Preparation

UNIT 2 PREPARATION
Structure
2.1 Introduction
Objectives
2.2 Checking In
2.3 Stitch Making
2.4 Stamping
2.5 Punching or Perforating
2.6 Gimping
2.7 Blocking
2.8 Splitting
2.9 Fusing
2.10 Summary
2.11 Key Words

2.1 INTRODUCTION
This is the initial part of production, where all upper cut components are prepared for
closing operations. This makes upper closing easy and more convenient. Depending upon
the space productivity and availability the preparation section may be found in:
• Clicking/Cutting room
• Independent section
• In closing room.
The cut component comes from the clicking room in batches or lots, normally in
multiples of 10 or 12 pairs. Along with the lot, there is usually a work ticket, which
contains details related to the particular batch is to be made. For example, for the closing
room, it would state – Article No, size, lot No, colour and type of thread, size and type of
eyelets or elastics, etc. Some times buyer’s name is also specified in the detail given. The
preparation department has its own advantages and disadvantages to be with the cutting
room, independent section and with upper closing department.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• do initial preparation of cut components before fitting and stitching,
• understand various marking methods with different patterns available,
• use of pricker and related accessories,
• check the work ticket, and
• know the space productivity.

2.2 CHECKING IN
The first operation is usually to check the cut components against the work tickets to
ensure the availability of all components before feeding them in to the conveyer. This
makes the consecutive operations convenient and eliminates any kind of discrepancies
during various operations. The purpose of this operation is to help in continuous feeding
and ensure the loading in time.
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2.3 STITCH MARKING
In this operation, marks are put on the upper material to enable the operatives to
position/fit the components together accurately before stitching. This enables the fitting
operations easy and convenient during upper making. Stitch marking ensures for the
position of any kind of fancy stitching to be done on upper and also helps in identifying
the positions of eyelets, buckles, ornaments, punching, etc. Following are the different
marking methods available in the footwear industry.
• Manual making by silver refill or white pencil
• Prick Marking
• Pricking Awl
• Stitch-marking Machines
SAQ 1
(a) Explain the need of preparation from your own experience.
(b) Describe various operation involved in preparation.
(c) Describe checking and marking operation in your own words.
(d) In how many ways marking operation can be performed?

2.4 STAMPING
When a person buys a pair of shoes, how do they know what size or fitting of the shoes
is?
The size might be stamped or moulded on the sole, it may say on the insock stuck at the
heel of the shoe – but almost certainly the size will be stamped somewhere on the upper.
The usual places are either the inside of the quarters or on the backside of the tongue.
Whichever is chosen, it must be as per specification given, yet not distract from the
appearance of the upper.

The stamping details could include: Size, Fitting, Article No, Shoe Number, Work Ticket
Number, Factory code, Last and type of material used.
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2.5 PUNCHING OR PERFORATING
Designs are often punched out of the upper components for decoration, for example on
brogue shoes. The size and shape of the holes can change, with designs varying
accordingly. Further if these punches are not properly reinforced, problem may also
arises during lasting pulls against the distortion and breaks of the holes. Punching can be
done in following ways.
• By Hand
• By Perforating Machine
• By Clicking Press
SAQ 2
(a) Explain stamping operation in your own words.
(b) Describe the need of stamping and punching on cut components.
(c) Explain various methods of perforation.

2.6 GIMPING
Gimping is the process of decorating the component’s edge by cutting zigzag and scallop
decoration on the edges of the upper parts of the shoes. The 20th century uses the term
gimping for zigzags on the brogue and other decorative shoes. Gimping, trimming and
simultaneously decorating the edges of leather pieces are part of the various edge
treatments used in upper closing. The shoemaker does this operation mostly with a
gimping machine in which steel tools with various patterns and designs can be fitted.
This is the serration of the raw edge of a component. It gives an edge treatment often
used with punching, to make the distinctive edge finish to brogues.

Figure 2.1 : Gimping Scissor

2.7 BLOCKING
Blocking is the process of shaping the vamp component on last during making long or
high knee boots. In case of long knee type boots, the vamps are usually cut from one
piece of flat material and difficult to last without blocking treatment. The vamp is
required to mould according to the shape of the last and takes the front shape of an
“instep and higher area above an instep” after this operation. This eases the lasting
operation and helps in perfect fitting in to the last. This also enhances the appearance of
the shoe.
Note : During this operation follow the good working habits and safety norms.
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2.8 SPLITTING
The process of dividing leather cut component horizontally into two or more layers is
known as splitting. There are different types of splitting machines available in footwear
industry as per the requirements. This process is done to obtained desired thickness of the
upper components. Leather being a natural material is never has same thickness all over
the hide or skin. That is why the splitting process came into exist.

SAQ 3
(a) What is gimping, in how many ways we can perform this operation?
(b) Describe blocking and its need during shoe making.
(c) Describe splitting and its need during shoe making.

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2.9 FUSING
The word fusing is used for fixing a sugar coated fabric to a particular material for
reinforcing and strengthen purpose by fusing machine. Different kinds of material are
used in shoe making and leather is rated best to make a comfortable and hygienic shoe.
Leather being a natural material has fibrous structure, which can have loose flesh, soft
feel and thin substance. To make a good presentable shoe out of this type of material, we
need to have a special treatment called reinforcing or interlining attaching. This makes
the upper component durable during production and provides better shape retention to the
finished shoe. In order to reinforce the concerned material, different kinds of reinforce
material can be used according to their purpose, uses and benefits. Some of the material
is as follows :
(a) Thin leather pieces
(b) Fabric
(c) Sugar coated material
(d) Pressure sensitive material (heat base)
(e) Solvent base
(f) Self adhesive nylon or cotton tapes

Self adhesive tapes are ready made rolls and used during upper making. These are soft in
nature and available in various dimensions and colours. They should be used according
to the operation concerns.
Fusing is the process of reinforcing the weak and thin material from flesh side in order to
strengthen it against shape retention and lasting pulls. It also enhances the appearance of
the shoe and bears the pressure during walking. Reinforcement can be fixed with the
required material in following ways:
• Attaching with the help of adhesive
• Pressing under the heat
• Fixing of self adhesive tapes
SAQ 4
(a) Describe word fusing and its need.

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2.10 SUMMARY
In this unit, we have covered various operations involved between cutting and upper
making. These operations can be performed with :
• Cutting department
• Independent preparation department
• Upper closing department
The components are cut, checked according to the plan sheet and proceeds for the
preparation. The preparation involves, checking, splitting (if necessary), edge colour,
stamping, fusing, skiving, punching, perforating, gimping, blocking and embossing.
These operations are carried out according to the specification given and help in
minimizing the handling time and increase the efficiency of upper closing department.

2.11 KEY WORDS

Gimping : Decoration cuts over raw edges of component.
Splitting Machine : Dividing of leather into two layers by special
called splitting machine.
Blocking : Vamp shaping by blocking m/c according to last’s
instep area.
Fusing : Fixing of sugar coated material under set
temperature.
Reinforcement : Providing strength.
Pricker : Sharp pointed tool.
Awl : Sharp pointed tool.
Poke : To perforate.
Pleating : Accumulation of excess area of material over
convex curves.
Templates : Prototype pattern.
Foil : Material available in golden or silver colour used
to decor the stamping.
Fur : Material available having inner cotton layer used
as lining.
Brogue : Shoe style – having perforation and gimped edges
for decoration purpose.
PP Board : Polly propylene board used as base for punching
operation.

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