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3-in-1

Drill
press
upgrade

© 2013 August Home Publishing Co.


storage
solutions
3-in-1
Drill
Press
Upgrade
Get storage,
mobility, and
accuracy from
these three
useful add-ons.
Making a drill press more useful
is one of the bigger shop chal-
lenges. And when you have to
move the drill press, it can be
like wrestling a monster. Another
problem is the small table on most
drill presses isn’t really designed
for woodworking.
A solution for each of these
problems is shown at right. First,
a cabinet with full-extension
drawers keeps all those accesso-
ries at hand. A mobile base makes
moving the drill press a breeze.
And best of all, the large table
makes the drill press ideal for
woodworking tasks.

1 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Exploded View Details
Turn to page 7 to OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 201⁄2"D x 18"W x 53⁄8"H (BASE)
build the 213⁄4"D x 223⁄4"W x 28"H (CABINET)
drill press
auxiliary table 12"D x 30"W x 4"H (TABLE & FENCE)

routed recesses
keep drill bits
from rolling
onto the floor

cubbies offer wide worksurface


plenty of provides convenient
storage for access to often-used
larger items accessories

large drawers on
full-extension slides
make drawer contents
easily accessible
large rollers
make moving
the drill press
safe and easy

mobile base
maintains a low
center of gravity Base of storage unit
and incorporates fits over mobile base
levelers to keep
drill press stable

} Nesting Bases. The storage


cabinet wraps around the drill press
column and hides the mobile base.

FRONT
VIEW STORAGE CABINET

STORAGE
CABINET
BASE DRILL PRESS
MOBILE BASE

DRILL PRESS
STAND

2 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
mobile
Base
Adding a mobile base to a drill
press can make it easier to relocate
the tool or simply clean under-
neath. This mobile base has several
worthwhile features besides being
easy to build.
First, the low center of gravity
keeps the drill press stable and
less likely to tip. The large roll-
ers make it easy to move around
the shop, though you’ll still want
to keep the top-heavy drill press
under control as you move it.
Finally, the levelers lock the drill { Stability. Moving a top-heavy drill press can be a chore. This
press in place for stability. mobile base not only makes the task easier, but once it's in place, the
Simple Construction. The levelers lock it in position and add stability.
mobile base starts with a plywood
panel. Two thick cleats attached Base. You’ll start by sizing the Cleats. I cut the cleats to size
to the upper face help bear the width of the plywood base panel and drilled stopped pilot holes for
weight of the drill press. The to fit your drill press, adding an the lag screws that serve as wheel
wheels are fastened to the cleats. extra 21⁄2" to account for the cleats axles. At this point, you can attach
Wheel blocking adds stiffness and (Figure 1). Drill the series of coun- the two cleats to the base with
strength plus provides convenient tersunk holes on the bottom face. glue and screws.
mounting points for the levelers These holes are used to attach the Wheel Blocking. The two
and their knobs. cleats you’ll work on next. pieces of wheel blocking come
next. They’re shown in Figure
1
FIGURE
2 and look like the fenders on
NOTE: ENLARGE
a. FRONT VIEW an automobile. I cut the rough
AXLE BORE IN CLEAT blanks to size and then drilled the
WHEELS TO #/8"-Dia.
3"-DIA.
(1!/4" x 3" - 20!/2") NOTE:
B GLUE AND
WHEEL !/2"-RAD. SCREW holes for the levelers. A hole saw
CLEAT THE CLEAT makes it easy to rough out the
IN PLACE
1!/2 cutout around the wheels. The
!/4
band saw makes quick work of
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
WOODSCREW BASE completing the shape.
After a little sanding, apply glue
#/8" x 2"
LAG SCREW
and clamp the wheel blocking to
A
w/ WASHERS
BASE the base and cleats. You’ll want
(15!/2" x 20!/2" - #/4" Ply.)
to make sure the top edges are
flush with the cleats as you apply
2
FIGURE
clamping pressure.
Final Details. The last few
!/4"-20
C
details involve rounding over
!/2"
STAR KNOB
a. SIDE VIEW the top corners and then install-
ROUNDOVER 5!/4 ing the hardware. To round over
4
3!/4 the corners, I turned to the router
%/16"-DIA. !/2"-RAD. table. Flip the base upside down
HOLE
1#/4"-RAD. to rout the 1⁄2" roundover illus-
trated in Figure 2a.
C Figures 1 and 2 show you
WHEEL BLOCKING 2#/4
(1!/4" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")
how the wheels and levelers are
1 installed. After applying a clear
!/4"-20 T-NUT
!/4"-20 x 4!/2"
THREADED ROD
finish, you can attach the base to
!/4"-20 LEVELER #/4"-RAD. your drill press. I used a pair of lag
screws to do this.

3 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
7!/8 b. TOP
storage cabinet 5
FIGURE
3 WHEEL VIEW

Base
8!/2

D SIDE
BASE TOP STEEL
PIN
2!/2"-RAD. (19!/4" x 21" - #/4" Ply.)
NOTE: SEE !/4
PHOTO PAGE 2 !/2" !/2 !/4
ROUNDOVER

a. FRONT VIEW !/2"-RAD.


3"-DIA.
SKIRT

WHEEL
WHEEL
BLOCKING FRONT
BASE
WHEEL
#/4
TOP E
BLOCKING SIDE
!/2 (#/4" x 5#/4" - 21")
!/4" x 2"
STEEL PIN
c. SIDE VIEW
SKIRT BASE TOP #/4
WHEEL SIDE !/2
BLOCKING
STEEL
PIN 1#/4"-RAD.
H 3!/2
SKIRT G F WHEEL
SIDE (!/2" x 3#/4" - 20!/2") WHEEL BLOCKING FRONT
(1" x 3#/4" - 20!/2") (#/4" x 5#/4" - 19#/4") 2#/4

1
Building the storage cabinet for Base Top. Begin by cutting the skirts to final size
your drill press starts with the top to size. The U-shaped notch and glue them to the FRONT

base. You’ll find the construction that wraps around the column wheel blocking (Fig-
pretty similar to the mobile base can be cut with a jig saw and ure 3). After the glue dries, head to
on the previous page. It’s basically sanded smooth. the router table to round over the
a box with wheels that fits like a Side Assemblies. In order to edges with a 1⁄2" radius, as shown
glove over the mobile base. drill the holes for the steel axles eas- in Figures 3 and 3a.
The details of the construc- ily and more accurately, I worked Glue this sub-assembly to the
tion are shown in Figure 3 above. on the side assemblies next. This sides then drill the axle holes.
A three-sided box is built with a involves cutting the sides to size The last piece to cut is the front.
base top, two sides, and a front. and rabbeting the top edge for It’s rabbeted along the top and
The wheels and blocking are sand- attaching the base. ends to join with the top of the
wiched between outer skirts and To make the wheel blocking, I base and sides.
the sides of the base. The wheels used a hole saw to make the cut- After assembling the base, you
are attached with steel pins that out that surrounds the wheels. can install the wheels with steel
serve as axles. With that done, you can cut the pins epoxied in place.

Materials & Hardware


MOBILE BASE Q Med. False Front (1) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 57⁄ • (4) 3” Wheels
4 8 16
A Base (1) 151⁄ 2x 201⁄
- Ply.2
3⁄
4 R Large Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 71⁄ - 11
2 4 • (4) 1⁄4" x 2" Lag Screws
B Cleat (2) 11⁄4 x 3 - 201⁄2 S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 1⁄2 x 71⁄4 - 163⁄4 • (10) 1⁄4" Washers
C Wheel Blocking (2) 11⁄4 x 33⁄4 - 201⁄2 T Large False Front (1) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 77⁄
4 8 8 • (6) 1⁄4"-20 Star Knobs
U Drawer Bottoms (4) 10 ⁄2 x 163⁄4 - 1⁄4 Hdbd.
1 • (4) 1⁄4"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers
STORAGE CABINET V Tops/Bottoms (4) 73⁄8 x 8 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 1⁄4"-20 x 41⁄2" Threaded Rod
D Base Top (1) 191⁄4 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. W Sides (4) 73⁄8 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 1⁄4"-20 T-Nuts
E Sides (2) 3⁄ x 53⁄ - 21 X Backs (2) 8 x 201⁄2 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (10) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
4 4
F Front (1) 3⁄4 x 53⁄4 x 193⁄4 Y Shelves (4) 71⁄8 x 8 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 3" Wheels
G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 33⁄4 - 201⁄2 Z Shelf Rails (4) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 7
8 4 • (4) 1⁄4" x 21⁄4" Steel Rod
H Skirts (2) 1⁄ x 33⁄ - 201⁄ AA Cabinet Top (1) 201⁄4 x 213⁄4 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Screws
2 4 2
I Top/Bottom (2) 123⁄4 x 191⁄4 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (16) #6 x 3⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
J Sides (2) 123⁄4 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. TABLE & FENCE • (22) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
K Back (1) 191⁄4 x 201⁄2 - 3⁄4 Ply. BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) Sash Pulls
L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 1⁄ x 21⁄ - 11 CC Top (2) 12 x 131⁄16 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (2) 1⁄4”-20 x 31⁄4" Flange Bolts
2 4
M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 1⁄2 x 21⁄4 - 163⁄4 DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (4) 5⁄16"-18 T-Nuts
N Sm. False Fronts (2) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 215⁄ EE Fence (1) 21⁄2 x 30 - 11⁄2 Ply. • (4) 5⁄16" Washers
4 8 16
O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 47⁄ - 11 FF Fence Face (1) 2 ⁄2 x 30 - 1⁄4 Hdbd.
1 • (4) 5⁄16"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)
2 8
P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 1⁄2 x 47⁄8 - 163⁄4

4 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
BACK SIDE
VIEW
DRILL
adding 4
FIGURE PRESS
POST

Storage
COLUMN !/4

BASE

I
TOP/
K BOTTOM
The storage cabinet features a (12#/4" x 19!/4") J
BACK
(19!/4" x 20!/2") SIDE
handy bank of drawers. How- (12#/4" x 21")
ever, the depth of the drawers is
limited by the drill press column. NOTE: ATTACH CASE TO
BASE WITH #8 x 1!/4" Fh
So that the space on either side of WOODSCREWS
J
the column isn’t wasted, I added
a pair of cubbies to provide use- #8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
ful, additional storage.
I
Drawer Case. Construction
starts with the drawer case. Fig-
ure 4 shows how it goes together. NOTE: ALL
PARTS MADE
I started by cutting all five parts FROM #/4"
PLYWOOD
to size. The back edges of the top
and bottom are rabbeted to join
with the back panel. Three edges a. BACK SIDE
VIEW
SIDE FRONT
VIEW
b.
!/2
of the side panels are rabbeted, as
DRILL
well. You can see what I mean in PRESS
POST
Figures 4a and 4b. COLUMN !/4
The assembly of the case is BASE BASE
pretty straightforward. A little glue
and clamps get the job done. Once
the glue dries, you can attach the
case to the base. The drawers are assembled with grooves for the drawer bottoms
Drawers. As you can see in strong tongue and dado joinery. So before moving on.
Figure 5, there are four drawers once all the sides, fronts and backs Next, bury a dado blade in an
5
FIGURE
to build in three different heights. are cut to size, you can set up an auxiliary rip fence to cut the rab-
The joinery is all the same and assembly line to cut all the parts. bets on the ends of the drawer
the part sizes are identical It all starts with dadoes in the fronts and backs. These rabbets
except for the width. drawer sides. After switching to form the tongues that fit into the
SMALL a 1⁄4" dado blade, you can cut the dadoes in the drawer sides.
DRAWER SIDE L
(!/2" x 2!/4"- 11") L SMALL DRAWER After cutting the bottoms to size
N
FALSE FRONT and gluing up all the drawers, you
(18!/8" x 2!%/16" - #/4" Ply.) SIDE can mount them on full-exten-
N !/4
!/4 VIEW
sion slides, as shown in Figure 5.
MEDIUM DRAWER
2!/4 O FALSE FRONT
a.
(18!/8" x 5&/16" - #/4" Ply.) !/4
M
Q SIDE FRONT
!/2 VIEW
LARGE DRAWER
4&/8 FRONT/BACK
(!/2" x 7!/4" - 16#/4")
P S
O R TOP
MEDIUM LARGEBASE
DRAWER VIEW
DRAWER S FALSE FRONT
(18!/8" x 7&/8" - #/4" Ply.)
SIDE
(!/2" x 4&/8" - 11") T
R U !/2
LARGE DRAWER DRAWER BOTTOM
SIDE (10!/2" x 16#/4" - !/4" Hdbd.)
(!/2" x 7!/4" - 11") !/4

10" FULL-EXTENSION !/2


DRAWER SLIDE
!/8
NOTE: DRAWER FRONTS, BACKS, AND SIDES
MADE FROM !/2"-THICK HARDWOOD.
DRAWER FALSE FRONTS MADE FROM #/4" PLYWOOD.
!/16 b.
DRAWER BOTTOMS MADE FROM !/4" HARDBOARD.
#6 x #/4" Fh
WOODSCREW
5 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
6
FIGURE
TOP/BOTTOM
(7#/8" x 8")
V
Then cut and fit the false fronts and
install the pulls.
Storage Cubbies. The storage W #8 x 1!/4" Fh
cubbies are next. They fit behind SIDE WOODSCREW
(7#/8" x 21")
ASSEMBLED
the case flush with the sides. CUBBY
The construction of the cubbies X W
is similar to the drawer case. The BACK
(8" x 20!/2")
details are illustrated in Figure 6. NOTE: ALL PARTS
EXCEPT SHELF
The only difference in the construc- Z RAILS MADE FROM
#/4" PLYWOOD
tion is a dado cut in the sides and
back to house a fixed shelf. CL
After cutting the shelf to size,
you can assemble the case. One
more detail to add is the pair of Y
shelf rails. These are simply glued SHELF
(7!/8" x 8")
in place before you attach the cub-
bies to the cabinet.
Finally, a Top. The last piece
V
CUBBIE
SIDE
b.
of the puzzle is the large cabinet
top you see in Figure 7. Like the Z SIDE DRAWER
base, it wraps around the drill SHELF RAIL VIEW !/4 CASE
(#/8" x 1!/4" - 7") BACK
press column and provides addi-
tional worksurface. Two recesses !/4
on either side keep drill bits and right box. I made a template with a simple mat- #8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW BASE
other small items from rolling off an opening sized for the recess. ter of removing
onto the floor. To rout the recess, I used a bowl the remaining
As with the base of the cabinet, and tray bit in a router with a large waste with several passes of the
you’ll cut the top to size and cut auxiliary base. The bit creates router across the recess.
out the U-shaped notch with a jig rounded inside corners while leav- Finish Up. Now you’re ready
saw. After a little sanding, you can ing a flat bottom. to attach the top with screws from
round over all the edges and get You’ll want to rout in a clock- inside the drawer cabinet and
set up to rout the recesses. wise direction with the bearing of cubbies, as shown in Figure 7.
Routing the Recesses. To cre- the bit in contact with the inside Apply a clear finish before rolling
ate the recesses on the top, I used edge of the template. This creates the cabinet into place and putting
a technique detailed in the lower the outline of the recess. Then it’s it to good use.

7
ROUTER
CABINET TOP
Router Template
RECESS (SEE
(20!/4" x 21#/4" - #/4" Ply.)
TINT BOX AT
RIGHT) AA
You can make a template like the
one shown below by assembling
the four sides with pocket hole join- #/8
CENTER TOP ery. This technique allows you to size
OVER CABINET
!/2"-
RAD.
the opening perfectly for the task.
Then, rout out the waste.
SIDE VIEW a.
1

#/4"
Ply. 1!/4
1!/4
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
WOODSCREW 5!/8
TEMPLATE
b. TOP VIEW 6!/2

CL
a. FRONT VIEW
5!/2
BOWL AND
TRAY BIT
CABINET
TOP
1!/4

ATTACH TEMPLATE
!/4 WASTE TO TOP WITH
2!/2"-RAD. DOUBLE-SIDED
TAPE

6 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
drill press
Table & Fence
An auxiliary table and an adjust- offers plenty of support when 3⁄ "-thick plywood on the bottom.
4
able fence are the two best working with long pieces. And a top layer of 1⁄4" hardboard cre-
improvements you can make to a The table also lays the ground- ates a smooth, durable worksurface.
“bare bones” drill press. I thought work for an adjustable fence. To There’s also another advantage
the combo shown above was a allow positioning of the fence to this double-layered assembly.
perfect complement to the mobile quickly and accurately, it slides The top layer has a removable
base and storage cabinet. The table along two T-shaped slots in the insert, as shown in Figure 8. When
shown here has been in use for a table. And a pair of flange bolts this insert gets chewed up with use,
lot of years in my shop and is one and knobs lock it in place. simply slide it in or out to expose a
of my favorites. fresh drilling surface. Or replace it
Let’s start with the table. It’s Table with a new insert.
much larger than the metal drill The table is made up of two lay- Base. I started on the table by
press table it’s attached to. So it ers. For rigidity, there’s a layer of making the plywood base (Figure
8). To form the wide portion of

8 the T-slots, you’ll need to cut two


FIGURE
INSERT THIRD: GLUE dadoes in the base, as in Figure
(12" x 5" - !/4" Hdbd.) TOP PIECES
TO BASE 8a. Later, each of these dadoes will
DD
accept the head of a flange bolt that
CC
TABLE TOP guides the fence in the T-slot.
NOTE: LOCATION OF (12" x 13!/16" - !/4" Hdbd.) Install T-Nuts. The next step is
T-NUTS VARIES WITH to install T-nuts that are used to
DRILL PRESS
attach the base to the metal drill
press table. To locate the holes
for these T-nuts, start by setting
FOURTH: the base on the drill press table.
CUT T-SLOTS
Then, after marking the location
SECOND: of the holes from underneath the
COUNTERBORE T-NUTS
FLUSH WITH BASE

a. FRONT b. FRONT 15° BEVEL


VIEW%/16 %/16
!/8 !/8 VIEW
TOP TOP INSERT

1!!/16 1!!/16%/8 BASE BASE


BB %/8
%/16"- 18 T-NUT
TABLE BASE FIRST:
(12" x 30" - #/4" Ply.) CUT DADOES NOTE: T-SLOT IN TOP IS COUNTERBORED
CENTERED OVER DADO IN BASE HOLE FITS T-NUT

7 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
SECOND: GLUE THE THIRD: ADD THE
9
FIGURE
table, drill counterbored through TWO PIECES TOGETHER HARDBOARD FACE
holes and install the T-nuts.
30
Top. Now you can concentrate FIRST: CUT DADOES
IN BOTH HALVES
on the top of the table. It consists OF FENCE
CL
of two top pieces and the insert, as
illustrated in Figure 8 on the pre- FOURTH: CUT
EE 2!/4"-Dia.
A SEMICIRCULAR
vious page and Figure 10 below. NOTCH IN THE TOP EDGE

Note: It’s best to cut oversize top 2!/2


pieces and trim them flush later. 1!/2 1
The insert is captured in a !/8
dovetail-shaped opening in the top
of the table. This opening is formed FF
by cutting a bevel on the inside EE FENCE FACE
(2!/2" x 30" - !/4" Hdbd.)
edge of the top pieces, as shown FENCE TOP VIEW
(2!/2" x 30" - 1!/2" Ply.)
in Figure 8b on the previous page.
To prevent the insert from binding, about this fence is you can adjust is formed by first cutting a pair
the beveled edges of the top pieces it without having to coax first one of shallow dadoes in each piece,
need to be parallel to each other. A end and then the other. The reason then assembling these so the
simple solution is to use a spacer has to do with a narrow slot in each dadoes align and form a slot for
between them when gluing on the end of the fence. These slots form the bolt. The margin photo shows
pair of top pieces. openings for the flange bolts that how to do this using a waxed key.
After trimming the edges flush, guide the fence. After this assembly dries, you can
you can complete the second half Why not just drill holes for add the hardboard face.
of the T-slots. This is just a matter the bolts? After all, it would be Notch. Before installing the
of cutting dadoes in the top pieces quicker. The only problem is if fence, I cut a semicircular notch in
(Figure 8a, page 7). you don’t move both ends of the the top edge. The details are shown
Now all that’s left is to cut an fence the same amount when in Figure 9. This notch provides
insert to fit the opening in the making an adjustment, the bolts clearance for the chuck when using
table. To do this, you’ll need to would jam in the holes and cause shorter drill bits. I used a Forst-
bevel both edges of the insert. the fence to bind. But the slots ner bit to drill the notch and then
While you’re at it, it’s a good idea provide clearance for the bolts. sanded it smooth.
to make several extra inserts so So even if both ends of the fence Attach Fence. Now all that’s
you’ll have a few spares. aren’t perfectly aligned, it still left is to attach the fence to the { Glueup Tip.
slides nice and smooth. table. After slipping the flange A waxed “key”
FENCE Fence Pieces. To make the fence, bolts in place, set the fence down ensures proper
After attaching the drill press table start by cutting the two plywood over them. Tightening knobs on alignment when
with bolts, the next step is to add fence pieces, as illustrated in Fig- the ends of the bolts locks the gluing up the
the fence. The thing I like best ure 9. The slot for the flange bolts fence in place. fence pieces.

10 !/4"-20
THREADED
!/8" CHAMFER a.
PROVIDES
KNOB DUST RELIEF

!/4" FENCE
WASHER

TOP

!/4"-20 x 3 !/4"
FLANGE BOLT
BASE

FRONT VIEW

b. SIDE VIEW

%/16"-18 BASE
HEX BOLT
W/WASHER

8 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
3-in-1
Drill Press Upgrade
Materials List
MOBILE BASE Q Med. False Front (1) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 57⁄ • (4) 3” Wheels
4 8 16
A Base (1) 151⁄ 2x 201⁄
- Ply.2
3⁄
4 R Large Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 71⁄ - 11
2 4 • (4) 1⁄4" x 2" Lag Screws
B Cleat (2) 11⁄4 x 3 - 201⁄2 S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 1⁄2 x 71⁄4 - 163⁄4 • (10) 1⁄4" Washers
C Wheel Blocking (2) 11⁄4 x 33⁄4 - 201⁄2 T Large False Front (1) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 77⁄
4 8 8 • (6) 1⁄4"-20 Star Knobs
U Drawer Bottoms (4) 101⁄2 x 163⁄4 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (4) 1⁄4"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers
STORAGE CABINET V Tops/Bottoms (4) 73⁄8 x 8 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 1⁄4"-20 x 41⁄2" Threaded Rod
D Base Top (1) 191⁄4 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. W Sides (4) 73⁄8 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 1⁄4"-20 T-Nuts
E Sides (2) 3⁄ x 53⁄ - 21 X Backs (2) 8 x 201⁄2 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (10) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
4 4
F Front (1) 3⁄ x 53⁄ x 193⁄ Y Shelves (4) 71⁄8 x 8 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) 3" Wheels
4 4 4
G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 33⁄4 - 201⁄2 Z Shelf Rails (4) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 7
8 4 • (4) 1⁄4" x 21⁄4" Steel Rod
H Skirts (2) 1⁄ x 33⁄ - 201⁄ AA Cabinet Top (1) 20 ⁄4 x 213⁄4 - 3⁄4 Ply.
1 • (4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Screws
2 4 2
I Top/Bottom (2) 123⁄4 x 191⁄4 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (16) #6 x 3⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
J Sides (2) 123⁄4 x 21 - 3⁄4 Ply. TABLE & FENCE • (22) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
K Back (1) 191⁄4 x 201⁄2 - 3⁄4 Ply. BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 3⁄4 Ply. • (4) Sash Pulls
L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 1⁄ x 21⁄ - 11 CC Top (2) 12 x 131⁄16 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (2) 1⁄4”-20 x 31⁄4" Flange Bolts
2 4
M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 1⁄2 x 21⁄4 - 163⁄4 DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (4) 5⁄16"-18 T-Nuts
N Sm. False Fronts (2) 3⁄ x 181⁄ - 215⁄ EE Fence (1) 21⁄2 x 30 - 11⁄2 Ply. • (4) 5⁄16" Washers
4 8 16
O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 47⁄ - 11 FF Fence Face (1) 21⁄2 x 30 - 1⁄4 Hdbd. • (4) 5⁄16"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)
2 8
P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 1⁄2 x 47⁄8 - 163⁄4

Cutting Diagram
!/2" x 7!/2" - 96" HARDWOOD
L L L L M M M

O O P P H
M

Z Z
H Z Z
R R S S

#/4" x 9!/2" - 96" HARDWOOD

F Q E E
T

N N

1!/4" x 5!/2" - 96" HARDWOOD


B B C C

1" x 5!/2" - 48" HARDWOOD

G G

9 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Cutting Diagram cont.

48" x 96" - #/4" PLYWOOD

A
K D
X

BB
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36" x 36" - #/4" PLYWOOD 48" x 48" - !/4" HARDBOARD

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10 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
MAIL Project Sources
ORDER
SOURCES For the 3-in-1 drill press upgrade, you
can go online to McMaster-Carr to pur-
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527 chase the 1"-dia. levelers (6103K65)
and the 3"-dia. wheels (2781T72). You
McMaster-Carr can find the 10" full extension slides
630-833-0300 (61440) at Rockler.
mcmaster.com

Rockler
800-279-4441
rockler.com

11 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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