rhythmic light
and dark cycles provides us with the en-
ergy and strength to lead a healthy life.”
Ayurveda works on the principle of tri-
doshas—vata, pitta and kapha—the en-
ergies that govern the functioning of our
bodies, physically and emotionally. “The
sun is considered the main source of pit-
ta, the digestive fire in the human body,
responsible for every function from me-
tabolism of food to optimum blood cir-
culation that is mandatory to sustain
human life,” adds Ayurvedic doctor Dr
Dixa Bhavsar Savaliya.
From 150 million kilometres away,
the sun is responsible for many things—
the most common, a crucial vitamin that,
unlike other essential ones that can be
obtained from food, only synthesises
when our skin is exposed to UVB radia-
tion. We know the one, and often, most
of us don’t have enough of it. “Vitamin
D is an immune and energy boosting
hormone responsible for bone health,
lowering blood pressure, preventing phys-
ical disease and promoting mental health,”
says Dr Savaliya. But facilitating the for-
mation of vitamin D only tops the long
list of the sun’s role in our lives. Ever
wondered why we get ‘winter blues’, or
why ‘gloomy’ often denotes sun-less days?
Sunlight nourishes everything in its path,
including our physical and mental state.
“Exposure to sunlight can improve the
levels of serotonin, the happy hormone
released in our brain,” explains Dr Kutteri.
Serotonin helps us stay calm and focused,
and elevates our mood. A lack of it can
lead to anxiety and disturbed sleep among
other health issues. Sun exposure is also
part of many Ayurvedic and naturopath-
ic treatments for skin and health problems
like eczema, obesity, arthritis, diabetes,
insomnia, depression, and many more.

EXCERPTED FROM ‘THE AYURVEDA WAY: 108 PRACTICES FROM THE WORLD’S OLDEST HEALING SYSTEM FOR BETTER SLEEP, LESS STRESS,
OPTIMAL DIGESTION AND MORE’ BY ANANTA RIPA AJMERA (PUBLISHED BY STOREY PUBLISHING, AN IMPRINT OF WORKMAN PUBLISHING)
SUN MEDITATION
Close your eyes. Imagine the sun filling your heart with its brilliant rays. Observe your body, from head to toe. Notice
any discomfort you may be holding on to anywhere. Breathe into your discomfort. Imagine that the sun’s rays, filled
with abundance, health, creativity, knowledge and lasting joy are bringing healing into the areas that need it

FIRE AND LIGHT
The sun is the main source of
Agni, the digestive fire in one’s
body, which is responsible for
every function from
metabolism and hormonal
balance to the absorption of
vitamins and quality of sleep

Dress, ITUVANA

Our body has an internal clock, the tance of sunscreen have outnumbered the 4am and 6am. “Doing so helps you con-
circadian rhythm, which regulates our positives, creating a cloud of doubt and nect with the sun, a symbol of our eternal,
sleep-wake patterns and follows a 24- fear in our minds. But can we not find expansive, unlimited being,” she says,
hour cycle. When its balance is off, it can the right balance that lets us nourish our adding that it is the most auspicious time
have a disruptive effect on our body’s souls with this all-encompassing star’s for meditating, contemplating, breathing
overall functioning. “Exposure to the energy without having to hide under lay- and yoga.
morning and evening sun signals the hy- ers of protection? Whereas too much 2. Start your day with surya namaskars:
pothalamus in the brain to start waking UVR exposure can be bad, too little of it “Surya-namaskars are the ultimate body
up when the sun is up in the morning can be far worse. workout. They can help with hormonal
and start winding down when the sun balance, maintaining a healthy weight,
sets, ultimately syncing your biological Sun rituals optimising digestion, detoxifying and
clock with the circadian rhythm,” explains Establishing simple sun rituals will help improving mental health [when done
Dr Savaliya. us embrace its enriching energy without facing the sun],” says Dr Savaliya. Begin
Our connection with the sun can overstepping. the day with 6-12 rounds supplemented
affect how we eat, sleep and feel. Yet, we with co-ordinated breath.
fear and hide from that which we evolved. 1. Wake up between 4am-6am: Accord- 3. Practise atapa sevana: Known as sun
The concern is justifiable—harsh sun- ing to spiritual teacher, author, yoga in- bathing or sun soaking, exposing your
light’s proven damaging effects escalated structor and the co-founder and CEO of skin to the sun for 15-20 minutes every
by persistent PSAs on the utmost impor- The Ancient Way, Ananta Ripa Ajmera, day around noon when the UVB rays are
one of the best ways to curb negative high can help synthesis of vitamin D3
THE RIGHT BALANCE thinking and depression, connect with and improve circulation. “Drink plenty
Create a sacred space and ritual for your nature and increase sattva (mental clar- of water while you sit in the sun,” advis-
mind, body and soul to harness and
optimise the healing powers of the sun ity and positivity) is to wake up between es Dr Kutteri.
Daily rituals
When you need a helping hand to slow
down, energise and align
1.‘Ritual’ by VASUDHA RAI, ₹ 299 2. ‘Ganges

Copper Night Set’, GOOD EARTH ₹ 5,500
3. PUREARTH ‘Kwansha Facial Beauty Coin’ ₹5,500

A Clean Break
From head to toe, inside and out, everything’s better
with a touch of salt. By VASUDHA RAI
AS A FIVE-YEAR-OLD, nothing made me feel more grown Hall, a spa and well-being advisor and the founder of Spa Wal-
up and mummy-like than a makeshift, at-home pedicure. My lah. “The body naturally eliminates toxins itself; however, es-
legs were too short to dangle off a chair, so mum would make sential oils, salts, and other natural minerals can support this
me stand in the warm, salt-water-filled tub. As an adult, I use elimination,” he explains. “Himalayan, Dead Sea, and Epsom
raw sea salt to perform jal neti and Himalayan salt, and coconut salts can be used in assisting the body to draw out impurities,
oil to exfoliate my armpits. I also regularly take salt baths to ease aches and pains and remove dead skin cells, oil and dirt,”
cleanse negative energy. Salt is a staple across time and cultures,suggests Hall. “In salt scrubs infused in oil, the salt’s mineral
used for enhancement, preservation, protection and cleansing. ions penetrate the skin, stimulating regeneration, thus rejuve-
nating and rebalancing the complexion.”
The Folklore Whether it’s in indulgent spa practices, complicated yogic
“It is used in Wiccan practices as protection. In India, it repre- kriyas such as neti and shankaprakshalana (a yogic ritual to clean
sents goddess Lakshmi. In the Bible, a reference discusses using the intestines), or simply as a soak, scrub, or an aura cleansing
salt This
to counteract sins, while salt circles are commonly used in wash, salt is utilised in a multitude of ways. The best part about
PDF was uploade To Teligram channel_ LBS Newspaper platform (https://t.me/LBSNEWSPAPER) @LBSNEWSPAPER
rituals to protect the space,” says Ajay Kumar Parakkal, intuitive this substance is that it’s truly democratic as it costs little and
energy healer and founder Moksa Crystals, Gurugram. He ex- is always available at arm’s reach.
plains that though science has not deemed salt to be able to
remove any negative ions, salt water can help produce low-lev-
1 2
el electrical pulses, similar to the experience of those who prac-
tice Reiki and other forms of healing.
“Salt is essentially a crystal, and crystals have this great
ability to change wave patterns around us. Because salt is al-
kalising, it takes away heavy, humid energy from the environ-
ment," explains Nidhi Pandya Bhanshali, a third-generation
classically trained Ayurvedic practitioner who practises between
Mumbai and New York. The qualities of salt are unctuous, hot,
piercing, and kindling to the digestive fire. She gives the exam-
ple of how salt is used to melt snow in the West to illustrate its
sharp, piercing attributes. Interestingly, the other qualities of
salt, according to Bhanshali, are that it breaks bonds and pen-
etrates channels, along with a ‘scraping’ effect that also makes
it a popular ingredient in oil enemas as it breaks up the build- 3
up within the colon and intestines.
“Salt can be used to energetically cleanse and draw moisture
from healing stones that cannot be washed under water and is
also used to cleanse one’s space and body by adding it to a base,
like water,” explains Parakkal. This is why baths with a fistful
of raw salt enjoy an exalted position in wellness practices as
they’re said to remove negativity energy.
A Well-being Staple
As wellness becomes the new currency of luxury, the usage of
salt has become ubiquitous, especially within detox remedies,
1. JO MALONE ‘ Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub’,
“Detoxification is an overused and misunderstood buzzword ₹ 8,200 2. HERBIVORE ‘Calm Soaking Salts’ ₹ 1,634
from the past, to be exact, the spas of the 1990s,” says Colin G 3. AMAN ‘Purifying Auric Cleanse Bath Salts’, ₹8,495

CREATIVE DIRECTION: LAURA GAVRILENKO BURMAN. STYLED BY: SAMAR RAJPUT. MAKEUP AND HAIR:
MANIASHA/FAZE MANAGEMENT. MODEL: SCARLET RAPHAEL/FEAT ARTISTS
SALTY BATH
Colin G Hall recommends
adding two heaped tablespoons
of finely ground salt to a hot
bath and soaking in it for up to
30 minutes. “Soaking in a bath
gives the body time to absorb
the balancing rich minerals
found in the salt”

Out of the Woods

Experience a passage into the healing spirit and strength of sacred woods
through fragrances, notes and memories. By MEHER JADHWANI
ur mind forgets, but the nose remem- ancient burning practice of palo santo, which translates loosely
bers. An expert perfumer knows how to ‘sacred’ or ‘holy’ wood, began with the Incan empire. Initial-
one wears the cloth of memories, not ly used in spiritual practices and folk medicine, 500 years later
perfumes; and that is the beauty of it is still used within South American and Latinx communities
blending fragrance notes. to ward off negative energies. While the wood is sacred, so is
The woods, and their transcending the practice, for it is a mindful process aimed at ensuring the
fragrance, have the unique power to ingredient lasts forever. It embodies long-standing rituals and
be both mysterious and nurturing, cleansing energy. Tom Ford uses ScentTrek®, a process using
challenging and comforting. A walk in the woods is a walk headspace technology that captures the scent of palo santo wood.
between the past and the present, married by a sense of spiritual Instead of obtaining the essence from the wood itself, which is
belonging and connection with nature. Even more so when one an endangered plant, it captures the sillage of the burning wood
is in the presence of ancient woods which reaffirms Tom Ford’s com-
such as palo santo, believed to trig- mitment to sustainability.
ger a meditative state of spiritual Tom Ford leaves the forest The next entry in the collec-
healing. In a world of floral notes, tion—Bois Marocain—evokes the
the woody and earthy scent stand undisturbed, redefining how we earthy notes of the thuya wood and
distinctly apart for extravagant fra- should interact with and of a cultural past where artisans
grance enthusiasts. sculpted with rare and mystical
In November 2022, I attended experience nature. Whether it is materials. The key notes of thuya
the launch of Tom Ford’s private the healing, grounding spirit of wood, cedarwood, and pink pep-
blend range of ‘Enigmatic Woods’ percorn are simple but together
in Marrakech, Morocco. Steeped palo santo or the quiet strength make a complex, layered fragrance.
in mysticism and spirituality just of thuya wood, the fragrance The way Tom Ford has encapsulat-
like the woods fragrance collec- ed cultural experiences in this scent
tion, Morocco made for an inspir- notes are both powerful and makes it one of the most mystical
ing setting to experience the fra- long-lasting, without being creations. Thuya wood is linked to
grance trio of Bois Marocain, a number of legends across cultures.
Ebene Fume and Santal Blush. overwhelmingly intrusive In some, the tree is believed to host
Tom Ford captures the trans- the spirit of an ancient deity who
formative experience of the woods protects her people. No wonder
into a bottle. I’ve always believed that the sense of smell is more then, that as the scent unfurls with the spicy freshness of pink
powerful than we know, or understand. It can lift, calm, invig- peppercorn and atlas cedar, it evokes comfort and strength. It
orate, and evoke romance in a moment, in the subtlest of ways. gives a whiff of energised grandeur, along with a lasting scent:
Each entry into the ‘Enigmatic Woods’ collection celebrates one that transports your soul to a peaceful, cleansed state,
ancient, treasured woods, bringing forth mysteries of centuries grounded in the calmness of memories.
past. Yet, there is a modern magnificence and grandness to this Tom Ford leaves the forest undisturbed, redefining how we
exquisite spiritual experience. The collection pays homage to should interact with and experience nature. Whether it is the
distinctive and precious woods, tied to places of historical and healing, grounding spirit of palo santo or the quiet strength of
cultural significance. thuya wood, the fragrance notes are both powerful and long-last-
Ébène Fumé has top notes of palo santo and pine needles, ing, without being overwhelmingly intrusive. On a personal
heart notes of black pepper and papyrus, along with ebony, rose, note, it’s something I choose for work as it adds the quiet
and citrus at its base. At its heart, it holds the spiritual nature confidence of strength, soft power and calmness to tackle my
of the palo santo tree, also known as the wood of the saints. The day, nose held high.

ENIGMA OF NATURE
Tom Ford launched its private blend
collection ‘Enigmatic Woods’ in
Marrakech. The healing ancient
woods resonate with the ancient
spirit of the Moroccan city. Above:
The writer with Ebru Erkut
CELEBRATION AND CONNECTION 1

Each fragrance in the Tom Ford ‘Enigmatic Woods’ collection comes
with a story of cultural and historical significance inspired by
distinctive, ancient and treasured woods
3
1. TOM FORD ‘Santal
Blush’, price on request
2. TOM FORD ‘Ébène
Fumé’, ₹ 24,700 3. TOM
FORD ‘Bois Marocain’,
2 ₹ 11,300

ALL SMILES
The women students at
the school gather for a
portrait. Opposite page:
A glimpse of a cloth frame
with kantha embroidery

Culture VOGUE
CRAFTING A LEGACY
Situated in the busy lanes of Mumbai’s Byculla, the Chanakya School of
Craft is making some of the most coveted couture found anywhere in the
world. SAMAR RAJPUT walks the halls and investigates the narrative of
needle and cloth. Photographed by TENZING DAKPA
VOGUE Culture
IN SYNC
Women in the atelier
working on ‘The Rising’
artwork featuring badla
embroidery and metallic
threads. Opposite page:
A page from the typical
student coursework
disseminated at the
Chanakya School of Craft

Chanakya’s works include intricately
embroidered 3D pieces made from
recycled scraps and regurgitating
industrial waste as beautifully crafted
pieces for many labels
he first thing you notice when you enter the

Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai are
its pristine white walls, made even more
conspicuous by the vivid Madhubani paint-
ings that hang on them. This folk art form—
which is over 100 years old but feels very
contemporary—serves a greater purpose
than just acting as flourishes of decor. It is
also a reflection of the very values that the school seeks to prop-
agate: cultural sustainability, craft preservation and the empow-
erment of artisans.
The rest of the school is just as striking. Following a mini-
mal colour palette of mostly white and brown, it is both calm-
ing and enchanting in equal measure. In a delightful contrast
to the rest of bustling, cramped Byculla that it is tucked away
in, the premise is punctuated with airy, open spots as well as
sizable enclosed spaces with large glass windows that allow
streaks of daylight to pour in. There are four spacious rooms
here, two of which are classrooms done up in all white. Inside,
a number of students—all women—dexterously sew and stitch
away. “We’ve trained over 780 female students so far,” my host,
the founder of the school, Karishma Swali, tells me. “And we
began with just about 40.”

FRAME BY FRAME
Canvas frames deck the
corridors of the school
where white walls and
women at work are a
routine sight

Culture VOGUE
“My father launched Chanakya
in the 1980s with the vision to
share India’s finest craftsmanship
with the world”
—KARISHMA SWALI
The school was co-founded by Swali and Monica Shah in nerstone of its work ethic whether it is creating intricately em-
2016. But the atelier had been in existence for decades before broidered 3D pieces made from recycled scraps or regurgitating
that. “My father had launched Chanakya in the 1980s with a industrial waste as beautifully crafted pieces for many labels.
vision to share India’s finest craftsmanship with the world,” “We have what we call the Green Capsule and we work on it
says Swali. It began with less than 30 artisans and worked only every season,” Swali tells me. We’ve done it with the likes of
on couture. “Our pieces at the time were all made of pure gold Marcella, Gucci and Moschino.”
and silver threads. They were extremely bespoke and Though headquartered in Mumbai, Chanakya has a small
exclusive.” Gradually, the team began collaborating with team of about 35 in Bologna too. This consists of craftsmen as
various French and Italian fashion houses, an association that well as the archives and the marketing and research departments.
has continued to this day, expanding further to now cover Also in the works is the launch of a textiles museum.
names such as Christian Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Celine and
Fendi, among others.
LEARNERS’ ACADEMY
Today, it produces not more than 10 collections a year. And Swali oversees women students at work, as they
sustainability, recycling and restoration continues to be the cor- imbibe knowledge from an older student

VOGUE Culture
“We’ve trained over 780 female students
so far. And we began with just 40”
—KARISHMA SWALI
TEAM WORK
Women across ages and backgrounds work
together on Indian crafts, keeping them
alive for platforms around the world to
appreciate and acknowledge
Interestingly, back home, most of its Indian workers were introduce some exchange programmes soon. This year, three
initially not formally trained. They were 13th- or 14th-gener- students will get to go to Paris for six months to work at the
ation artisans who had acquired a skill from their ancestors Dior ateliers.
and passed it down further in the family. That’s when Swali As I walk down the hallways of the school, soaking in its
felt the need to institutionalise the system and offer a robust heritage while relishing its handicrafts, I am greeted by women
curriculum that would bolster artists’ talent with a formal ed- across ages and backgrounds, all fuelled by a collective passion
ART DIRECTOR: AISHWARYASHREE. BOOKINGS EDITOR: SAVIO GERHART
ucation in the field. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, Swali’s to keep the magic of Indian arts alive.
long-time mentor, suggested the school be dedicated to wom- During my visit, the skilled women of Chanakya were work-
en in order to make it a level playing field in the outside world. ing on ‘The Rising’, an art piece made especially for Vogue India’s
“Oddly enough, the biggest hurdle we faced at the onset was first Forces of Fashion event, held in November last year. Their
to get women to join,” Swali says. “Even though it was free hands worked together, synchronised motions of threads pass-
and all the materials were provided for, the participation of ing through needles, pricking onto canvas, imprinting a landscape
women was negligible.” Swali partnered with various small-scale of a glorious sun surrounded by nature. The artwork employed
NGOs in the slums, made some necessary amendments (like contemporised versions of traditional needlework techniques
flexible timings) and gradually, the number of students increased. from the zardozi school of embroidery, such as couching and
The curriculum, too, evolved over the years. The courses here bullion, translated onto materials like nakshi, kora and badla to
are all certified by the National Institute of Fashion Technol- create striking, yet delicate imagery.
ogy and the Export Promotion Council of Handicrafts, and It is here, in the hub of a collective community, that crea-
are categorised into basic, intermediate and advanced levels. tivity thrives—a reminder that when collaboration and oppor-
In fact, the school now also offers an array of extra subjects tunity are in sync, beauty can be instigated in everything around
including lessons in entrepreneurship, finance and interper- us. As we conclude our walk where we started, I depart smiling,
sonal skills, to name just a few. The team is even looking to with a sense of pride and contentment.

BLOOM AND GROW

An exquisite piece of
appliqué artistry on
display in a canvas ring

VOGUE Culture
MR. CONVIVIALITY
Goa-based photographer Ali Monis Naqvi trains
his lens on warm congregations of friends and
family, focusing on the discernible feelings of
affection and camaraderie shared between them
Steeped in memory
In the hands of Goa-based photographer Ali Monis Naqvi, simple pictures
come alive with meaning and intention, almost like a soothing antidote to
the fraught times we live in. By SADAF SHAIKH
A FAMILY OF four unwinds on a charpoy on the rooftop of left in search of better work opportunities. “I have grown up
a bricked building in Punjab, a young boy’s arm wrapped affec- seeing people being family to each other in Chamanganj, which
tionately around the shoulder of the girl seated beside him. At is something I really miss seeing in big cities like Mumbai and
a short distance, a man dressed in a pyjama suit stretches lan- Delhi,” he says wistfully. “The idea of people sitting together on
guorously upon awakening, rousing his sleepy muscles from a rooftop, having a meal together during Ramadan or just en-
inertia. Elsewhere, two girls in matching uniforms stand on a gaging in important dialogue is central to society. With the
couple of platforms of varying heights on a terrace in a mes- current political climate in India being the way it is, it’s crucial
merising reproduction of the viral equality meme. Captured for us to express solidarity with each other and play a more
through an assiduous lens that seeks to cast a spotlight on the active part in our communities.”
unseen in our daily lives, it’s evident that the roof is a recurring For his submission to a group exhibition at Sunaparanta
motif in Ali Monis Naqvi’s oeuvre. “Most of my childhood was Goa Centre for the Arts titled Growing Like A Tree: Sent A
enriched by the ancestral knowledge that I gained talking to Letter, on through May, the 27-year-old photographer once
my ammi (grandmother) about nature and wildlife, or garden- again trained his camera on that nostalgic sense of familial
ing with her on our terrace. For me, the rooftop was a special familiarity. Accordingly, Jahan is a tribute to his grandmother
place in our home; it was like a microcosm that encapsulated who passed away in the winter of 2020 due to Covid. “It is in
my broader interests in ecology, politics and wildlife. It ulti- remembering her that I realise that home is neither situated in
mately encouraged me to make photographs,” recalls the Kan- a location nor a physical structure, but in the people who fill up
pur-born photographer who now lives in Goa. those spaces.”
It was perhaps this very predilection for rooftop congrega-
tions that inspired Dastarkhwan, a series of photographs fea-
turing Muslims assembling to break their fast during Ramadan, WE FOUND LOVE
Opposite page: Naqvi shares images from his two series, Ammi
named after the tablecloth on which the evening Iftar feast is and Dastarkhwan, which remind him of the spirit of
laid out. For Naqvi, this is also a visual paean to the home he togetherness he witnessed growing up in Kanpur
Love Unbound
Meena Kandasamy’s translation of Tiruvalluvar’s
treatise on desire is a work of eloquent protest, finds
AVANTIKA SHANKAR
T
he words of celebrated medieval the Chennai-based author talks of “the
poet and philosopher Tiruval- unwavering mind”. Similarly, she forgoes
luvar are inextricably woven into the constraints of the word “woman” for
the fabric of Tamil society. Vers- “womanness”, thereby extracting desire
es from his seminal collection from the limitations of gender. Her Ti-
of couplets, Tirukkural, composed in the rukkural: The Book of Desire is a poignant
first century BCE, continue to be taught piece of activism—a quiet protest against
in schools, painted on government buses, the forces that have adulterated our un-
quoted at wedding celebrations, and derstanding of feminine desire. Still, at
widely discussed on morning television. its heart, just as Tiruvalluvar probably
But when poet, translator and activist intended, Kandasamy hopes for it to be
Meena Kandasamy considered the cir- a celebration of love. “The act of translat-
cuitous thread of sociopolitical events that ing the love poetry of the Tirukkural has
brought Tiruvalluvar’s writings to the reinforced my belief that we need to
present day, she grew disconcerted by the weaponise the words we choose,” she
forces of colonialism and Brahminical writes in her introduction, before guiding
patriarchy that had slowly obscured its her readers through Tiruvalluvar’s tale of
original intent. This is largely true—and two lovers: “I invite you to fall in love.”
especially sinister—in the case of the third
section of the Tirukkural: Inupattupal, or SULTRY DAYS
The Book of Desire. In The Book of Desire (published by
Over the course of a decade, Kandasamy Penguin Random House India),
attempted to produce the text’s first fem- Meena Kandasamy dives into one of
the most important texts in Tamil
inist, interventionist translation. Where literature and gives it a feminist
previous translators speak of “chastity”, translation

VOGUE Culture
Nurture
express understanding and consent miss
out on crucial nuances, a truth which the
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate
the future
Change has recognised in various reports.
Soreng shares a three-pronged ap-
proach to initiating climate action which
includes imbibing and emulating the
Climate activist Archana Soreng speaks indigenous worldview, their ways of living
with ANMOL ARORA about the and their governance systems. The world-
view describes their relationship with the
significance of indigenous influence and forest as akin to both a mother taking
local perspectives in climate action care of them with food, medicine and
shelter, and a child that they are bound
by duty to protect. Another as-
FOR ARCHANA SORENG, pect is the sustainable way of
climate action is intrinsically living, like cleaning with brooms
linked to the participation and made of sticks found in the for-
leadership of indigenous commu- est, or using water bottles made
nities in decision-making pro- of bottle gourd and pumpkin.
cesses locally, nationally and Alongside, Soreng also advocates
globally. The 26-year-old climate for indigenous governance sys-
activist has been a vocal advocate tems, citing the example of the
and representative of the indig- “thenga pali” practice in Odisha,
enous outlook in the internation- where women take turns pa-
al arena, including the Climate trolling the forests with their
Change Conference (COP27) sticks. It all comes down to rec-
that was recently held in Egypt. ognising native rights over land,
“One of the key things for me, in forests and territories. “There is
terms of climate action and en- substantial data which suggests
gaging in these places, is also that the area where indigenous
about reclaiming these spaces,” people live is where the climate,
she says. biodiversity and forests are most
Her relationship and exper- protected,” she asserts.
tise are rooted in her upbringing Soreng also brings her exper-
and tribal heritage in Odisha— tise and advocacy to the UN
her surname ‘Soreng’ translates General Secretary’s Youth Advi-
to ‘rock’ in the Kharia language. sory Group on Climate Change.
She remembers her grandfather It has given her access to world
pioneering community-driven leaders and helped develop sol-
forest protection practices in the idarity with indigenous and
Baliposh village of the Sundar- youth climate activists globally.
garh district, and her father being One of their recent successes was
a native health practitioner who the adoption of the Loss and
would concoct antidotes for engage in these processes, we won’t have Damage Fund for vulnerable
snake bites. The latter was also a college anything to pass on to the next generation countries at COP27, where they advocate
professor who campaigned for The Pro- because a lot of our culture, tradition and for additional finances to cater to com-
visions of the Panchayats (Extension to language is in folklore and songs,” she munities most affected by the impact of the
the Scheduled Areas) Act, and, along with explains. Through her engagement and climate crisis, while minimising their
Soreng’s mother, fought for several trib- association with organisations working responsibility to the countries’ debt burden.
al rights-based issues. Her parents’ com- on sustainable livelihood and protection Soreng wants more indigenous rep-
bined spirit of activism instilled in her “a of indigenous rights, she discovered the resentation and participation in such
staunch belief that if you want to con- commonality of injustices faced by many forums to bring forth all these perspec-
tribute back to society, you have to enter tribal communities, like land grabbing, tives and local contexts. She encourages
policy-making processes.” Her stint as eviction, displacement and loss of culture everyone to engage in fieldwork and un-
ILLUSTRATED BY JACINTH KAUR
student council president at the Tata In- due to extractive development practices. derstand regional worldviews for effective
stitute of Social Sciences further enabled Therein, she found her calling. change. “To young people, particularly
her to create consultation and dialogue “I realised that indigenous people indigenous youth, I’d like to say: embrace
among different groups. should be leaders of climate action and your identity and be proud of yourself
Soreng’s drive to document indige- not victims of climate policies,” posits the because you are unique and are contrib-
nous knowledge systems grew firmer young changemaker. She also opines that uting to the discourse in your own way,”
when her father passed away. “If we don’t policies made without her community’s she signs off.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOMES IN THE WORLD
PHOTO: JIGNESH JHAVERI/AD INDIA
VOGUE Culture

THE RIGHT TO REST
Through a project that captures women in various states of fun and frolic,
SURABHI YADAV makes a case for why female leisure lies at the heart
of feminist liberation. Five image-makers peruse their photographic
oeuvres for Vogue India to present these portraits of quiet pleasure
M
y mother laughed out loud once every year. at 5am on a winter morning, causing spectators to stare in dis-
I am not talking about smiles, giggles belief. In the 23 years that I knew her, it was the only time I
and chuckles—those were common. I saw her swim.
mean a full-fledged, lose-control-of-your- An annual ritual of unrestrained laughing. A once-in-23-
body guffaw. years opportunity to glide through water. What did she do for
It would be on Holi, after the chaos of colour would settle recreation on a regular basis? It pains me to admit that I do not
down. All the aunties and some of us children in Sainath Col- know. I remember my mother always working. It’s hard to
ony in Khargone in Madhya Pradesh would congregate in one picture her not fulfilling an obligation, being herself, being
of the residents’ verandahs to partake in a modest feast of home- at leisure.
made sweets and snacks. It was during this specific period of In fact, I could not imagine any woman outside of her fa-
merrymaking that my mother would get up, unprompted, and milial or social setting, on her own, at ease, lost in her thoughts
launch into a series of raucous role-plays. She would enact mul- or playing without abandon. I didn’t see them growing up. What
tiple characters far removed from her own: a drunk husband, a goes on in the minds of women when they are ‘doing nothing’?
thief, stereotypical in-laws, a lover. She would tease her friends What part of their personality shows up when they are ‘just
about their sexual fantasies. She would rustle their saris, tickle being’? What are women’s identities between ‘superwoman’ and
them, razz them; she would police anyone acting too ladylike. ‘oppressed’ like? I did not know.
Others would join her, making up whole My obsessive inquiry into what wom-
scenes as if we had our own local annu- en like my mother do when they are not
al auntie improv troupe. At its zenith, I could not imagine any working led me to start, Basanti: Women
this drama would make the audience roll At Leisure. I named it Basanti after my
on the floor, holding their tummies in woman outside of her mum, which means spring—a time that
helpless fits of laughter. A shameless hi- familial or social setting, allows for flourishing. I think leisure does
larity that defied reason. exactly that.
The gathering would last a couple of on her own, at ease, lost I started taking photographs and
hours before everyone would return to in her thoughts or playing making videos of women and girls who
their homes. My mother would clean up did not have the privilege of taking out
the aftermath of these Holi celebrations without abandon time for themselves. Doing this for the
in our house and take a bath, almost as past four years, I have felt a world of
if she were physically washing off her unbridled joy open up to me. I have had
alternate personality that loved to be spontaneous, goofy, crea- a front-row seat to women’s unguarded moments. A young
tive and childlike. The woman who had helmed such a lively woman plonked upside down on a tree with her long hair left
gathering would then transform back into my mother—a seri- loose; a mother, who lost her daughter, filling journals with
ous, driven, busy homemaker who handled four kids and a words to process her grief; a mother and daughter chortling
husband and never had time for fun and frolic. excitedly while playing a maths game of their devising; a herd-
Where did this person, who was capable of so much pleas- er sitting by herself in the woods; a group of nuns enjoying the
ure and play, hide the rest of the year? I did not ask this question waves at a beach; a mother sleeping on a bench at Jantar Man-
until my mother died when I was 23. tar with her child by her side; a woman hiding in the arms of
One of the aunties in the neighbourhood described my late her lover in a public garden; a wife enjoying getting her hair
mother as a “fun and goofy” person. Those were not the adjectives dyed with henna by her husband; a group of young women
I would have ever attributed to her when she was alive, so I had grooving to Bhojpuri songs in the dark. The list continues.
to really dig through my memories to find this version of my
mum that others remembered so fondly. That was when these
scenes from Holi came flooding back. Another memory that SLOWING DOWN
Opposite page: A photograph from Farheen Fatima’s ongoing
resurfaced was of her swimming at the Kumbh Mela. My moth- series Meet Me In The Garden perfectly encapsulates the
er, a tall, broad woman draped in a sari, jumped into the river sentiment behind Yadav’s photo project

VOGUE Culture
What are women’s identities

between ‘superwoman’ and
‘oppressed’ like?
BREAKING FREE
In this photo titled ‘Sunbath’ by
Shaheen Peer, Bangladeshi architect
and model Sobia Ameen enjoys a quiet
moment in the sun. Left: A flower
vendor takes a tea break amongst the
vibrant blooms; a team of sportswomen
celebrates after scoring a goal (both
photographs by Rishita Khanna)

Because the value of labour is measured in

economic terms, the labour of caregiving and
managing homes is unpaid, unacknowledged,
underappreciated and unceasing

VOGUE Culture
The more I paid attention to the leisure of the women around Leisure is a portal to know ourselves. And I believe it is this
me, the better I understood how little time they actually had to knowledge, followed by self-acceptance, that lies at the heart of
relax, explore themselves and be idle. For men, being idle is a feminist liberation. Oppressive structures are built on the prem-
choice. A right they earn by virtue of being a breadwinner, or ise of not letting people be themselves and dictating who they
one in the making. For women, especially homemakers, it is an should become by controlling mundane aspects of their lives.
accusation. Because the value of labour is measured in econom- What do we eat? What do we wear? Whom do we love? How
ic terms, the labour of caregiving and managing homes is unpaid, should we look? What makes us worthy? A culture of leisure
unacknowledged, underappreciated and unceasing. For women could be an antidote to these oppressive structures; a state of
like my mother, finding guilt-free time to do nothing is foreign just existing without having to earn the right to exist.
and being idle is equivalent to being worthless. So they work, Leisure is not just a feminist issue, it’s a feminist tool to
constantly. create a new world—first within and then beyond. It wins the
When inequality is discussed, money, property, power and capitalist, patriarchal and casteist battles by declining to fight
rights become key play- them. It is a victory
ers in the conversation. that chooses the power
But rarely do we discuss within instead of the
time and its ownership, power over. It is this
quantity and quality as refusal to fight these
a resource. In reality, the man-made battles that
freedom to have time effectively proves that
and choose what to do they are not worth
with it is tied to our so- fighting because there
cial and economic stand- are more important
ing, which in turn are things to do like cud-
informed by our caste, dling your loved ones,
class, geography and singing songs in a
gender. This project, group, sipping tea
born out of love and a while staring into
longing to know my space, grieving a loss
mother better, soon be- with all your might or
came a quest to explore
appreciating a good
time and leisure as fem- sunset with all your
inist issues. heart.
But there’s more to In practice, our
it: leisure is not just a benchmarks for femi-
function of time but per- nist struggles are not
mission too. Who is al- high enough because
lowed laziness, carefree we are stuck in the sur-
loitering and purposeless vival mode of fighting
visits to the market? Not for land, labour and
women. In rural and money distribution.
peri-urban India, reli- The basic security of
gious norms and rituals physical and financial
play a crucial role in al- safety is essential, but
lowing women to travel, not sufficient. Our
have picnics outside standards for feminism
their homes, dance, sing, should be much high-
let loose, and even be er—something that
hysterical. Religious ac- demands undisturbed
tivities are socially sanc- and unguarded time for
tioned ways to be at women to be them-
leisure even when they are often at the expense of other liberties selves. A lot needs to be rectified in the world for a woman to
for women. be able to sit on a chair on her porch with her feet up on the
What is lost is a chance to truly get to know the women in table, reading a newspaper, sipping her morning tea: enough
our lives, as well as a chance for them to know themselves. time, less labour, less judgment and more mindspace for en-
Leisure magnifies personhood by making those parts of us vis- couraging self-actualisation. I believe guilt-free leisure can
ible that usually lurk behind everyday obligations. Leisure is a truly be a vehicle for our liberation. And I think Basanti herself
chance to daydream, to drift. It is a taste of our vibrant inner would approve.
world, a place to see where free thinking takes us. Where do
we go when we are not expected to be anywhere? It is essential,
not just because of who we become when we are at leisure but PLAYTIME
Image-maker Naveli Choyal captures a woman mid-swing.
also because of its revelation of who we actually are. Everything Opposite page: Women unwind at the beach in Ranjithoudea’s
else is simply a facade of the identities we carry. photo series In Conversation With Kadal - Kadal Inamoratas

Leisure is a chance to daydream, to drift. It is a taste of our

vibrant inner world, a place to see where free thinking takes us.
Where do we go when we are not expected to be anywhere?
VOGUE Culture
IN FULL BLOOM
Sharma has
delivered some of the
most nuanced
performances in
Indian cinema since
making a blink-and-
you-miss-it debut in
her mother Aparna
Sen’s film.
Waistcoat, trousers,
cuffs; all PAYAL
KHANDWALA
Breaking the mould

The firmly reticent Konkona Sen Sharma speaks to
AVANTIKA SHANKAR on working with her mother, digging
deeper into storylines and the future of the film industry
AT A TIME WHEN streaming platforms are constantly trans- was playing the titular character in Dinen Gupta’s Indira, and
forming the way creators create and consumers consume content, Sharma appeared briefly as a small boy. Later, at age nine, she
Konkona Sen Sharma continues to stand as one of the film was cast alongside Shabana Azmi and Farooq Shaikh in Sen’s
industry’s most steadfastly individualistic voices. The actor, who 1989 film Picnic. Since the early 2000s, Sharma has worked
has turned writer, director and producer since starring in the with her mother on films that have set the tone for experimen-
hit coming-of-age comedy drama Wake Up Sid in 2009, had her tal cinema in India, tackling issues like religious contention (Mr.
first outing on screen when she was just four years old. Her and Mrs. Iyer, 2002) and mental illness (15 Park Avenue, 2005)
mother, the National Award-winning filmmaker Aparna Sen, with a sense of nuance and empathy that simply cannot be

formularised. Even as she has carved an iden-
tity of her own, what the 43-year-old mul-
ti-hyphenate continues to share with her
mother is a keen instinct for storytelling. “My
mother helped expand my world so much,”
she recalls. “From a very young age, I would
go with her to movie sets, the editorial office
of the women’s magazine that she ran, or film
festivals in Moscow and Cairo… I got so much
experience from being exposed to that world.”
Sharma most recently collaborated with
her mother on The Rapist, which premiered
at the Busan International Film Festival in
2021. In it, she plays protagonist Naina Ma-
lik, a professor of criminal psychology who is
sexually assaulted and must fight societal
prejudices in her quest for justice. Like all of
Sen’s projects, the conceptualisation of the
film began with a question: “Are rapists born,
or are they created by society?” To find the
answer—or at least attempt to—Sen spoke
to friends with experience in the field of social
justice, specifically feminist scholars and ac-
tivists. One worked with a group that ad-
dressed abuse against South Asian women,
another worked with a women’s shelter, a third
worked with criminals in prison. “If you’re
taking on a subject like this, you want to re-
ally do it justice, and look at it from all angles,”
admits Sharma. “We were a little wary about
any potential pushback—even the name was
something we deliberated upon, because it
might be seen as too provocative. But I knew
I was in very good hands because I knew my
mother was doing detailed, intense and fo-
cused research.”
Sharma and Sen’s brand of truth-to-pow-
er filmmaking— which was arguably ahead
of its time in the early 2000s—has now be-
come far more palatable to mainstream Indi-
an audiences, thanks to the content-first
programming of digital streaming platforms.
PHOTOS: GOURAB GANGULI. STYLING: DAMINI DAS. HAIR AND MAKEUP: SAKIL KUNWAR
“What I really appreciate is that everyone has work,” she explains. don’t have enough women in positions of power. A lot of the
“It has granted opportunities to a lot of technicians and actors money actually comes from older men, who dictate a lot of
who may not have otherwise gotten mainstream recognition. choices based on what they think people want to watch, which
We get to see so much talent in various spheres—technical or I don’t think is the best way to go about things.”
otherwise—and that’s wonderful.” Sharma singles out Shaunak For her part, Sharma is focused on the stories that main-
Sen’s 2022 documentary, All That Breathes, as a particularly stream cinema has long neglected. As witnessed in her 2016
evocative depiction of the ecological devastation in New Delhi. directorial debut A Death in the Gunj, she has a keen interest in
“I don’t think that filmmakers should have any kind of respon- issues of power—especially the sort of insidious power hierar-
sibility to fix things,” she muses. “A film that is politically and chies and structures we participate in upholding out of habit,
socially aware often has a lot more depth and nuance to it. Even or simply because we don’t know better. “I am interested in
if a film is not overtly political, if I understand the depths of telling the untold story,” she adds on a final note. “There is such
the characters because of the way they are written and execut- a huge discrepancy between our lived experiences and what is
ed, that can be very powerful.” depicted on screen. There is no one way to be a woman or lead
Witnessed through Sharma’s eyes, the industry appears to a successful life, and that needs to be seen much more.”
be heading in a positive direction—one where audiences are
more demanding of the content they consume, and creators are
consequently allowed more room to experiment. The filmmak-
COMMITTED TO HER CRAFT
er is cautiously optimistic about the role women will play in the One of Sharma’s primary goals as an actor, writer,
years to come. “We probably have more women working in the director and producer has been to bring the truth-to-
industry now than we did earlier,” she expresses, “but we still power brand of movies to mainstream audiences in India

All About
Avanti
The first Indian model in history to open the Versace runway, beating
out the likes of Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski, Avanti Nagrath
makes her Vogue India cover debut. DIVYA BALA meets the girl of
the moment blazing a trail through the international fashion scene.
Photographed by NICK SETHI. Styled by MEGHA KAPOOR

ROCK SOLID
After a dream debut on the
international runway in
Milan, Nagrath is on a firm
path to global success.
Dress, SUPRIYA LELE
(A/W 2022-23). Shoes,
NAPPA DORI


“It still feels like a dream... There were so many models around, it was Bella
[Hadid]. It was Gigi [Hadid], and I’m the one opening the show?” Nagrath
recalls. “I told myself, ‘You can get intimidated by the big names, but just do
what you do best and forget whatever else is around you.’ And because I was
the first girl out, I was like, ‘If I don’t go out, the whole show is going to stop.’
So the second they said, ‘Go!’ I put blinders on and walked”
P
icture this: you’re a model from know with your hip out, and your hand on your
Delhi in Milan for the first time, hip,” she says, with a laugh. “And then at 14, my
fresh out of your teens. You’re mum and I were sitting together and she asked,
somewhere in the sprawling, ‘Why don’t you try modelling?’ I had always loved
sumptuous headquarters of Ver- [modelling] and looked up to models like Bella
sace, perhaps feeling a little out of your depth. Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski and Naomi Campbell,
You’ve made it through a room full of 70 other so I thought, why not? I took a few pictures and
hopeful models and been approved by five gate- put it on social media and then a few agencies
keepers of one of fashion’s most storied luxury approached me.”
houses to be booked for your first international With the support of her mother, Nagrath start-
runway. A living legend—in this case, Donatella ed modelling at 15, between classes at the Modern
Versace—is overseeing your fitting, ensuring the School Barakhamba and extracurricular duties as
precision tailoring of the sharply-cut black suit an avid basketballer. (Nagrath was captain before
you are wearing lives up to the Versace standard. handing over her captaincy to a teammate due to
Suddenly, she flicks back her curtain of flaxen hair the growing demands of her modelling career. A
toThis
lookPDF
at you and, in her gravely Italian drawl says, movie moment saw her wave the flag at her school
was uploade To Teligram channel_ LBS Newspaper platform (https://t.me/LBSNEWSPAPER) @LBSNEWSPAPER
“Do you know you’re opening the show?” sports day before swapping her basketball shorts
It’s the kind of fairy-tale story that model and sneakers to walk in one of Tarun Tahiliani’s
dreams are made of, one that is Avanti Nagrath’s saris at his show at Lakme Fashion Week.) She
reality. However, the 20-year-old has trouble be- has also worked with the likes of Rahul Mishra,
lieving it, even almost a year on. It was then that Manish Malhotra, Lovebirds and Pankaj & Nidhi,
she burst onto the international fashion scene, garnering attention for her appearances at 2019’s
opening the Versace autumn/winter 2022-23 show FDCI-organised Fashion Week in Delhi.
at Milan Fashion Week on 25 February. “I learnt a lot in India,” explains Nagrath.
“It still feels like a dream when I think about “I met so many designers and people in the indus-
it—even while I was walking the show it felt like try. I figured out how the industry works, how a
a dream. There were so many models around, it runway show is. My vision was that I always want-
was Bella [Hadid]. It was Gigi [Hadid], and I’m ed to be an Indian model representing India out-
the one opening the show?” Nagrath recalls, speak- side. I have that ambition of wanting to do some-
ing from her home in Delhi, where she is taking thing big.”
a break before returning to the circuit in January. Upon graduating in 2020, Nagrath was anxious
“I told myself, ‘You can get intimidated by the big to go abroad to economics school and continue
names, but just do what you do best and forget modelling, however, Covid and a vaccination mis-
whatever else is around you.’ And because I was hap would more or less ground her until January
the first girl out, I was like, ‘If I don’t go out, the 2022 when she was able to restart conversations
whole show is going to stop.’ So the second they with her agents. She then flew to Europe and
said, ‘Go!’ I put blinders on and walked.” promptly booked the aforementioned Versace show.
Born and bred in Delhi, growing up with her For autumn/winter 2022, she would go on to walk
parents, her younger brother and her grandmoth- for Bottega Veneta in Milan, The Row, Coperni
er, Nagrath was a self-confessed “outdoor kid”, a and Givenchy in Paris. Since then, she has also
tomboy who enjoyed nothing more than playing worked for Burberry, 1017 ALYX 9SM, Jacquemus,
sports. And when she wasn’t on the basketball Chanel, Ferragamo, Courrèges, Hermès and Ralph
TRUNK CALL
court, she was perpetually in front of the camera. Lauren, as well as the Alaïa Summer 2023 look- Lofty goals and an
“My mum tells me that even when I was a kid, book, the Proenza Schouler White Label campaign aerodynamic bodysuit:
I loved taking photos. If there was a camera in and the Versace autumn/winter 2022-23 campaign. Nagrath is poised to
go the distance.
front of me, I would pose for it. I still have pictures I ask Nagrath what she thinks it might be about Catsuit, BLONI. Shoes,
of myself doing the typical Bollywood pose—you her that have endeared her so instantly to the ech- LOUIS VUITTON


STRING THEORY
In sunburnt marigold
orange and henna red,
Nagrath invokes the ties
that bind her to her roots.
Top, bralette, skirt; all
SUPRIYA LELE
(S/S 2020)

ALL IN FAVOUR
With a little collar action,
the odds could never be
stacked against you.
Shirt, SUPRIYA LELE
(A/W 2021-22). Trousers,
DHRUV KAPOOR



FIELD OF GOLD
Regal purple on your
back, humility on
your mind—just two
hallmarks of true
eminence. Dress,
SUPRIYA LELE


STARE CASE
With her racy-meets-
tomboy style, Nagrath
has all the right
angles—and her eye
squarely on the ball.
Top, LOUIS VUITTON


HAIR AND MAKEUP: MITESH RAJANI/FEAT ARTISTS. ART DIRECTION: AISHWARYASHREE. PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: PAIGE
elons of high fashion (besides her razor-sharp have this one brand called Esse Studios which I SPRING FLING
Nothing like a bold
angles, glossy black hair, feline nose and pillowy really love. I have a Siddartha Tytler skirt with me combination of saturated
LABUDA. ASSISTANT STYLIST: RUPANGI GROVER. BOOKINGS EDITOR: SAVIO GERHART. PRODUCTION: P PRODUCTIONS
lips, of course). She politely demurs: “I don’t look which is really cool. I love Atsu, I love UpToNo- blues and yellows to
at it that way. I just feel like this is something I Good. There are so many brands coming up in celebrate prime temps.
love doing, and for me, what’s important is how India and I really want to work with them and see Dress, SUPRIYA LELE
(S/S 2021)
you are as a person. No matter what you do, you what they have because it’s just nice to take them
always have to be humble and grounded, no mat- abroad with me and then have [the people I work
ter how much you achieve.” with] see that there’s so much potential in the
When it comes to her off-duty style, a quick Indian industry in terms of fashion. So my goal,
scroll through her Instagram reveals an aesthetic in a wardrobe sense, is to explore the Indian mar-
where racy meets tomboy: printed cargos with short ket and start building my wardrobe.”
tank tops, leather trousers with cropped shirts, For her Vogue India shoot, Nagrath posed in a
baggy hoodies and ripped jeans amidst a strong kaleidoscope of colours around Bandra in Mum-
smattering of saris. While she has begun her col- bai, having flown in for the day from London on
lection of luxury bags (the first bag she ever bought her way to Delhi, a location that brought her fond
for herself was a Louis Vuitton), her footwear memories from her early days modelling in Max-
obsession is singular. “I love wearing Jordans the imum City and how far she has come.
most—I love any Nike sneakers. Whenever I’m “It felt unreal to do the cover for Vogue be-
working I’m in sneakers, in case people are like, cause, again, that was something I always want-
‘You’re too tall!’ So I rarely wear heels.” ed to do. I have a collection of Vogue magazines
“I think I’m still figuring out what my actual in my room. [The idea] that I’m going to buy one
style is. It really depends on the way I’m feeling which has me on the cover and put it over there
on a particular day,” she explains. “I like to wear [with the others] is just crazy. And the fact that
streetwear quite often. In Paris, I need to look chic, my first [magazine] cover is going to be Vogue
so I’ll wear tight jeans with a nice blazer and boots. India is a big deal.” Nagrath pauses. “I always tell
I just love being natural, I don’t like to overdo it my agents that I want to start from home. If I do
with my dressing. In terms of clothes, I like to something abroad, I want to come back and be
experiment with up-and-coming brands and In- an inspiration for the people at home. So it’s a
dian labels. I love going vintage shopping too. I huge deal for me.”

Daydream
Believer
Diaphanous tiers, cascades of silk, mirror-ball
minis—when it comes to dusk-to-dawn
dressing, let your imagination be your guide.
Photographed by RENELL MEDRANO
Styled by STELLA GREENSPAN

RUFF AND TUMBLE

Relaxation riffs on the
romantic, thanks to the
Elizabethan accoutrements
of Gucci’s minidress.
Chiffon minidress with
poplin collar, tulle neck ruff
and tulle lingerie; all
GUCCI. Earrings
(throughout), model’s own

ACTIVATE
PORTRAIT MODE
Strike your most
magnetic pose in
Alexander McQueen’s
brushstroke-print
gown. Faille gown,
ALEXANDER McQUEEN

LADY IN RED
Turn up the heat
in Chloé’s ravishing
off-the-shoulder
number. Silk
midi-dress, CHLOÉ


SITTING PRETTY
You’d better be seated
when surveying Paco
Rabanne’s candyfloss-
pink paillettes. Jersey
top, sequined miniskirt,
sequined peplum belt; all
PACO RABANNE.
Patent-leather shoes,
BALENCIAGA

HAIR: EVANIE FRAUSTO. MAKEUP: MARCELO GUTIERREZ. SET DESIGN: LAUREN NIKROOZ. PRODUCTION: CARINA MAK.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: PICTURE HOUSE & THE SMALL DARKROOM. MODEL: ANOK YAI
PYRAMID SCHEME
Triangulating your
location. Prada’s signature
graphic motif forms a
clinking chain-mail slip
that will light up any
room. Slip dress, cotton
tank dress; both PRADA

READY FOR BED
Bedroom or dance
floor, this Formula
1-inspired gown from
Chanel takes pole position.
Silk dress, CHANEL

The summer state of mind? Bright silks,
brighter jewels, and monogrammed luxury
stamped across your swim kit. The sartorial
icons of the subcontinent are ushering in a new
wave of beach style. Photographed by JAMES
TOLICH. Styled by MEGHA KAPOOR
ON BRAND
Beach gear with
monograms gets our
stamp of approval this
swim season. On
Lauren Stevenson and
Taara McLaren:
Swimsuits, LOUIS
VUITTON. Earrings,
RANIWALA 1881


IN MOTION
Sign us up for offline
moments to frolic on sandy
beaches and beyond. Bikini
top, pareo; both TIZZI. Sari,
RAW MANGO. Necklace
(worn on waist),
RANIWALA 1881

SEEING RED
A fiery red is a sure shot
way to stand out in an
expanse of blue.
Sari, RAW MANGO.
Beret, GUCCI. Heels,
VERSACE

DEEP SEA TREASURES

Where to find your new
beach accents? Just
deep-dive into your
heirloom jewellery box.
Sari, RAW MANGO.
Necklace, RANIWALA 1881

ULTRAVIOLET
Electric hues and an
electric attitude will
always go hand in hand.
Sari, RAW MANGO.
Earrings, bangles; all
RANIWALA 1881.
Sunglasses, DIOR

HANDS ON
Smooth silks and string
bikinis—the remedy to
help you let your hair
down. Bikini top, DIOR.
Sari, RAW MANGO.
Earrings, tikka; both
RANIWALA 1881

GAME, SET, MATCH

Warm up and flex your
sporty side in a swim set,
and you've already won the
game. Swimsuit, pareo,
sunglasses, necklace, bag,
sandals; all CHANEL

HAIR: TAYLOR JAMES REDMAN. MAKEUP: FILOMENA NATOLI. FASHION ASSISTANTS: YAEL
SHWARTS, LIAT SCHWARTZ. LOCATION: DESTINATION NEW SOUTH WALES
SETTING SAIL
Cruise through the seas and
show off that summer glow
with a compact white dress
and crossbody pouch.
Dress, bag; both CHANEL.
Earrings, RANIWALA 1881

GILDED GRIP
Meet the new nautical bag
to carry on your arm in
an unusually glittery shade
of gold. Dress, bag; both
PRADA. Necklace,
RANIWALA 1881

GLASS HALF-FULL
Practise your positive
affirmations before a one-
to-one in Martine Rose
tailoring and a means-business
tie. Cotton coat, satin shirt;
both MARTINE ROSE.
Tie, TWEEDMANS
COOLING EFFECT
Forget blowing hot and
cold —for fluster-free form,
invest in Bottega Veneta’s
razor-sharp silhouettes.
Opposite page: Wool coat, satin
dress; both BOTTEGA
VENETA. Spandex shoes,
hoop earrings (throughout);
both BALENCIAGA

WORK
FORCE
The secrets of success this season?

Confidence, precision, flashes of brilliance
—and a wardrobe to back it up.
Photographed by CRAIG McDEAN
Styled by KATE PHELAN

PROVING YOUR METTLE

Take it to the board:
Stella McCartney’s
cape and Jimmy Choo’s
golden boots should be
shown off in person.
Regenerated-wool cape,
STELLA McCARTNEY.
Cotton body, WOLFORD.
Coated-jersey skirt,
CHRISTOPHER
KANE. Leather boots,
JIMMY CHOO

POWER HOUR
Water-cooler conversation
will centre on your outfit
when colleagues get
wind of your cinched jacket
from Dolce & Gabbana.
Jacquard jacket, satin blouse;
both DOLCE & GABBANA.
Vinyl skirt, NO 21
BY ALESSANDRO
DELL’ACQUA. Leather
shoes, GIANVITO ROSSI

THIS MEANS BUSINESS
Balenciaga’s pussybow
blouse and pumps
get inflated—like your
pre-keynote speech ego.
Jacquard blouse, embossed
leather skirt, spandex
shoes, leather clutch; all
BALENCIAGA

CLASSICAL
CONDITIONING
Raise your confidence
in Giorgio Armani’s
effortlessly classic suiting.
Lurex tweed jacket,
GIORGIO ARMANI.
Silk blouse, LILY SILK.
Vinyl skirt, NO 21 BY
ALESSANDRO
DELL’ACQUA

YIN & YANG

Your morning meeting
gets a fanciful greeting.
Say hello to the surrealist
shape of Gucci’s two-tone
suit. Cotton-canvas
cape jacket, silk blouse,
cotton-canvas midiskirt;
all GUCCI. Rollneck
body, WOLFORD

FIRST CHAIR
Style that sits up!
There’s no mid-afternoon
slump when you’re
sporting Prada Mary-Janes
and Dior’s timeless
trench. Cotton trench
coat, DIOR. Silk blouse,
LILY SILK. Leather
shoes, PRADA. Rollneck
body, WOLFORD

HAIR: EUGENE SOULEIMAN. MAKEUP: VAL GARLAND. NAILS: CHISATO YAMAMOTO. SET DESIGN: PIERS HANMER.
PRODUCTION: NORTH SIX. DIGITAL ARTWORK: GLOSS STUDIO. MODEL: MONA TOUGAARD
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Manifest roar-some
ideas with Givenchy’s
leopard-print blouse
and pencil skirt.
Silk blouse, leather skirt;
both GIVENCHY. Leather
shoes, JIMMY CHOO

EASY-BREEZY
Take flexible working
up a gear with the
fluidity of Loewe’s
knotted dress.
Laminated-jersey dress,
LOEWE. Rollneck
body, WOLFORD.
Shoes, BALENCIAGA

1
HORO TAURUS
If the Spirit could give you some advice right now, it would be to honour
SCOPE your sacred self. To make time for self-care rituals and to prioritise your
EARTH
relationship with yourself. If it brings you joy, take it as an affirmation that
you’re on the right track. As such, you’ll find that the gates of mystery are
being opened for you this year. If you feel drawn to the divine arts, delve
deeper into the world of esoterica.
CAPRICORN VIRGO
There will always be more to do, Capricorn. When are you going to take Put that to-do list aside for a second and, with it, that Manifestation Jour-
care of yourself ? The start of the year is bringing with it the reminder that nal. Now is not the time to be in yang mode or make promises to yourself
it’s okay for you to do you. It’s okay to take a break. It’s okay to pore over that will only increase your stress level by 100. It is the time to ignore the
your favourite book. It’s okay to end your day earlier so you can go motivational juju on your feed, turn your gaze inwards and focus on filling
to someplace beautiful and watch the sunset. Prioritise peace over your own cup. It’s time to visualise a new world into being. You’ll know
everything else. when it’s time to act on your intentions.
Top left: ‘Hands of God’by YASHNA KAUL

1. ‘GG Half-Moon-Shaped Mini Bag’, GUCCI, price on request 2. ‘Fair Trade Woven Hat’, CHLOÉ, ₹42,196

1
HORO PISCES
SCOPE Maybe the journey isn’t about becoming somebody. Maybe it’s about be-
coming nobody; experiencing what the Zen Buddhists call ‘nothingness’.
WATER
This month, you’re being asked to move beyond the ego space and to free
yourself from all that is false—within and without. Something tells us you’re
being prepared for the greatest transformation of your life.
SCORPIO
CANCER It doesn’t matter what people say or don’t say about you. Their perception
You don’t need a special technique or tool. All you have to do is breathe, be of you matters little. The only thing that’s truly important is how you feel
here, be now. Witness the breath as it moves through your body and let the about the journey you have embarked upon. This month, you’re being called
intrusive thoughts go, one by one. Remember, you don’t have to label your to move beyond the conditioned mind and listen to your inner compass.
emotions or attach stories to them. By transcending the oscillation of the By shedding the weight of other people’s expectations, you will find
TEXT: ZOHRA SHAKTI
mind, you will find true freedom. true freedom.
Top right: Photograph by RANJITH KUMAR

1. ‘Kinsey 95’, JIMMY CHOO, ₹1,05,411 2. Necklace, CHANEL, price on request

1
2
HORO GEMINI
SCOPE It’s not about ‘the other’, Gemini. It’s about what they are awakening with-
in you. The triggers have a story to tell, and those triggers are bringing you
AIR
attention to all that is yearning to be witnessed within. Don’t be afraid to
journey to the underworld. Shadow-work is going to be an important theme
for you at the beginning of the year.
LIBRA
You don’t need anybody’s permission to shine, to show up as the most AQUARIUS
radiant version of yourself. It’s time to take that cloak of invisibility off and Sometimes, in order to make space for what we truly want, we have to let
claim your spot, centre-stage. It’s time to redefine the rules, to inspire change go of what isn’t in alignment. This month, you’re being asked to declutter
and to remind the world that it is our uniqueness that makes us special. your life. To cleanse and purge the old stories along with the idea of who
You came here for a reason, and you’re being called to remember your you are supposed to be. Know that you are not alone. The Spirit is holding
sacred purpose. space for you to redirect the chariot of your life.
Top left: ‘Thinking Of A Place’ by RAGHAV GOSWAMY

1. ‘Loop Earrings’, BALENCIAGA, ₹40,989 2. ‘Lumi Necklace’, JENNIFER BEHR, ₹ 43,473

1
HORO SAGITTARIUS
SCOPE If you’re feeling like your most creative self, it’s for a reason. This month,
you’re encouraged to honour your inner artist. To paint the canvas of your
FIRE
life in the way that feels authentic. You were sent here to make a difference.
By releasing the idea of perfection and other people’s expectations, you will
be able to find freedom in its truest form.
ARIES LEO
What crashes, crashes and what flows, flows. Such is the order of life in If you’re yearning for some one-on-one time with Mamma Gaia, run into
the earthly realm. This year, you’re being encouraged to honour the cycles the wilderness this month. Find a campsite that you feel a connection with
by letting go with gratitude and grace those things which have served or head to an eco resort for some R&R. Remember, spending time in nature
their purpose. Things are happening for and not to you. It’s time to open is the best way to clear your mind and balance the elements within.
your heart again. The Spirit is reminding you that it’s safe for you to let PS: working with plants and herbs is another way to incorporate earth
TEXT: ZOHRA SHAKTI
love in. magic into your everyday life.
Top left: ‘Identity’ by PRIYSHA RAJVANSHI

1. ‘Polka-Dot Cashmere Jumper’ EXTREME CASHMERE, ₹1,15,720 2. ‘Polka Dot Wallet’, COMME DES GARÇONS, ₹9,353

REVEL IN PANACHE FRAGRANCE
Bombay Selections has skilfully crafted
exquisite designs and workmanship into
THAT
their products using their expertise and COMMANDS
finesse. In addition to offering an enormous ATTENTION
assortment for prospective brides, they also The new Parfum by BOSS, co-
have a tonne of options for bridesmaids created by Annick Ménardo
and family members as well. With a and Suzy Le Helley, takes the
broad selection of over 2500 patterns renowned BOSS family to the
and styles for women, Bombay Selections next level with the greatest
offers a diverse spectrum of ethnic and concentration ever. A noble
wedding wear collections in magnificent centre of rare orris concrete and
colours, textures, and innovative, atypical fig tree root harmony follows a
shapes. You can find glamorous sarees, top note blend of zesty tangerine
lehengas, ready-to-wear suits and and spicy incense oils. A vegetal
trousseau collections at Bombay Selection. leather concord and a woody
Everything from classic Indian wear to the base note of cedarwood essence give the long-lasting finish on the skin its
trendiest contemporary designs can be distinctive warmth. With the recognisable BOSS bottled falcon this scent
found in their collection. is meant for dominance. The moment has arrived to be your own BOSS, a
For more information, follow powerful scent for every individual.
@bombay_selections on Instagram For more information, visit Parcos.com/boss-bottled-parfum
VOGUE
This month, we bring you the best in luxury and fashion

INSPIRED BY OLD-WORLD
CLASSICS
The modern woman, who is continuously changing and looking for
traditional, timeless jewellery, is drawn to Aurus’s jewellery that is neither
overly complex or driven by trend. The brand is all about jewels that bring
in the relic energy with a dash of contemporary style. Aurus is redefining
luxury via timelessly beautiful, handcrafted jewellery that employs a pop
of colour, finely balanced design, mixed with unmistakably Indian patterns.
For more information, visit Aurusjewels.com
THE À LA MODE CREATIONS

CHRONOGRAPH INFUSED WITH Who wouldn’t choose attire with elaborate details and individualised
care when it comes to boosting one’s confidence to the moon?
ROMAN SYMBOLISM Camla Barcelona has earned the trust of fashion-forward individuals
The Serpenti Spiga Ceramic is a double-spiral watch with an 18 by tailoring its products to the demands of modern day western
karat rose gold bezel and components studded with diamonds clothing. A sophisticated, contemporary sense of style is portrayed in
blends the modern with the ancient by fusing the audacity of both men’s and women’s en-vogue collections. The brand is among
Serpenti with the legend of Spiga, the Italian term for ‘spike.’ This the most coveted by fashion aficionados thanks to its flawless fit and
chronograph evokes the notion of infinity with its abstract pattern. workmanship that can be seen in every piece. From comfortable yet
This masterpiece combines Bulgari’s timepiece expertise with its fine stylish winter wear to glam fits like printed dresses and tops—you can
jewels craftsmanship. find some gorgeous pieces at Camla.
For more information, visit Bulgari.com/en-in For more information, visit Glamly.com
128  , - 
A MARVEL OF
HOROLOGY
Breguet shines global emphasis on two
brand-new timepieces, the Reine de
Naples 9835 and 9838, which display
two distinct designs but have a similar
feature: a minute hand that changes
shape as it travels around the dial.
These two new models’ dials include
a flexible minute hand that is both
admirable and fascinating. It can morph
into a different shape depending on
where it is on the oblong dial thanks to DON’T SKIP ON WHAT’S
the magic of an ingenious mechanism.
For more information, IMPORTANT!
visit Breguet.com Fast&Up has successfully harnessed the power of health
by creating a range of effective nutritional supplements. As
an addition to its products, the company launched its Daily
AN ODE TO THE Protein, which offers 15g of protein along with additional
vitamins and herbs to ensure that our body’s requirements
MODERN WOMEN’S for protein are met while simultaneously providing a much-
SPIRIT needed energy boost. This Daily Protein is not only great
As women, we take up so many roles for staying toned and managing weight, but it also helps
that we can’t keep track of them all. preserve muscle strength due to its plant-based protein
Madame - Be Everyone U R, the and probiotics aiding intestinal health. Furthermore,
brand was established on the premise Fast&Up makes sure to provide Indians with premium and
that every woman has a variety of scrumptious protein sourced from the United States while
roles to perform. The brand makes staying true to their commitment of delivering only high
apparel that gives you the confidence quality nutrition. The brand aims to significantly improve
to be yourself while celebrating the your overall wellbeing.
unrelenting pursuit of the feminine spirit For more information, visit Fastandup.in
and
This PDF was uploade To Teligram the uniqueness
channel_ of all women.
LBS Newspaper They (https://t.me/LBSNEWSPAPER) @LBSNEWSPAPER
platform
believe in empowering, elevating, and
supporting women through wonderfully
created pieces that help you overcome
the world.
For more information, visit Glamly.com
INDULGE IN A EUROPEAN FEAST

Let’s raise a toast to the Emperor as we usher in Julius, a contemporary interpretation
of the royal feasts from 49 BC to 44 BC. It takes you on a gastronomic tour across
the Mediterranean basin of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Sicily, Greece, Regional
France, South Germany, and Turkey. The cuisine is sophisticated, flavorful, hearty,
and rustic. The Golden Egg, Quail Galantine, Jambon de Paris, Broccoli and Blue
Cheese Foam are among the specialties. Julius, a heartfelt creation, revives a time
when meals were savoured leisurely and became treasured memories.
2nd Floor, Phoenix Palladium, Mumbai
For more information, call +91 88288 23987
AN ECCENTRIC STYLE TOUR

The creators, Nitai Mehta and Sumangali Gada, have a
passion for design, travel, culture, and all things beautiful.
And, this enthusiasm has culminated into the brand—
Forest of Chintz. The latest collection from the brand,
‘FC in the City,’ takes us from Edinburgh Tartans to
Tokyo Gaga. From Colaba Woods during the monsoons
to the 1930s New York Razzmatazz. It is a global collection
honouring cities where art and style converge. The brand
crafts dramatic jewellery, purses, and accessories.
For more information, visit Forestofchintz.com,
call +91 9920596050 or follow @forestofchintz on
Instagram
EXPLORE THE REALM
THE ETERNAL OF CLEANING
CRAFT CARE
As we all know, the Rajputana Pressto is committed to excellence
courts used the centuries-old and unyielding standards of
Polki technique for creating quality and safety as the industry
exquisite jewellery by hand from pioneer in the care of garments
uncut diamonds during the and accessories. They are here to
Mughal era. And, even today, provide you top-notch services and
this meticulous crafting technique handle each item you bring in using
is still practised. At Tyaani, it is all state-of-the-art equipment and
about breathtaking bridal Polki meticulous procedures managed by
jewellery. You can now discover professionals and trained staff. The
traditional Indian jewellery that brand handles your possessions as if
was influenced by the illustrious they were their own, which enables
lineage of Mr. Karan Johar’s persona. Each striking design at Tyaani is them to provide the outstanding
meticulously crafted with the finest Syndicate Polki and 22KT or 18KT gold care that your valuables deserve.
inlaid with precious gemstones. Experience their flagship stores in Mumbai, For the price of 5, get 6 Pressto-ed outfits! Offer valid from January 1 to
Delhi, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad. February 28, 2023.
For more information, visit Tyaani.com For more details, visit Presstoindia.com or call +91 9167188355
VOGUE
DIARY
FOR THE QUIRKY DRESSER

Onitsuka Tiger offers you its unique assortment for irrepressible spirits.
The WS P Blouson women’s jacket has a modern rock star spin on a bit
of a gothic and feminine look. The thermolite fabric is used in this padded
blouson, making it lightweight and comfortable. The unisex Mexico 66
heritage shoe by Onitsuka Tiger draws design cues from vintage running
shoes to create a throwback ‘60s aesthetic that is absolutely modern.
For more information, visit Onitsukatiger.com/in/en-in
DESIGNING YOUR STEPS

EXPERIENCE THE GOODNESS OF For all footwear necessities, Venus Steps is the name that fashionistas
AYURVEDA around the globe vouch for! The brand, which already produces top-notch
With a history spanning more than 20 years, Shankara is the clear footwear and unparalleled accessories, has recently introduced men’s
choice for individuals seeking a natural and chemical-free skincare footwear. All the hype around the new collection appears to be warranted
alternative. These products are produced by meditation practitioners as it gains the confidence of the fashion-forward tribe. The new collection
utilising only natural substances and conventional ayurvedic methods. reflects the brand’s love for shoes, their devotion to the craft of footwear,
With their innovative, all-natural line of professional and retail and their desire to support footwear aficionados worldwide. The brand is
products for the face and body, Shankara offers a unique experience confident in the limitless potential of their artists and with its new dawn,
of nutrition, oxygenation, hydration, and protection. Venus Step has a lot planned.
For more information, visit Shankara.in For more information, visit Venussteps.com
130  , - 
EMBRACING
SUPERIOR
HAIR HUES
With our fast-paced
lives, it only makes sense
to opt for hairstyles that
also double as hair-care.
Effective hair colouring
requires superior gloss,
alluring hair styling, and top-tier aftercare. Colour Specialist—the first-
ever DIY at home kit from Schwarzkopf—is available in 8 brilliant colours
and is powered by omegaplex, anti-breakage technology, and deep
hydration of hyaluronic acid, leaving no room for monotony and greys
but only smooth and silky hair. With Schwarzkopf, experience the high-
end hair colouring care that your hair deserves.
For more information, follow @schwarzkopf_athome on Instagram
SHINE BRIGHTER ANALOGUE THAT’S

EVERYDAY BEYOND-CLASSIC
Michael Kors’ exquisitely crafted Emery for Women is the
Jewellery shouldn’t merely be kept in a cabinet
pinnacle of timepieces. This variation is a contemporary
for special occasions; it should be worn, shown,
reinterpretation of the traditional square shape and has
and cherished every day and in every way. When
a 40mm face with a classic bedazzled dial. The watch
you wear Shea Luxe jewellery, every occasion
stands out as a skillfully picked accessory to match the
is elevated to a momentous event. Diamond
tailored sensibility of your ensembles. It has a gilded
jewellery has been coveted for decades by
bracelet with a novel interlaced design. The elegant use
both men and women as a sign of love, luxury,
of seamless gold tones and artistic bedazzling make it
and elegance. The highlight of Shea Luxe’s
the ideal choice for enhancing your personal aesthetic,
collection is avant-garde, distinctive statement
regardless of the occasion.
jewellery for glam and cocktail celebrations,
Available at select online and offline stores
which has channel_
This PDF was uploade To Teligram led to explorations with mixed
LBS Newspaper metals (https://t.me/LBSNEWSPAPER) @LBSNEWSPAPER
platform
and coloured stones. Shea Luxe’s distinctive
collections are designed in India, where CEO
Bhavya and his top staff put in endless hours to
produce gorgeous pieces.
For more information, visit Shealuxejewels.com
or call +91 767 767 0767
FINDING
YOUR
PERFECT
INTIMATE FIT
“Lingerie is empowering
and sets the tone for your
day,” asserts Kamakshi
Agarwala, the founder of
Butt-Chique, an innovative CHERISH THE SPARKLE
lingerie company that is 99% IN YOU
woman-led and promises The holiday season is all about staying fashionable,
to form to your body vibrant, and excellent. To capture this festive mood,
with enticing shapewear, Tanishq has unveiled a vivid jewellery collection named
body tapes, and nipple “Colour Me Joy - The Carnival Edit,” and it meets all the
pasties to shift attitudes celebratory prerequisites. From drop earrings composed
and inspire women to of lovely amethysts, bright diamonds, and a distinctive
embrace shapewear. With cut of green onyx to the Dahlia Decadence earrings, the
sustainability at its heart, spectacular Crystal Ravine Drop Earrings, and more. The
Butt-Chique strives to have a zero-plastic shipping and packaging policy. All of next time you want to stand out with jewellery at a party,
their items are label-free and fully disclosed on the reverse. The brand is focused choose among these versatile, colourful diamond jewels
on creating shapewear that is genuinely comfortable and durable. from Tanishq.
For more information, visit Buttchique.com For more information, visit Tanishq.co.in
 , -  131
VOGUE Shoplist
FASHION Stella McCartney (www.stellamccartney.com)

Supriya Lele (www.supriyalele.com)
Akaaro (www.akaaro.com) Syna (www.synajewels.com)
Alexander McQueen (www.alexandermcqueen.com) Thom Browne (www.thombrowne.com)
Anna Sui (www.annasui.com) Tizzi (www.tizzi.in)
Balenciaga (www.balenciaga.com) Tweedmans (www.tweedmans.co.uk)
Bloni (www.bloni.in) Ura (www.wearura.com)
Bottega Veneta (www.bottegaveneta.com) Urvashi Kaur (www.urvashikaur.com)
Celine (www.celine.com) Valentino (www.valentino.com)
Chanel (www.chanel.com) Versace (www.versace.com)
Chloé (www.chloe.com) Vivetta (www.vivetta.com)
Christopher Kane (www.christopherkane.com) Wolford (www.wolfordshop.net)
Coach (www.coach.com) Woodrose Deli (www.woodrosedeli.com)
Comme des Garçons (www.comme-des-garcons.com)
Dhruv Kapoor (www.dhruvkapoor.com) WELLNESS & BEAUTY
Dior Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai 022-67499091,
DLF Emporio, Delhi 011-46005900 (www.dior.com) Aman (shop.aman.com)
DKNY at No Standing NYC (www.nostandingnyc.com) Chanel Select City Walk, Delhi,
Dolce & Gabbana (www.dolcegabbana.com) 01142114265 (www.chanel.com)
Etro (www.etro.com) Clinique (www.nykaa.com)
Extreme Cashmere (www.extreme-cashmere.com) Good Earth (www.goodearth.in)
Fabindia(www.fabindia.com) Herbivore (www.revolve.com)
Fendi (www.fendi.com) Jo Malone Palladium, Mumbai
Foundrae (www.foundrae.com) Kevin Aucoin (www.nykaa.com)
Ganni (www.ganni.com) Pureath (india.purearth.asia)
Gianvito Rossi (www.gianvitorossi.com) Rituals by Vasudha Rai (www.amazon.in)
Giorgio Armani (www.armani.com) Tom Ford (www.nykaa.com)
Givenchy (www.givenchy.com)
Gucci DLF Emporio, Delhi 022-5033242. Palladium,
Mumbai 022-50323242 (www.gucci.com) JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Isa Boulder (www.isaboulder.com)
Ituvana (www.ituvana.com) Ashley Zhang (www.ashleyzhangjewelry.com)
Jimmy Choo (www.jimmychoo.com) Colette (www.colettejewelry.com)
Laponte (www.maisonlaponte.com) Dyne (www.instagram.com/sarahysabeldyne)
Lily Silk (www.lilysilk.com) Ileana Makri (www.ileanamakri.com)
Lito (www.litofinejewelry.com) Jennifer Behr(www.jenniferbehr.com)
Loewe (www.loewe.com) Omega (www.omegawatches.com)
Louis Vuitton DLF Emporio, Delhi 1800-103-9988. The
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Mumbai 1800-103-9988.
No. 20-24, UB City, #24 Vittal Mallya Rd,
Bengaluru, 1800-103-9988 (www.louisvuitton.com)
Martine Rose (www.martine-rose.com)
Miu Miu (www.miumiu.com)
Moonray (www.moonray.in)
Nappa Dori (www.nappadori.com)
No Standing NYC (www.nostandingnyc.com)
Nº21 (www.numeroventuno.com)
Oscar de la Renta (www.oscardelarenta.com)
Paco Rabanne (www.pacorabanne.com)
Payal Khandwala (www.payalkhandwala.shop)
Prada (www.prada.com)
Raniwala 1881 (www.raniwala1881.com)
Raw Mango (www.rawmango.com)
Saint G (www.saintg.in)
The merchandise featured editorially has been ordered at the above stores. Some shops may carry a selection only. Prices and
NICK SETHI
availability were checked at the time of going to press. But we cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that specific items will
be in stock when the magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting a shop you call to make sure they have your size.

Jacket, chadar; both
AKAARO. Shoes,
LOUIS VUITTON

Shibani Dandekar Tamannaah Bhatia, Anna Wintour and Manish Malhotra
Anna Wintour, Megha Kapoor and Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Divia Thani,
Richa Singh,
Sabyasachi
Shane Peacock and Falguni Peacock Mukherjee and
Dilshad Arora
Mira Kapoor, Amrita Thakur,

Shweta Kapur and Palak Shah
FORCES OF FASHION
The evening of November 23, 2022, saw
the fashion community dressed to the
nines at the Royal Opera House in
Mumbai for the Indian rendition of the
internationally renowned ‘Forces of
Fashion’ event, which carried the theme
of cocktails and diamonds. The gathering
was no doubt a mix of fashion’s biggest
luminaries, with Anna Wintour, the chief
content officer of Condé Nast and
global editorial director of Vogue,
introducing the event during her first- Ayushmann Khurrana
ever visit to India. and Aditi Rao Hydari
Megha Kapoor, Anna Wintour and Richa Singh

Sanjay Garg, Anna Wintour
and Megha Kapoor
Contemporary Indian jewellery curated by the Vogue team
Ananya Birla
Manushi Chhillar
Diipa Büller-Khosla and

Sabyasachi Mukherjee
A sculptural piece
by Kallol Datta
The event was graced by celebrities

from the Vogue fashion family,
including Mira Rajput Kapoor,
Ayushmann Khurrana, Vijay Varma,
Aditi Rao Hydari, Ananya Birla, and
Masoom Minawala. The country’s most
Close up of beautiful Indian revered designers, including Sabyasachi
jewellery on display for the evening Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, the
Manish Malhotra,
dynamic couture duo Falguni and Aditi Rao Hydari
Shane Peacock, Payal Khandwala, and Tamannaah Bhatia
Abhishek Raniwala, Abhinav Mishra,
Raj Mahtani, Dhruv Kapoor, Masaba
Gupta, and more, were there for a
Payal
night of celebration and conversations
Khandwala about India’s burgeoning fashion scene.
Masaba Gupta
Angad Singh
Anaita Shroff Adajania, Varshita Thatavarthi, Diipa Büller-Khosla,
Sanjay Garg, Aditi Rao Hydari, Kanupriya Tandon and Gaurav Gupta Kalyani Saha Chawla, Alex Kuruvilla and Divya Thakur
Bibhu Mohapatra, Raj

Mahtani, Shane Peacock,
Alan Gemmell, Divia Thani Manish Malhotra and
and Sabyasachi Mukherjee Falguni Peacock
Jagvir Matharoo, Kallol Datta, Vijay Varma and Martino Caramia Masoom Min
awala and Ka
rishma Manga
Bedi
The event highlighted India’s meticulous
workmanship, the inclusion of
intersectionality and emerging voices in
fashion and culture, and much more. All of
these topics were discussed by a
distinguished panel that included Anna
Wintour, Megha Kapoor, head of editorial
content for Vogue India, and Sabyasachi
Mukherjee, the pioneer of Indian handloom.
The special natural diamond jewellery show
and the art installations designed were the
visual highlights of the evening. The
exhibitions featured examples of the finest
Vijay Varma
diamond jewellery from renowned names
such as DeBeers, Raniwala 1881, Gem
Palace, VAK and others. It provided a
glimpse into India’s love for luxury, heritage,
and exquisite craftsmanship. Alex Kuruvilla and Masaba Gupta
Deepshikha Khanna and Arundhati De-Sheth Abhishek Raniwala and Shyamal Shodhan
Bhavika Morparia and Payal Khandwala
Archana Jain, Pooja Churiwala and Ipsita Das
Kalyani Chawla and Gabriella Demetriades
Sanjay Garg and Bandana Tewari
Manushi Chhillar
Falguni Peacock
Vishal Kothari Mrunal Thakur
Vijay Varma, Tamannaah Bhatia, Shibani Dandekar, Indian classical dancers entertain
Mrunal Thakur, Anaita Shroff Adajania and Gaurav Gupta the guests for the evening.
VOGUE In List
Fortune
Cookie
‘GG Slide
Sandal’, GUCCI,
price on request
MARTIN PARR
Mules with a splash of red—and sparkling crystals—

to summon good luck in the new year
PHOTO: SIGNE VILSTRUP/VOGUE INDIA
BEFORE IT’S IN FASHION,

IT’S IN VOGUE!
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J A N

BEFORE IT’S IN FASHION, IT’S IN VOGUE!

PHOTO: BIKRAMJIT BOSE/VOGUE INDIA

82 ALL ABOUT AVANTI

grammed luxury stamped across your Photographed by Craig McDean

30 DESK SELF FORWARD

36 GREATEST OF ALL TIME

‘SKIN OF THE MOON’, PAGE 42

4 vogue india, january-february 2023

60 OUT OF THE WOODS

74 THE RIGHT TO REST RSVP

The firmly reticent Konkona Sen Sharma 138 FORTUNE COOKIE

vogue india, january-february 2023 5

Pankaj Singh Parihar Consumer Marketing Lead Priyanka Shivdasani

Conde Nast (India) Pvt. Ltd.

6 vogue india, january-february 2023

If You Want to get these Newspapers Daily at earliest

अमर उजाला, जनस�ा, द पायोनीर, राष्ट्र�य सहारा, प्रभातखबर, लोकस�ा

Type in Search box of Telegram English_Newspaper_platform And

to get the digital edition Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch

PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE

PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION

vogue india, january-february 2023 7

8 vogue india, january-february 2023

In ‘All about Avanti’, he shoots model-of-

vogue india, january-february 2023 9

10 vogue india, january-february 2023

1. ‘Degrade Impatiens Earrings’,

vogue india, january-february 2023 11

12 vogue india, january-february 2023

1. ‘Tan-Go Pumps With Crystals’, VALEN-

TINO GARAVANI, ₹2,07,844 2. ‘Mostra

vogue india, january-february 2023 13

Hindu myths, Afghan folklore and everything in between—whether places

BEFORE IT’S IN FASHION, IT’S IN VOGUE!

A surrealist twist to grand 1. ‘Magdalena Necklace’, JENNIFER

NEW PHASES OF the moon bring different energies that can

16 vogue india, january-february 2023

₹ 850 2. CHANEL ‘Stylo

18 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 19

20 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 21

LAY YOUR HEAD DOWN

22 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 23

24 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 25

26 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 27

28 vogue india, january-february 2023

CREDIT HERE PLEASE

BEFORE IT’S IN FASHION, IT’S IN VOGUE!

SEPT APR MAY

SRIDEVI: YOU CAN

HITS ADITI RAO

Desk self forward

“Living in Bondi allows for a morning dip in the ocean,

“My work desk is very minimal.

vogue india, january-february 2023 31

32 vogue india, january-february 2023

vogue india, january-february 2023 33

34 vogue india, january-february 2023