Model Boats - Vol.73 No.869, April 2023

EXCLUSIVE Jecob in model boat
plans money-off
EMILE ROBIN
DISCOUNT code inside! The return of Billing Boats’ 1:33 scale
North Sea lifesaver
www.modelboats.com April 2023 Vol.73 No.869
A dazzling
‘plastic magic’
transformation
HULL OF A BUILD SEA URCHIN

A tale of Turmoil, Scaling up Aerokits’ little classic
Enterprise and determination
PLUS News, views, your brilliant builds showcased, and lots more!
Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 3
Vol. 73 Issue 869: April 2023
EDITORIAL
Editor: Lindsey Amrani
Senior designer: Michael Baumber
Illustrator: Grahame Chambers
Retouching Manager: Brian Vickers
Publisher: Steve O’Hara
By post: Model Boats, Mortons Media Group,

Media Centre, Morton Way,
Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR
Tel: 01507 529529 Fax: 01507 371066 10 Compass 360
Email: editor@modelboats.co.uk
Latest hobby and industry
CUSTOMER SERVICES news, plus details of how to
General Queries & Back Issues claim an exclusive discount
01507 529529 – Monday-Friday: 8.30am-5pm on plans from the Jecobin
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and get your favourite
ADVERTISING magazine for less
Advertising Sales Executive: Angela Price
aprice@mortons.co.uk Tel: 01507 529411 14 The return of
By post: Model Boats Advertising,
the Emile Robin
Mortons Media Group, Media Centre, Morton Way, The Billing Boats’ kit back
Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR by popular demand
PUBLISHING 16 Scaling up the
Sales and Distribution Manager: Carl Smith Sea Urchin
Marketing Manager: Charlotte Park Ray Wood reveals how,
Commercial Director: Nigel Hole
Publishing Director: Dan Savage
with just some minor
modifications, the design 32 Enterprise, Turmoil and me!
Published by: Mortons Media Group Ltd, for Aerokits’ original little John Mileson entertains us with another
Media Centre, Morton Way, Horncastle, classic can be used as of his less than ‘zen’ model boat building
Lincs LN9 6JR the basis for a bigger and experiences
SUBSCRIPTIONS better 28-inch version
Tel: 01507 529529 – Mon-Fri: 8.30am-5pm
Enquiries: subscriptions@mortons.co.uk 22 Blue Devil
Get ready for
PRINT AND DISTRIBUTIONS some ‘plastic
Printed by: Acorn Web Offset Ltd, Loscoe Close, magic’, as Dermot
Normanton Industrial Estate,
West Yorkshire, WF6 1TW
Curnyn begins the
Distribution by: Seymour Distribution Ltd, 2 East story of a dazzling
Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT transformation
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4 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

WELCOME TO THE
APRIL 2023 ISSUE
OF MODEL BOATS...
A
pologies if my ‘Welcome to the
October 2022 issue’ blunder last
month made you wonder if you
were in some sort of time warp. Note
to self: ‘When overwriting a template,
always remember to check everything
has been updated’.
Humble pie now consumed, onwards,
because we’ve got a smorgasbord of
content for you to get stuck into in
this edition, with features covering
everything from scratch-built beauties to
a superb ‘plastic magic’ transformation,
38 Flotsam & Jetsam: 58 Boiler Room as well ideas, tips and tricks that will
USS United States Richard Simpson explains the purpose help you improve and enhance just
John Parker tells the story of one of heat shunts and their advantages, about any model, and some interesting
man’s vision, the resulting Blue Riband using his own recent hands-on examples of how theories have been put
winning ocean liner and the options experience to demonstrate how theory to the test during practical application.
open to modellers today… can be put into practice We’ve also got seven and half pages
44 Upgrading an RTR, Part 2 64 Your Models of Your Models and Your Letters (my
Richard Simpson provides ideas, hints More of your brilliant builds showcased favourite sections of the magazine) – and
and tips that will help you transform a when it comes to sharing brilliant builds,
mass-produced Ready-To-Run model
68 Your Letters I’ve got to say, crikey, our Aussie readers
Views aired, and information shared have played a real blinder this month –
into a unique and far more realistic
model you can be truly proud of… 74 Next month good on you! At the same time, and on a
Just three of the reasons you won’t more serious note, having seen reports
52 Get in line! of the devastation caused by Cyclone
want to miss the May issue of MB!
Glynn Guest shares the results of some
Gabrielle, all best thoughts and wishes
interesting angle coupling
to go out to those affected in New
experiments
Zealand – and, of course, to all victims
54 Memory Lane: of the other shocking recent natural
Big Stuff disasters, such as earthquakes that have
Dave Wiggins recalls the decimated parts of Turkey and Syria.
days of having it large! For me, situations like these firmly
underline the importance of keeping
hobbies like model boat building alive,
because they serve as a practical,
hands-on introduction to the kind of
understanding so important to the next
generation of designers, architects,
engineers, builders, etc, or indeed to
anyone who simply wants to develop a
determined ‘can do’ attitude.
This mag is always packed with
examples of ‘where there’s a will,
there’s a way’, but when it comes to the
vast pool of knowledge I know is out
there, I think we’re merely skimming
the surface. So, I want to cast the net
even wider by inviting more of you to
share your problem busting solutions,
tried and tested modus operandi, or
nifty money saving/recycling hacks.
These wouldn’t have to be presented as
full-length feature style articles, even a
couple of paragraphs would do, as we
could perhaps incorporate them as part
of a regular or semi-regular monthly
section, treating them in the same way
we do Your Models and Your Letters.
Meanwhile, I think you’ll find lots of
food for thought in the pages ahead,
so enjoy your read!
Lindsey

Signals
Compass 360 If you have a news story for these pages, please contact the
Editor, Lindsey Amrani, via e-mail at editor@modelboats.co.uk
PRIZE DRAW!
PRIZE DRAW WINNERS

LET THERE BE LIGHT – EXCLUSIVE
WIN! a PURElite 4-in-1 LED

Crafters Magnifying Lamp!
T
he January 2023 issue of Model Boats featured
two fantastic prize draws and we are now
delighted to announce the winners as:
PRIZEGE
A
PACKRT
WO H
T
his month, thanks to the
generosity of the kind folks at the
Singer Outlet, we’re able to offer
£109.99! ● Purelite 4-in-1 Prize Draw. Martin Richards of
Penarth, Vale of Glamorgan
and
you the chance to win this fantastic
versatile workspace/workshop lamp.
free-standing lamp is
This height of this multipurpose
on the floor (when inserted
adjustable, so it can be placed either
approximately 80cm/31-inches
into the base, the stand measures
or reduced down to sit on
from floor to the top of the stand)
It comes with a handy clip-on tray, which
a workbench/table.
separators included, so you
can be customised with the plastic
bobs within easy reach while life and produce 170
can safely store all your bits and These long-lasting bulbs boast 20,000hrs
can be kept in direct view incorporates a dimmer switch, which
working. Likewise, diagrams/plans/etc lumens of light, but the lamp also
which comes in the form of
● Billing Boats’ Will Everard Prize Draw. Michael

courtesy of another great accessory, means you have total control of the
brightness.
can be clipped onto the main be adjusted, too, making it
a clamp on a small flexible arm that The position of the lamp head can
of the project you’re focussed on.
stem of the stand. effortless to illuminate precise aspects
The head of the PURElite 4-in-1 lamp
features 21 long-lasting may find it in high demand by other
It’s perfect for modelling but you
LED bulbs spaced around a to reading, needlework, jigsaw
and energy saving daylight effect family members, as it’s equally suited
lamp can either be plugged
13cm magnifying (x2) lens, and the all descriptions!
Curling of Tonbridge, Kent

puzzles and indeed craft work of
Size C batteries (not included).
into the mains or powered by 4 x
Congratulations to you both ●

retailer of Singer Sewing
The Singer Outlet is an official main
the largest choice of Singer
Machines (UK & Ireland) and offers
available in the UK,
sewing machine models and accessories
and craft products.
along with thousands of other sewing
visit singeroutlet.co.uk
To view the entire range of products,
www.modelboats.co.uk January 2023
22
Exclusive BUY THE

Jecobin BOOK
plans Elizabeth’s Navy: Seventy
Years of the Postwar
Royal Navy
discount Over the 70 years of the reign of the
late Queen Elizabeth II, the Royal
Peedie Models is offering Navy has been transformed in almost
readers of this magazine every respect. Naval historian and
a 10% discount all on the author Dr Paul Brown’s new book
Jecobin Collection plans provides a survey of this fascinating
available to purchase via period, exploring each decade in
its Quaycraft.uk website. turn and outlining the key events and
All you have to do is use developments, and importantly for
the exclusive discount modellers, provides a stunning visual
code MBM10 when record of the ships and operations that
placing your order. While featured most prominently in each
visiting the site, we also Right: Laser-etched decking boards, made from 1.5mm decade.
recommend browsing thick ply, priced at £9.95. These are available in 1:72 scale, Scheduled for release on April 13,
all the other newly listed 1:96 scale and 1:128 scale. The plywood used will conform the book, which will be published in
products, just three of to your ships profile and can easily be cut using a good craft hardback format, will carry an RRP
which are illustrated here. knife or fine-toothed saw, with an etch area of 18cm x 27cm. (Recommended Retail Price) of £45,
but can currently be pre-ordered
via the publisher’s website at www.
ospreypublishing.com at the discounted
price of £40.50.
3D-printed kits for the Leander class sonar winch system in 1:96 scale, which retails at £14.50 (left), and Type 89 AA
cannon, as used on the IJN Yamato battleship in 1-96 scale, priced at £7.95 (right). These high-quality resin 3D-printed
kits require minimal clean up and can be built by following the simple construction instructions provided.

Signals
New pool for Ellesmore Port MBC OUT AND ABOUT

It’s good news for Cheshire-based
model boat enthusiasts this month. Schooner R/C Group
Malcolm Watts of the Ellesmere Port spectacular
Model Boat Club explains: “Sadly, Over the weekend of April 15/16, the Schooner Radio
about three or four years ago, we lost Control Group will be kicking off a whole season of
our sailing water when we had to vacate 2023 events with a return to Leonardslee Lakes and
Hooton Park (ex-RAF Hooton Park). I Gardens (near Horsham, Surrey). From 10am to 3pm
am, however, delighted to report that each day, the group will be sailing yachts, steamboats
the reasons behind this have finally and warships, and will be happy to answer any
been resolved and we are now not questions about sailing and the various model boats
only back at Hooton Park but in the Work on a bigger and better pool is currently built by its members.
process of building a larger pool. All of underway and it’s hoped regular sailing will resume More info and details of admission prices can be
the hard graft has been undertaken by this coming May. obtained by visiting www.leonardsleegardens.co.uk
the few dedicated members that kept
the faith and remained determined the end of April, with the pool ready for use Lifeboat themed open day
club would survive, and who can now this coming May. The Knightcote Model Boat Club (South
literally claim to have dug deep! Work “As a result, we are now looking Warwickshire, CV47 2EQ) will be hosting a lifeboat-
is scheduled to be finished by the forward to having a programme of themed open day (where there will be prizes for ‘Best
regular sailing days and events and Boat on the Water and ‘Best Static Boat) from 10am
to welcoming back former members. to 4pm on Sunday, May 14.
We would also like to extend an open As the event will be raising funds for the RNLI,
invitation to any newcomers interested the local RNLI will be in attendance, and additional
in joining us. attractions will include trade stands to browse, a raffle
“Regular meetings at Hooton to participate in and refreshments served in the club
have already resumed on the second house. Free onsite parking will be available.
Tuesday of every month at 7pm, where For more details contact
a programme of talks and films can be chrismoiruk@btinternet.
enjoyed. We also support the Hooton com or check out the
Trust’s Open Days on the last Sunday of club’s website www.
Ellesmere Port MBC’s former model boating pool at each month.” kmbcmodelboatclub.com.
Hooton Park.

North Sea lifesaver
EMILE ROBIN 430

BUILDING INSTRUCTION
RETURN OF THE
WWW.BILLINGBOATS.COM
EMILE ROBIN
B
illing Boats is about to relaunch its 1:33 scale
kit for the Danish Search & Rescue vessel the
Emile Robin, and this month we’re able to
bring you a first look at the model completed by BB’s
test builder Jan Hansen. Jan’s model is shown here
alongside images of the real thing to illustrate just
how convincingly scaled-down and accurately detailed
Billing Boats’ version of the Emile Robin actually is.
You will also find lots of additional photographs shared
on our Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/
modelboatsmag
The kit, which builds a model measuring 61cm in
length, 35cm in height and 19cm in width, is due for
imminent release and orders are now being taken by all
Billing Boats’ stockists (see ads in this magazine or visit
the Billings Boat website at www.billingboats.com for a
full listing of distributors worldwide).

North Sea lifesaver
To further explore the Billing Boats range

visit, https://www.billingboats.com
Named after the Parisian merchant, philanthropist, cognac manufacturer, Vice-President of the French charity La Société Centrale de Sauvetage
des Naufrages (Society for the Salvation of Shipwrecks) and one of the most important benefactors in the 150-year history of the Danish Lifeboat
Service, the Emile Robin, MRB 20, is permanently stationed in Hvide Sande on the western coast of Denmark.
Although not included in the kit itself, Jan has also

Jan Hansen with his completed test build of the Emile Robins, installed lighting, thereby demonstrating how the kit can
shortly to be reintroduced into Billing Boats range. be yet further enhanced by those of you with the know-how.
New to the Billing Boats’ crew! Thomasz has

recently been brought onboard not only to
help update and improve the kits themselves
but also to create full-colour, user-friendly,
step-by-step photo manuals, like the one
shown here for the Emile Robin.
Model Boats • April 2023 13

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Built from plans
The enlarged plan with its ¼-inch plywood keel needs to be traced from the drawing, transferred
to the plywood and cut out with a bandsaw. Ray left a section of the stern tube open until the
doublers had been fitted either side of the keel to ensure good alignment.
SCALING UP
SEA URCHIN
In this easy to follow ‘show and tell’, Ray Wood explains how, with just
some minor modification, the design for Aerokits’ original little 16-inch
classic can be used as the basis for a bigger and better 28-inch version
T
he Sea Urchin was my first proper
plywood model boat build, at around
12 years of years of age, so if I tell
you I’ll be celebrating my 68th birthday this
year you can see I’ve been doing this for
a while, with some intermissions for work,
marriage, daughters and grandchildren.
Some folks say they gave up an interest to
do the aforementioned, but not me, I kept
building throughout my working life and into
retirement after 51 years in the construction
industry.
The original 16-inch-long version of Sea
Urchin, designed by Les Rowell, was the
smallest and cheapest in Aerokits’ range of
model boats, which were distributed by Keil The hull is built inverted on the building board, with lightening holes cut out of the keel and breast hooks, and Obeche 1/8-
Kraft back in the days when every town had inch x ¼-inch used for the deck and chine stringers. Note the bulkhead extensions to the building board, which was Ray’s
a model shop and young lads saved their common datum, with cross beams glued down to the board.

Built from plans
The bottom skins are glued and pinned with temporary veneer pins (Ray never uses steel pins in a boat), which can later be removed, and the holes filled in. The
bevelled stem doubler is in place to receive the side skins at the bow.
pocket money until they could afford to buy

and build their dream boats. My family was
into making things, model boats, planes and
trains, so I was always had access to a fully
equipped workshop and materials, whether
it was my dad’s shed or my grandad’s
workshop. Luck was on my side, as very few
kids today have access to such facilities –
although fortunately my grandchildren do.
Back in the day, the little Sea Urchin was
designed to withstand the rigours of being The hull sheeting to the bottom and sides. The hull is sitting in a simple ½-inch plywood stand. You will find such a stand
powered by a small diesel engine, which useful to complete the superstructure, and at the lake when once your model is complete.
Back in the workshop with the foredeck and cabins sides fitted. These need to The original block balsa forward sections being replaced with blue Styrofoam, which needs to be
cut from 1/16-inch plywood, which can be supplied by SLEC. carved to shape in situ with a long blade. Always cut away from yourself!

Built from plans
The bow blocks need to be carved and sanded with a slight flare, ready for covering with glass cloth and water-based resin (the rest of the hull is strong enough not to need this treatment),
then glued in place with water resistant PVA glue. Ray uses Gorilla white glue for everything.
The cabin roof subframe is built in place. You need to exercise care with the amount of glue used to make sure the roof and sub frame don’t become permanently attached to the cabin. This
allows access to the motor and radio equipment.

Built from plans
Ray’s partially completed Sea Urchin sitting in the sunshine with her rear deck, cabin roof and cockpit floor in place.
meant it had to be strong. These days it transom hung rudder, I thought I’d have I should also point out that if thinking of
could equally be made from balsawood for another go at building her, but larger, at tackling this build yourself, then you’ll have to
electric power. To be honest, the 1/16-inch 28-inches long, so it was off to the repro shop redraft the bulkheads, as they don’t feature
ply skins were a real struggle to glue and pin to have the drawing enlarged. At this stage on the original drawing.
in place on the original. I must say a huge thank you to Harry Smith, This summer my model boat club took
Many years later, and still being attracted a Model Boats magazine forum friend, who a stand at the Headcorn Aerodrome
to the small cabin launch concept with the emailed me the pdf of the original drawing. show, where models were on display from
The transom hung rudder is hinged on fabricated brass fittings, with a brass To bring some relief from the plywood, Ray whittled some mahogany fittings, mostly from his scrap
rod for a pivot. The removable tiller is part of the steering linkage. box. The helmsman is trying his seating position.

Built from plans
With your boat substantially complete, she’ll need to be given three coats of yacht varnish, inside and out, with a light rub down between coats; this will keep the water out.
most of the local clubs, some of them be

demonstrated on a pool built from straw bails
and a plastic liner. It quickly became apparent
that one of the frequent questions asked by
the interested visiting public was “What’s it
made from?”. Obviously, some were plastic
and had been made in China, while others
had been painstakingly scratch built, but
they were all painted! So, with this in mind,
I decided for future shows my larger version
of the Sea Urchin would be varnished, with
the only variation being the addition of some
parts of mahogany to contrast with the birch
plywood basic hull and cabin.
“Sea Urchin truly is a lovely

classic design, and really benefits
from being built larger”
Sea Urchin truly is a lovely classic design,

and really benefits from being built larger.
Consequently, now complete, my 28-inch
version has become a real personal favourite
when there’s no wind for sailing.
Rather than my normal step by step build
instructions, here I will instead leave the
captioned photos of my build to tell the story
and serve as a guide. Enjoy!
The steering servo sits under the rear deck, which is removable, with a simple brass rod linkage to the tiller.

Built from plans
Sea Urchin on the water at Bluewater Lake, being pushed at over-scale speed.
At speed, with the brushed 600 motor and 7.2 volts, she will easily get up on the plane, but she’ll need some ballast up the front to keep her bow down.

Plastic magic
Dermot Curnyn begins

the story of a dazzling
transformation
PART
ONE
22
Plastic magic
T
he Lindberg kit of the ‘Blue Devil,’ Kit hunting
Fletcher class destroyer has been The first and
around since the early 1960s. probably most
Lindberg was renowned at the time for difficult task will be
producing motorised ship kits, which, it has to get hold of one
to be acknowledged, often sacrificed scale of these kits at a
accuracy for the advantage of a swift build. reasonable price. I
At the time of its release, the Fletcher kit spent around a year
was one of the largest injection moulded trying to source
model ship kits on the market and Lindberg one, scouring both
was really leading the way in motorised kit model shops and the internet. At the time 4). The photos in this booklet are
technology, often incorporating working of writing the yet again re-released kit was quite clear but unfortunately the images
features into its models. In the case of this available but priced a bit beyond my ideal are not supported by particularly lengthy
particular kit, the ship could be set up to free budget, retailed by several outlets at around text; perhaps this was an effort to keep the
run in several different zigzag patterns, while £125. In all fairness, though, this is still good translation tasks to a minimum, as instructions
the main gun turrets revolved. Of course, value compared with the cost of similar R/C are presented in Spanish and German as well
these were the early days of radio-control so kits of this size. Fortunately, my patience as English.
only later releases included instructions for eventually paid off and I found and bought I was aware that performance with a
rudimentary conversion to R/C. one online from Germany for just £65. straightforward R/C conversion would be
In the 60s, Revell was producing ship kits a bit limited. The one-piece deck is held in
at 1:96 scale. Lindberg, however, chose to What’s in the box? place by a few screws and is not particularly
produce the ‘Blue Devil’ at the unusual scale The kit arrived in a very big box (see Photos good at keeping out water. The hull itself is
of 1:125, primarily to keep the size within 1 and 2). The version I’d managed to get very flat bottomed with a limited draft and is
the limitations of injection moulding of the hold of was a 1980s’ release, which, despite quite top-heavy as a result. The single motor
time and yet still produce a model which, at its age, was intact and with all components and gearbox arrangement is effective but
36-inches long, was bigger than anything else still on their sprues and in plastic bags, and lacks power, because as well as turning the
available back then. closer inspection of them revealed very little twin props it also provides the motive power
Having trawled through many websites evidence of flash or other tooling wear. for the system of rods and bell cranks which
and ‘You Tube’ videos showcasing other Also contained were the gear sets for the operate the zigzag and gun rotating facility.
modellers’ efforts to bring this kit into the ‘motorisation kit’ and zigzag mechanism, This is, basically, a toy boat and purists
21st century, I’ve come up with a few hull and including a small 280 type DC motor, wire, may disapprove of the model’s inaccuracies.
running gear modifications of my own, which screws, battery terminals and other ‘bits But with some radical alterations it can be
I will outline here, hopefully providing some and pieces’, together with a well-illustrated converted into a decent stand-off scale
inspiration for aspiring plastic kit converters. booklet of instructions (see Photos 3 and performer.
4
3
23
Plastic magic
8
Hull modifications
My first job, after examining all the parts,
was to adapt the hull to give greater draught
and hopefully better stability. The kit hull is
moulded in one piece, and despite its size
mine wasn’t distorted in any way – pretty
good for a kit of this period (see Photos 5
and 6).
I began by cutting a few additional lower
bulkheads from 2mm styrene sheet and
glued these firmly in place on the inverted
hull. I added some roughly shaped styrene
foam fillers between the bulkheads and
secured them with all-purpose glue (see
Photos 7 and 8). The glue tends to dissolve
the foam, so only the slightest amount was
applied, just enough to hold them in place so
I could shape them a bit better. I then made
sure that the plastic hull was well sanded and as this first layer of filler, once hardened, needed plastic surface providing some additional grip for
roughened up below the waterline to give a to prevent any resin from subsequent layers the filler, cracking was likely to happen in this area,
good key for the car body filler which would penetrating through to the foam beneath (see so, after applying initial grey primer to the sanded
be applied in due course. Photos 9 and 10). This whole process was critical hull, I built up some strips of 0.5mm plastic card
After some rudimentary carving and sanding, to ensure that the boat would sit evenly on the to bridge and strengthen the overlap. These
I coated the foam with PVA to provide a barrier, water. The added weight was quite substantial would also serve to represent the detail of armour
thereby preventing the resin in the filler from once all the filler had been applied and sanded belting, clearly visible on the actual ships but
dissolving the styrene foam. The first coat of back, but the additional buoyancy provided by noticeably lacking in the original Lindberg kit.
filler applied was little more than a smear on the the foam would compensate for this and the extra The Fletcher class had a quite elegant,
surface. The aim was to achieve an even coating keel weight would enhance the stability. streamlined appearance, with more sweep from
over the whole underside of the hull, without The transition area between plastic hull and bow to stern than the kit evidenced, so I added
any low spots that would require deeper filling, filler was very delicate. Despite the roughened-up more strips of 2mm styrene sheet, about 12mm
9 10

Plastic magic
11
12 13
at the highest point, to the forward gunwales to removable. But while this would afford on the hull. There’s also a slot at the bow
increase the height at the bow. Also, to enhance great access to the interior, it would not to accommodate on ‘on-off’ switch, which
the deck shear (see Photo 11) some additional prevent water ingress in anything but the would become redundant with the new R/C
filler was added in this area and then sanded back calmest sailing conditions. Likewise, given configuration, so I sanded back all the deck
to complete the effect. that my hull modifications had increased detail and left it clean for later additional
the beam at the bow, cementing the deck detailing (see Photos 12 and 13).
Decking in place was going to be necessary to allow The two raised bulwark areas amidships are
I next turned my attention to the deck. for filling and shaping of the modified bow flush with the hull sides on the real thing, but
I planned to permanently cement this in area. the kit has them moulded in from the edges to
place, leaving four hatches with removable The kit deck is moulded entirely in one allow for deck removal. These were probably
upper works to give decent access to the piece, with quite a bit of surface detail the most glaring inaccuracy in the kit, so I cut
interior. The kit instructions suggested moulded into it, including plate weld lines them off and would later replace them with
permanently fixing the superstructures and bollards, which would be too far in from styrene sheet alternatives in the correct position
in place while keeping the deck itself the deck edge of the modified bow areas (see Photos 14 and 15).
14 15

Plastic magic
16 17
18 19
20 Removable superstructures
To make the superstructures removable I built
up the sides of the deck openings with sheet
styrene. The rear opening was widened for
easy installation and removal of the motors.
I was now doing something that wasn’t on
the real ship, but from any distance this
wouldn’t be too obvious, and it would make
access for maintenance much simpler. I built
up the sides of the deck openings with 8mm
high strips of 2mm plastic card, ensuring the
superstructures would sit tightly over these
(see Photos 16,17,18 and 19) so that I could
confidently sail the boat in rough conditions
without any water entering the hull.
The central hatch was to be the prime access
to service batteries and radio gear. Just to
keep things a little bit drier and to make
maintenance easier, I built a box about 12cm
long by 4.5cm wide by 4cm high from sheet
styrene. This would hold all the radio and
battery gear, sit snugly within the central
hatch, and make installation and removal a
much simpler job (see Photos 20 and 21).
Propellor tubes
The kit prop tubes are each formed from two
moulded halves cemented together, leaving a
hollow tube through the centre. Packed with
grease, these would be perfectly suitable, so
for now I didn’t apply any modification and
glued them in place on the hull with plenty
of ‘poly’ cement to thoroughly weld them in
(see Photo 22).
I gave the hull a couple of coats of primer
and a light sanding, followed by some
additional filling, to get the hull to a perfectly
smooth state. The aft deck area also needed
some building up to improve seaworthiness,
21 so strips of 1mm styrene, 10mm at the

Plastic magic
22
highest point, were laminated around the tail

23
while ensuring that the deck still fitted snugly
(see Photos 23 and 24).I cut the last 9cm of
the deck tail section free from the rest of the
deck to give an access hatch to the rudder
control and servo. I’d already added an extra
bulkhead here to ensure any water which
might get in wouldn’t flow down through the
rest of the hull (see Photo 25).
Brushless motors
The original kit system includes a gearbox
with twin shaft outputs and an additional
shaft to drive the zigzag/gun rotating
mechanism (see Photos 26 and 27).
My model was going to be powered
by two small brushless outrunner motors,
without gears and with no zigzag function,
so the only piece of the system which I made
use of was the baseplate for the gearbox
structure. This plate has a wedge-shaped
underside, ensuring the correct angle of
alignment between the motor shafts and the 24 25
props.
26
27
Plastic magic
28
29
30 31
I cut a usable section from this and built up An unusual power source a ‘Y’ connector. I used a separate battery
my own motor mounts on top from styrene Now for an idea that I’d had in mind for a harness for the receiver batteries so that all
sheet, with additional struts and plenty of while but just needed the correct model to the power from the re-chargeable NI-MH’s
poly cement to keep things rigid (see Photos apply it to! For £9.99 I picked up a cheap could be dedicated to the drive motors;
28 and 29). re-chargeable drill in a local discount store. they’re 2700kv motors which translates into
I drilled out the prop tubes to a slightly larger This provided an ideal power source for the 12960rpm at 4.8volts. The additional receiver
size to take the little brass eyelets which are brushless motors, with the added advantage batteries also served usefully as ballast.
provided with the kit. These act as bearings but of an integral charger (see Photo 34). Photo 37 illustrates batteries, charger,
also help to retain the light grease which I had Some careful disassembly followed, radio, speed controllers, drive motors and
filled the tubes with prior to fitting the shafts (see releasing the main bits that I would use. The receivers all in one neat package. It was
Photo 30). redundant motor and gearbox went into the important to disconnect and isolate the
I replaced the copper plated kit shafts with spares box and the plastic housing went into power wire from the plug that connected
slightly thicker brass ones that matched the the recycling bin (see Photos 35 and 36). the two brushless speed controllers to the
diameter of the motor shafts. The motors were I added some additional insulation to receiver so that I wouldn’t have two different
attached with quite substantial and weighty brass the soldered terminals on the batteries and power sources feeding the receiver (see
couplings; I reckoned they might add a flywheel tied back the output wires with insulating Photo 38). The test button is held down to
effect to conserve battery power (see Photo 31). tape so they wouldn’t be tugged off. It was show charge status. Photo 39 shows the
Both shafts angle out slightly in opposite then a case of installing the whole lot in switch and charging jack plug point for the
directions from the centre, so this had to be taken the previously constructed plastic housing motor batteries to the left, with the receiver
into account when I made the mounts. I also before dropping it into the hull. The re- power switch on the lower right.
noticed a further kit inaccuracy, in that one of the chargeable NI-MH batteries supplied with
shafts angles out from the centre at a very slightly the drill are each 1.2v at 600mah. The 4.8v Propellors
different angle than the other – probably enough supplied would give a good duration and The kit supplies two roughly moulded
to introduce a bit of steering bias, but easily turn of speed with the brushless motors, 25mm styrene propellers of nowhere near
compensated for with a bit of rudder trim. which are much smaller and more efficient scale appearance (see Photo 40), so I tried
It was now safe to cement the deck in place and than equivalent DC motors. I paired up sourcing alternative 20mm four-bladed
give the upper hull its first coat of grey primer. a small 10a brushless electronic speed versions that would be better in terms of
Photos 32 and 33 show the before and after controller with each motor, connecting both both scale and performance. I found several
comparison of the hull profiles. ESCs to one channel on the receiver with but couldn’t bring myself to spend the large
32

Plastic magic
33
34 35
38
37 36
39
40
amount of cash (as much as £13 each) for

two brass four-bladed versions. So, instead
I went online to the ‘Google Sketchup’ CAD
programme site. Sketchup has a facility called
Warehouse that allows you to download 3D
models free of charge. I found a four-bladed
prop file which I downloaded and re-sized in
Sketchup to 20mm diameter before saving
as a new file. I then uploaded this to the
‘Shapeways’ 3D printing website. Two props,
3D-printed in nylon, for a total of £8.12
arrived in the post four days later (see Photos
41 and 42). 41
42

Plastic magic
43 44
45 46
First painting attempts Rudders

The props came with shaft holes already I knew I wanted to give the finished model According to internet sources, the first of
in place. To fix the props to the shafts, I a dazzle pattern in various shades of grey the Fletcher class, USS Melvin, on which
soldered a small piece of brass wire to the and black. Internet searching produced lots this kit is based had a single rudder. The
shaft ends, making a T-shape. I then cut of images of the real thing but in black and Lindberg kit has two, which would be correct
a slot across the top of the hole in the white, so I wasn’t sure how to tackle the deck if the model had represented any of the last
props to take the ‘T-shape’ end of the colour; sourcing accurate colour information four ships built in its class, so I considered
shaft and glued them with some was difficult. The original ships in this class modifying the hull to take a single rudder.
epoxy adhesive (see Photos 43 were endearingly nick-named ’Blue Devil’. However, converting the kit to R/C with the
and 44). This was due to the standard paint scheme existing twin rudder arrangement was more
adopted for the class at the time, which straightforward – anyway I like the two-
included blue decks. Frustratingly, rudder look.
trying to establish the actual
blue used was hampered here
by the conflicting information
carried on different
websites, and so I ended
up giving the deck areas a
coat of blue which I now think
is far too bright to be accurate.
I’ll fix this later. Below the waterline a
couple of coats of a red/brown were
applied, with a black line
between the upper
and lower hull.
48
47

Plastic magic
49
50 The kit rudder arrangement shown in the and screwed down, I felt pretty confident no
instructions has a simple yolk and lever set- water would get in… Not too much anyway
up, driven by a copper rod pivoting to left (see Photos 50).
or right of vertical. This doesn’t give a great In Photo 51 you will see that I used two skegs
deal of throw but appears to have been which came with the kit to support the shafts
sufficient to keep the boat in some tight left where they exit the hull; these are very sturdy and
or right turns with its original zigzag steering not to scale, but they won’t been seen anyway
mechanism (see Photo 45). when underway.
I modified the slot on the tiller arm with
some additional 2mm styrene sheet to The Devil’s in the detail
accept the horn of a micro-servo and used Next month I’ll be tackling the rotating guns,
the standard kit rudders (see Photos 46, 47, radar, mainmast, etc, and revealing how the
48 and 49). finished model performs, so don’t miss the
With the tail section of the deck fitted May issue.
51

Hull of a build
ENTERPRISE, TURMOIL
AND ME! John Mileson entertains us with
another of his less of than ‘zen’
model boat building experiences…
T
he classroom wall was covered in embedded itself into a niche in my memory. I’ll grudgingly admit, though, his timing
pinned up newspaper cuttings, barely Many years later, it was the arrival of a parcel was perfect. My wife was not expected to
recognisable kids’ paintings, and short, from Howes Models that caused turmoil return home for an hour or so, giving me
very short, compositions. It was 1952 and on what should have been a very peaceful ample time to manoeuvre the box into the
several hundred miles away, a drama was afternoon. Let me tell you about it... shed before enquiring eyes spotted it!
unfolding… Or at least, that was the plan, but it was
Having left Hamburg a few days earlier Tea and turmoil quickly thwarted when I couldn’t find the
bound for New York, the 6,711-ton cargo Unaware of the commotion that was about shed key. Off I went into the cottage in
ship Flying Enterprise was listing badly off the to occur, I’d allowed myself to be lulled into search of the spare. Funny, isn’t it, how you
coast of Cornwall in heavy seas after a rogue the false sense of security. My wife was out, can always find a spare key for just about
wave had caused serious structural damage. the sun was shining, and I was enjoying a everything, and a few unrecognisable ones
The cargo the ship carried was made up of a nice cup of tea in the garden. All was well besides, except the one you’re actually
wide variety of products, including pig iron, with the world. Until, suddenly, I heard looking for!
coffee, rags, Volkswagen cars and antique a vehicle draw up. Doors slammed, the By now I was beginning to get a bit hot
musical instruments, but it was the gold and gates opened, and low and behold a huge under the collar, so decided to implement
zirconium also in the hold that apparently cardboard box, below which all I could see Plan B (i.e., to hide the wretched box behind
created the most interest; the latter intended was a pair of trainers, approached. The box the shed). Early the following morning,
for use on the first nuclear submarine. was then dumped unceremoniously down having finally located the shed key, the box
Help was at hand. A number of vessels on the path, and a head poked out from was then shoved into the already crowded
attended the stricken ship, taking off the behind it. “You Mileson? Where do you want workshop.
crew and the dozen passengers. Captain Kurt this... thing?” Not wishing to enter further
Carlsen stayed aboard awaiting the arrival, out social intercourse with the obnoxious fellow, A nice little boat?
of Falmouth, of the tug Turmoil, along with her I suggested he leave it where it was. This I’d been assured by John Cox at Howes that
soon to be famous 1st officer, Kenneth Dancy. he duly did, but not before he’d insisted the contents of the box could be built into
It’s a story worth following up. on taking a photograph of me standing “a very nice little boat”. I don’t know if I’m
For some obscure reason, the name of this beside the box; after which, he scuttled losing it, but where I come from, it would
tug, perhaps because the word Turmoil was off, muttering, leaving the gates wide open be very difficult, without major surgical
a new addition to my vocabulary back then, behind him. Rude! amputation, to make a 4-foot-long hull into

Hull of a build
2 3
“You Mileson? Where do you

want this… thing?”
a “nice little boat”. It was ginormous! In

fact, if stood on end, it would make an
ideal sentry box. There not being much
call for sentry boxes in my area, a more
appropriate use, assuming a rough-hewn
door was added, might have been an
‘outside lavatory’. I had, however, set my
heart on a boat, and a boat it would be.
Time for a bit of enterprise

Once unpacked, the fibreglass hull, which
had some repairable minor damage, was
thoroughly cleaned to remove any traces of
dirt and mould (see Photo 1). Then, a cradle
was made up from some cheap plywood
(see Photo 2). 4
At this stage, I’d yet to decide what type
of boat it could be used for. Being 48-inches
x 14.5-inches, it appeared to have limited
applications. Hmm… Then, quite by chance, 5
while idly browsing some old magazines, I
spotted a photograph of a pilot cutter, and it
occurred to me that, with a bit of imagination,
perhaps my hull could be transformed into
something that could pass for such a vessel.
With no plans, this was a case of designing
as I went along. Bulkheads, made from 9 mm
birch faced plywood (see Photo 3) were tacked
in place with epoxy resin, prior to being finally
secured with P38 body filler, and, as an aid to
supporting the decks, two lengths of pine were
bonded to the bulkheads (see Photo 4).
Next, I decided I should make a start on
the cabin/engine room. Seeing as this would
be a freelance design, I was curious to get
an idea of what the model was likely to look
like when finished, and what scale it would
turn out to be. Working with 2mm plywood,
once partly assembled I guesstimate the
finished build would be approximately 1:12
scale (see Photo 5).

Hull of a build
A small keel was then fitted to the hull, down before fitting. I purposely left wide
firstly to give a little directional stability and joints between each plank (see Photo 8).
secondly to support the propellor shaft (see There seemed little point in fitting the planks
Photo 6). hard up to each other, since it’s the gaps that
To give overall support to the cosmetic give the deck some character.
planked deck, a sub deck, also made from Following three coats of marine varnish,
2mm plywood, was glued down to the location blocks were glued to the deck. The
supports, with particular care being taken to purpose of these was to locate the cabin,
create a watertight seal around the edges which was to be kept removable for access to
(see Photo 7). the workings of the launch (see Photo 9). The
Having done this, the cosmetic planked cabin roof would be similarly removable.
decking was added. Strips of 1.5mm The partially completed cabin was then
plywood, 12mm wide by 300mm long, fitted and adjustments made to the lower
were cut and glued to the sub deck using edge to create a closer fit to the deck (see
superglue, each plank having been sanded Photo 10).
9 10

Hull of a build
12
11
“There seemed little point in

fitting the planks hard up to each
other, since it’s the gaps that give
the deck some character”
The launch was too long to be tested in beneficial effect but, until the launch was which were glued and screwed to the original
the bath – probably a blessing considering fully tested, I couldn’t be completely sure plywood strakes (see Photo 13).
my previous track record when it came I’d found the answer. The next challenge was fitting some form
to bath tests and upsetting Mrs M! When Anyway, with the deck complete, it was of handrails. These, as most enthusiasts know,
placed on the water down at the Wicksteed time for the rubbing strakes to be added. can be quite vulnerable and easily sustain
Model Boat Club, however, it immediately First a short length of 1.5mm ply was damage. So, I obtained some stanchion bases
sat well, and things were looking promising. wrapped around the bow; this piece was from Clevedon Steam, adding an appropriate
But, having cruised along nicely for a while, cut ‘across the grain’, making it less difficult length of brass tube to each before capping
once back on dry land inspection revealed to form it around the tight curve of the bow them with 3 ½-inch gauge engine handrail
the motor was running very hot – too hot (see Photo 11). This was followed by the knobs. Through these knobs was threaded
to touch, in fact. I was using a 12-volt lead/ addition of the side strakes (see Photo 12) lengths of copper tube; ideally, they should
acid battery to drive the 12-volt motor, to complete the job. As an afterthought I have been brass, but I didn’t have any brass
so it was suggested to me that swapping decided to fit some rather more robust side tube to hand at the time (see Photo 14).
this out for a 6-volt battery may overcome rubbing strakes, made from plastic mini All that was now required was the finishing
the problem. This seems to have had a electrical trunking (available from Wickes), off the cabin. Window surrounds were
13
14

Hull of a build
15 16
fashioned from strips cut from 0. 8 mm workbench to hold the ply in place while it 18) and the dials on the dashboard from
plywood 6mm wide (see Photo 15); one dried overnight (see Photo 16). portholes (see Photo 19).
or two pieces did snap while attempting to As can be seen from my photos, I then
wrap them around the tighter corners but began adding some detailing. There’s still “Having cruised along nicely
were easily replaced. Perspex windows were a lot more to be done, as and when I find
glued inside the cabin using Evostik ‘Sticks the bits and bobs needed, but just out of for a while, once back on dry
like...’ silicone adhesive. The cabin roof was interest, the bow fender was made from land inspection revealed the
made from 3mm ply, and an edging glued on. wood burner door surround seal (see Photo
To bend the plywood edging to the radiused 17), the ropes from picture hanging nylon motor was running very hot
roof ends, panel pins were driven into the cord dipped in wood stain (see Photo – too hot to touch, in fact”
17

Hull of a build
19
18
All bells and whistles well. But – and there’s usually a but, isn’t As evident from outset of this story,
With that my boat was just about finished there – while replacing the 12-volt battery though, I’ve never been one for making a
(see Photo 20) and ready for ‘sea trials’ with a 6-volt version appeared to have cured drama out of a crisis! So, once I’ve got this
at Wicksteed Park. So, on a rather gloomy the motor overheating problem, there was whistling sorted, I am looking forward to
morning, off we set. Fortunately, there was suddenly a loud whistling from within the a much more relaxed sailing experience,
little or no breeze that day, which is always hull. This didn’t affect performance, but it evoking lots of happy(?) memories of my
a benefit when testing a new boat, and with was very irritating. I think a telephone call to school days some 70
no additional ballast required she set off the suppliers may be in order! years ago.
20
37
Flotsam & Jetsam
Life magazine published this cut-away

of the SS United States in 1952.
THE SS
UNITED
STATES
John Parker tells the story
of one man’s vision, the
resulting Blue Riband winning William Francis Gibbs (Wikipedia).
ocean liner and the options Blue Riband Trophy (Wikipedia).
open to modellers today…
N
ot since Noah and his ark has a Gibbs and Cox The successful conversion led to further
builder and his vessel been so closely Born in 1886, Gibbs began his career as a work, including the design of the liner
associated as William Francis Gibbs lawyer at the behest of his father but soon Malolo, which was rammed by another ship in
and the SS United States liner. Considered found his true interest lay in the design of 1927 and credited with remaining afloat due
America’s foremost naval architect, Gibbs put ships. Along with his brother, Frederick, only to the extensive compartmentalisation
40 years of experience into his vision of what who looked after the accounts, in 1922 he Gibbs built into the design. Another liner,
an ocean liner should be. When he finally got founded the naval architecture firm that was the SS America, was designed for the United
to realise that vision in the mid-20th century, to become Gibbs and Cox, initially gaining States Lines, and subsidised by the US
it was hailed as beautiful, nation-building, much recognition for the conversion of the government for use as a troopship during
safe – and fast. It easily took the Blue Riband German liner Vaterland into the Leviathan. To World War II. This brought familiarity with
from the Queen Mary on its maiden voyage, avoid paying the cost of original plans from Navy construction standards and led to much
and even that didn’t reveal its true speed Blohm and Voss in Germany, Gibbs arranged further work ‘productionising’ the Liberty
potential. Despite all this, its service life for 150 draughtsmen to swarm over the ship ship, as well as designing everything from
was brief, cut short by jet aircraft that were and re-draw it from scratch, learning much in landing craft to escort carriers, with a major
already tentatively spreading their wings the process. Incredibly, he was self-taught, emphasis on destroyers. By the end of the
across the North Atlantic. and lacked formal qualifications. war Gibbs’ reputation was high and there was
hardly a single ship in the US that hadn’t felt
his influence in some way, but his vision of the
ultimate liner was still unrealised.
“Gibbs put 40 years of experience into his vision of what The world’s fastest liner
an ocean liner should be…” After the war Gibbs began lobbying the US
government to subsidise the cost of building
a new luxury liner that could rapidly be

Flotsam & Jetsam
The SS United
States in service
(Wikipedia)
converted to a troopship for 14,000 troops in Speed would be its best defence against
the event of war. The government listened, enemy submarines, so the ship was designed
having seen how important to the war to be fast, with an unprecedented 240,000
effort ships like the Queen Mary and Queen installed horsepower in a highly refined hull
Elizabeth had been, and agreed in 1949 form. Normally, the space required by such
to subsidise most of the construction and a powerplant would take up too much room
running costs of such a ship, to be operated and require a larger hull, and that would have
in peacetime by the United States Lines. prevented another important requirement
Because of its dual role, the ship was built to be met, that of being able to traverse the
to demanding Navy specifications, which Panama Canal. Gibbs knew he could meet
included extensive compartmentalisation and these conflicting requirements because the
twin widely separated engine installations, installations he planned would be more
either one of which would ensure the compact through the use of higher steam
ship remained mobile in case of the other temperatures and pressures that ever before.
becoming flooded due to enemy action or Furthermore, extensive use was made of
accident. aluminium in the superstructure and funnels
“The ship was designed to be fast, with an unprecedented 240,000

United States Lines poster featuring the
installed horsepower in a highly refined hull form” SS United States.
Popular Mechanics’ highly recommended model build articles.

Flotsam & Jetsam
to reduce the weight and thereby keep the the ship was ready to undertake its maiden Into service
draft down to a minimum. voyage in July 1952. For the eastbound The SS United States settled into regular
A particular obsession Gibbs had was Atlantic crossing, with Gibbs aboard, the ship service without any major issues and was
with fireproofing. He had witnessed the averaged 35.59 knots, and on the return to never called upon to serve as a troopship or
SS Normandie destroyed by fire in New New York 34.51 knots, winning it the Blue to go through the Panama Canal. It seems
York Harbor in 1942 and was determined Riband trophy. For a long time the SS United to have been well liked by the passengers,
that only fireproof materials be used in the States’ top speed was a carefully kept secret, which included many famous film stars and
construction of his liner. For example, it was and as a result exaggerated figures have politicians who enjoyed crossing the Atlantic
claimed that the only wood used was in the often been quoted; the official figure is 38.32 on America’s flagship and the world’s fastest
galley’s chopping boards. This wasn’t quite knots achieved during trials. ocean liner, though there were some who
true, as lignum vitae was still used in the
propeller shaft housings, and the Steinway
piano had to be made of wood after an
experimental aluminium one did not pass its
audition.
Built by the Newport News Shipbuilding
and Drydock Company in Newport News,
Virginia, the ship was launched in June
1951 by the simple expedient of flooding
the dry dock and christened the SS United
States. Construction then continued until
Revell artwork and the

model resulting from the
build of its 1:600 kit.

Flotsam & Jetsam
An advertisement by equipment supplier Socony-Vacuum illustrates one of the widely separated engine installations.
missed the opulence and grandeur of the Right: JSC’s

earlier generation of ocean liners. 1:400 card kit.
The ship’s 35 knot service speed was
indeed fast, but this would come to be
viewed as less impressive in light of the
500-knot cruising speed of the Boeing
707 airliner. Passenger numbers started
to dwindle in the 1960s, while costs were
escalating, so when the US government
withdrew the ship’s operating subsidy in
1969, the United States Lines had little
choice but to retire the SS United States from
service. Gibbs did not live to see this sad
event, having died in 1967.
The models
Scratch builders will find plans of the SS
United States listed on the internet from
time to time, and I have a catalogue of the
Taubman Plans Service that lists a drawing
to a scale of 1:225, resulting in a 53 inch
(1346mm) long model, but I’ve been
unable to confirm its current availability.
Popular Mechanics magazine described
the construction of a 36-inch (914mm) long
model over its December 1952 to March
1953 issues, shortly after the vessel went
into service. This was for a solid carved
display model only, but I would encourage
prospective R/C modellers to check out this
series of articles, prepared with the help of
the director of model making at Newport
News Shipbuilding, for they provide much
useful detail information that can supplement
a plan. The articles can be downloaded from
The Internet Archive at https://archive.org/
details/PopularMechanics1952/Popular_
Mechanics_01_1952/
“I would encourage prospective R/C modellers to check out this series of articles…”

Flotsam & Jetsam
Plastic kits were issued by Revell at 1:600

scale and ITC at 1:400 scale in the 1950s
when the ship was big news. The Revell kit
has been re-issued at various times (most
recently 2016, I think), and I understand
makes a reasonable model with some
corrective work. The ITC kit was re-issued by
Glencoe about 20 years ago but is currently
not available.
For card modellers, a 1:400 scale kit was
issued by JSC in 2004 and, although now out
of production, examples shouldn’t be too
difficult to source. A generic unbranded kit
manufactured in China can also be found.
The SS United States today

One might expect that America’s greatest
liner, the fastest afloat and holder of the
coveted Blue Riband, would be preserved
today so that its achievement could be
visited and celebrated by all. Sadly, this is not
the case. Like many other retired liners, the
SS United States has spent decades quietly
decaying while various schemes have been
proposed only to founder, during which time
the interior furnishings have been auctioned Above: The SS United States as she appears today.
off to raise funds, and vast amounts of
dangerous asbestos have been removed. Below: The ship’s starboard inboard five-bladed
This historically important vessel therefore propeller on display at New York (Wikipedia.)
currently presents a forlorn, dilapidated
appearance at its South Philadelphia mooring
while the SS United States Conservancy
continues to fight for its survival.

Make it personal
Upgrading a RTR
Part 2
After looking at a couple of possible after-market guns, Richard eventually decided that the ones supplied with the model were the best. So, they
were simply painted to enhance detail and given a gentle weathering.
Richard Simpson shows how it’s possible to transform a mass-produced

Ready-To-Run model into something quite extraordinary...
I
n the March issue we began to look Aft superstructure was helped along the way by having the heavy
at how to take a Ready-To-Run model The aft superstructure section comprises the traffic walkways further cleaned with more
and enhance it by adding significantly accommodation, gun platforms, funnel and thinners. The guns were all enhanced with
more detail and some gentle weathering boats, all in one piece. The first job was to some detail painting and the gun platform
effects, using my own Graupner Premium undertake a similar weathering process to was given a very gentle steel enamel paint dry
Line Corvette modifications as an example. that used on the bridge, and that involved an brushing to make the chequer plating look
Having last month completed the overall dark wash, removed with a dampened scuffed and worn (see Photo 1).
removeable bridge section, this month we flat brush. The main difference here was the The most attention on this section was
shall be moving on to the aft superstructure expanse of steel decking, so the wash there given to the life rafts and the lifeboats.
section, the main deck area and the external was mostly removed and then flooded with Visually these are very prominent, noticeable
hull to deal with, all of which were tackled copious amounts of thinners. This thinner to the even the most casual observer, and it
separately, and concluding this, hopefully, puddled before eventually drying to leave a has to be said that as supplied they looked
helpful two-parter. credible random effect on the flat decking and a little plain.
2 3
Applying the rope was a little fiddly but the effect was well worth the effort. The rope was Securing straps hold the finished life raft down, and some canvas covers are stored in the
glued into holes drilled into the bottom decking to anchor it and make things easier. bottom of the raft.

Make it personal
On completion both rafts looked far more realistic but, unfortunately, they now showed up the lifeboats!
The life rafts were firstly painted to effect

a dark sea grey rubber section and wooden
“Visually these are very prominent, noticeable to
boarding, further enhanced with washes. The even the most casual observer, and it has to
grab ropes were improved by simply gluing be said that as supplied they looked a little plain”
light cord onto the existing rope cast into
the raft (see Photo 2). I considered removing
the cast rope but decided that the amount
of work this would require simply wasn’t
necessary, as the real rope would hide the
existing. With the rope all in place, tie downs
were added, courtesy of an old Action Man
webbing set, as were a few stores, obtained
from 1:48 scale model armour accessory sets
(see Photo 3). Once complete, the two life
rafts looked far more realistic – a surprisingly
satisfying result considering how much effort
I’d had to put in (see Photo 4).
This, of course, then had the knock-on
effect of showing up the rather lack-lustre
lifeboats; in comparison, they now looked
so basic they were absolutely crying out for
some attention. These boats did have a rope
reel fitted but there was only one, rather
than the two fitted to the real vessels. The
davit falls were also reduced to a couple of
pieces of cotton tied around the ends of the
davits, so plenty for room for improvement
(see Photo 5). I decided to concentrate on
the falls and relied on a simple enamel wash
to take the unrealistically bright finish off the
boats themselves. The existing rope reels
were removed and 1:48 scale 3D-printed
plastic replacements were obtained from 5
a Shapeways supplier. These were painted
and weathered, and a much more realistic As supplied the lifeboats looked a little sparse and the davits were very bare. Nothing more than a wash would have
rope was wound around the drum. The falls helped, but Richard decided the davits were crying out for some better falls.

Make it personal
“This technique involves a

significant leap of faith and
is possibly one of the main
reasons many modellers shy
away from weathering”
were made up to replicate a drawing in

one of my Anatomy Of The Ship books by
adapting some suitably sized brass and photo
etched kits to create the correct pulley block
configurations. Again, these were painted Brass turned pulleys and photo-etched pulley cheeks were modified to create the required double pulley at the top and
and weathered and were attached to the single at the bottom. Richard had the manual rope reels 3D printed and has fitted one to each davit. A couple of coils of
davit with a model railway coupling and to rope adds a little interest to the insides of the boat.
the boat with a copper eyelet. A 2mm brass
pulley was also fitted to the side of the davit.
Once the bits were in place, the rope was 7
then threaded round the pulleys and finished
off with a fine brass ferrule, cut from a piece
of brass tube (see Photo 6). Apart from the
addition of some suitable figures, a little
deck clutter – including boxes, ropes and oil
drums (see Photo 7), a white ensign supplied
by BECC (see Photo 8), and a little soot
airbrushed around the funnel top, that was
just about it for the aft superstructure (see
Photo 9).
Main deck
For ease of working, the main deck was
basically dealt with in separate sections: the
aft deck, the raised foc’s’le and the midships
portion.
The most glaring omission from the
aft deck, and one of the main reasons for
starting this project in the first place, was
the lack of bulwark stays. The plain bulwarks
simply didn’t look right and had an almost
bare appearance. My bulwark stays were Figures, oil drums, wooden crates and rope coils all contribute to the busy feel of the deck and really help bring the model
made from Evergreen plastic strip, cut to to life.
length with appropriate angled slices and
superglued in place. Once this had set,
short sections of Evergreen angle were then 8 9
cut and glued to the sides of the stays with
polystyrene cement to create a fairly typical
stay. Guidance for the arrangement and
spacing was, once again, taken from my
Anatomy Of the Ship book (see Photo 10).
Once fitted, the stays were painted in a light
grey colour. The aft deck was then given a
wash before patches were picked out with
red lead coloured paint to simulate primed
areas of deck waiting to be to be coated in a
fairly typical marine fashion.
The midships section received little more
than a wash to bring it in line with the other A white ensign is a must for a Royal Navy ship. Richard This is the only part of the project that Richard used his
components, with a similar treatment given crumpled his to give it a more relaxed feel and added just airbrush for. He particularly recommends an airbrush for soot
to the steel decking area. A suitable figure a light wash to take the starkness out of the white. Scale effects, as you can achieve a very soft, gentle shading. Careful
was also fitted into the crow’s nest. rope and pulleys make a huge difference as well. use of pigments, however, can create a similar effect.

Make it personal
10
A good deal of patience was required for this task. The bulwarks looked very bare to start with, so a set of bulwark stays really had to be included. Note how plasticky the other
parts looked before a little weathering was applied.
The area that probably received most

attention, mainly because it looked so
stark and bare initially, was the foc’s’le.
Work here commenced with an overall
wash, removed as previously with vertical
strokes, to all the equipment lockers and
bulkheads, following the wood grain on
the decking. Then the detail painting was
applied. This consisted of a good bit of
work on the anchor winch to pick out the
existing detail and enhance prominent
areas such as the gear teeth (see Photo
11). The anchor chain as fitted was not
studded, so correct scale studded chain
was fitted over the winch wheels, into the
chain locker and down the hawse pipes.
The chain was then painted so as to create
a weathered appearance, as typically
evidenced on heavily used anchors and
11
chains. I also noticed that the original chain
wasn’t fitted with any form of stopper, The winch gear was crying out for some detailed painting, but the figure holding the handle, wooden wedges and oil can on
whereas the Anatomy Of The Ship revealed the deck adds nicely to the feel of the scene.
that a wire and bottle screw type stopper
was used. I therefore made up my own from
small brass bottle screws and fine cotton 12
painted up to resemble wires; these were
attached to the chain with 14 BA screws
and nuts and the deck with eyelets (see
Photo 12). The mooring rope reels as fitted
were removed and dismantled before
having a more scale size and colour rope
wound round them, after which they were
reassembled and refitted. The ropes had a
loop made in the ends and were then laid
around the warping ends and the bollards
in an appropriate arrangement. Next, a
figure was positioned as if operating the
mooring winch handles, with a couple of oil
drums and some wooden wedges scattered
around as though maintenance is under
way. The officer in charge has lost interest,
however, and is studying the horizon, just The anchor chain was replaced with proper scale studded chain and painted up to look rusty. Stoppers were clearly shown
in case he might spot the odd U-Boat (see in Richard’s reference book as the bottle screw and wire type, so these were assembled from bits and pieces and painted
Photo 13). up with steel-coloured enamel.

Make it personal
13
14
For the hull exterior, again, the first step was an

all-over wash applied frighteningly liberally, even down
to the keel. Richard still has “I hope to goodness it
comes off” flashbacks!
The finished fore deck, with some ropes added and an officer leaning over the handrails thinking of better times. 15
You soon get into a rhythm of doing just a couple of strokes

“This process involved the use of oil paints, as they’re relatively slow before wiping your brush on kitchen roll. Dry your brush,
drying and so give you plenty of working time” add fresh thinners, and then dry again, before another
couple of strokes on the model. If you don’t clean your
brush, your finish soon goes muddy and horrible.
Outside the hull

The biggest expanse of area by a long way was 16
obviously the outside of the hull and so, being
such a large model, a plan of attack was laid out
to ensure consistency with both sides. I wanted
the hull to look a little bit grubbier and more
worn than the superstructure, with a few dirty
streaks apparent, as in reality it would receive
far less attention from the crew. Likewise, small
areas of rust should be discernable, while not
looking too heavy. I also knew I wanted to add
draught marks, as these were evident in most
photos of Corvettes. The plan, therefore, was
to lay the hull almost flat on a row of cushions,
to give access to a full half, which of course it
didn’t want to do, so had to be held in place
with liberal quantities of Frog Tape. With it
finally secure, I was able to make a start.
First up was the overall wash. If I thought
that doing the wash on the bridge was a leap
of faith, smothering half the hull with wash
stirred up even more intense “You must be
mad” self-doubts (see Photo 14). But onwards,
and once the wash had dried, the job of
removing it all was next. This time I made a
point of not removing quite as much as I had
on the top sides, and deliberately allowed
the wash to streak around the details such as
port holes and plate details (see Photo 15).
Interestingly, it also picked out the edges of
the camouflage paint and very effectively
enhanced the platework (see Photo 16). With
the brush needing to be wiped off every couple
of strokes, this process probably took a couple
of hours, and to ensure consistency I wanted
to do it all in one go, so the day had to be
planned around it. Eventually, though, the wash
was finished, and it was given a few days to You are in control; take as much wash off as you want. Richard particularly wanted to achieve noticeable streaks around
thoroughly dry out. details such as port holes. He also wanted the plate edges enhanced.

Make it personal
17
Note the random pieces of Frog tape placed on the edges of hull plating where rust frequently forms.
Once I was happy that the enamel wash

had completely dried it was time to turn 18
attentions to the application of rust marks.
I particularly wanted to avoid heavy rust
marks; the aim was to achieve just a few
small patches, as would be typical for such
a ship. This process involved the use of oil
paints, as they’re relatively slow drying and
so give you plenty of working time. The
method is to first apply some masking tape
to the edges of hull plate panels where
rust tends to form (see Photo 17). This
done, a selection of suitably coloured oil
paints needs to be placed on a palette and
a little piece of sponge dabbed into your
paints randomly to pick up small quantities
(see Photo 18). The paint is then dabbed
onto the hull plating along the edge of the
masking tape and other such rust forming
areas, such as wash ports, etc (see Photo
19). When you’re happy with the placing of
the paint, the next step is to again use the Richard’s palette for suitably coloured oil paints, with some mixed and some separated. These were applied with a small
soft flat brush, moistened with turpentine, to piece of fine sponge, grasped by a pair of tweezers.
drag your rust-coloured paint downwards.
Again, the more you drag, the more the
paint will be washed away, so it’s up to you 19 20
how much rust effect you want to leave.
Once the effect has achieved the level you
are looking for you can remove the masking
tape (see Photo 20).
The next job was the draught marks.
I purchased a set of 1:48 scale Roman
Numeral draught marks from BECC and then
had a think how best to apply them. Ideally,
I’d wanted proper water slide transfers, but
I needed them to be perfectly shaped to the
hull with the correct height and spacing so I The paint on the little sponge is transferred to the edges When your turpentine-dampened brush is dragged
first of all drew a bow template on a piece of of the Frog tape and to areas likely to show rust, such as downwards it will create the vertical rust streaks so
paper, then had a play with setting out the around wash ports. typically seen on ship’s hull plating.

Make it personal
21 22
This was then used to create a Word document that

reproduced the spacing, size and lettering of the template.
A set of 1:48 scale BECC draught marks was used to create the shape, size and spacing required for Richard’s model.
cut up BECC numbers onto this paper (see softening and setting solutions onto a panel
Photo 21). Once happy with all the spacing, that had been pre-painted with a clear gloss
shape and arrangement I started to recreate varnish to ensure they settled properly (see
this in a Word document. After much trial and Photo 24). Once that was done and allowed
error and many printed pieces of paper later, to thoroughly dry out, the top of the hull
I eventually came up with an arrangement of was masked off and the entire hull side was
numerals in the Word document that I was sprayed with a clear matt acrylic varnish to
happy with (see Photo 22). This could then protect everything and to hide the transfer
be arranged to take up the minimum space backing film (see Photo 25). When that
on the document, converted into a .pdf file was thoroughly dry it was time to turn the 23
and sent away to a company called Precision hull over and do the other side. Apart from
Labels, who would convert the document furnishing with a few more bits and pieces, The Word document was changed into a .pdf document
into a waterslide transfer (see Photo 23). such as the odd pulley, ropes, and stores, that and a transfer sheet was printed off from it. It was even
The resulting transfers were applied with was just about the job done. possible to produce a couple of spares in case of accident.
24
The finished result once the transfer had been applied 25

with softening and setting solution. A panel of clear
gloss was applied first to help prevent silvering of the To seal and protect everything and to give the transfers a uniform matt appearance, the entire hull side was sprayed with a matt
transfer backing film. acrylic clear varnish.

Make it personal
26
LEFT: By turning the model from a very

plasticky-looking toy to an authentic- 27
looking scale vessel, its presence on the
water has been dramatically improved.
While a fair bit of time was put into this
makeover, none of the work undertaken
required a high level of skill.
Over to you…
One of the aspects of modelling that I
particularly enjoy is painting, detailing and
weathering, so this project was right up my
street. My purpose in putting together this
two-part feature, however, was to show how
a standard, out-of-the-box, Ready-To-Run
model can be turned into a very personalised
and detailed model that will really stand out
from the crowd. You can, of course, do less
than I did and still achieve a very satisfying
result. Conversely, you could do a whole
lot more and take things to a completely
different level. It’s entirely up to you. The
thing is, even if you do nothing more than
apply an overall wash, the resulting model is
bound to look significantly better than the
one you initially took out of the box (see
Photo 26 and Photo 27). ●
RIGHT: A view from above shows the

deck detail to its best advantage. Just
remember, weathering is not about making
a model look dirty, it’s about making a
model look real.

Angle of attack
“Yes, 20 degrees may seem a

little excessive, but…”
GET IN
LINE!
Glynn Guest shares the
results of some interesting
angle coupling experiments
I
was once complimented on just how Experimental ‘equipment’ Adjusting the angle between the shafts
fast my model of a wartime cruiser could Luckily, being a true modeller, there was was to be achieved by securing one end of
travel, despite having what the gentleman a generous stock of ‘stuff’ stashed in the the timber to the MDF base with a screw.
making the remark thought was a small motor corners of the workshop. I wasn’t looking for This screw would be placed on a centreline
of modest power. This surprised me at first anything complex. I quickly found a motor, a previously drawn on my base to represent the
since nothing I’d done seemed to be out of ‘bog standard’ 540 type and fitted this into zero and located underneath what would be
the ordinary. The model’s motor and propeller a mount, which in turn I screwed down on the middle of the coupling. Here I hit a problem
shafts were aligned and connected by a free a piece of MDF. This allowed to a propeller as the screw head would have fouled some of
moving coupling; the propeller shaft’s tube tube to be secured to a piece of timber, the couplings planned for these tests. However,
was filled with oil – having learnt the hard using a couple of commercial plastic tube a little cutting and sanding reduced the timber’s
way that stiff grease is a performance killer; holders. When this was placed on the MDF, thickness and resolved this. The corners were
and a few minutes experimenting in the first the motor and propeller shafts had perfect also rounded to ensure that they would not
sailing trials had found the best propeller for vertical alignment. catch the motor mount at the larger angles
this motor/model combination. A little later
and I discovered that not everyone takes
this approach – some rectifying any lack of
performance with the ‘power, more power’
method.
Idle thought
While setting up the alignment of motor and
propeller shafts in a recent model, I recalled
some of the distinctly ‘bent’ drivelines I’d seen
people happily use in their models. This made
me wonder if all the care and effort I spent on
this task was really necessary. In a few of my
models the shafts had to be fitted at a small
angle to each other and the models didn’t
seem to suffer in any obvious way.
This should have been recognised as some
dangerous thinking on my part, but the idea
of testing motor-propshaft coupling methods
wouldn’t go away. As soon as some free time
occurred, it was into the workshop to knock-up
a suitable test rig: the plan being to see what
increasing the angle between the shafts would
make in terms of extra load on the motor.

Angle of attack
“I feel this is worth mentioning as,

while it may seem obvious, it’s a
precaution that’s easy to forget”
Before screwing my piece of timber

holding the propellor tube back in place other
reference lines were drawn on the base; these
ran from the screw position to represent angles
of 5 to 20 degrees of misalignment (see Photo
1). Yes, 20 degrees may seem a little excessive
but, when doing such experiments, it’s much
easier to build in more range than you might
have originally expected to use than trying to
add to it later.
Testing time
The motor and propeller tube bearings were
kept lubricated throughout these tests to
ensure that any minor effects wouldn’t become
a problem (I feel this is worth mentioning as,
while it may seem obvious, it’s a precaution
that’s easy to forget). with this coupling is that it’s not a constant diameter sizes: 8 mm and 11 mm. The smaller
Another point frequently checked during velocity type; that is, when forced to operate size could fit directly onto the shafts and gave
these tests was that the centre of each through an angle, even if the motor runs results comparable to the previous couplings.
coupling was directly over the screw in the at a constant speed, the output shaft has a The larger silicone tubing, on the other hand,
timber, otherwise the driveline would not cyclic speed variation. This probably accounts had to be fitted onto the brass inserts used
have had just a simple angular misalignment. for the rising current values with increasing in the Universal couplings before it could
Due to differences between the coupling misalignment. To be fair, the increase was be secured to the shafts. It actually gave the
lengths, the motor mount had to be moved a quite modest, going from zero to 5 degrees largest motor current increases (although
couple of times but was always remained on (I was using a large-scale analogue ammeter, comparable to the Universal). This could be due
the centreline. otherwise this could have been missed), to energy absorbed in the repeated bending
The testing method was to connect the although there’s a noticeable effect at forwards and backwards (hysteresis losses) as
motor, via an ammeter, to a large capacity larger angles. opposed to friction between sliding surfaces.
6-volt battery. The free-running current (i.e., A Double Universal type (in effect two singles
not connected to a coupling or propeller shaft) in line) was tried next, in an attempt to reduce Conclusions
was found to be 0.65 amps. The motor was the cyclic speed variation problem. This worked Before trying to draw any conclusion, it must be
then connected to the coupling and the current much better and produced only a modest pointed out that during these tests the motor
drawn noted at the five angles to be tested. increase in current up to 15 degrees. and propeller shafts, even when at an angle
Any extra effort caused by the coupling or the The ball and socket coupling, which many to each other, were in the same plane. Any
angle it was working at would be shown by an might regard as ‘old-fashioned’, proved to three-dimensional misalignment would make
increase in the current reading on the meter. A be surprisingly good, if a little noisy. This had a coupling’s job much more difficult. Also, the
minute or so running was allowed at each angle hardly any slowing effect, even at 20 degrees of motors maximum speed during the test would
before the current was recorded. misalignment. have been around 9000 rpm, and at higher
If that proved surprising then the dog bone speeds things might be different.
Results coupling, basically two back-to-back ball and All of the coupling methods tested had
Six different couplings (see Photo 2) were sockets, was amazing. No alteration in the little effect, if any, when the two shafts were
tested at five different angles. The results are motors current could be detected at any angle. misaligned by no more than 5 degrees, even
shown in my table. Silicone rubber tubing is often used to 10 degrees in some cases. All were capable
The first coupling tested was the common connect motor and propeller shafts. In these of operating up to an angle of 20 degrees,
Universal or Cardan/Hooke type. One problem experiments I tried two different outside which is probably way beyond what we
modellers might expect to use. Having said
that, I now await a flood of correspondence
Current Drawn (A) from people who regularly misalign shafts by
30 degrees or more!
Coupling Types Degrees Misalignment So, provided the coupling is strong enough
to transmit the power from the motor to the
0 5 10 15 20 propeller, you ought to be able to use any of
these couplings with some confidence. The
Universal 0.75 0.78 0.82 0.96 1.06 qualifier ‘ought’ has to be included, as nothing
is ‘fool-proof’ against a really determined fool!
Double Universal 0.70 0.71 0.74 0.77 0.85 As for me, I’m happy to use Silicone tubing
with motors such as the RE 385 types and, with
Ball and Socket 0.67 0.68 0.70 0.70 0.70 care, 380/400/540 types. The Double Universal
is still preferred over the Single Universal, if only
Dog Bone 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.65 0.65 because it usually makes installations easier. A
particularly pleasing discovery for me is that all
Si Tube (8mm) 0.65 0.66 0.67 0.68 0.71 the ball and socket plus dog bone couplings
I’ve had lying in the bottom of a drawer for
Si Tube (8mm) 0.75 0.80 0.87 0.99 1.25 some time can finally be found a use for –
they’re too good to waste! ●

Memory Lane
Big
stuff
An Aero version of Colonel Taplin’s
first twin, ready to go with a 12 x
6-inch Rev-Up, and original papers.
Dave Wiggins recalls the

days of having it large…
W
hen I first began writing on vintage in what I called (back then) ‘The Great Little
topics for Model Boats, well over Engines of Kent’ and I was, together with a
25 years ago now, after doing a friend, at that time rebuilding a number of “Though not inexpensive (£10
couple of years on a sister publication Radio Taplin-Twin marine diesels. This successful
Controlled Boat Modeller, the history of radio- enterprise led on naturally to us doing the was serious money in 1959), this
control electronics and of model marine power same with this engine’s main competitor big new engine was an immediate
were my main themes, and, if my postbag was during the 1960s – the overhead valve
anything to judge by, very popular themes GANnet petrol engine. Let’s start by looking
success with users of both free
they were too. I was especially interested briefly back at these two products. running and R/C boats”
A brace of fully restored 7cc Taplin-Twin Mk 1

engines from 1959 The marine engine has a
slightly later needle valve fitted, whereas that on
the aero engine is the first type made.

Memory Lane
“The Mk 3 has been

replicated and reintroduced
out in India, making life
a bit difficult for collectors
looking for genuine Kent-
built examples”
Restored examples of a Mk
2 double ender and a Mk 3
twin (both of 8cc).
Colonel H.J. ‘Taps’ Taplin and to, say, the 5cc ETA-29 then favoured for the ball coupling originally supplied before
his famous patented ‘Twin’ first few British R/C aerobatic aircraft. All the Birchington designed its own universal) is of
Lt Colonel Harold ‘Taps’ Taplin, a specialist in same, some aircraft modellers did employ note as it came to me directly from George
‘wire drawing’ (the manufacture of fine wires the engine in scale models as it looked so Goodfellow, who was a member of the Herne
in precious metals), had been a Royal Flying much more realistic than anything then on Bay club as well as a friend of the family.
Corps Engineering Officer during World War the market. The aero engine is an especially desirable
I and an LDV Officer during World War II. object nowadays and is shown fitted with a
His first 7cc Taplin-Twin, manufactured down Our examples wooden propeller as recommended by the
on the Kent Coast at Birchington on Sea in The two 7cc greenheads pictured are manufacturer.
Thanet was designed and launched in 1959 both from the first production batch of The Mk I twin was built and sold in quantity
after he’d had spent a year or two tinkering 200(ish) manufactured that year, having until replaced by an improved all ball and
with small, twin cylinder, in-line prototypes serial numbers of 206 (aero) and W157 roller raced/red headed/8cc Mk 2 with hard
using cylinders and pistons sourced from E.D. (W prefixes all marine engine numbers). chromed bores and, after the Colonels death,
2cc diesels married to his own crankshaft The marine engine (seen with the Ripmax by a clever dual-purpose air- or water-cooled
design – the subject of a patent resulting. final development, the 8cc Mk 3, which
This was, as far as I’m aware, the world’s only was built, along with a small single cylinder
patent-protected model engine design of engine called the ‘Tempest’, by Taps’ eldest
the period. I’ve viewed the patent myself and son John at a factory in Margate – the Dinton
it’s the central crankshaft set up that is the Engineering Co Ltd. The Mk 3 has been
subject of the patent. replicated and reintroduced out in India,
This early experimental work was much making life a bit difficult for collectors looking
covered in the good old Aeromodeller for genuine Kent-built examples.
magazine, as well as in the Model Maker
magazine of the period, and the first
production batch of 7cc ‘Twins’ was launched
in both air- and water-cooled versions during Col. Harold Taplin’s biggest engine:
1959. Some parts for these very early Taplins a 15cc ‘Big Twin’, restored by Dave.
may have been sourced from E.D. Ltd (Taps
and Jack Ballard of E.D. were friendly and
Taps was a user of the early E.D, radios) in
order to save time, and it must be said that
the cylinder heads do look like E.D, parts.
Even Taps choice of 3.46cc for his bores
suggests inspiration from the popular 3.46cc
E.D. Hunter, but this is just speculation.
Though not inexpensive (£10 was serious
money in 1959), this big new engine was an
immediate success with users of both free
running and R/C boats, though rather less so
with aero modellers as it was bulky compared
to any ‘single’ and was low revving compared

Memory Lane
“Today, they are highly

collectable and all fetch
A selection of Taplin top prices, especially
accessory items when air-cooled”
‘Taps’ was perhaps a touch unlucky with Taplins ‘BIG’ Twin pistons in order to reach a 14cc total. They
the timing of his improved Mk 2 engine as and the ‘Hydrojet’ proved successful and I imagine Colonel
by then large glow-plug engines were selling The 15cc Taplin ‘Big Twin’ was based on Taplin got the idea for a larger production
well. For this reason, air-cooled 8cc redheads the family’s experience racing a Straight-4 twin from these 4-cylinder jobs. Those of
are rare as the R/C aircraft guys were ‘going custom-built diesel in European contests in us who tried to use a 15cc Taplin, however,
glow’ in a big way by the late ‘60s and not search of speed records. These exotic sometimes found them hard going. Certainly,
many were sold. In the model boat world, it creations were assembled for family they weren’t the easy first-time starters that
was the opposite, as lots of (hugely popular) and close friends, being built as one- the 7 and 8cc engines were.
Mk 2 water-cooled twins were sold to us offs using four (Mk I) cylinders and A more unusual item made by the firm
boaters. There are thus plenty of survivors, was the New Zealand-originated Taplin-
including examples with double ended drive Baker ‘Hydrojet’, designed by Ross Baker – a
shafts, in which form the Taplin-Twin is a water pump propulsion system well suited to
virtually perfect marine power plant for a the 7/8cc Taplin but just as usable with 5cc
large vintage cabin cruiser. diesels like the E.D, ‘Miles’; a fair number of
It is perhaps difficult now to comprehend these jet units were sold as novelty items.
just how a low revving/side port induction They had, if my memory is correct, a bit
engine like the Taplin could attract such of a reputation for wearing out bearings,
applause throughout the ‘go ahead’ 1960s, but were ideal in shallow water, as well
but the model boat scene then was very as great fun to operate.
different to today. I think that the biggest
selling point enjoyed by Birchington is also
the simplest for us to appreciate. It had a
handsome, scale-looking twin cylinder on sale
when no one else did, and this chimed with a A restored example of the standard
need for reliability, easy starting, good speed 15cc GANnet OHV with its matching
control and smooth running, all of which are
T/T attributes. And let’s not forget, model
engines were no more than a hobby sideline
for this family-owned factory whose core
business was elsewhere.
The appeal of the first two T/T models
was instant at pond-sides across the country
and this great engine was much fitted in R/C
and free-running boats for the next 20 years.
Today, they are highly collectable and all
fetch top prices, especially when air-cooled.

Memory Lane
George Nurthen’s
petrol GANnet
Thanet’s other large marine engine, the
4-stroke 15cc overhead valve petrol Gannet,
was built in a small workshop at nearby
Whitstable by the partnership of Nurthen and
Muirhead. The mere fact of being a 4-stroke
sparkie made the Gannet stand out amongst
commercially built model engines back in
the early ‘60s. Aside from the old Channel
Island 10cc (which was mostly sold as a set of
castings), the 15cc Gannet bucked the trend
in a universally 2-stroke and (mostly) diesel
and glow-plug world.
Although the Gannet had the same
capacity as a ‘Big’ Twin, the two engines
are not comparable. Taplins were readily
available, being built in quantity on factory
assembly ‘lines’ at Birchington or Margate,
whereas George Nurthen advertised rarely
and built his engines one at a time to
individual order or in very small runs for sale
through RipMax Ltd of London. That said, Two pieces of archival
the two engines competed head-to-head in paperwork from the
the bigger R/C boat classes then popular, May1959 Aeromodeller
as well as in free-running competition, for magazine
many years, and both survive in fair numbers
today. Later, working with new partner Ivor
Morgan, George introduced a magneto
equipped version of his single cylinder
engine, and examples of this still pop up
for sale today, usually with non-functioning
magnetos – the reason being loss of
magnetism in the old magnets.
There were also one or two (probably no
more) OHV and side valve GAN twins built
at Whitstable, at least one of which was
campaigned by Max Coote, owner of RipMax
Ltd, with some success in his boat Lutece
as well as a prototype glow-plug engine.
I’ve seen photographs of Mr Cootes ‘twin’
courtesy of RipMax Ltd but have never seen “The 15cc
a glow GANnet. At the same time, a couple
of other big glow and/or petrol model marine
Gannet bucked
engines, trademarked as the Force-10 and the trend in
ELJO, were on the UK market, but, again, I’ve
yet to see an example of either.
a universally
2-stroke and
Taplin and GAN (mostly) diesel
accessory items
The Birchington Engineering Co. Ltd and glow-plug
designed and made an attractive range of world”
general accessories for its engines, including
a tinplate silencer and fuel tank, a nice
universal coupling, an equally nice 2.5-inch
stainless steel propeller and two early reed
R/C steering actuators (the Minnitron and him by Pathé are well worth seeing if you George Nurthen also manufactured some
Navigator). All of these items sold well to can) as well as a professional mechanical nice accessories for his GANnet, and these
boat modellers who were using a wide variety engineer and very active campaigner on included a choice of float chambers (for
of early radio and propulsion gear – not the British and European regatta scene, and gravity feed), couplings, lubricators, petrol
just Birchington products. ‘Taps’ Taplin was he made sure that his accessory range was and oil tanks and stainless exhausts. All,
actually quite an entrepreneur and publicist widely advertised and affordable to as many however, were as expensive as the GANnet
(the two cinema newsreels made about enthusiasts as possible. engine itself. ●

Steam Basics Pt. 139
After the first sea trial and realising that a bit of heat into the gas tank would be useful, location of the gas tank close to the boiler looked quite promising.
Richard Simpson explains the purpose and advantages of a typical heat

shunt and shares some recent hands-on installation experience
T
he December 2014 instalment of Boiler tank with a heating coil running through the performance suffered accordingly. Somehow,
Room focused on heat shunts and their bottom of it to (my personal favourite) simply I wanted to get a little waste heat into the
usage. That, of course, was a very long mounting the gas tank and the boiler on a gas tank to try and combat the effects of the
time ago now. Consequently, when I came common brass base to allow heat to transfer tank cooling down during a run. Mounting
across the need for such a thing recently, I through the base in order to gently warm the the boiler and the gas tank on a common
thought it might be interesting to revisit the tank. Sometimes, however, these approaches base wasn’t possible as they were both on
subject and share a ‘real world’ example of are not convenient to arrange, which brings us completely different levels. The gas tank
just what a heat shunt can do and how one back to the idea of a heat shunt. was close to the boiler, however, so the idea
can be created. When I first tested out my Hereward of some sort of heat shunt became more
We’ve discussed many times over the years open launch on the water (see the June to attractive (see Photo 1).
the challenge of the gas in our gas tanks September 2022 instalments of Boiler Room
cooling down as it evaporates, thereby slowing for the building of this model), because of “Somehow, I wanted to
down evaporation rates, and, of course, the the design and self-imposed constraints of
options open to us when trying to reduce this space and size I ended up with a heavy gas
get a little waste heat into the
effect – one possibility being to try and replace demand from the two poker burners in the gas tank to try and combat the
the heat that’s lost through evaporation. I’ve boiler and a relatively small disposable 100g effects of the tank cooling
seen numerous ideas employed over the years, gas tank. Consequently, the cooling effect
including everything from a home-made gas was quite noticeable on trials and the burner down during a run”

The idea of using the separator tank to heat the gas tank was incorporated into the design right from the start. In this case a saddle made from cut up copper pipe silver soldered to a
chunk of copper bar worked very well.
A quick reminder of
what a heat shunt is
A heat shunt is basically a solid piece of
a material that has good heat transfer
properties and is physically attached to a
heat source. Heat will then transfer through
the material by conduction and the principles
of heat moving from a hotter area to a colder
area and will effectively add heat to whatever
it is you want to warm up. Heat shunts are
a very effective way of making the most of
various waste heat sources, such as non-
insulated boiler surfaces, flue gasses and
even exhaust steam pipe work, and can be
used for various purposes, such as to pre-
heat feed water or to replace heat lost due
to evaporation in the gas tank. The control
of the heat flow can be directed by use of
insulation to ensure that heat only enters the
material at one end and is available at the
other end with minimal waste by conduction
along the heat transfer path. Photo 2 shows 3
a heat shunt I fitted to a previous model,
where insulated sections of copper pipe The raw materials, a couple of 90mm copper discs beautifully cut and perfectly flat, a length of 12mm by 1mm copper bar
and thick bar carry the heat from the hot and a few 10 BA nuts and bolts.
separator tank across to the gas tank.
would then be incorporated into the gas then simply be joined together with another
tank base, so allow the same easy access to piece of copper strip. This seemed to be
“This seemed to be the the gas tank for changing them out. I had the basis of a sound design, which would
basis of a sound design…” a good look around and discovered that transfer heat nicely from the boiler throat
I could buy a copper disc of the correct to the base of the gas tank. All exposed
The design diameter for the tank base of 90mm, as well surfaces would then be insulated to force
In this particular model, the arrangement as copper strip of a correct width, 12mm, the heat in the direction of the tank base. I
of the burner and the gas tank seemed to to fit a recess in the boiler burner throat didn’t actually expect the amount of heat to
me to lend itself to somehow physically exactly. I could bend the strip into a curve, be significant, but any amount of low-quality
connecting the burner throat, which gets to or saddle, to fit the throat, which I could waste heat would be beneficial and would
quite a temperature, with a heat radiating then arrange to be at the correct level to help reduce the rate at which the gas tank
base that the gas tank could sit on. This line up with the copper disc. The two could cooled down as the gas was used.

Bending is all about pre-planning. In this case the saddle was bent first to just
4 the right angle to allow it to sit on the burner, then it was bent back to a suitable
angle to allow the straight section to extend to the same level as the disc. Heat
The copper discs fit in the same location as the gas tank perfectly and only lifted the tank 2mm. wasn’t required and it gave in without too much of a fight.
The construction
Having bought the copper disc (well, actually,
as it was only available in a thin plate, I
bought two to give a better heat path), the
copper strip and a few 10 BA brass nuts and
bolts (see Photo 3), I initially toyed with
the idea of soldering these bits together,
but eventually decided that bolting would
eliminate the risk of any distortion due to the
heat involved in soldering, plus it gave me a
little bit more flexibility when assembling so
I could get the location just right. As I was
lucky enough to find copper discs of exactly
the same diameter as the gas tank, they sat
perfectly flat in the same base (see Photo 4).
The next job was to bend the end of the
copper strip into a saddle that would sit
neatly on the top of the burner throat. So, I
6 measured the throat diameter, then found
a piece of scrap copper tube of exactly the
With the bar cut just over length and then joined to the first piece on the disc centre line slight adjustments could be made same diameter and used that as a former
to bend the strip around in a vice. The strip
bent easily enough, without requiring any
warming, which was good. When I had
7 enough of an arc to sit on top of the burner, I
bent that arc to an angle, so that the straight
portion of the strip allowed the saddle to
sit on the throat, with the remainder of the
strip sitting perpendicular to it (see Photo
5). The strip was then cut to just over length
and the two pieces of strip were marked out
and drilled and bolted together to enable the
second section of strip to sit across the centre
line of the copper disc (see Photo 6).
The neatest way of attaching the strip to
the disc was to drill the bolt holes through
the strip, lay it across the top of the copper
discs, mark out the holes in the discs and
then drill the discs while clamped together.
This ensured all the holes lined up perfectly
(see Photo 7). The 10 BA screws were all
fitted with thread lock, and the exposed
threads were removed and dressed up
I’m a great believer in, if it doesn’t have to be millimetre perfect don’t waste time making it so. What is important is that flush with the nuts. Cutting a couple of
the holes line up so marking one part from another always pays dividends. small recesses into the wooden framework

A final check for fit after cutting a couple of neat notches in the woodwork and everything sits down nice and neatly. The screw heads are well within the edge of the tank base so will not
interfere with that.
A final cutting the bits to length and dressing up with a

file and wet and dry paper finishes the metalwork and
makes for a nice neat looking job.
allowed the copper strip to sit neatly, and so

the complete unit now sat perfectly on the
wooden gas tank base and the burner throat
(see Photo 8). The final job was to trim all the
excess bits of strip off and dress up the cuts
with a fine file and some wet and dry paper. 10
It came out better than I thought it would
(see Photo 9) and sat tidily and unobtrusively The final test fit to check the metal work showed everything sat nice and unobtrusively below the tank and over the burner
below the gas tank (see Photo 10). throat. It ended up looking neater than I had expected.

“Basically, it works on the

11
same theory as string vest, for
those that remember them!”
The next task was the insulation to force the
heat flow to where it is needed. The options
here are either an adhesive foam tape type
insulation, an insulating paint, or good old
string and foil tape. I decided the saddle
would be best done with insulating foam tape,
as being black this would blend in better with
the boiler surface, but that the connecting
strip, which would be visible, might look a
little more credible if I used string and foil tape
so that it more closely simulated machinery
space insulation. The copper strip was wound
with string, secured at either end with a spot
of cyanoacrylate glue, and then the adhesive
Wrapping a bit of string around isn’t too challenging but don’t make the string so thick that it causes things to fit poorly. foil tape was wrapped around it. This ensures
Not fitting the wrapping too closely together also allows more air to sit between the string, which assists the insulation. that the air gaps around the string act as the
main component of the insulation and the
tape seals the air in place, making it a very
12 effective insulation – basically, it works on the
same theory as a string vest, for those that
remember them! Don’t be tempted to paint
your string, as this actually removes all the air
and creates a solid layer of paint that then acts
as a good medium for heat transfer, rendering
it pretty useless as an insulating medium.
With the strip insulated, the next step was
to insulate the lower surface of the disc, as I
wanted all the heat to go upwards into the
gas tank. The base was therefore covered with
some more pieces of adhesive foam insulation
to prevent heat loss there (see Photos 11 and
12). With all the insulation in place, the part
still sat neatly underneath the gas tank and
the saddle sat perfectly over the burner throat
(see Photo 13).
The adhesive foil tape then seals in the air as well as protects the string. This technique of insulating machinery
components and pipe work has been used in marine installations for many years and is still used today but using thick Conclusions
insulating cord rather than string. It’s always advantageous to try to get a little
bit of waste heat into the gas tank to slow
down the temperature drop due to gas
13 evaporation. Stopping it would be difficult to
achieve but reducing it can make a significant
difference. Bearing in mind we can also
change out disposable gas tanks and use one
tank to raise steam and then change over to a
warmer tank for on the water, any additional
help from waste heat can only be useful.
With the heat shunt fitted I gave my boiler
a brief run on the workbench and was able
to feel a slight elevation in temperature in
the copper disc. The real value will only be
seen with a run on the water but, whatever
happens, the shunt can only help things and
will certainly have a positive effect.
I would always suggest looking over your
model for opportunities to make the most
of waste heat for whatever purposes you
might have, and to think about just where
you might be able to incorporate a heat
shunt. The best advice, though, is to look
for opportunities in the initial build stage
where perhaps the boiler and gas tank can be
The completed heat shunt sat beneath the gas tank. The only really noticeable part is the insulated piece of copper bar. mounted on a common brass base. Then you
This can then be painted or weathered to match the internals of the model to disguise it further and blend it in even more. can really see some significant effects. ●

All hands on deck!
2
Your Models
Whether you’re highly skilled and experienced or
completely new to the hobby, you’re definitely
invited to this launch party! So please keep the
contributions coming by emailing your stories and
photos to editor@modelboats.co.uk 3
Sunshine Coast fleet I served, and a fifth to accompany my final Tobruk (see Photo 5) are both modelled to
I am a member of the Sunshine Coast Model warship. a scale of 1:72. The first two models have
Boat Club Inc. (SCMBC), and we meet HMAS Derwent – a working model, been donated to the sub branch of the
every Sunday morning between 8am-12pm. converted for static display (see Photo 1), Maroochydore RSL and are now on display
Although warships are not my preferred HMAS Duchess – a static model (see Photo there; Hobart was sold to a former Navy
subject of choice (with the likes of schooners 2) and HMAS Hobart – a working model (see mate; while Tobruk and Balikpapan were
and square riggers considered more pleasing Photo 3) have all been built to 1:64 scale, completed in January 2022, after seven years
to the eye and satisfying to sail), having spent while HMAS Tobruk – a working model (see in construction, and subsequently sold to
20 years of my career in the Royal Australian Photo 4) and HMAS Balikpapan – which the War Memorial in Canberra, Australia, for
Navy I’ve modelled four of the ships on which I built to be sailed in conjunction with display in its Peacekeeping building (to be
completed in due course).
With Tobruk and Balikpapan, I included
quite a few working functions.
Tobruk features opening bow doors,
a ramp that extends out to offload an
Abrams tank, the Australian National Flag
hoisting, port anchor dropping, vehicle deck
ramp lowering to allow offload of crane,
bow thruster, a berthing rod extending
outwards to ‘tie; the model up to the wharf,
the sea ensign hoisting on the mast, the
ship’s callsign in flags hoisting on yardarm,
flag Hotel hoisting on yardarm (operating
helicopter), flag hoist ‘Lima Six Port’ hoisting
on yardarm (telling Balikpapan to come to
the stern ramp), smoke maker, ships’ horn,
two radars rotating at different speeds,
lowering of safety rails around aft flight deck,
flashing red lights on the
Rick with his Royal Australian Navy Battle class destroyer Tobruk.

All hands on deck!
Stylish steamer
Thanks for the recent inclusion of the letter water and gas recharging. There’s still a bit
about our club (Kenwith Castle Model Boat of tarting up to do but that will have to wait
Club). We’re very fortunate to have the use till I’m in the mood!
of a large (probably 10,000 m2) and deep TIM GIBBS
lake, with little or no weed, in the grounds KENWITH CASTLE MBC
of a local care home. BIDEFORD
This steamer is my first model for over
55 years. It’s a modified version of a Deans
Marine’s ‘semi-kit’. It has 4-channel R/C to Lovely to see the craftsmanship that’s gone
include whistle and gas control and runs into this build, Tim. She’s going to look so
well with a 50mm diameter /51mm pitch stylish cruising that beautiful lake of yours!
propeller for about 25 minutes between Ed.
Another of Rick’s clever and useful build is this floating wharf.
helicopter, rotating rotors on helicopter, and

a stern ramp lowering to offload an Abrams
tank to Balikpapan. The model also sports
working radar. I was going to have the large
Velle Derrick operating, but after painting
and greasing, etc, it decided not to play the
ball without problems; the idea, however,
had been that this derrick would offload
the LCM8 (see Photo 6) over the side, sail
around, and be retrieved. Likewise, it had
been my original, but unfulfilled, intention to
incorporate a 1.5 kg lead ‘anchor’ that could
be lowered from beneath the hull at the same
time the port anchor was dropped while the
tank transfer ‘at sea’ between both models
took place.
Balikpapan has a bow ramp lowering, the
Australian National Flag hoisting, the ship’s
callsign in flags hoisting on the yardarm, and
rotating radar.
On completion of both models, a club
member, Brian Carson, produced a YouTube
video of six minutes duration, which can be
viewed at by keying ‘HMAS Tobruk – 1/72
scale radio control ship’ into the search
engine. Nautilus
I hope in sharing these builds I will perhaps I thought you and fellow readers the application of a dapping punch.
inspire more modellers to think, and build, might like to see my model of Captain The port lights were sourced from
outside the box. Happy sailing! Nemo’s submarine Nautilus from the watch and pocket watch crystals of
RICK MAYES movie 20,000 Leagues Under The varying sizes.
QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA Sea. With an overall length of 1.37m, I MICK WAIN
scratch built her entirely from brass to DEVONPORT, TASMANIA
scale of 1:42 (determined by the brass
You are an incredible modeller, Rick! I, and I dome-headed rivets).
am sure everyone reading, would love to see The pressure hatches were made What a masterpiece! She’s absolutely
more of your work. I am sure a ‘how to’ style by annealing (multiple times) and with stunning, Mick. Ed.
feature on that floating wharf would go down
a storm too. Ed.

All hands on deck!
John Grabyn’s 1:1 ski boat Soopa Snail.
Soopa Snail V first attempt with an airbrush (I was too tight

Some 30 years I repainted our 1:1 ski boat to pay a sign writer!). The model performs
Soopa Snail V as we were going to race it in very realistically on the water, especially since
the Murray River Ski Races with our son. Sadly, upgrading to a brushless motor.
this never eventuated, but I decided to make JOHN GRABYN
a radio-controlled model of it as a keepsake AUSTRALIA
at the time. We still have both the model and
the original (now gathering dust). The model Wow, your model perfectly captures the look,
was scratch built from my own design in balsa, detail and spirit of the real thing! The Soopa
with a Kyosho Dolphin outboard (there you Snail name and artwork really made me smile
go, John Parker, another oldie!). You’ll spot too, as it immediately brings mind the old
I’ve added figures representing my wife and fantasy designs by Matchbox Superfast (e.g.,
son, with my wife depicted shooting video Dragular, Big Banger, Tyre Fryer, Stretcha
footage of the onboard action, something we Fetcha, etc). Please, don’t hesitate to keep
found to be a great training aid in real life. the input coming; your builds will always be
The deck mural is also my own handywork, my very welcome on these pages. Ed.
Soopa Snail the R/C model, built from balsa to John’s own design and fitted with a Kyosho Dolphin outboard – and we’re loving that, oh, so ‘70s artwork!

All hands on deck!
HMAS Diamantina
I regularly buy the magazine and was recently (1:8th to the inch) and by referencing photos of the
delighted to see George Empson’s model of the ship when she was commissioned as K337 In April
Diamantina featured in the Your Models section. 1945. Some of the fittings were 3D-printed courtesy
Having been introduced to the Maritime Museum of Shapeways, while others were purchased from
in Brisbane by my father, who served on HMAS model boat fitting ships here in Australia or built
Australia during World II, I became a volunteer from scratch.
there myself, helping to restore the Diamantina BRUCE FINCH
in dry dock. Many old salts worked there too, so I AUSTRALIA
had the privilege of learning from a really friendly,
helpful, and knowledgeable bunch of co-volunteers. All that work on the real thing has
Unfortunately, for health reasons, I had to give obviously paid off big time. She’s a
up this role a couple of years ago, but I still have beauty, Bruce. Ed.
an interest in all things maritime and continue to
support the museum.
My model off Diamantina, which is just over
3ft long and took oer five years to complete, was
scratchbuilt from plans drawn to the 1:96 scale
Neptune RIB
I thought I’d share a on YouTube (https://
couple of pics of the new www.youtube.com/
RIB [Rigid Inflatable Boat] watch?v=1rDcx4CcvC4)
model I’ve just finished, COLIN BASSHAM
which is based on one EMAIL
of the Irish Neptune
RIBs. Video footage
of the model in action Nice work. Just watched
can now be viewed footage. Very nippy! Ed.

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Your Letters
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Horncastle, Lincs LN9 6JR
Plant points
The February 2023 instalment of Boiler Room
focusing on the new Econo Plant was very
interesting, showing a neat and apparently
well engineered package with the boiler
burner assembly being an integral part of
the boiler base, thus allowing a very compact
overall arrangement. I would, however, offer a
few comments…
With a small boiler, such as this, one is
always struggling to conserve heat so lagging
the boiler and the steam pipe would be a
practical as well a visual improvement.
There is also an issue to consider with
these vertical cross tube boilers – the
effective heating area depends to some
extent on the water level, so when it gets very reasons you suggest. If I was to use the “As regards the duration,
below about half glass the steam production plant in a model, then that is something that I there are many other factors as well as the
starts falling off. However, my main concern would always do. capacity to also take into consideration
would be the practical run time available “I understand your comment as regards the if plants are to be compared. For a given
from this package. The specification says available heating surface being reduced as engine bore and stroke steam demand can
about 15 minutes, but I only get about 25 water level reduces with this type of boiler vary significantly depending on many things,
from my installation, which has the same – however, I think in all fairness, this occurs such as hull characteristics and size, propeller
11x11mm size engine but with a boiler nearly with any design of tubed boiler, both model size, engine efficiency and even the manner
nine times the capacity. Perhaps I have a very and in real life. This is just as relevant for and speed in which the models are operated,
inefficient engine or, as Richard suggests, water tube and smoke tube, cross tubed and so again a very subjective comparison. I
I should have bought this package first to linear, so there has to be a point below which would suggest however that, if your boiler
practice getting the best duration and then I the efficiency falls off so much as to cause is in the region of 675 ml with an oscillating
could run for over two hours! concern. Actually measuring and evaluating engine of those dimensions, powering a
TIM GIBBS this point would probably be quite subjective typical sized boat for that plant, then 25
BIDEFORD with most model boilers and will, of course, minutes duration is about what I would
always be a compromise between this and expect. I strongly suspect however that your
the duration of the model on the water. From plant is pushing around a model significantly
This is very much one of those “I want to talk a safety perspective I would never suggest larger than the size of model that the Econo
to the engineer not the oily rag!” scenarios, that the level is taken below the bottom plant is designed for, so your 11mm x 11mm
so it’s over to Richard Simpson here… of the sight glass but, to give a reasonable engine would be significantly higher loaded.
“Many thanks for your comments regarding balance between duration and performance, “Many thanks again for your thoughts and
the February installation of Boiler Room, Tim, I usually try to maintain the glass between feedback, which are very much appreciated
to which I would like to add the following around 80% to 25%. This is also bearing in and valued.”
observations. To address your first point, I mind the length of the sight glass fitted and Hope this explanation has proved of help.
did mention in the article (see p. 62) that I the rate at which the boiler tends to use Ed.
would recommend lagging the boiler, for the water.
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Getting ship shape

In spite of a cold grey February morning, a
number of members from the Wicksteed Park
Model Boat Club in Kettering turned up to get
the shelter and hard standing ‘ship shape’ for the
forthcoming season.
Two days had been booked out to complete
the work. Amazingly, members set to work
with such alacrity that both the repainting of
the shelter and laying an area of hard standing
were completed by lunch time on day one! In
fact, all the work was finished in less time (three
hours) than it took for Club Secretary, Bill, ‘a
distinguished retired senior officer’, to return from
the supermarket, less than half a mile away, with
the ingredients for a barbecue!
JOHN MILESON
EMAIL
Many hands make light work: members of the Wicksteed Park MBC in Kettering getting their shelter
Bravo to all, including Bill. And, Bill, should you and hard standing ‘ship shape’ for the forthcoming season.
happen to be reading this, make sure that next
time around you accidently on purpose burn
John’s burger! Ed.
Enjoy 12 months
for just £50
Have your say...
Help with ‘Identity crisis’ 1

Firstly, many thanks for your excellent and plan. The Veron construction plan is took over and I had to take an enforced
magazine, which I much look forward to also available on eBay or by contacting break from the hobby until my retirement.
receiving every month. I often find the the Model Boat website. Additionally, Anyway, the reason for writing is that
articles a welcome source of inspiration. ‘Battlecrafts’ produces resin parts for this during the ‘70s I built a Veron Fast Patrol
Mike Newell wrote to you seeking model. Boat, 52-inches long, and modified it by
information on his naval vessel. This was The length of the original vessel fitting a Sea-Cat missile launcher behind
a kit produced by the British kit company, was 103ft, which naturally presents the funnel. Unfortunately, this was put
Veron, as its flagship boat kit and was modellers with plenty of scope for detail. into storage and was unfortunately lost,
named ‘High Speed Patrol Boat’. It was a I recommend converting to twin electric along with my other early models, when
scale model of the Vosper Thorneycroft brushless to achieve the necessary the friend who had been storing them
Trinity class fast patrol boat, which Vosper performance. for me died and his family got rid of
supplied to the Malaysian Navy. The kit Hope this helps. everything, including the boats which
was produced from the late 60s to the KEVIN SHARPE they did not realise were mine.
early 70s. It was designed to be powered EMAIL I do still have the set of plans, however,
by a 10 -15cc glow engine and measuring if Mike would like a copy.
52-inches it would need that size engine Thanks so much, Kevin. Please do send PAUL HIATT
to achieve planing performance. It was some images for the Your Models section EMAIL
probably the largest wooden boat kit of on completion, as I, and I’m sure lots of
its day. your fellow readers, would love to see the What a kind and generous offer, Paul. I
I am currently refurbishing one myself. end result. Ed. will pass this on to Mike. Ed.
The hull is constructed of ply and the keel
has been reinforced with several doublers Help with ‘Identity crisis’ 2 Help with ‘Identity crisis’
for strength, making it very robust and Great magazine! I look forward to receiving 3
spacious. To me, what let the kit down was it from yourselves each month. The model featured on page 67 of the
the poor fabrication of the main cabin, I have been a model boat enthusiast for March issue is based on a Vosper 103ft
which I have rebuilt improving its strength. many years. I both collected and made Patrol Craft. I suspect it is actually built
Fleetscale produce a GRP hull and some boats myself in the early 70s, but then from a Fleetscale GRP hull at 1:24 scale,
deck, along with a twin set of running gear working life, spent travelling the world, using my drawings of HMTS Trinity.
These vessels were built in the
1960s/70s for a number of different
countries, including Trinidad and Tobago,
the subject of my drawing, although
Malaysia was the main customer. The
armament varied, but as far as I know,
none were ever fitted with missiles.
If Mike wants to know more, then ask
him to contact me.
LES BROWN
EMAIL

All out of excuses
Thank you so much for in the back of my mind, and I
the article on Peter Koch- know that somewhere in my
Osbourne’s Thames Slipper collection of ‘plans I might use
Launch. Having spent much of sometime’ is the Wargrave,
my late adolescence paddling which Peter explains he based
my self-built canoe up and his model on, so now I have no
down the Thames at a time excuse!
when slipper launches were ROGER STRUDWICKE
quite common, I have always EMAIL
admired them (not least
because of their characteristic
lack of wash, so no danger So glad you enjoyed this
to canoeists!). They always feature, Roger. And don’t
seemed to be immaculately worry, considering you built
maintained. Indeed, I can’t a 1:1 scale canoe ‘seaworthy’
recall ever seeing a ‘tatty’ one. enough to paddled up and
Such a pity they are now few down the Thames in, there’s
and far between. not a shadow of doubt you’ve
A model has always been got this! Ed.
Master photographer
Further to David Bray’s feature in the March issue, I
am sending you a photo that I took some years ago
of Excelsior arriving Aberdeen.
JIM POTTINGER
EMAIL
Such a beautiful shot –I always love seeing your

photos, Jim. Ed

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EXCLUSIVE Jecob in model boat

www.modelboats.com April 2023 Vol.73 No.869

HULL OF A BUILD SEA URCHIN

By post: Model Boats, Mortons Media Group,

© Mortons Media Group 2022

Model Boats, ISSN 0140 - 2910, is published monthly by Mortons Media

4 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 5

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EMILE ROBIN 430

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To further explore the Billing Boats range

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most of the local clubs, some of them be

“Sea Urchin truly is a lovely

Sea Urchin truly is a lovely classic design,

20 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 21

Dermot Curnyn begins

24 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 25

26 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

highest point, were laminated around the tail

28 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

amount of cash (as much as £13 each) for

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 29

First painting attempts Rudders

30 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 31

32 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

“You Mileson? Where do you

a “nice little boat”. It was ginormous! In

Time for a bit of enterprise

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 33

34 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

“There seemed little point in

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 35

36 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

Life magazine published this cut-away

38 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

“The ship was designed to be fast, with an unprecedented 240,000

Popular Mechanics’ highly recommended model build articles.

Model Boats • April 2023 www.modelboats.co.uk 39

Revell artwork and the

40 www.modelboats.co.uk April 2023 • Model Boats

missed the opulence and grandeur of the Right: JSC’s