TROUBLESHOOTING

HALO HEAT COOK & HOLD OVENS

Alto-Shaam cook and hold ovens are available in several styles Manually
controlled ovens include the 1000-TH-I which is a single oven with two
independently controlled oven cavities. The TH-II series is available in a 500,
750, and 1000 single cavity oven, all of which can be stacked.

The 767-SK is a single cavity cook and hold oven with

smoking function available with manual or electronic controls.
Smokers are also available as a single oven with two
independently controlled oven cavities.

The TH-III electronic series is

available in a 500, 750, and 1000 single
cavity oven model, all of which can be
stacked. Electronic series ovens are
also available in a 1200 model single
oven with two independently
controlled oven cavities.

Depending on the model, ovens

are available in 125VAC, 208VAC,
230VAC, and 240VAC. All models use
a high temperature resistance wire
which is wrapped around the outside
of the cavity to provide a controlled,
uniform heat source without the use of
a circulating fan.

ELECTRONIC OVENS MANUAL OVENS COOK/HOLD SMOKERS

1.
TH-I and TH-II TROUBLESHOOTING

FIGURE 1 Since electrical codes vary by region, there is no

FIGURE 2
L1 G L2 cord or plug shipped with these ovens. The line
LOWER POSITION
voltage must always be tested before hooking-up the
97 98 99
power to the oven. If the line voltage, across L 1 and
L 2 on the terminal block is 220 - 240VAC (Figure 1),
25 24 23
the voltage switch which is located at the rear of the
oven behind an access panel (Figure 4) must be in
the lower position (Figure 2).
This switch position allows only two heating cables to be used for cooking
and one cable for holding. FOR 220 OR 240 VOLTS
INPUT ONLY
N OT E : T H E VO LTAG E S W I T C H I S
AVA I L A B L E O N 2 0 8 - 2 4 0 V
FIGURE 3 OV E N S O N LY. A L L 2 0 8 - 2 4 0 V FIGURE 5
L1 G L2 UNITS ARE SHIPPED IN THE
UPPER POSITION
2 4 0 VAC ( L OW E R ) P O S I T I O N .
97 98 99
If the line voltage across L 1 and L 2 of the
25 24 23 terminal block is 200 - 208VAC (Figure 3), the
voltage switch located at the rear of the oven, behind
the access panel (Figure 4), must be switched to the
upper position (Figure 5).
This switch position will allow all three heating cables to be used for FOR 200 OR 208 VOLTS
cooking and one cable for holding. INPUT ONLY

FIGURE 4

ACCESS
PANEL

2.
MOUNTING THE DRIP TRAY

The Drip Tray Holder is not mounted at the factory. The instructions for mounting are included in the
manual, however, normally these instructions are not followed. To mount the drip tray holder, remove the 3
screws under the door. Apply a thick bead of silicone sealant to the back of the holder and install to the
front of the oven. After tightening the 3 screws, use your finger to smooth the excess sealant into the seam
between the holder and the oven and wipe off the excess. Allow the sealant to dry before using (Figure 6).

FIGURE 6

DRIP TRAY WHEN MOUNTING DRIP TRAY,

SEAL DRIP TRAY HOLDER TO
UNIT WITH AN R.T.V. SEALANT

DRIP TRAY HOLDER

[A/S PN: SC-2425]

NOTE: IF THE DRIP TRAY HOLDER IN NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY, IT WILL ALLOW
GREASE AND WATER TO SATURATE THE INSULATION
AND CAUSE THE CABLE TO SHORT OUT.

3.
REPLACING TH-I AND TH-II DOOR GASKETS

To replace the door gasket, remove the door from the oven. Lay the door on a flat, protected surface to
protect against damage and remove the screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Remove the old
gasket and the plastic locating rivets from the outer door. Remove all old silicone sealant from the inner
door and the outer door . Use the old door gasket as a guide to cut the flat portion of the new gasket at 45-
degree angles, where the new gasket bends at the door corners. (Figure 7).

FIGURE 7

After the corners are cut, place the gasket on the outer door and attach using the plastic rivets. After
verifying the correct fit, apply a bead of silicone to both sides of the gasket and the vent tubes (Figure 8).
Install the inner door over the gasket flange (Figure 9).

NOTE: BE CERTAIN THE INNER DOOR PANEL IS INSTALLED PROPERLY. THE DOOR DRIP STRIP
MUST BE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR.

Install the screws and while

FIGURE 8 straightening the gasket. Snug-up the
screws while taking care not to strip-out
the holes (Figure 10).

SEAL VENT TUBES

AND BOTH TOP
AND BOTTOM
OF GASKET
FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

DOOR
DRIP STRIP AT
DOOR BOTTOM

4.
DOOR HANDLE OR HINGE REPLACEMENT
TH-I, TH-II, TH-III
To replace the door hinges, remove the hinge trim FIGURE 11
covers, by gently prying them out with a small
screwdriver and pulling off the cover (Figure 11).
Remove the 3 screws that hold the top hinge to the
oven front. Remove the 3 screws that hold the lower
hinge to the oven front. Lay the door on a flat surface
and remove the remaining 6 screws holding the two
hinges to the door. Install new hinges using the new
screws provided and applying semi-permanent
LOCTITE to the screw threads. After installing door
back on the oven, check the door gasket seal by placing
SCREWS
a dollar bill between the door gasket and the oven trim.
When the door is closed with the dollar bill in place,
there should be
FIGURE 12 pressure all around
the door gasket. If
the hinges need to be
adjusted, loosen the 3
screws holding the
hinge to the door and
push in or pull out
S until the proper door seal is obtained. Retighten the screws after applying
C LOCTITE to the threads.
R
E To replace the door handle, remove the 4 screws holding the handle to
W the door (Figure 12). Remove the 2 screws holding the door handle strike
S plate from face of the oven. Install the new strike plate after applying a
semi-permanent LOCTITE to the new screws. Install the new handle to the
door, again applying a semi-permanent LOCTITE to the new screws. The
door adjustment must be checked to ensure the door gasket seals tightly.
To check adjustment, place a dollar bill between the door gasket and the
oven trim and close the door. There should be pressure on the dollar when
attempting to pull the bill out. If the door handle needs to be adjusted,
loosen the 4 screws and push in or pull out until the proper adjustment is
achieved. Retighten the screws applying LOCTITE to the threads.

REPLACING/ADJUSTING THE COOK OR HOLD THERMOSTAT

The cook or hold thermostat should only be replaced if it is damaged or if it is more than 100 degrees out of
calibration. Before replacement of either thermostat, the thermostat capillary inside the oven must be checked to
verify that it is clean, installed properly, and not damaged. DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
To replace the thermostat, remove the screws holding the capillary blocks to the inside of the oven. Remove
the capillary blocks from the thermostat capillary bulb and pull the bulb through the access hole. Remove
the 2 screws holding the thermostat to the control panel and remove the wires from the thermostat noting
their position. Reinstall the new thermostat capillary into the access hole and reattach capillary blocks.
Secure the blocks to the oven cavity.

NOTE: FILL CAPILLARY ACCESS HOLES WITH SILICONE TO PREVENT MOISTURE FROM
INFILTRATING THE CONTROL AREA. ALL NEW THERMOSTATS MUST BE CALIBRATED
AFTER INSTALLATION.

To check calibration, install all oven side racks, shelves, and drip pans and place a digital probe sensor
on a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven using the hold thermostat set at 140 degrees
Fahrenheit (60°C) for a minimum of 1 hour. Allow the hold indicator light to cycle 3 times before making
any adjustments.
5.
If the thermostat needs to be adjusted, remove the thermostat knob and locate the
adjustment screw, in the center of the shaft (Figure 13).
FIGURE 13
To raise the temperature, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise while
holding the shaft stationary. To lower the temperature, turn the screw clockwise
while holding the shaft stationary. A minute turn appreciably raises or lowers the
temperature setting. Allow the oven to cycle 3 times. The hold temperature should RAISE LOWER
be 140 degrees Fahrenheit plus or minus 5 degrees (±2,8°C). After the calibration is
completed, you must seal the screw with fingernail polish.
ADJUSTMENT SCREW
NOTE: DO NOT USE LOCTITE OR SUPER GLUE ON THE THERMOSTAT SCREW.

Once the hold thermostat is calibrated, turn the cook thermostat to 250 degrees Fahrenheit (121°C). Set
the timer for 6 hours and preheat for a minimum of 1 hour. Allow the oven to cycle 3 times before
calibration. To raise the temperature, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise while holding the shaft
stationary. To lower the temperature, turn the screw clockwise while holding the shaft stationary. A minute
turn appreciably raises or lowers the temperature setting. Allow the oven to cycle 3 times. The cook
temperature should be 250 degrees Fahrenheit (121°Cº) plus or minus 10 degrees (±5,6°C). After the
calibration is completed, you must seal the screw with fingernail polish.

NOTE: DO NOT USE LOCTITE OR SUPER GLUE ON THE THERMOSTAT SCREW.

REPLACING THE TIMER

DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
To replace the timer, remove the screws holding the top cover assembly in place. Remove the timer knob and
remove the retaining nut while holding the timer to the front (Figure 14). Disconnect the wires from the
terminals; noting the positions of the wires (Figure 15). Remove timer and install new one.

FIGURE 14 NOTE: ON THE 125VAC TIMER, A

BUTT CONNECTOR MUST FIGURE 15
LOCATING BE CRIMPED TO ONE OF
PIN THE MOTOR LEADS.
RETAINER
NUT Reinstall wires to the correct
terminals. Install the timer into
the control panel while making
certain the locating pin is placed
into the alignment hole of the control panel. Tighten the retaining
nut and install the timer knob.

NOTE: THE TIMER KNOB CAN BE INSTALLED 180 DEGREES

OFF. MAKE SURE THE TIMER CLICKS OFF WHEN
TURNED TO THE OFF POSITION.
FIGURE 16
REPLACING THE FANS
The fans are very important to the operation of the oven
since they keep any condensation from building up in the
control area. DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE
PROCEEDING. To replace the fan motor, remove the top
assembly and locate the fan at the right rear of the oven
control bonnet (Figure 16). Cut the fan power wires and
remove nuts and nylon washers holding the fan to the
case. Remove the fan blade from the fan by loosening the
set screw on the fan blade-mounting collar. Install the fan
blade on the new fan motor. Reinstall the fan into the case.
Slide the nylon washers in place. Install the cap nuts and
tighten securely. Reconnect the fan power wires using butt
connectors. Test fan for proper operation.
6.
REPLACING THE CONTACTOR FIGURE 17
The common cause of contactor replacement is
moisture infiltrating the control area, usually
because the thermostat capillary access holes
have not been sealed. This causes the contactor
points to arc and chatter. The contactor can be
disassembled and the contacts cleaned with
emery cloth or a fine file if the contacts are not
severely charred. If the contactor is not closing
when the timer is turned ON check for line
voltage on the coil of the contactor (Figure 17).
If there is no voltage at the coil, suspect a bad
connection at the timer or a defective timer. If
there is line voltage the contactor needs to be
replaced. Loosen the 2 screws holding the
contactor in place and slide the contactor out.
CHECK FOR
Remove the wires from the contactor taking COIL VOLTAGE
care to note their position. Reinstall new
contactor and reattach the wires to the correct
positions. Test for proper operation.

1000-TH-I CONTROLS

FIGURE 18

LOWER OVEN
TERMINAL STRIP LOWER OVEN CONTACTOR

VOLTAGE SWITCH

INLET POWER
TERMINAL STRIP

UPPER OVEN CONTACTOR

UPPER OVEN
TERMINAL STRIP

FAN

7.
 FIGURE 19
HOLDING INDICATOR ON/OFF SWITCH ON/OFF SWITCH COOKING INDICATOR
LOWER OVEN LOWER OVEN UPPER OVEN UPPER OVEN
COOKING INDICATOR POWER ON LIGHT HOLDING INDICATOR
LOWER OVEN UPPER OVEN UPPER OVEN

HOLD THERMOSTAT COOKING TIMER POWER ON LIGHT COOKING TIMER COOK THERMOSTAT
UPPER OVEN LOWER OVEN LOWER OVEN UPPER OVEN UPPER OVEN

HEATING CABLE REPLACEMENT

The primary cause of heating cable short-outs is due to moisture infiltrating the insulation wrapped around
the heating cable resulting in disintegration of the cable insulation. When this condition occurs, the cable
shorts to ground and the oven over-cooks. This condition can usually be verified by turning the thermostats
and timer OFF while leaving the power switch ON . Cup a hand over the cook/hold indicator lights and look
for a dull glow or flickering.

1000-TH-I HEATING CABLE REPLACEMENT

FIGURE 20
To check for a shorted cable, remove the control top and remove the
wires from the terminal strips. Using a multimeter, check each cable wrap
to ground. Any reading to ground indicates a shorted cable which needs to
be replaced. To test for an open in the cable wrap, refer to the wiring
diagram in the
operation and care
FIGURE 21 manual for cable
connections. A
functioning cable
should have
approximately 40-45
OHMS resistance. To REMOVE
access the cables for ALL THE SCREWS
the upper
compartment, the left
and right side panels
REMOVE must be removed. To
access the cables for
4 SCREWS
the lower
compartment, the left
and right side panels
along with the bottom
must be removed
(Figure 20). To
remove the screws
from the bottom,
gently lay the oven on
two protected 2x4's with the back of the oven to the
floor. Remove the four 1/4-20 screws (Figure 21). The
casters do not need to be removed.
8.
 When the sides and bottom are removed, the insulation wrap and
insulation sides are now accessible (Figure 22). Before removing the FIGURE 22
insulation sides or insulation wraps, check all connections for any loose or
burned-off connectors. If the insulation appears wet, dark, or greasy,
assume the cables are saturated and probably shorted to ground. Remove
the insulation sides and wrap by cutting the retaining straps for the
compartment in question and further inspect the cable.

NOTE: IF THE CABLE IS SHORTED OR BROKEN, DO NOT ATTEMPT

TO SPLICE THE PIECES TOGETHER. THE CABLE MUST BE
REPLACED OR ELECTRICAL SHOCK AND SERIOUS INJURY
COULD OCCUR TO THE OPERATOR.
The cables are wrapped on the
FIGURE 23 oven with the use of cable hangers.
The center of the wire is held in CUT STRAPS
place by a high temperature foil tape
CHECK CONNECTIONS

(Figure 23). There are fabric

insulation corners to protect the
cable where it wraps around the
bottom of the oven. Before replacing
the cable, use a marking pen to mark
each cable hanger on which the cable
wraps around (Figure 24). Marking
HIGH TEMPERATURE TAPE

cable position makes it much easier

to rewrap the cabinet.
When rewrapping the cabinet,
pull the cable snug but not tight.
Start at the CB mount. Slide the
insulating sleeve over the wire and
place in the cable retainer. Crimp FIGURE 24
the retainer with an anvil crimper,
just tight enough to hold the cable,
INSULATION CORNERS

while allowing a 2-inch (50,8mm)

loop in the wire (Figure 25). Strip
1/2" (12,7mm) of
insulation from the FIGURE 25
cable. Bend the exposed
wire in a loop and insert
CB
into the high tempera- MOUNT
ture ring terminal and
crimp with a “D” type
crimper (Figure 26). Assemble the studs, shoulder, and cup
bushings and install in the CB mount. Start cabling the first
wrap. When you get to the next CB mount, allow 1-inch
(25,4mm) past the mount before cutting the cable. Assemble the
stud, shoulder, and cup bushing and install in the mount.
Precede with the next two wraps the same as above. CUP AND
SHOULDER
BUSHINGS
NOTE: WHEN REWRAPPING A CABINET, ALL 3 CABLES
AND INSULATION SHOULD BE REPLACED.
CABLE RETAINERS
Before reassembling the unit, test each of the leads to ground
to ensure there are no shorts. Use a piece of the old cable
METALLIC or
to hold the insulation sides and bottom in place. FIGURE 26 NON-METALLIC
Reassemble the cabinet in the reverse order of assembly. INSULATED WIRE SHIELDING

NOTE: HEAT THE CABINET TO 300 DEGREES FOR AT

LEAST 2 HOURS TO BURN OFF THE
PROCESSING OILS FROM THE CABLE.
RING CONNECTOR CABLE CLAMP
SMOKE FROM THE CABINET IS NORMAL.
9.
500, 750 AND 1000-TH-II HEATING CABLE REPLACEMENT
To check for a shorted cable, remove the control top and remove the wires from the terminal strips. Use a
multimeter to check each cable wrap to ground. Any reading to ground indicates a shorted cable which
needs to be replaced. To test for an open in the cable wrap, refer to the wiring diagram in the operation and
care manual for cable connections. A functioning cable should have approximately 40-45 OHMS resistance.

NOTE: IF THE CABLE IS SHORTED OR BROKEN, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SPLICE THE PIECES
TOGETHER. THE CABLE MUST BE REPLACED OR ELECTRICAL SHOCK AND SERIOUS
INJURY COULD OCCUR TO THE OPERATOR.

500, 750 AND 1000-TH-II CONTROLS

FIGURE 27

INLET POWER
TERMINAL STRIP

VOLTAGE SWITCH FANS

TERMINAL
ACCESS COVERS

CONTACTOR

10.
 FIGURE 28
HOLDING COOKING
POWER SWITCH COOKING TIMER
INDICATOR LIGHT INDICATOR LIGHT

POWER ON
HOLD THERMOSTAT COOK THERMOSTAT
INDICATOR LIGHT

To replace the heating cable on the TH-II

FIGURE 29 series, remove the screws holding the control
top to the bonnet. Open the door and remove
the screws holding the thermostat capillary
blocks to the cavity. Slide blocks off of the
capillaries (Figure 29).
Remove capillary guard and loosen silicone in
the access holes. Gently push the capillaries
through the access hole and pull into the control
CAPILLARY compartment (Figure 30).
BLOCKS

FIGURE 30

FIGURE 31

FIGURE 32

Remove the 3 red wires and the 3 blue wires that supply
the heating cables, from the terminal blocks. Remove the 2
screws holding the terminal access covers in place and pull
the wires through the bushing (Figure 31). Stuff the wires
under the insulation (Figure 32).

11.
 FIGURE 33
REMOVE RETAINING NUTS

REMOVE SCREWS

Remove the thermostat and timer knobs and remove the retaining nuts for the timer and power switch.
Remove the 6 screws holding the control panel to the unit and remove the control panel (Figure 33).

NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE THERMOSTATS OR TIMER.

FIGURE 34 Remove the two 1/4-20 screws located next

to the fans at the rear of the control assembly
(Figure 34). Remove the three screws holding
the drip pan holder on the front of the
cabinet, below the door. Lay the cabinet on
it’s back, taking care to protect the cabinet
from damage and remove the two 1/4-20
REMOVE TWO SCREWS screws from the bottom (Figure 35).

FIGURE 35

REMOVE THREE SCREWS

HOLDING THE DRIP PAN HOLDER

Stand the cabinet upright and with someone

holding the outer casing, open the door, reach in, and
pull the inner tube from the outer casing (Figure 36).

FIGURE 36

REMOVE TWO
BOTTOM SCREWS

12.
 Once the tube is pulled out, the insulation sides and insulation
can be removed. To remove the insulation sides, remove the 3 FIGURE 37
screws from the top, open, and lift the tube out of the way
(Figure 37). If the insulation appears wet, dark, or greasy, assume

REMOVE THREE SCREWS

that the cables are saturated and probably shorted to ground. The
insulation can be removed and discarded.

The cables are wrapped

FIGURE 38 on the oven by the use of
cable hangers. The center
of the wire is held in
place by a high
temperature foil tape
(Figure 38). There are
fabric insulation corners
to protect the cable where
it wraps around the
bottom of the oven.
Before replacing the cable, use a FIGURE 39
marking pen to mark each cable
hanger on which the cable wraps
around (Figure 39). Marking
cable position makes it much
easier to rewrap the cabinet.

When rewrapping the cabinet, pull the cable snug, not

FIGURE 40
tight. Start at the CB mount; slide the insulating sleeve over
the wire and place in the cable retainer. Crimp the retainer
CB with an anvil crimper, just tight enough to hold the cable, while
CUP AND SHOULDER BUSHINGS

MOUNT
allowing a 2” loop in the wire (Figure 40). Strip 1/2-inch
(12,7mm)of insulation from the cable. Bend the exposed wire in
a loop and insert into the high temperature ring terminal and
crimp with a "D" type crimper (Figure 41). Assemble the studs,
shoulder and cup bushings and install in the CB mount. Start
cabling the first wrap. When you get to the next CB mount,
allow 1-inch (25,4mm) past the mount and cut the cable.
Assemble the stud, shoulder and cup bushing and install in the
mount. Precede with the next 2 wraps the same as above.

NOTE: WHEN REWRAPPING A CABINET, ALL 3 CABLES

CABLE RETAINERS AND THE INSULATION SHOULD BE REPLACED.

Before reassembling the unit, test each of the leads

METALLIC or
FIGURE
FIGURE 2641 NON-METALLIC to ground to ensure there are no shorts. Reassemble the
INSULATED WIRE SHIELDING cabinet in the reverse order of assembly.

NOTE: HEAT THE CABINET TO 300 DEGREES FOR

AT LEAST 2 HOURS TO BURN OFF THE
RING CONNECTOR
PROCESSING OILS FROM THE CABLE.
CABLE CLAMP
SMOKE FROM THE CABINET IS NORMAL.

13.
 TH-III ELECTRONIC COOK AND HOLD OVEN

The electronic cook and hold uses a microprocessor to evenly and accurately maintain temperatures
inside the oven cavity. It allows the user to cook by time or internal temperature by use of a product probe.
It includes menu keys that can be preset and allows the user to attach a printer.

500, 750, 767, 1000 and 1200-TH-III CONTROL

CONTROL
FIGURE 42 COOLING FAN

BONNET PRINTER
TRANSFORMER
RETAINING CLIP SERIAL PORT
ELECTRONIC FUSE WIRE 1 AMP TERMINAL BONNET
CONTROL ASSEMBLY FILTER BLOCK RETAINING CLIP

SOLID STATE CIRCUIT

RELAY BREAKER

BEEPER

OPTIONAL SMOKER
HEAT OR 20 AMP POWER HIGH
VARISTOR
SINK LIGHT SOLID STATE RELAY FILTER INLET LIMIT

CONTROL PANEL START

FIGURE 43 LOCK INDICATOR KEY
ON/OFF COOK TIME PROBE HOLD OPTIONAL PREHEAT UP/DOWN
POWER KEY KEY KEY KEY KEY SMOKER OR INDICATOR ARROW KEYS
LIGHT KEY

CYCLE
INDICATOR

MENU PRESET KEYS

MENU PRESET
CANCEL KEY

14.
REPLACING THE DOOR GASKET

To replace the door gasket on the TH-III, pull the old gasket out of the FIGURE 44
door (Figure 44). Clean any grease, dirt, or debris from the gasket-mounting
surface and from the unit frame. Install new gasket by placing the corners in
first and working the gasket towards the middle. Close door and check for
proper fit. Adjust door hinges and door latch for proper seal.

TH-III HEATING CABLE REPLACEMENT

Before replacing the heating cable,

FIGURE 45 remove the bonnet by removing the 3 screws
in the front, 2 screws on each side, and 6
screws from the back. Lift the bonnet up and
slide the left edge under the bonnet retaining
clips. Remove the right-side side panel by
lifting straight up and sliding it out. Locate
REMOVE 4 the heating cable connectors and check for
CASTERS AND loose connections or burned-off wires.
2 SCREWS Remove all power wires to the heating cable
FIGURE 46
and check each cable to ground. Any reading
to ground indicates a shorted cable which
must be replaced. Follow the same procedure
for the left side and then check for continuity
through the heating cables. There should be
approximately 40 to 45 OHMS resistance for
each cable wrap. Each cable wrap will draw REMOVE
FIGURE 47
approximately 4 Amps of current. 4 SCREWS

Since the side panels have already been

removed for testing, heating cable
replacement can be started by laying the unit
on its back, taking care to protect the oven
from damage. Remove the 4 casters and the 2
mounting screws (Figure 45). Cut the
silicone sealant from around the base. Locate and remove the 4 screws
under the caster pads (Figure 46).

Remove the base for access to the insulation sides and wrap. Cut the
strap holding the insulation sides in place and remove the insulation
(Figure 47). The cables are wrapped on the oven with the use of cable
hangers. The center of the wire is held in place by a high temperature foil
tape. There are fabric insulation corners to protect the cable where it wraps
around the bottom of the oven. Before
replacing the cable, using a marker to
mark each cable wrapped cable hanger FIGURE 48
(Figure 48). This makes it easier to rewrap
the cable on the cabinet.

15.
 When rewrapping the cabinet, pull the cable snug, not
FIGURE 49 tight. Start at the CB mount. Slide the insulating sleeve over
the wire and place in the cable retainer. Crimp the retainer
CB with an anvil crimper, just tight enough to hold the cable and
CUP AND SHOULDER BUSHINGS

MOUNT allowing a 2" (50.8mm) loop in the wire (Figure 49). Strip 1/2"
(12,7mm) of insulation from the cable. Bend the exposed wire
in a loop and insert into the high temperature ring terminal and
crimp with a “D” type crimper (Figure 50). Assemble the studs
along with the shoulder and cup bushings and install in the CB
mount. Start cabling the first wrap. When you get to the next
CB mount, allow 1” (25,4mm) past the mount and then cut the
cable. Assemble the stud with the shoulder and cup bushing
and install in the mount. Precede with the next 2 wraps the
same as above.
METALLIC or
FIGURE
FIGURE 2650 NON-METALLIC
CABLE RETAINERS
INSULATED WIRE SHIELDING

NOTE: WHEN REWRAPPING A CABINET, ALL 3 CABLES

AND INSULATION SHOULD BE REPLACED.
RING CONNECTOR CABLE CLAMP
Before reassembling the unit, test each of the leads to
ground to ensure there are no shorts. Reassemble the
cabinet in the reverse order of assembly.

NOTE: HEAT THE CABINET TO 300 DEGREES FOR AT LEAST 2 HOURS TO BURN OFF THE
PROCESSING OILS FROM THE CABLE. SMOKE FROM THE CABINET IS NORMAL

1200-TH-III AMBIENT CHAMBER FAN REPLACEMENT

The ambient chamber fan is powered through a fan thermostat that closes whenever the cabinet
temperature reaches 130 degrees. Using a wiring diagram, verify there is 208/240VAC going to the fan and
thermostat. If there is, remove the 6 screws holding the ambient chamber grille in place. Locate the power
wires and using a multimeter, test for power across the fan power leads. If there is line voltage present, the
fan is defective and needs to be replaced. The fan can be replaced without removing the ambient fan chamber.

If there is no line voltage present, the fan thermostat is defective and needs to be replaced. To replace fan
thermostat, the ambient fan chamber must be removed. DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE UNIT.
Remove the bonnet along with the right and left casing sides. Remove the 8 screws holding the ambient fan
grille. Cut the 2 power leads to the fan and remove the 10 screws holding the ambient chamber to the oven
(Figure 51). Working from the side, gently remove the ambient fan chamber from the rear of the unit. Locate
the fan thermostat approximately 6” from the right side and 5” from the rear of the unit, under the insulation.
Release the fan thermostat from the hold down clip and verify that there are no burned off connectors.
Replace the fan thermostat and ensure that the insulation is replaced in the original manner. Reinstall the
ambient fan, by gently sliding it in from the rear of the unit, taking care to engage the chamber into the front
support. Reconnect the fan power leads, reinstall screws and grille, reconnect power and test operation.

FIGURE 51

CUT FAN
POWER LEADS

REMOVE 10 SCREWS

16.
REPLACING THE PRODUCT PROBE OR AIR SENSOR

The product probe and air sensor are located FIGURE 52

inside the cavity, towards the rear (Figure 52). Both
can be tested by immersing the probe in an ice water
bath and using a multimeter set to the OHMS scale to PRODUCT
PROBE
test across the 2 leads. The resistance reading should
be 100 OHMS at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C).

The product probe can be changed from inside the

cabinet. To change the air sensor(s), the right side AIR
SENSOR
casing must be removed (Figure 53).

NOTE: IF THERE ARE BULLET CONNECTORS ON THE AIR SENSOR OR PRODUCT PROBE, THEY
MUST BE REMOVED AND THE WIRES SOLDERED TOGETHER AND PROTECTED WITH
HEAT SHRINK TUBING. FAILURE TO REMOVE THE BULLET CONNECTORS WILL RESULT
IN ERROR CODES.

FIGURE 53

BULLET
CONNECTORS

PRODUCT
PROBE

FAN
THERMOSTAT

CABLE
HANGER

AIR
SENSOR

17.
 SERVICE SETUP PROCEDURES IF OVEN POWERS UP

1) Determine correct voltage and unit setup;

A) Verify voltage at outlet or junction box.
Make certain the voltage is checked between L1 and L2 and from each leg to ground. Each leg to
ground should be within 5% of each other.
B) Verify unit setup by starting from the OFF mode. Hold the cook key and the down arrow key until
you hear a brief beep and the oven will display the setup information. The following items will be
displayed:
Option codes – will indicate the model for which the oven is programmed.
Line voltage – will show what voltage for which the unit is programmed.
Software phase – shows if the program is beta or production.
Software version – indicates the software version being operated.
Printer and lock status – shows the printer and lock status.
2) Setting the correct voltage; 3838 Password
A) With the oven in the OFF mode, push and hold the up and down arrow key at the same time. After 4
seconds the display will show "0- - -." Using the up arrow key, toggle up until the display shows a 3
and then press start. Using the down arrow key, toggle down until the display shows an 8 and press
the start button. Using the up arrow key, toggle up until the display shows a 3 and press the start
button. Using the down arrow key, toggle down until the display shows an 8 and press start. The
display will show the set voltage. Use the up or down arrow keys to select the proper voltage as
measured at the outlet. Press the start button. The voltage is now set for the supplied voltage.
3) Setting the correct option code; 2828 Password
A) With the oven in the OFF mode, push and hold the up and down arrow key at the same time. After 4
seconds the display will show "0- - -." Use the up arrow key to toggle up until the display shows a 2
and press the start key. Using the down arrow key, toggle down until the display shows an 8 and hit
the start key. Using the up arrow key, toggle up until the display shows a 2 and hit the start key.
Using the down arrow key, toggle down until the display shows an 8 and hit the start key. The
display will then show the option for which the oven is configured. By using the up or down arrow
key you can select the proper option code from the chart below that corresponds to the oven.
4) Initializing the control; 1818 Password
A) If the control appears to be operating correctly but there is no 3.5 – 5 VDC at the solid-state relay
across 4- and 3+, attempt to reinitialize the control before replacing it. Perform this procedure the
same as you would to set the voltage or option code. Instead enter 1818 and then hit start. The
display will go blank. Proceed to program the correct voltage and option code and test for power. If
there is still no power to the solid-state relay, check to verify the wiring is correct. If everything
checks out, the control may be defective.

OPTION MODEL MAX TEMP

CODE NUMBER F=C
18 500 TH-III 325=163
19 500 TH-III 250=121
22 CH-50 TH-III 325=163
34 750 TH-III 325=163
35 750 TH-III 250=121
38 CH-75 TH-III 325=163
58 767SK TH-III 325=163
59 767SK TH-III 250=121
66 1000 TH-III 325=163
67 000 TH-III 250=121
70 CH-100 TH-III 325=163
82 1200 TH-III Upper 325=163
83 1200 TH-III Upper 250=121
86 CH-120 TH-III Upper 325=163
98 1200 TH-III Lower 325=163
99 1200 TH-III Lower 250=121
102 CH-120 TH-III Lower 325=163

18.
 SERVICING THE INTERNAL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS

1) If there is no power or the display will not light:

A) Make sure there is power available at the outlet or junction box.
B) Make certain the circuit breaker switch on the back of the unit is turned ON .
C) Make sure the power cord is not open. Check continuity with a multimeter.
2) If the above has been verified, remove the screws from the front, both sides, and the back of the control
bonnet. Lift up to remove. Facing the front of the cabinet, rest the bonnet on the left side of the control
wiring assembly and slide the edge of the bonnet under the 2 retaining clips.
A) Test for power at the load side of the circuit breaker. If OK, proceed to B. If there is no power,
replace the defective circuit breaker (Figure 54).

FIGURE 54
SUPPLY LINE
VOLTAGE
LOAD SIDE

SUPPLY
LINE
VOLTAGE

B) Test for power at the load side of the 2 filters. If OK proceed to C. If there is no power, replace the
defective filter (Figure 55).

FIGURE 55

SUPPLY LINE
VOLTAGE
LOAD SIDE

19.
 C) Check for power at the secondary side of the transformer. The voltage reading should be 20VAC at
the points indicated on the picture. If the correct voltage is not present, the transformer is defective
(Figure 56).
FIGURE 56

SUPPLY
LINE
VOLTAGE

SECONDARY
VOLTAGE
20V
3A
FUSED
WIRE
ASSY.

D) Check the 2-inline fuse assemblies. Using a multimeter, remove one end of the fuse assembly and
check for continuity. If the fuse indicates it is open, replace the bad fuse assembly (Figure 56). If all
the above tests check out, a defective control is probably the cause.

3) If there is a display and the unit is

FIGURE 57
calling for heat but the cabinet is
not warming or there is an E30
error code on the display,
continue with the following
testing.
A) Check the high limit located at
the rear of the bonnet, next to
the cord inlet and see if the
high limit is tripped. If it is
tripped, reset by either
pressing the red button IN or
by flicking the green tab UP .
After resetting, the condition
causing the high limit to trip
must be corrected. If the high
limit will not reset, the limit is
WITH THE CONTROL IN defective. Since the high limit
THE OFF POSITION,
THERE SHOULD BE
is a safety device, do not
LINE VOLTAGE ACROSS jump-out or remove it from
1 AND 2 AND, the circuit.
OBSERVING POLARITY,
NO DC VOLTAGE
B) Locate the cable connections in
ACROSS 3 AND 4 either the front left corner or
the right rear corner. Using a
20.
 multimeter, test each cable to
FIGURE 58
ground. Any resistance
WITH THE CONTROL POWERED reading to ground will
UP AND IN THE PREHEAT MODE, indicate a shorted or open
THERE SHOULD BE 3.5 TO 5VDC cable to ground and the cable
ACROSS TRIGGER TERMINALS 3
AND 4 (OBSERVING POLARITY) must be replaced. If there is
AND NO AC VOLTAGE ACROSS no reading, proceed to C.
CLOSURE TERMINALS 1 AND 2 C) Check the solid-state relay
mounted on the metal heat
sink. With the control in the
OFF position, use a multimeter
set to the AC volt scale and
check across the closure
terminals #1 and #2. There
should be line voltage (200 –
240VAC) present (Figure 57).
With the multimeter set on the
DC volt scale, check across the
trigger terminals #3 and #4,
taking care to observe polarity.
There should be less than 1
volt DC current present. If
not, the solid-state relay is
defective (Figure 58).
D) On the same solid state relay, with the unit in the preheat mode use a multimeter set to the DC volt
scale. Check across the trigger terminal #3 and #4 taking care to observe polarity. There should be a
reading of between 3.5 and 5 volt DC present. With a multimeter set to the AC volt scale, check across
the closure terminal #1and #2. There should be less than 1 volt AC current present. If not, the solid-
state relay is defective.
SERVICE PROCEDURES FOR ERROR CODES
4) The following are the service procedures for troubleshooting error codes that may appear on the display.

E10 Oven fault under temperature A) Frozen food product placed in oven.
B) Air temperature sensor defective. To test air sensor, place sensor in ice water bath
and use an ohmmeter set on the ohm scale. The reading should be approximately
100 ohms resistance. If the sensor tests out and there are bullet connectors on the
leads, cut off the bullet connectors, strip back the insulation1/2-inch (12,7mm), and
slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire. Twist the wires together and
solder. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the soldered connection and heat to shrink.
C) Voltage option not correctly set up.

E11 Oven fault over temperature A) Heating cable shorted to ground.

B) Air temperature sensor defective.
C) Failed solid state relay.

E21 Food probe fault over temperature A) Check food probe by placing it in an ice water bath and use an ohmmeter set on
the ohm scale. The reading should be approximately 100 ohm resistance. If the
product probe test out and there are bullet connectors on the leads, cut the bullet
connectors off, strip back the insulation 1/2-inch (12,7mm), and slide a piece of
heat shrink tubing over the wire. Twist and solder the wires together. Slide the
heat shrink tubing over the soldered connection and heat to shrink.

E30 Slow heating rate A) Oven door open.

B) Door seal defective or door out of adjustment.
C) Oven preheat was skipped.
D) Line voltage incorrect, voltage option on control not programmed properly.
E) Defective air sensor or product probe.
F) Defective solid-state relay.
G) Open heating cables or bad wire connections.

E31 Slow cooling rate A) Failed solid state relay.

B) Defective air temperature sensor.
C) Shorted or grounded heating cable.

After all repairs are finished, verify that the oven functions are operating properly and the cooling fan in the bonnet is turning on at
130 degrees F (54 degrees C) and all grills are free of grease and dust accumulation.
21.
SERVICE NOTES

22.
 COOK/HOLD/SERVE SYSTEMS
PHONE: (262)251-3800 (800)558-8744 U . S . A ./ CANADA
● Ken Kreuscher, Service Manager ● EXTENSION 6425
● Mike Hlavenka, Service Support Tech ● EXTENSION 8501
SERVICE DEPARTMENT FAX: (262)251-1565 (800)329-8744 U . S . A .
W164 N9221 Water Street ● P.O. Box 450 ● Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin 53052-0450 ● U.S.A.

PRINTED IN U.S.A. www.alto-shaam.com #8321 • 6/01