You are on page 1of 4

Pratical Activity

TLE
EARLY MATURING SEMI-ANNUAL ANNUAL VEGETABLES PERMANENT CROPS
VEGETABLES VEGETABLES
Tomatoes, Peppers, pome and stone fruit,
Eggplant, Okra, vines, figs, kiwi, rhubarb
carrots, beets,
Radishes,Salad,leaves Chayote Squash,
cauliflower, endive,
,Bush
some types of lettuce, Jerusalem Artichoke,
beans,Carrots,Spinach
parsley, parsnips, Horseradish.
potatoes and salsify

ASSESSMENT

1. Most vegetables are ready for harvest when


they reach a useable size. To check the
tenderness and flavor of a vegetable bite into it.
Don't delay the harvest simply to grow bigger
crops–flavor will likely be lost.

1. 2. *Okra – 1 Harvest the okra when seed pods are 1 to 2 days old and 2 to
4 inches long; these appear about 2 months after planting. ...
2. 3 Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the okra because most
varieties are covered with tiny spines that will irritate your skin.

*Potato - Gently dig up your potatoes. Using your fingers or a spading fork, lift the
potatoes gently out of the dirt. The soil should be loose, so you shouldn’t need to dig
aggressively. Do not leave the potatoes sitting in the sun; they will turn green and inedible. If
you harvest any green potatoes, throw them out.

Allow the potatoes to air-dry. If your soil was particularly moist, allow the potatoes to air-
dry (outside of direct sunlight).

Cure the potatoes. To prepare potatoes for storage, allow them to sit in a cool, dry, dark place
for two weeks. This will harden the skins and help them last.

Store the potatoes. Store potatoes in a cool, dark place—if you don’t have a root cellar, the
bottom shelf of your pantry will do. They can keep for up to six months.
*Tomato - During the growth of the plant, we must remove the new stems that grow between the leaves and

the main stem to ensure a good harvest because they unnecessarily transfer the sap, remove energy from the

rest of the plant and will not bear fruit.

Very Red fruits can be harvested in summer, if the weather is mild, they can be harvested until autumn.

Since the plant produces more tomatoes and it is more convenient to harvest more, we tend to bloom more

flowers so that there will be more tomatoes. Although the time depends on the type of tomato planted, the

first harvest usually starts around 65 to 100 days after transplanting.

It is recommended to carry out the harvest when they are “dark” ( neither green nor too mature) to avoid that

the plagues are ahead of the harvest.

*Cabbage - About 82 days after planting, your cabbage will be ready to pick. To be sure it’s
ready for harvest, squeeze the head and make sure it’s firm throughout. If the head presses in
easily and feels loose, it still needs more time to mature.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Eggplant Harvest: Information On How To Harvest An
Eggplant https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/eggplant/how-to-harvest-
eggplants.htm

*Turnip - Your turnip harvest should all be pulled before heavy freezes or the root may crack and rot in the
soil. Turnips keep very well in cold storage, so pull the entire crop by late fall. In temperate zones, the turnip
harvest is kept in the ground longer by piling mulch around the plants to protect the roots from freezing.

 *Asparagus - Do not harvest during the first couple seasons (see information above).
 If you have young plants, the season may last 2 to 3 weeks. However, established plants produce longer—up to
8 weeks.
 Check your plant every other day for harvest-ready spears. Spears grow quickly and may become too woody before
you know it! Once an asparagus spear starts to open and have foliage, it’s too tough for eating.
 Harvest spears when they reach 8 to 10 inches in height and between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick. (Bear in mind that
younger, thinner spears will be more tender, so harvest according to your own taste.)
 To harvest asparagus, simply cut the spears with a sharp knife or scissors at ground level.
 Stop harvesting spears when the diameter of the spears decreases to the size of a pencil.
 After harvest, fertilize your asparagus in early summer. You can top-dress with a balanced organic fertilizer, or
scatter another inch of rich, weed-free compost over the decomposing mulch.
 Do NOT cut down the remaining ferns in summer or you will ruin your asparagus bed. Allow the ferns to grow
and mature; this replenishes the nutrients for next year’s spear production. Always leave at least two or three
spears on the plant through the growing season.
 Only cut back asparagus ferns AFTER the foliage has died back and turned brown or yellow. This is usually in
early winter after several hard freezes. Cut the ferns back to the ground.
 Fertilize the bed with a 1-inch layer of rich, weed-free compost or manure topped with 3 inches of straw, rotted
sawdust or another weed-free mulch. Clean spears will push up through the mulch in spring
*Cailuflower - cut the cauliflower from the stem, leaving 2 inches of stem left on the head.

*Onion - start by identifying the largest, outer leaves. Using a pair of scissors, give them
a "haircut" by snipping off about a third of the leaves, about halfway down. 

*Carrot - gently pull, or use a garden fork or our Harvest Broadfork to lift the roots from the
ground. Once roots for storage are harvested, the tops should be removed. Cut the tops off, about
¼–½" above the root shoulders, and shake/rub off excess soil.

You might also like