Highway 1 Story

The Ultimate
Highway 1
Road Trip
Plan your perfect coastal California adventure with this guide to more
than 125 historic towns and unique stops from Crescent City to San Diego
W2 SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE | SFCHRONICLE.COM
Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Hundreds of thousands have gaped at the spectacular view from the pullout just north of Bixby Bridge in Big Sur.
Inspiration for a perfect coastal getaway

California’s coastal highway is a national treasure. This
1
Crescent City to Mendocino:
Fog-shrouded redwood groves,
wondrous, 1,100-mile driving route weaves through long California’s Lost Coast and roadside
kitsch Page 4
stretches of rugged, undeveloped scenery of a kind you
2
won’t find anywhere else on Earth. Highway 1 is a year- Sonoma Coast to Marin: Bohemian
enclaves, windswept bluffs and
round, all-season destination unto itself, but it also links back-to-the-land vibes Page 14
historic towns along the way to the state’s cultural cap-
3
San Francisco to Carmel: Farms,
itals. In this guide, Chronicle writers and contributors forests and a slice of the Slow Coast
Page 23
spotlight six stretches of Highway 1. Each beautifully pho-
4
tographed adventure offers a unique mix of the coast’s top Big Sur: Epic ocean views, funky hippie
hangouts and a Gatsby-era castle
sites, boutique stopovers and under-the-radar experiences Page 32
to inspire an exciting coastal getaway. But don’t stop there!
5
Cambria to Santa Barbara: Charming
Visit our Ultimate Highway 1 Road Trip online, where you towns, hidden hot springs and a bounty
can customize and map your own itinerary: of wineries Page 38
6
sfchronicle.com/hwy1. Ventura to San Diego: World-class surf
breaks, Muscle Beach and the weird,
wild west side of L.A. Page 47
— Gregory Thomas, Travel editor
SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE | SFCHRONICLE.COM W3
STAFF
Gregory Thomas Anna Sarpieri
Travel Editor Photo Editor
Deb Wandell Maggie Creamer

Magazine Editor Designer
Danielle Mollette-Parks Andrea Behr

Creative Director Copy Editor
Emily Jan
Deputy Director of Visuals
The San Francisco Chronicle

A Hearst Newspaper
Bill Nagel Ron Kitagawa

Publisher Director of Production
Emilio Garcia-Ruiz
Editor in Chief
Michael Gray
Director of Features
Plan a trip with our interactive map
& Daily Enterprise The Chronicle’s Ultimate Highway 1 Road Trip is available online as an
interactive map so you can create and save your own itinerary along Cali-
ON THE COVER: San Onofre State Beach is a popular surfing
destination in San Clemente.
fornia’s famous route. Get started at sfchronicle.com/hwy1.
CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

A short detour off Highway 1, Avenue of the Giants is just a few minutes longer from end to end — and many times more beautiful.
Scruffy towns and pure redwood awe

By Alissa Greenberg which have transformed their econo- Stone Lagoon or the older Yurok Coun- tecture of Main Street Ferndale or Old
mies from logging to cannabis. An try Visitor Center in Klamath to learn Town Eureka.
The laid-back hippie vibes that once enormous patchwork of redwood about the region’s ecology and history. Though the highway occasionally
defined Northern California in the parks and preserves brings visitors Both centers are run by the Yurok tribe. veers inland, the drive south from
years before the tech boom are alive from all over the world for hikes and Or take a trip in a traditional canoe and Oregon is peppered with gorgeous
and well — you just have to know scenic drives. learn why these watercraft coastal views. Watch the sunset at
where to look. Between the Oregon For a shot of pure red- have noses, hearts and kid- Sue-Meg State Park in Trinidad or
border and Mendocino is a rural land- wood awe, visit the prime- MAP YOUR neys, and how the tribe con- while sifting through the gemlike sand
scape the size of Maine full of dappled val forests of Howland Hill TRIP vinced California to remove of Glass Beach in Fort Bragg. Take a
redwood groves, still lagoons and emp- Road in Jedediah Smith sfchronicle.com/ seven dams on its sacred riv- side trip to the black sand beaches of
ty, windswept beaches. Here is the State Park outside Crescent hwy1/northcoast er, starting this year. Shelter Cove and the Lost Coast. Ex-
place where homesteaders went “back City, which seems to deliver The retro redwood expe- plore Mendocino, whose earthy-
to the land” and put down roots. The visitors directly into the rience continues at Confu- crunchy cafes, wine bars and art galler-
result: a refuge lush with spectacular Cretaceous. Meander sion Hill and the Trees of ies make it both a fun afternoon stop
redwoods and infused with home- through Stout Grove, walk the Boy Mystery, two height-of-kitsch road- and a weekend destination. Stroll the
grown cannabis culture. It’s an area Scout Tree Trail or hike on the new side attractions. You can also choose compact downtown, or head straight to
that often gets lumped in with the Bay boardwalk to the tremendous Grove from one of three hollowed-out “drive- the natural beauty that surrounds the
Area under the “NorCal” designation of the Titans. These are the behemoth through” redwood trees in Klamath, town, from the Mendocino Head-
but, culturally, it’s a world away. trees you’ve seen in photos and post- Leggett or Myers Flat. Or head back lands and Russian Gulch state parks
From Oregon, Highway 1 meanders cards dwarfing visitors. even further in time with a stroll to the Mendocino Botanical Garden
through scruffy coastal towns, many of Stop by the new visitor center at through the fairy-tale Victorian archi- and the beach at Big River.
Crescent City
At least geographically, Crescent City is a good starting point for exploring the Jurassic wonders of Howland Hill Road and other highlights
of Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. The south side of town offers a line of affordable and mostly pleasant motels, along with several din-
er-style restaurants that fit the community’s homey vibe. Otherwise, there’s not much to downtown Crescent City: a post office, a few stores, a
brewery and Tsunami Lanes (which, even if you don’t like the sport, is certainly in competition for best Pacific Northwest-themed bowling
alley name.)
If you have extra time outside your redwood forays, be sure to check out charming Battery Point Lighthouse and its neighboring tide pools. For
other pretty seaside spots, dodge sea lions on the long Lighthouse Jetty that stretches into the harbor or head to the B Street Pier to watch sea birds
and see locals fishing and catching crabs.
Stops to explore on foot as well. The newly

opened Grove of Titans Trail (1.7
Pelican State Beach: This jewel of a miles) lives up to its name. Complet-
beach is just a couple of minutes ed in early 2022, it takes hikers
south of the Oregon border and often through stands of stately redwoods
overlooked due to minimal signage. and down through a creek valley
Pull into the tiny parking lot, then slung with moss. But all that pales
tromp through the thick vegetation next to the Titans themselves: walls
onto a beautifully desolate beach of vegetation the size of apartment
strewn with driftwood. The bleached, buildings, many of which sport
broad logs make great seats for pic- branches themselves the size of
nicking and appreciating the view: trees. (For a longer jaunt, walk the
white breakers, gray-green water, co- impressive Boy Scout Tree Trail, 5.3
nifers and evergreens visible up the miles.) For a shorter option, stroll
coast. 17200 Highway 101, Smith River, through Stout Grove (0.5 miles),
parks.ca.gov where afternoon sunlight filters
Howland Hill Road: A highlight of the through the canopy of what many
public lands known collectively as consider the state’s most beautiful
Redwood State and National Parks is redwood grove.
the gloriously scenic drive down Crescent City Battery Point
Howland Hill Road, a 6-mile dirt Lighthouse: If Battery Point Light-
track that plunges straight into the gi- house gives you East Coast postcard
ant ferns and huge trees of the Late vibes, you’re not imagining things.
Cretaceous period. The drive’s unique Built in classic Cape Cod style and first
perspective comes in part from the lit in 1856, the tiny, picturesque beacon
road’s design. Instead of running sits on a rocky outcropping under a
straight, like other redwood drives, solitary tree on the outskirts of town.
Howland Hill Road dips and twists These days, it’s maintained by a cadre
through the trees, sometimes dwin- of volunteers who wait years for their
dling to a single lane and pulling the turn to stay in and care for the historic
forest close around it. Note that, al- building and give tours. The light-
though the road is maintained re- house is open most days, but you’re
markably well and often passable free to venture across the wet sand to
even without four-wheel drive, trail- visit the outside whenever low tide al-
ers aren’t allowed. nps.gov/thingsto lows. The beach is also prime tide
do/drivehowlandhillrd.htm pooling territory, but keep an eye on
Grove of Titans Trail: A drive down the sea or a tide chart, or risk wading
Howland Hill Road is a peak experi- back to your car. 235 Lighthouse Way,
ence in itself, but leave yourself time Crescent City

Where Highway 1 meets Interstate 101, in Leggett, an area rife with
kitschy retro tourist attractions, including “drive-through” trees.
Trinidad Stops
Trees of Mystery: As you
drive past Crescent City,
Popular for its stunning beach- you can’t miss the Trees
es, plentiful and beautiful walks of Mystery: After all, not
and upscale restaurants and fish many stretches of high-
market, Trinidad is also a prime way feature a giant, wav-
ing Paul Bunyan and his
jumping-off point for Sue-Meg equally imposing blue
State Park and the Avenue of the ox. Inside, kitschy de-
Giants. The town has a classed-up lights await: a set of
fishing village feel that’s half Cali- hand-carved murals
based on Paul Bunyan
fornia surfer, half Oregon bohemi-
fables; a zigzagging path
an. If you’re eager to hike, follow through the eponymous
the path that curls around Trini- trees (with names such
dad Head, or one of a number of as Fallen Giant and Ca-
scenic options in Sue-Meg. If local thedral Tree); a gondola
ride through redwood
history is more your speed, the treetops, and a skywalk
small-but-mighty Trinidad Muse- that offers a unique
um offers exhibits on Indigenous chance to see these awe-
basketry, the Gold Rush and the inspiring trees from up
in the canopy. 15500
rise of the region’s fishing and Highway 101, Klamath,
logging industries. 800-638-3389, trees
ofmystery.net
Traditional canoeing in
Arcata Yurok Country: The Yu-

rok tribe believe canoes
are beings worthy of hon-
Life in Arcata revolves around or and treat them as such;
a traditional Yurok canoe
the charming plaza at the center of
has a nose, heart, kidneys
town and the Cal Poly Humboldt and a name. The Klamath
campus to the north. This coastal River was once a bustling
town is a mix of old school (Jacoby’s byway filled with these
Storehouse, a 19th century depart- watercraft, but when it
bucked its banks in 1964,
ment store now filled with bou- a huge portion of the
tiques, and the Gold Rush history tribe’s canoes were
of Phillips House Museum) and washed out to sea. You’ll
college-town vibes (record stores, a learn this story and more
on a two- or four-hour ca-
remarkable variety of pizza purvey- noe tour leaving from
ors, and the region’s only 24-hour Klamath, a peaceful jour-
diner.) That means that, along with ney full of misty red-
the standard restaurants and bars, woods, waterbirds and
Yurok storytelling. The
you can also find quirkier fare, such tours are part of the Yu-
as at Hatchet House Arcata, where roks’ efforts to educate
you can try your hand at ax throw- visitors about their cul-
ing, and Cafe Mokka, a vintage tural history and their
lives as the largest Indige-
coffeehouse with newspapers from nous group in the state
around the world and Finnish-style (visityurokcountry.com/
saunas that you can rent by the Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle canoes). If you’d like to
It’s worth your while to get out of your car and take a walk around the enormous trees learn more, you can also
hour. lining Avenue of the Giants Scenic Alternate Route in Humboldt County. visit the newly opened
Stone Lagoon visitor center (15336

Highway 101, Trinidad, 707-677-3570)
and Yurok Country Visitor Center, 101
Klamath Blvd., Klamath, visityurok
country.com/visitor-center.
Radar Station B-71/scenic loop: For a
short but eventful side trip, take a left
on Route D7 south of Klamath, right
before you cross the river on Highway
101. A one-way 9-mile loop along
Coastal Drive and Klamath Beach
Road offers picnic-worthy views
along the coast and the mouth of the
river; a couple of interesting historical
plaques about the flood that ruined
the up-and-coming town of Klamath
in 1964; and a stop at Radar Station
B-71, a World War II-era intelligence
outpost disguised as a farmhouse. A
few minutes after that, the road will
deposit you on a cliff overlooking the
river, a scenic spot for a snack before
you start your drive again.
Tide pooling at False Klamath Cove:
Tide pooling is an essential part of any
Northern California beach adventure.
False Klamath Cove, just north of
Redwood National Park, is conve-
niently located for travelers who want
to combine redwoods and anemones
into one day of natural awe. The best
spots here are found close to Lagoon Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Creek Picnic Area, where you can Sue-Meg State Park offers camping, cliff walks, beaches filled with agates and anemones, and Yurok history.
park and follow a short trail to the
beach, scrambling over mussel-and- Try to notice the differences here — fused, even underwhelmed, by Red- known as Patrick’s Point, this state
seaweed-covered rocks to hunt for curly bark, lighter, darker — as well wood National Park. That’s because park was renamed in 2021 at the re-
russet sea stars, DayGlo sea anemo- as the prairies that mark this place as outside far Northern California, quest of the Yurok tribe, against
nes and spiny urchins. But this isn’t one of the forest gardens maintained “Redwood National Park” is short- whom settler and park namesake
your only tide pooling option. To for centuries by Yurok and other In- hand for the full patchwork of state Patrick Beegan committed atroci-
work tide pooling into your itinerary digenous communities. parks and tribally managed public ties. (The Yurok have used this area
elsewhere, try Luffenholtz Beach EdeBee’s Snack Shack: Travelers lands in this area. While many of as a seasonal encampment for cen-
Park and College Cove at the northern passing through take note: Food op- the redwood highlights this bit of turies and called it Sumêg.) Though
end of Trinidad Beach if you’re head- tions are minimal along the chunk of the state has to offer are technically it covers little more than 1 square
ed farther south, or hunt for treasures 101 that runs between Orick and Cres- on state park land, there’s still plen- mile, the park packs a lot in a small
up north below Battery Point Light- cent City, so you’ll want to plan your ty to seek out here. Watch for the area, offering summertime camp-
house in Crescent City. meals carefully. EdeBee’s Snack resident elk herd, often found at the ing, beautiful cliff walks overlook-
Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway: If Shack makes for a quick, fun and well-named Elk Meadow or along ing turquoise bays, beaches filled
you’re not already overloaded on tasty stop. The elk burger, pulled pork Davison Road. And you’ll almost with agates and anemones, and rich
beautiful redwood drives, hop off sandwich and milk shakes are peren- certainly want to make time for a Yurok history. Once you’re finished
Highway 101 to take this alternate nial favorites. (120777 Redwood High- side trip to famous Fern Canyon, the with the longer Rim Trail (2 miles)
route through Prairie Creek Red- way, Orick, 707-951-1777). Farther green and lush gorge featured in or have gone to Wedding Rock (0.2
woods State Park. The park offers a north, the Log Cabin Diner serves “The Lost World: Jurassic Park” (1 miles), stop at Sumêg Village, a re-
variety of lovely walks, including down-home fare in Klamath during mile; check for road closures, bring creation of a traditional Yurok com-
Moormon Pond Trail (0.8 miles), a the high season but closes in winter. water-resistant shoes, and reserve pound. Planned and built by local
meander up a moss-covered red- (301 Highway 169, Klamath, 707-482- parking on the National Parks web- tribe members along with park
wood canyon, and Revelation Loop 0400) And a little way up the road, the site during the summer season). staff, the structures are made from
Trail, a similar-length route through drive-in snack bar A Good Place to Along the same road, you’ll also find redwood boards sourced from fall-
one of the most genetically diverse Eat (also known as Woodland Villa) a pleasant hike to Trillium Falls (2.8 en trees in parks along the coast.
old-growth redwood forests around. is, well, you know. 15870 Highway 101 miles), as well as gorgeous beach The site is still used for ceremonies
Most redwood forests are populated N., Klamath, 707-482-2081. camping opportunities at Gold and to educate Yurok youth. 4150
with clones, but many of Prairie Redwood National Park: First-time Bluffs Beach. Patricks Point Drive, Trinidad.
Creek’s redwoods grew from seed. visitors to this area may be con- Sue-Meg State Park: Formerly parks.ca.gov
Eureka
At one point the capital of the West Coast lumber industry, Eureka
has quieted down since then — though it is still the proud “Home of
the Loggers” football team. Still, the city’s Old Town has blossomed
significantly in recent years. With a new coat of paint (and over 100
murals), plus bars, pubs and restaurants lined up along the water, it’s
a lively stopping point.
While you’re here, keep your eyes peeled for the characteristic Vic-
torian architecture scattered around town, particularly the why-is-
that-so-familiar-level-famous Carson Mansion (now a private club).
Then immerse yourself in the majesty and power of the trees you’ve
come to Northern California to enjoy, at Sequoia Park Zoo’s Redwood
Skywalk, which brings visitors up into the canopy to see the forest
from a fresh perspective.
Ferndale
It’s only a slight exaggeration to say that Ferndale is the storybook
Victorian town of your dreams. Just a few minutes off Highway 101, the
absurdly picturesque Main Street is lined with brightly painted confec-
tions, making it a great stop for a stroll or dinner on your way south.
Admire the native flowers, art and elaborate Victorian kids’ playhouse
at Hadley Garden, then walk to the center of town, pausing at whichev-
er gift shops, art galleries, antique stores or bakeries pique your interest.
If you’re thirsty, check out the Palace Saloon. Although erroneously
labeled the westernmost bar in the U.S. — that honor belongs to the
Yellow Rose in Petrolia — it’s still historic and charming. For an off-the-
beaten-path experience, consider tagging along with local musician
Margaret Kellerman on an Art Hike, combining history, exploration and
sketching. And don’t leave town without using what are without a
doubt California’s cutest public bathrooms.
Top right: Ferndale’s Victorian Main Street is lined with brightly painted
confections. Right: Al O’Quinn and his friends pose for the requisite
tourist photo in front of the Drive-Thru Tree in Leggett.
Photos by Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle


EdeBee’s Snack Shack in Orick makes for a fun stop. The elk burger, pulled pork sandwich and milk shakes are favorites.
Shelter Cove Trinidad Bay: With its tony-

Stops
Avenue of the Giants: This
restaurants-meets-fishing- 32-mile stretch of highway
Nothing in Shelter Cove is a straight line, from the shimmer in the air over Black village feel, Trinidad town (which, among other things,
Sand Beach to the roads that wind precipitously from Highway 101 down to this has plenty to offer. But the threads through Humboldt
remote fishing village. Follow the “cool your brakes and wet your whistle” sign to top draw here is Trinidad Redwoods State Park) has
the charming and well-stocked Shelter Cove General Store & Gifts to give yourself Bay, which offers an exquisite been around since the days
set of cliff-top lookout points when stagecoaches brought
a rest. Outside of town, that Black Sand Beach is also the southern end of the 25- and sandy beaches backed by throngs from San Francisco
mile Lost Coast Trail, a beloved hiking route that leads to the magnificent cliffs and dramatic sea stacks, extend- to see the giant trees many
quiet beaches of some of the wildest parts of California. ing south from Trinidad thought were a hoax. Since
The town itself is a scattering of quirky houses and cabins huddled under the cliff Head through the sandy ex- 1960, you’ve had the option to
panse of Moonstone Beach. cut around this drive to stay
against what is often a wind-whipped ocean. To take in the views, stop at one of the
The views along Scenic Drive on Highway 101, but why
waterside picnic areas along Lower Pacific Drive, making time as well to visit Cape south of town are uniformly would you? It’s just a few
Mendocino Lighthouse. Pause for a beer at Mario’s Marina and watch the occasional stunning, with each nook minutes longer from end to
plane bank dramatically before landing at the airstrip across the street. This area, boasting its own vibe. Stop to end than the highway — and
which serves as the community’s downtown, also hosts Arts at Heart, a local artist watch folks slacklining from many times more beautiful.
incredible heights at Baker Pull off at one of the many
collective where you can pick up souvenirs (both at 533 Machi Road, Whitethorn), Beach, catch the sunset from trailheads along the route
along with the Shelter Cove RV Campground and Deli, which serves killer fish and Houda Point or let your dog and explore the forest.
chips — a good lunch or dinner before you get back on the road. run free along Moonstone
Beach.
Fort Bragg
Sandwiched between the New Age vibes of Mendocino and the grittier towns along the Redwood Highway, Fort Bragg is a pleasant mix of
historic beach destination and no-nonsense Anytown, USA. Vistas from Pudding Creek Trestle, Noyo Headlands and Pomo Bluffs Park show-
case the rugged cliffs and sandy seashore of this part of the coast — you can even kayak on the Noyo River if you’re feeling adventurous. Or
visit world-famous Glass Beach, the town dump-turned-sea glass treasure trove whose ocean-brushed bounty is still worth seeing after de-
cades of visitors. A ride through the marshes and redwoods on the 130-year-old Skunk Train is a fun way to experience a little of the area’s
history. Afterward, stop by the old Union Lumber Co. store, which has been converted into a mini mall featuring restaurants and boutiques.
Top off your visit with a meal at one of the restaurants in Fort Bragg’s compact, charming downtown.
Stops its own gift shop. (779 Highway 101,

Piercy, 707-247-3413). Have a snack at
Humboldt Redwoods State Park: At the Living Chimney Tree Grill and
more than 50,000 acres, Humboldt walk down into the remnants of the
Redwoods State Park is California’s tree that gives the spot its name, a
third largest, featuring myriad groves huge hollowed-out trunk (open sea-
of old-growth trees along a variety of sonally; 1111 Avenue of the Giants,
hiking trails and the famous Avenue Phillipsville, 707-923-2265). Or pop
of the Giants. Besides the requisite into the One Log dispensary and ask
drive along that famed route, a walk is for the code to see the One Log House,
the best way to experience the park — a 1946-era tiny house built from a
perhaps marveling at the heft of the 2,100-year-old redwood. 705 Highway
fallen Dyerville Giant at the end of 101, Garberville, 707-247-2717, one-
Founders Grove trail (0.6 miles), cran- loghouse.com
ing your neck at the immensity of the Confusion Hill: This attraction dates
trees at Stephens Grove Trail (0.8 from 1949, meaning this is retro road-
miles) or wondering at the bright side kitsch at its best. The central at-
green carpet of redwood sorrel at traction here is the Gravity House
Grieg-French-Bell Grove (technically 1 (think Santa Cruz Mystery Spot), but
mile, but footpaths here intersect in Confusion Hill also offers a half-hour
ways that lend themselves just as easi- small-gauge train ride through an
ly to two minutes as two hours). Or for appealing mountain forest. Keep an
a short off-trail adventure, go hunting eye out for the “chipalope,” a dimin-
for the elusive albino redwood at utive chipmunk with antelope ant-
Women’s Federation Grove. From the lers that’s the attraction’s fabled mas-
entrance gate, watch for the third un- cot. (75001 Highway 101, Piercy,
official trail on the right. Bear left at a confusionhill.com). And if this kind
fallen log, and you’ll see the snow- of roadside attraction is your cup of
white needles of the so-called “Christ- tea, you’re in luck. The area is chock
mas tree” tucked into a gully. parks.ca. full of kitschy fun, from the tasty
gov grub at the Peg House (69501 High-
Grandfather Tree: Since you’re here way 101, Leggett, thepeghouse.com),
to see the redwoods, lean into it and with its “Never Don’t Stop” motto, to
really see them. Stop along your route the chain saw carvings and cryptid
to marvel at the enormous and an- paraphernalia for sale at nearby Leg-
cient Grandfather Tree — some 1,800 end of Bigfoot. 2500 Highway 101,
years old, with a 24-foot diameter and Garberville, 707-247-3332.

Ancient redwoods along Avenue of the Giants Scenic Alternate Route.
Chandelier Drive Thru Tree: It’s not a prop-

er Northern California road trip until
you’ve driven through a hollowed-out red-
wood. We don’t make the rules! Happily,
you have multiple opportunities to do so.
For a classic, simpler experience, drive
through the Chandelier Tree in Leggett
(67402 Drive Thru Tree Road, Leggett, dri-
vethrutree.com), or try the Klamath Tour-
Thru Tree, 150 miles north in Klamath (430
Highway 169, Klamath, 707-482-5971). For a
more elaborate experience (think home-
made playhouses made from hollowed-out
tree trunks for kids, a “drive on” tree, and a
kitschy but impressive slice of a thousand-
year-old redwood), hit the Shrine Drive
Thru Tree in Myers Flat. 13078 Avenue of
the Giants, Myers Flat, 707-943-1975.
Glass Beach and the Sea Glass museum:
There was a time when Glass Beach was cov-
ered with so much ocean-smoothed glass that
there was almost no visible sand. That boun-
ty was thanks to what locals called the
Dumps, an accumulation of the town’s junk
at the water’s edge until 1967, when author-
ities closed the site. Time, tourism and the
power of the waves have all taken their toll,
which means that if you’re out to see the peb-
ble-size shards of yesteryear, you’re likely out
of luck. Instead, the beach’s beauty has be-
come more subtle. The waves still crash dra-
matically here, and the sand that’s pushed
and pulled with the tides is still bursting with
multicolored gems — they’re just much
smaller. For more sea glass content, head to
nearby International Sea Glass Museum,
which features many remarkable finds from
Glass Beach. 303-F N. Main St., Fort Bragg,
internationalseaglassmuseum.com
Skunk Train: The name comes from the dis-
tinctive stench of the fuel that powered the
historic cars that have plied this railway for
more than 130 years. This was the last train to
deliver mail (until 2003!) in the United States.
Now the mix of historic cars and open-air
platforms offers another fun opportunity for
visitors to get out into the redwoods and learn
a little local history. Take the Pudding Creek
Express from Fort Bragg up to the hills of
Glen Bar and back for a morning’s outing.
The open-air cars are pleasantly breezy, espe-
cially with redwoods rising all around and ac-
companied by a cocktail or bag of popcorn
from the snack car. If your schedule doesn’t
match up or you prefer more exercise with
your train experience, try the line’s rail bikes.
And for train enthusiasts or those with more
time to spend, the Skunk Train can still take
you all the way to Willits. 100 W. Laurel St., Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Fort Bragg, skunktrain.com. Bigfoot’s a regular at Wagon Wheel Burl in Orick, where it’s easy to spot tourist attractions.
Mendocino
With its pretty Victorian houses and cliffs plunging into the ocean, Mendocino is one of
the most picturesque spots in Northern California. The town manages to squeeze several
blocks of earthy-crunchy cafes, art galleries and wine bars onto a compact peninsula.
Tucked among them is the bright red and green Temple of Kwan Tai. Built in the early
1850s by one of the many Chinese immigrants who came here to build railroads and work
in the redwood camps, the temple is now maintained by those immigrants’ descendants.
Architecture and culture aside, the true highlight is the natural beauty surrounding
Mendocino. Start your morning on the cliffs of Mendocino Headlands State Park, take in
the local and exotic flora at Mendocino Botanical Garden, then spend the afternoon by the
beach at Big River or the lighthouse at Point Cabrillo.
Above, the gleaming Pacific Ocean seems to go on forever off the Mendocino coast.
Stops
Point Cabrillo Lighthouse: Taller and more traditional-
ly designed than its cousin at Shelter Cove, the Point Ca-
brillo Lighthouse sits on a spit of land between Mendo-
cino and Fort Bragg. A spur off Highway1winds past the
white sand and clear blue water of Caspar Beach to the
light station, a slice of greenery and rocky cliffs acces-
sible via hiking trails or a walk along the road. The light-
house also hosts a small museum full of local history
and marine science. 13800 Point Cabrillo Drive, Mendo-
cino, parks.ca.gov
Russian Gulch State Park: Most people stop here for the
photo op — the park offers a spectacular view of the dra-
matic Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge and plunging cliffs
— but it’s also a prime spot to picnic, stretch your legs
and learn a little about the area’s history. Russian Gulch
is named for the settlers that plied this coast in search of
seal and otter furs starting in the early 1800s. They got as
far as Fort Ross, 50 miles south, but their brief (and
sometimes violent) venture failed by 1841. The park of-
fers easy access to hiking, including beautiful water
views along Headlands Trail (0.75 miles). That walk in-
cludes a stop at the odd, oddly spectacular Devil’s
Punchbowl, a 100-foot-wide, 60-foot-deep sinkhole that
fills with ocean water at high tide and features an im-
pressive waterfall during the wet season. (Wear long
pants and watch for poison oak.) parks.ca.gov
Mendocino Headlands State Park: This is your first
real taste of the wild grandeur of the Central California
coast as you head south, featuring huge, slablike cliffs
dropping dramatically into aquamarine pools below.
The park is a quick jaunt from town and off Highway 1,
making it a lovely stop for a picnic and picture taking if
you’re in a hurry, or for exploration by foot, canoe or
kayak if you have more time. The Headlands Trail (4
miles) is one way to explore the area in depth. And if
you’re in town in July, don’t miss the Mendocino Head-
lands Music Festival, where you can enjoy live music of
all kinds along with unparalleled ocean views. parks.ca
.gov
Van Damme State Park pygmy forest: This so-called
pygmy forest formed when trees were stunted by low-
nutrient soil that sits on ancient former ocean floor. The
result is a collection of natural bonsai, with half-inch
tree trunks boasting decades of growth rings. The pyg-
my forests of California’s North Coast (you can find
them in Salt Point, Van Damme and Jughandle state
parks) formed due to an “ecological staircase” made of
giant terraces uplifted from the ocean floor over many
millennia. Each new level traps its own set of nutrients,
keeping its plant life tiny. The quarter-mile Pygmy For-
est Discovery Trail at Van Damme sits just inside the
park’s southern entrance, and its boardwalk winds
through stands of miniature pines and cypresses that
normally might tower more than a hundred feet. For a
longer jaunt, try Jughandle, where you can play giant on
the 2.5-mile Ecological Staircase Trail. 8001 Highway 1,
Little River. parks.ca.gov Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Victorian meets classic in downtown Ferndale, where various vintages meet.
SONOMA COAST TO MARIN
Untamed beauty from sea to summit

By Leilani Marie Labong
From Mendocino to the Golden Gate

Bridge, Highway 1 resembles some-
thing of a quintessential Robert Red-
ford film character: a stoic, formidable
presence with an untamed heart. This
stunning 145-mile stretch of coastline
spans three counties — Mendocino, So-
noma and Marin — and most of it re-
mains wild and protected by state and
national parks along the roadway.
Here, modern travelers can catch a
glimpse of the land as it has existed for
centuries, since Indigenous tribes like
the Pomo, Coast Yuki and Coast Miwok
were its only inhabitants.
According to Cally Dym, a fifth-
generation resident of Mendocino
County and proprietor of the Little
River Inn, the eco-consciousness of
the hippies continues today in “Men-
donoma,” a portmanteau of Mendoci-
no and Sonoma. Daily stewardship of
the land and sea is entwined, for ex-
ample, in the sustainable foraging of
seaweed, mollusks and mushrooms.
While such ingredients may provide a
satisfying sense of place for Highway 1
destination restaurants like the Har-
bor House Inn’s two-Michelin-starred
restaurant in Elk, traditional subsis-
tence is a hard-fought right for local Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Indigenous people. The Bodega Head Nature Trail loops through windswept meadows of California poppies, lupine and aster.
Given all of the adventure this
stretch of coast offers motorists — from character in your life,” she says. harmony with their environment, a seafood shacks like the Marshall Store
world-class beachcombing at Green- “Which means you can never take it for windswept coastal terrace that had and Hog Island Oyster Co., where city
wood Beach to long hikes in Van granted.” once been a 19th century ranch. In Oc- folk come to shuck and slurp.
Damme State Park’s lush, fog-fed Fern Sonoma County is probably best tober 2021, the Sea Ranch Lodge, origi- Mostly in Marin, Highway 1 also goes
Canyon to, yes, guided foraging excur- known for its famous inland grape- nally built in 1964, reopened by the handle Shoreline
sions organized by various Mendono- growing valley, and yet the coast is an after an extensive three-year MAP YOUR Highway and is popular
ma inns, including Dym’s — the aver- under-the-radar appellation of its own. renovation and is now a so- TRIP with motorists and cyclists
age traveler may not realize the envi- Acclaimed winemaking operations like phisticated stopover for — consider this your gentle
ronmental damage happening beneath Peay Vineyards and Flowers Winery Highway 1 motorists. sfchronicle.com/ reminder to share the often-
the ocean’s surface. Owing to an over- sit along the ridges of the coastal moun- In West Marin you’ll find hwy1/sonoma shoulderless road.
population of seaweed-hungry purple tains, taking advantage of the temper- the recreationalist’s heaven From sea to summit, some
sea urchins, the North Coast has lost 90 ate maritime environment. of Point Reyes National Sea- of the greatest hits include
percent of its highly productive kelp Bohemian communes settled in the shore, a 71,000-acre coastal preserve Stinson Beach, a sleepy second-home
forests, which provide shelter for sea foothills of the Sonoma Coast in 1969 with 150 miles of hiking trails and 80 community known for its long, cres-
life and sequester carbon from the at- and 1970. Long dismantled, they live miles of undeveloped beaches. Unfold- cent-shaped beach, and Mount Tamal-
mosphere. Dym has organized the re- on only in archival pictures. However, ing around it are beef and dairy ranch- pais, the site of the hallowed Muir
gion’s annual Urchin Fest — a summer the hippies’ back-to-the-land inten- es — some historic — that continue to Woods National Monument, the Bay
weekend of urchin harvesting and tions were predated by the utopian- operate, albeit controversially. Aqua- Area’s only old-growth coastal red-
slurp-worthy consumption — to help minded Bay Area architects and de- culture is also important around these wood forest. Catching sight of the
restore balance in the waters. signers who created the Sea Ranch parts. Highway 1 skirts along the east- Golden Gate Bridge upon emerging
“When you live on this part of the circa 1964. The modernist structures ern shore of Tomales Bay, an ocean-fed from the Robin Williams Tunnel is al-
coast, the ocean becomes this gigantic of this development famously exist in inlet that’s home to bivalve farms and ways a breathtaking moment.
Elk Stops B. Bryan Preserve: Animal

conservationists Frank and Ju-
Little River Blowhole: A short dy Mello established the 110-
The hub of the late 19th century North Coast logging industry is now a boom- trail through the Little River acre B. Bryan Preserve in 2004,
ing creative community. The wares of this tiny coastal town’s disproportionately Cemetery takes you to a odd not just to restore populations
deep bench of artistic talent can be discovered at the Artist’s Collective Gallery, a geologic feature that started as of threatened species (roan, sa-
a blowhole but has eroded into ble and greater kudu antelope,
shared exhibition space for 30 local artists including Irene Nicolas, who puts a
a punch bowl. At high tide, Hartmann’s mountain zebra
Dreamtime spin on American folk art. The town’s modern five and dime, Mat- ocean waves funnel through a and Grévy’s zebra, plus Roth-
son Mercantile, carries functional pottery by local ceramicist Pierrot Esnol and narrow rock tunnel and empty schild’s giraffe, the world’s tall-
turned-wood bowls by Greg Stemler, whose studio is on the premises. Elk’s gas- into the punch bowl’s sandy est land mammal), but also to
tronomic culture is also surprisingly robust. The Elk Store’s stacked-high deli bottom. During nights when spread the word about Africa’s
there’s a full moon illuminat- natural wildlife habitats, de-
sandwiches — particularly the banh mi with house-smoked pork belly — are ing the Gold Rush-era ceme- clining due to an increase in
standard provisions for beach picnics. Have a seat on a driftwood log at Green- tery and a low tide at sea, drum poaching and intensified polit-
wood Beach for a view of the town’s famous sea stacks Wharf Rock and Casket circles will occasionally form ical unrest. Each motorized
Rock. At Navarro Beach, harbor seals can be found lying in wait for coho sal- in the depths of the punch tour — self-guided is an option
bowl — percussionists rappel — culminates in hand-feeding
mon and steelhead trout starting an upstream journey at the confluence of Na- down with their instruments carrots to the giraffes. 130 Riv-
varro River and the Pacific Ocean. The Restaurant at Harbor House Inn, where using a fixed rope at the site. erside Drive, Point Arena, bbry
celebrated chef Matthew Kammerer serves a 12-course fixed-price dinner featur- 7400 Highway 1, Little River. anpreserve.com
ing purple sea urchin and four types of seaweed sourced from the property’s
private ocean cove, is currently the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Mendoci- Take in sweeping ocean views while hiking the windy,
treeless coastal bluffs of the Marin Headlands, above.
no County, with two twinklers to its name.
Stops
Sea Point Arena-Stornetta
Public Lands: In March 2014,
Ranch
President Barack Obama de-
clared these 1,700 undevel-
oped acres as the only onshore
section of the California
The rural Sonoma Coast Coastal National Monument.
seems like an odd place for A rich microcosm of wildlife,
a globally acclaimed utopia from humpback whales to
of modernism, but nev- peregrine falcons to the en-
dangered Point Arena moun-
ertheless one exists on a tain beaver, thrive in an equal-
jagged coastal shelf that ly wide variety of habitats. A
was once a late-19th century quintessential visit includes a
ranch. In 1963, visionary stop at the historic Point Are-
na Lighthouse (the tallest on
developer Al Boecke, land- the Pacific Coast at 115 feet), a
scape designer Lawrence wander along the 5.7-mile out-
Halprin and the San Fran- and-back coastal trail and a
cisco architecture studio photo op teetering atop one of
the sandstone spheres at
MLTW (Charles Moore, Bowling Ball Beach. Light-
Donlyn Lyndon, William house Road, Point Arena,
Turnbull and Richard Whi- blm.gov/visit/point-arena
taker) broke ground on the -stornetta-unit
Oz Farm Cabins: Of the
Sea Ranch, a residential 20,000 cabins that were
community driven by na- pitched to Vimeo co-founder
ture, a philosophy inspired Zach Klein for the second
by area’s Indigenous Pomo volume of his blog-turned-
book “Cabin Porn,” only one
nation. Clad in local red-
geodesic double dome — on
wood, Sea Ranch structures Oz Farm — made the cut. As
develop the familiar weath- the most architecturally
ered-gray patina of coastal striking of the Oz Farms cab-
trees and echo the color of ins, the Domes, on the south
bank of the Garcia River,
the frequently soupy set- hark back to the countercul-
ting. Some homes are ar- ture structures hand-built in
ranged perpendicular to the the Mendocino backwoods.
coast for democratic access Other cabins on the farm, a
17-acre, off-the-grid horticul-
to ocean views, while oth- tural oasis powered by wind
ers are tucked behind cy- and solar, include yurts and a
press hedgerows for protec- two-story octagonal shanty
tion from the elements. called the Tower that evokes
a stove-top espresso maker.
Amber meadows are held In the spirit of the surround-
in common. The hamlet’s ings, guests can order a CSA
10-mile-long bluff-top trail farm box and purchase bot-
offers opportunities to de- tles of estate-brewed hard ci-
der made from over 50 variet-
scend to black sand beaches ies of European and heirloom
and tide pools, plus close- apples grown on Oz Farm’s
ups of the groundbreaking orchard. 41601 Mountain
architecture. Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle View Road, Point Arena, oz
farm.com
The Sea Ranch Chapel at the Sea Ranch, where homes harmonize with the environment.

Peak low tide is the best time to see the dozens of globular sandstone concretions at Bowling Ball Beach in Point Arena.
Point Arena Stops

Bowling Ball Beach: Crucial to
grocer has been mounting a
festive weekend barbecue to
live music in its parking lot,
visiting this Point Arena beach drawing anyone who finds
Not that this Mendocino County town wasn’t already on the map before March is checking the tide tables. Peak the aroma of smoke and
2014, when President Barack Obama established 1,665 acres of its coastal prairie eco- low tide is the best time to see charred meat irresistible.
system as the first onshore addition to the California Coastal National Monument, but the dozens of globular sand- Over grills smoldering with
such a presidential declaration can be a reputational boon and boost for the local stone concretions, shaped by white-hot mesquite charcoal,
millennias’ worth of whipping the market’s skilled pitmas-
economy. Within the Point Arena-Stornetta Public Lands’ varieties of hikeable ter- winds and crashing surf. From ters prepare baby back ribs,
rain, one landmark has been helping travelers get their bearings since 1870: the Point the north end of the parking lot, rotisserie chicken and tri-tip
Arena Lighthouse (the tallest of its kind on the West Coast at 115 feet). Another vestige take a short hike through a to their tenderest smoky-
of the logging era is Point Arena Pier, which was rebuilt in the mid-1980s after a 1983 meadow, which will lead to a sweet potential. Since the bar-
rickety ladder — some scram- becue experience is often
storm dismantled its forebear. Anglers have been known to hook cabezon, buffalo
bling over boulders will be in judged by the available sides,
sculpin, sea perch and even octopuses from its railings. It’s also been a favorite place order. Then walk along the Surf Market’s roasted sweet
for locals like restaurateur Elyse Hopps (co-owner of Gama, the county’s only Japa- beach for a half mile to see these potatoes and corn on the cob
nese izakaya, where the ingredients are hyperlocal) to sit on the dock of the bay with geologic wonders. Schooner are slathered with butter and
a pie from the iconic Point Arena Pizza (a takeout-only joint with a convenient wharf Gulch Road, parks.ca.gov then topped with chile
Surf Market BBQ: For the past crunch. 39250 S. Highway 1,
location) and watch the whales float by (peak migration is from November to April). decade, this vintage gourmet Gualala, surfsuper.com
Bodega Bay
You may not recognize Bodega Bay as the location for Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 thriller “The Birds.” But take a closer look at the subdued, tree-
less landscape and old-school fishing harbor, and you’ll soon be able to imagine huge flocks of fowl darkening the sky. The old Potter School-
house (now a private home) was the site of a key bird attack in the film, and can be found a few miles inland in the town of Bodega. Not far
from there is the Casino Bar & Grill, hardly a gambling hall as the name implies, but rather a favorite among locals for its homey decor and
sophisticated, farmers’-market-driven menu. Beach camping is popular in Bodega Bay. Where the Bodega Dunes campground is more seclud-
ed — that is, by a pleasantly strollable mile — from the popular surfer haunt Bodega Dunes Beach, Doran Regional Park has a beachside camp-
ground for immediate toes-in-the-sand gratification. Doran’s Bird Walk Coastal Access Trail, a 1.2-mile loop around saltwater marsh, turns a
morning constitutional into a birding excursion worthy of the town’s cinematic history. On any given day, you may see northern harrier rap-
tors, Bewick’s wrens, merlins and maybe even a bald eagle.
above the fog line, which will feel like

Stops you’re floating, no wine required. 15725
Coastal Bluff Trail at Sea Ranch: Meyers Grade Road., fortrossvineyard.
This 10-mile meander fronts Sea com
Ranch’s jagged coastal shelf and leads Bodega Head: Atop this granite
to a variety of outdoor experiences, promontory that protects the town of
not to mention endless close-ups of Bodega Bay from stormy ocean
the modernist enclave’s iconic archi- weather, the 1.7-mile Bodega Head
tecture. So rather than venture out for Nature Trail loops through wind-
an athletic hike, consider a more ex- swept meadows of California pop-
ploratory approach. Just be sure to pies, lupine and aster, plus large
stick to public-access paths. Head patches of ice plant. From November
down to Black Point Beach, just a two- through April, when gray whales
minute walk north from the newly make their annual migration from
renovated Sea Ranch Lodge, for a per- the cold feeding grounds of Alaska to
spective on the coastal terrace from Baja’s warm calving lagoons, this
the bottom of the bluff. Swimming is bulbous landmass, part of Sonoma
highly discouraged due to dangerous Coast State Park, is a prime viewing
rip tides. 60 Sea Walk Drive, the Sea spot along their 10,000-mile round-
Ranch, thesearanchlodge.com trip journey. Westshore Road, Bode-
Meyers Grade Road from Timber Cove ga Bay, sonomacounty.com
to Jenner: This higher-altitude detour Oysters on Tomales Bay: A slurping
is popular with motorists seeking a excursion to Marshall, on the eastern
brief respite from the twists and turns shore of Tomales Bay — the side that
of Highway 1. Along this approximately Highway 1 skirts along — is a favorite
11-mile route, you’ll find Fort Ross Win- pastime of Bay Area residents. Slide
ery. A reservations-required, 90-min- into a picnic table at Hog Island Oyster
ute wine tasting at the estate — a mod- Co., where a selection of freshly har-
ern mountain cabin surrounded by for- vested oysters — from buttery Kuma-
ests and meadows — is paired with moto to French Hog, a rare variety
small chef-prepared bites like risotto with coppery notes — is served raw
with leeks or beef sliders with peri-peri with a side of Hogwash, the jalapeño-
sauce, making the winery a pleasant pit spiked house mignonette. 20215
stop for the peckish over-21 set. If the Shoreline Highway, Marshall, hog
coast happens to be socked in, you’ll be islandoysters.com
The B. Bryan Preserve, left, aims to restore populations of threatened

species and educate the public about Africa’s natural wildlife habitats.

Bolinas
By now, this little shoreline bohemia’s be-
grudging attitude toward outsiders just adds to
its charm. For a place that takes its hidden-gem
status perhaps too seriously, enchanting ameni-
ties seem tailor made to oblige respectful visi-
tors: There’s a vintage inn (Grand Hotel) and a
cool new vacation rental (Ocean Parkway
House). There are quaint eateries (Coast Cafe is
a mainstay) and drinkeries (Smiley’s Saloon is
rumored to be the oldest continually operating
watering hole on the West Coast). Surf schools
(Bolinas Surf or Tamalpais Surf Club) capitalize
on Bolinas Beach’s beginner-friendly waves.
And art and history are under one roof at the
Bolinas Museum. In fact, Bolinas’ reputation as
a rustic artist colony has drawn A-list celebri-
ties, including married Oscar winners Joel Coen
and Frances McDormand, photographer Annie
Leibovitz and Grace Slick of Jefferson Airplane.
The shoreline of the Bolinas Lagoon, once lined
with hotels, is now a 1,100-acre protected tidal
estuary, part of the Golden Gate National Parks
Conservancy, where harbor seals, large waders
like herons and egrets, and birds migrating
along the Pacific Flyway take refuge.
the gently lapping waters

Stops of this under-the-radar
beach in Inverness, on the
Heidrun Meadery in Point west shore of Tomales
Reyes: This wine produc- Bay, swimmers may be
er, located on a pastoral surprised to find no fowl
300-acre former dairy in sight, but rather juve-
farm just outside of Point nile bat rays skimming the
Reyes Station, puts a spin shallows and fist-size jel-
on Northern California’s lyfish farther from shore,
winemaking heritage by making this beach a capti-
fermenting honey with vating aquarium setting
water to create sparkling for swimmers, paddle-
mead. If you’re new to this boarders and kayakers
grape-less style, a tasting (nearby Blue Waters Kay-
flight is a good introduc- aking, bluewaterskayak
tion to the “flower to flute” ing.com, rents watercraft
fizz. 11925 Highway 1, heid in half-day intervals).
runmeadery.com 13000 Sir Francis Drake
Chicken Ranch Beach: In Blvd., Inverness.
Locally grown oysters are served at the Tomales Bay Oyster Co. in Marshall.
Stinson
Beach
Visitors have either cruised in
on a roller-coaster section of
Highway 1, hiked in via challeng-
ing footpaths in the labyrinthine
Mount Tamalpais trail system
(the Matt Davis Trail from Pantoll
Ranger Station is the most pop-
ular route) or completed the fa-
mous Dipsea Race, the second-
oldest dash in the country (par-
ticipants have been grinding
through its 7.5 rugged miles from
Mill Valley to Stinson Beach since
1905). You’d think such arduous
travel would discourage tourism
in this normally sleepy coastal
town, but it seems only to make it
more alluring. This former World
War II observation post turns
into a slice of beachy Americana
on weekends and especially on
patriotic holidays, when barbecue
picnics fill the grassy 51-acre
beach park; colorful umbrellas
dot the town’s eponymous attrac-
tion, a 3-mile-long crescent of
white sand beach; surfers and
skimboarders vie for easygoing
waves and frothy shore break,
respectively; and the overall
mood among Stinson Beach visi-
tors is flag-wavingly festive.
Point Arena Lighthouse, right, is

the tallest of its kind on the West
Coast at 115 feet.

Stops do/point-reyes-tidepooling.htm
Dipsea Trail: This quintessential
Point Reyes Lighthouse: This west- Marin County trail dates to 1905,
ernmost point on the Point Reyes Na- when two friends — members of San
tional Seashore also happens to be Francisco’s Olympic Club — made a
the foggiest — and second-windiest wager: Who would finish first in a
— spot along North America’s Pacific strenuous footrace over 7.5 miles of
coast. After a 45-minute drive from rugged Mount Tamalpais terrain,
the town of Point Reyes Station, the starting at the Mill Valley train depot
journey culminates in a 313-step de- (Cascade Drive, Cascade Way and
scent to the historic lighthouse, Molino Avenue in Mill Valley) and
which transmitted its inaugural ending at the Dipsea Inn, a hotel in
beams a whopping 24 miles out to sea the coastal town of Willow Camp
in 1870 thanks to its “first-order” (now known as Stinson Beach). The
Fresnel lens, restored for posterity in Dipsea Race is now the second-oldest
2019. 27000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., footrace in the country behind the
Inverness, nps.gov Boston Marathon, and the oldest on
Hike the Marin Headlands: The mean- trail. Luckily you don’t have to par-
dering trails crisscrossing this rolling, ticipate in the annual June event to
rocky terrain, part of the Golden Gate experience the trail. What's more,
National Recreation Area, offer a lot of you don’t even have to finish in Stin-
weather — as a coastal prairie ecosys- son Beach, but if you do, consider a
tem, low-lying vegetation like coyote titular dip in the sea to celebrate.
bush and sage prevails, rather than www.dipsea.org
shady, wind-breaking trees — but that Rodeo Beach: Arriving at this semi-
kind of exposure to the elements also sheltered cove beach toward the end
translates to awesome views. Reward of a loop around Fort Cronkhite (1011
your effort with frosty pints at the Kirkpatrick St., Sausalito. Take the
nearby Pelican Inn, a 16th century- Miwok up to Wolf Ridge, then de-
style Tudor estate that seems like an scend on the Coastal Trail) includes a
English countryside mirage in the red- detour through military history. Hill
woods. 10 Pacific Way, Muir Beach, 88, about two-thirds of the way
pelicaninn.com around the loop, once housed Cold
Agate Beach/Duxbury Reef: Predom- War-era Nike missile bunkers and a
inantly pink thanks to a proliferation radar station. Once you reach the
of coralline algae, the tide pools at this beach, you’ll immediately notice its
large shale reef on the southern tip of unique sand geology — different iron
the Point Reyes peninsula can be easi- levels in undersea chert form the mul-
ly accessed through Agate Beach in ticolored pebbles. Rodeo Lagoon is a
Bolinas. Just like all discovery mis- brackish habitat for river otters,
sions to the intertidal zones along the American goldfinch and the endan-
California coast, it’s best to visit Dux- gered tidewater goby, a small fish that
bury, a state marine conservation lives its entire life in this shallow body
area, during an ebb cycle (consult the of water. parksconservancy.org/parks
NOAA tide table). nps.gov/thingsto /rodeo-beach
Top right: The Heidrun Meadery in Point Reyes Station makes sparkling
honey wine. Right: The Bodega Head Trail in Bodega Bay.

Sausalito
In picturesque Sausalito, houses either cling to hillsides in the vein of the Amalfi Coast, or float on the bay just as they
do, well, most famously nowhere else but here. Taking a self-guided tour of Sausalito’s iconic floating homes is a classic
way to pick up the local vibe, whether by land (a map of a 1.8-mile route, plus some etiquette pointers, is available) or by
sea (from Sea Trek on Richardson Bay, rent a kayak and paddle 15 minutes due north). While downtown Sausalito is a
borderline tourist trap, strolling the promenade is practically obligatory. At PBS chef Joanne Weir’s Copita Tequileria y
Comida, the juicy lamb quesabírria is a gamey, gourmet take on a trendy dish, and more than 100 tequilas and mezcals are
available. Head to Fish, at the Marina Plaza Harbor, for piled-high albacore tuna melts, grilled local octopus stew and crab
rolls to celebrate Dungeness season. Sausalito is also home to major forces of art and design. The Headlands Center for
the Arts, in historic Fort Barry, offers immersive experiences — open houses, workshops, nature walks, exhibitions, con-
versations and community meals — to allow visitors to engage with artists in residence. And a tour of the original Heath
Ceramics factory on Gate 5 Road is full of historic and artistic insight into the award-winning mid-century brand.
The tight-knit community of houseboats in Sausalito, above, float serenely at Waldo Point.
SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

The Taco Bell Cantina patio in Pacifica has a terrific view of Linda Mar Beach, fog permitting.
Cruise a slice of California’s Slow Coast

By Jill K. Robinson and Lands End to the Great Highway, mous artichoke soup at Duarte’s Tav- surfers.
which becomes a car-free zone for ern or a full-service taqueria in the Between Santa Cruz and Monterey,
Driving Highway1from San Francis- walkers, joggers and bicyclists on town’s corner gas station. In the fall, the tiny fishing town of Moss Landing
co to Carmel means embracing a slow weekends. Skip Interstate 280 in favor catch festivals celebrating the region’s sits at the mouth of Elkhorn Slough,
journey through some of California’s of Skyline Boulevard, which joins ubiquitous fog and record-huge one of California’s largest wetland
most beautiful coastal scenery. This Highway 1 as it sweeps into Pacifica. pumpkins. areas. Kayak rentals and boat tours are
route winds along cliffs and beaches, From Pacifica to Pescadero, you’ll Coming into Santa Cruz, a savvy de- popular with visitors, but also consider
sometimes veering briefly away from have your pick of beaches — from wide viation from Highway 1 to West Cliff the hiking trails that meander through
the Pacific Ocean before returning to and sandy to narrow and Drive keeps you right on the oak woodlands past tidal creeks and
the edge of Monterey Bay. Part of what rocky — plus the occasional MAP YOUR oceanside cliffs. Stop by Nat- freshwater marshes.
makes this place so spectacular is the pocket cove. Also, the world- TRIP ural Bridges State Beach and Each corner of the Monterey Penin-
vast marine protected area that has class tide pools at Moss its Monarch Grove of euca- sula has its own style — from historic
held back development in favor of pris- Beach, with their bright sea sfchronicle.com/ lyptus, which provides a Monterey, with its well-touristed Can-
tine beaches, jewel-box-like tide pools, stars and anemones, are not hwy1/slowcoast stopover for thousands of nery Row and world-renowned aquari-
and lush kelp forests. to be missed. monarch butterflies from um, to golf paradise Pebble Beach, art
Heading south from the Golden Gate Small-town vibes perme- late fall through winter. The colony Carmel-by-the-Sea, and wine
Bridge, Highway 1 cuts through the ate the coastal region here. Half Moon historic boardwalk and beaches make haunt Carmel Valley. Among them is
Presidio, past Golden Gate Park and Bay’s petite Main Street is a boutique Santa Cruz a classic California coastal Pacific Grove, known as Butterfly
Ocean Beach — all worthy stopovers shopping destination featuring the town, but many don’t know it’s also the Town, USA, a sanctuary for monarch
for an afternoon picnic or casual nature coast’s best sandwiches, at the Garden birthplace of mainland surfing. Dive in- butterflies.
walk — then finds the coastline again in Deli Cafe, as well as farm and garden to the culture at the Santa Cruz Surfing Cruising this slice of coast offers a
Pacifica. For a more scenic path shops that cater to local growers and Museum on a bluff that overlooks dip into the small-town flavors that
through the city, turn off Highway 1 and equestrians. The more rural Pescade- famed Steamer Lane break, which is of- keep the region fresh, even for those
wind along the coast past Baker Beach ro holds hidden delights, like the fa- ten packed with some of the best local who have been before.
San Francisco
Between the city and the Great Highway, which runs along Ocean Beach, Sunset and Richmond district residents embrace the neighborhoods’
reputation for fog with a wink, knowing it’s often sunnier than visitors expect. Start your journey by having brunch at Outerlands, known for its
driftwood decor and delicious grilled cheese sandwiches. Or visit Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant to discover why the margaritas have a global fol-
lowing. While Playland, the storied seaside amusement park, is long gone, those in search of outdoor fun have a wide swath of Golden Gate Park to
enjoy, from watching the bison paddock’s shaggy residents to lounging near six of the park’s 10 lakes. Shoppers in search of material items that
have a strong sense of this area’s vibe should drop in at Mollusk Surf Shop or General Store in the Sunset.
Stops the beach. Ocean Beach and the

Great Highway marks the western
Golden Gate Bridge: The 1.7-mile edge of Golden Gate Park, and those
Golden Gate Bridge spans the strait looking for more history can step in-
of the Golden Gate from San Francis- to the Beach Chalet to view WPA-era
co’s Presidio to the Marin Head- murals with scenes from the every-
lands. While the bridge is one of the day life of San Francisco and Golden
most driven sections of Highway 1, Gate Park.
pedestrians (including wheelchair Sharp Park Beach: Extending along
users and cyclists), can linger longer Pacifica’s waterfront near the Pacif-
below the 746-foot towers and 7,000- ica Municipal Pier and south to Mo-
foot-long cables. With two trailheads ri Point, this black-sand beach gets
on Lincoln Boulevard, the Batteries its distinctive color from the iron ox-
to Bluffs Trail above Marshall’s ide magnetite. The L-shaped pier is
Beach and Baker Beach features an one of the most popular fishing loca-
elevated view of the Pacific Ocean tions along the coast, and anglers of-
horizon, as well as the Presidio’s ten pull in salmon, striped bass,
western shoreline. Golden Gate surfperch, and jacksmelt. Located
Bridge Plaza, San Francisco. golden on a promontory, 110-acre Mori
gate.org/bridge/visiting-the-bridge Point was once a haven for settlers,
Lands End: At the northwestern cor- travelers and bootleggers, and today
ner of San Francisco, Lands End is part of the Golden Gate National
contains hiking trails, a memorial to Recreation Area. Beach Boulevard,
the USS San Francisco, the West Fort Pacifica. visitpacifica.com
Miley batteries and the ruins of Su- Linda Mar Beach: The southern-
tro Baths. Mile Rock Beach can be most of Pacifica’s large beaches,
found from the Lands End Coastal Linda Mar Beach is also known as
Trail and is a ruggedly beautiful Pacifica State Beach. The wide cove
place to enjoy the sunset. The Lands and crescent beach are beloved by
End Lookout Visitor Center was many who come for the surf, hiking
added in 2012, and has indoor exhib- trails and chilling out on the sand.
its and videos on the natural and cul- Nearby merchants include the Nor
tural history of Lands End, Sutro Cal Surf Shop and a beachfront Taco
Baths and Sutro Heights. 680 Point Bell that some believe is the most
Lobos Ave., San Francisco. nps.gov. beautiful of the fast-food chain’s lo-
Ocean Beach: This 3.5-mile beach cations. To the south, the Devil’s
forms San Francisco’s western bor- Slide Trail is a 1.3-mile paved foot-
der, and at one time, it was separated and-bike trail that was converted
from the rest of the city by a vast from a roadway to part of the Cali-
sand-dune wilderness. Between 1850 fornia Coastal Trail. 5000 Cabrillo
and 1926, 20 ships were wrecked on Highway, Pacifica. visitpacifica.com

The Golden Gate Bridge frames the city as seen from the Golden Gate
Viewpoint in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.

The Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Half Moon Bay hosts a variety of algae, crabs, sponges, sea stars, mollusks and fish.
Pacifica Stops
Fitzgerald Marine Reserve: This is one of the
most spectacular, accessible and protected
It takes only a 20-minute drive to feel as if you’ve been transported a world away tide pool sites along the Northern California
from San Francisco. Highway 1 cuts straight through Pacifica, between the South- coast. To get the most out of a visit, come dur-
ern Coast Ranges and the Pacific Ocean, and those tempted to blaze a trail south ing a low tide; the lowest tides tend to occur
have missed out on this city’s coastal vibe. Public lands surrounding Pacifica are around the time of the full moon and new
moon. Winding across the Moss Beach bluffs
part of one of the world’s largest urban national parks, the Golden Gate National is the California Coastal Trail, part of an effort
Recreation Area, and you can look out to the edge of the horizon from Milagra to connect more than 1,200 miles of trails
Ridge and Sweeney Ridge or stop for an oceanside moment at Mori Point. Since along the state’s coastline. Nearby, the historic
the Tom Lantos Tunnels between Pacifica and Montara were opened in 2013, the Point Montara Lighthouse is an 1875 fog signal
station and lighthouse that’s been repurposed
old roadway through Devil’s Slide has been converted into a 1.3-mile multiuse trail
into a hostel. 200 Nevada Ave., Moss Beach.
where hikers, runners and bicyclists can pause to enjoy gazing at the coastal wa- fitzgeraldreserve.org
ters without having to worry about keeping an eye on the road.
Half Stops
Pillar Point Harbor: A haven for
Moon both commercial and sport boat-

ers, Pillar Point Harbor is also an
ideal spot for those who love the
Bay ocean. It’s home to Mavericks, the

big-wave surf break that shows up
in winter months and lures avid
surfers to test their mettle against
With a population of
either the huge waves or the more
approximately 12,583, the forgiving swell at Surfers Beach at
city of Half Moon Bay the harbor’s south jetty. Enjoy the
may be the largest of its view from the beach or handful of
Coastside neighbors harbor restaurants, or venture out
on a kayak or stand-up paddle-
(Montara, Moss Beach board at Half Moon Bay Kayak Co. 1
and El Granada), but it’s Johnson Pier, Half Moon Bay.
still a small town. The smharbor.com
Half Moon Bay State Beach: Half
region is an agricultural
Moon Bay State Beach is made up
center for farmers, Pillar of of four beaches: Francis Beach,
Point Harbor is an active Venice Beach, Dunes Beach and
commercial and sport Roosevelt Beach. The combined 4-
fishing harbor, and Half mile stretch of wide, sandy beach
has day-use parking at each of the
Moon Bay is a day-trip four beaches — the most popular of
haven for Bay Area resi- which is Francis, with both the
dents. Historic Main Half Moon Bay State Beach Visitor
Street is home to bou- Center and the California State
Park Ranger Station. Get suste-
tique shops, art galleries, nance at the Barn, a casual restau-
cafes and restaurants — rant with locally sourced ingredi-
many in renovated 19th ents, or Dad’s Luncheonette, where
century buildings. Sandy reinvented roadside classics are
served from a historic train ca-
beaches line the coast,
boose. Cabrillo Highway, Half
ideal for beachcombing, Moon Bay. parks.ca.gov
long walks and spying Pescadero State Beach/
migrating California Pescadero March Natural
Preserve: About 17 miles south of
gray whales. Big-wave
Half Moon Bay, this 2-mile state
surf spot Mavericks lur- beach is the gateway to the 500-acre
es skilled surfers eager Pescadero March Natural Preserve,
to ride 60-foot-high which hosts resident bird species
waves in winter, but and birds migrating along the Pacif-
ic Flyway. Head a short distance in-
smaller waves also land to the town of Pescadero for ar-
abound, as well as op- tichoke bread at Arcangeli Grocery,
portunities for stand-up goat cheese from Harley Farms, and
paddling, kayaking, sail- an excellent meal at Duarte’s Tavern.
Drop by the Pigeon Point Light Sta-
ing and fishing. Visit in tion, one of the tallest lighthouses in
fall to see fields packed the United States at 115 feet high.
with bright-orange View one of the world’s largest
pumpkins just in time mainland breeding colonies of
northern elephant seals at Año Nue-
for the Half Moon Bay vo State Park. Cabrillo Highway,
Art & Pumpkin Festival. Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle Pescadero. parks.ca.gov
Fisherman George Jue at Pillar Point Harbor, a haven for anglers in Half Moon Bay.
Pescadero
Heading south from Half Moon Bay gets you into Slow Coast territory —
that 50-mile stretch of coastal land that stretches to Santa Cruz, dotted with
you-pick farms, goat dairies, breweries, wine tasting rooms, produce stands,
local stores with live music, redwood forests and pocket beaches. Tucked 2
miles inland from the coast, the small town of Pescadero retains its old-
school vibe as part of the coast’s farming and ranching community. Slow
down and wander the relaxed main drag, which has a variety of shops, mar-
kets, restaurants and cafes where you can find locally made furniture, wine,
olallieberry pies, artichoke bread and grilled fish tacos. At the edge of town,
spy farm animals from pigs to dairy goats. Road bicyclists love riding the
lesser-used ribbon of Stage Road that runs from downtown Pescadero to San
Gregorio, or following Pescadero Creek Road into the hills to Loma Mar and
La Honda.
Stops time with other pursuits. The 855-foot-

long Capitola Wharf sticks out into So-
Natural Bridges State Beach: Named for quel Cove, and is often an uncrowded
its rock arches that were carved by the place to fish and enjoy the views. Birds
ocean, Natural Bridges State Park has on- flock to the lagoon that’s formed by So-
ly one remaining, and it’s one of the most quel Creek just behind the beach. San
photographed beach icons in the state. Jose Avenue and Esplanade, Capitola.
The beach is right on the western edge of cityofcapitola.org
urban Santa Cruz and is a popular family Seacliff State Beach: A mile-long ex-
park with excellent tide pools at low tide. panse of sand connects this popular
It’s also home to a eucalyptus grove that’s camping, walking, fishing, and picnick-
been designated a natural preserve for ing spot with New Brighton State Beach,
migrating monarch butterflies, which where wooded bluffs provide expansive
overwinter in this location from mid-Oc- views of the Monterey Bay National Ma-
tober to mid-February. 2531 W. Cliff Drive, rine Sanctuary. Seacliff is known for its
Santa Cruz. parks.ca.gov fishing pier that extends out to a concrete
Santa Cruz Beach: Known by many as tanker, the SS Palo Alto, constructed
Boardwalk Beach, the Santa Cruz Main during World War I. While the ship is
Beach is a south-facing beach that closed to the public, it attracts an im-
stretches from the mouth of the San Lo- mense variety of birds and marine life.
renzo River to the Santa Cruz Municipal Nearby, Marianne’s Ice Cream is a great
Wharf and is home to the Santa Cruz stop for a beach treat. State Park Drive,
Beach Boardwalk. On the other side of Aptos. parks.ca.gov
the wharf is Cowell Beach, and a little far- Elkhorn Slough: The remnents of an an-
ther west along West Cliff Drive is the cient river valley, the main channel of
Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, overlook- Elkhorn Slough winds 7 miles inland,
ing famous Steamer Lane. Check out the feeding 2,500 acres of rich marsh and
museum’s exhibits to learn about the re- tidal flats. Countless fish, sea lions and
gion’s history of surfing. 108 Beach St., sea otters, as well as pelicans, herons
Santa Cruz. cityofsantacruz.com and egrets, call the slough home. Explore
Capitola Beach: Right in the heart of by kayak or on miles of well-maintained
Capitola Village where multicolored trails. Don’t miss spending time in tiny
buildings line the sand, Capitola Beach is Moss Landing, a fishing village with art
an intimate beach beloved by surfers and studios, antique shops and seafood res-
beachgoers alike. With plentiful restau- taurants like Phil’s Fish Market & Eatery.
rants and shops in the village, there are Cabrillo Highway, Moss Landing.
plenty of options to for combining beach elkhornslough.org
Top right: Thistle Hur Fresh Produce in Moss Landing. Right: Sunflowers
burgeon at the Perfume Camp in downtown Pescadero. Photos by Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Santa Cruz
A surf-town playground, mellow Santa Cruz takes the edge off urban angst the moment
you look at the ocean. From Steamer Lane to the Hook, big action abounds for skilled surfers,
and you can watch from a spot on the cliffs when waves are epic. Mellow Cowell’s Beach is
one of the best places for beginners, and experienced surf class instructors turn hodads into
hotshots daily. Browse through surf shops filled with wet suits and beach gear, or chill out
and people-watch at the Boardwalk. At the heart of this college town, the tree-lined streets
are lined with sidewalk cafes, surf shops, art galleries and a global taste tour of restaurants.
Get a very different look by traveling into the Santa Cruz Mountains, where the significant
change in scenery makes it seem as if the drive should have lasted longer. From farms to red-
woods, it may be difficult to believe you’re still in Santa Cruz.
The Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, above, is a venerable tourist attraction and great fun for kids.
Capitola
When you look at the brightly painted cottages
along the sandy beach, you may understand why
Capitola is California’s original resort town. Capitola
City Beach has sweeping views of Monterey Bay, a
long wooden fishing wharf and sailboats along with
smaller craft like kayaks and paddleboards scattered
beyond the surf. Surfers delight in the consistently
good waves here, and lessons are plentiful. The city
itself is quite small (just 1.6 square miles) and much
of Capitola looks the same as it did in its early days,
but the community offers plenty of modern-day ap-
peal. The Village, the city’s shopping and dining dis-
trict is packed with big style and flavor. Swing by on
Labor Day to catch the Capitola Begonia Festival,
which has been around since 1952 and features a
parade with begonia-laden rafts floating down Soquel
Creek.
Stops
Fort Ord Dunes State Park: A former military processing
and training center, Fort Ord was decommissioned in 1994
and transferred to California State Parks in 2009. About
14,500 acres of the former military reservation became Fort
Ord National Monument in 2012. Enjoy the miles of trails
on foot or bike, or skip straight to the beach to look for mi-
grating whales. Stop at nearby spots in Sand City and Sea-
side for an after-adventure thirst quencher at Post No Bills,
Counterpoint Coffee or Other Brother Beer Co. Beach
Range Road, Marina. parks.ca.gov
Downtown Monterey: Stretching from Old Fisherman’s
Wharf through a few blocks in downtown Monterey are
landmarks in the city’s Spanish, Mexican and early United
States past, as well as more modern additions that make life
pleasurable. Wander the wharf to spy sea life and perhaps
find a place for lunch, visit the Cooper Molera Adobe — one
of the most important historic properties that continues its
service into the present, and snag a beer at Alvarado Street
Brewery or coffee at Captain + Stoker. 1 Old Fisherman’s
Wharf, Monterey. seemonterey.com
Monterey Bay Aquarium: With a mission focused on in-
spiring conservation of the ocean, the Monterey Bay
Aquarium has more than 200 exhibits and 80,000 plants
and animals that give visitors a look into the world at and
below the surface and its impact on the Earth. Its location
on Cannery Row connects it to the area’s past era of fishing
and canning and to its evolution from an extractive to a sus-
tainable mindset. Grab a bite at Hula’s Island Grill, which is
a member of the aquarium’s Seafood Watch program high-
lighting environmentally friendly products. 886 Cannery Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Row, Monterey. montereybayaquarium.org Scott Sherwood strolls the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk on a warm late-summer day.

Carmel Beach is right at the foot of town and has good surf, evening sunsets and a long stretch of sand for walking alone or with your dog.
Moss Landing Stops

Asilomar State Beach and
spend their time from November
to February. Sunset Drive, Pacific
Grove. parks.ca.gov
Coastal Trail: The 1-mile Asilo- Stillwater Cove: Kayakers and
In the middle of the half-moon sweep of Monterey Bay, the blink-and- mar Coast Trail, adjacent to the paddleboarders love the natural
you’ll-miss-it town of Moss Landing is the gateway to the Monterey Canyon, flat, sandy strip of Asilomar State beauty of Stillwater Cove when
one of the deepest submarine canyons on the West Coast of the United States. Beach, meanders among rocky it’s calm and glassy. The protect-
Here you can get away to the old-school vibe of California fishing towns that coves where harbor seals and sea ed inlet between Pescadero
otters often seek refuge. Near the Rocks and Arrowhead Point in
move at nature’s pace. Spot wildlife at Moss Landing State Beach (an impor- trail, the Point Pinos Lighthouse Pebble Beach also happens to be
tant stop along the Pacific Flyway for seabirds and shorebirds) and in Elk- is the oldest continually operating the backdrop between the 7th
horn Slough — a 7-mile-long tidal slough where you can hike on trails or get lighthouse on the West Coast, and and 17th holes of Pebble Beach
a close-up view on a guided kayak tour. Taste fresh seafood straight off the was also a social hub in early Pa- Golf Links. There’s a fee ($11.25)
cific Grove. A short walk inland is per vehicle for the famed 17 Mile
boat at local restaurants, such as Phil’s Fish Market and the Whole Enchila-
the Pacific Grove Monarch Sanc- Drive, but for some, the spectac-
da. Literary fans can check out the rare book and reference collection at the tuary, one of the largest overwin- ular landscape is more than re-
Shakespeare Society of America’s New Shakespeare Sanctuary. tering sites in the country, where ward enough. Cypress Drive,
migrating monarch butterflies Pebble Beach. pebblebeach.com
Stops
Carmel Beach: Right at
the foot of Ocean Ave-
nue, Carmel Beach is
beloved by many for
Monterey good surf, evening sun-

sets and the long
stretch of sand for
walking alone or with
Monterey has been home to your dog. There are no
native Rumsen Ohlone commu- bad days when you can
nities, has served as the capital witness extreme dog
of Alta California under Span- joy here. The beach is
an excellent home base
ish and Mexican rule, and is for a day trip in Car-
where the state of California mel-by-the-Sea, and
was born with the signing of and visitors to the vil-
the state’s first constitution in lage can view local art
at the Carmel Art Asso-
1849. Since then, the Monterey
ciation Gallery and
region has branched out and choose from a wealth of
grown up, but it retains much restaurants (such as La
of its rich history. Monterey and Bicyclette and Toro Su-
its neighbors — small-town shi) for a meal. Ocean
Avenue, Carmel-by-
Pacific Grove and fashionable the-Sea. seemonterey.
artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea com
— have beautiful beaches, per- Garland Ranch
Regional Park: Visitors
forming and fine arts venues,
to Carmel-by-the-Sea
outdoor pursuits, stylish shops, shouldn’t overlook the
epicurean delights and an in- rolling hills of Carmel
land region known for wine Valley, packed with
and agriculture. Old Fisher- vineyards and hiking
trails. The 4,462-acre
man’s Wharf in Monterey is Garland Ranch Re-
steps from the city’s adobes and gional Park is a popu-
gardens from the Spanish and lar spot for hikers (and
Mexican era, and Cannery Row is also dog friendly),
with a wide range of
has morphed from a fishing trails — from the East
center to a bustling spot with Ridge Trail and Sniv-
shops, ocean-view restaurants, ely’s Ridge Trail with
and a world-class aquarium. views of the valley and
Ventana Wilderness to
Even relaxing on Monterey’s
the easier Buckeye Na-
oceanside bluffs may bring the ture Trail. Drop in at
chance of spotting a migrating Folktale Winery &
whale. Vineyards for some of
the region’s wine and
Cafe Rustica for some
California-style com-
fort food. 707 W. Car-
mel Valley Road, Car-
Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle mel Valley. mprpd.org
A coastal path at the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Half Moon Bay.
BIG SUR
Scenery and serenity

on an iconic stretch
By Gregory Thomas ers to pull over at every turn- grounds. Pfeiffer Big Sur and
out, the landmarks-cum-sel- Julia Pfeiffer Burns state
If California’s coast is a fie magnets Bixby Creek parks are centrally located
treasure, then Big Sur is its Bridge and McWay Falls, and and bookend the local pub,
jewel. The dramatic, beautiful the familiar comfort of state deli and bakery as well as the
region, where the redwood- parks stationed along the wonderful historic restaurant
studded Santa Lucia Moun- highway. But if that’s the Big Nepenthe.
tains plunge straight into the Sur you know, you’re barely Hiking trails branch off the
mighty Pacific, rivals any oth- scratching the surface of an highway all over the place.
er place on Earth for scenery incredible place. Short walks to the west get
and serenity. Eighty years ago, the region you to coastal bluffs and pock-
To be clear, we’re talking served as a refuge for Holly- et coves where you might find
about the 70-mile corridor of wood celebrities escaping the yourself alone, transfixed by
remote, undeveloped coast- spotlight. Then it became a the hypnotic pounding of the
line that links the Monterey bastion of backwoods beat- Pacific surf. To the east, the
Peninsula south to the San niks, hippies and soaring mountains
Luis Obispo area, through homesteaders, who MAP YOUR are cut through
which Highway 1 twists and are said to have TRIP with steep river
turns through dappled forests planted some of canyons. The steep,
sfchronicle.com/
and winds along crumbling California’s first grueling terrain —
hwy1/bigsur
cliffs. Here the roadway isn’t cannabis farms at the Big Sur River
just a charming thoroughfare, there. That alterna- Gorge, Partington
it’s the community’s lifeline to tive-lifestyle heri- Cove or farther
the outside world. tage lives on in places like the south at Salmon Creek, for ex-
You won’t find high-rise Henry Miller Memorial Li- ample — rewards hikers with
hotels or chain stores or even brary, a bohemian bookstore high views of the jagged coast-
a downtown shopping district and performance venue line.
in Big Sur. Restaurants, gas named for the late poet; Sykes Dotting the landscape near
stations and even bathrooms Hot Springs, the clothing-op- and along Highway 1 you’ll al-
are few and far between. The tional backcountry hangout, so find art galleries, water-
overarching vibe is understat- and the Esalen Institute, the falls, an elephant seal refuge
ed and rustic: Unless you’re holistic retreat center where and more overlooks than you
shelling out for a high-priced people go to find themselves. can count. Driving south,
room at one of the few luxury Heady vibes aside, Big Sur you’ll know the experience is
resorts tucked into the trees, today is as true a hideaway as coming to an end when the
you’re probably sleeping in an you’re likely to find in such a mountains flatten out and you
old wooden cabin or a tent on world-class setting. hit the turnoff for Hearst Cas-
the ground. And yet, Big Sur Most of the steep, forested tle, a century-old palatial es-
attracts about 6 million visi- terrain east of Highway 1 is tate-turned-tourist attraction
tors a year, a higher volume classified as wilderness, but in San Simeon. You’ll feel a
than Yosemite National Park. blocks of nature parks and visceral comedown leaving
There is obvious appeal to preserves along the road Big Sur, but this special place
casual tourists: sweeping make it easy to find the best will be there when you’re
ocean views that compel driv- beaches, trailheads and camp- ready to come back.
The endlessly photogenic Bixby Bridge in Big Sur, left, is a popular stop along the road.

BIG SUR
Stops
Point Sur: The centerpiece of this state
historic park is a lighthouse perched on a
chunky volcanic-rock outcropping that
juts into the Pacific at Big Sur’s northern
edge. The former naval facility here once
tracked Soviet submarines. Today, you
have to book a docent-led tour to visit,
and it’s well worth it to hear the stories of
top-secret missions and Cold War mili-
tary strategy. 19 miles south of Carmel,
parks.ca.gov.
Garrapata Beach: Driving south along
Highway 1 from Carmel toward Big Sur,
Garrapata is the first beach you’ll hit, and
it’s a doozy. Spread across a broad cove
and flanked by sharp rock outcroppings,
it’s a gorgeous slice of NorCal’s rugged
shoreline. The surf here absolutely
slams, which makes swimming a no-no
but creates a transportative auditory sen-
sation — like a cleansing sound bath.
Bring a book and a towel and post up be-
neath the bluffs. 6.7 miles south of Rio
Road, parks.ca.gov.
Bixby Creek Bridge: This unmistakable
concrete bridge has appeared in more
than 125,000 Instagram photos. For that
alone, it surely ranks as one of Highway
1’s most iconic landmarks. You can’t walk
on the span, but you can marvel at it from
a small parking lot at its north end. Break
out your selfie stick and snap some pics.
Andrew Molera Beach: What makes this
beach unique is its remoteness. It’s locat-
ed at the end of a wide, hard-packed dirt
path that extends a mile from the dusty
parking lot through the scrubby expanse
of Andrew Molera State Park. The beach
itself is a lovely sandy crescent, great for
walking end to end or soaking up some
rays. It’s also one of Big Sur’s most obvi-
ous surfing breaks. Near mile marker
51.2, parks.ca.gov.
Pfeiffer Beach in Big Sur affords a

close-up of some dramatic sea stacks,
one of which features the famous
Keyhole Arch.

Pfeiffer Beach: The main sandy area at spot for hiking and camping (near Park is an old hippie hangout along the Henry Miller Memorial Library: This
Pfeiffer Beach happens to be a front- mile marker 47.2), with several great Big Sur River where the water is warm rustic combination bookstore, perfor-
row seat to some dramatic sea stacks, trails and an easy-access waterfall. and clothing is optional. To get there, mance space and nonprofit venue is
one of which features Keyhole Arch, a Buzzards Roost Trail, on the west side park at the Big Sur Station and hike 10 the beating heart of Big Sur’s commu-
cavernous tunnel that is one of Big of Highway 1, is a perfect 2.6-mile loop miles due east of Highway 1 along the nity arts scene. You’ll find a well-pre-
Sur’s most recognizable features. that culminates in a fine overlook of Pine Ridge Trail. This is a wilderness served link to Beat writers Jack Kerou-
When the sun drops low it blasts the the Pacific. On the other side of the zone, and you’ll pass several other glori- ac and Lawrence Ferlinghetti, who
arch with photogenic shafts of light. highway is a 1.5-mile loop trail that ous backcountry campgrounds along celebrated the region in their works.
Note: The small parking lot here fills up passes through a redwood canyon to the way. Note: Sykes was once notori- During summer evenings you might
quickly and early, so plan accordingly. the 60-foot Pfeiffer Falls. ously over-loved, with litter all along the catch an outdoor film screening or
Sycamore Canyon Road, fs.usda.gov Sykes Hot Springs: Buried deep in the trail, so please be especially respectful other event. 48603 Highway 1, Big Sur,
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park: A central mountains behind Pfeiffer Big Sur State of the environment here. henrymiller.org
The Henry Miller Library, above, combines a bookstore, performance space and nonprofit venue for Big Sur’s community arts scene.
BIG SUR

Gamboa Point in Big Sur, a wild area of stupendous Pacific views from the cliffs above its undulating shoreline.
Nepenthe: This historic Big Sur in- way 1 north of Julia Pfeiffer Burns quick sightseeing detour. back soon! esalen.org
stitution marries fine dining with ca- State Park is Partington Cove. Park Esalen Institute: A bastion of Big McWay Falls: You’ve more than likely
sual vibes and an unbeatable view of on the shoulder and stroll down the Sur’s hippie roots, the retreat center seen photos of McWay Falls celebrated
the undulating shoreline south for steps west of the roadway to a jagged clings to the cliffs in a remote part of in travel magazines or floating around
tens of miles. Nepenthe is a rustic protuberance above the rollicking, the coast, seemingly unencumbered the internet. People just love the sight
lodge-like restaurant with intimate foaming ocean. Or head east up Par- by the wider world. This is a place of this natural oddity: It’s a solid
lighting, wraparound windows, a tington Creek on a tough uphill trail where weekend clients come to cen- stream of water that plunges from a
nice wide patio, and quality surf- that passes beneath redwood stands ter their spirits and explore the lim- rock outcropping directly into the
and-turf menu options. While you before opening into panoramic its of human potential. While it’s sandy beach 80 feet below. You can’t
wait for an open table, sidle up next views of the ocean from on high. The generally not open to walk-in visi- access it, and it’s only visible from a
to the patio fire pit with a margarita historic, falling-apart Tin House res- tors, before the pandemic you could narrow viewing platform just off
and meet some new friends. 48510 idence, said to have been built as a visit between 1 and 3 a.m. to take ad- Highway 1 inside Julia Pfeiffer Burns
Highway 1, Big Sur, nepenthe.com hideaway by Franklin Delano Roo- vantage of their thermal baths for a State Park. But if you’re in Big Sur, stop
Partington Cove: On a bend of High- sevelt, is up here too, and worth a small fee. Hopefully they bring them by to see what all the fuss is about.
Jade Cove: This craggy cove has the unfortunate rep-

utation of generating authentic jade stones that casu-
al visitors can harvest easily along the beach. But
that’s not exactly accurate: The place has been well
picked over, and removing rocks above the mean
high tide is illegal. Still, it’s a gorgeous spot to sit in
and marvel at the powerful Pacific. A short hike
across a flat meadow gets you to the bluffs. Getting
into the coves (there are more than one) is a little
trickier in the very steep terrain.
Salmon Creek Trailhead: Here is a remote nook with
hard hiking and great rewards. A short 0.3-mile walk
through the canyon gets you to the 120-foot cascade of
Salmon Creek Falls, but intrepid backpackers use
this as a jumping-off point into the Silver Peak Wil-
derness of Los Padres National Forest. The Buckeye
Trail between Salmon Creek and Soda Springs Trail-
head offers exceptional views of the southern end of
Big Sur. fs.usda.gov
Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas: The beach at
Piedras Blancas is awash in wriggling, sausage-like
elephant seals several times throughout the year.
They come to molt, mingle and deliver fresh pups.
Expect lots of barking and snorting, with the occa-
sional mano-a-mano battle between aggro males.
While the beach is off-limits to visitors, there are
viewing areas above that are free and open daily.
15950 Highway 1, elephantseal.org
Hearst Castle: At the southern end of Big Sur, above
San Simeon, is this historic estate, a monument to
Gatsby-era opulence that has made for a fun tourist
attraction since 1954. Apart from the 115-room Gothic-
ish manor, there are gardens and viewing pools, all
available to tour. (Reservations are strongly recom-
mended.)

Nepenthe, an institution in Big Sur, is a rustic restaurant with ocean views, an inviting patio
with fire pits and a gift shop full of colorful home decor and other items.
CAMBRIA TO SANTA BARBARA
Wine, waves and wide-open spaces

By Robert Earle Howells
Below Big Sur, both the scenery and

the vibes begin to mellow out. Once
you’re south of Hearst Castle, Highway
1’s tight twists loosen up a bit and the
horizons broaden out. The towns here
are a bit less counterculture than Big
Sur’s moody little burgs, and more ac-
cessible beaches come with sand that is
actually sandy and surf that is surfable.
Californians call this stretch from
Cambria to Santa Barbara the Central
Coast: San Luis Obispo and Santa Bar-
bara counties. The highway only traces
the coastline about half the time here,
but you won’t mind the inland digres-
sions. Cruise the unsung wine country
of Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Val-
ley, which are home to dozens of artisan
and family-owned wineries just a few
miles east of the highway. It’s easy to
take westward side jaunts to some
nearly secret coastal enclaves, such as
Montaña de Oro near Los Osos, and the
isolated, windswept Jalama Beach near
Santa Barbara.
The Central Coast has some culinary
action going too. Tri tip is the beef cut of
choice in these parts, and Santa Maria-
style barbecue — entailing a piquant
dry rub and grilling over local oak
wood — is the way to savor it. Fresh sea- Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
food is abundant, of course: The Cen- Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area in Grover Beach is a playground for ATVs and dune buggies.
tral Coast produces its own salmon, al-
bacore and oysters. Don’t get too enam- their wares in any number of down- Cal Poly at the Shore, just a slender sliv- and a flirtation with missile-famous
ored with the chowder, though. Even town settings. You’ll find individual er and not much surf, but it’s snugly Vandenberg Space Force Base.
though Pismo Beach still claims to be and cooperative tasting rooms in Cam- protected from chilly wind and hence a When you rejoin 101 and hit the coast
the clam capital of the world, commer- bria, Morro Bay, San Luis Obispo, Pis- great swimming and sunning beach. again, the water’s warmer, the surf con-
cial harvesting of its famous clams mo Beach, Arroyo Grande, Lompoc Pismo Beach is actually three beach- sistent and the views huge. Santa Bar-
ceased decades ago. Still, farm-to-table and Santa Barbara. If you don’t happen es. The northernmost stretch, home of bara Channel and the Channel Islands
is a totally legit concept in this region, to have a designated driver, tour opera- the Pismo Pier, is for walking and remain in sight all the way to the out-
where foggy mornings nourish every tors will shuttle you to some swimming. So is the next skirts of Santa Barbara. Gaviota, Refu-
vegetable you can name, plus arguably of the top local vineyards. MAP YOUR stretch south, but you’ll gio and El Capitan state beaches have
the state’s juiciest strawberries. NorCal and Big Sur cer- TRIP share it with a steady stream day-use parking and camping.
Highway 1 doesn’t pass directly tainly have beaches, but of vehicles taking advantage In Santa Barbara, our route feels
sfchronicle.com/
through many Central Coast vine- when you reach the sandy of one of the state’s few much more freeway than classic coast
hwy1/SLO
yards, but viticulture is often just a shores of Cayucos, the beach- stretches of 2WD drivable highway, but you’re also in one of the
short side trip off the highway. The gen- es become friendlier: more beach. Farther south, the state’s most beautiful cities, and it mer-
erally cool climate produces some high- open (which can mean hardpack beach and the un- its an exit and an exploration. Follow
ly regarded Chardonnays and Pinot windy), more accessible, and with finer dulating Oceano Dunes become a con- beach-hugging Cabrillo Boulevard to
Noirs, among other varietals. Santa sand that’s less grating on bare feet. The tiguous playground for ATVs and dune visit the city’s harbor, wharf, very pro-
Barbara Wine Country lies a bit more water is chilly, of course, but that’s what buggies. tected beach and the artsy, foodie-ha-
inland. While excursions on rolling wet suits are for. In SLO County, the After Oceano, Highway 1 jogs inland ven Funk Zone. Fortify with a street ta-
country roads to any of them can be en- best beaches for surfing and splashing for 65 miles. This stretch has its co and a microbrew and soak in the
joyable, the side trips aren’t necessary are at Cayucos, Morro Bay and Pismo charms, mainly in the form of rolling street scene. You’re definitely not in Big
— local vintners conveniently proffer Beach. Then there’s Avila Beach, a.k.a. hills through farm and ranch lands, Sur anymore.

Dinosaur Caves Park in Pismo Beach has a kids’ playground and an extensive grassy area overlooking the headlands.
Cambria Stops
Moonstone Beach: Whether you opt
miles of trails spread across coastal
bluffs and into Monterey pine for-
ests.
for the boardwalk that runs the Harmony: The onetime dairy town
Cambria’s two aspects, coastal and arty, are different worlds that length of Moonstone Beach on the of Harmony is now an artists’ haven
are both worth exploring. Its coastal strand, Moonstone Beach, is a bluffs above or stroll on the sand be- that proudly proclaims itself the
mile-long stretch of bluffs and beach flanked on the inland side by a low, it’s easy to understand why this smallest town in California, popula-
succession of small inns and upscale motels. The bluffs are laced with single mile is one of the most beloved tion 18. You can watch artists at work
stretches of coast in California. The in a couple of workshops, grab some
trails, and several staircases lead down to the beach. A quick inland views out to sea and up and down homemade ice cream or taste wine at
turn from the highway puts you on Main Street, with its collection of the coast are wonderful. There are Harmony Cellars (3255 Harmony
fine-art galleries and boutiques interspersed with coffeehouses, wine- tide pools to explore, driftwood to Valley Road, Harmony, harmonycel
tasting rooms and restaurants. Cambria’s artsiness doesn’t feel tour- admire and at the south end, all man- lars.com) just up Harmony Valley
ner of gulls, cormorants and egrets Road from the little town. Just south
isty; there’s an authenticity to the galleries and a farm-to-table ear-
to watch in the mouth of Santa Rosa of town and across the highway,
nestness at eateries like Linn’s, which has been proffering fresh pies Creek. A string of popular motels some of Harmony’s old cattle range
for more than 40 years. There’s a nice dash of quirkiness, too: a local lines the inland side of Moonstone is now Harmony Headlands State
affinity for faux-Tudor half-timbered architecture and a nonpareil Beach Drive. For a slightly wilder Park, featuring a 4.5-mile lollipop
work of folk art in the form of Nitt Witt Ridge. oceanside walk, head a mile south to loop trail out to some rugged coastal
Fiscalini Ranch Preserve, where 8 bluffs.
Cayucos
As California coastal towns go, Cayucos is like flyover country — high-
way travelers tend to zip by on their way to Morro Bay or Hearst Castle.
All the better for travelers who put on the brakes in this town, which
distills so much into a small beachside footprint. Cayucos is truly on the
beach — a broad sandy strand that stretches for miles, clear down to
Morro Rock. The water is Central Coast cold, but the surf is good and the
beach is never crowded. The heart of the town consists of a single street,
Ocean Avenue, lined with mostly old-fashioned facades. Pretty much
every other building houses an antique shop, one of which, called Re-
member When, hosts a bunch of vendors on three floors. In other words,
if it’s not a beach day, there’s still plenty of cruising to do for collectibles
and vintage goodies. Twice a year, the whole street is given over to the
Cayucos Antique Street Faire. Don’t miss the historic, 950-foot Cayucos
Pier, always worth a stroll to see what they’re catching, or to watch surf-
ers and kiters cutting through the froth.
Stops Shell Beach: It’s within Pismo Beach city

limits, but locals would never call this
Nitt Witt Ridge: When you’ve had your neighborhood anything other than Shell
fill of Hearst Castle’s studied opulence, go Beach. Its most eye-catching aspect from
gawk at Nitt Witt Ridge. The late Art the highway is Dinosaur Caves Park,
“Captain Nitt Witt” Beal spent decades which has a kids’ playground par excel-
creating his own multitiered hillside cas- lence and an extensive grassy area over-
tle out of flotsam, jetsam, sea-polished looking wave-worn headlands. The caves
stones and whatever else he came across themselves can be explored via kayak —
— toilet lids, washer drums, advertising rentals and guides are available at Cen-
signs, abalone shells and beer cans by the tral Coast Kayaks. And the bluffs can be
hundreds. The result is a remarkable further explored on foot alongside Ocean
work of folk art that is a California histor- Boulevard, which is also great for gawk-
ical landmark. The place recently sold, ing at some stunning residential architec-
and tours have been discontinued; check ture.
with the Cambria Chamber of Commerce Pismo Preserve: One of the top recent
for the latest information. Or just drive good-news stories of the California
by. 881 Hillcrest Drive, Cambria. coast is Pismo Preserve — 900 acres of
Montaña de Oro State Park: It’s some- oak-studded hills spared from develop-
thing of a bonus Big Sur, this stretch of ment several years ago and opened to
SLO coast and mountain, and well worth the public in 2020. Wonderfully sculpt-
a side trip. Most visitors venture no far- ed trails weave into the landscape, wan-
ther than Spooner’s Cove, a tiny crescent der into dense oak groves, and serve up
of beach framed by rock formations and vistas of serene mountainscapes and
tide pools. But there’s also a camp- the Edna Valley, plus coastline stretch-
ground, a dramatic hiking trail that trac- ing from Port San Luis to Point Sal.
es the coast along wildflower-strewn Don’t be fooled by its proximity to the
bluffs, and a trail that reaches 1,347-foot highway — after two bends of the trail,
Valencia Peak for a jaw-dropping view. all you hear is birdsong and hawk cries.
There’s a bonus to the bonus, too: From The 11-mile network of trails is open to
the south end of Montaña de Oro, you can hikers, equestrians and mountain bik-
access another 3-plus miles of coast on ers. 80 Mattie Road, Pismo Beach. pis
PG&E’s Point Buchon Trail. 805-772-6101, mobeach.org
parks.ca.gov
Top right: Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area in Grover Beach.
Right: Dinosaur Caves Park, which has an excellent playground. Photos by Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Morro Bay
“Three stacks and a rock” isn’t great as far as tourism catchphrases go, especially since
Morro Bay has so much more going for it than its obvious landmarks. The town’s trio of
curiously beloved 450-foot concrete smokestacks and the 576-foot dome of Morro Rock
may dominate the skyline, but what defines Morro Bay is its relationship to the sea. It has
long been, and still feels like, a fishing village. Watching the tos-and-fros of its endemic
fishing boats is part of its charm, and there’s no shortage of harborside places for dining on
or purchasing the catch of the day. Once you start strolling here, you’ll quickly observe that
a 3-mile-long sandspit frames the oceanfront and protects the harbor. That makes Morro
Bay Estuary perfect for sea kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Rentals and guided
tours are available, and you’ll almost certainly be shadowed by curious pinnipeds or sea
otters. The town itself stretches up from the estuary to Highway 1, an easily walkable grid
with all manner of shops, galleries and eateries. At the south end of town, Morro Bay State
Park is home to one of the prettiest campgrounds on the coast, as well as a golf course
that’s a fair facsimile of Pebble Beach, minus the hefty greens fees.
Avila Beach, above, is small and protected, making it a great place to take the kids swimming.
San Luis
Obispo Stops
Monarch Butterfly Grove: As you
The same qualities that drive south from Pismo Beach
put San Luis Obispo on so proper and skirt Pismo State
many lists of best places to Beach’s North Beach Camp-
live and happiest places on ground, you reach a eucalyptus
grove that may or may not be
Earth also make it one of
showing more orange and black
the coolest cities to visit on than green in its high branches.
Highway 1. It’s a vibrant From October to February, this
college town (Cal Poly San grove attracts overwintering mon-
Luis Obispo) with histor- arch butterflies by the thousands.
Or tens of thousands — the num-
ical charm — Mission San bers of endangered monarchs has
Luis Obispo de Tolosa is surged upward the last couple of
smack dab in the center — seasons, after years of dishearten-
that’s walkable, bikeable ing decline. The dense clusters of
gently fluttering butterflies make
and enjoys perpetual great for a stunning sight. A short trail
weather. If you’re not sip- provides peeking perspective,
ping java at a Scout Coffee while a kiosk houses docents and
sidewalk table, you’re din- souvenirs. Tip: The trail also cuts
through sand dunes to a lovely, ve-
ing by candlelight next to hicle-free stretch of Pismo Beach.
San Luis Obispo Creek, 445 South Dolliver, Pismo Beach.
which snakes through the parks.ca.gov
downtown core. It’s also Pismo State Beach: The ramp
and parking area at the foot of
the cynosure of a burgeon- Grand Avenue in Grover Beach
ing wine region, distinct provide the most convenient ac-
from Paso Robles to the cess to the hard-packed sand of
north. SLO’s wineries are Pismo Beach. To drive on said
sand, purchase a day-use pass and
arrayed south of town in
proceed on the state park’s vehicle
the Edna Valley and Ar- ramp to drive south. Ask about
royo Grande Valley — gor- tides and conditions if you’re in a
geous country worth a side 2WD passenger vehicle. A large
journey. If that’s not pos- parking lot and a short boardwalk
get you onto the northern, vehicle-
sible, drop by Region, a free stretch of Pismo Beach, where
tasting room downtown you can walk 1.25 miles to Pismo
that represents 26 local Pier and downtown Pismo Beach.
wineries. SLO is a great Or you can venture no farther
than the parking lot and just relax
home base for beaching — at Fin’s Seafood, which has out-
it’s 20 minutes to Pismo, door seating protected by glass
Avila or Montaña de Oro. from the generally chilly wind.
Plus there’s great hiking at
the Irish Hills Preserve and
the town’s signature sum- Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
mit, Bishop Peak. Avila Beach is a favorite with families because of its protected site.
Clara Mokri/Special to The Chronicle
Avila Beach Stops Oso Flaco Lake: A freshwater lake

in the middle of extensive sand
Oceano Dunes SVRA: The state dunes sounds preposterous, but
Avila Beach the town is the home of Avila Beach the beach, and park ramp at the foot of Pier Avenue that’s exactly what Oso Flaco is. A
that alone makes both Avilas worth a visit. The beach is small, but in Oceano is the gateway to Oceano short, flat trail leads through wil-
wonderfully protected by framing hills. It’s without question the Dunes State Vehicular Recreation low thickets to a boardwalk that
nicest swimming beach in San Luis Obispo County. The waterfront Area, where ATVs and dune bug- spans the lake, making a walk here
gies can drive on Pismo Beach to ac- a gentle experience. Beyond the
town, comprising just a few square blocks, has an old-fashioned cess the thousands of acres of sand lake, the boardwalk leads through
feel, very pedestrian friendly, with the obligatory T-shirt shops, dunes open to off-road-vehicle use. the Oceano Dunes to a short trail
snack offerings, bike rentals, a few sit-down restaurants, a micro- Shops along Pier Avenue rent bug- that opens onto the beach. Techni-
brewery and a top-notch coffeehouse, Kraken Coffee. The land- gies and ATVs and provide safety cally Oso Flaco is in the Oceano
equipment, directions and instruc- Dunes SVRA, but the dunes and
mark town pier is currently getting a makeover, but there’s another
tion to get you started. The Oceano beach are off-limits to vehicles
pier north of town that’s the centerpiece of Port San Luis, Avila’s Dunes Visitor Center near the ramp here, making this a serene alterna-
boating- and fishing-oriented neighbor, also ideal for kayaking and is also a resource for all sorts of dune tive to the OHV hubbub just to the
stand-up paddleboarding. It’s the launching pad for a visit (hike, info, including an exhibit about the north. Oso Flaco also has decent
paddle or van tour) to the 1889 Point San Luis Lighthouse. Also, Dunites, a utopian sect that lived in bass and bluegill fishing, and it’s a
the dunes in the 1920s and ’30s. The favorite site for birders. 3098 Oso
Avila Valley is home to the Bob Jones Trail, a 3-mile path to the SVRA is also open to beach and Flaco Lake Road, Arroyo Grande.
beach for hikers and bikers, as well as two mineral springs resorts. dune camping, for which you’ll need parks.ca.gov
Avila Hot Springs is a modest day-use place with a huge, naturally four-wheel drive. ohv.parks.ca.gov
headed soaking pool; Sycamore Mineral Springs is a lovely full-
A dramatic hiking trail traces the coast along wildflower-strewn
service spa and historic hotel tucked up against an oak-studded bluffs at Montaña de Oro State Park in Los Osos.
hillside.
Arroyo Grande
AG, as the locals call it, is well worth a visit, par-
ticularly for its historic core, known as the Village.
The heart of the Village is Branch Street, which has
wine-tasting rooms at both ends that proffer the
bounty of the Arroyo Grande Valley as well as other
California wines. The few blocks in between are
lined by buildings that date to the early 20th centu-
ry, housing boutiques, two great coffeehouses —
Mule Bakery and Cafe Andreini — a microbrewery
and several sit-down restaurants with outdoor din-
ing. Word to the wise: Don’t miss Doc Burnstein’s
Ice Cream Lab. AG’s most charming site is the
Swinging Bridge across tree-lined Arroyo Grande
Creek. The cable-suspended footbridge (whose fore-
bear dates to 1875) links Branch Street to grassy
Heritage Square Park, with its museums, one-room
schoolhouse and bandstand, where a brass band
might just be offering up some musical Americana.
Guadalupe
The old farm and rail town of Guadalupe seems
frozen in time. Its two-story buildings are more
than a century old, while fading advertisements on
their brick facades hark back to some vague mid-
century era. If it seems like family-run Mexican
restaurants fill most of those old buildings today,
well, that’s practically true, and you can’t go wrong
pausing for a meal in any of them. Guadalupe also
makes much of its proximity to the Guadalupe-
Nipomo Dunes, and even if you don’t venture to
that isolated stretch of beach and dunes to the west,
be sure to stop at the Dunes Center in the heart of
town. There you’ll learn not only about the natural
history of the dunes but also about a fascinating
historical footnote known as the Lost City of De-
Mille. It was in the nearby dunes that Cecil B. De-
Mille filmed his 1923 silent epic “The Ten Com-
mandments” — and afterward ordered his “City of
the Pharaoh” set to be buried in the sand. Some of it
has been excavated, and artifacts are on display in
the Dunes Center. Viewing a large chunk of papier-
mache sphinx seems somehow a quintessential
Clara Mokri/Special to The Chronicle
California experience. Oceano Dunes in Grover Beach is open to beach and car camping and, of course, frolicking.
Lompoc
Why Lompoc bills itself as the City of Art and Flowers is fairly apparent as you drive through and around town. Seemingly every downtown
building is a giant canvas for local muralists, and if your timing is good, you’ll see broad fields brightly spangled with cultivated flowers ar-
rayed nearby. The fields are constantly rotated, but your best bet is to explore just west of town. The flowers, which are grown for seed, are
generally blaring their colors from April through September. As for the murals, there are dozens — you can’t miss them, but they’re worth an
appreciative stroll. Some depict local history, some honor nearby Vandenberg Space Force Base, and others are just plain whimsical. Lompoc’s
Santa Rita Hills are the westernmost aspect of Santa Barbara wine country, and wine tasting here couldn’t be more convenient. The Lompoc
Wine Ghetto houses a cluster of urban wineries and tasting rooms in an old industrial complex just a block off Highway 1. Lompoc is also a
perfectly situated jumping-off spot for two side trips — west to Jalama Beach for camping, surfing and beach strolling and east to La Purisima
Mission State Historic Park. The 1820s mission is one of the prettiest and most extensively restored missions in the state.
Stops lama Burgers” (they merit the rep-

utation), Jalama has a throwback,
Casmalia: There’s pretty much one almost counterculture feel, as if
reason to make the five-minute de- you were huddled up against the
tour off Highway 1 to tiny Casmalia, wind in the middle of nowhere. It’s
and that’s to chow down at the a favorite with surfers, kiters and
Hitching Post, one of the Central radical SUP paddlers, which
Coast’s most venerated barbecue means spectating is also one of Jala-
destinations. The family-run road- ma’s many pleasures. 9999 Jalama
house has been slow-cooking aged Road, countyofsb.org/638/Jalama
beef over local red oak wood since -Beach
1944 in a building that’s more than a Santa Barbara Coast State Parks:
century old. (Yes, there are a few If you’re driving south, a few miles
other menu options, including ribs, after Highway 1 rejoins U.S. 101, you
chicken and seafood.) The wine list emerge from a long stretch of rug-
naturally favors local vintages. The ged hill country to a view of the
restaurant’s wine and barbecue Santa Barbara Channel, an expan-
culture were featured in the 2003 sive vista broken only by the Chan-
film “Sideways,” though the actual nel Islands (and maybe the odd oil
filming took place at the Hitching derrick). Three state parks along
Post 2, 34 miles away in Buellton. this pre-Santa Barbara stretch of
3325 Point Sal Road, hitchingpost1. coast are home to three of the state’s
com most coveted beachside camp-
Jalama Beach County Park: grounds, and each has day-use
Whether you’re making the twist- parking for beachgoers. First up is
ing, 14-mile drive off Highway 1 to often-windy Gaviota State Beach,
get there, navigating the big west- in the shadow of a tall Southern Pa-
facing surf or walking your pooch cific rail trestle. Nine miles down
along the isolated, windswept the highway, Refugio State Beach
shoreline, Jalama has all the hall- features a palm-lined cove for a bit
marks of a “find.” Even though of tropical ambience. Three miles
there’s a campground with seven later is El Capitan State Beach,
simple cabins, a general store and a which boasts tree-shaded camp-
grill that serves “world-famous Ja- sites by the beach. parks.ca.gov
The sprawling Hearst Castle in San Simeon, right, offers many tours
highlighting different parts of the estate.

Santa Barbara
Nestled between the rugged Santa Ynez Mountains and the south-facing beaches of Santa Barbara Channel, Santa Bar-
bara almost seems too good to be true. It’s a city that honors its glorious setting and heritage with a prevailing adherence
to Mediterranean and Spanish Revival architecture, and every vista in every direction seems ... just perfect. Not that Santa
Barbara takes itself entirely seriously. For Highway 1 travelers, one of its signature attractions is the five-square-block dis-
trict known as the Funk Zone. The onetime grimy semi-industrial site is collection of eateries, coffeehouses, wine-tasting
rooms, shops and galleries, right at the foot of the city’s main drag, State Street. A short stroll from there are the beach,
Stearns Wharf and Santa Barbara Harbor — a pleasant combo of working fishing harbor and how-the-other-half-lives
yacht slips. Rent a stand-up paddle board or kayak to nose around or a bike to easily venture a bit farther on the ocean-
front Cabrillo Bike Path. There’s a whole inland world of Santa Barbara as well — lovely State Street, the Santa Barbara
Mission and the mountain foothills, the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, devoted exclusively to California native plants.
Montaña de Oro State Park in Los Osos has a beautiful cove, a campground and a dramatic hiking trail that traces the coast.
VENTURA TO SAN DIEGO
Soak in the views and beach culture

By David Ferry
The fog has lifted. The sand is burn-

ing your feet. Everywhere you look
there are sweating coolers, lobster-red
tourists and statuesque men and wom-
en taking beach volleyball very, very se-
riously.
Rejoice: You’ve left the land of don’t-
forget-to-bring-a-sweater beaches and
are now in Southern California.
Around these parts, Highway 1 is a
state of mind. It’s windows down on a
balmy evening, fish tacos at a beach-
side shack, bustling piers and funky
boardwalks. It’s the subject of song
and sitcom, the often spectacular, al-
ways gridlocked artery that connects
20 million Southern Californians to
miles of prime beach — the great com-
mons where residents can escape the
smog, lay out a towel and relax.
This stretch of Highway 1 between
Ventura and San Diego snakes
through some of the most expensive
real estate on Earth, but the route isn’t
just for elites. Your time on the 1 — it’s
the 1 now, thank you very much —
starts in Ventura, the last working-
class beach town in Southern Califor-
nia. You’ll see more agriculture than
waves as you roll through southern
Ventura County. Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle
Then the freeway darts back to the The Skatepark in Venice, the last working-class beach town in Southern California.
sea and you’ll begin one of the more
spectacular drives in America. The leave Malibu, the 1 takes a surprisingly whole peninsula of million-dollar are treated 20 miles of rugged coast-
highway gets a glamorous new name, urban tour through California’s biggest views. Just as you grow sick of seeing line as it must have appeared to the In-
too: Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH to city. The road turns inland at the Santa Hollywood producers’ beach villas, digenous tribes that called this land
locals. Note that unlike other, num- Monica pier and, for the next 35 miles you’ll come to Long Beach, known for home in precolonial times. This part
bered freeways in Southern California, — which will take you nearly two hours producing both gangsta rap and $23 of the highway, thanks to the sprawl-
“PCH” stands on its own, inexplicably to cover during rush hour, FYI — Neapolitan pizzas. ing Marine Corps’ Camp Pendleton, is
article free. It’s also customary to adopt through the weird, wild west side of Once you hit Orange County, almost wholly undeveloped. Beautiful
a slight vocal fry when referencing it Los Angeles. though, things get distinctly as it is, it’s a double-edged sword: Un-
aloud. Muscle Beach and the chill. Every beach town of- less you’re enlisted, the MPs won’t let
MAP YOUR
The road, scraped majestically from Venice boardwalk are only a fers something different: you stretch out on its white-sand
TRIP
the Santa Monica mountains, careens few blocks away, if you’re Seal Beach is made for dog beaches.
and curves its way above world-class looking for kitsch. Abbot sfchronicle. walks on the sand, Hunting- The 5 will take you right into bustling
surf breaks and primo beach campsites Kinney Boulevard is even com/hwy1/socal ton Beach literally trade- downtown San Diego. If that’s not your
until it hits the ritziest city of them all: closer, if you find yourself marked the name Surf City, scene, explore the Coast Highway (101)
Malibu. Home to celebrities, moguls missing San Francisco’s Laguna Beach is as boho- through Oceanside or the 75 onto Coro-
and trustafarians, Malibu is the beating Mission District. The intoxicating chic as you’d expect. And all along, the 1 nado Island. Whatever you do, make
heart of L.A.’s beach culture. It’s where smell of al pastor, wafting from street- clings to the coast, passing pristine ma- sure to soak it all in — try a California
Johnny Utah learned to surf and Iron side food carts, makes the bumper-to- rine preserves tailor-made for stand-up burrito or post up on Torrey Pines and
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves $42 crab bumper traffic a little less annoying. paddleboarding and kayaking. scan the horizon for whale spouts —
tempura with an ocean view at his There are quiet beach communities South of the beach towns, the road because in a few short miles you’ll hit
eponymous, world-beating restaurant. like El Segundo and Redondo Beach has one more trick for you: Highway 1 the Mexico border and your epic coast-
Soak in the views, because after you and tony enclaves like Palos Verdes, a becomes Interstate 5. Here, motorists al journey will be complete.
Stops
Ventura
Ventura Bell Arts Factory: In a
sprawling old mattress factory,
a boho crowd of artists created
the Bell Arts Factory, a commu-
Ventura is as unpreten- nity arts center that houses 30
tious and laid back as Bev- studios, galleries and work-
erly Hills is puffed up and spaces, plus workshops, yoga
classes and more. It’s like step-
plastic. The geography of
ping into San Francisco’s Mis-
the coastline here insulates sion District, but before the
this peaceful, working-class third-wave coffee shops and
beach town of 100,000 from condos claimed all the ware-
the sprawl of the South- house space. 432 N. Ventura
Ave., Ventura, bellartsfactory.
land, and Ventura is one of org
the last stops on the high- Leo Carrillo State Park
way before the gravitational camping: There are precious
pull of Los Angeles sets in few campsites in SoCal that
come with an ocean view — even
— a last breath of fresh air fewer near an excellent surf
before the smog. The city break. Leo Carrillo State Park
recently closed off five backs up against the Santa Mon-
blocks of Main Street to ica Mountains, which is chock
full of hiking trails, and has a
cars in response to the CO- mile and a half of pristine beach
VID pandemic, creating an at the northernmost edge of Los
inviting pedestrian prome- Angeles County. Book early.
nade lined with restaurants 35000 W. Pacific Coast High-
way, Malibu, parks.ca.gov
and cafes. Hit nearby Lure Point Dume: Pull off the road
Fish House for tasty bi- near Paradise Cove and walk a
valves or Finney’s Craft- perfect beach before you hit civi-
house for a damn good bur- lization in L.A. Point Dume is
about a mile and half north, a
ger. Downtown is also
promontory lording it over sev-
home to a growing number eral rocky coves. Climb the
of breweries, including re- sketchy steps to the top of the
gional standout Topa Topa bluff and scan the horizon for
Brewing Company, named whales and dolphins. Westward
Beach Road, parks.ca.gov
for the city’s purple-hued Neptune’s Net: This place is
mountain range. If, after perhaps the most famous of the
your pint, those mountains seafood shacks that line this
are calling, you can follow stretch of highway, a delightful
outdoor stop that attracts bikers
them inland down a lovely and beachcombers and every-
(and flat) bike path to the one in between. Go for the fried
bohemian town of Ojai. If shrimp taco. (42505 Pacific
it’s seawater you crave, Ven- Coast Highway, Malibu, nep
tunesnet.com). But there are
tura and its harbor are also more: Malibu Seafood (25653
the gateway to the Channel Pacific Coast Highway, malibu
Islands, SoCal’s fabulously seafood.com) makes a mean fish
diverse offshore “American and chips; Broad Street Oyster
Co. serves a lobster roll that
Galapagos.” would make a Mainer proud.
23359 Pacific Coast Highway,
Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle Malibu, broadstreetoyster.com
The 1920s-era Manhattan Beach Aquarium is at the end of the town’s quaint pier.

Sunrise at Surfrider Beach in Malibu, in the heart of Southern California’s surfing culture.
Malibu Stops
Surfrider Beach in Malibu: Steps
of an old hippie hangout and was
once home to Neil Young, Jim
Morrison and the Beach Boys’
from the highway is Surfrider Dennis Wilson. After charging
Few beach towns are as etched into our psyche as Malibu, playground of Beach, the most famous surf spot your crystals, Topanga State Park
the rich and famous, incubator of mainland surf culture. The Pacific Coast on Earth. It may also be the most has some of L.A. County’s best
Highway opened this stretch of coastline to Angelenos in the 1930s. Surfers crowded wave on Earth, but it’s hikes. From craggy Eagle Rock
came first, recognizing one of the world’s best point breaks when they saw it; still a pilgrimage any surfer has to you can see clear to Catalina Is-
make. If surfing’s not your thing, land. parks.ca.gov
“Gigi,” the 1958 surf classic, put the town squarely on the beach party map. Malibu’s pier is perfect for a stroll, Star Tour of Will Rogers State
Then the celebs moved in, building coastal mansions and the homes that line and the fancy farm-to-table res- Beach: The sands of Will Rogers
Highway 1 all the way into L.A. There’s plenty to do in this sandy Xanadu. taurant there, Malibu Farms, is State Beach were featured in the
The Santa Monica Mountains offer great hiking and biking. Surfrider is the lovely. 23000 Pacific Coast High- Keanu Reeves action flick “Point
way, Malibu, parks.ca.gov Break” and, even more famously,
most famous beach, but the best one is probably Zuma, with its ample park-
Santa Monica Mountains: If you the ’90s television show “Bay-
ing, soft sand and lifeguards. If you’re looking for something more secluded, need your chakras cleansed, you watch.” The beach is excellent.
park at the Paradise Cove Beach Cafe, stop in for a drink or bite, then take in could do worse than Topanga With miles of sand, it’s lively but
idyllic Paradise Cove. El Matador beach, nestled between two headlands, can Canyon. The town — not much not crowded, with beach volley-
feel surprisingly intimate for a beach in a county with 10 million people. more than a collection of charm- ball galore. 17000 Highway 1, Pacif-
ing wooden shops — is something ic Palisades, beaches.lacounty.gov
Santa Monica Stops

Santa Monica Pier: With its 85-foot-high
Ferris wheel jutting out into the Pacific,
Within Los Angeles, there is a divide: Westside versus Eastside. Neighborhoods on the Santa Monica Pier is the closest thing in
Eastside are hipper, more diverse, maybe more exciting. But Santa Monica, standard bearer of SoCal to a mirror image of the Santa Cruz
the West, looks the way Los Angeles does in your dreams. There are beautiful people eating Beach Boardwalk. Is it touristy? Yes. A bit
outdoors, there are palm trees, and it is 74 degrees all year long. The town of Santa Monica downtrodden? Sure. But the rickety roller
coaster comes with a great view, and
has distinct zones and it’s surprisingly walkable for L.A. County. Above Highway 1 there’s there’s funnel cake here too. Once the nov-
Palisades Park, a long green expanse that follows the sea and is perfect for strolling or jog- elty wears off, Santa Monica’s famous
ging. Then, moving east, there’s the bustling shopping area of Third Street, which is one of Third Street Promenade mall is a five-min-
the nicer outdoor malls you’ll come across. Head up to leafy Montana Avenue if you’d like to ute walk away. santamonicapier.org
shop at smaller businesses and gawk at the houses Hollywood producers live in. Ocean Park,
Santa Monica’s southernmost neighborhood, is a good place for dinner, with everything from The canals in the Venice neighborhood of
legs and thighs at the Caribbean-style Cha Cha Chicken to a full duck à la presse at Pasjoli. Los Angeles look bohemian but serve
When evening falls, Father’s Office is rightly known as one of the better bars in the country. expensive homes.
Venice
Venice is a place of wild contrasts: a hippie
stronghold where houses sell for an average of $2.1
million, the birthplace of the counterculture skate
scene, the spiritual home of bodybuilding, and
now the heart of L.A.’s tech scene. The city crams
a lot into 3 square miles, and, luckily for you,
much of it can be seen on foot. Along the sea, you
have the Venice Boardwalk, home to Muscle Beach
(the outdoor gym Arnold made famous), a world-
class skate park and thousands of the self-defined
weirdos who make California great. Walk a few
blocks inland and you hit Abbot Kinney Boule-
vard, an enticing post-hipster shopping street that
specializes in flat whites and sunglasses few can
afford. And follow your nose a few more blocks
east to Lincoln Avenue, where you can find some
of the best al pastor tacos on L.A.’s Westside, grid-
dled up on sidewalk carts before your eyes.
Vista Del Mar, Playa Del

Stops Rey, beaches.lacounty.
Venice Canals: Inspired com. Also, be warned: The
by the canals of one of the police enforce the beach’s
world’s most cherished no-alcohol policy. Hit El
historic cities, the canals Segundo Brewing, a short
here are absolutely noth- drive away, instead of risk-
ing like their Italian coun- ing a citation. 140 Main St.,
terparts. But a walk down El Segundo, elsegundo
these tacky urban water- brewing.com
ways — which afford ex- LAX In-N-Out: There are
cellent opportunities to 221 In-N-Outs in Califor-
peer directly into $7 mil- nia and at least 74 in L.A.
lion homes — is so L.A., alone. And yet, the little
even the most loyal Nor- one beside Los Angeles
Cal native can’t help but International Airport, just
enjoy it. off the highway, may be
Dockweiler State Beach: the best outpost in the
For a city built along the country as well as being a
beach, L.A. is short on local landmark. Watch
places for that paramount wary Californians tuck in-
summer evening activity: to their first double-dou-
the beach bonfire. Dock- bles in weeks to the sound
weiler State Beach is your of screaming jumbo jets
best bet for grilling dogs and enjoy. Sepulveda Ave-
and toasting s’mores on a nue and 92nd Street, loca
warm night. It gets crowd- tions.in-n-out.com/117
ed, so arrive early. 12000 -Los-Angeles

Jeremy Pearson shows off his roller skating moves at the Venice Beach Boardwalk.
Long Beach
It’s about 10 years too late to break the news about Long Beach’s “revitalization.” The city, home to the country’s largest port and the birth-
place of Snoop Dogg, long conjured imagery of longshoremen and gangster rap. Today, Long Beach is a delightfully diverse, lively city. Fourth
Street is the spot for chewy artisanal sourdough pizza, old record shops and vintage clothing. Head toward the water and stop by the mam-
moth Aquarium of the Pacific, or dine on the Queen Mary, a 1936 ocean liner moored by the dock, which just reopened after years of COVID
closure, and is home to an excellent brunch. Belmont Shore is a cute beach town hidden within this industrial city, and nearby Rosie’s Dog
Beach has more dogs going nuts in the shore break than you can shake a stick at.
Stops Outside of Hawaii, Huntington has

as much surf history as anywhere,
Manhattan Beach Pier: Manhattan and the town’s International Surfing
Beach, a nice beach town toward the Museum is a charming way to while
southern end of the Santa Monica away an hour or two. It features
Bay, is an ideal stopover for when the funky old boards and stoke lore ga-
kids start making noise in the back- lore. If you’ve never surfed, the beach
seat. At the end of the town’s quaint here is a nice spot to learn when the
pier is a 1920s-era aquarium. (Man- waves are small. 411 Olive Ave., Hun-
hattan Beach Boulevard and Ocean tington Beach, huntingtonbeachsur
Drive). Gawk at the small sharks and fingmuseum.org
eels, then head back downtown for a Crystal Cove State Park: With over 3
cone at Manhattan Beach Creamery, miles of spectacular beach and acres
an old-school ice cream shop, 1120 of parkland, Crystal Cove State Park
Manhattan Beach Ave., mbcream is one of the last undeveloped
ery.com/ice-cream stretches of coastline in Southern
Redondo Beach Harbor: King Har- California. (Excluding Camp Pen-
bor, in Redondo Beach, is a working dleton’s acres of perfect beach, 40
harbor right next to some of the most miles south, that is.) There are tide
expensive real estate in the country pools, waves good for body
— a place where gruff fishermen rub boarding, and a beach cafe and bar.
elbows with confused tourists. Rent Also, State Parks rents out refur-
a kayak or sailboat and make your bished old cottages just above the
way toward the surprisingly rugged sands. There aren’t too many places
Palos Verdes peninsula. Once you’ve like this in the state. 8471 North Coast
worked up an appetite, head down to Highway, Laguna Beach, parks.ca.
Quality Seafood, the largest family- gov
owned fresh fish market on the west Laguna Beach State Marine
coast. Order something alive and Reserve: Off the coast of Laguna
watch the white-aproned workers Beach, a series of state marine re-
gut it and cook it for you over a fire. serves protect 6 miles of rocky reefs
Fresh Santa Barbara urchin, cracked and sprawling kelp forests that are
right before your eyes, is magic. 130 home to octopuses, seals, dolphins
S. International Boardwalk, Redon- and more. Rent a kayak in Laguna
do Beach, qualityseafood.com and there’s a strong chance you’ll see
Huntington Beach International some of these sea creatures. Brave
Surf Museum: After a long and con- the chilly waters with scuba or snor-
tentious trademark battle with Santa kel from the aptly named Diver’s
Cruz, Huntington Beach won the Cove (near Heisler Park off Cliff
right to call itself Surf City, USA. Drive) and you’ll be in for a rare treat.

Fundi Legohn plays the French horn along a Southern California beach.
Newport Beach
Wealthy, laid back and sunny, Newport Beach is the theme song of the
“OC” teen soap in physical form. The interesting parts of town are mostly
spread across a peninsula and a couple of islands. Your first stop is the newly
redeveloped Lido Marina Village, which is filled with hip shops and water-
front alfresco dining, and connected to charming Lido Island, a pleasant spot
to stroll. Next, cleanse your palate at the Balboa Fun Zone, an old-school ar-
cade and amusement park that somehow hasn’t been converted into condos.
Then, if your feet are tired, rent an electric Duffy boat and cruise around the
placid harbor at 5 mph with a bottle of wine.
though, Del Mar Racetrack has brought

Stops back the glamour. There’s an opening-
Carlsbad Flower Fields: From March to day hat contest, a focus on social media
May, the hills of northern San Diego Coun- and fashion, and, of course, good old-
ty come alive for a brief floral show that fashioned betting. 2260 Jimmy Durante
rivals any in the country. Part working Blvd., Del Mar, dmtc.com
ranch, part tourist attraction, the Carlsbad Balboa Park: Every city worth its salt has
Flower Fields feature 50 acres of ranuncu- a big park, but few rival San Diego’s.
lus, a technicolor display that’ll inspire Larger than Golden Gate Park, Balboa
gardeners and Instagram influencers Park is not only a green haven in the mid-
alike. Also included: a sweet pea maze, u- dle of the city, it’s an art lover’s paradise.
pick berries and rows of red, white and Its jewel is the Spanish Village Art Cen-
blue petunias that make up a 300-foot- ter, a collection of 85-year-old Spanish
long American flag. Buy a bouquet on Revival-style buildings — think white
your way out. theflowerfields.com plaster and red tile roofs — that are home
Del Mar Racetrack: Built in 1936 and re- to hundreds of art studios and shops.
plete with Spanish Revival architecture, 1549 El Prado, San Diego, balboapark.org.
the Del Mar Thoroughbred Club recalls Walk five minutes in any direction and
an era when a day at the racetrack was a you’ll find a museum to enjoy, too. There
red-letter event. But after years of declin- are 17 total in the park, and the Timken
ing attendance, this track was in a funk, Museum of Art, with its 17th century
frequented only by people actually inter- masterpieces, is free. 1500 El Prado, San
ested in horse racing. In the past decade, Diego, timkenmuseum.org
Top right; San Onofre State Beach, a popular surfing destination, in San
Clemente. Right, the view from the Manhattan Beach Pier.

Encinitas
Encinitas pulls together the best parts of north-
ern San Diego County in one place. Several beach
towns make up this city of 100,000, but wherever
you stroll, it’s all sandals and jean shorts, yoga and
spearfishing, fish tacos and kombucha. North of
town, Leucadia is eclectic and funky; to the south,
Cardiff-by-the-Sea is a beach town within a beach
town, home to Swami’s, one of the state’s best surf
breaks. If you want to wake up with the sea
breeze, save on a hotel and book a campsite at San
Elijo State Beach. Cliffside spots are just $35 and
overlook the Pacific.
Stops
Coronado Island: Perched in the middle of San Diego’s
busy bay is the resort island of Coronado. The Hotel del
Coronado, which opened in the 1880s, is the centerpiece
— and the rumored inspiration for the Eagles’ song —
but you don’t have to check in to enjoy the island. Rent a
bike and see the whole coast. Or make like a SEAL — the
Navy’s elite forces train on the island — and swim in the
warm seas. There’s a busy dog beach, a public golf
course with views that would normally cost $25,000 in
membership fees, and a charming downtown, too. 1500
Orange Ave., Coronado, hoteldel.com
Tijuana Estuary: The Tijuana Estuary, a riparian oasis
trapped between two mega-cities, is your last stop be-
fore Mexico. Here, in the largest wetlands in SoCal, right
on the international border, you feel miles from the city.
There are gentle hikes, ample tracks for horseback rid-
ing and excellent birding. The highway ends here, but if
you’ve got a passport, Tijuana is just minutes away.
trnerr.org

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve North Beach in San Diego.
San Diego
San Diego has been dismissed as a mini L.A. — uncontrolled sprawl in the guise of a city, but without Hollywood, the Getty or Beverly Hills. But
San Diegans don’t care. They know they live in paradise. La Jolla, with its renowned playhouse, is completely charming. North Park and South
Park, just above downtown, are walkable, lively neighborhoods with cafes, vintage shops and great gay bars. Petco Park is every bit as nice a ball-
park as Oracle and a lot warmer for a summer night game. The city is a bastion of Mexican food. Tacos El Gordo in Chula Vista serves Tijuana-
style tacos that’ll make you re-evaluate every other taco you’ve had. But be careful not to fall prey to the cult of authenticity: They put french fries
in their burritos here and smother whole plates of them in nacho toppings, too. You should paddleboard in the bay, bike the length of the coast,
hike up Grant Hill for the view and stop by Waterfront Park for a picnic among the late French American artist Niki de Saint Phalle’s weird, wild
sculptures. Then, yes, you should go check out the San Diego Zoo, the most visited and perhaps best zoo in the country.
The landmark Hotel del Coronado, above. You can check in any time you like, but you don’t have to — you can just walk in and look around.
THE ULTIMATE HIGHWAY 1 ROAD TRIP
A heart-shaped shrub in Sonoma

County along California Highway 1.

Highway 1 Story

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Highway 1 Story

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Ultimate

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Inspiration for a perfect coastal getaway

Deb Wandell Maggie Creamer

Danielle Mollette-Parks Andrea Behr

The San Francisco Chronicle

Bill Nagel Ron Kitagawa

CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Scruffy towns and pure redwood awe

Stops to explore on foot as well. The newly

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

Arcata Yurok Country: The Yu-

Stone Lagoon visitor center (15336

CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

Photos by Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Shelter Cove Trinidad Bay: With its tony-

CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

Stops its own gift shop. (779 Highway 101,

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Chandelier Drive Thru Tree: It’s not a prop-

CRESCENT CITY TO MENDOCINO

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

SONOMA COAST TO MARIN

Untamed beauty from sea to summit

From Mendocino to the Golden Gate

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Elk Stops B. Bryan Preserve: Animal

SONOMA COAST TO MARIN

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Point Arena Stops

SONOMA COAST TO MARIN

above the fog line, which will feel like

The B. Bryan Preserve, left, aims to restore populations of threatened

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

the gently lapping waters

SONOMA COAST TO MARIN

Point Arena Lighthouse, right, is

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Photos by Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

SONOMA COAST TO MARIN

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Cruise a slice of California’s Slow Coast

SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

Stops the beach. Ocean Beach and the

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

Moon both commercial and sport boat-

Bay ocean. It’s home to Mavericks, the

Stops time with other pursuits. The 855-foot-

SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

SAN FRANCISCO TO CARMEL

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Moss Landing Stops

Monterey good surf, evening sun-

Scenery and serenity

Clara Mokri / Special to The Chronicle

Pfeiffer Beach in Big Sur affords a